Bonnet Catch/Latch

Bonnet Catch/Latch

Control Wire, Complete, Operating Bonnet Lock

My original control wire plastic cable casing was in pretty bad shape so I replaced it with a new one from SNG Barratt. It is very close to the original although the cable casing did have to be trimmed a few inches.  I cleaned up the components including the adjuster, for bonnet lock control; the Abutment, for cable adjuster; the plain washer, the shakeproof washer under the nut, and the 1/4″ -28 nut. These items were then zinc plated. This is an image of the components after plating:

Bonnet Lock Control Wire Abutment and Adjuster

Bonnet Lock Control Wire Abutment and Adjuster

Bonnet Catch Plate, Striker Plate, Base Plate, Bonnet Latch and Return Spring

These components of the bonnet catch assembly were cleaned and zinc plated. Two spacing bushes fitted between the catch and latch were also cleaned.

New Zinc Finish Bonnet Catch Components

New Zinc Finish Bonnet Catch Components

These are the assembled components:

Assembled Bonnet Catch

Assembled Bonnet Catch

Bonnet Catch

Bonnet Catch

Bonnet Catch

Bonnet Catch

This is what the assembly looks like when mounted to the vehicle:

Bonnet Catch/Release Assembly

Bonnet Catch/Release Assembly

Bonnet Catch/Release Assembly

Bonnet Catch/Release Assembly

This image shows the bonnet release remote control cable pull knob mounted below the RH side of the dash. Not very convenient for the LH drive American market!

Remote Control Bonnet Release Cable Knob under dash

Remote Control Bonnet Release Cable Knob under dash

This view of the RH side of the engine bay valence shows the routing of the remote control cable to the front of the car.

Remote Control Bonnet Release Cable on Valance

Remote Control Bonnet Release Cable on Valance

I chromed the the safety latch that is attached to the Bonnet because the paint never seems to hold up on these items.Chromed Bonnet Safety Catch

The spring and rod that hold the safety latch to its mount were cleaned and zinc plated.

New Zinc Finish Bonnet Latch Components

New Zinc Finish Bonnet Latch Components

 

Body Fittings

Body Fittings

Finishers on “A” Posts

The original finishers were in excellent condition. I had both rechromed for the project. Though two of the tabs have holes in them as if for screws, no screws are used for installation. The tabs are tightly bent over the posts and the finishers are glued to the post.

Finishers on "A" Post New Chrome

Finishers on “A” Post New Chrome

Finishers on the Center “B” Posts

These finishers were also in very good condition and were rechromed for use in the restoration.

Finishers for B/C Posts New Chrome

Finishers for B/C Posts New Chrome

Chrome Bead Upper and Lower for B/C Posts

I had these little pieces of Bead rechromed for installation on the car.

Chrome Bead for Upper and Lower for B/C Posts

Chrome Bead for Upper and Lower for B/C Posts

Joint Piece at Centre of Drip Moulding Finishers

These two little pieces were in good shape so I simply cleaned and polished them. They are held in place by two chrome #4 flat head 1/4″ self tapping screws.

Joint Piece at Centre of Drip Moulding Finishers

Joint Piece at Centre of Drip Moulding Finishers

Joint Piece for Chromium Finisher Around Backlight Glass

These were also in good condition so I cleaned and polished them for future use. A silicone adhesive was used to hold these in place.

Joint Piece for Chromium Finisher Around BackLight Glass

Joint Piece for Chromium Finisher Around BackLight Glass

Interior Mirror Assembly on Windscreen Header Panel

While the rearview mirror appears to be in good enough condition to restore rather than replace, I did have to purchase a new mounting bracket and locking nut. The threads on the originals were completely stripped. I had the post rechromed and whether as a result of the rechroming or the new bracket and nut having slightly different dimensions, the post would not slide in the bracket. I very carefully drilled out the nut and bracket with a 9/32″ drill bit and the post now slides and locks as it should.

As it turns out, most of the mounting bracket is covered by the roof liner when installed so it will need to be installed prior to the roof liner going in the car. The image below shows the proper installation.

Before reassembling the mirror I need to have the glass resilvered.

Interior Mirror Mounting Bracket, Post and Locking Nut

Interior Mirror Mounting Bracket, Post and Locking Nut

Mirror Mounting Bracket Installed

Mirror Mounting Bracket Installed

Sun Visor Friction Pivot Assembly

I disassembled the sun visors pulling out the friction rod for rechroming.

Sun Visor Friction Pivot Assembly Rechromed

Sun Visor Friction Pivot Assembly Rechromed

Remote Control Wire and Bonnet Bonnet Lock Assembly

Details located at: https://valvechatter.com/?cat=677

Adjuster & Abutment

Adjuster & Abutment

Steering Column, Lower Mounting Assembly

I media blasted the mounting assembly and prepared it for fresh paint:

Steering Column Lower Mounting Assembly

Steering Column Lower Mounting Assembly

Steering Column Lower Mounting Assembly Painted

Steering Column Lower Mounting Assembly Painted

Lower Steering Column Bracket Installed

Lower Steering Column Bracket Installed

Interior Front Finisher Panel Assembly Mounting Bracket

This little bracket mounts on top of the gearbox cover with four machine screws. The Radio Front Finisher Panel mounts to it with a 1/4″ – 28 x 1″ hex head bolt and shakeproof washer. The bracket is affixed to the gearbox cover with four #8 x 1/4″ machine screws.

Mounting Bracket to Gearbox

Mounting Bracket Painted

Gearbox Cover

After degreasing and cleaning the cover I media blasted it. While the cover has sen better days, it is functional and can still be used. I did a trial fitting of the cover with new hardware including eleven special washers, eleven, stainless steel 14 x 3/4″ pan head phillips head self-tapping screws and eleven spire nuts or J-Style slip-on nuts. The original screws were slotted.

To ease access, I assume for a clutch replacement, the sheet metal around the gearbox had been cut, but John Stefanik was able to get it all welded back together. There was originally a “tar paper” gasket around the outside edge of the tunnel. I intend to use Dynamat Extreme for that purpose upon final assembly.

Repaired Gearbox Tunnel

Repaired Gearbox Tunnel

Gearbox Cover Special Washer Sheet Metal Screw and J Style Slip-on Nut

Gearbox Cover Special Washer Sheet Metal Screw and J Style Slip-on Nut

Gearbox Cover Installed

Gearbox Cover Installed

Gearbox Cover Installed

Gearbox Cover Installed

 Grille Assembly in Front Finisher Panel

I had the this radio speaker grille rechromed and it came out quite well!

Grill Assembly in Front Finisher Panel New Chrome

Grill Assembly in Front Finisher Panel New Chrome

 

Cover, On Trunk Floor, Giving Access to Fuel Gauge Unit

This little piece may have been the rustiest single component on the car. While not perfect, I was able to bring it back to life! Here are the before and after images:

Fuel Gauge Cover

Fuel Gauge Cover

These are a few images of work along the way. First rust remover and body prep and then body filler:

Cover

Cover Underside

Cover with Filler

The little strap for the cover was too far gone, so I made a new one with some 26 gauge stock and riveted it to the cover.

Spare Wheel Clamp Assembly

This device screws into a threaded plate in the spare wheel cavity in the boot to secure the spare tire. It was badly rusted but I media basted and painted with POR 15 making it serviceable.

Painted Spare Wheel Clamp Assembly

Painted Spare Wheel Clamp Assembly

 

Rubber Buffer, At Front Corners, For Bonnet Stop

I replaced the bolt and nut as well as installing new rubber stops on the bolt:

Bonnet Rubber Buffers

Bonnet Rubber Buffers

Door Filler Pieces on the Shut Face Panel

Each door has a small aluminum filler piece painted body color that is supported by a block of hardwood held together with two #4 chrome oval top wood screws in each. In my case the two rear filler pieces used 3/4″ screws while the front pieces used 1/2″ screws. Interestingly the parts manual calls for the wood packing on the front doors to be plywood and hardwood is used on the rear doors. Go figure! Modern plywood is not as wide as it was back in the sixties, so to get the proper width, I used solid wood for all four.  It appears that the pieces were painted while mounted on the car, but I cannot be sure since my car has been resprayed.

RH Front Door Filler Piece On the Shut Face Panel

RH Front Door Filler Piece On the Shut Face Panel

RH Rear

LH Front

LH Rear

 

Filler Pieces, On Shut Face Panel at Waist Level of Doors with New Wood Packing

Filler Pieces, On Shut Face Panel at Waist Level of Doors with New Wood Packing

Lower Radiator Grille Fixing Plate

There is a small fixing plate at the bottom of the center vane of the radiator grille. I media blasted this piece and will have it zinc plated.

Fixing Plate at Bottom of Center Vane of the Radiator Grille

Fixing Plate at Bottom of Center Vane of the Radiator Grille

 

Rezinced Fixing Plate at Bottom of Center Vane of the Radiator Grille

Rezinced Fixing Plate at Bottom of Center Vane of the Radiator Grille

Jack Retaining Clip

This little clip helps secure the Jack in the boot of the car.

Rezinced Jack Retaining Clip

Rezinced Jack Retaining Clip

 

Trunk Lid Lock

The original lock assembly including the “Lock, complete, for Trunk lid”, and the “Striker Assembly for the Trunk Lid Lock”  were functional and in reasonably good shape. I media blasted both of the components and primed with self-etching primer for painting body color at a later date. The lock is secured to the floor pan of the trunk with four fillister-head slotted machine screws 10 – 32 x 1/2″ into captive nuts. There is a rubber sleeve or seal that fits around the lock. It was also in reasonably good shape and will be reused. The Trunk Lid Striker is secured to the trunk lid with four 1/4″ -28 x 5/8″ hex head bolts with flat and shakeproof washers.

Trunk Lid Lock with Striker Assembly

Trunk Lid Lock with Striker Assembly

 

Door Handles and Locks

Door Handles and Locks

Keyless Entry or Remote Control Door Locks

I am installing a keyless entry system with central locking activated either by the front door handles (exterior or interior) or by a battery operated key fob. Details regarding the system may be found in the “Remote Control Door Locks” post in my web site: https://valvechatter.com/?p=9205.

This post will include the mechanical components of the door locking system. This image from the MK2 Service Manual provides a nice schematic of he parts used in the locking system:

MK2 Door Lock Mechanism

 

Outside Door Handles

I am using the original outside door handles, but each was rechromed. I cleaned each of the operating lever assemblies and greased each push button shaft with white lithium grease. 

Outside Door Handles with Operating Lever Assemblies

Outside Door Handles with Operating Lever Assemblies

Door Handle Lock Cylinders

The face of one of the lock cylinders was mangled from use so I decided to replace both cylinders with new units from SNG Barratt. The Service Manual indicates that only oil should be used to lubricate the the private lock cylinders, and recommends once a month. Grease is never to be used.

New Front Door Lock Cylinders and Keys

New Front Door Lock Cylinders and Keys

Lock Assemblies for Doors

I chose not to rechrome the lock assemblies, or lock cases as they are called in the Service Manual, primarily because they are not easy to take apart given that they are riveted together. While the chrome finish is not perfect on the locks, I think it will be good enough. I cleaned and lubricated each lock and polished the chrome. New chrome screws will be used. There is a small hole located at the top of each lock case (“T” in the schematic above) into which a few drops of thin machine oil should be introduced one a month.

Lock Assemblies for Doors

Lock Assemblies for Doors

 

Inside Door handles and Handles for Window Regulators

I am using the original inside door handles, but each was rechromed.

Inside Handles for Doors and Window Regulator Handles Rechromed

Inside Handles for Doors and Window Regulator Handles Rechromed

Door Lock Strikers

As with the locks, I choose not to rechrome the strikers. I cleaned and polished each. Each striker had a shim. The shims were cleaned and cad plated. New chrome screws will be used. Each Striker is mounted to the door with three chrome pozi-drive oval head 1/4″x28 x 1-1/4″ screws. 

Strikers for Door Locks

Strikers for Door Locks

Locking Mechanism Installation

First, all four exterior door handles are installed on the doors. Each handle has two #10-32 mounting studs with a flat washer, shakeproof washer and nut. The front of the handles had what appeared to be leather or fiber pads between the handle and the door when I removed them from the car. I replaced these with neoprene pads that I cut to shape. Once finally mounted, these can be cut to shape with a sharp razor knife.

Exterior Door handle with Neoprene Cushion

Then the base plate assemblies are attached to the handles. These assemblies are marked LH and RH. As explained in my “Remote Control Door Locks” post referenced earlier, the Connecting Links for each door lock are modified for the operation of my keyless entry system modification. I will not explain further in this post. 

LH Lock Base-Plate Assembly

RH Lock Base Plate Assembly Orientation on the Door Handle

In the poor photo below, the Base-Plate Assembly can be seen and its two #10-32 x 1″ mounting screws can accessed through the door aperture. These two screws attach the Assembly to the exterior door handle.

Door Lock Base Plate Assembly Viewed Through Aperture

As the Service Manual indicates, ” the appropriate assembly should be held in position inside the door panel and the clearance between the push button plunger and the (“O” in the schematic) and the lock contractor (P) checked through the aperture in the inner door panel. The clearance should be 1/32″. To adjust, release the lock-nut and screw the plunger bolt in or out as required and retighten the lock nut.”

Jag MK2 Lock Plunger Mechanism

I apologize for the confusion in nomenclature, but Jaguar calls the mechanical device below the “remote control.”

Rear Door Remote Controls with Lock Case Assemblies to the Left

The Service Manual directs that the remote controls are to be installed to the door and connected to the lock case assemblies while in the locked position. This is accomplished with split pins on the front remote controls and with a small piece of steel dowel on the rear doors. The images below show the front and rear remote controls installed on the doors.

Lock Remote Control Installation on Front Door

LH Rear Door Window Regulator Mount and Lock remote Control

Spire Nuts for Door Lock Remote Controls Installed

Circlip Connecting Remote Control Lock to the Lock Case Assembly

Lock Case Assembly with Four Mounting Screws

The lock Case Assembly is secured to the door with four chrome oval head phillips #10-32 x 3/4″ machine screws.

I replaced the original spire nuts and rubber grommets on each door with new items.

 

Bumpers

Bumpers

Front Bumper

The front bumper is secured to the frame with two inner and two outer brackets and two angle brackets at the ends of the bumper. I media blasted these brackets and painted them with POR-15.

Outer Bumper Brackets with Angle Brackets

Outer Bumper Brackets with Angle Brackets

Front Bumper to Body Inner Brackets

Front Bumper to Body Inner Brackets

The bumpers were straightened and chromed. The over riders had some small dents. They were repaired and chromed as well. I painted the back side of the over riders with silver POR-15 rust treatment/paint. The overriders were mounted to the bumper with a special 3/8″- 16 round head bolt that fits through a rectangular opening in the over rider bracket and is secured with a spire nut.  I used new fasteners. Each over rider had a rubber beading seal one each vertical side. These were glued to the over rider with 3M black trim adhesive and then the over rider was bolted to the bumper. 3M Adhesive Cleaner was used to remove excessive black adhesive from the seals.

Front and Rear Over Riders with POR15 PaintFront and Rear Over Riders with POR15 Paint

3M Adhesive Remover

3M Adhesive Remover

Front Bumper with Over Rider and Rubber Seals

Front Bumper with Over Rider and Rubber Seals

I then assembled the front bumper mounting brackets to the bumper. All new bolts, and washers were used:

Front Bumper with all Mounting Brackets and Hardware

Front Bumper with all Mounting Brackets and Hardware

Front Bumper with all Mounting Brackets and Hardware

Front Bumper with all Mounting Brackets and Hardware

Side Mounting Brackets

Side Mounting Brackets

RH side Mounting Brackets

RH side Mounting Brackets

Rear Bumper and Mounts

I ordered two new brackets, for outer mounting of rear bumper with new fasteners and four rubber bumper mounts. These came with exposed unpainted metal so I primed and painted them to avoid rust in the future.

Rear Bumper Mounts

Rear Bumper Mounts

 

Rear Over Rider Rubber Beading

Rear Over Rider Rubber Beading

Rear Bumper with Over Riders and Rubber Beading Installed

Rear Bumper with Over Riders and Rubber Beading Installed

Rear Bumper Disc Brake Emblem

A round emblem is located in the center of the rear bumper signifying the four wheel disc brakes which was quite unusual at the time. I had the emblem rechromed and I painted the Triangle and the letters red as was original.

Rear Bumper Disc Brake Emblem

Rear Bumper Disc Brake Emblem

Painted Disc Brake Emblem for Rear Bumper

Painted Disc Brake Emblem for Rear Bumper

The Emblem is curved to fit the curvature of the rear bumper and is mounted with a flat and shake proof washer and nut:

Disc Brake Emblem for Rear Bumper

Disc Brake Emblem for Rear Bumper

Trial Fitting Rear Bumper

I cleaned the surfaces around the rear bumper mounts, painted the area with primer and installed the bumper mounts so that the bumper could be checked for fit and alignment. This would typically be done BEFORE chroming but circumstances prevented the normal process from occurring. All new bumper mounts and fasteners were used.

LH Rear Bumper Mounts

 

 

 

Radiator Grille

Radiator Grille

The Jaguar grille along with the bonnet-mounted Leaper is iconic. The two symbolize the visual image of Jaguar.

I had my grille and center vane rechromed. The stud on the lower mount broke when I disassembled the car. The fix for that problem is described below. I also have a few questions about the washers on the studs used to mount the grille to the front of the car. I am not sure if they are located in their original positions or not. I will do a bit more research before installing. A cup washer is used for the top center mounting. Two folded oval washers are used on the upper side studs and rectangular “strip washers” with mounting holes are used for the lower two side studs and the lower center stud.

Otherwise, the assembly came out quite nicely. A new grille badge was installed in the center vane. The original spring clip and screws were used to mount the badge and then to secure the center vane to the grille. The images below show the assembly.

Radiator Grille Badge Installed

Radiator Grille Badge Installed

Radiator Grille Rear Side with Center Vane Mounting Hardware

Radiator Grille Rear Side with Center Vane Mounting Hardware

Radiator Grille Center Vane with Badge

Radiator Grille Center Vane with Badge

Radiator Grill Assembled

Radiator Grill Assembled

Radiator Grille Rear Side with Mounting Hardware

Radiator Grille Rear Side with Mounting Hardware

Radiator Grille Rear Side with Mounting Hardware

Radiator Grille Rear Side with Mounting Hardware

Radiator Grille Rear Side with Mounting Hardware

Radiator Grille Rear Side with Mounting Hardware

As mentioned previously, the center stud at the bottom of the grille broke when I tried to remove the nut. I think this is not uncommon! I happened upon a post to Jag-Lovers that provided the answer to this problem. Tony Coles purchased some throwing dart flight extenders. They are called “add a gram” on the U.K. Ebay. They come in brass or nickel plated steel. One end is female, the other male. Amazingly, they have 2BA threads on both ends, the same as the grille studs. I contacted Matt at [email protected] and he posted the extenders to me right away.

Fortunately, I had enough stud remaining on the grille that I was able to just clean up the threads a little, add some anti-seize for the future and then screw on the extender with the help of some vice grips. While a bit fatter than the original stud, it still fits through the lower fixing plate and the length is perfect. Thank you Tony!

Broken Lower Grille Mounting Stud

Broken Lower Grille Mounting Stud

Dart weight - Flight Extender

Dart weight – Flight Extender

Dart Weight as Stud Extender on Grille

Dart Weight as Stud Extender on Grille

Dart Weight as Stud Extender on Grille with Lower Radiator Grille Fixing Plate

Dart Weight as Stud Extender on Grille with Lower Radiator Grille Fixing Plate