Category Archives: Bugeye

Loose Ends

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This post covers several items added to the car as we begin to near the completion of this restoration.

Rear Tie down brackets (tow hooks)

In an earlier post the front tie down brackets, or tow hooks, were mounted to the car. We also purchased rear tie down brackets or tow hooks from Q1 Classic Engineering. These are heavy duty and very nicely made. We painted them black with POR 15 and easily installed them.

Rear Tie Down Brackets

Battery management quick connect cables

We then added some wiring to the battery so that we would have a quick connect system for the battery management charger. This is particularly useful given that we have a cover on the battery.

Battery Management Quick Connect Wiring

Horns revisited

We discovered, with the installation of the bonnet gas struts, that the operation of the RH strut hit the interior horn. So, we decided to forgo the second horn and just use one. The single horn,  by the way, seemed plenty loud.

Dropping the Interior Horn

Painting the exhaust

We are not ready to install the exhaust but this was a good time to go ahead and paint it. It came from Maniflow with their familiar metallic green paint. We simply roughed it up with a little sand paper and sprayed it with Rustoleum black BBQ high temperature paint.

Maniflow Metallic Green

Exhaust painted high temperature semi-gloss black

Installing the anti-sway bar

We then installed the anti-sway bar that we purchased from BugeyeGuys.com. We had previously painted the components so this turned out to be a quick job.

Anti-sway bar bits

Installing the motor mounts

The motor mounts were then installed. However, when we are ready to install the motor we will remove the RH motor mount and fix it to the motor. The LH mount will remain in the car because it is easier to leave it due to the steering column.

Heater control cable

We then connected the heater flap control cable that comes through the firewall from the heater switch to the bracket on the heater blower. 

Machining a starter cable connector

For some reason the standard connector that joins the starter cable and the starter switch is too short to do the job on the car. We know that the battery tray was replaced and perhaps the starter switch mounting bracket that is attached to the tray was slightly off? At any rate we solved this problem by machining a new connector made from a 3/8″ stainless steel bolt. Our friend Randy Forbes did the mill work for us. Thank you Randy! The new piece – almost identical but about a 1/4″ longer worked beautifully.

A new stainless starter cable connector

The new and the old

Repainting the Sprite Flash

The flash emblem or badge as mounted on the rear deck of the car was gold with red lettering. Unfortunately, the replicas of the badge available from the usual suppliers is copper in color with the red lettering. So, we stripped the paint from the badge and then repainted the badge with Rustoleum metallic gold spray paint, followed by painting the red letters and finally coating the badge with Rustoleum Krystal Clear. We were pleased with the results. We are going to mount the badge later and will be using a 3M adhesive rather than mounting it through holes in the car.

The gold paint first

Followed by Red in the letters and Clear

Re-chroming the grille

The grille is an important feature of the design of the Bugeye as it is what defines the ever-popular “smile” of the car. Modern replicas apparently do not fit very well so we decided to re-chrome the original because we knew it fit. We sent it to Dallas Plating https://dallasplatingga.com  in Dallas, Georgia and we were very pleased with the quality of the work and the delivery time.  It took only 3 weeks from the time we put the grille in the mail until we unpacked it. The charge for the plating was $440 and that seemed very reasonable compared to other businesses we checked.

Re-chromed Grille

Re-chromed grille sitting in place

 

 

Bugeye Restoration Video Episode Ninety-five covers the installation of the items mentioned in this post:

https://vimeo.com/1046168116/36c5ceb74e?share=copy

0:00 – Rear tie down brackets – tow hooks

0:39 – Quick connect battery management cables

1:28 – Revisiting the horns

2:33 – Painting the exhaust

3:18 – Anti-sway bar installation

4:46 – Motor mounts installation

5:11 – Heater control cable attached

5:24 – Machining a new starter cable connector

6:40 – Heater and starter cable covers

6:54 – Repainting the rear deck “Flash” badge

7:30 – Re-chroming the grille

 

 

 

Bonnet Headlights and Flashers

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Headlights

After some initial work on the installation of the hinge kit on the bonnet, we turned our attention to the headlights. The assembly of the headlight components, mounting the headlights to the bonnet, and the switch to LEDs from halogen bulbs has been previously addressed in two separate posts, so we won’t go into much detail on the process as we mount the headlights to the painted bonnet. See the headlight fitting post here: https://valvechatter.com/?p=14074

Information about the conversion to LED lights throughout the car may be found here: https://valvechatter.com/?p=14188

Front Flashers/Turn Indicators

Mounting the flasher units to the bonnet is pretty straightforward although installing the beehive glass and the chrome trim ring into the rubber boot can be a test of one’s patience, but that is what it takes – lots of patience. Before installing the light assembly we installed three spire nuts at each light mounting point. We used new nuts and they pushed on easily. Three stainless steel #6 Phillips sheet metal screws are used for each light.

Bugeye Restoration Video Episode Eighty-eight shows the installation of the headlights and flashers/turn indicators:

https://vimeo.com/1043298584/6820215ce0?share=copy

Bonnet Fixings – Hinges, Gas Struts and Tie-down Brackets

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The Front-tilt Bonnet Hinges

The Bugyeye has had a front tilt hinge mechanism installed for some time. We originally used the kit sold by Mini-Mania.

Mini-Mania Hinge Kit

The front hinge concept has become very popular because it provides much better access to the engine bay than the original rear hinge set-up. Today, front hinge kits are sold by many of the usual vendors such as BugeyeGuys, and Speedwell Engineering. Most are based on the innovation and work done by Gerard Chateauvieux who sold his kit through Gerard’s Garage. There have also been many approaches to latching or anchoring the bonnet to the chassis. Some have also installed gas struts to assist and control the process of opening and closing the bonnet. 

In anticipation of using both a front hinge kit and gas struts, we made a few modifications to the Bugeye front bonnet to strengthen the stress points, particularly around the radiator air box. We wanted to accomplish these changes prior to paint and we were successful. We first fashioned a couple of gussets, drilled them for plug welds, primed them with weld-through primer and welded them in place on both sides of the bonnet. 

Gas Strut Gusset

Primered Gusset

Gusset welded in place on bonnet

We also used the little brackets that came with the Mini-Mania hinge kit to strengthen the air box by riveting the bracket to the side of the headlight bucket rim. Four rivets were used with each bracket. As an added bonus, these brackets have holes that can be used to attach a range-of-motion limiter cable.

Mini-Mania bracket

After considering various front hinge kits for the Bugeye bonnet we decided to go with the hinges made by Erick Moser of Q1 Classic Engineering. Erick makes his hinges from high grade aluminum and supplies delrin washers/fittings and fasteners with his kit. What really appealed about Erick’s kit is that the hinges mount without having to drill additional mounting holes in the body or cutting the threaded bushings on the frame rails. We powder coated the components in satin black and substituted stainless hardware.

Q1 Classic Engineering Bonnet Hinge Kit

We decided to make some small reinforcing plates of 1/8″ steel to add support at the upper mounting point of the hinge. At that point the securing bolt only goes through the radiator shroud sheet metal so the extra “beef” should be helpful. We painted these black and installed them with the kit.

Getting the bonnet hinges to work effectively involved some trial and error. We ended up having to modify the hinge plates and the sliders, but Erick was great and assisted in making the necessary modifications.

Template for Modified Hinge Plate

We ended up with a very functional and good looking bit of kit. We will paint or powder coat the modified hinges when we remove the bonnet to install the motor.

Q1 Classic Engineering Bonnet Hinges

Hinge Spacer Block 1″ Wide

We also added gas struts purchased from Amazon. The struts we installed are 16″ long. We tried both 28 lb. and 35 lb. struts and found the 28 lb. units to work the best. The heavier struts tended to pull the rear edge of the bonnet way from the cowl.

Gas Struts 16″ 28 Lbs

The front tie-down brackets/tow hooks were also purchased from Q1 Classic Engineering. Nicely made and heavy duty. We painted them and installed between the hinge plates and the chassis rails.

Q1 Classic Engineering Tie Down Brackets

Q1 Classic Engineering Tie Down Brackets Installed

Mounting of the bonnet hinges, gas struts and the toe down brackets is shown in Bugeye Restoration Video Episode Ninety-four:

https://vimeo.com/1043279717/37ec3901e6?share=copy

 

Bonnet Wiring Harness – Front Lights and Horns

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The wiring harness for the bonnet lighting (headlights, flashers, side lights and driving lights) was created previously. The harness utilizes Deutsch connectors where possible but also incorporates a number of bullet connectors. Once completed the harness was taped and sent to Rhode Island Wiring for cloth braiding. The creation of the harness was detailed in Bugeye Restoration Video Episode Sixty-six: https://vimeo.com/997550566/c57d5ae6dc?share=copy

After installing the lighting harness in the bonnet we then created the harness linking the bonnet lighting wiring to the “J” Deutsch connector on the RH chassis valance. The horns and the air duct flange were also installed. All connections were tested and functioned properly. This connector harness will be removed, taped with Tessa tape and also sent to Rhode Island Wiring to be cloth braided.

Bugeye Restoration Video Episode Ninety-three covers the final installation of the bonnet lighting harness and the creation of the connecting harness: https://vimeo.com/1042084864/5e7d7f87bf?share=copy

 

 

 

Bugeye Aluminum Cylinder Head

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When we purchased the rebuilt 1275 engine from Rivergate Restorations about twenty years ago, we opted to go with an aluminum cylinder head. Described by Bill Perry (Rivergate owner) in this way: Improved flow and performance, Stellite valve seats, 19 pounds lighter than stock, ready for no-lead fuel, bronze valve guides – a beautiful, functional addition to Sprite/Midget – $725 price only applies to a cylinder head purchased with a rebuilt motor. 

We believe that the cylinder head is the one sold by Moss Motors. Part number 451-875. This is how Moss describes the head:

“These light-weight (9 lbs.) high strength aluminum alloy cylinder heads run cooler, allow higher compression ratios, and have a greater than 35% increase in flow rate over stock heads. Heads come with silicon-bronze valve guides and hardened valve seats. These require 1275 valves, springs, and retainers, 12mm spark plugs (our 451-890 NGK plugs are recommended), all of which must be purchased separately. These heads do not have air injection ports, and therefore should not be used for street use on cars originally fitted with air pumps.”

 

Compatible with: Exhaust Valve 423-335, Intake Valve 423-190, Upper Valve Spring Collars 460-556, Valve Spring Cotters 460-535, Double Valve Spring Set 423-470

Fitting the head to smaller bore engines will require machining of the block to ensure adequate valve to block clearance.

 

Requires coarse thread manifold studs 328-765 x 6

 

Note: The rocker oil feed design requires that if a Payen composite head gasket with rubber oil seal is used, the gasket must be reversed. “FRONT” should be to the back of the engine so that the original type copper oil passage seal is over the oil feed passage.

Rear Axle Hub/Brake Problems Again!

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We don’t seem to be able to escape our problems with the fitment of the rear axle hubs and brake drums. A thorough accounting of the issues we faced were first documented in several videos included in an earlier post:https://valvechatter.com/?p=13569

We thought we had conquered the problems we had encountered with the hub rubbing the axle flange and with the brake drum rubbing against the brake backplate, but upon installing the road wheels and tires we discovered that all had not been corrected! 

The wheel on the left side of the car turned freely but on the right side we found that despite the hub nuts being tightened and torqued to 38 ft. lbs. as directed in the maintenance manual, the wheel and tire wobbled back and forth. It is a little hard to tell but it can be seen in the beginning of the Bugeye Restoration Video Episode Ninety-two. We then tried a pair of brand new Moss Classic Gold brake drums that we had on hand.

These allowed us to eliminate the wobble of the wheel on the axle, but the drums rubbed against the backplates just ever so slightly. All of this trial and error is shown in the Episode Ninety-two video. 

https://vimeo.com/1039806095/9a01552650?share=copy

We will now machine the edges of the drums and see if we can end up with a fully operational axle assembly. Stay tuned….

 

 

 

 

 

Flywheel and Clutch

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In 2022 when we pulled the engine from the car to begin the restoration, the clutch was working just fine. However, with the engine out of the car and the gearbox already separated from the engine, It seemed the perfect time to go ahead and replace the clutch disc and pressure plate (cover) with new components. We have learned on multiple occasions that just because a part is new doesn’t mean it is better, but the clutch is definitely a wear item so we decided to buy a new disc from Rivergate and a new Borg & Beck pressure plate from A.H. Spares. We had already observed that the ring gear was pretty chewed up so we ordered a new one from A.H. Spares as well.

Upon removing the clutch and flywheel from the engine we noticed that we did have wear on the flywheel surface so we decided to go ahead and have it resurfaced. That was work was done by Southwest Hydraulic, 177 Jackson Rd, Venice, FL 34292 (941) 786-8530. We then took the flywheel, new ring gear and clutch assembly to VAMI – Venice Auto Marine Engine Machine Shop 331 Camion St. Venice Fl. 34285 (941) 484-2474 to have the ring gear replaced and the complete assembly dynamically balanced.

One VERY POSITIVE by-product of removing the flywheel was the discovery that not only had the crank rear seal, installed at the time we purchased the rebuilt 1275 engine from Rivergate, not leaked at all, the entire backplate was still pristine.

No leaks – Rear Crank Seal

Bugeye Restoration Video Episode Sixty-five https://vimeo.com/952645430/164949ac19 provides documentation of the removal of the clutch and flywheel as well as the installation of the new clutch.

These are the Borg & Beck installation instructions:

Borg & Beck Clutch Installation

 

 

Engine Electrical Components

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Gear Reduction Starter

We have gone back and forth between using the Lucas starter with the Bendix that engages from the rear of the ring gear and the modern gear reduction starter that engages from the front of the flywheel.We have currently replaced the starter with a modern gear reduction starter from APT Fast. Unlike the old Lucas starter it cranks until the motor fires. Definitely more difficult to install than the original, but hopefully easier starting will make it worth it. Fastening the lower bolt was accomplished by jacking up the right front, removing the tire and wheel and reaching through the hole in the frame wall. The cranking sound is very different than the Lucas starter, but functionality is substantially improved. We chose to continue to use the old pull starter switch on the dash, but could have hooked up the starter to a modern solenoid as well.

Gear Reduction Starter

Gear Reduction Starter

Alternator 

The only information we have on the alternator is that it is a rebuilt unit designed to replace the Lucas alternator that we had in the car previously. It’s rated output is 65 amps.

Alternator Invoice

Rather than having two bolts for the left and right ears of the alternator, a single long bolt and a stainless bushing have been added to enhance the stability of the mounting.

Bugeye Alternator with new Mounting Bushing

 

Exhaust

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Nothing in our exhaust system is as original! From the header to the oxygen sensor in the exhaust pipe to the dual tip muffler, everything is a modification. We have had the header fitted since the early 2000s. We don’t have a record but we are pretty sure that it was sourced from Mini-Mania and produced by Maniflow in the U.K. The header is a long branch, 1 5/8.” Before we initially installed it we had it Swain-Coated for thermal insulation. While beautiful then, it looks a little tired now so we will send it off to Jet-Hot Coatings to have them refinish it so that it will match our intake manifold.

Header

The Jet-Hot coating now matches the intake manifold.

Jet-Hot coated header

We purchased new exhaust pipes and a twin-tipped muffler from Maniflow to fit the header. The pipe comes in two sections. We will be installing a bung in the front pipe for an oxygen sensor to feed our AFR gauge. We also purchased Maniflow’s installation kit which has the hangers and clamps needed to do the job.

Maniflow Exhaust System

 

Modifying the Rear Leaf Springs

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The rear suspension in the Bugeye is comprised of the quarter elliptical leaf springs, the shock absorbers, the radius arms and their mounting boxes, the rebound straps, the rubber bump stops, and of course, the axle. Video Episode Thirteen shows the removal of the original fifteen leaf springs: https://vimeo.com/769992972/c923375ecc

We chose to replace the original springs. The only springs readily available at this time are the 10 leaf “Rally” springs. We ordered a pair from BugeyeGuy.com along with five degree shims that will lower the car to give it a proper ride height. We disassembled these springs, removed the poor paint, cleaned them and repainted with POR-15 and installed teflon tape between each leaf to reduce friction and squeaking. That process is shown in Video Episode Fourteen: https://vimeo.com/754389824/9ab8550b67

Most of what we have read on the various forums is that the rally spec springs are a bit stiff and don’t give the ride that the original springs provided. Tom Colby of Speedwell Engineering has suggested the removal of three of the leaves to offer an improved ride and we decided to try his suggestion. We can always back up and reinsert the leaves we take out.

Tom Colby’s Spring Modification

Bugeye Restoration Video Episode Sixty-four shows the deconstruction of the springs.https://vimeo.com/989814778/55abef9a4c

It wasn’t quite as easy as just pulling out a few spring leaves. Because the remaining collection of seven springs isn’t as high as the ten leaves, the bolts and springs clasps need to be modified as well. The two 3/8″ hex head bolts (per spring) that are 3 1/4″ long were replaced with two bolts that are 2 1/2″ long. The 5/16″ compressing pins that are 2 1/2″ long were replaced with 5/16″ socket head screws. Socket head screws were used because the compressing pins have round heads that also serve to locate the spring in the chassis spring plate. Rather than rounding the edges off of a hex head bolt the socket head should work just fine.   

Two of the spring clips or brackets are of sufficient size to permit drilling an additional hole in the arms of the bracket to fit the new spring height. There isn’t room on the other two so we will try them as they are or modify at a later date.

The true test will be the ride and that is still months away!