Chapter 13 – Cleaning and Trial Fitting

Posted on March 15, 2020 by valv8988

March 22, 2003

Rear Seats

The rear seat pans were very rusty and pitted to some degree, but given that they are completely covered by upholstery we decided to reuse them. The bottom exposed side of the seats was painted with a rubberized undercoating paint.

Rear Seats 1

Rear Seats 3

May 16, 2003

Canadian Delivery!

Martin Jansen delivered the healey from his shop in Canada on the back of his pickup truck! Big day!

May 16 Arrival Day from Martin 1

Rough Body 2

Rough Body

Rough Body 3

The frame and superstructure looked great. The fit of the wings will have to be improved upon. Door fit is pretty good, but will also need additional work. New edges were put on the rear shroud and rough repairs to the front shroud lower panel were made as well as around the rear shroud taillight area. Seeing the interior panels without rust is hard to believe, but they sure look good now! One disappointment is that mounting holes for a number of things are not located on new panels installed by Martin. Seat rails, exhaust mountings, insulation panels and etc will need to be aligned and drilled.

Firewall 3

Firewall 2

Boot 1

July 15, 2003

Maple Hill Restorations

After consulting with Jeremy Turner from Maple Hill Restorations we have decided to completely assemble the car while in primer to be ensured that EVERYTHING fits properly. This will prolong the project, and will probably lead to some short term frustration, but should also minimize problems with assembly once body work and painting is complete.

My first step is to determine proper fastener sizes and replace all original hardware with stainless steel, with the exception of higher load locations such as shock absorber and other suspension bolts. Those will be replaced with new grade 8 zinc plated hardware. Then we installed all of the rubber grommets in the firewall, footwell and other locations.

The Scientist at Work

Chased Threads and rubber grommets

Installed pedal box

Steering Bracket and Brace

Boot Grommets – The grommet for the battery cable and other bulkhead grommets were installed in the boot. The anti-theft battery switch and bracket were also installed.

Boot grommets

Battery box and switch

Bump Box

Boot Tire Buffer

Insulation Panels – Some of the mounting holes for the heat insulation panels on the firewall and footwell were also not drilled. We located the proper locations, drilled the holes and mounted the panels without difficulty.

Insulation 1

The Oil Pressure Line – The line was located and installed although new clips will be ordered.

Oil Line

The Dip Switch and Parcel Tray – These components were also located and installed. Note the original water bottle.

Parcel Tray & Bottle

Installed dimmer switch

Radiator Brackets – The brackets were cleaned and painted and were installed on the crossmember, and the painted air intake flange.

Radiator Mount 2

July 23, 2003

Hardware Reassembly

Door Staps – The original door straps (catches) were cleaned, re-zinced and installed on the door pillars.

Door Strap 1

Door Strap 2

Bonnet Hinges – The bonnet hinges were cleaned, primed and new stainless hardware was installed, and then mounted to the car.

Bonnet Hinge 1

Bonnet Hinge 2

March 22, 2003

More Cleaning

Bonnet Latch Hardware – Disassembled and cleaned the bonnet latch assembly and the bonnet opening rod assembly for Jeremy Turner to media blast and paint.

Bonnet Rod Spring

Bonnet Rod Bracket grommet

Bonnet Latch A

Bonnet Latch B

Bonnet Latch C

Also cleaned the bonnet rod clip, the catch bracket, two safety latches, the brake reservoir bracket and two shroud brackets.

Body Panels and Trim

Posted on May 20, 2015 by valv8988

Body Panels and Trim

Cover and Blanking Plates

Of course, there are many large and small components that comprise the finished body of the MK2. The clean-up and preparation of the body and its primary parts is addressed in the “Body Prep” post. However, I have also begun to prepare some of the smaller components such as the covers or blanking plates for the firewall and under-dash interior of the car. The Jag was assembled for home and foreign markets so holes were located in the body superstructure to accommodate either LH or RH steering. Blanking plates were fastened over the holes not used. For example, the image below shows the Cover Plate Over Steering Column Cut-out on Centre Dash as well as the Headlamp Dipper Switch Blanking Plate. The Cover Plate for the Steering Column is pop riveted to the body from the interior side of the firewall, while the Dipper Switch Plate is secured from the engine side of the firewall with two #10″- 32 x 1/2″ hex head bolts, nuts and shakeproof washers. The nuts are located on the engine side of the firewall with bolt heads on the interior side. The image shows socket bolts, but they will be replaced.

Steering Wheel Shaft & Dip Switch Blanking Plates

In early July, 2014 I began trial fitting many components. This was motivated by the trial installation of the RetroAir air conditioning kit. The dip switch blanking plate hardly required trial fitting, but you have to start somewhere. I did not trial fit the Steering Wheel Blanking plate since it required riveting to install and I did not want to drill out the rivets again.

Dip Switch Blanking Plate Trial Fitting

Dip Switch Blanking Plate Trial Fitting – Interior View

I made a closed cell foam gasket for the steering column blanking plate and installed it in the firewall/floor with screws temporarily. I will rivet it to the firewall/floor after the body is painted.

Foam gasket for Steering column blanking plate

The Cover Plate Over Pedal Mounting Cut-out on Centre Dash

I will not be using the Cover Plate since I am air conditioning my car and the Blower mounts in this location with a new face plate.

The cover plate uses the same gasket as used on the master cylinder housing. It is secured to the firewall with four 1/4″ – 28 x 1/2″ hex head bolts with plane and shakeproof washers and 1/4″ -28 nuts.

Cover Plate Over Pedal Mounting Cut-out on Centre Dash

Striker Plate for Bonnet Catch

I media blasted the striker plate and will have it zinc plated. Not sure that it will matter, but I drilled a small hole in the left front corner (from the driver’s seat) to relocate the plate when the time comes. The plate is secured to the car and to the other catch components with two two 1/4″ – 28 x 3/4″ hex head bolts.

Striker Plate

Striker Plate Clean

Bonnet Catch Base Plate, Catch Plate and Spring

These three pieces of the bonnet catch mechanism were media blasted and will be zinc plated.

Bonnet Catch Components

Bonnet Striker & Pin

This assembly consists of the striker pin or peg, three retaining washers, a spring, and a nut to adjust the compression of the spring. The assembly mounts to the bonnet with the threaded end of the peg which is 7/16″ – 20. The large washer was bent and I don’t know if that is intentional or not. I could not find new components from the usual vendors so I blasted these pieces and painted them with POR-15 to prevent future rusting.

Bonnet Striker Pin Assembly

Safety Hook for Bonnet Catch

The safety hook for bonnet catch is comprised of the hook, tension spring, pivot pin, flat washer and split pin. I media blasted these components and while as original they were painted body color, I had the safety hook chromed and the other components cad plated.

Safety Hook

Safety Hook Components Cleaned

Safety Hook for Bonnet Catch

Adaptor Plate Assembly for Solenoid and Solenoid Weather Protection Flange

The starter solenoid and its mounting bracket are fastened to the Adaptor Plate with two #10 – 32 x 1/2″ machine screws and shake proof washers. The Assembly is the mounted to the firewall through the Weather Protection Flange with three 1/4″ – 28 x 1/2″ hex head bolts and shakeproof washers.

Solenoid Mounting

Trial fitting of the Starter Solenoid Bracket and Weather Protection Flange.

Adaptor Plate Assembly for Solenoid and Solenoid Weather Protection Flange

Access Panel for Radiator Grille

A small panel is provided below the chrome grille to access its the fixing points to the body. As with most of the car, this panel was heavily coated with undercoating. I removed the undercoating, blasted the piece and treated it with rust preventative for painting later. The panel is secured to the body with two #10 -32 x 1/2″ slotted machine screws.

Access Panel

Access Panel for Radiator Grille

LH Valance

Getting rid of heat build up under the bonnet is a real problem with the MK2 Jags. I am adding air conditioning that will probably further contribute to the heat issue. Following the lead of some others I decided to remove a lower section of the LH engine bay valance hoping that the opening would help some of the heat escape a little more efficiently. I ordered some stainless wire cloth from McMaster-Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-wire-mesh/=xas1n5 that has four openings per inch. The cloth is welded not crimped to form the mesh. The idea is that the stainless wire cloth will allow the heat escape but will also keep any road debris from entering the engine bay.

LH Valance Area to be Removed

LH Valance Opening for Cooling

It was a little challenge to get the screen to fit because of the curvature of the sides of the valance opening. I used 1/8″ x 1/2″ steel to frame the mesh cloth and welded the corners. Nut sets were used to fasten the frame to the body so that the screen could be removed for cleaning from the wheel well.

I intentionally left a small gap along the lower edge so that water and grime would not be trapped between the screen and the body. I will have the screen painted body color before final installation.

Fabricated Ventialtion Screen

LH Valance Ventilation Screen in Place Inside

LH Valance Ventilation Screen in Place Outside

Body Prep

Posted on November 24, 2012 by valv8988

Removing Grease, Grime and Rust

On the Jaguar project, I am trying to keep the cost down by doing much of the work myself rather than just handing the car off to a shop to restore. Unfortunately, that means removing years of grease and dirt without many of the tools that you might find in a professional shop. Actually, the grease and dirt aren’t so challenging, but the undercoating and tar-like substance used in the interior are an entirely different matter!

I first tackled the engine bay using Simple Green cleanser, a little carb cleaner, wire brushes, some 3M abrasive disks with compressed air, a face mask, and protective glasses.

Cleaning Tools

Cleaning the Engine Bay

Once I finished the engine bay I sprayed a rust inhibitor on it and then I did take the body shell to my friend Jeremy Turner at Maple Hill Restoration who sand blasted the engine bay and sprayed it with a PPG self etching primer, called wash primer. The primer is DX1791, the activator is DX1792. Other than the upper RH section of the firewall that was rusted away from battery acid and a few holes in the ventilation distribution chamber (I don’t know the proper name) everything seemed very solid. I noted that the area in front of the radiator was apparently painted a flat or satin black and given the evidence of paint drips it was probably painted by brush.

After getting the car back from Jeremy I moved on to the left wheel well and the LH front section of the frame. I tried some undercoating remover from Eastwood, but it didn’t work so well. I then resorted to the old standby – a hand held propane torch and a putty knife. While the process is slow it did produce good results and I discovered very little rust.

The Tools Required for Undercoating Removal

Front LH Wheel Well

It is another day and time to work on cleaning up the RH front wheel well. Here are a few before and after shots following application of the propane torch, putty knife scraper, wire brush and elbow grease:

RH Wheel Well Before

RH Front Wheel Well

RH Front Wheel Well with Undercoating Removed

I am getting so good at this that I moved on to the front cross member assembly and the corner braces. I could not complete this because my frame dolly is in the way, but I will adjust it when I move to working on undercoating removal under the car.

Cross Member Undercoating

Cross Member Cleaned

Assembly Cleaned

Front Cross Member Cleaned

I have not removed the undercoating that is sprayed on the wings (fenders) because I am concerned about warping the sheet metal with the heat of the torch. I will consult some professional help before any more cleanup on the wings and shroud.

Next, I moved to the RH rear wheel well of the Jaguar and began the now all too familiar stripping process.These are before and after photos of the wheel well.

Wheel Well with Undercoating

Undercoating Removed

Once completing the wheel well, I moved to the RH rear frame rail and floorboard. These are the “Before.”

Rail and Floor

And, these are “After!”

Undercoating Removed

I also did a little removal at the RH Rear seating bulkhead. I must say, I continue to be amazed at how rust free this car is after almost fifty years!

RH Rear Bulkhead Undercoating Removed

It is the weekend following Thanksgiving, 2012 and time for more torchwork, scraping and brushing. I put in several hours removing for grime and undercoating.

RH Floor Board & Tunnel

Propshaft Tunnel

Propshaft Tunnel Clean

After a respite of a few days to work on the rear axle, I am now back at the underbody clean-up. As I have said, tedious work but gratifying in that the metal work is looking so good. Almost no rust at all, YET! I worked on the area behind the rear axle today encompassing the underside of the boot floor and the spare tire storage area. Here are some “before and afters.”

Boot Floor Before

Boot Floor After

Boot Floor Before

Boot Floor After

Shock Mount

Fuel Tank Filler

Spare Wheel Container

Spare Wheel Container Before

Spare Wheel Container After

The LH rear wheel arch was the last major area to clean. I discovered a rusty spot on the rim where the inner arch and outer wing come together. Otherwise, this area cleaned up well.

These are a couple of “before” images:

Wheel Arch Before

And, these show what a torch, putty knife scraper and wire brush can do!

Wheel Arch Clean

Today is New Years Day, January 1, 2013. I mention the date, not because of New Years but because after weeks of scraping and brushing I finished the chore of removing the undercoating today!!!!

I encountered a weird issue that will require research. I was cleaning the Frame Reinforcing Channels where the leaf spring fastens to the frame and discovered a difference. The upper clamp assembly on the right side is welded to the channel directly with no gap, while the LH side has about a 3/8″ gap between the clamp assembly and the channel. I have no idea why the two sides would be different.

LH Pad Seat

RH Pad Seat

I then finished up some additional work on the front wheel arches:

LH Front Arch

RH Front Arch

I then removed the undercoating from the LH and RH Stay Brackets or Crow’s Feet. These are often rusted through, but mine are almost pristine!

LH Stay Bracket

RH Stay Bracket

The underside of the bonnet was also covered with the bituminous undercoating that did not make for a very nice appearance. I put the bonnet on a bench painted side down. I covered the surface with towels and drenched them in mineral spirits and then covered the mess with plastic bags to prevent rapid evaporation. An hour or so later armed with a putty knife, scraper and a 3M scratch pad I was able to remove all of the undercoating.

Bonnet Undercoating Removal

Lastly, I cleaned and then media blasted the gearbox cover. It has a few blemishes and holes I will repair before installation.

Gearbox Cover

Valve Chatter

Tag Archives: Body

Chapter 13 – Cleaning and Trial Fitting

Body Panels and Trim

Body Prep

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