Engine Post-Installation Check List

Having just installed my engine and gearbox into the car chassis, I thought it might be useful to keep track of the various related installations and connections that need to be made before one turns the ignition key and hits the starter button to fire-up the refreshed engine. I will try to journal this check list of items in the sequence that they are addressed, though I may find that I need to modify the chronology as things unfold.

1. Water temperature sensor wire:

Water Temp Sensor Wire at Intake Manifold

Water Temp Sensor Wire at Intake Manifold

2. Oil Pressure Sensor Wire:

Oil Pressure Sensor Wire

Oil Pressure Sensor Wire

3. Dip Stick – I discovered that the placement of the electric steering pump interfered with the free travel of the dip stick. I found it to be easier to shorten the dipstick than to move the pump!

4. Heater Feed Pipe Hose Connection to Intake Manifold:

Intake Manifold Feed Hose to Heater

Intake Manifold Feed Hose to Heater

5. Heater Return Pipe Hose Connection to the Front Return Pipe at the Side of the Cylinder Head – the XK’s Unlimited stainless pipe does not fit well so I have ordered and offset hose to hopefully compensate for the poor fit.

6. Checked the firewall wiring Ground Strap to Chassis path to make sure all of the wiring is routed under the heater pipes, clutch hydraulic pipe and hose and the alternator cable, note the position of the clips. On final assembly the loose wiring will be in a wire look cover:

Firewall Wiring

Firewall Wiring

7. Wiring Clips below the heater. Two yellow zinc clips, one for the alternator cable, and the other for the collection of smaller gauge wires:

Yellow Zinc Wiring Clips Installed

Yellow Zinc Wiring Clips Installed

8. Flexible Hydraulic Stainless Steel Hose at rear of the cylinder head:

Goodridge Flexible Clutch Hose

Goodridge Flexible Clutch Hose

9. Starter Cable – The cable was previously connected to the starter. The other end was routed to the rear lug of the starter solenoid and secured with a rubber boot over the connection:

Cable from Starter to Solenoid on Firewall

Cable from Starter to Solenoid on Firewall

10. Ground (Earth) Strap – Connected to the firewall with a 5/16″ shake proof washer and a 5/16″ – 24 x 1/2″ hex head bolt:

Ground Strap to Chassis

Ground Strap to Chassis

11. Plenum drain hose – The drain hose was secured to the plenum pipe at the firewall with a hose clamp and routed between the chassis and the transmission, behind the throttle linkage. I zip-tied it to the ground cable at the firewall to make sure that it did not rub against the throttle linkage:

Plenum Hose clamp at Firewall and wiring below pipes

Plenum Hose clamp at Firewall and wiring below pipes

Plenum Drain Hose zip-tied to Ground Cable

Plenum Drain Hose zip-tied to Ground Cable

12. Installed the alternator and its primary cable from the ANL Fuse on the LH engine bay valance. I took advantage of a captive nut already located on the valance as a place to install a yellow-zinc clip to secure the alternator cable.

Alternator to ANL Fuse Cable Installed

Alternator to ANL Fuse Cable Installed

Alternator Cable Valance Clip

Alternator Cable Valance Clip

13. Alternator Pig Tail wiring leads:

Alternator Cable and Pigtail Installed

Alternator Cable and Pigtail Installed

14. Compressor – connected the black wire from the compressor with the black wire from the air conditioner drier.

Compressor Wiring to Valance

Compressor Wiring to Valance

15. Coil wiring – white wire from ignition, fuse position #6 to positive terminal at coil; and white/yellow wire from tachometer to negative terminal at coil:

Coil wiring Installed Tach to - terminal FP6 to + terminal

Coil wiring Installed Tach to – terminal FP6 to + terminal

16. Reservac Tank Vacuum Hose – from brake servo reservac tank check valve to the vacuum line at the RH side of the cylinder block:

Vacuum Hose from Reservac Tank Installed

Vacuum Hose from Reservac Tank Installed

17. Reverse and Top Gear Switch Wiring at Gearbox – Rather than routing these wires as Jaguar did (through the gearbox tunnel) I decided to install a rubber grommet in the tunnel and run the wiring to the interior of the car. Each wire was then connected with two-way snap connectors and will be hidden by the central console:

Grommet for Reverse and Top Gear Wiring

Grommet for Reverse and Top Gear Wiring

Reverse and Top Gear Wiring at Gearbox Cover

Reverse and Top Gear Wiring at Gearbox Cover

18. Change Speed Lever, Rubber Grommet and Retaining Ring – I removed the lever knob and slid the grommet over the lever shaft ( a little petroleum jelly doesn’t hurt), punched holes in the grommet with an awl and installed the ring and grommet with four #4 x 1″ chrome slotted finishing self-tapping screws.

Gear Selector Installed

Gear Selector Installed

Rubber Grommet on Gearbox Cover for Change Speed Lever

Rubber Grommet on Gearbox Cover for Change Speed Lever

19. Breather Assembly – The breather hose/pipe for the engine originally routed to the air cleaner where the mist would be recirculated into the carburetors. In my case, I am not using the original air cleaner and I did not want to recirculate the emissions from the breather pipe to the fuel system anyway.

I chose to use a catch can manufactured by Mishimoto. The can is a very clever design.

Mishimoto Compact Catch Can

Mishimoto Compact 2 Port Catch Can

Of course, a Jaguar owner cannot have a product with a Japanese name on it visibly mounted in the engine bay, (never mind that many of the newer parts used in the restoration probably were produced in China!) so I chose to mount the can on the front suspension crossmember. At this location it is very easy to access to check accumulation. I also used a K&N Filter for the outlet port.

The elbow hose from the breather port on the engine is a 5/8″ I.D. but the fitting on the catch can is a 3/8″” barb so I used a barbed brass step down fitting between the 5/8″ hose and a 3/8″” hose. The straight emissions hose runs from the elbow almost straight downward, and parallel to the servo breather hose, to the catch can.

Breather Elbow Hose

5/8″ to 3/8″ Brass Step Down Fitting for Breather

These photos are dark and it is a challenge to see the mounting of the can. I was able to use a hole that was already in the front crossmember so it was not necessary to drill any holes to mount the catch can. Always a pleasing outcome!

Mishmoto Catch Can Mounted on Front Suspension Crossmember

Mishmoto Catch Can Mounted on Front Suspension Crossmember

K&N Filter on Catch Can Outlet Port

 

 

Engine Cooling

Engine Cooling

Water circulation is assisted by an impeller type pump mounted on the front cover of the engine, the system being pressurized and thermostatically controlled.

 

The Cooling System

The Cooling System

Water Pump and Pulley

I replaced the original water pump with a new “upgraded” unit sourced from SNG Barratt.

Water Pump 

An alloy “V” belt water pump pulley was purchased with the air conditioning components from RetroAir. It measures 5.65″ in diameter and is secured to the pump with four 5/16″ – 24 x 1-1/4″ hex bolts

Water Pump Pulley

 Belt, Driving Fan

I used a 1/2″ “V” belt ordered from Advance Auto Supply. I like to get expendable items like these at a common auto supply house when possible so that if the belt breaks I can easily pick up a new one. The belt in the image below is NOT the one that I ended up using. The belt rides on the crankshaft, water pump and alternator pulleys and it is a DAYCO 17415  13A1055 that is 41.5″.

Classic half inch V Belt 39.5 Inside Measurement and 41.5 Outside

Fan

I  installed a higher performance fan than the original. I purchased it from Guy Broad in the U.K. It is some form of plastic/nylon and each blade has a greater angle to catch more air than the original. Unfortunately, I found that to accommodate the air conditioning compressor without conflict, it was necessary to trim an 1/8″ off each fan blade. This was accomplished fairly easily. I will check, and adjust if need be, the balance of the fan before final installation.

Guy Broad Fan

Guy Broad Fan

Guy Broad Fan Trimmed to Fit

Guy Broad Fan Trimmed to Fit

Adding the belt tensioner pulley for the air conditioning also created a clearance problem with the fan blades. I installed four 1/4″ bushings/spacers between the fan and the water pump pulley to move the fan slightly forward.I used a very small amount of dum-dum to hold the spacers in place as I mounted the fan to the water pump pulley.

Fan Spacers with dumdum

Moving the fan forward the 1/4″ did not create an issue with the radiator! Because of adding the spacers I changed the original fan mounting bolts to 5/16″ – 24 x 1 1/4″ hex head bolts with flat and shakeproof washers.

Tensioner Pulley and Fan Blade Clearance

Radiator Fan Shroud

New fiberglass fan shrouds can be purchased from SNG Barratt. I found it necessary to modify the shroud slightly to provide clearance for the air conditioning compressor, the lower radiator tank  hose fitting and for the crankshaft pulley. 

Fan Shroud Opening Modification to accommodate the Sanden Compressor

Fan Shroud Opening Modification for the lower radiator hose fitting

The shroud is secured to the radiator by fastening it to four 5/16″ – 24 studs on the radiator using stainless flat washers, shakeproof washers and hex nuts. the slots cut into the shroud from the manufacturer were not sufficiently large to fit properly so each of the four mounting holes was somewhat enlarged using a dremel tool.

Enlarged Fan Shroud Mounting Holes

After a trial fitting of the shroud I found that I did not like the original silver/grey color of the shroud and painted it gloss black to match the upper radiator tank.

Radiator

I had chosen to replace the original radiator with an aluminum unit made by Wizard to improve cooling and assist with the air conditioning system. I purchased the radiator from RetroAir with my other air conditioning components. It looked beautiful!

I ended up not using the Wizard unit because it did not fit properly. It sat too high, contacting the bonnet, and because of the wider upper tank it did not allow sufficient space for the wiring harness that travels across the front of the radiator from the LH valance to the RH valance. A sad and expensive lesson. I could have modified the aluminum unit to fit but could not solve the wiring harness problem to my satisfaction.

I decided to return to my original radiator but had it recored by Blue Sky Radiator with a modern cooling matrix. I painted the sides of the assembly and the lower tank with POR-15 after using their metal prep product. I then used progressively finer sandpaper to prepare the upper tank surface and then painted it with a Duplicolor self etching primer (three coats) and Duplicolor Engine High Temperature Gloss Black spray paint (also three coats). I just lightly dusted the front of the core with the high temperature paint as I wanted to avoid affecting the heat radiation properties of the radiator to the extent possible. I did not paint the rear face of the core. I was pleased with the results:

Painted and Recored Original Radiator

Painted and Recored Original Radiator

Installing the Radiator and Shroud

After the fan is mounted to the water pump pulley, it is necessary to loosely position the shroud over and behind the fan.

Fan Shroud in Position for Radiator Install

LH and RH rubber pads and distance tubes for mounting the radiator block to the car need to be located in the mounting holes in the frame.

Radiator Mounting Rubber Pads, Distance Tubes, and special washers

One can then carefully manipulate (not quite as easy as it sounds) the radiator downward as the fan blade is turned by hand. The radiator lower mounting studs need to fit into the rubber pads and distance tubes and then through the frame. Once the radiator is in place, another rubber pad, the special washer and a 3/8″ nylock nut can be loosely secured to the mounting stud. The shoulders on the rubber pads need to face the hole in the frame.

Rubber Pad, Distance Tube, Special Washer and 3/8″ Nylock Nut Lower Radiator Mount

Once the lower mounting hardware is fastened, the two upper mounts on the LH and RH sides of radiator can be secured using the special 3/8″ – 24 bolts, rubber pads and distance tubes. I had cleaned these special purpose bolts and had them zinc plated.

With the four radiator mounting points all secured, the fan shroud can then be mounted to the four radiator studs using flat and shakeproof washers with 5/16″-24 hex head nuts. I then back-tracked and tightened down all the fittings.

Both the upper and lower radiator hoses can then be fitted to the radiator and Jubilee Clips tightened.

Hose from Bottom of Radiator Block to Water Pump with Size 2A Jubilee hose clip

The images below show the radiator assembly with the black fan shroud mounted in the car:

Radiator, Fan Shroud and Upper Hose in Place

As can be seen in the image above, Jaguar provided an overflow outlet from the radiator neck. I attached and clamped a 5/16″ drain hose from the outlet. For the moment I have it draining to the ground as I am not sure if it will be needed. I plan to use Evans Waterless Coolant in my car. The Evans product supposedly produces very little pressure. This is a subject I will address in greater detail later. Should I find that the drain is needed I will find a place SOMEWHERE for a collector bottle. The image below shows the drain hose and clamp used.

Radiator Coolant 5/16″ Drain Hose

Radiator Drain Tap

I disassembled the brass drain tap and after cleaning and lubricating I reinstalled it in the refurbished radiator. I did not have a fabric washer that fit so I used a rubber “O” ring. The drain tap is not installed in the radiator until AFTER the radiator is mounted in the car. Otherwise it becomes an obstacle in mounting the radiator.

Drain Tap for Radiator Block with rubber O ring

As originally configured, Jaguar provided a proper remote control for the drain tap, allowing the owner to open the drain valve by simply turning the control rod rather than crawling under the car. See the image below. Unfortunately, I am unable to use this control rod because its mounting bracket contacts the air conditioning compressor. I will just have to crawl under the car an operate the drain tap by hand!
control-rod-assembly-operating-drain-tap-1

 

Hoses and Temperature Sender

I replaced all rubber in the car including the heater and engine cooling hoses. Here are the three primary coolant hoses with new Jubilee clamps. The top water hose, from radiator block to water pump, the hose from the bottom of radiator block to water pump, and the by-pass water hose.

Primary Coolant Hoses

Primary Coolant Hoses

I debated for some time about where to install the water temperature sending unit to control the operation of the electric fan. These are typically placed in the engine, on the lower radiator tank, the upper radiator tank, or in an especially designed coupler inserted into the upper radiator hose. I decided against modifying the original radiator and ultimately chose to use a hose coupler. I cut the upper 1-1/2″ hose and inserted the coupler. The clamps are 32-50mm.

Fan Thermo Switch in Hose Coupler

I used a SPAL Automotive USA IX-185-2TS Fan Sending Unit purchased from Summit Racing Equipment https://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=SPU-IX-1852TS.  It threads into the coupler with a 3/8″-18 NPT thread and turns off at 165 degrees F., and turns on at 185 degrees F. I liked this switch because it has a separate wire to ground rather than relying on the body of the switch for ground. The aluminum coupler was purchased on ebay: Radiator Sensor Tube Adapter Water temperature Gauge 1-1/2″ OD 3/8″ NPT (141025992422).

SPAL Thermo Switch

The Adaptor, In Inlet Manifold, For Water Feed to Heater Unit

The original Adaptor, In Inlet Manifold, For Water Feed to Heater Unit was corroded badly, so I replaced the adaptor with a new one sourced from SNG Barratt, including a new fiber washer.

Adaptor In Inlet Manifold for Water Feed to Heater Unit

Adaptor In Inlet Manifold for Water Feed to Heater Unit

Radiator Cap

The MK2 used a 4 lb. cap originally and may have gone to a 7 lb. cap later in production. I am not sure. I sourced a new 7 lb. cap from M&C Wilkinson in the U.K. for my MK2. It is important to get the proper length cap so as to achieve the right seal in the radiator neck.

7 lb. Radiator Cap

 

Engine Mounting

Engine Mounting

Rear Engine Stabiliser

The rear of the engine is attached to the firewall (dash) of the car via a stabilising link with a rubber bushing and a rear mount on the firewall with a rubber bushing. I cleaned both components and installed new bushings.

Stabilising Link at Rear of Cylinder Block, Bush, Stepped Washer, Stepped Bush, Nut

Stabilising Link at Rear of Cylinder Block, Bush, Stepped Washer, Stepped Bush, Nut

The rubber mounting for the stabiliser link needed to be replaced. I purchased a new one and had the link zink plated. This image shows the mounting and the link as an assembly.

Rear Engine Stabiliser Assembly

Rear Engine Stabiliser Assembly

Engine Stabiliser

Engine Stabiliser

As can be seen in the illustration above, the stabiliser link is secured to the bell housing via two brackets, the LH and RH bearing brackets, mounting the stabilizing links at the bottom. The brackets are fastened to the bell housing with four 5/16 – 18 x 3/4″ hex bolts with lock washers. The link is fastened to the bracket with a single 7/16″ – 20 x 1-3/4″ hex head bolt with a nylock nut. The link is fastened to the firewall bracket using a stepped bush and stepped washer with a 3/8″ – 24 nylock nut.

Rear Engine Stabiliser Mounted

Rear Engine Stabiliser Mounted

 

Rear Engine Mount – The Channel Support Assembly

The assembly includes: The channel support, a rubber spring seat, a center rubber busing, the coil spring for rear engine mounting, four aluminum packing blocks between the flange of the channel support and the underside of the floor, eight bolts (5/16″ -24 x 1 3/8″), eight flat washers, eight split locking washers, and four stiffening plates. The Spring Retainer Assembly for Rear Engine Mounting is attached to the gearbox.

Rear Engine Mount

Rear Engine Mount

 

Engine Rear Mounting Assembly

Engine Rear Mounting Assembly

The rear engine mounting plate actually supports the tail of the gearbox and it bolts to the superstructure of the car. I cleaned and media blasted the Channel Support component of the assembly and powder coated it. The Assembly includes the channel support as well as its rubber spring seat, the rubber center bush, the spring retainer, the coil spring, the pin assembly, the bolt securing the rear engine mounting to the gearbox, a self-locking nut, four packing blocks and four stiffening plates. I replaced the rubber spring seat and the rubber center bush and the mounting fasteners with new components. The coil spring and stiffening plates were clear cad plated and the aluminum spacers were cleaned and clear-coated.

Support Assembly

Support Assembly

Coil Spring

Coil Spring

Support Stiffening Plates

Support Stiffening Plates

Channel Support Assembly Components for Rear Engine Mounting Assembled

Channel Support Assembly Components for Rear Engine Mounting Assembled

Reassembling and Installing the rear engine mount
The Jaguar Service Manual provides instruction for installing the rear mount. Place the spring retainer into position so that the stem protrudes through the centre of the spring and the washers welded to the two large lugs on the spring retainer are facing the side of the channel support, which has an extra cut-away portion in the flange. Compress the spring until the stem of the spring retainer protrudes far enough through the bottom of the channel support to allow a large washer to be placed over the stem and an 1/8” (3 mm) rod to be inserted through the hole in the stem.” Of course, nothing is said about HOW to compress the spring. I found that I needed a press to do the job and it makes the task quite easy.

Rear Engine Mount with Pin Installed

Rear Engine Mount with Pin Installed

Rear Engine Mount Fixed to Gearbox

Rear Engine Mount Fixed to Gearbox

Spring Retainer

Spring Retainer

Two 7/16″-20 x 1-1/2″ hex head bolts with nylock nuts are used to secure the rear channel support (rear engine mount) to the gearbox. Note that the spring retainer needs to face the proper way as seen in the diagram and photos with the bolt heads to the front of the gearbox. The rear engine mount is now ready to old to the chassis with the eight (8) hex head mounting bolts.

Rear Engine Mount Attached to Gearbox

Rear Engine Mount Attached to Gearbox

Front Engine Mounts

Upgraded engine mounts were ordered from SNG Barratt and were painted once received.

Upgraded Engine Mounts Painted

Upgraded Engine Mounts Painted

I wondered if the upgraded mounts were the same size as the original spec (but new) rubber mounts so I ordered a couple to see:

Upgrade Mount top and Original Spec Mount bottom

Upgrade Mount top and Original Spec Mount bottom

One can immediately see that the flange used to mount the rubber to the bracket is of a different shape and slightly wider, but it fits. Then to measure the height:

Upgraded Engine mount 1.243 inches High

Upgraded Engine mount 1.243 inches High

Original Spec Engine Mount 1.088 inches High

Original Spec Engine Mount 1.088 inches High

Hopefully this is not great enough difference to create a mounting problem. When I install the engine I will try the upgraded mounts first and see if they fit, but I have a fall-back if they do not.

This is an image of the both brackets and rubber mounts ready to go on the car. I have used Grade 8 fasteners throughout. The rubber mounts attach to the flange brackets with 5/16″-24 x 1″ hex bolts and I have used nylock nuts. The bolts used in the rubber mount are 1/2″-20 x 7/8″ with split and flat washers. The two long bolts in each flange assembly are 5/16″-24 x 3 3/4″ while the shorter bolts are 5/16″-24 x 3/4″ and each is secured with a nylock nut and flat washer. The assemblies were blasted and painted with POR-15.

Bracket Assemblies with mounting rubbers and hardware

Bracket Assemblies with mounting rubbers and hardware

I am going to be installing the engine and gearbox before I complete bodywork and paint so I went ahead and installed the mounts to the car. I left the rubber mounts slightly loose as there is a little adjustability for mating with the engine. I will tighten after the engine is installed.

RH Motor Mounts Installed

RH Motor Mounts Installed

LH Motor Mounts Installed

LH Motor Mounts Installed

The Trial Engine Install

As mentioned in other posts under the “Restoration” heading of this site, my plan is to install the engine/gearbox, electrical system, front and rear suspension and etc.  so that I can test and run the major systems before I paint the car. So…. after getting everything in and tested I will then pull it all out, do the bodywork and paint and then reassemble. Crazy I know, but then no surprises after the car is painted.

Here is a short video I made of the install of the rebuilt engine. I used my lift to lower the car over the engine. You will note that I removed the LH engine mount and the exhaust manifolds – just to protect them since they have an expensive new porcelain coating now. On the RH side of the engine I removed the carburetors and their linkage, but left the oil filter and starter.

In a separate entry “Engine Post-Installation Check List” I will detail all of the connections and other items that must be tended to prior to starting the installed engine.

When I do this the final time and at the suggestion of a buddy and advisor, John Stefanik, I will leave the LH mount as well as the alternator and air conditioner compressor/mount and remove the RH mount and the oil filter. The alternator and compressor are not easy to mount once the engine is in the car. We will see. Anyway, here is my install video. Thanks to my wife and grandson for their assistance!

Engine Rebuild

Clean-up Before Rebuild

I had thought about outsourcing the machine block cleaning and machine work and then rebuilding the engine myself, but thought better of it given time limitations and decided to go ahead and give the complete engine to Mike Gassman at Gassman Automotive http://www.gassmanautomotive.com for a soup to nuts rebuild. Mike and his team had done XK motors before and are experienced with the motor, ignition, fuel system and etc.

I spent a few days cleaning the block and head to remove as much grease and grime as possible before turning everything over to Mike.

Front of Cleaned Engine Before Rebuild

Front of Cleaned Engine Before Rebuild

RH Side of Engine

LH Side Engine

Underside of Engine

Rebuild Engine

Machine Work:

  • Resurface Head
  • Valve Job
  • Install Guides
  • Pressure Test
  • Resurface and weld Exhaust Manifold Cracks
  • Drill for Oversize Lifters
  • Drill for Hold Downs
  • R&R Pistons
  • R&R Bushing Under Over
  • Recondition Big End
  • Grind and Polish Crankshaft
  • Magna-Flux Crankshaft
  • R&R Crank Plugs
  • Rebore and Hone Block
  • Pins
  • Replace Core Plugs
  • Balance Pressure Plate, Cylinder Block
  • Resurface Flywheel
  • Magna-Flux Block
  • Resurface Cylinder Head
  • Polishing Two Valve Covers, Two Carbs Dashpots, Intake Manifold, Oil Cap, Cover and Water Neck

Parts:

Where possible used components in good shape were used in the rebuild; however, in many instances new parts were required to replace worn or broken bits. The original compression for the 3.8 MK2 engine was 9:1; however, primarily because of the lower octane rating of fuel today and due to the way I plan to use this car, I decided to use 8:1 compression Mahle pistons in my rebuild. This is not a complete list and it is in no particular order, but new parts ordered included the following:

  • Cam bearing Set
  • Engine chrome hardware
  • Oil Filter
  • Spin-On Oil Filter Kit
  • Payen Brand Head Set
  • Cylinder Head Studs
  • Seal Kit
  • Lock Tab Kit
  • Thrust Washer Set
  • Piston set
  • Tri-metal Connecting Rod Bearing Set
  • Tri-metal Main Bearing set
  • Core Plug Set
  • Pilot Bushing
  • Clutch Kit
  • Water Pump
  • Timing Chain, Guide and Tensioner kit
  • Lower Gasket Set
  • Tappet Hold Down Kit
  • Tappet Guide
  • Valve Spring Set
  • Oil Pump
  • Oil Pump Adapter
  • Bronze Valve Guide Set
  • Intake Valves
  • Exhaust Valves
  • Oversize Tappets
  • 10W30 Break in Oil with Zinc Additive
  • 15W50 Oil with Zinc
  • Engine and Bearing Assembly Lubricant
  • Sealants/Sealers/Cam Lube
  • Gloss Black paint
  • Metallic Blue Spray Paint for the Cylinder Head
  • Flamethrower Coil
  • Chrome Coil Bracket
  • Flamethrower Ignition Leads
  • Spark Plugs
  • 123 Distributor
  • Brass Nuts
  • Thermostat
  • S.U. Throttle Shaft 1 3/4″ Butterflies
  • S.U. 1 3/4″ Butterflies
  • 5/16 22 BSF Banjo Bolt HD Starting Carb
  • 3.8 MK2 SM/1402 Carb Kits
  • Drive Belt
  • Hoses to Radiator
  • Radiator Hose Clamps
  • Heater Hose
  • Heater Hose Clamps
  • Gear Reduction Starter
  • Engine Ground Strap
  • Oil Pressure Sender
  • Oil Quick Drain Valve
  • Blast, Anneal and Porcelain Coat Exhaust Manifolds
  • Carb Banjo Bolts and Washers
  • Alternator and Mounting Bracket

Rear Main Crankshaft Seal

I did some research on the replacement of the rear main crankshaft seal. A number of the usual vendors sell modern upgrades for this seal to help prevent oil leakage. The apparent most popular upgrade kit does require some machining of the crank.

After checking with those on the saloon-lovers forum and a few other MK2 owners, the consensus seemed to be to stay away from the upgrade kits. However, Peter Wise aka “Old Goat” [email protected] recommended a GraphTite seal made by BEST Gaskets as a modern material upgrade to the original rope seal. The kit is available from EGGE Machine http://www.egge.com  part number: 6382S and it is for a Pontiac 1968-76 8 cylinder 428-455. It is a direct replacement for the rope and does not require any machine work. I cannot explain why the Pontiac V-8 seal works in the MK2 3.8 but Pete claims that it works quite well. I have ordered the kit and Mike and his team installed the seal upon rebuild. The seal kit included an installation tool for $17.39!

GraphTite Rear Main Seal

GraphTite Rear Main Seal

Dynamo Mounting Bracket and Spacer

I probably will not use the dynamo bracket with my alternator, in favor of a turnbuckle brace, but I cleaned it up and painted it  – just in case.

Dynamo Adjustment Bracket

 

Dynamo Bracket

Coil Bracket Extension

Coil Mounting Bracket Extension

Spin-on Oil Filter Kit

Oil Filter Assembly

Oil Filter Assembly

As seen in the image above, the original oil filter is a full flow type and has a renewable felt or paper element. Modern spin-on alternatives are available and I installed the kit provided by SNG Barratt. Purists may object, but most who have installed the spin-on arrangement report success and it is certainly much easier to change.

Spin-on Oil Filter Instructions

SNG Barratt Spin On Oil Filter Kit

SNG Barratt Spin On Oil Filter Kit

Harmonic Balancer

I decided to have the harmonic balancer rebuilt by Dale Manufacturing http://hbrepair.com/harmonicbalancer_018.htm in Salem, Oregon rather than purchase a new one. The rebuild was under $150 and the final product looked pretty good.

Harmonic Balancer

Harmonic Balancer

Timing Marks

Oil Sump Dipstick

Got the dipstick back from the plater. I vaguely recalled that the background on the handle was a somewhat unusual blue color. Someone on the Forum indicated that Revlon’s After Party nail polish was the perfect color, so I ordered some and painted the handle:

Revlon's After Party Nail Polish

Revlon’s After Party Nail Polish

 

Revlon's After Party Nail Polish after Application

Revlon’s After Party Nail Polish after Application

Oil Drain Plug

I ordered an EZ Oil Drain Valve for XK Engines from Cool Cat Express just to make the oil drain process a little easier. As their advertisement says; “This all aluminum drain valve mounts permanently in place of your drain plug. A simple twist of the wrist will open and close it. No more stripped threads, no more lost plugs. One piece aircraft quality 6061 aluminum and 302 stainless steel. Aluminum has clear anodized finish for long, corrosion free life. Seals are replaceable. Nothing to break, nothing to lose: saves labor, saves your oil pan, save aggravation. The perfect companion for our spin on conversion kits! Fits all Jaguar oil pans with 5/8″-18 thread. This includes ALL XK motors, and many V12’s.”

This is a photo of the Valve and the plug it replaces:

Cool Cat Express Oil Drain Plug

Here is a photo of the new valve installed:

Cool Cat Express Oil Drain Valve Installed

Engine Rebuild Process

Mike Gassman Installing bearings

Mike Gassman Installing Bearings

Engine Block

Engine Block

Crankshaft

Crankshaft

New Main Bearings

Connecting Rods

Timing Gear Chain

Pistons & Timing Gear

RetroAir Aluminum Pulleys

 

 

 

123 Distributor

New Porcelain Exhaust

Primary Coolant Hoses

Engineering Art

Compressor & Shield

New Belt Routing

Distributor

Spin-on Filter

Front View

Engine Run-In

After Mike and his staff got the engine together they made a test stand so that we could do preliminary adjustments and make sure we were leak free. I am trying Evans Waterless Coolant in this engine and it was used in the testing.

All of the attention to balancing really paid off as the engine runs very smoothly with very little vibration. Everything checked out beautifully.

Thanks to Mike for a beautiful engine and a beautiful job. I recommend him to others without reservation.

The Gassman Team

The Gassman Team

Engine Testing

Engine Testing

Engine Testing

Maestro Mike

Maestro Mike