Clutch/Gearbox and Propshaft Assorted Modifications

Posted on March 15, 2020 by valv8988

The system consists of the clutch, gearbox, overdrive, and propshaft. The original driveline system included the following:

Clutch: 10” Borg and Beck hydraulic

Gearbox: “side-shift” 4 speed

Overdrive: Laycock de Normanville electric

Propshaft: Hardy Spicer universal joints

Flywheel: 28 lb.

Driveline Modifications

Toyota 5 Speed Conversion

Although I always enjoyed the Laycock de Normanville electric overdrive in my car, I knew my tranny needed to be rebuilt. Rather than go that route, I took advantage of Smitty’s five speed conversion kit and installed a Toyota gearbox in the Bloody Beast. The Toyota Gearbox is quite a bit lighter and folks say that it runs a bit cooler than the original box.

Gearbox and Bell Housing Installed

You can use a number of different Toyota gearboxes from the non-turbo Supras or from several of the 2 wheel drive pick-ups. I used a W57 1998 Toyota Tacoma 4×2 VIN# 4TANL42N2WZ094878. Details are available in the restoration blog, but this pdf document put together by Tracy Drummond is very helpful. Drummond Five speed gearbox conversion.

The kit includes several custom components including a bell housing casting unique to the conversion.

The kit is no longer available from Smitty, but Pete Delaney now handles the product. His contact information is as follows as of July 10, 2012:

Stephanie & Pete DelaneyHealey 5 Speed
P O Box 561
Harrisburg, NC 28075
704-455-2585704-455-8504 FAX
Healey5Speedaol.com

Clutch Conversion

Many who have the early 3000s and who complete the 5 speed conversion also adopt the BJ8 9/12″ diaphragm clutch. It is less demanding on the left leg muscles. I went ahead and made this conversion while I was at it. This also requires using a BJ8 flywheel. I obtained a 24lb. lightened flywheel from Bill Bolton.

BJ8 lightened Flywheel

Slave Cylinder Bleeder Pipe Extension

Anyone who has bled a Healey slave cylinder knows that the bleed nipple is not exactly easy to get to. Doug Reid aka “Mr. Finespanner,” fabricated an extension for me that makes the job much easier with the bleeder actually accessed from the engine bay. This has now become a popular item used by many aficionados.

Slave Cylinder Bleeder Extension

Custom Propshaft

Installing the Toyota 5 Speed does require making up a new propshaft, which I had done at a local speed shop. The propshaft does need to be balanced prior to installation.

Propshaft

Chapter 78 Week Forty-Eight November, 12 2007

Posted on March 15, 2020 by valv8988

I ordered some 6mm black rubber tubing from British Wiring to sheath the choke cables. It gave a slightly loose fit, but I think it will be fine. I installed it on both cables. I painted and installed the propshaft made for me by Dale Engineering.

I purchased the cruise control unit, made by Audiovox, from J. C. Whitney.

Audiovox cruise control

It was fairly inexpensive and appeared to be a high quality kit. A complete set of installation instructions is available from the Cruise Control pdf document I created. Not much helpful information was available from other Healey owners who had done the install, although I did find one well done article that is in the October, 2002 edition of the Healey Marque Magazine. Alan Teague and Carl Brown from North Carolina did provide some useful tips and photos and I am grateful to both of them. Installing the Audiovox CCS

(This is a large file that takes a while to open, be patient)

The key components included installing the magnet and sensor at the propshaft, the location of the servo canister, the vacuum line and throttle connections, the control module, and the wiring.

I installed the servo above the dash panel support bracket to the right of the steering column with two 11” plastic ties, rather than using the supplied metal bracket. I know from other’s accounts that the unit makes some noise when it is operating, but not knowing if it is an offensive level or not, I wanted to mount the servo temporarily. If the unit turns out to be noisy, I will move it into the engine bay later.

Servo installed

Wiring the magnet to the propshaft should really be done with the shaft removed from the car if you want to do a nice installation. I located the magnet while the propshaft was in the car, aligned the sensor and mounted it on the right side of the gearbox tunnel, removed the propshaft and safety wired the magnet and then reinstalled the propshaft. If you want to do a nice job, I highly recommend using safety wire twisting pliers. They make the job much easier and result in higher quality work. I got my pliers from Aircraft Spruce.

Cruise control propshaft 6

Cruise control driveshaft sensor 2

Installing the supplied rubber vacuum line required taking the line through a firewall rubber grommet that was not previously used, and then modifying the larger nut on the intake manifold with a fitting to permit connecting the hose for vacuum at the manifold.

Homemade vacuum fitting

Cruise vacuum fitting 1

Cruise Vacuum Line grommet

After setting up the magnet, sensor and vacuum servo the next task was to complete the installation of the cruise control panel. I followed the course of others, taking advantage of the panel’s small size and installing it in the ash tray. This provides a convenient location for controls and also “hides” the panel when desired. I simply drilled a 1/2” hole in the bottom of the ash tray and in the gearbox tunnel bracket for the ash tray to permit the routing of the wiring.

Modified ash tray for cruise 1

Modified ash tray for cruise 2

Cruise control panel

The cruise control wiring appears daunting at first, but with patience it can be accomplished by a novice. Since on the BT7 the speedometer cable runs behind the gearbox extension, I decided to run the cruise control wires down the same path to get all of my wiring “under” the gearbox cover. Again, details are provided in the Cruise Control pdf file. Black, twin tailed wire to the magnet sensor, black single wire to ground, grey wire to headlamp switch for illumination of the control panel in the ash tray, red wire to the light green wire on the brake switch that is hot whether the brake pedal is depressed or not, the purple wire to the green/purple wire on the brake switch (the one that is hot when the pedal is depressed), blue wire to (-) terminal on the coil, yellow, green and purple and red wire to the 4-pin connector, the orange fused wire to a power source when the ignition is switched on.

Cruise witring along gearbox

With the wiring complete, the only remaining task is locating and connecting the throttle control. That job will have to wait for next week’s work.

Chapter 77 Week Forty-Seven November, 5 2007

Posted on March 15, 2020 by valv8988

In final preparation for starting the Bloody Beast, I installed the propshaft and filled the Toyota gearbox with just shy of 3 quarts of MT-90 oil using the side filler hole and filling until oil started to dribble out of the filler opening.

Propshaft installed

I had been waffling on whether or not I would install the ash tray in the gearbox cover, but I decided to go ahead and do it. If I equip the car with cruise control, it will serve as a great location for the control module. I cut a hole in the fiberglass cover an JB welded the bracket to the cover. The next step was to cover both sides of the gearbox cover with Dynamat Extreme.

shift ring JB Weld

Gearbox cover with Dynamat 1

Gearbox cover with Dynamat 2

Fitting the carpet and padding to the gearbox cover was not a job that I had been looking forward to doing. Not so much hard as awkward. I installed two carpet snaps through the padding provided by Heritage Upholstery and Trim on each side of the fiberglass gearbox cover. I installed these with #6 machine screws with large washers and nuts, rather than with self-tapping screws since I was fastening to fiberglass instead of metal.

Gearbox padding

I also cut some padding to go over the end of the gearbox tunnel and I fit it with velcro. The carpet was carefully cut to fit through trial and error with the help of some chalk. Holes were drilled in the gearbox cover flange and the assembly was mounted to the car. Everything seemed to be nice and tight, although I will do some seam sealing to the underside of the assembly before completing the job. I was satisfied with the final product!

Carpet installed 3

LH carpet installed 2

Chapter 76 Week Forty-Six October 29, 2007

Posted on March 15, 2020 by valv8988

I am not quite ready to start the engine because I am waiting on my custom made propshaft, currently being fabricated by Dale Engineering. However, there were some close to final matters that needed attention as the day to fire up the engine approached. Jack Harper from Coachworks, Ltd. who assembled my rebuilt engine, came to the house to assist with readying the engine.

Our first step was to “pump” some engine oil into the engine to ensure that everything was coated. Jack attached a compressed air canister with two quarts of oil to the oil pressure pipe union and then forced the oil into the engine with air pressure. As we neared the end of the oil transfer one could see the oil emerging from the top of the rockers and then the end of the transfer was signaled by a large “burp” that one could easily hear.

Jack Harper engine oil

We made sure the pointer and timing mark were aligned and then went about checking the valve gap for the assembly. I used the starter to turn over the crank as we checked each rocker/valve. We then secured the Capesport Alloy rocker cover and added another 5 quarts of oil. The rocker cover was sourced from Cape International.

Capesport Rocker Cover & Ignition Wiring

The oil I chose to use is Valvoline racing oil, 20-50 with ZDDP.

Valvoline 20-50 Oil

I had taken the NGK spark plugs out to rotate the engine. We put a little anti-seize on each plug, checked the gap and re-installed each one.

In recent months the 123 distributormanufactured by a Dutch company, 123 Ignition, has received some very good press. I had originally planned to use a Mallory Unilite distributor, but I decided to give the 123 unit a try. One appealing aspect of the 123 is that the advance curve is determined by simply adjusting the settings by turning an adjustment on the outside of the distributor and “clicking” it into place. For initial set-up, I chose the recommended “B” setting. While the distributor is a “drop-in” in for the BJ8 with an electronic tach, a kit is supplied to adapt it for the mechanical tach drive of the BT7. The shaft did need to be drilled and the drive dog from the original Lucas unit installed with a few spacing washers. My unit was supplied by a German vendor Brits’N’Pieces. Jack installed the distributor and I installed the Pertronix igntion wiring to the plugs and to the Pertronix “Flamethrower” coil. The coil was previously mounted vertically on the shroud brace. Several of the wiring leads on the original wiring harness for the ignition were no longer needed so I simply used plastic ties to fold them down and secure them, in case they might be needed at some point in the future.

123 Distributor

123 Distributor drive dog

123 Distributor. Purchase Information and instructions.

My next step was to add coolant to the radiator. I used Prestone 50/50 premixed formula. Fortunately no leaks!

I had been using an old battery for checking out electrical function throughout the restoration process, but it was now time to buy the battery I would be using in the vehicle when it was a road car and not a garage car! I decided on the Optima. I purchased it at the local Batteries Plus store. They are not cheap at about $160 dollars, but I like the idea of the no-leak gel in the boot of a car. The model number I purchased was: Part Number: 34 (8002-002) RedTop®; Battery; Group 34; Cold Crank Amps 800; Crank Amps 1000; Reserve Capacity 110; Ampere Hour 50; Top Terminal; L-10 in.; W-6 7/8 in.; H-7 13/16 in.; UNBOXED. The battery was secured in place with the battery fixing bar and rods.

Optima Battery

Because the Smitty Bell housing fit a little high in my car????, I custom fabricated a gearbox cover extension to provide a little more room for the housing. This also required custom fitting carpet. I had ordered a couple of extra yards of carpet when I ordered my interior from Heritage Upholstery and Trim for this purpose. I first covered both sides of the cover with Dynamat Extreme and then cut and glued the carpet to the cover.

Gearbox cover extension 1

To assist with interior cooling and weight, I ordered a fiberglass gearbox and propshaft cover from British Car Specialist. The original cover was metal and mine was too far gone from rust. Using a fiberglass cover also made it easy to fill the original hole for the side shifter and cut a new hole in the center for the Toyota gear shift. I used an MGB trim ring and rubber seal for the gear shift lever sourced from Moss Motors. Using a helpful hint from Doug Reid, “Mr. Finspanner,” some JB Weld was used to glue four “T” nuts to the bottom of the fiberglass cover so that machine screws could be used to mount the ring, rather than sheet metal screws that overtime would fail to secure tightly in the fiberglass.

Chapter 6 – Disassembly

Posted on March 15, 2020 by valv8988

Rocker Cover – loosened two bolts and removed rocker cover.

Rocker Cover removal

July 3, 2002

Engine Removal, cont’d

Gearbox mounts – Removed 4 bolts securing the gearbox mounts and 4 bolts and nuts from the Propshaft at the gearbox union. The bolts on the gearbox side cannot be removed without removing shaft nut. There were also 2 nuts of the same size to remove on the underside of the chassis. Finally, the nut and securing pin on the gearbox stabilizer must be loosened and removed to free the gearbox.

Propshaft Removal

Clutch slave cylinder – Detached the cylinder from the bell housing by removing 2 bolts. Must also release the clutch operating lever by removing the cotter pin from the clevis pin.

Disconnected the wire clamp on the bell housing and unclipped the wire to the gearbox switch for the overdrive.

Overdrive Wiring Clip

Overdrive Wiring

Engine Hoist – We then thought we were ready to connect the hoist and remove the engine and gearbox as one unit. If we were doing this again, we would have waited until the shroud was removed to avoid any damage. It would have also made it easier to swing out the entire unit had we jacked up the car a bit first. That would have given the gearbox more room to swing vertically. Providing enough lift height on the hoist is a bit of a problem given the length of the combined engine and gearbox and the angle needed to successfully remove the unit.

We also decided that while it isn’t theoretically necessary, it would be easier to pull the engine if the brake reservoir were removed. So we gave up due to darkness and gently reset the engine in the bay.

Helper Scott

Securing the Hoist Chain

Helper John

Freeing the Gearbox

Progress!

Resting for the Night!

July 4, 2000

Engine Removal, cont’d

Brake fluid reservoir – Removed the container by loosening one nut securing the bracket, and then loosening the two brass brake line nuts to the container. Note that there are also nuts on the bottom of the canister.

Brake/Clutch Fluid Reservoir

Brake/Clutch Fluid Pipes to Reservoir

Hydraulic lines – Removed the hydraulic lines from the master cylinders to the reservoir canister. Note double clasp or clip on fender secured by a nut and bolt on outside of fender well. The longest pipe is the brake and is connected closest to the front of the car. Shorter pipe is the clutch line.

Attempted to remove the engine with the lift again. This time with better light, a less crowded space and with the lift chain adjusted we easily removed the engine and transmission.

The Helpers Got it Done!

Lin, Scott and the Beast

Free at Last with Gearbox Removed

Clutch Assembly and Ready For the Engine Stand

To mount the engine on the stand it was necessary to remove the gearbox from the engine. The bell housing was secured with 9 3/8” x 24 bolts including two that mount the starter. The bolt on the top right secures to the engine block without a nut. All other bolts have nuts. After removing the transmission we then had to remove the clutch. You must gradually slacken the cover screws a turn at a time until the spring pressure is relieved.

Clutch Assembly 1

Clutch Assembly 2

After the clutch assembly was removed, the flywheel was exposed. Four nuts with the lock washer straps were loosened. The crankshaft pulley must be held on the front of the engine to prevent the shaft from turning.

Exposed Flywheel

Clutch Fork

We were then able to transfer the engine from the lift to the engine stand.

On the Engine Stand

Engine Stand Mounting

July 22, 2002

Wings

The Front Wing – Removed 3 bolts joining the front shroud and the front wing below the headlight. These are slightly shorter than those used to secure the top of the shroud and the wing together. They are tightened to spring-clip type nuts. Removed the headlight and sidelight. The sidelight is fastened with three small screws and nuts on the reverse side. Two pieces of plastic piping are found above and below the sidelight. Four brass nuts accessible beneath the wing hold the headlight bucket in place. Seven bolts fastened the shroud to the wing along the top edge. Three bolts and nuts secure the wing to the frame along the bottom edge. Seven small self tapping screws fasten the wing in the door jamb to the hinge pillar.

The Rear Wing – Removed three bolts inside the interior and three inside the boot to remove the rear wing. The bolt located closest to the rear of the car, but still in the interior has a regular nut rather than a clip spring nut which must be held with a wrench when removing. There is also a screw near the door under the aluminum trim that fastened into a steel plate. At the bottom of the rear wing there are two bolts and nuts securing the wing to the frame and a vertical drive sheet metal screw. Finally, eight cross-head screws with nuts fix the wing to the door shut pillar and they must be removed.

MK2 Cruise Control

Posted on May 20, 2017 by valv8988

Rostra Cruise Control

Components

I installed an Audiovox CCS-100 Cruise Control system on my Healey and found it to be a useful modification. I am over six feet tall and the seating position in British cars can be uncomfortable on long drives. The cruise control makes those trips a bit more relaxing and enjoyable.

Rostra Precision Controls, Inc. manufacturers the cruise control system I am using in the Jaguar MK2. Many of the same components of Rostra’s system have evolved from the earlier version marketed by Audiovox. The earlier iteration worked on a vacuum servo while the current version by Rostra uses all electronic components. Rostra also manufactures a number of other automotive electronic devices such as Bluetooth systems, rear cameras and etc. The company is located in North Carolina and this is their website: http://www.rostra.com. Rostra does not sell directly, but they have many other vendors selling their products such as Summit Racing and many others.

There are a number of components in the cruise control system. These include:

Part #250-1223: The Global Cruise Module Assembly includes the universal Global Cruise servo motor, throttle cable, universal mounting brackets, wiring harness and hardware package for making electrical and throttle control connections. The servo motor mounts in the vehicle’s engine bay.

Rostra 250-1223 Servo

These are the directions provided with the Global Cruise Module:rostra-global-cruise-250-1223-instruction-manual

Part #250-4165: includes the speed signal generator with sensor, magnet and strap.

Universal Magnet Speed Signal Generator

Cars more modern than the 64 Jaguar equipped with electronic speed signal (VSS) capability don’t require a magnetic sensor, but in the analog world of the MK2, a magnet is secured to the propshaft and the sensor is located in close proximity to measure revolutions or pulses per mile. These are the directions provided with the Universal Magnet Speed Signal Generator kit: rostra-installation-of-the-road-speed-sensormagnets-pick-up-coil

Part #250-4382: is a pre-wired five pin relay to compensate for the use of LED brake lighting.

Relay Package

While the included primary wiring harness of the Global Cruise system includes wire leads meant to be attached to both the ‘hot’ and ‘cold’ sides of the brake pedal sensor to disengage the cruise control when the brake pedal is depressed, the proper ground signal is no longer present when a vehicle has been outfitted with LED lighting accessories such as LED brake lights. In a case like this, a 5-prong automotive relay must be used to provide the ground signal to cancel the cruise control once engaged. A MK2 owner using original incandescent light bulbs wouldn’t need this relay, but I have converted my lights to LEDs so this addition is required. These are the directions provided with the pre-wired 5 pin relay: rostra-250-4382-5-wire-relay-wiring-diagram

Part #250-3592: is the dash mounted control switch that includes a small LED light that illuminates when the cruise is engaged. An otherwise identical control switch, but without the engagement light is also available and is part #250-3593. I am using #3592 that also requires an additional 5 pin relay. I am not mounting the switch on the dash, as I am “hiding” my switch in the modified center console where the ash tray was originally located.

Universal Dash Mount Switch

These are the directions provided with the control switch: rostra-dashmount-installation-instruction

Installation

Step one for me was to set the electronic switches in the global cruise module. There are a total of twelve switches with “On/Off” settings. Rostra encourages beginning the installation with the factory settings and then modifying the settings based on individual applications.

rostra global cruise control module settings

Global Cruise Switches

The twelve switches configure the control module for the type of car in which the system is being installed.

Switches #1 and #2 are for sensitivity or gain. Rostra’s directions state the following: Gain is how the cruise reacts to road conditions and motor size. Always start at Mid gain. If vehicle surges, change gain. For a fast surge, switch to a low or extra low gain setting if needed to tune the cruise. If there is a slow surge, switch to high gain. Therefore, I will initially set switch #1 to “OFF” and switch #2 to “ON.”

Switches#3 through #6 are for the pulses for minute. I assume (always dangerous) that the MK2 will probably have about 3,000 to 3,500 rpms at 60 mph therefore, I will initially set switch #3 to “ON,” switch #4 to “OFF,” switch #5 to “OFF,” and switch #6 to “OFF.”

Switches #7 through #9 are for the engine set-up (cylinders). Rostra’s directions state the following: Engine/Setup timer is how fast the cruise retracts the cable at onset. Always start at low. If vehicle drops below set speed but then recovers, switch to a high or extra high if set speed is not acceptable. Of course the Jaguar MK2 3.8 is a 6 cylinder engine therefore, I will initially set switch #7 to “OFF,” switch #8 to “ON,” and switch #9 to “OFF.”

Switch #10 is for the input source – Sine Wave or Square Wave. The Jaguar MK2 must use the magnet kit as the pulse indicator and as the chart above indicates, switch #10 is set to the Sine Wave Input or “OFF.”

Switch #11 is for the transmission type – manual or automatic. I have a manual gearbox in my MK2 therefore, I will set switch #11 to “OFF.”

Switch #12 is for the type of control switch. Rostra’s directions state the following: Your control switch is an Open Circuit Control Switch if: Its Rostra part number is 250-3592 (among others). I am using the dash panel control switch #250-3592, therefore in keeping with the table above switch #12 is set to “OFF.”

In summary:

#1 OFF

#2 ON

#3 ON

#4 OFF

#5 OFF

#6 OFF

#7 OFF

#8 ON

#9 OFF

#10 OFF

#11 OFF

#12 OFF

Global Cruise Module Mounting

The Rostra instructions indicate that the Module should NOT be mounted in the following areas

* Under the fender.
* Under the vehicle.
* Directly to the engine.
* With the cable pointed down.
* Near sharp, hot or moving objects.
* Near ignition coil [No closer than 10″]
* In the passenger compartment (Noise).

The module needs to be mounted in a location that will provide sufficient “reach” for the module’s throttle control cable to link to the carburetor throttle linkage. A fairly heavy duty bracket is provided to mount the module to the car and it can be mounted in one of two orientations:

Cruise Control Module and Mounting Bracket

My battery is relocated to the boot to accommodate the placement of the air conditioner evaporator on the RH firewall. I had enough clearance to mount the module under the evaporator. This location permitted me to hide the module as best I could.

Global Cruise Module with Mounting Bracket

Mounting Bracket

Global Cruise Module Installed

Global Cruise Module Wiring

Because the Rostra kit is for universal applications, the wire runs in some cases are quite long and I decided to shorten a number of them which then effected some of the connectors that were used. There are also situations in which not all of the wiring provided is used.

My wiring diagram, tailored for my 1964 Jaguar MK2 application, is provided below. As the disclaimer at the top of this post indicates, the wiring description in this post journals what I did for my car. It is not my intention to describe what you should do for your car!

This is a link to the same wiring diagram as a pdf file rather than as a jpeg file.rostra-cruise-control-wiring-for-jag-mk2

The Rostra instructions for the Global Cruise Control Module indicate that the wiring emanating from the module needs to pass through a 3/4″ hole in the firewall. I already have an unused firewall port as seen in the image above, so I will use it for the wiring. I slid a firewall rubber grommet over the wiring harness to help seal the opening. The control module has a total of ten (10) wires, although the black and grey wires are spliced to create three black wires and two grey wires for a total of twelve (13) wires. The wires are “bundled” for routing through the firewall.

Bundle One: red/brown, yellow, black and green wires from the control module to a clear plastic female four pin connector. This connector is mated with a male four pin connector with four wires of the same colors. The red/brown, yellow and green wires are then routed to a male clear plastic flat four pin connector.

Flat Four Pin Connector from Global Control Module to Panel Switch

The black wire is routed to a male clear plastic two pin connector joining with a blue wire. These wires are not used in the system for the Jaguar. The black and blue wires are factory labeled as “to control switch six pin only.”

Red/Brown Wire – This wire is routed to a male clear plastic flat four pin connectorThis wire is routed to the “hot” side (constant 12+ volts) of the brake switch.

Bundle One Cruise Control Wires

Bundle Two: violet, grey, and brown wires from the control module to a clear plastic female four pin connector.

Bundle Two Cruise Control Wires

Violet Wire – This wire is routed to the “cold” side of the brake switch (0 resistance when brake is not pressed, and 12+ volts or open resistance when the brake is pressed.

Black Wire – This wire is spliced to create two (2) black wires. One of the black wires is joined with a grey wire in a clear female plastic connector with a label entitled “optional signal generator.” The other black wire has a ring terminal connector on it and is attached to a ground connection on the chassis.

Yellow Wire – This wire joins with the

Road Speed Sensor/Magnets and Pick-up Coil Installation

The Rostra instructions indicate that for rear wheel drive vehicles measuring distance traveled in miles per hour, one magnet should be used. Once I had the rear suspension in the car with the propshaft in the “normal” position I was able to install the speed sensor.

First, I bolted the road speed pick up coil to the thinner bracket supplied in the kit using the 1/4″-20 x 1 1/2″ bolt and the stamped nut being careful to not over tighten the nut as too much torque will damage the coil.

Second, I positioned the bracket under the car so that the coil bolt head was 3/4″ plus or minus 1/4″ from the propshaft and no more that 12″ in back of the U-joint. The pick-up coil was positioned in the middle of the propshaft and mounting holes were marked on the floor underside. I then installed two nutserts in the floor and mounted the bracket with two #10 -24 x 1/2″ machine screws.

Positioning the pick-up coil and bracket

Pick-up coil and bracket mounted

Third, secured the magnet with the long plastic tie strap provided. The ribbed side of the strap is against the magnet and seated between the two ribs on the magnet casing. I then tightened the strap using a screwdriver against the clasp and pulled the strap with pliers. This requires some effort to get the strap tight enough to avoid slippage. As the instructions indicated, I then cut the excess strap flush to 1/16″ from the lock.

Pick-up Coil and Magnet on propshaft

Fourth, I then ran the blue and grey wires from the pick-up coil under the car and up through a rubber grommet in the gearbox tunnel. The wiring then travels under the center console and up and under the dash exiting the firewall and connecting to the clear two wire plastic connector. I temporarily left the blue and grey wires without a connector, but will add the black male connector and cover the wiring in a rubber tube upon final installation. The Grey wire connects to the grey wire near the control module and the blue wire connects to the blue wire. Both will be shortened at final installation as well.

Wiring from Pick-up Coil

Pick-up coil wiring to gearbox tunnel

Pick-up coil wiring exiting Gearbox Tunnel

Pick-up Coil Wiring to Global Cruise Control Module

The female connector with the grey and black wires is identified from the factory with a white label entitled “optional signal generator.”

Optional Signal Generator Connector

Attaching the Cruise Cable from the Cruise Module to the Throttle

It is important for safety and proper operation to follow the instructions provided with the kit!

Because of its universal mounting applications, the Rostra kit includes numerous brackets and connectors. You end up using very few of the components that they provide. For the Jaguar 3.8 MK2, one needs to align the cable mounting and the Throttle Link Rod Assembly/Intermediate Throttle Lever.

Throttle Link Rod Assembly

Carb and Fuel Connections Schematic

I have “over-engineered” the bracket I fabricated for the cruise module cable, but I like to use existing holes/captive nuts and etc. whenever possible to avoid changes to the car’s body. In this case for the base of my bracket, I used two of the captive nuts available at the cover plate for the steering column on the RH side of the firewall since these are unused given that my car is LH drive.

The second image below shows the bracket and cable installed although it is somewhat difficult to ascertain the components.

Rostra Crusie Module Cable Bracket

Rostra Cruise Module Cable Brackets Mounted

As can be seen in the image above a yellow-zinc bracket attaches to the black bracket I fabricated and this zinc bracket actually anchors the throttle cable with two securing nuts. The threads on the vinyl covered throttle cable are actually formed by turning the lock washer nut clockwise on the cable.

Cable Connection to the Jaguar Throttle Assembly

Cable Sheath Threading

Many different cable ends are available in the kit. I used the eyelet shown in the image below. It fit perfectly on the clevis pin used in the Jaguar throttle assembly.

Cruise Module Cable End Connections

Throttle Cable Travel – This is a very important step. Failure to determine throttle cable travel could cause damage to your vehicle and/or Global Cruise.

The throttle cable travel must be at least 41mm (1-5/8″). Length is added by using the beaded chain provided in the kit. As shown in the image above, bead connector coupling sleeves must be used over the connectors.

Cruise Control Cable-Clevis Pin Connection to Throttle

Gearbox, Clutch and Propshaft

Posted on April 7, 2017 by valv8988

Clutch and Gearbox

Clutch Master Cylinder

I will replace the master and reservoir seen here with a new unit.

Clutch Master/Reservoir

Since the clutch master and the brake master share the same housing and pedal box, information about those components is addressed under the brake servo and hydraulics post at this link: https://valvechatter.com/?cat=615

Clutch Master Cylinder, Reservoir Mounted to Housing with new Pedal Rubber

Bracket for Flexible Clutch Hose at Rear of Cylinder Head

This little bracket is in a conspicuous location and called for re-chroming.

Clutch Flexible Hose Bracket at Rear of Cylinder Head

Slave Cylinder Hydraulic Pipe

A hard line attaches to the flexible stainless steel hose at the cylinder head bracket (shown above) and connects to the slave cylinder. It is held securely by one clip attached to the bell housing. The new line was sourced from Classic Tube along with the pre-bent brake lines.

Slave Cylinder Hydraulic Line

Clutch

The 1964 MK2 used a spring-loaded, hydraulically-operated, driven plate assembly with cover and a graphite release bearing. Later models switched to a diaphragm clutch. While the diaphragm cultch is probably easier to operate, I decided to stick with the original type in my restoration. The entire clutch assembly was purchased from SNG Barratt and installed by my engine builder, Mike Gassman, from Gassman Automotive. The unit was balanced with the engine for smoother running.

MK2 Clutch Diagram

MK2 Clutch Assembly

Release Bearing and Clips

Release Bearing Mounting Clips

Clutch Slave Cylinder

Fortunately, the replacement slave cylinder sourced from SNG Barratt is exactly the same as the original. the rubber boot is somewhat different, but otherwise identical. The new return spring is; however, shorter than the spring currently on the car. Not sure if it is a different spring or if the original is stretched. In any case, I shall try the new one (which did have the proper Jaguar part number) and see how everything functions.

Slave Cylinder
Assembly

The Jaguar Service Manual states that “there should be 3/4″ free travel or unloaded movement at the pedal pad before feeling the resistance of the clutch thrust springs. The free travel is most easily felt by depressing the pedal pad by hand until a marked resistance is felt. Adjustment is effected by slackening the lock nut and turning the operating rod between the slave cylinder and the clutch withdrawal lever. Screwing the rod into the knuckle joint will increase the pedal travel; screwing the rod out will decrease the free travel.”

MK2 Clutch Slave Cylinder Adjustment

Gearbox and Overdrive The gearbox is a four-speed type with synchromesh on the second, third, and top gears. The overdrive is a Laycock de Normanville. First and reverse gears are 12.731:1, Second is 7.012:1, Third is 4.836:1, and fourth is 3.77:1; with the overdrive engaged the top gear ratio is 2.933:1. A synchronized fiord gear was added later in production.

According to Nigel Thorleys excellent book – Original MK1/MK 2 the all synchro box was fitted in Sept 1965 from chassis no 119200 – 2.4 RHD 127822 – 2.4 LHD 169341 – 3.4 RHD 180188 – 3.8 LHD

MK2 Gearbox

MK2 Overdrive

Mike Gassman, http://www.gassmanautomotive.com refreshed the overdrive and the gearbox was sent to Quantum Mechanics in Connecticut. Both units were in good repair with the exception that the 3rd to fourth shift fork was bent and was replaced. The gearbox also had all bearings, synchronizers, seals and gaskets replaced. The gears were in good shape. The overdrive was cleaned, an overdrive rebuild kit installed and reassembled in good working order. A new solenoid was affixed and the system was tested.

Change-Speed Lever Assembly (Gear Shift) The change-speed lever has single flat washer above the selector lever.

There is a two part rubber bush inside the selector lever through which the selector shaft passes. There is a flat washer at each end of the bush. The washers have different diameter holes appropriate to the shaft size at each end of the lever. I cleaned the selector lever and painted it with POR-15. New rubber bushes were also installed.

Change-Speed Lever

Selector Lever

Painted Selector Lever

Assembly Components

There is a bronze bushing in the selector lever through which the pivot pin passes. This bush was also replaced with a new component. A new fiber washer is located on each end of the pivot pin. A double spring washer is located on the pivot pin and the assembly is held together with a slotted nut and a split (cotter) pin.

Change Speed Lever Knob

The correct lever knob for the early Moss gearbox (without first speed synchro) is a tear drop shape. The later box used a round shifter ball. A locking nut secures the shift knob to the shaft.

I ordered a new lever shaft and discovered that what is being supplied now is 3 inches shorter than the original. I will probably have my original lever shaft rechromed and use it.

Original Shifter on Left and New Part on Right

Pivot Jaw Holding Selector Lever

This device connects the Change-speed Lever (gear shift) to the Gearbox Top Cover. In the image below it is the black yoke which was cleaned and painted with POR-15.

Pivot Jaw Housing Selector Lever

The following image shows the components of the Pivot Jaw assembly: The Pivot jaw, two fibre washers, a bushing, a flat “D” washer, a spring washer and a slotted nut with split pin.

Pivot Jaw Assembly Components

This image shows the Pivot Jaw Housing, the Change-speed Lever, and the Selector Lever all assembled and in place on the gearbox:

Assembled Gear Selector Assembly

Fasteners for Gearbox to Engine The original fasteners were in good shape, no doubt due to the thick coat of oil and grease that encapsulated them! I media-blasted the bolts and nuts and had them zinc plated for use upon reassembly. There are eleven hex head bolts 3/8″ – 24 x 2 7/8″ with two 3/8″ – 24 nuts and shakeproof washers, and four 3/8″ – 24 x 1 3/8″ hex head bolts with four 3/8″ – 24 nuts and shakeproof washers.

Bellhousing fasteners

Cover Plate at Front of Clutch Housing The cover plate is fastened to the engine backplate with four #10-24 x 1/2″ hex head bolts and shakeproof washers. It is installed when the gearbox is mated to the engine when the two components are separated by approximately 2″. At that time the cover plate is slid into position and tightened against the lip of the gearbox bell housing with the four bolts.

Clutch Cover Plate

Clutch Cover Plate at Bell Housing

Gearbox/Engine Mating

On June 18, 2016 in preparation for the preliminary installation of the engine and gearbox into the car for testing, I mated the two components together using the bolts referenced above. In the cases where nuts are used, all nuts are found on the bell housing side. I had to wrestle with the gearbox a bit to get it to seat properly, but I eventually got there. One must be careful to keep the gearbox mainshaft level with the crankshaft to avoid bending the shaft.

Gearbox Mainshaft

I used my engine hoist to hold the gearbox at proper height during the exercise. Several long 3/8″ bolts were used to align the bell housing and the backplate of the engine, prior to inserting the proper bolts and pushing the gearbox home. As mentioned above, then the two components are approximately two inches apart, the clutch cover needs to be inserted and bolted in place.

RH Side of Bell Housing Mounted to Engine

LH Side Of Bell Housing Mounted to Engine

Ground Strap

The ground strap was connected to the engine/bell housing prior to installation in the car. A new ground strap was sourced from SNG Barratt. Note the proper location of the strap:

Ground Strap Mounted

Propshaft

The propshaft with the two flange yokes attached is just under 48″ long. The shaft seems to be in good shape, but I went ahead and replaced the two universal joint journals and bearings. Following installation of the universal joints I greased the two units and then cleaned the shaft well to send to Driveshaft Specialists in San Antonio, TX http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com (Jeff, 866-455-6622) for balancing.

Universal Joint Replacement

Duralast Universal Joints

Universal Joints Installed

Upon return from Driveshaft Specialists, I painted the propshaft with POR-15.

Propshaft with new Universal Joint

Balanced & Painted Propshaft

Gearbox/Overdrive Lubrication

After installing the engine and gearbox in the car I filled the gearbox and overdrive with oil. Mike Gassman, at Gassman Automotive, recommended using Amalie Elixir Full Synthetic GL-5 Gear Lubricant. The Jaguar MK2 Service Manual indicated that 4-3/4 pints of lubricant should be used.

Amalie Elixer Full Synthetic GL-5 Gear Lube 75W-90

This image, although a little out of focus, shows the fill plug near the top and the drain plug at the bottom of the gearbox. The overdrive fills though an internal hole from the gearbox to the overdrive.

Drain and Fill Plugs for the Jaguar MK2 Gearbox

While I could have used my hand pump to pump the gear lube from below into the fill hole, since my interior is not installed I removed the fiberglass gearbox cover and filled from above. I inserted a clear tube into the fill hole and routed it to the interior. I found that it actually took a little closer to 4- 1/2 pints to fill the units, even after waiting some time to allow the fluid to flow to the overdrive. I filled the gearbox until the gear lube began to leak out of the fill hole.

Fill Tube for Gearbox

Valve Chatter

Tag Archives: Propshaft

Clutch/Gearbox and Propshaft Assorted Modifications

Chapter 78 Week Forty-Eight November, 12 2007

Chapter 77 Week Forty-Seven November, 5 2007

Chapter 76 Week Forty-Six October 29, 2007

Chapter 6 – Disassembly

MK2 Cruise Control

Gearbox, Clutch and Propshaft

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