Tag Archives: Clutch

Preparations for Engine Starting

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Getting the engine and gearbox into the car was a big step in the restoration process, but there is still much to be done to get the engine ready to start and the car on the road.

In advance of the engine installation, we put together a check list of items associated with the engine/gearbox that needed to be accomplished. The list is in no particular order. As we completed items we gave ourselves a check mark and it was fun to see the checks start to add up as we got things done.

✅Remove Bonnet – struts and hinges.take the strut off first. before removing the bonnet hinges disconnect the Deutsch connector and the spade connector at the horn.

✅Jack Stands – place the car on jack stands.

✅Engine Hoist Leveler – Remove rocker cover and install leveler on engine.

✅Engine Mounts – Move rubber buffer from engine stand to the car mount.

✅Starter – Attach the power cable to the starter that will connect to the starter switch later in the process.

✅Battery Ground cable to firewall – disconnect during engine install.

✅Engine fan –  install six blade fan and spacer. Install fan belt and check tension.

✅Crossbar protector – put the custom-made sheet metal protector over the steering rack crossbar to avoid damaging the paint.

✅Remove fluids –  from engine, radiator and transmission –

✅Timing marks – make sure these are visible on the pulley before installing the engine.

✅Driveshaft Prop – Grease the yoke and the transmission splines.

✅Slave cylinder – check threads of the two mounting bolts, should be metric. The threads of the push rod extend beyond the arm by approximately one half inch (6-8 threads showing). The excess on the spacing shim goes to the front of the engine. Find the slightly shortened Allen key for the new cap screws.

✅Engine Mounts – Install the left-hand engine mount onto the chassis and leave it loose. Install the right hand engine mount onto the engine and leave it loose.

✅Header – Set the exhaust header in place so that it will be positioned to install once the engine is in place.

✅Engine/transmission install with engine hoist – Check to see if the heater plenum will require modification. Before the assembly is all the way home push the driveshaft yoke into the rear of the transmission.

✅Transmission mount – install the ⅜” – 24 x 3 ½” bolts through the chassis and into the mount and tighten. Next, tighten the front engine mounts.

✅Now center the transmission in the rear mount and tighten the transmission pad mounts.

✅Install the bolts in the sides of the rear mounts from the inside of the car with the self locking nuts inside the tunnel. It may be helpful to tape the nuts in the wrench to make starting the threads easier.

✅Radiator – It is a little tricky to install. It works best to begin with the upper right (passenger side of the car) mounting point first, then the lower right, followed by the upper left mount and finally the lower left mount. 

✅Radiator hoses – connect and clamp

✅Overflow coolant tank – determine right place for the overflow tank drain line and install a fitting in hose. Connect the radiator overflow to the tank.

✅Alternator – connect the wiring for the alternator.

✅Vacuum pipe – connect the vacuum hose from the distributor to the carburetor.

✅Starter – attach the power cable from the starter to the starter switch.

✅Ignition Coil – attach the wiring to the coil and distributor. Connect the high tension line from the distributor.

✅Oil pressure gauge pipe/hose – connect to engine.

✅Water temperature gauge – connect capillary tube two cylinder head.

✅Heater hose from cylinder head water valve to heater – uses two 10-22 mm jubilee hose clips

✅Heater hose from heater box to copper pipe – 

✅Rocker Cover – install the rocker cover.

✅Breather hose – connect the hoses and clamp

✅Driveshaft – connect and tighten bolts/nuts.

✅Refill fluids in engine, radiator and transmission – transmission requires 2 ¼ pints of Redline MT-90.

✅Remote clutch bleeder valve – connect the remote bleeder stainless steel flexible hose to the bracket on the left side of the heater box.

✅Clutch – Bleed the clutch master and then the slave cylinder. To eliminate all air, the slave cylinder piston should be held in the fully retracted position while bleeding. Do this by running out the adjustable push rod until it is pushing firmly on the clutch fork. Keep the master cylinder reservoir topped up while slowly and gently pumping the clutch size cylinder Into operating position. A power bleeder works well here.

Adjust the push rod length to give some free travel at the clutch pedal. Assure clutch is releasing fully while the vehicle is still up on jack stands. Confirm free play assuring that you can move the clutch operating lever away from the clutch slave cylinder push rod. Finger pressure against the lever should be able to move it against the pressure of the spring inside the Bell housing. Generally 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch of free play measured at the fork will be adequate. Be aware that the clutch pressure plate can be over traveled. If the clutch releases when the pedal is partway down, but then seems to reengage at full pedal down. It is being over traveled. Add free play until this condition disappears.

https://youtu.be/k11eIyfErMY?si=YUO94N5qavN61VFl

Battery ground cable to firewall – reattach.

✅Ground Strap – Attach engine to frame

✅Electric Radiator “Pusher” Fan – see Moss Motors site for directions: https://mossmotors.com/media/instructions/231-658.pdf

✅Intake and Exhaust Manifolds with gasket 

✅Carburetor –  install heat shield, phenolic spacer, gaskets, choke and accelerator cable. Connect fuel hose from pipe to carb. Connect the float bowl overflow hose. Connect the breather hose from the timing chain cover canister to the carb. Connect vacuum hose to distributor. Put ATF in the carb piston. 

K&N Air Cleaner – Install and spray with special oil.

✅Exhaust system – install, exhaust header, exhaust pipes, and muffler.

AFR gauge – connect gauge to the O2 sensor and power.

Gasoline – partially fill fuel tank with gasoline.

Start engine!

Our first step was to install the ground strap that connects the chassis to the engine/gearbox. The strap we used was sourced from Moss Motors. We actually connected the strap to the starter motor bolt that secures the starter to the engine backplate as it is important to have a strong ground connection for the electrical draw of the starter. As with most things in this post, the details are in the Bugeye Restoration Video Episode One Hundred-three.

Ground Strap from chassis to Engine

Our next item was to install the starter motor power cable from the battery post of the starter switch to the starter motor terminal.

We then installed the oil pressure gauge pipe and hose from the gauge to the fitting on the right side of the engine block. Originally this arrangement was just copper pipe but we used a copper fitting and hose supplied by Bugeyeguys. Copper, when it gets old, also becomes brittle and can be subject to breaking and leaking. The rubber hose used in the kit helps to absorb vibration.

Oil Pressure Gauge Pipe and hose fitting kit

Oil Pressure Pipe and Hose

Next, we connected the distributor to the coil wiring. Red wire to the positive terminal on the coil (it is marked) and the black wire to the negative terminal.

Distributor to Coil Wiring

The capillary cable from the water temperature/oil pressure gauge was then connected through several clamps on the right hand engine bay valance to the cylinder head. We believe that fitting to be a 5/8″-18 thread.

Capillary Tube to Cylinder Head

The alternator wiring was then connected. The large red 8AWG wire from the starter switch is connected to one of the large terminals on the alternator. The smaller 18 gauge brown/yellow wire connects the charging warning light in the alternator to the small spade terminal on the alternator.

Alternator Wiring Connections

The heater hose from the water valve on the cylinder head was then installed and connected to the heater box matrix. This hose is pre-bent and in our case was sourced from Bugeyeguys.

Heater hose from water valve

We then moved to the clutch slave cylinder and the installation of the remote bleeder kit purchased from Rivergate Restorations. We did need to add an extra “spacer” fitting (circled in red below) at the master cylinder so that braided hose would clear the edge of the “Sebring” foot box.

Modified Clutch Fitting Assembly

The slave cylinder mounted easy enough but the upper bolt is a real pain to get to once the gearbox is in the car. We used cap screws to make the job a bit easier. A cut-off (shortened) Allen key does the trick.

We fabricated a little bracket to hold the remote bleeder and used the two LH heater box mounting screws to hold it in place. In doing so, we avoided having to make any extra holes in the chassis.

Clutch Remote Bleeder Mounting Bracket

I installed a stainless bleeder valve in the fitting that Rivergate supplied. That was wrong and it leaked! We went back to the two-piece bleeder that Rivergate had supplied and everything was fine. We were able to successfully bleed the clutch system and we had no leaks. Again, this is detailed in the accompanying video.

Correct Bleeder Assembly for Remote Clutch Bleeder

We then mounted the radiator and the 10″ electric fan to the car. This also involved completing the wiring to the fan from the toggle switch below the dashboard. Instructions for wiring and mounting the fan are provided by Moss Motors. Contrary to what we typically see, the black wire from the fan is for power and the blue wire is for ground. Hayden Fan Instructions

The radiator mounts with four 1/4″ hex bolts. It is definitely easier to mount he RH side of the radiator first as seen in the video.

Radiator and Electric Fan Installation

It was then time to mount the gasket and the intake manifold and header to the cylinder head. We also added a new polished stainless steel carb heat shield. The order or sequence of the gaskets between the intake, the heat shield, the phenolic spacer block, the carb and the air cleaner is important. The K&N air filter will be added later after initial tuning of the engine. Lastly, the HIF44 carb was added.

Intake Manifold, Header and HIF44 Installed

We made some stainless steel brackets sourced from McMaster-Carr and added a nut-sert fitting in each to hold the stainless clamps used to support the heater pipe. The original intake manifold had cast fitting for the heater pipe mounting but hose were forfeited with the new Maniflow intake.

Heater Pipe Installed

We then connected the fuel delivery hose, the carb float bowl overflow hose, the breather hose from the timing cover canister, and the vacuum hose from the carb to the distributor.

Hose connections to the HIF44 Carb

HIF 44 Carburetor (RH Side)

We added a little heat protection to the fuel delivery hose with a heat shield wrap from Techflex Thermoshield https://www.cabletiesandmore.com/thermashield-t6-wrap and secured it with four stainless steel zip ties.

Thermotec Hose Covering and Stainless Zip-ties

The coolant recovery tank we had selected did not have an overflow port. We added one by drilling a hole in the top side of the tank with an “R” drill bit. We then tapped the hole with a 1/8″-27 NPT tap and thread in a straight brass fitting and painted it black. We used some clear silicone (opaque) tubing from the radiator to the tank so that we could visually inspect coolant flow and we used some black silicone hose for the overflow.

Coolant Tank Hoses

Next, it was time to put fluids into the Bugeye!

Fluids into the Bugeye

We then installed the wiring for the AFR gauge from the interior to the oxygen sensor. We will only be using the AFR gauge for tuning and therefore it does not require a permanent wiring routing nor a placement of the gauge on or below the the dash.

Details on the forgoing are shown in this video: Bugeye Restoration Video Episode One Hundred-Three.

https://vimeo.com/1088106527/9f6138ea7f?share=copy

The following content is included:

0:00 – Engine ground strap to chassis

1:44 – Starter cable 

2:12 – Oil pressure gauge pipe

2:31 – Distributor and coil wiring

2:46 – Water temperature capillary tube

3:27 – Alternator, wiring connections

4:26 – Heater hose from water valve to heater box

4:44 – Clutch slave cylinder, remote bleeder

5:53 – Clutch bleeding

6:07 – Clutch slave cylinder

7:00 – Radiator

7:50 – Radiator hoses

7:53 – Electrical radiator fan installation

8:40 – Radiator fan wiring

9:50 – Intake manifold and header with gasket

11:05 – HIF44 carburetor

12:25 – Stainless steel carburetor heat shield

12:40 – Copper heater pipe and hose

13:25 – Breather hose from timing chain cover canister to carb

13:50 – Fuel delivery hose and float bowl overflow hose

15:30 – Techflex fuel hose insulation

16:23 – Vacuum hose from carburetor to distributor

16:40 -Coolant recovery tank relief port installation

18:45 – Fluids into the car for the radiator, engine, differential, and gearbox

20:38 – Temporary wiring for the AFR gauge

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Flywheel and Clutch

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In 2022 when we pulled the engine from the car to begin the restoration, the clutch was working just fine. However, with the engine out of the car and the gearbox already separated from the engine, It seemed the perfect time to go ahead and replace the clutch disc and pressure plate (cover) with new components. We have learned on multiple occasions that just because a part is new doesn’t mean it is better, but the clutch is definitely a wear item so we decided to buy a new disc from Rivergate and a new Borg & Beck pressure plate from A.H. Spares. We had already observed that the ring gear was pretty chewed up so we ordered a new one from A.H. Spares as well.

Upon removing the clutch and flywheel from the engine we noticed that we did have wear on the flywheel surface so we decided to go ahead and have it resurfaced. That was work was done by Southwest Hydraulic, 177 Jackson Rd, Venice, FL 34292 (941) 786-8530. We then took the flywheel, new ring gear and clutch assembly to VAMI – Venice Auto Marine Engine Machine Shop 331 Camion St. Venice Fl. 34285 (941) 484-2474 to have the ring gear replaced and the complete assembly dynamically balanced.

One VERY POSITIVE by-product of removing the flywheel was the discovery that not only had the crank rear seal, installed at the time we purchased the rebuilt 1275 engine from Rivergate, not leaked at all, the entire backplate was still pristine.

No leaks – Rear Crank Seal

Bugeye Restoration Video Episode Sixty-five https://vimeo.com/952645430/164949ac19 provides documentation of the removal of the clutch and flywheel as well as the installation of the new clutch.

These are the Borg & Beck installation instructions:

Borg & Beck Clutch Installation

 

 

Fire in the Hole

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We had planned to run the engine on the starting stand with the gearbox fitted, but thought better of it. First, it would mean that we would have to figure out a way to keep the driveshaft fork in the nose of the gearbox so we would not leak oil out the end. However, more importantly, we wanted to inspect the clutch and the ring gear. So we modified the starting stand to include a mount for the engine rear backplate. 

We then hooked up the choke cable to the carb and we installed a lawn mower throttle cable and slide controller on the control panel and also hooked it up to the carb. These are shown in the video with the link below.

Water was then added to the radiator, Valvoline Racing Oil 20W-50 was added to the engine and some automatic transmission fluid was added to the HIF-44 damper. We then disconnected the coil and spun the engine with the starter until we had oil pressure. After checking ignition timing one more time, and testing for spark at the plugs. It was time to fire it up. It ran pretty well but seemed a bit rich at idle.

After a pause to work on other projects and to wait for parts, we came back to the engine to try to improve the engine’s tuning and to check on the clutch and ring gear.

The clutch had worked just fine but we decided to go ahead and replace the disc and pressure plate since the engine was out of the car. While we were at it, we also made plans to take the flywheel to a machine shop and have the face resurfaced and have the flywheel and clutch pressure plate, or cover, dynamically balanced. That is when things got interesting!

We took the flywheel to Southwest Hydraulics in Venice, Fl for resurfacing, but we got a call from them indicating that the flywheel was “coming apart.” As it turned out the flywheel had been lightened a bt too much and there was very little material between the flywheel lip and the ring gear. See below.

Flywheel delamination

This is going into the trash!

Since they no longer make steel flywheels for the 1275 (aluminum lightened flywheels are available) we searched eBay and located one. It had not been lightened at all which we preferred, but it was not without its problems. One of the clutch cover bolts had been broken off in the flywheel. Fortunately, our friend Randy Forbes came to our aid. Using his milling machine, he first flattened the top of the bolt shaft and then with his drill press using a LH drill bit he was able to remove the broken bolt with no adverse effect. Thank you Randy!

We then took the flywheel back to Southwest Hydraulics for the resurfacing and we also had them replace the ring gear with a new one sourced from A.H. Spares

Flywheel resurfaced

Then it was off to “VAMI” – Venice Auto Marine machine shop where we had the flywheel balanced. Unfortunately, we could not balance the clutch pressure plate with the flywheel because the center hole in the pressure plate was too small to fit on their machine. This should not be a problem as the pressure plate comes balanced by Borg and Beck. The new disc was sourced from Rivergate.

We then reinstalled the flywheel, clutch disc and clutch pressure plate. The flywheel bolts were new and torqued to 4o ft. lbs. A locking tab washer was installed and all the tangs were bent over. The clutch bolts were torqued to 19 ft. lbs.

In the meantime, we replaced the metering needle that came with the carb with a “BDL” needle to get some additional fuel at start up without having to rely so much on the choke. Randy Forbes again came to our aid with the installation of our oxygen sensor.

Oxygen Sensor Bung Installed

Randy doing his thing!

He installed a bung into our new exhaust pipe for the  oxygen sensor so that we could use our newly purchased Innovate Motorsports AFR gauge. This is very helpful in adjusting the fuel mixture at the carb.

Innovate Motorsports AFR Gauge

Before starting the engine a second time we also decided to replace the original-type Lucas starter with the gear reduction starter we had. 

We then started the engine a second time and we were pleased with the changes that had been made. The engine seems to be running well with a static advance of 12 degrees and a full advance of 31 degrees at 3,800 rpm. All of our changes and the first and second running of the engine are included in the Bugeye Restoration Video Episode Sixty. 

https://vimeo.com/953122217/a96f4deab1?share=copy

Episode Sixty includes the following content:

0:35 – Gearbox removal

2:30 – Throttle control

3:35 – Choke cable

4:40 – Engine fluids

6:35 – Priming the oil pump

7:35 – Checking for oil pressure

8:10 – Ignition timing

8:32 – TDC Compression stroke

9:00 – Checking for spark

10:35 – Engine starts!

11:30 – Ignition timing again

12:20 – Marking the distributor setting

12:30 – Gear reduction starter reinstalled

13:10 – Innovate Motorsports AFR gauge

14:08 – Engine running again

14:45 – Engine storage until it goes in the car

The exhaust was then removed along with the intake manifold, the HIF carb, and the exhaust header. This was done because we are sending the exhaust header to Jet-Hot for a ceramic coating. We have now covered the engine and pushed her to the side. The good news which is really too good to believe, and surely will not last, is that we have no oil leaks!

Wow, we started this engine work back in September of 2023. Considerable time has passed but we were continually diverted to work on other parts of the restoration. Other than coating the exhaust header we believe the engine is now complete. Hopefully, by Christmas she will be reunited with the car and it will be as easy as installing the engine and gearbox and taking the car for an initial run!

 

 

Clutch/Gearbox and Propshaft Assorted Modifications

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The system consists of the clutch, gearbox, overdrive, and propshaft. The original driveline system included the following:

Clutch: 10” Borg and Beck hydraulic

Gearbox: “side-shift” 4 speed

Overdrive: Laycock de Normanville electric

Propshaft: Hardy Spicer universal joints

Flywheel: 28 lb.

Driveline Modifications

Toyota 5 Speed Conversion

Although I always enjoyed the Laycock de Normanville electric overdrive in my car, I knew my tranny needed to be rebuilt. Rather than go that route, I took advantage of Smitty’s five speed conversion kit and installed a Toyota gearbox in the Bloody Beast. The Toyota Gearbox is quite a bit lighter and folks say that it runs  a bit cooler than the original box.

Gearbox and Bell Housing Installed

Gearbox and Bell Housing Installed

You can use a number of different Toyota gearboxes from the non-turbo Supras or from several of the 2 wheel drive pick-ups. I used a W57 1998 Toyota Tacoma 4×2 VIN# 4TANL42N2WZ094878. Details are available in the restoration blog, but this pdf document put together by Tracy Drummond is very helpful. Drummond Five speed gearbox conversion.

The kit includes several custom components including a bell housing casting unique to the conversion.

The kit is no longer available from Smitty, but Pete Delaney now handles the product. His contact information is as follows as of July 10, 2012:

Stephanie & Pete DelaneyHealey 5 Speed
P O Box 561
Harrisburg, NC 28075
704-455-2585704-455-8504 FAX
Healey5Speedaol.com

Clutch Conversion

Many who have the early 3000s and who complete the 5 speed conversion also adopt the BJ8 9/12″ diaphragm clutch. It is less demanding on the left leg muscles. I went ahead and made this conversion while I was at it. This also requires using a BJ8 flywheel. I obtained a 24lb. lightened flywheel from Bill Bolton.

BJ8 lightened Flywheel

BJ8 lightened Flywheel

Slave Cylinder Bleeder Pipe Extension

Anyone who has bled a Healey slave cylinder knows that the bleed nipple is not exactly easy to get to. Doug Reid aka “Mr. Finespanner,” fabricated an extension for me that makes the job much easier with the bleeder actually accessed from the engine bay. This has now become a popular item used by many aficionados.

Slave cylinder bleeder

Slave Cylinder Bleeder Extension

Slave cylinder bleeder extension

Slave Cylinder Bleeder Extension

Custom Propshaft

Installing the Toyota 5 Speed does require making up a new propshaft, which I had done at a local speed shop. The propshaft does need to be balanced prior to installation.

Propshaft

Propshaft

 

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Chapter 32 – Cleaning and Trial Fitting

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October 27, 2006

Jeremy’s Rotisseri

More Rotisseri Images –  The rotisseri really does make working on the underside of the frame so much easier. These are a few additional images of the assembly at work.

rotisseri 7

rotisseri 6

Rotisseri 9

rotisseri 1

anti-sway bar bracket

 

November 7, 2006

Jeremy’s Bodywork

Jeremy has continued to work hard on the final work on the frame/tub. He has done a very nice job with the judicious use of filler to give a nice finished appearance to the frame as if it was the body! Pitting on the outside of the kick panels and on the underbonnet inner fenders just looks great.

Frame blasted clean 1

Frame blasted clean 9

Frame blasted clean 10

fill primer 3

frame bodywork

frame bodywork 3

frame bodywork 2

frame bodywork 4

frame epoxy primer 1

fill primer 4

Final sanding 1

Final sanding 2

Final sanding 3

Final sanding 4

November 12, 2006

Engine Rebuilding

Water Pump – Although Jack Harper will be doing the engine rebuild, there are some items that I can take care of before I take the motor to him. I already sent the rocker arm assembly out for rebuild, and today I queried the internet healey list about their thoughts on the water pump. Was I better to rebuild my own or purchase an after market replacement? Those whose opinions I have come to count on recommended rebuilding my own and perhaps purchasing a new one to have as a spare. Bill Bolton, Peter Caldwell and Joe Curto were suggested as possible rebuilders. I had experience with all three but decided to call Peter since his lever arm Armstrong shock rebuilds will be on my car and because so many rave about the quality of his work.  He indicated that his company didn’t “officially” do water pump rebuilds, but they were getting ready to do a number of them and that I should send mine along His rebuild would be $75.00. I took mine off the motor – four nuts on studs and took the pully off the pump shaft. That required the use of the slide hammer, but was easily accomplished.

Water pump 1

Water pump 6

Water pump 8

Water pump 5

Aluminum Oil Sump – I ordered an aluminum oil sump from British Parts Northwest. After researching the sumps available from various suppliers. Others reported that the BPN sump did not require modification to the oil pump because it is a little deeper than the others. Of course, that also means it protrudes lower in the frame, but since my motor mounts are ¼” high I concluded that it would work best. Unfortunately, it arrived in pretty rouh shape with grinder marks on the exterior and some casting depressions. I sanded the body until most of the grinder marks were eliminated. Jeremy will glass bead blast and we will put a few coats of clear paint on it for protection.

aluminum oil sump 2

November 24, 2006

Jeremy’s Painting and Bodywork

Suspension and other little bits –  To take a break from sanding the frame, Jeremy turned again to finishing some of the smaller parts that are to be painted gloss black. The following images show some of the work.

small primed parts 2

media blasted parts 2

small parts black 1

rear springs blasted 1

flywheel ready to paint

Rear Springs painted 1

Rear Leaf Spring Assembly – The leaf springs were painted semi-gloss. I put a layer of teflon tape between each of the leaves to provide for smoother action between each of the leaves. It should help to eliminate creaks and moans later. The finished products looked very nice.

Rear spring glide strips 1

Rear springs teflon tape

Rear springs completed

Smitty Toyota Transmission Conversion and Clutch Assembly – I wanted to see how the conversion assembly was going to fit so I decided to rmove the gearbox from the bell housing and set things up. The lightened flywheel from Bill Bolton had been cleaned up and painted just for some rust protection. I inserted the aluminum pilot bushing with bearing pressed in by using my lead knock-off hammer and soft drift to keep from damaging the aluminum.

Flywheel Smitty Pilot Bearing

Crank Rear Oil Seal – I will be purchasing an improved crank rear oil seal which will require some modification of the backplate, but for now I just wanted to see how things were going to fit, so I used the backplate as it was. I then fit the flywheel to the crank. Although not in the image below, I will be using the flywheel bolt lockdown tab washers.

Engine Backplate

Flywheel installed 1

Then I installed the Pressure plate using the Smitty supplied clutch disk (thicker than stock Toyota) and centered it using the alignment tool supplied in kit. After installing the bell housing it became obvious that the throw out arm did not have sufficient travel without hitting the back edge of the opening in the housing. I will add some length (others have suggested about 3/16” to the pivot fulcrum to gain the travel required.

Clutch plate assembly

Bell housing installed

Clutch arm pivot 2

Throw out bearing clutch arm 1

Throw out bearing clutch arm 2

throw out arm 1

November 27, 2006

Back to the Engine Work

Tach Drive Housing – Detached the tach drive housing from the block. Three ¼” x 7/8” Hex head bolts with flat and lock washers. As per the manual, pulled out the gear drive with a 3” x 5/16” bolt attached to the threaded hole in the drive. Will need to install new rubber seals in the unit.

Tach Drive assembly 1

Tach Drive assembly 2

Tappet Cover Plates – There are three covers. The rear cover with the breather pipe is secured with one 1 ¼” x 5/16” hex head bolt with a copper washer and a cork gasket. The center cover is also attached with one 1 ¼” x 5/16” hex head bolt with copper washer and cork gasket. The front cover which is much heavier to support the weight of the generator is secured with five ¾” x 5/16” hex head bolts with copper washers.

Rear Side Cover

Center Side Cover

Front Side cover 1

Heater Water Valve –  Secured by two 5/8” x ¼” hex head bolts and washers.

Heater water valve

Blanking Plate – Located on the right side of the motor. Two hex head bolts 5/8” x 5/16.” Course threads with copper washers.

Blanking Plate

Oil Pipe Fitting, back side – One hex head bolt, 3/8” x 5/16” with copper washer.

Oil Feed Pipe

Oil Feed Bolt

Oil Pressure Relief Valve – One 1 1/8” (wrench size) hex head bolt x 3/8” long. Copper washer with spring and cup.

OIl Pressure Relief Valve 2

OIl Pressure Relief Valve 1

Plug for Oil Filter Feeder Hole – Right side of block. One 7/8” (wrench size) hex head bolt 3/8” long, with copper washer.

OIl Filter feeder hole plug 1

OIl Filter feeder hole plug 2

Union for Oil Gauge Pipe – Right side of block. Nut with pin hole. Fiber washer.

Oil Pressure Pipe Union 1

Oil Pressure Pipe Union 2

Block Drain Tap – Brass with fibre washer.

Drain Tap 1

Drain Tap 2

Carb Drain Pipe Brackets – Located at the second and seventh oil sump mounting bolts from the font of the block. ¼” nuts used to secure the clips.

Fuel Drain Pipe Clip 1

Fuel Drain Pipe Clip 2

Fuel Drain Pipe Clip 3

November 27, 2006

Jeremy’s Painting and Bodywork

New Seam Sealer and Prep for Chip Protector –  Jeremy finished the sanding work and installed seam sealer. 

Seam sealer finished 1

Seam sealer finished 2

Seam sealer 4

Seam sealer 1

Seam sealer 2

Seam sealer 5

Seam sealer 8

Chip Guard for the Wheels Wells – We decided to use a chip guard product in the wheel wells and will also use the same product under the front portion of the front shroud. It turned out very well, nice even coverage. The final red paint will then be sprayed over the chip guard so that it isn’t quite so obvious. 

Chip Guard 1

Chip Guard 3

Chip Guard 4

We also drilled access holes in the frame and outriggers and applied an etch primer as well as paint to protect against rust. I will need to decide if I will plug the holes or just leave them open.

Engine Work Again – I received the rebuilt rocker arm assembly from The Rocker Arm Specialists and could not have been more pleased. The installed the new pedestal with the threads for the oil pipe and rebushed the whole mechanism. It looks great as well.

Rebuilt rocker assembly

Rebuilt rocker assembly

Oil Pump Removal and Inspection – After dropping the oil sump and cleaning it up a bit, I removed the oil pump to inspect it. I think I will go ahead and replace it to be on the safe side. It is the gear type pump, but others have recommended the rotary pump and since the fit is interchangeable, I think I will take their advice.

Oil Pump 5

Oil Pump 2

Oil Pump 8

Oil Pump 7

 

 

 

 

 

Chapter 6 – Disassembly

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Rocker Cover – loosened two bolts and removed rocker cover.

Rocker Cover removal

July 3, 2002

Engine Removal, cont’d

Gearbox mounts –  Removed 4 bolts securing the gearbox mounts and 4 bolts and nuts from the Propshaft at the gearbox union. The bolts on the gearbox side cannot be removed without removing shaft nut. There were also 2 nuts of the same size to remove on the underside of the chassis. Finally, the nut and securing pin on the gearbox stabilizer must be loosened and removed to free the gearbox.

Propshaft Removal

Clutch slave cylinder – Detached the cylinder from the bell housing by removing 2 bolts. Must also release the clutch operating lever by removing the cotter pin from the clevis pin.

Disconnected the wire clamp on the bell housing and unclipped the wire to the gearbox switch for the overdrive.

Overdrive Wiring Clip

Overdrive Wiring

Engine Hoist – We then thought we were ready to connect the hoist and remove the engine and gearbox as one unit. If we were doing this again, we would have waited until the shroud was removed to avoid any damage. It would have also made it easier to swing out the entire unit had we jacked up the car a bit first. That would have given the gearbox more room to swing vertically. Providing enough lift height on the hoist is a bit of a problem given the length of the combined engine and gearbox and the angle needed to successfully remove the unit. 

We also decided that while it isn’t theoretically necessary, it would be easier to pull the engine if the brake reservoir were removed. So we gave up due to darkness and gently reset the engine in the bay.

Helper Scott

Securing the Hoist Chain

Helper John

Freeing the Gearbox

Progress!

Resting for the Night!

July 4, 2000

Engine Removal, cont’d

Brake fluid reservoir – Removed the container by loosening one nut securing the bracket, and then loosening the two brass brake line nuts to the container. Note that there are also nuts on the bottom of the canister.

Brake/Clutch Fluid Reservoir

Brake/Clutch Fluid Pipes to Reservoir

Hydraulic lines –  Removed the hydraulic lines from the master cylinders to the reservoir canister. Note double clasp or clip on fender secured by a nut and bolt on outside of fender well. The longest pipe is the brake and is connected closest to the front of the car. Shorter pipe is the clutch line.

Attempted to remove the engine with the lift again. This time with better light, a less crowded space and with the lift chain adjusted we easily removed the engine and transmission.

The Helpers Got it Done!

Lin, Scott and the Beast

Free at Last with Gearbox Removed

 

Clutch Assembly and Ready For the Engine Stand

To mount the engine on the stand it was necessary to remove the gearbox from the engine. The bell housing was secured with 9  3/8” x 24 bolts including two that mount the starter. The bolt on the top right secures to the engine block without a nut. All other bolts have nuts. After removing the transmission we then had to remove the clutch. You must gradually slacken the cover screws a turn at a time until the spring pressure is relieved.

Clutch Assembly 1

Clutch Assembly 2

After the clutch assembly was removed, the flywheel was exposed. Four nuts with the lock washer straps were loosened. The crankshaft pulley must be held on the front of the engine to prevent the shaft from turning.

Exposed Flywheel

Clutch Fork

We were then able to transfer the engine from the lift to the engine stand.

On the Engine Stand

Engine Stand Mounting

July 22, 2002

Wings

The Front Wing – Removed 3 bolts joining the front shroud and the front wing below the headlight. These are slightly shorter than those used to secure the top of the shroud and the wing together. They are tightened to spring-clip type nuts. Removed the headlight and sidelight. The sidelight is fastened with three small screws and nuts on the reverse side. Two pieces of plastic piping are found above and below the sidelight. Four brass nuts accessible beneath the wing hold the headlight bucket in place. Seven bolts fastened the shroud to the wing along the top edge. Three bolts and nuts secure the wing to the frame along the bottom edge. Seven small self tapping screws fasten the wing in the door jamb to the hinge pillar.

The Rear Wing – Removed three bolts inside the interior and three inside the boot to remove the rear wing. The bolt located closest to the rear of the car, but still in the interior has a regular nut rather than a clip spring nut which must be held with a wrench when removing. There is also a screw near the door under the aluminum trim that fastened into a steel plate. At the bottom of the rear wing there are two bolts and nuts securing the wing to the frame and a vertical drive sheet metal screw. Finally, eight cross-head screws with nuts fix the wing to the door shut pillar and they must be removed.

 

Gearbox, Clutch and Propshaft

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Clutch and Gearbox

Clutch Master Cylinder

I will replace the master and reservoir seen here with a new unit.

Clutch Master/Reservoir

Clutch Master/Reservoir

Clutch Master/Reservoir

Clutch Master/Reservoir

Since the clutch master and the brake master share the same housing and pedal box, information about those components is addressed under the brake servo and hydraulics post at this link: https://valvechatter.com/?cat=615

Clutch Master Cylinder, Reservoir Mounted to Housing with new Pedal Rubber

Clutch Master Cylinder, Reservoir Mounted to Housing with new Pedal Rubber

Bracket for Flexible Clutch Hose at Rear of Cylinder Head

This little bracket is in a conspicuous location and called for re-chroming.

Clutch Flexible Hose Bracket at Rear of Cylinder Head

Clutch Flexible Hose Bracket at Rear of Cylinder Head

Slave Cylinder Hydraulic Pipe

A hard line attaches to the flexible stainless steel hose at the cylinder head bracket (shown above) and connects to the slave cylinder. It is held securely by one clip attached to the bell housing. The new line was sourced from Classic Tube along with the pre-bent brake lines.

Slave Cylinder Hydraulic Line

Slave Cylinder Hydraulic Line

Clutch

The 1964 MK2 used a spring-loaded, hydraulically-operated, driven plate assembly with cover and a graphite release bearing. Later models switched to a diaphragm clutch. While the diaphragm cultch is probably easier to operate, I decided to stick with the original type in my restoration. The entire clutch assembly was purchased from SNG Barratt and installed by my engine builder, Mike Gassman, from Gassman Automotive. The unit was balanced with the engine for smoother running.

MK2 Clutch Diagram

MK2 Clutch Diagram

MK2 Clutch Assembly

MK2 Clutch Assembly

Release Bearing and Clips

Release Bearing and Clips

Release Bearing Mounting Clips

Release Bearing Mounting Clips

Clutch Slave Cylinder

Fortunately, the replacement slave cylinder sourced from SNG Barratt is exactly the same as the original. the rubber boot is somewhat different, but otherwise identical. The new return spring is; however, shorter than the spring currently on the car. Not sure if it is a different spring or if the original is stretched. In any case, I shall try the new one (which did have the proper Jaguar part number) and see how everything functions.

Slave Cylinder Assembly

Slave Cylinder
Assembly

The Jaguar Service Manual states that “there should be 3/4″ free travel or unloaded movement at the pedal pad before feeling the resistance of the clutch thrust springs. The free travel is most easily felt by depressing the pedal pad by hand until a marked resistance is felt. Adjustment is effected by slackening the lock nut and turning the operating rod between the slave cylinder and the clutch withdrawal lever. Screwing the rod into the knuckle joint will increase the pedal travel; screwing the rod out will decrease the free travel.”

MK2 Clutch Slave Cylinder Adjustment

MK2 Clutch Slave Cylinder Adjustment

Gearbox and Overdrive The gearbox is a four-speed type with synchromesh on the second, third, and top gears. The overdrive is a Laycock de Normanville. First and reverse gears are 12.731:1, Second is 7.012:1, Third is 4.836:1, and fourth is 3.77:1; with the overdrive engaged the top gear ratio is 2.933:1. A synchronized fiord gear was added later in production.

According to Nigel Thorleys excellent book – Original MK1/MK 2 the all synchro box was fitted in Sept 1965 from chassis no 119200 – 2.4 RHD 127822 – 2.4 LHD 169341 – 3.4 RHD 180188 – 3.8 LHD

MK2 Gearbox

MK2 Gearbox

 

MK2 Overdrive

MK2 Overdrive

Mike Gassman, http://www.gassmanautomotive.com refreshed the overdrive and the gearbox was sent to Quantum Mechanics in Connecticut. Both units were in good repair with the exception that the 3rd to fourth shift fork was bent and was replaced. The gearbox also had all bearings, synchronizers, seals and gaskets replaced. The gears were in good shape. The overdrive was cleaned, an overdrive rebuild kit installed and reassembled in good working order. A new solenoid was affixed and the system was tested.

Change-Speed Lever Assembly (Gear Shift) The  change-speed lever has single flat washer above the selector lever.

There is a two part rubber bush inside the selector lever through which the selector shaft passes. There is a flat washer at each end of the bush. The washers have different diameter holes appropriate to the shaft size at each end of the lever. I cleaned the selector lever and painted it with POR-15. New rubber bushes were also installed.

Change-Speed Lever

Change-Speed Lever

Selector Lever

Selector Lever

Painted Selector Lever

Painted Selector Lever

Assembly Components

Assembly Components

There is a bronze bushing in the selector lever through which the pivot pin passes. This bush was also replaced with a new component. A new fiber washer is located on each end of the pivot pin. A double spring washer  is located on the pivot pin and the assembly is held together with a slotted nut and a split (cotter) pin.

Change Speed Lever Knob

Change Speed Lever Knob

The correct lever knob for the early Moss gearbox (without first speed synchro) is a tear drop shape. The later box used a round shifter ball. A locking nut secures the shift knob to the shaft.

I ordered a new lever shaft and discovered that what is being supplied now is 3 inches shorter than the original. I will probably have my original lever shaft rechromed and use it.

Original Shifter on Left and New Part on Right

Original Shifter on Left and New Part on Right

 

Pivot Jaw Holding Selector Lever

This device connects the Change-speed Lever (gear shift) to the Gearbox Top Cover. In the image below it is the black yoke which was cleaned and painted with POR-15.

Pivot Jaw Housing Selector Lever

Pivot Jaw Housing Selector Lever

The following image shows the components of the Pivot Jaw assembly: The Pivot jaw, two fibre washers, a bushing, a flat “D” washer, a spring washer and a slotted nut with split pin.

Pivot Jaw Assembly Components

Pivot Jaw Assembly Components

This image shows the Pivot Jaw Housing, the Change-speed Lever, and the Selector Lever all assembled and in place on the gearbox:

Assembled Gear Selector Assembly

Assembled Gear Selector Assembly

Fasteners for Gearbox to Engine The original fasteners were in good shape, no doubt due to the thick coat of oil and grease that encapsulated them! I media-blasted the bolts and nuts and had them zinc plated for use upon reassembly. There are eleven hex head bolts 3/8″ – 24 x 2 7/8″ with two 3/8″ – 24 nuts and shakeproof washers, and four 3/8″ – 24 x 1 3/8″ hex head bolts with four 3/8″ – 24 nuts and shakeproof washers.

Bellhousing fasteners

Bellhousing fasteners

Cover Plate at Front of Clutch Housing  The cover plate is fastened to the engine backplate with four #10-24 x 1/2″ hex head bolts and shakeproof washers. It is installed when the gearbox is mated to the engine when the two components are separated by approximately 2″. At that time the cover plate is slid into position and tightened against the lip of the gearbox bell housing with the four bolts.

Clutch Cover Plate

Clutch Cover Plate

Clutch Cover Plate at Bell Housing

Clutch Cover Plate at Bell Housing

Gearbox/Engine Mating

On June 18, 2016 in preparation for the preliminary installation of the engine and gearbox into the car for testing, I mated the two components together using the bolts referenced above. In the cases where nuts are used, all nuts are found on the bell housing side. I had to wrestle with the gearbox a bit to get it to seat properly, but I eventually got there. One must be careful to keep the gearbox mainshaft level with the crankshaft to avoid bending the shaft.

Gearbox Mainshaft

Gearbox Mainshaft

I used my engine hoist to hold the gearbox at proper height during the exercise. Several long 3/8″ bolts were used to align the bell housing and the backplate of the engine, prior to inserting the proper bolts and pushing the gearbox home. As mentioned above, then the two components are approximately two inches apart, the clutch cover needs to be inserted and bolted in place.

RH Side of Bell Housing Mounted to Engine

RH Side of Bell Housing Mounted to Engine

LH Side Of Bell Housing Mounted to Engine

LH Side Of Bell Housing Mounted to Engine

Ground Strap

The ground strap was connected to the engine/bell housing prior to installation in the car. A new ground strap was sourced from SNG Barratt. Note the proper location of the strap:

Ground Strap Mounted

Ground Strap Mounted

Propshaft

The propshaft with the two flange yokes attached is just under 48″ long. The shaft seems to be in good shape, but I went ahead and replaced the two universal joint journals and bearings. Following installation of the universal joints I greased the two units and then cleaned the shaft well to send to Driveshaft Specialists in San Antonio, TX  http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com  (Jeff, 866-455-6622) for balancing.

Universal Joint Replacement

Universal Joint Replacement

Duralast Universal Joints

Duralast Universal Joints

Universal Joints Installed

Universal Joints Installed

Upon return from Driveshaft Specialists, I painted the propshaft with POR-15.

Propshaft with new Universal Joints

Propshaft with new Universal Joint

Balanced & Painted Propshaft

Balanced & Painted Propshaft

Gearbox/Overdrive Lubrication

After installing the engine and gearbox in the car I filled the gearbox and overdrive with oil. Mike Gassman, at Gassman Automotive, recommended using Amalie Elixir Full Synthetic GL-5 Gear Lubricant. The Jaguar MK2 Service Manual indicated that 4-3/4 pints of lubricant should be used.

Amalie Elixer Full Synthetic GL-5 Gear Lube 75W-90

This image, although a little out of focus, shows the fill plug near the top and the drain plug at the bottom of the gearbox. The overdrive fills though an internal hole from the gearbox to the overdrive.

Drain and Fill Plugs for the Jaguar MK2 Gearbox

While I could have used my hand pump to pump the gear lube from below into the fill hole, since my interior is not installed I removed the fiberglass gearbox cover and filled from above. I inserted a clear tube into the fill hole and routed it to the interior. I found that it actually took a little closer to 4- 1/2 pints to fill the units, even after waiting some time to allow the fluid to flow to the overdrive. I filled the gearbox until the gear lube began to leak out of the fill hole.

Fill Tube for Gearbox