Bonnet Fixings – Hinges, Gas Struts and Tie-down Brackets

The Front-tilt Bonnet Hinges

The Bugyeye has had a front tilt hinge mechanism installed for some time. We originally used the kit sold by Mini-Mania.

Mini-Mania Hinge Kit

The front hinge concept has become very popular because it provides much better access to the engine bay than the original rear hinge set-up. Today, front hinge kits are sold by many of the usual vendors such as BugeyeGuys, and Speedwell Engineering. Most are based on the innovation and work done by Gerard Chateauvieux who sold his kit through Gerard’s Garage. There have also been many approaches to latching or anchoring the bonnet to the chassis. Some have also installed gas struts to assist and control the process of opening and closing the bonnet. 

In anticipation of using both a front hinge kit and gas struts, we made a few modifications to the Bugeye front bonnet to strengthen the stress points, particularly around the radiator air box. We wanted to accomplish these changes prior to paint and we were successful. We first fashioned a couple of gussets, drilled them for plug welds, primed them with weld-through primer and welded them in place on both sides of the bonnet. 

Gas Strut Gusset

Primered Gusset

Gusset welded in place on bonnet

We also used the little brackets that came with the Mini-Mania hinge kit to strengthen the air box by riveting the bracket to the side of the headlight bucket rim. Four rivets were used with each bracket. As an added bonus, these brackets have holes that can be used to attach a range-of-motion limiter cable.

Mini-Mania bracket

After considering various front hinge kits for the Bugeye bonnet we decided to go with the hinges made by Erick Moser of Q1 Classic Engineering. Erick makes his hinges from high grade aluminum and supplies delrin washers/fittings and fasteners with his kit. What really appealed about Erick’s kit is that the hinges mount without having to drill additional mounting holes in the body or cutting the threaded bushings on the frame rails. We powder coated the components in satin black and substituted stainless hardware.

Q1 Classic Engineering Bonnet Hinge Kit

We decided to make some small reinforcing plates of 1/8″ steel to add support at the upper mounting point of the hinge. At that point the securing bolt only goes through the radiator shroud sheet metal so the extra “beef” should be helpful. We painted these black and installed them with the kit.

Getting the bonnet hinges to work effectively involved some trial and error. We ended up having to modify the hinge plates and the sliders, but Erick was great and assisted in making the necessary modifications.

Template for Modified Hinge Plate

We ended up with a very functional and good looking bit of kit. We will paint or powder coat the modified hinges when we remove the bonnet to install the motor.

Q1 Classic Engineering Bonnet Hinges

Hinge Spacer Block 1″ Wide

We also added gas struts purchased from Amazon. The struts we installed are 16″ long. We tried both 28 lb. and 35 lb. struts and found the 28 lb. units to work the best. The heavier struts tended to pull the rear edge of the bonnet way from the cowl.

Gas Struts 16″ 28 Lbs

The front tie-down brackets/tow hooks were also purchased from Q1 Classic Engineering. Nicely made and heavy duty. We painted them and installed between the hinge plates and the chassis rails.

Q1 Classic Engineering Tie Down Brackets

Q1 Classic Engineering Tie Down Brackets Installed

Mounting of the bonnet hinges, gas struts and the toe down brackets is shown in Bugeye Restoration Video Episode Ninety-four:

https://vimeo.com/1043279717/37ec3901e6?share=copy

 

Chapter 35 Restoration Assembly, Week Two 12/24/2006

Because of family schedules we celebrated Christmas (gift giving) on Christmas Eve this year, so Monday, Christmas afternoon was devoted to garage work on the Healey. I continued with the installation of the Dynamat Extreme and finished the right side pedal assembly box. I will wait until a little later to finish the dynamat in the interior. The blanking plates were next: one plate with screw clip nuts for the right side master cylinders, 2 plates to cover the steering shaft holes for RHD (one in engine compartment and one in the interior), and finally two plates with the hole for the steering shaft grommet on the left side of the car for LHD cars (again one in the engine compartment and one in the interior). I painted all the flat washers and screw heads for the plate installations.

Blanking Plate 1

I then fastened each of the hot air outlet interior door assemblies and thebulkhead flange bezel. Followed by the fuse block, the double clip for the clutch and brake lines from the masters to the fluid reservoir, the flasher canister and the new flasher relay.

Bulkhead Flange Bezel

 

Vent Doors

Fuse Block and Oil Gauge Line

Well, it is a new day and I am ready for some new challenges. I will get started on the battery cable from British Car Specialists and the wiring harness from British Wiring, Inc. I pushed the harness through the firewall grommet from the interior and separated the strands. I decided to focus on the under car runs first, so after jacking up the car on stands I installed the harness wire that goes to the boot for the fuel pump, fuel sender and rear lights. I skipped the clip attachment to the bump box until I have the rear axle in place.

Wiring Harness 4

Wiring Harness 5

Next I shifted my attention to the battery cable. I got it in place and quit for the day. Tomorrow will be dedicated to connecting the harness under the bonnet and in the boot.

Battery Cable 1

Battery Cable to Starter Solenoid

Harness left side

Wednesday was a good day. I started with the harness on the left side of the car. I secured the harness in the engine compartment with the appropriate zinc fastening clips and connected the wires to the fuse block, the flasher canister, connected and then threaded the dip switch mini-harness through the firewall, connected and threaded the mini-harness for the wiper motor through the firewall, connected the eight wires to the flasher relay box, and connected the front lamp pigtails and routed the harness through the front of the car.

Fuse Block & flasher

Flasher relay

Then I shifted to the right side of the wiring harness. I modified the voltage regulator box to accommodate wiring for an alternator. This is done by cutting out the connectors in the back of the box and then connecting the three brown wires to the same post, and the two yellow wires together to another post.

Harness front view

I then connected the harness to the starter solenoid, and routed the wire down the right side support. Feeders to the ignition, alternator, brake switch, and heater blower route off of the primary harness.

Voltage Box

Harness Right Side

Solenoid Wiring_2

I finished the afternoon installing the battery master switch in the boot. I heard complaints from too many about the original switch so I changed to a modern variant and modified it to fit in the original housing.

Battery Master Switch

Boot Battery Cables

Boot Wiring

I then connected the ground strap, added a few rubber grommets, and routed the wiring to the back of the carwhere a rear lighting harness was connected and fastened with two zinc clips. All-in-all it was a productive day!

Back to the garage the next day, I installed my modified horn brackets and the horns. These are not the proper horns, but at least I got them painted the right color. I used Duplicolor E8800957 “Seattle Silver,” a Honda color, I believe.

horn brackets red LH

horn brackets red RH

Horn painted

They used metric 7mm bolts. Then I installed the little bracket for the bonnet release, the remote control rod support bracket as well as the hydraulic fluid reservoir bracket.

bonnet release rod bracket

fluid reservoir bracket

The bonnet hinges were the next items to install. I greased the clevis pins and used stainless split pins.

Bonnet Hinge

Two big items in my storage bins were the Smiths heater blower and the Cape International interior heater I will be using to upgrade the heating system in the car. The Cape unit, in addition to improved heating efficiency also has a two speed fan. More details are available in the Heating/Cooling section of the website. I went ahead and installed these two items just to make a dent in my storage container!

heater blower 1

Cape heater 2

One thing I wanted to get done early in assembly before tiny spaces got crowded was the installation of the wiper motor assembly rubber grommets. These are a pain to get in, but a little liquid dish soap and muscle did the trick.

Wiper Motor grommets