Although the subject is not very interesting or exciting, going through the car to make sure all of the fasteners are tight and/or properly torqued where appropriate is critically important for the safe operation of a newly restored vehicle. In the short video below, we move from fastener to fastener under the car and also report on the size of the wrench required to do the job.
Bugeye Restoration Video Episode One Hundred-Eight:
With June 2025 upon us, it was time to wrap up a few final items and get the engine started. This step is always exciting but also riddled with anxiety!
Good friend Randy Forbes helped us improve the looks of the engine bay by carefully bending a 1/2″ stainless steel pipe to replace the original copper heater pipe.
Original copper and new stainless steel heater pipe
The stainless pipe clearly looks better in the engine bay!
New stainless heater pipe mounted in place
Then it was time to get our electric fan’s thermostatic controller working. The water temperature fitting in the engine cylinder head is used for the water temperature gauge in the dash. Fortunately, there is also a bung for a temperature sensor or thermostatic switch in the top of the aluminum radiator. We modified an original temperature sender fitting by tapping it with 1/8″ NPT threads to receive a new switch that we picked up from Amazon. It turns on the electric fan at 190 degrees and cuts off at 175 degrees. We also have an override switch built in behind the dashboard. The wiring for the switch was previously anticipated and incorporated in our wiring loom.
Modified sender fitting and new thermostatic switch
Electric Fan Thermostatic Switch Install
With that job completed we then put about four gallons of fuel in the fuel tank and checked to see if we had any leaks. Experiencing none, we then turned on the ignition and ran the SU fuel pump to pump fuel to the HIF44 carb in the engine bay. Again, no leaks!!
No fuel leaks below the fuel fittings
With that behind us we then turned off the ignition and cranked the starter to generate fuel pressure as observed at the water temperature/oil pressure gauge.
The engine started right away as anticipated, since we had previously run it on a stand in the garage. However, we also encountered a very bad vibration and knocking sound. The noise seemed to emanate from the driveshaft tunnel. While we initially thought the noise might be coming from the driveshaft striking the body, after thinking about it for a while, we determined that they carburetor was running too rich, and the idle was set too low. once adjusted the engine smoothed out and the vibration disappeared. Hooray! The problem and solution can be seen and heard in Bugeye Restoration Video Episode One Hundred-Seven.
We also discovered that we had a problem with the gear shifter hitting the driveshaft tunnel thereby restricting its full range of motion.
Gear Shifter Hitting the Gearbox Tunnel
That was nothing that the careful application of the Dremel tool couldn’t solve. After a little paint was applied we reassembled everything and it was another problem solved.
The next problem we encountered was that the alternator was not charging the battery. We are using a Speed Hut, electronic tachometer supplied by Bugeyeguys.com. The electronic tachometerr does have provision for a charging light, but it is an LED. Unfortunately, an LED bulb does not generate sufficient load to signal the alternator to start charging the battery. We found out that you must have an incandescent bulb in the circuit to get the alternator to do its job. So, we modified our wiring and added an incandescent warning bulb in the charging circuit. The wiring modification is routed through Deutcsh connector D1. This process is also shown in the Bugeye Restoration Video Episode One Hundred-Seven. We just tucked the new light under the dash out of sight.
Finally, we made a slight modification in the carburetor float bowl overflow pipe by cutting off the curve at the end of the cunifer pipe and fitting a piece of quarter-inch rubber fuel hose at the end. We also replaced two 3 1/2″ bolts that go through the chassis floor into the gearbox mount with two 3 1/4″ bolts to avoid the possibility that the longer bolts might contact the upper part of the mount and cause vibration.
Bugeye Restoration Video Episode One Hundred-Seven:
https://vimeo.com/1092260334/7e6d3cd034?share=copy
Content summary:
0:00 – Heater pipe stainless steel replacement
0:25 – Radiator fan thermostatic switch
1:33 – Fuel in the tank
2:32 – No fuel leaks!
3:02 – Rotating starter for oil pressure
3:17 – Engine start
4:45 – Knocking and vibration
5:25 – Searching for source of vibration
6:03 – Shifter surround modification
6:35 – Vibration problem solved
7:30 – Shifter problem fixed
8:06 – Alternator not charging
9:07 – Wiring modification in charging system
10:52 – Modifying the carb overflow drain pipe
11:18 – Gearbox mount bolts
This post, while very short, is nevertheless important in the restoration process because on May 26,2025 (Memorial Day) the Bugeye came off the dollies and jack stands to sit on its own tires! There are a number of items remaining on our checklist before we call the job done, but this is a milestone event.
On the Gound
Bugeye Restoration Video Episode One Hundred-Six commemorates this exciting accomplishment:
The Bugeye throttle cable used for HS1 or HS2 carbs is too short for use with the single HIF44 carburetor. So, we had to make our own. We had some cable conduit on hand that was long enough but we needed to find the proper ferrules to use for the ends of the cable. We finally located the right size step ferrule and purchased some from Venhill USA. Part number F82B, stepped ferrule for cable LB1TS – 5.5mm O.D. https://www.venhillusa.com/f82b.html The stepped ferrule is used at the end of the cable that sits in the chassis fitting close to the accelerator pedal assembly. The other end of the cable uses a standard bicycle cable ferrule. The Bugeye Restoration Video Episode One Hundred-Five contains information about the proper length of the new cable.
The choke cable is also not a standard or OEM cable. We are using a choke cable sourced from Bugeyeguys https://bugeyeguyparts.com/products/locking-choke that has a two-step lock feature, stopping once at high idle and then stopping again at full choke. However, the downside of this modification is that the cable and its conduit are too long. With our special cutters we shortened the cable and added another stepped ferrule. This ferrule is a little larger than the one for the LB1TS cable because the choke cable is a larger diameter. We used part number F115 for the LB3Ts cable 5mm Diameter.
Bugeye Restoration Video Episode One Hundred-Five: https://vimeo.com/1088506360/d8e3e4af71?ts=0&share=copy
Getting the engine and gearbox into the car was a big step in the restoration process, but there is still much to be done to get the engine ready to start and the car on the road.
In advance of the engine installation, we put together a check list of items associated with the engine/gearbox that needed to be accomplished. The list is in no particular order. As we completed items we gave ourselves a check mark and it was fun to see the checks start to add up as we got things done.
✅Remove Bonnet – struts and hinges.take the strut off first. before removing the bonnet hinges disconnect the Deutsch connector and the spade connector at the horn.
✅Jack Stands – place the car on jack stands.
✅Engine Hoist Leveler – Remove rocker cover and install leveler on engine.
✅Engine Mounts – Move rubber buffer from engine stand to the car mount.
✅Starter – Attach the power cable to the starter that will connect to the starter switch later in the process.
✅Battery Ground cable to firewall – disconnect during engine install.
✅Engine fan – install six blade fan and spacer. Install fan belt and check tension.
✅Crossbar protector – put the custom-made sheet metal protector over the steering rack crossbar to avoid damaging the paint.
✅Remove fluids – from engine, radiator and transmission –
✅Timing marks – make sure these are visible on the pulley before installing the engine.
✅Driveshaft Prop – Grease the yoke and the transmission splines.
✅Slave cylinder – check threads of the two mounting bolts, should be metric. The threads of the push rod extend beyond the arm by approximately one half inch (6-8 threads showing). The excess on the spacing shim goes to the front of the engine. Find the slightly shortened Allen key for the new cap screws.
✅Engine Mounts – Install the left-hand engine mount onto the chassis and leave it loose. Install the right hand engine mount onto the engine and leave it loose.
✅Header – Set the exhaust header in place so that it will be positioned to install once the engine is in place.
✅Engine/transmission install with engine hoist – Check to see if the heater plenum will require modification. Before the assembly is all the way home push the driveshaft yoke into the rear of the transmission.
✅Transmission mount – install the ⅜” – 24 x 3 ½” bolts through the chassis and into the mount and tighten. Next, tighten the front engine mounts.
✅Now center the transmission in the rear mount and tighten the transmission pad mounts.
✅Install the bolts in the sides of the rear mounts from the inside of the car with the self locking nuts inside the tunnel. It may be helpful to tape the nuts in the wrench to make starting the threads easier.
✅Radiator – It is a little tricky to install. It works best to begin with the upper right (passenger side of the car) mounting point first, then the lower right, followed by the upper left mount and finally the lower left mount.
✅Radiator hoses – connect and clamp
✅Overflow coolant tank – determine right place for the overflow tank drain line and install a fitting in hose. Connect the radiator overflow to the tank.
✅Alternator – connect the wiring for the alternator.
✅Vacuum pipe – connect the vacuum hose from the distributor to the carburetor.
✅Starter – attach the power cable from the starter to the starter switch.
✅Ignition Coil – attach the wiring to the coil and distributor. Connect the high tension line from the distributor.
✅Oil pressure gauge pipe/hose – connect to engine.
✅Water temperature gauge – connect capillary tube two cylinder head.
✅Heater hose from cylinder head water valve to heater – uses two 10-22 mm jubilee hose clips
✅Heater hose from heater box to copper pipe –
✅Rocker Cover – install the rocker cover.
✅Breather hose – connect the hoses and clamp
✅Driveshaft – connect and tighten bolts/nuts.
✅Refill fluids in engine, radiator and transmission – transmission requires 2 ¼ pints of Redline MT-90.
✅Remote clutch bleeder valve – connect the remote bleeder stainless steel flexible hose to the bracket on the left side of the heater box.
✅Clutch – Bleed the clutch master and then the slave cylinder. To eliminate all air, the slave cylinder piston should be held in the fully retracted position while bleeding. Do this by running out the adjustable push rod until it is pushing firmly on the clutch fork. Keep the master cylinder reservoir topped up while slowly and gently pumping the clutch size cylinder Into operating position. A power bleeder works well here.
Adjust the push rod length to give some free travel at the clutch pedal. Assure clutch is releasing fully while the vehicle is still up on jack stands. Confirm free play assuring that you can move the clutch operating lever away from the clutch slave cylinder push rod. Finger pressure against the lever should be able to move it against the pressure of the spring inside the Bell housing. Generally 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch of free play measured at the fork will be adequate. Be aware that the clutch pressure plate can be over traveled. If the clutch releases when the pedal is partway down, but then seems to reengage at full pedal down. It is being over traveled. Add free play until this condition disappears.
https://youtu.be/k11eIyfErMY?si=YUO94N5qavN61VFl
Battery ground cable to firewall – reattach.
✅Ground Strap – Attach engine to frame
✅Electric Radiator “Pusher” Fan – see Moss Motors site for directions: https://mossmotors.com/media/instructions/231-658.pdf
✅Intake and Exhaust Manifolds with gasket
✅Carburetor – install heat shield, phenolic spacer, gaskets, choke and accelerator cable. Connect fuel hose from pipe to carb. Connect the float bowl overflow hose. Connect the breather hose from the timing chain cover canister to the carb. Connect vacuum hose to distributor. Put ATF in the carb piston.
K&N Air Cleaner – Install and spray with special oil.
✅Exhaust system – install, exhaust header, exhaust pipes, and muffler.
AFR gauge – connect gauge to the O2 sensor and power.
Gasoline – partially fill fuel tank with gasoline.
Start engine!
Our first step was to install the ground strap that connects the chassis to the engine/gearbox. The strap we used was sourced from Moss Motors. We actually connected the strap to the starter motor bolt that secures the starter to the engine backplate as it is important to have a strong ground connection for the electrical draw of the starter. As with most things in this post, the details are in the Bugeye Restoration Video Episode One Hundred-three.
Ground Strap from chassis to Engine
Our next item was to install the starter motor power cable from the battery post of the starter switch to the starter motor terminal.
We then installed the oil pressure gauge pipe and hose from the gauge to the fitting on the right side of the engine block. Originally this arrangement was just copper pipe but we used a copper fitting and hose supplied by Bugeyeguys. Copper, when it gets old, also becomes brittle and can be subject to breaking and leaking. The rubber hose used in the kit helps to absorb vibration.
Oil Pressure Gauge Pipe and hose fitting kit
Oil Pressure Pipe and Hose
Next, we connected the distributor to the coil wiring. Red wire to the positive terminal on the coil (it is marked) and the black wire to the negative terminal.
Distributor to Coil Wiring
The capillary cable from the water temperature/oil pressure gauge was then connected through several clamps on the right hand engine bay valance to the cylinder head. We believe that fitting to be a 5/8″-18 thread.
Capillary Tube to Cylinder Head
The alternator wiring was then connected. The large red 8AWG wire from the starter switch is connected to one of the large terminals on the alternator. The smaller 18 gauge brown/yellow wire connects the charging warning light in the alternator to the small spade terminal on the alternator.
Alternator Wiring Connections
The heater hose from the water valve on the cylinder head was then installed and connected to the heater box matrix. This hose is pre-bent and in our case was sourced from Bugeyeguys.
Heater hose from water valve
We then moved to the clutch slave cylinder and the installation of the remote bleeder kit purchased from Rivergate Restorations. We did need to add an extra “spacer” fitting (circled in red below) at the master cylinder so that braided hose would clear the edge of the “Sebring” foot box.
Modified Clutch Fitting Assembly
The slave cylinder mounted easy enough but the upper bolt is a real pain to get to once the gearbox is in the car. We used cap screws to make the job a bit easier. A cut-off (shortened) Allen key does the trick.
We fabricated a little bracket to hold the remote bleeder and used the two LH heater box mounting screws to hold it in place. In doing so, we avoided having to make any extra holes in the chassis.
Clutch Remote Bleeder Mounting Bracket
I installed a stainless bleeder valve in the fitting that Rivergate supplied. That was wrong and it leaked! We went back to the two-piece bleeder that Rivergate had supplied and everything was fine. We were able to successfully bleed the clutch system and we had no leaks. Again, this is detailed in the accompanying video.
Correct Bleeder Assembly for Remote Clutch Bleeder
We then mounted the radiator and the 10″ electric fan to the car. This also involved completing the wiring to the fan from the toggle switch below the dashboard. Instructions for wiring and mounting the fan are provided by Moss Motors. Contrary to what we typically see, the black wire from the fan is for power and the blue wire is for ground. Hayden Fan Instructions
The radiator mounts with four 1/4″ hex bolts. It is definitely easier to mount he RH side of the radiator first as seen in the video.
Radiator and Electric Fan Installation
It was then time to mount the gasket and the intake manifold and header to the cylinder head. We also added a new polished stainless steel carb heat shield. The order or sequence of the gaskets between the intake, the heat shield, the phenolic spacer block, the carb and the air cleaner is important. The K&N air filter will be added later after initial tuning of the engine. Lastly, the HIF44 carb was added.
Intake Manifold, Header and HIF44 Installed
We made some stainless steel brackets sourced from McMaster-Carr and added a nut-sert fitting in each to hold the stainless clamps used to support the heater pipe. The original intake manifold had cast fitting for the heater pipe mounting but hose were forfeited with the new Maniflow intake.
Heater Pipe Installed
We then connected the fuel delivery hose, the carb float bowl overflow hose, the breather hose from the timing cover canister, and the vacuum hose from the carb to the distributor.
Hose connections to the HIF44 Carb
HIF 44 Carburetor (RH Side)
We added a little heat protection to the fuel delivery hose with a heat shield wrap from Techflex Thermoshield https://www.cabletiesandmore.com/thermashield-t6-wrap and secured it with four stainless steel zip ties.
Thermotec Hose Covering and Stainless Zip-ties
The coolant recovery tank we had selected did not have an overflow port. We added one by drilling a hole in the top side of the tank with an “R” drill bit. We then tapped the hole with a 1/8″-27 NPT tap and thread in a straight brass fitting and painted it black. We used some clear silicone (opaque) tubing from the radiator to the tank so that we could visually inspect coolant flow and we used some black silicone hose for the overflow.
Coolant Tank Hoses
Next, it was time to put fluids into the Bugeye!
Fluids into the Bugeye
We then installed the wiring for the AFR gauge from the interior to the oxygen sensor. We will only be using the AFR gauge for tuning and therefore it does not require a permanent wiring routing nor a placement of the gauge on or below the the dash.
Details on the forgoing are shown in this video: Bugeye Restoration Video Episode One Hundred-Three.
https://vimeo.com/1088106527/9f6138ea7f?share=copy
The following content is included:
0:00 – Engine ground strap to chassis
1:44 – Starter cable
2:12 – Oil pressure gauge pipe
2:31 – Distributor and coil wiring
2:46 – Water temperature capillary tube
3:27 – Alternator, wiring connections
4:26 – Heater hose from water valve to heater box
4:44 – Clutch slave cylinder, remote bleeder
5:53 – Clutch bleeding
6:07 – Clutch slave cylinder
7:00 – Radiator
7:50 – Radiator hoses
7:53 – Electrical radiator fan installation
8:40 – Radiator fan wiring
9:50 – Intake manifold and header with gasket
11:05 – HIF44 carburetor
12:25 – Stainless steel carburetor heat shield
12:40 – Copper heater pipe and hose
13:25 – Breather hose from timing chain cover canister to carb
13:50 – Fuel delivery hose and float bowl overflow hose
15:30 – Techflex fuel hose insulation
16:23 – Vacuum hose from carburetor to distributor
16:40 -Coolant recovery tank relief port installation
18:45 – Fluids into the car for the radiator, engine, differential, and gearbox
20:38 – Temporary wiring for the AFR gauge
We decided on a vintage look in tires for the Bugeye. We ordered the tires from Longstone Tyres in the UK. https://www.longstonetyres.co.uk/155r13-pirelli-cinturato-ca67.html They are 155 Pirelli Cinturato CA67 tires and have an aggressive-looking tread pattern. It took less than a week to have the tires shipped to us.
Pirelli Cinturato
We are mounting the tires on the 5.5″ Panasport wheels that were on the car previously. We didn’t want to take the tires and wheels to an “everyday” tire store for mounting and we were able to find a local custom shop to do the job for us. All Road Automotive in Sarasota was very accommodating and had the job done the same day we took the tires and wheels to them.
One could say that the rear brakes on the bugeye or a journey. We began with the original drum brakes that were on the 948 bugeye, and then upgraded to later MG Midget rear drum brakes with the dual piston brake cylinders. That upgrade involved, new back plates, new cylinders, new adjusters, in new springs. If you read our earlier post regarding the upgrade to the later drum brakes, you know that it wasn’t an easy job as we ended up, having to modify the back plate and the drums to avoid rubbing.
Late in the game, after expense and considerable effort, we made the decision to upgrade yet again to rear disc brakes. In researching the topic, we discovered there were several vendors selling conversion kits. Frontline in England, https://shop.frontline-cars.co.uk/parts-and-upgrades/product/17 the Bugeyeguy in Connecticut, https://bugeyeguyparts.com/products/rear-disc-brake-kit and Ol Phartz Parts in California, https://www.olphartz.com/rear-disc-brake-conversion-kits.html
After some head scratching and deliberation we decided on the kit from Steve Christensen at Ol Fartz Parts. Steve’s kit is nicely put together and uses modern brake calipers sourced from a Nissan Sentra. Considerable documentation with photographs is supplied in the kit and was very helpful in assembly.
Bugeye Restoration Video Episode Ninety-nine shows the contents of the kit and our installation.
https://vimeo.com/1087193582/c834792afd?ts=0&share=copy
0:00 – Disc brake kit selection
1:20 – Ol Phartz’s parts kit contents
6:20 – Painting components
7:18 – Removal of brake drums, hubs and backplates
12:05 – Caliper brackets installed
12:50 – Reinstall hubs, bearings, tab washers and axle nuts
14:18 – New axle gasket, “O” rings, and half shafts installed
14:30 – Brake rotors installed
14:57 – Caliper torque bracket installed
15:55 – Disk pads installed
16:05 – Spring clips and pad retainers installed
17:40 – Caliper body installed
18:40 – Brake hoses and axle brackets installed
20:15 – Handbrake rods and linkage installed
20:58 – Brake hard pipes installed to 3-way connector
This topic was covered in two previous posts:
https://valvechatter.com/?p=14379 and https://valvechatter.com/?p=13973
The time came to bleed the brake system. Bleeding brakes for the first time always seems to be a stressful situation and in our case it was no different. With the Bugeye we are using DOT 5, or silicone, brake fluid. Using silicone fluid can be somewhat controversial, but the real benefit is that it does not damage paint. This was a particular concern with the Bugeye because if the master cylinders or their fittings leak, there’s no way to avoid brake fluid in the pedal box at a minimum.
Bleeding the system began with “bench” bleeding the brake master cylinder. This is done to get any air out of the master cylinder itself before filling all the pipes with fluid. It’s really quite easy to do this and the process is shown in the Bugeye Restoration Video Episode Ninety-seven.
Bleeding the Master Cylinder
Following our successful bleeding of the master cylinder we then used a Gunson Eezibleed kit to fill the system with fluid and begin purging the air from the lines. https://www.gunson.co.uk/product/G4062/Eezibleed-Kit. The kit uses a pressurized fluid bottle connected to the master cylinder. Air pressure is used to move fluid through the system. Air pressure comes from using a tire with pressure reduced to no more than 20 pounds.
Before putting any fluid in the Eezibleed container, we connected the supplied cap for Girling master cylinders and pressurized the system to see if we could hear any air leaks. Hearing none, we filled the container with fluid and pressurize the system.
Unfortunately, we experienced several leaks throughout the car. Most could be remedied by simply tightening the fittings, a little bit more than we had previously. However, in the case of the pipe that is routed from the brake union on the right hand engine bay valance to the rear of the car, we concluded that we had improper pipe flares causing leaks and decided to remake the pipe.
Because we were eager to get the job done, we ordered 3/16″ nickel/copper brake pipe from Amazon. This turned out to be a mistake. The walls of the pipe were thinner than the pipe we had previously ordered from Fedhill. Fedhill is the go-to source for brake pipe and fittings used on vintage British cars. The thinner walls on the Amazon pipe prevented making quality flares. So, we ordered a 25′ roll of pip from Fedhill and waited for delivery by the USPS. For the pipe running from the union to the rear of the car, the flare at the union should be a bubble flare. The flare at the other end of the pipe which connects to the Goodridge flex hose at the axle, requires a double flare. In fact, each of the pipe flares (3) joining with a flex hose require the double flare. All other flares are bubble flares. Making the pipe flares and installing the new pipe in the car is shown in the Episode Ninety-seven Video.
https://vimeo.com/1087163945/947d5a54b9?ts=0&share=copy
0:00 – Bench bleeding the brake master cylinder
2:10 – Brake pipe purchase information
4:13 – Brake pipe flares: bubble and double flares
We have decided to change gears and install disc brakes on the rear of the car so we will pick up with the completion of the bleeding of the brake system following the installation of the new rear brakes.
Twenty years ago we installed a Maniflow exhaust system on the Bugeye. It was purchased from MiniMania. We were always happy with the sound of the car so we opted for another Maniflow system with this new version of the Bugeye. The header was the same one we had used previously we simply updated the finish opting for the Jet-Hot ceramic coating.
The exhaust pipes, mounting hardware and the muffler were sourced directly from Maniflow in the U.K. https://www.maniflow.co.uk/index.php?view=product&from=207&product=1260. The parts come from Maniflow painted in their signature dark metallic green paint. We opted to paint over the green with a high temperature Rustoleum satin black spray paint.
We were hoping to be able to use one of the left rear bumper mounting bolts for the rear mount of the muffler but we weren’t happy with the fit. In fact, we weren’t happy with the rear muffler at all. Perhaps on the MG midget or square body Sprite, the muffler is fine but on the Bugeye the muffler seems to hang to low and is very obvious from the rear of the car. Consequently, we decided to reuse the Maniflow silencer we already had. We cleaned it up, painted it and mounted it to the car. We did end up drilling an extra hole in the trunk floor for the rubber mounting bobbin to secure the silencer.
The video below shows the installation of the exhaust system in the car.
Bugeye Restoration Video Episode One Hundred-Four: https://vimeo.com/1082272507/6be54040aa?share=copy
John and Molly came over to assist in the “Big Lift,” the installation of the engine and gearbox into the car. This has been a long time coming. As a reminder, we are installing the 1275 engine along with a Datsun 210 5-speed gearbox. The following image shows the same procedure twenty years go!
Engine Install 2005
Unfortunately, many have reported that the heater plenum needs to be “bashed” upward to provide clearance for the entry of the gearbox. We had hoped that we could avoid this step if we were very careful and took our time, but it was not to be. In the end we had to “adjust” the plenum to make room. That process is shown in the accompanying video.
We put together a check list of items that combines preparation steps along with necessary connections to get the engine in and then make it ready to start.
Remove Bonnet – struts and hinges.take the strut off first. before removing the bonnet hinges disconnect the Deutsch connector and the spade connector at the horn.
Jack Stands – place the car on jack stands.
Engine Hoist Leveler – Remove rocker cover and install leveler on engine.
Engine Mounts – Move rubber buffer from engine stand to the car mount.
Starter – Attach the power cable to the starter that will connect to the starter switch later in the process.
Battery Ground cable to firewall – disconnect during engine install.
Engine fan – install six blade fan and spacer. Install fan belt and check tension.
Crossbar protector – put the custom-made sheet metal protector over the steering rack crossbar to avoid damaging the paint.
Remove fluids – from engine, radiator and transmission
Timing marks – make sure these are visible on the pulley before installing the engine.
Driveshaft Prop – Grease the yoke and the transmission splines.
Slave cylinder – check threads of the two mounting bolts, should be metric. The threads of the push rod extend beyond the arm by approximately one half inch (6-8 threads showing). The excess on the spacing shim goes to the front of the engine. Find the slightly shortened Allen key for the new cap screws.
Engine Mounts – Install the left-hand engine mount onto the chassis and leave it loose. Install the right hand engine mount onto the engine and leave it loose.
Header – Set the exhaust header in place so that it will be positioned to install once the engine is in place.
Engine/transmission install with engine hoist – Check to see if the heater plenum will require modification. Before the assembly is all the way home push the driveshaft yoke into the rear of the transmission.
Transmission mount – install the ⅜” – 24 x 3 ½” bolts through the chassis and into the mount and tighten. Next, tighten the front engine mounts. Now center the transmission in the rear mount and tighten the transmission pad mounts. Install the bolts in the sides of the rear mounts from the inside of the car with the self locking nuts inside the tunnel. It may be helpful to tape the nuts in the wrench to make starting the threads easier.
Radiator – It is a little tricky to install. It works best to begin with the upper right (passenger side of the car) mounting point first, then the lower right, followed by the upper left mount and finally the lower left mount.
Radiator hoses – connect and clamp
Overflow coolant tank – determine right place for the overflow tank drain line and install a fitting in hose. Connect the radiator overflow to the tank.
Alternator – connect the wiring for the alternator.
Vacuum Pipe – connect the vacuum hose from the distributor to the carburetor.
Starter – attach the power cable from the starter to the starter switch.
Ignition Coil – attach the wiring to the coil and distributor. Connect the high tension line from the distributor.
Oil pressure gauge pipe/hose – connect to engine.
Water temperature gauge – connect capillary tube two cylinder head.
Rocker Cover – install the rocker cover.
Breather hose – connect the hoses and clamp
Driveshaft – connect and tighten bolts/nuts.
Refill fluids in engine, radiator and transmission – transmission requires 2 ¼ pints of Redline MT-90.
Clutch – Bleed the clutch master and then the slave cylinder. To eliminate all air, the slave cylinder piston should be held in the fully retracted position while bleeding. Do this by running out the adjustable push rod until it is pushing firmly on the clutch fork. Keep the master cylinder reservoir topped up while slowly and gently pumping the clutch size cylinder Into operating position. A power bleeder works well here.
Adjust the push rod length to give some free travel at the clutch pedal. Assure clutch is releasing fully while the vehicle is still up on jack stands. Confirm free play assuring that you can move the clutch operating lever away from the clutch slave cylinder push rod. Finger pressure against the lever should be able to move it against the pressure of the spring inside the Bell housing. Generally 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch of free play measured at the fork will be adequate. Be aware that the clutch pressure plate can be over traveled. If the clutch releases when the pedal is partway down, but then seems to reengage at full pedal down. It is being over traveled. Add free play until this condition disappears.
https://youtu.be/k11eIyfErMY?si=YUO94N5qavN61VFl
Battery ground cable to firewall – reattach.
Ground Strap – Attach engine to frame
Intake and Exhaust Manifolds with gasket – brass long nuts
Carburetor – install heat shield, phenolic spacer, choke and accelerator cable. Connect fuel hose from pipe to carb. Connect vacuum hose to distributor. Put ATF in the carb piston. Connect carb drain hose.
K&N Air Cleaner – Install and spray with special oil.
Heater hoses – attach both and clamp
Exhaust system – install, exhaust header, exhaust pipes, and muffler.
AFR gauge – connect gauge to the O2 sensor and power.
Gasoline – partially fill fuel tank with gasoline.
Battery – reconnect the battery ground cable to the firewall.
Start engine!
These things always take longer than expected, or at least hoped! However, at the end of the day, all that is important is that you got the “thing” in. Well, it was about the end of the day and we did get it in!
We did install the new slave cylinder sourced from Will Perry at Rivergate before the engine went into the car. Once the engine is installed there is not much room between the gearbox and the frame making it a tight squeeze to install the slave cylinder. We are also using a remote bleeder with a flexible hose.
Slave cylinder install
Bugeye Restoration Video Episode One Hundred-One shows the process involved in the installation of the engine and gearbox as well as the short-throw gear shifter sourced from Gerard Chateauvieux at Gerard’s Garage.
https://vimeo.com/1076516667/7bc5103b4c?share=copy
Additional information about Gerard’s shifter is provided in another post: https://valvechatter.com/?p=13520
Bugeye Restoration Video Episode One Hundred-Three shows the process involved in making the various connections required to prepare the engine to start and the gearbox to operate properly. This video will be posted when complete.