Chapter 67 Week Thirty-Seven August 27, 2007

I cleaned up the Toyota W57 5 speed gearbox that I will be using with my Smitty conversion kit and painted it. Attaching the Smitty bellhousing makes it easy to stand the gearbox on end to clean and paint.

Toyota gearbox 2

Toyota gearbox 4

I used some 3M black rope caulk to seal the edges of the windscreen frame and then installed the painted windscreen posts to the frame with the 8 chrome #10 screws. The toggle clamp retaining studs were then also attached.

windscreen mounting

Assembled windscreen

I returned to the boot lid and installed the boot lock with four flat head phillips, 1/4” x 3/4” screws. The lock was adjusted at this point as far down as allowed. Next was the boot rubber seal that is glued to the lid. The seal came from British Car Specialists and seems to be pretty close to original. I glued it with 3m black weatherstripping adhesive. I applied the adhesive to the lid and the gasket in approximately 6-8” sections, waited for it to get tacky, pressed together and then moved to the next section. The seal ends were glued together just below the lock.

Boot Seal

Boot Lock and Seal

There are six #10 flat head machine screws that fasten the rear shroud to the superstructure. I installed the six through the back of the boot opening in the shroud.

Chapter 66 Week Thirty-Six August 20, 2007

I went out to visit Jack at Coach Works and check on the progress of the motor assembly. I was pleased to find that he had mounted the spin-on oil filter, the alternator with the bracketing kit from Hendrix Wire Wheel (made by Don Lenschow), the rebuilt original water pump and pulley from World Wide Auto, the tach drive, the harmonic balancer and crank pulley, the oil feed line, the drain valve, the head gasket and Denis Welch aluminum head, the chain tensioner and timing chain, the timing chain cover, the tappet covers and the aluminum oil sump from British Parts Northwest. The BPN aluminum oil sump bolted right on with no adjustment required of the oil strainer or drain pipes.

Spin On Oil Filter

Water Pump and Alternator

Tach Drive

Coolant Drain Valve

Tappet Covers

I failed to mention in earlier posts that I had ordered and received a new aluminum head with valves, springs and etc. from Dennis Welch Motosport. I ordered the “Fast Road” version. Yes, it did make me happy

A present for myself!

Aluminum Head Tech Sheet

You got it!

New Studs

I got over my fear of touching the rear shroud! I placed it on the superstructure and bolted it on through the two steel threaded mounting plates near the front of the shroud. I then clamped the bottom lip in the rear

Fitting Rear Shroud

Fitting Rear Shroud 4

I mounted the rear reflectors that I had converted to lamps Reflector to Light Conversion.pdf, or, Reflector conversion.pdf and the rear lights/turn signals.

Rear Lights

Rear Lights 2

I discovered one reality the hard way. On the left turn signal lamp you have a red wire, a white with purple wire, and a black wire (the right lamp is the same except the white wire has a brown stripe in it rather than purple). These red and white wires must go to their proper terminals or you won’t end up with the turn signals functioning properly. I also learned that those chrome trim rings can be a pain to install in the rubber lamp boots! Patience is required along with tools like a wooden cuticle tool and dental picks. I am sure they had those on the assembly line.

After installing the lights, I put the tenax studs in place for the soft top and tonneau. I used a leather washer against the car paint and then a nylon washer to lift the stud away from the paint slightly.

Tenax Stud

Next, I installed the fuel tank filler pipe and the aluminum Aston flip-top fuel cap. Not original, but I sure think it adds a nice touch!

Fuel Filler Pipe Joint

Aston Fuel Filler Cap 3

 There are three rubber buffers that are inserted through the rear shroud and the frame hoop to help set the height of the boot lid on the shroud.

Boot Lid Rubber Buffers

I am going to wait another week or two to install the boot lid on the car, but I went ahead and attached the locking boot handle, the “Austin Healey” script badge and the “3000 Flash”. I also attached the prop rod rubber clip and the lock. I purchased stainless prop rods and prop rod stay brackets for the boot lid and bonnet from Wicker’s Paint and Body Shop (Unfortunately, no longer in business).

Boot Lid Hardware

Stainless Prop Rod

Prop Rod catch

Prop rod stay bracket 2

Chapter 65 Week Thirty-Five August 13, 2007

Rear shroud and boot lid.

Jeremy returned from vacation and painted the rear shroud and boot lid. I picked them up and they do look beautiful. I am reminded of that feeling I had when he unloaded the frame and superstructure from his trailer at the house. I am afraid to touch anything for fear of damaging the paint. As before, I suppose with time I will get over it.