Category Archives: BT7 From Disassembly to Paint

Chapter 13 – Cleaning and Trial Fitting

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March 22, 2003

Rear Seats 

The rear seat pans were very rusty and pitted to some degree, but given that they are completely covered by upholstery we decided to reuse them. The bottom exposed side of the seats was painted with a rubberized undercoating paint. 

Rear Seats 1

Rear Seats 3

May 16, 2003

Canadian Delivery! 

Martin Jansen delivered the healey from his shop in Canada on the back of his pickup truck! Big day!

May 16 Arrival Day from Martin 1

Rough Body 2

Rough Body

Rough Body 3

The frame and superstructure looked great. The fit of the wings will have to be improved upon. Door fit is pretty good, but will also need additional work. New edges were put on the rear shroud and rough repairs to the front shroud lower panel were made as well as around the rear shroud taillight area. Seeing the interior panels without rust is hard to believe, but they sure look good now! One disappointment is that mounting holes for a number of things are not located on new panels installed by Martin. Seat rails, exhaust mountings, insulation panels and etc will need to be aligned and drilled.

Firewall 3

Firewall 2

Boot 1

July 15, 2003

Maple Hill Restorations 

After consulting with Jeremy Turner from Maple Hill Restorations we have decided to completely assemble the car while in primer to be ensured that EVERYTHING fits properly. This will prolong the project, and will probably lead to some short term frustration, but should also minimize problems with assembly once body work and painting is complete.

My first step is to determine proper fastener sizes and replace all original hardware with stainless steel, with the exception of higher load locations such as shock absorber and other suspension bolts. Those will be replaced with new grade 8 zinc plated hardware. Then we installed all of the rubber grommets in the firewall, footwell and other locations.

The Scientist at Work

Chased Threads and rubber grommets

Installed pedal box

Steering Bracket and Brace

Boot Grommets – The grommet for the battery cable and other bulkhead grommets were installed in the boot. The anti-theft battery switch and bracket were also installed.

Boot grommets

Battery box and switch

Bump Box

Boot Tire Buffer

Insulation Panels – Some of the mounting holes for the heat insulation panels on the firewall and footwell were also not drilled. We located the proper locations, drilled the holes and mounted the panels without difficulty.

Insulation 1

The Oil Pressure Line – The line was located and installed although new clips will be ordered.

Oil Line

The Dip Switch and Parcel Tray – These components were also located and installed. Note the original water bottle.

Parcel Tray & Bottle

Installed dimmer switch

Radiator Brackets – The brackets were cleaned and painted and were installed on the crossmember, and the painted air intake flange.

Radiator Mount 2

 

July 23, 2003

Hardware Reassembly

Door Staps – The original door straps (catches) were cleaned, re-zinced and installed on the door pillars.

Door Strap 1

Door Strap 2

Bonnet Hinges – The bonnet hinges were cleaned, primed and new stainless hardware was installed, and then mounted to the car.

Bonnet Hinge 1

Bonnet Hinge 2

March 22, 2003

More Cleaning 

Bonnet Latch Hardware – Disassembled and cleaned the bonnet latch assembly and the bonnet opening rod assembly for Jeremy Turner to media blast and paint.

Bonnet Rod Spring

Bonnet Rod Bracket grommet

Bonnet Latch A

Bonnet Latch B

Bonnet Latch C

Also cleaned the bonnet rod clip, the catch bracket, two safety latches, the brake reservoir bracket and two shroud brackets.

 

 

 

 

Chapter 12 – Disassembly

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February 2, 2003

Front Suspension Components. 

Removed the steering arm by loosening two 11/16” nuts with tab washer connector flattened. Note that the steering arm angles toward the dustshield – not the motor.

Stub Axle Carrier, King Pin, Caliper, Dust Shield

Stub Axle Carrier, King pin, Dust Shield

Brake Caliper – Removed by first unscrewing the brake pipe union. Remove two nuts securing the brake hose support bracket. Remove bracket. Unscrew two caliper retaining bolts.

Removed two rubber bushings from the upper trunnion.

Swivel Pin – Removed split pin at the swivel pin nut and tap swivel pin out with hammer.

Loosen cotter on the swivel pin and retract. Loosen two large nuts (bushings) on “A” arms and remove. Pull out pin and remove “A” arms.

Grease Cup – Pulled out grease cup from hub – fabricated tool with long manifold nut and 5/16” x 3” bolt and the slide hammer.

Straighten and retract split pin on castle nut through the hole in the splines on the hub. Not easy to do!!

Remove castle nut. Brake rotor and hub then lift off of the dust shield and spindle.

From the swivel axle spindle removed the dust cover spring and upper and lower dust covers. Separated the rotor from the hub. 4 bolts  – 2 long ones hold the brake caliper and bracket. 2 short bolts hold the plate to the swivel axle.

Removed rubber “U” seal from around the dust shield opening for the swivel axle.

March 12, 2003

Steering Idler and Steering Box

The steering idler and steering box are next for cleanup. I will have these  rebuilt by someone who knows what they are doing. Probably Bruce Phillips at Healey Surgeons.

Steering Idler 2

Steering Idler Clean

Steering idler 3

Steering Box 6

Steering Box 5

Steering Box 7

Distributor

The distributor was also in good shape and easy to clean. We may still switch to an electronic unit, but cleaned up the Lucas just in case.

Distributor 7

Distributor 8

Distributor 9

Distributor Clean

Boot Latch and Lock Assembly

The boot latch and lock assembly was in reasonable shape but the chrome will have to be replaced as it is cracked rather badly.

Boot Lock

Boot Handle & Lock

Master and Slave Cylinders

The clutch master and slave cylinder will both be replaced with new items.

Clutch Slave Cylinder

Clutch Master Cylinder with aluminum spacers

Master Cylinder Brake

Headlamp Dip Switch

 The switch didn’t look too good, but it worked fine and would clean up.

Dipper Switch

Dipper switch 4

Brake and Clutch Pedals 

Curiously, one of the previous owners of the car added spacers on the brake and clutch pedals to minimize reach. We won’t use the spacers.

Clutch Pedal 1

Clutch Pedal 2

Clutch Pedal 3

Brake Pedal 4

Brake Pedal 5

Windscreen Wiper Motor

The next item to tackle was the windscreen wiper motor. It was disassembled, cleaned, lubricated, and painted. I tested the motor and it seemed to work fine.

Wiper Motor 3

Wiper Motor 4

Wiper Motor 6

Wiper Motor 7

 

Chapter 11 – Disassembly

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The Battery Cable –  from engine to boot. Eight to nine clips attached with screws to frame.

October 20, 2002

Shipping to Jule Enterprises

Martin Jansen – from Jule Enterprises located just outside of Toronto picked up the car for the trip back to Canada for frame replacement and restoration. John, Scott and I had visited his shop in Canada earlier in the summer to “check it out.” We were pleased with what we found and I arranged for Martin to pick up 4422  for restoration work.

Martin Jansen Picking Up the Healey 10-20-2002

Martin Jansen Picking up the Healey 10-20-2002 2

Martin Jansen Picking up the Healey 10-20-2002 3

Martin returned to Canada with the primed doors and four new aluminum wings to be fitted before bringing the BT7 back to Harrisonburg. In addition to fitting the old tub to the new Jule frame, he will media blast the body, epoxy primer the car, add new aluminum flanges to the rear shroud, and do rough repairs to shroud damage on the front and left rear. We anticipate a return date around the first of February. Lots of parts to clean between now and then.

November 9, 2002

Bonnet Hinges – After a very busy work month, this weekend provided some time to return to parts clean-up and restoration. Cleaned a primed both bonnet hinges and added stainless hardware.

Cleaned and primed Bonnet Hinges

Door Check Strap Assembly – Both door strap catches were cleaned. The Moment-Anderson Restoration Book states that these straps have a zinc plated finish rather than paint. The straps will need to be refinished at a later date and new washers added.

Cleaned Door Catches

November 17, 2002

Rear Axle

Rear axle disassembly –  Removed five lug nuts and the rear splined hub. Then loosen two Phillips head screws securing the rear brake drum and remove the drum.

Brake Drum Hub Nuts

Rear Axle Half Shaft

Removed the brake shoe retaining springs and slipped off the lower shoe. Disconnected the handbrake tension spring to release pressure and slipped off the upper shoe.

Removed the shoe adjuster by loosening two 9/16” nuts and knocked out. Note shape of pistons. Remove axle by loosening one 3/8” flat head phillips screw. Note paper gasket. Pull out axle half shaft. The left and right shafts are marked with an engraved “R” or “L,” because they need to be replaced to the original locations.

Rear Hubs – Removed the octagonal nut retaining the hub. One of the nuts loosens clockwise and one counterclockwise. Remove the O Ring, flat washer and retaining band. Remove the back plate by loosening 4 nuts and bolts. The bolt heads face the outside of the car. I ordered a special socket from BCS for this purpose.

left rear hub – nut removed

Shock Absorbers – Removed the rear shock absorbers by loosening 11/16” nut and kncked pin through the bushing and out of the bracket holding the shock.

Rear Differential – Removed rear differential from axle by loosening 12 nuts and lock washers. Top center bolt also retains the brake line clamp.

November 29, 2002

Rear Hubs

Left Rear Hub – Used a slide hammer to loosen and remove the hub from the axle.

Hub removal-too Slide Hammer

After the hub is removed the bearings can be knocked out with an appropriate tool.  The “made in England lettering is to the outside of the wheel. The paper gasket, and rubber “O” ring are removed as well. The hub also includes a rubber seal on the inside of the hub. I could not remove it, will have to learn the secret!  Later learned the secret is a screwdriver. The left hub nut loosens “clockwise” and the right “counterclockwise.”

Rear bearings

Brake Cylinders – Pulled off the retaining circlip from the rubber boot on the wheel cylinder. Remove the rubber boot cover and the rubber gasket from around the cylinder assembly. Pry apart the sliding plates that lock against one another. The lockplate with the tabs “up” goes against the backplate and the one with the open slots on the top. After removing the lower plate slide out the handbrake lever. Then take off the inside lockplate and remove the cylinder.

brake cylinder retainer clips

Brake cylinder retainer clips 2

handbrake lever

Shoe Adjuster – by loosening two nuts, note the position of the adjuster piston. Remove backplate by loosening the four retaining nuts and bolts. Finally, clean up the rear axle.

rear axle clean up

The handbrake lever assembly –  was removed, disassembled and cleaned. Note the replacement of the cloth/rubber “O” ring under the large nut, and felt washers at the connecting pins. The bracket itself can be removed by loosening two 5/16” – 24 x 3/4” bolts and nuts. The mounting clip for the return spring is located 2 1/4” from the post.

handbrake bracket 1

Handbrake Bracket 2

Handbrake spring location

Handbrake Bracket 4

January 25, 2003

This report is the first of my second year of working on the restoration of 4422! Lots of work remains in the disassembly and clean up stage before reassembly can begin. But progress has been made!

Rear Seat Back  

Unfortunately, I had installed speakers in the panel when in college. So I will need to buy a new squab or at least the plywood flat pieces before recovering.

Rear Seat Back Panel 1

Rear Seat Back Panel Clips

Rear Seat Back Panel 2

Clutch and Brake Pedal Bracket (Pedal box) -The box and parts were in very good shape. It was now time to disassemble and clean.

Pedal Box Assembly

Pedal Box Assembly 2

Striker pin assembly – The bonnet catch was a bit rusty, but restorable.

Bonnet Catch Striker Assembly 1

Bonnet Catch Striker Assembly 3

Bonnet Catch Striker Assembly 2

The Bonnet Latch Support Bracket – the mechanism was rusty also, but again, clean up made the parts usable.

Bonnet Latch 3

Bonnet Latch 4

Bonnet Latch Lever

Bonnet Latch Spring & Rubber Tube

The Throttle Linkage – is also reusable after cleaning, but we will probably replace with new hardware or a contemporary cable system.

Throttle Linkage 5

Throttle Linkage 3A

The accelerator pedal – the pedal and bushing and springs looked great. A little clean up and paint and it will be like new.

Throttle Linkage 2

Accelerator Pedal

Chapter 10 – Disassembly

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August 17, 2002

Brake and Clutch Master Cylinders –  Loosened lines from cylinders. The brake line from the master cylinder to the 4 way junction has 3 clips and fasteners to the union facing the master cylinder (left side of the car). The clutch line also has three clips: 1 by the solenoid, and 2 on the firewall (high). 

Loosen the 1/2” bolts securing the clutch master cylinder. Pull the cotter pin on the master cylinder shaft to the pedal. Remove the master cylinder. Same procedure for the brake master cylinder. There are aluminum spacers on the top of each master cylinder between the cylinder and the body.

Master Cylinders

Brake Pipe Junction 1

Pedal Box Connections

Pedal Box Bolts

Pedal Box (Pedal Lever Bracket) 

Loosen two 1/2” bolts to remove pedal box mechanism. The box is painted black. Unit will then drop out.

Pedal Box 1

Pedal Box 2

Headlamp Dip Switch Wiring – Pulled the wiring through the pedal box with rubber grommet.

Dipper switch wiring

Dip Switch Wiring

Bulkhead Fresh Air Flange – Removed three phillips head screws securing the fresh air hose flange. Removed flange.

Air Tube Mounting

Brake Lines

The Brake Lines – fittings were loosened at the 4 way brake union to left front wheel – 2 clips at front cross bar to the front bottom union facing front of car at the junction.  Removed right front brake line from junction to right wheel – top union on junction facing front of the car.

LF Brake Lines

Front Center Brake Lines

Brake Junction

Brake Junction connections

Brake Junction Fitting

Brake Junction 3

Brake 4 Way Union & Pressure Switch – Removed the Union by loosening one 7/16” bolt to frame. Two wires must be disconnected. Green goes to terminal closest to the engine. The green with pink stripe wire goes to the terminal closest to the frame. One clip holds wiring harness extension to the brake junction located just above the junction mounting post.

Brake Pressure Switch Wiring

Master Cylinder Sealing Plate (blanking) –  Removed the Plate on the right side of the car. Four Phillips head sheet metal screws. The plate had tar paper on back to seal it. Four clip nuts are used to hold the screws.

Right Sealing Plate

Right Sealing Plate 3

Right Sealing Plate 2

Starter Solenoid. 

Disconnected the wiring for the starter solenoid. The terminal closest to the engine is for the high tension line from the battery. The terminal closest to the body is or the cable to the starter and the brown ignition wire. The white wire with the red stripe goes to the terminal on top.

Starter Solenoid Wiring

Starter Solenoid 2

Starter Solenoid connections 2 & Clutch Pipe Clip

Blanking Bolts – Removed 2 blanking bolts in upper right footwell. Remove two blanking bolts in engine compartment to frame.

Right blanking bolts

Right footwell Blanking Bolts

Steering Wheel Blanking Plate – Removed the blanking plate on right side of car. Located behind the asbestos insulation. Four sheet metal screws.

Slave Cylinder

Loosened one nut where hydraulic hose joins frame.

Slave Cylinder connection to Frame Clip

Slave Cylinder Mounting with Clip and shake proof washer

Fuel Line – Loosened the fuel line from the carb feed line and the fuel pump. Three to four clips run along the frame rail from carbs to fuel pump.

Wiring Harness – Carefully pulled the wiring harness from front firewall to the rear of the car. Approximately 10 screws through clips on frame. Also two screws and clips through asbestos insulation securing the harness.

Right wiring clamp

Voltage Box wiring

Wiring Clamps on Insulation 3

Firewall wiring clamp

Overdrive switch – Wiring connections: Left terminal – white/purple stripe. Middle terminal – 2 white/green stripe wires. Right terminal – 2 solid white wires. Bottom terminal – black wire from harness.

Firewall wiring harness

Overdrive relay

Relay wiring

Throttle Switch – Bottom terminal – white/ purple stripe wire. Top terminal – White/green stripe wire. See above.

Fuse Block – After disconnecting the wiring to the block, two #10 machine screws were loosened to release the block from the firewall. 

Fuse Block wiring

Fuse Block and relay

Voltage Regulator – Five terminals. Far left form driver’s perspective, labeled #1 with far left #5. 1 – black ground from adjacent screw. 2 – 2 solid yellow wires. 3 – 1 yellow/green stripe wire. 4 – 2 solid brown wires. 5 – 1 large brown/blue stripe wire. Note that there are three black ground wires to the adjacent firewall screw.

Voltage Box wiring

Voltage Box

Voltage Box (2)

Number Identification Plates – from the firewall. Both are secured with small chrome sheet metal screws.

ID Plates 3

ID Plate 1

ID Plate 2

Throttle Linkage – Four 7/16” bolts holding shaft under tunnel. Very hard to get to. Disconnect at pedal linkage. Remove accelerator pedal – two large pozi-drive screws. Remove throttle shaft locator collar from engine compartment wall, two screws and nuts.

Throttle Linkage 1

Throttle Linkage 2

Throttle Linkage 3

Throttle Linkage 6

Throttle Linkage 5

Throttle Linkage 4

Throttle Linkage 7

Accelerator collar

Accelerator pedal to firewall

 

 

Chapter 9 – Disassembly

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Steering Column Sealing Plate – Removed four sheet metal screws securing each of two sealing plates through which the steering column passes. Note the felt “gaskets” on the inside face of the plates.

Front Suspension and Steering  

The disassembly of the front suspension and steering assembly was a messy job. Lots of grease and grime built up over the years. I first jacked up the car. Disconnected the cross tube and side rods from the steering levers. The cross tube was 5/16” from the side to the nuts. Released cotter pins and took lever arms off. Used a fork and hammer to free the ball joints from the side rods at the inner and outer connections. Pulled the rods off.

Stub Axle Carrier, King Pin, Caliper, Dust Shield

Cross Tube, Ball Joint, Steering lever and Side Rod

RH Steering Lever

Stub Axle Carrier, King pin, Dust Shield

Cross Tube and Side rods

LH Steering Lever

Cross Tube Ball Joints –  were removed by repeating the same action as above. Unscrewed the mounting bolts from the steering box. This requires removing the 7/16” bolt that secures the left brake flexible fluid hose. 

Steering box – After removing the mounting bolts, the box and rod can be pulled out through the front of the car.

Steering Box in Place

Steering Box Oil Filler Cap

Steering Box Side View

Steering Box Mounting Position

Steering Idler –  Unscrewed three bolts to the mounting bracket and lifted the idler away.

Steering Idler

Steering Idler 2

Aluminum Spacer Block Mount

Aluminum Bracket Spacers – for steering box and steering idler were removed. They appeared to be interchangeable.

Removing Aluminum Spacer Block

Aluminum Spacer Block

Front Suspension Coil Springs – Removed two bolts and nuts at a diagonal. Nuts on top and bolt heads under bottom spring bracket plate. (this is opposite the picture in the manual so we need to check other cars before reinstalling) Inserted two threaded rods with nuts into those holes. Then removed the other two mounting bolts and nuts. Finally, gradually relieved pressure on the threaded rods until spring tension was removed. The left spring was broken on the bottom coil.

Coil Spring and “A” Arm with spring pan removed

Spring Pan

Anti-Sway Bar Bracket

Tub on Stands

Front Suspension Arms, Brake Rotors and etc.  – It was difficult to remove the arm bushings. They required extensive “torching” for heat and hammering, but all eventually released. Then removed the fulcrum pin securing the shock absorber arms and the four bolts to the shock towers on the frame. One hole on the right tower had been stripped and broken. Each shock had the remains of rubber rebound buffers on the towers. Once the shock was removed this permitted the removal of the left and right king pins and assembled units.

Front Shock Perch

Bent “A” Arm Bracket

Radiator 

Radiator Brackets were removed from the frame. Two 1/2” bolts for each bracket. We will be replacing the original radiator with an aluminum unit from Cape International.

Radiator Lower Mount

Radiator Mount Bracket

Radiator Brackets Removed

 

Chapter 8 – Disassembly

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Fresh Air Intake Assembly –  Three screws, two with nuts and one welded onto the tube secure the assembly to the superstructure. Disconnected the air control cable.

Fresh Air Intake Assembly

Fresh Air Intake Assembly

Flasher Relay –  Two cross head screws on top, one on bottom. All have nuts welded on the outside of the wheel well. The bottom screw also holds a wiring harness clamp and the ground wire. Starting from top left and going down – first wire is green with pink stripe, second is green/white stripe, third is white/brown stripe, and fourth is green/yellow stripe. Starting from the right top and going down – first wire is green/brown stripe, second is green/red stripe, third is white/purple stripe and fourth is green/? Stripe. Black ground wire is at bottom.

Flasher Relay Wiring 1

Flasher Relay Wiring 2

Flasher Relay Wiring 3

Bonnet Latch Support Bracket, Lever and Spring –  Note that the left side of center has a rubber tube over the spring and extension rod.

Bonnet Latch Return Spring

Bonnet Latch Rod

Bonnet Latch Support Bracket – The bracket is secured by two bolts and nuts.

Bonnet Latch Support Bracket

Bonnet Latch Return

Wiring harness extension for lights and horns – Two clamps located by screws and nuts at the front of the car.

Wiring Harness Clip Screws

Wiring Harness at Front of Car

August 3, 2002

Rear Axle and Related Assembly

The Bump Stop Boxes –  were removed from both sides of the car. Two large pozi-drive screws with large washers and nuts located by the rear occasional seats hold the boxes. Two bolts and nuts must also be removed in the side of each box that secure clamps for wiring. In our case the bolts were all broken from wear and tear.

Rear Axle Bump Stop on Car

Rear Axle Bump Stop Removed

Mounting Holes

The Fuel Pump –  was removed to get it out of the way of the axle. Disconnected 5/8” in and out fuel pipes to the pump. Remove 4 7/16” bolts into fixed nuts on the rear bulkhead wall. Finally, disconnected wire at knurled fixing knob.

Fuel Pump Mounted to Bracket at Rear Kick Panel

Disconnected White Wire to Fuel Pump

Fuel Pump and Bracket Removed

Boot wiring harness extension –  Wiring goes to the fuel sender and lights. We clipped the wire at the bulkhead for easy removal since we knew we would be replacing it. Two clamps with split head screws secure the wiring through the bulkhead wall. Additional connections are then made to route to the tailights.

Fuel Pipe to Pump and Wiring Harness

Wiiring Harness to Boot

Wiring Connector for Lights in Boot

Wiring Clip

Wiring and Handbrake Cable

Wiring Cable Removal

Handbrake cable –  The cable was removed from its axle attachment. To save time we just cut the flexible brake line hose to the junction.

Handbrake Components

Handbrake Components at Rear Axle

Rear Shock Absorbers – First removed nut to axle link. Then removed two nuts and bolts to rear bulkhead for each.

Rear Axle –  Drain differential fluid from the rear end. Place jack under differential to take pressure off springs. Loosen the four nuts on the U bolts under the mounting bracket. The nuts should be loosened gradually to avoid too much pressure on the spring. Disconnect tramp bar at mounting bracket on axle. Rotate axle and lift and slide out to the right.

Rear Axle U Bolts

Rear Axle U Bolt Mounting Plates

Panhard Rod Mounting

Rear Axle Removed

August 4, 2002

Steering Assembly

Steering Column Support Clamp – There are four holes available for the bolt and nut on the steering column bracket. The bolt was found in the 2nd hole from the firewall. Bolt heads were to the right, nut to the left.

Steering Column Mount

Steering Column Bracket Mount

Steering column bracket –  Removed the bracket by loosening four bolts and nuts.

Steering Column Bracket Removed

Steering Column Rubber gasket

Steering Shaft Bracket to Frame Mount from below

Steering Shaft Bracket to Frame Mount from Above

 

Chapter 7 – Disassembly

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Front Shroud

Removed five cross head drive screws at the rear of the bonnet. Three screws with nuts must be removed at the front of the shroud at the bonnet opening. Two cross head screws and nuts also attach the shroud to upright posts. A third bolt and nut holds the prop rod bracket. Five pop rivets were drilled out along the scuttle. Two additional rivets must be drilled out along each side and where the rubber seal attaches to the scuttle. Two bolts securing the shroud to each frame extension in the front must be loosened from their nuts. The shroud can then be released from the rear and pulled forward.

Prop Rod Bracket Removed

Rivet Removal

Front Shroud to Frame Mount

Shroud Removed 1

Shroud Removed 2

Rear Body Panel (shroud)

The rear body panel is released by first drilling out 19 rivets along the lower lip. Thirteen rivets must be drilled out that hold the body panel to the luggage compartment frame. Two or three rivets must be drilled out on the side of the rear body panel where the wing fastens to it. Four cross head screws and nuts must be removed from the top lip of the boot opening. The rear body panel can then be removed. Care must be taken to not bend the small front lip on the aluminum panel at the front points.

Rear Shroud 1

Rear Shroud 2

Doors

Removed three posidrive screws holding the interior door handle. Removed four posidrive screws at rear of door by handle. Removed opening mechanism. Loosen phillips head screw in door handle accessible when the door handle is pulled. 5/16” nut on the door handle screw. Loosen 5/16” nut on the screw on the back of the door handle – not easy to get to! Door handle can then be extracted from the door.

Interior Door Handle

Exterior Door Handle Fastener

Door Latch

Door Fasteners

Removed side curtain bezel and retaining nut and chrome washer. Removed mid-door wood strip. One pozidrive screw on top center and two screws to the left and right on the bottom side. Removed the door strap (catch). 

Door Catch Mechanism

Interior Door Trim Panel Wood

Door Opener Mechanism Orientation

Remove door hinges. Four bolts into a securing plate for each hinge. Drilled small indentation into the top bracket to recognize it. On reassembly of doors mount outside door handle first. Then install mechanism so that the action arm is in the proper place.

Door Catch at Door

Door Hinges

Aluminum Door Hinge

Boot Lid 

Removed two screws and cup washers securing the handle/lock. Remove four bolts/nuts holding the lock/catch mechanism. Remove one screw holding the locking mechanism post. Lock surface was painted as were the screw tops so it was installed when the car was painted. The chrome lock and handle were installed after the car was painted because the locking post screw was not painted.

Exterior Boot Lid

Interior Boot Lid

Boot Lock Handle

Boot Lock

Removed the large cotter pin holding the rubber boot lid support rod. The rubber could then be removed as well. The head of he pin was located on the rod locator bracket side. A small cotter pin was removed from the support rod at the home bracket. The rubber grommet was then removed and the rod was detached.

Removed rubber gasket sealing boot lid.

Boot Rubber Seal

Boot Prop Rod Clasp

Heater Blower Assembly

Removed four nuts on posts through rubber grommets. Black ground wire connects to the angle pillar. Power is through a green wire with a brown stripe that plugs into a rubber junction. 

Removed the two heater blower mounting brackets. Two bolts each through wheel well arch. Large washers used on the tire side of the arch.

Smith’s Heater Blower

Blower Mounting Location on Frame Upright

Blower Mounting Rubber Grommets

Blower Motor Wiring Connections

July 28, 2002

Under Bonnet Components

Horns – Located on the left and right of center under the front shroud. Each horn is secured with two bolts fastened into small steel threaded plates. I don’t believe my horns or brackets to be correct as one was mounted on the vertical shroud support like later cars.

Horn on Shroud Upright

Horn Wiring Connections

Proper Horn Location Under Front of Shroud

Horn Mounting Bracket

Chapter 6 – Disassembly

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Rocker Cover – loosened two bolts and removed rocker cover.

Rocker Cover removal

July 3, 2002

Engine Removal, cont’d

Gearbox mounts –  Removed 4 bolts securing the gearbox mounts and 4 bolts and nuts from the Propshaft at the gearbox union. The bolts on the gearbox side cannot be removed without removing shaft nut. There were also 2 nuts of the same size to remove on the underside of the chassis. Finally, the nut and securing pin on the gearbox stabilizer must be loosened and removed to free the gearbox.

Propshaft Removal

Clutch slave cylinder – Detached the cylinder from the bell housing by removing 2 bolts. Must also release the clutch operating lever by removing the cotter pin from the clevis pin.

Disconnected the wire clamp on the bell housing and unclipped the wire to the gearbox switch for the overdrive.

Overdrive Wiring Clip

Overdrive Wiring

Engine Hoist – We then thought we were ready to connect the hoist and remove the engine and gearbox as one unit. If we were doing this again, we would have waited until the shroud was removed to avoid any damage. It would have also made it easier to swing out the entire unit had we jacked up the car a bit first. That would have given the gearbox more room to swing vertically. Providing enough lift height on the hoist is a bit of a problem given the length of the combined engine and gearbox and the angle needed to successfully remove the unit. 

We also decided that while it isn’t theoretically necessary, it would be easier to pull the engine if the brake reservoir were removed. So we gave up due to darkness and gently reset the engine in the bay.

Helper Scott

Securing the Hoist Chain

Helper John

Freeing the Gearbox

Progress!

Resting for the Night!

July 4, 2000

Engine Removal, cont’d

Brake fluid reservoir – Removed the container by loosening one nut securing the bracket, and then loosening the two brass brake line nuts to the container. Note that there are also nuts on the bottom of the canister.

Brake/Clutch Fluid Reservoir

Brake/Clutch Fluid Pipes to Reservoir

Hydraulic lines –  Removed the hydraulic lines from the master cylinders to the reservoir canister. Note double clasp or clip on fender secured by a nut and bolt on outside of fender well. The longest pipe is the brake and is connected closest to the front of the car. Shorter pipe is the clutch line.

Attempted to remove the engine with the lift again. This time with better light, a less crowded space and with the lift chain adjusted we easily removed the engine and transmission.

The Helpers Got it Done!

Lin, Scott and the Beast

Free at Last with Gearbox Removed

 

Clutch Assembly and Ready For the Engine Stand

To mount the engine on the stand it was necessary to remove the gearbox from the engine. The bell housing was secured with 9  3/8” x 24 bolts including two that mount the starter. The bolt on the top right secures to the engine block without a nut. All other bolts have nuts. After removing the transmission we then had to remove the clutch. You must gradually slacken the cover screws a turn at a time until the spring pressure is relieved.

Clutch Assembly 1

Clutch Assembly 2

After the clutch assembly was removed, the flywheel was exposed. Four nuts with the lock washer straps were loosened. The crankshaft pulley must be held on the front of the engine to prevent the shaft from turning.

Exposed Flywheel

Clutch Fork

We were then able to transfer the engine from the lift to the engine stand.

On the Engine Stand

Engine Stand Mounting

July 22, 2002

Wings

The Front Wing – Removed 3 bolts joining the front shroud and the front wing below the headlight. These are slightly shorter than those used to secure the top of the shroud and the wing together. They are tightened to spring-clip type nuts. Removed the headlight and sidelight. The sidelight is fastened with three small screws and nuts on the reverse side. Two pieces of plastic piping are found above and below the sidelight. Four brass nuts accessible beneath the wing hold the headlight bucket in place. Seven bolts fastened the shroud to the wing along the top edge. Three bolts and nuts secure the wing to the frame along the bottom edge. Seven small self tapping screws fasten the wing in the door jamb to the hinge pillar.

The Rear Wing – Removed three bolts inside the interior and three inside the boot to remove the rear wing. The bolt located closest to the rear of the car, but still in the interior has a regular nut rather than a clip spring nut which must be held with a wrench when removing. There is also a screw near the door under the aluminum trim that fastened into a steel plate. At the bottom of the rear wing there are two bolts and nuts securing the wing to the frame and a vertical drive sheet metal screw. Finally, eight cross-head screws with nuts fix the wing to the door shut pillar and they must be removed.

 

Chapter 5 – Disassembly

Posted on by

June 29, 2002

Final Interior Dismantling

Gearbox tunnel and extension cover. Both were rusted badly and were discarded. I learned later as I was fitting new parts that I should not have violated the restorer’s rule: Never throw anything away until the project is complete!

Gearbox tunnel and extension cover

Fresh Air cover plate and screen on left (driver’s) side. Three self threading screws.

Parcel tray on passenger side. Four self tapping screws on the firewall. Three self tapping screws on the right side wall. One screw and nut into left side to hanging support bar. Then removed the parcel support bar with one screw and nut at top.

Parcel Tray Support brace.

Steering Wheel Shaft Blanking Plate on the right side. Note larger “painted washers” and self tapping screws. Felt gasket found on reverse side of the plate.

Steering Wheel Blanking Plate

Steering Wheel Shaft Blanking Plate Felt Gasket

Two Blanking Screws into captive nuts in firewall on passenger side that just fill holes similar to the driver’s side. These were not painted.

Large Wiring Harness Rubber Grommet in center of firewall. Then removed firewall tarpaper in center of firewall. Note the rubber insulation around the heater box hole and along the seam that would otherwise leak air.

Heat Insulation (tar paper) on firewall

Firewall Grommet

Heater Channel Opening

Center Panel Firewall “Tarpaper.” After removing the firewall “tarpaper” that is in three pieces I numbered the holes:

#1 – Bonnet release rod grommet

#2 – Blank Cover grommet

#3 – Grommet

#4 – Brake Line clip

#5 – Grommet

#6 – Grommet

#7 – Nut

#8 – Nut

#9 – Brake Line Clip

#10 – 1 Nut, 2 grommets Wiper motor

#11 – 2 Nuts

#12 – Nut

#13 – Nut

#14 – Nut

#15 – Nut

#16 – Main wiring harness to dash

#17 – Blank Cover Grommet

#18 – Nut

#19 – Nut

#20 – Nut

#21 – Grommet 

Left Panel Firewall “tarpaper”:

#22 – H2O temp. line

#23 – Oil line

#24 – Nut

Small Blanking Rubber Grommets under the heater opening in firewall. 

Blanking Rubber Grommets

Right Bonnet Hinge cotter pin and 4 washers. The thin washers go closest to the hinge. The nuts go to the inside of the bonnet.

Bonnet Hinge Fixing

Bonnet Hinge

Speedometer Cable at “L” junction to the gearbox.

Speedometer Cable to Gearbox

Clutch Pedal from pedal bar – two nuts. The nuts go to the right side. Removed the Brake pedal from pedal bar – two nuts with nuts to the right side. I noticed at this point that some primatively cut spacers had been added to the pedals for a short-legged driver!

Clutch Pedal

Clutch Pedal Spacer

Pedal Spacers

Floor Dip Switch with two bolts to the fixed nuts in floor. 3 wires: red/blue, blue/white, all blue.

Dip Switch Wiring and Bracket

Dip Switch

Heater Vents on both driver and passenger side below dash. Four self tapping screws in each

Heater Fresh Air Vent Door

July 2, 2002

Engine

Fan and fan belt – Loosened 4 bolts and washers and removed the fan and fan belt.

Fan and Fan Belt

Wiring to the coil –  CB Terminal – White with black stripe from/to the distributor body and white with black stripe from harness that goes to the generator. SW Terminal – Large solid white wire from harness to generator.

Coil Wiring

Generator – Removed 2 bolts and nuts and adjusting bracket with self-locking nut. F Terminal – yellow/green stripe wire from harness. D Terminal – Large solid yellow wire connected to large spade.

Dynamo – Generator

Generator Adjustable Mounting Bracket

Generator Wiring

Distributor –  Removed two 7/16” bolts – note position of distributor and vacuum advance. Numbered each wire to the correct cylinder. Disconnect vacuum line and oil feed line to the tachometer drive.

Distributor Wiring

Distributor

Distributor Cap

Distributor Mounting Clamp

Oil Filter –  Removed two large bolts to the engine block.

Oil Filter Mount

Oil Filter

Starter and Solenoid –  Disconnected solenoid to starter lead cable. Loosen two 9/16” bolts accessed through the interior bulkhead and under car.

Starter

Starter Solenoid

Starter Solenoid Wiring

Starter Cover

Engine mounts – Removed 4 bolts from right front to frame. Then removed left side.

Engine to frame Mount

Ground strap –  Disconnected the strap from the frame.

Oil pressure line –  Disconnected the line at top union near intake manifold.

Oil Pressure Line Disconnect

Breather pipe –  Disconnected the pipe at the “T” junction on the rocker cover.

Breather Pipe Disconnect

 

 

Chapter 4 – Disassembly

Posted on by

May 26, 2002

Wiring Harness

The wiring harness enters the interior cabin from a large centrally located grommet in the firewall. It splits into three strands.

Wring Harness at the Firewall Grommet

Strand “A”

Dash panel light switch – 3 wires, 2 red/white stripe to one post. 1 solid red wire to other post.

Dash Panel Light Switch 1

Dash Panel Light Switch 2

Heater – 1 solid green wire with bullet connector joint.  1 green/red stripe wire.

Heater Wiring

Ignition – 2 White wires to left post. 1 Brown wire/blue line to right post.

Ignition Wiring

Strand “B”

Speedometer – 2 black wires soldered to one loop connector to the right post. 

1 Blue/white stripe 

1 Lime green wire 

1 Black wire

Speedometer Wiring

Speedometer Wiring 2

Starter Button – 2 solid white wires soldered together to right post on button.

 1 white/red stripe to left post on button.

Starter Button

Dash Light – 1 red/white stripe wire.

Dash Light

Wiper Switch – 1 black wire/green stripe to left post. 1 solid black wire to right post.

Wiper Switch Wiring

Tachometer – 3 solid black wires soldered into one connector, fasten to left post on tachometer. 1 solid white wire – ? 

Tachometer

Lights – 2 red wires soldered together (1)

  2 large brown wires/blue stripe soldered together. (2)

  1 solid large light blue wire. (3)

Lights

Fuel Gauge – 2 solid green wires soldered together to left post. 1 green/black stripe to right post.

Fuel Gauge

Overdrive switch – 1 solid white wire to right post. 1 white/purple stripe wire to left post.

Overdrive Switch Wiring

Dash Light – 1 red wire/white stripe.