In this video we build an engine starting stand. We decided to do this because we will be changing the pair of HS2 SU carbs currently on the car for a single SU HIF 44 carb. This obviously means that a change in the intake manifold is also required. The new manifold was sourced from Maniflow in England, but is not shown in the video because at the time the video was made the intake was being coated by Jet-Hot. We will also be switching from the 25D Lucas distributor to an electronic unit that is yet to arrive.  

Another big motivator for going ahead with the engine stand is that the engine and gearbox are already out of the car, so easy-peasy!

There is also a leak from the timing chain cover that will need to be fixed and this way we will be able to run the engine to determine if we resolved the problem. If a second attempt is required, it will be much easier to fix while the engine is out of the car.

While final tuning needs to be done when the engine is under load, the engine run-in stand will allow us easy access for initial tuning. After constructing the stand from wood we then added the components necessary to start and run the engine. The ignition switch, starter button and starter solenoid from a Big Healey were utilized in the build. An analog engine analyzer was incorporated to primarily provide a tachometer function when testing and tuning the engine. A pair of Harbor Freight moving dollies were used to enable wheeling the new stand around the garage. The exhaust including the muffler will be attached when it is time to start the completed engine.

This view of the stand shows the installation of the radiator and an electric cooling fan. For test purposes the engine-driven mechanical fan is removed. Since the heater is not part of this system, a 1/2″ section of heater hose is used to connect the water valve and the return pipe.

Radiator and fan on engine stand

This view shows “Mission Control.” The panel includes the engine analyzer/tachometer, the keyed ignition switch, starter switch, charging warning light, the water temperature and oil pressure gauge, and toggle switches for the radiator electric fan and the electric fuel pump.

Mission Control

In this view most of the components required to start the engine are visible: the battery, starter solenoid, fuse panel, ground bus bar, fuel pump and hose, ignition coil and distributor are all visible.

Engine Starting Components

The intake manifold, the new carburetor, and the exhaust still need to be added.

Intake, Carb and Exhaust to be Added

This is our wiring schematic. All of the electrical circuits have been checked but anyone interested in building a similar plan should develop their own wiring plan. This worked for us, but may not work for you.

Mission Control

Bugeye Restoration Video Episode Forty-six provides a visual summary of the engine stand construction: https://vimeo.com/864520391/1954686c70?ts=0&share=copy

In a Bugeye engine bay, the Smiths heater box and blower are quite prominent so it is important that in addition to functioning well, they also look good! This Episode Forty-five video of the Bugeye Restoration shows the refurbishment process. The original plan was to use the heater box that was in the car, but in the end we decided to replace the box with a unit manufactured by Ashley Hinton in the UK. 

The matrix was flushed and checked for leaks and the blower motor was tested. The unit is now ready for installation in the car.

Episode Forty-five:https://vimeo.com/860319039/8d4bcf8c4c?share=copy

We were plugging away on the new electrical system for the Bugeye (pun intended!) when by chance we happened upon a Facebook listing for the sale of a Bugeye body shell and bonnet that appeared to be in excellent condition. The car was purported to be a rust-free Arizona car and the bodywork, priming and etc. had been completed. Everything was ready for paint. No mechanical restoration had been undertaken – the opposite of our situation. We have most of the mechanical and electrical work done but the bodywork, paint and interior are still ahead of us. Unfortunately, we are in Florida and the car is in Michigan.

Michigan Bonnet

Michigan Chassis

Michigan Rear Shroud

Michigan Underside

To make the proverbial long story a shorter one, the car checked out and we will be purchasing it around mid-June. Because garage space is limited we began with an immediate and total disassembly of the Bugeye to prepare for the arrival of the “new” car. We want to be able to move the old shell and bonnet out of the garage at the same the “new” car arrives.

As of June 1, 2023 everything has been removed from the car except for the front and rear suspension, the steering and the engine. The engine will come out this weekend and then the remaining components will quickly follow suit. A trolley has been built for the new shell so that it will be easy to move around.

The following Bugeye Restoration video episode forty-two covers the disassembly that has occurred since mid-April. In less than thirty minutes, two weeks of work is recorded for help with reassembly later. The list of items covered in the video is very long this time, but to make it easier to find a particular topic without having to sit through the entire video, the index is provided.

https://vimeo.com/832369002/c87fd61c10?share=copy

0:00 – Restoration Disruption explained

1:57 – Exhaust removal

2:23 – Ground Cable from Chassis to Gearbox

2:32 – Rear Propshaft separation

2:39 – Draining Rear Differential, Gearbox and Engine Oils

3:05 – Battery, Battery hold down bracket and battery tray removal

3:15 – Battery cables from positive post to alternator and starter switch

3:33 – Battery ground cable

3:40 – Starter switch

4:01 – Ignition Coil

4:38 – Oil pipe/hose from engine to gauge

4:42 – Oil pressure/water temp gauge and capillary tube

4:58 – Heater hoses

5:05 – Heater Box 

5:38 – Heater/Battery tray

5:44 – I.D. number plate

5:57 – Carburetor and heat shield

6:23 – Throttle Cable

7:09 – Intake manifold and exhaust header

7:30 – Oil Catch can

7:39 – Breather hoses from rocker cover and timing chain cover

7:50 – Loosening engine motor mounts

8:31 – Gearbox mount bolts

8:45 – Gearshift cover, gear shift lever and additional gearbox mount bolts

9:47 – Master cylinders and pedal box

10:13 – Brake pipe from master cylinder to brake pipe union

10:28 – Wipers, Wiper rack, wheel boxes

11:26 – Windscreen washer nozzles

11:40 – LH Radiator support brace

11:52 – Rubber seal between body and bonnet

12:15 – RH pedal box blanking plate

12:25 – Assorted rubber grommets, and blanking screws/bolts

13:30 – Four rubber pads between bonnet and body

13:37 – Two metal block and rubber inner fender buffers

13:44 – Windscreen

14:18 – Exterior mirror 

14:38 – Interior rear view mirror

14:48 – Tonneau lift-a-dot posts (3)

15:20 – Demister vent nozzles

15:52 – Cockpit and door aluminum trim

16:04 – RH Door seal removal

16:25 – RH Door panel, carpet and latch assembly

16:47 – RH gearbox footwell panel

17:00 – RH Demister hose and elbow

17:03 – RH front floor carpet

17:10 – Slave cylinder access rubber bung

17:25 – RH heater vent door

17:33 – RH accelerator pedal assembly blanking bolts/screws

17:52 – LH door panel, seal, carpet and latch assembly

18:12 – LH vinyl panel below door and rubber grommets covering door hinge access

18:23 – LH gearbox footwell panel and carpet

18:36 – LH gearbox oil filler access bung

18:42 – LH heater vent and demister hose and elbow

18:57 – Accelerator pedal assembly

19:09 – LH carpet snaps

19:15 – LH front floor carpet

19:43 – Rear tonneau/Soft top fastener hardware on the rear shell

21:00 – Rear bumper overrider and bracket 

21:28 – Fuel Tank, filler pipe, rubber collar and hard pipe to fuel pump

23:15 – Fuel Pump

23:32 – Fuel pump mounting template

23:58 – “Sprite Flash” emblem for the boot

24:03 –  Spare tire and wheel

24:23 – Handbrake assembly and cable

26:30 – Propshaft Grease zerk access grommet

26:54 – Jacking rubber bung

Bugeye Restoration Video Episode Forty-three shows the removal of the engine/gearbox, the front and rear suspension, rear axle, steering rack and steering column and wheel.

https://vimeo.com/834433124/0ce1f668d0?share=copy 

0:46 – Engine and gearbox removal

4:15 – Rear axle and suspension removal

5:25 – Front suspension and steering rack removal

10:00 – Steering column and wheel removal

11:25 – Fuel pipe removal

11:50 – Parts storage and dolly construction

With two of us in the garage, and using the four post lift as an engine hoist, we were able to pull the engine and gearbox from the car. A simple and pain-free process. Even though both the engine and gearbox had been drained of oil we still had a little spill out when the unit was angled to release it from the car. With the engine and gearbox sitting on a Harbor Freight dolly we were able to set it aside so that attention could be turned to the rear axle and suspension as well as the front suspension and steering.

Rear axle and suspension removed

Front suspension and steering removed

Chassis/shell on the dolly and motor tucked away

We installed some 2x4s between the ramps of the lift and added some plywood giving us the perfect storage platform for all of the Sprite parts. We are now ready for the new chassis from Michigan!

Sprite parts galore

My car has been modified to convert the bonnet from the original hinge at the rear, opening from the front, to a front hinge opening at the rear. This is a common modification and it does offer much greater and easier access to the engine and other under-bonnet components. I want to be able to quickly and completely remove the bonnet from the car if the need arises and this means that the wiring harness that services the electrical needs of the front of the car must provide for an electrical connector joining the primary system to the bonnet.

The bonnet includes the LH and RH combined side and flasher lights, the LH and RH main beam headlight, and the LH and RH high beam headlight. 

Video Episode Thirty-nine details the removal of the wiring harness and the lights:

https://vimeo.com/817788749/594dff6323

Episode Thirty-nine includes the following content:

0:00 – Removing the bonnet electrics

0:40 – Wiring harness splice with connector

0:50 – Harness routing in the bonnet

1:27 – RH sidelight/flasher removal

2:00 – Headlight components and trim ring fixing

3:00 – Headlight plug to bulb

3:37 – Headlight bucket and seal removal

3:59 – Headlight alignment adjusters

4:58 – Harness routing

5:07 – LH side light and flasher

5:32 – Wiring harness removed

We will be completely replacing the wiring in the Bugeye with new materials including a new relay/fuse panel sourced from Classic Technologies. Before we can give attention to the “new” going in, the “old” must come out. Just to help with resolving any wiring issues later, we will be disciplined in the removal with video and written documentation of how things are installed. What is coming out of the car is not original, in fact, it is not even a professionally produced harness. The previous owner built his own harness which while not very elegant did seem to function effectively.

There is quite a lot of work involved in removing and documenting and the process took several days. The links for a three-part video series are provided below along with a sequential index of video content for each.

Bugeye Restoration Video Episode Thirty-six may be found here: https://vimeo.com/814019363/4c3a30ee20

Episode Thirty-six includes the following content:

0:00 – Heater blower switch

1:29 – Windscreen washer

2:12 – Dash Steady bracket

2:40 – Wiper switch

2:52 – Wiper motor

2:56 – Rheostat knob for tachometer and speedometer lamps

3:04 – LH forward kick panel removal

4:30 – Dipper switch

4:57 – Panel lamp switch

5:10 – Flasher warning lamp

5:40 – Tach wiring to ignition coil

5:50 – Radiator fan toggle switch

5:57 – Ignition/Lighting switch

6:27 – Start pull knob to solenoid

6:42 – Choke cable

7:05 – Water tem/oil pressure gauge

7:35 – Water temp gauge capillary tube

8:28 – Horn push button wire

9:24 – Starter cable and grab handle

9:45 – Choke cable removal

9:49 – Steering column dash collar removal

10:19 – Bare dash fascia

Bugeye Restoration Video Episode Thirty-seven may be found here:

https://vimeo.com/814045832/a23ed5228f

Episode Thirty-seven includes the following content:

0:00 – Wiring harness to dipper switch

1:18 – Ignition/Lighting Switch red wiring to front, rear and panel lights

1:46 – Wiring harness to the rear of the car

2:18 – Dipper switch wiring connections

2:26 – Wiper Switch

3:34 – Speedometer high beam warning lamp

5:00 – Gauge lamps ground wires

5:10 – High beams headlight wires

5:42 – Ground wire for gauges and front lights

6:57 – Windscreen washer wiring assembly

7:08 – Modification of dipper switch bracket

8:25 – Panel lamp switch wiring

10:20 – “A” terminal of Ignition/Lighting switch wiring to starter solenoid and fuse panel

Bugeye Restoration Video Episode Thirty-eight may be found here:

https://vimeo.com/814076642/7844f4f2b5

Episode Thirty-eight includes the following content:

0:00 – Boot side panel removal

0:19 – Electrical fixtures at the rear of the car

0:42 – RH tail light

1:20 – RH tail light wires

1:40 – LH tail light wires

1:50 – Flasher lights

2:39 – Number plate light

3:10 – Number plate plinth and light

3:40 – Number plate light wiring

4:25 – Wiring harness to the rear of the car

5:45 – Fuel gauge wiring

6:42 – Flasher warning indicator

7:00 – Flasher canister

7:18 – Flasher audible alarm wiring

8:20 – Flasher switch

8:42 – Flasher canister wiring (again)

9:28 – Horn relay

9:58 – Coil wiring

10:08 – Alternator wiring

10:50 -Battery cable to starter solenoid

11:02 – Wiper motor wire

It seems that we have been working on rebuilding and installing the front suspension for a very long time, but in this post the suspension and front brake components are finally reinstalled in the car.

We attached the lower “A” arm to the hub assembly. This involves positioning the king pin between two cork washers and screwing the fulcrum pin into the “A” arm the outer bushing, through the king pin and into the other side of the “A” arm.

Screwing fulcrum pin into “A” arm and king pin

The fulcrum pin needs to be centered in the king pin with the concave curve in the pin open such that the cotter pin (with one flat side) can be inserted into the king pin and pushed through the fulcrum pin so that a nut can be attached to the lower end of the cotter pin. This process is covered in the attached video.

Cotter pin in place

After going through that process we discovered that the steel bushes in the used “A” arms were completely knackered with way too much play and we had to order a new pair. The “a” arms are available from British Heritage and are supposed to be as original, however, they are very expensive. A lower priced aftermarket “A” arm, produced in the UK, is also available and contributors to the on-line Sprite Forum reported that these units are satisfactory. So, we ordered a pair of these from AH Spares and repeated the process of mounting the hub assembly to the “A” arm!

After market “A” arm and new coils spring

One side of the “A” arm outer bushing was already capped, but the other side required a screwed plug and grease zerk to be screwed into place.

“A” arm grease zerk fitting

The next step was to install the hub assembly and “A” arm (wishbone) to the car. While supporting  the weight of the hub assembly on a floor jack, the assembly was secured to the damper arm with the top fulcrum pin.

Supporting hub assembly to insert uppertrunbnion fulcrum pin

Like the lower pin, there is a concave spot on the shaft of the bolt through which the damper pinch bolt must align in order for the pinch bolt to screw into the damper arm. The top fulcrum pin is inserted from the rear through a new rear poly bush, pushed through the upper trunnion, and then through the front poly bushing before passing through the damper arm where it is then secured with a castle nut and split pin.

Upper Trunnion bolt washers and poly bushes

Upper Hub Assembling Mounting

The Upper Trunnion sits atop a thrust washer on the swivel axle. Two small shims are placed on the king pin below the thrust washer and upper trunnion before they are placed on the top of the king pin. After the upper trunnion is in place a nylock nut is used to tighten the swivel axle assembly. At this point we have the hub assembly secured at its top. We did not tighten the upper trunnion until after we mounted the lower “A” arm to the car.

New poly bushes were mounted on either side of the inside of the “A” arm and using a combination of a floor jack and a bottle jack the inside of the “A” arm was pushed into place so the the inner fulcrum pins could be pushed through and secured with nylock nuts. These won’t be tightened until we have the weight of the car on the ground.

With everything mounted properly it was time to tighten nuts and bolts. The top trunnion nut was torqued to 40 ft. lbs. If the rotation of the hub (front to back) is too tight a shim is added, if there is too much play a shim is removed.

We then tightened the two bolts that secure the caliper to the swivel axle. These are tightened to 46 ft. lbs. The tab washers under the bolt heads will be turned up at a later date. The steering arm bolts were torqued to 39 ft. lbs. The tab washers under the bolt heads will be turned up at a later date. Finally, the three mounting bolts on each damper were torqued to 27 ft. lbs.

Everything buttoned up

The next step was to install the front coil springs. The spring seats, or pans, were removed  from the “A” arm. The spring was then placed on the spring seat and pushed upward through the “A” arm wishbone. Compressed springs can be very dangerous and consequently we choose to use long threaded rods to safely compress the springs.

We prepared four 5/16″ – 18 “all-thread” rods by cutting each to six inch lengths. Double nuts were placed on the top of the rods and tightened against one another. Coupling nuts were used on the top and bottom to make the nuts more accessible to turn with a wrench. Flat washers were also used between the spring seat and the nuts.

The nuts were gradually tightened until the spring was compressed and the spring seat was tight against the “A” arm. Then, one at a time, the long rods were loosened and replaced with 5/16″-24 x 3/4″ hex head bolts and nylock nuts.

Coil spring installed

1 1/8″ wooden spacer block to simulate normal hub height

We will still need to bend back tab washers, lubricate the grease zerks and tighten the inner “A” arm fulcrum pins, tighten the hub nut and insert its split pin and install the grease caps. But, these are all little steps to be accomplished later. The big stuff is done.

Bugeye Restoration Video Episode Thirty-four addresses the joining of the hub assembly with the lower “A” arm (wishbone) and the the installation of the combined assembly to the car.

https://vimeo.com/807699575/1a3cf45eb0

The following steps are addressed in the video:

0:00 – Lower “A” arm installed to king pin and swivel axle

1:18 – Outer fulcrum pin, cotter pin and grease fitting installed

2:29 – Excessive play discovered in old “A” arms

4:00 – Lower coil spring pans installed in “A”arms

4:30 – Hub assembly and “A” arms installed in car

5:00 – Poly bushes installed in inner “A” arm and then to car

5:53 – Damper pinch bolt and upper fulcrum pin

6:52 – Torqueing the caliper, steering arms, and damper bolts

7:24 – Coil spring installation with “all-thread” rods