New Wiring Harness Connectors

Relay/Fuse Panel Location

As I have already indicated, my wiring harness design is very similar to Eric’s and I give him all the credit for thinking through the logic of the approach. However, we do differ in some respects.

I decided to mount my Classic Technologies Relay/Fuse Panel below the right side of the dash fascia, in front of the RH passenger seat. While in this photo it appears that its location would be obtrusive, it really is not.

Mounting of the Classic Technologies Fuse Panel

Mounting of the Classic Technologies Fuse Panel

This will require the modification of the finish panel below the dash, but then that was going to have to happen anyway to accommodate the blower and vent for the air conditioning. Moving the relay/fuse panel to this location also eliminated a significant amount of wire from the engine bay.

As will be described below, the interior placement of the fuse panel also allowed me to use the original Jaguar fuse panel mounting assembly as a screen for three barrier blocks used in the engine bay for the high beams, low beams, horns, fog rangers, side lights, and ground connections.

Wiring Connections 

As has been stated previously, I am “building up” this car to the point of being able to test the electrical system, drive train, air-conditioning, power assisted rack and pinion, upgraded brakes, motor, gearbox, overdrive and etc. I will then “take it down” again for paint, and then have a final reinstall of all components. I would not do this if I was truly restoring the car, but this is a mild rest-mod and I simply feel better testing everything in advance of paint.

Although it could well be properly classified as anal, I prepared a spreadsheet of basically every electrical connection in the car. I did this to use in conjunction with wiring diagrams. The diagrams alone just don’t give enough information about wire routing that the spreadsheet affords. The spreadsheet is still a work in progress. It needs some “cleaning” and I am sure I missed a few things, but I will modify as I go and will revise the spreadsheet as changes are made. I anticipate that this spreadsheet will be helpful when I reinstall the wiring in the car after paint.

Again, a disclaimer is appropriate: The spreadsheet is provided as guidance for those who might wish to do something similar, but it should not be duplicated or utilized without careful inspection and  approval by a certified automotive electrician.

This alphabetical listing of components is provided to help quickly identify items in the electrical system. A spreadsheet line number(s) associated with the component is indicated.

Rose Jaguar MK2 Electrical Connections Alpha listing

This is the spreadsheet showing all connections:

Rose Jaguar MK2 Wiring Spreadsheet Modified 6-14-17

The Central Gauge/Instrument Panel

The instruments/gauges and switches included in the Instrument Panel Assembly are detailed in the post “Gauges, Instruments and Switches.” I wanted to make the panel truly modular so many of the wires emanating from the gauges and switches on the instrument panel assembly are routed through three Molex connectors. It is now possible to disconnect the three connectors and remove the Instrument Panel Assembly from the car. The wires associated with each of the Molex connectors are routed through a bracket with a large rubber grommet. From that point wires travel either through one of the ports on the firewall or to one of the barrier block terminals under the dash.

Two twelve station Molex connectors and one six station connector are utilized in my wiring plan.

Of course, the tape will disappear later and the wiring will have a little housecleaning.

Gauge Panel with Molex Connectors

Gauge Panel with Molex Connectors

Molex Connectors for Central Gauge Panel Assembly

Molex Connectors for Central Gauge Panel Assembly

I refer to these Molex Connectors as “A,” “B,” and C.” The individual wiring connections are shown below:

Rose Jaguar MK2 Molex A Connections

Rose Jaguar MK2 Molex A Connections

Rose Jaguar MK2 Molex B Connections

Rose Jaguar MK2 Molex B Connections

Rose Jaguar MK2 Molex C Connections

Rose Jaguar MK2 Molex C Connections

As suggested by Eric, I also used one small barrier terminal block behind the central gauge panel. This is used to accommodate our new hazard flasher system and the alarm chime to remind the driver upon exiting the car that the headlights are still on. The image below shows the eight position terminal block as originally conceived.

Jon Langley, a fellow restorer who has also elected to design his own electrical system for his MK2, pointed out that with this configuration opening any of the four doors would sound the alarm chime. So,… 

Rose Jaguar MK2 Central Gauge Panel Barrier Terminal Block

Rose Jaguar MK2 Central Gauge Panel Barrier Terminal Block

He recommended the use of a twelve position terminal block and with this modification only the driver’s door will activate the chime.

Rose Jaguar MK2 Central Gauge Panel Barrier Terminal Block – Modified

 

Wiring Distribution throughout the Car

As I have already mentioned, I used barrier terminal blocks as connection points for the wiring distributed throughout the car. The LH blocks are located below and behind the steering column and the RH block is located to the right of the Classic Technologies Relay/Fuse Panel below the Cubby Box. This diagram illustrates the connection points and routes for the LH and RH terminal blocks. Clicking the image twice will make the diagram more readable!

Rose Jaguar MK2 Left and Right Barrier Terminal Blocks

There are three 4-gang barrier blocks mounted in the engine bay on the left hand valance under the original fuse panel. Each of the blocks have clear plastic covers. They provide connection points for the headlights, with low and high beam; the Fogranger fog lamps, the horns and the side lights. The image below provides a wiring diagram:

LH Valance Barrier Terminal Blocks

LH Valance Barrier Terminal Blocks

In addition, the photo below shows the three blocks installed.

Things may look a bit chaotic, but the three blocks are arranged the way they are so that they could be covered by the original fuse panel.

Barrier Block Terminals Under Original Fuse Panel Assembly

Barrier Block Terminals Under Original Fuse Panel Assembly

Of course, in my final harness the zip ties won’t be there and the wiring will be covered!

Grounding Bus Bar

To try to bring some order to the ground connections required by various components in the electrical system, I used bus bars with six terminal mounts in four locations throughout the car. There is one bus bar on both the LH and RH engine bay valance as well as one under the steering column and one under the console on the transmission/propshaft tunnel. These eliminated the need for individual ground connections scattered about the car.

This will provide for much easier tracking of ground connections.

Ground Bus Bar

Ground Bus Bar

 

Remote Control Door Locks

Particularly since the MK2 is a four door sedan (saloon) I want to add the modern convenience of centrally operated electric door locks and while I am at it I might as well add a keyless entry feature.

These kits are quite inexpensive and I purchased mine from A1 Electric. https://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AEOS&Product_Code=W02F-712T This kit includes most everything that is needed. The locking part of the kit is advertised as being Swiss made.

This is an image of the contents of the kit:

W02F MES Central Door Locking Kit with Keyless Entry

This image illustrates the dimensions of one of the actuators:

Actuator Dimensions

These are the installation instructions provided with the kit:W01F & W02F MES Central Door Locking Kit Installation Instructions

Mounting the Actuators to the Rear Doors

I began the installation of the four lock actuators with the RH rear door. Because the door window and lock hardware were not mounted to the door, I first installed these components. I did so to be sure that the actuator did not conflict with the operation of the window. Information on the installation of the window and lock components is provided in the “Door Handles and Locks” website entry https://valvechatter.com/?p=6027 and the “Doors and Windows” website entry https://valvechatter.com/?p=5485

The kit incorporates mounting hardware including a yellow zinc bendable strap and the necessary screws. These images show the location of the rear door actuators (both doors are the same).

Lock Actuator RH Rear Door

Lock Actuator RH Rear Door

It was necessary to drill three holes in the door: two for the strap and one for the actuator body.

Connecting the Actuators to the Rear Door Locks

Connecting the actuator to the door lock is not difficult, but it is a little complicated to explain. The schematic diagram provided in the Service Manual on page 450 N.24 is helpful.

Jag MK2 Door Lock Mechanism Schematic

While most of the mechanism for the front and rear door are the same, there are some distinctions. The rear door components are shown in the small enclosed box in the diagram above. The connecting link (E) with a spring in the diagram is for the front door and the connecting link (Ea), without a spring, shown in the box and in the image below is for the rear doors.

Lock Connecting Links Front and Rear

These connecting links do what their name implies: they connect the door handle locking mechanism and the remote control to the door lock and striker plate.I use the connecting links for both front and rear doors to connect the actuator rod, supplied in the kit, to the car’s locking mechanism. This is accomplished through the use of a small rod clamp that is provided in the kit.

Actuator Rod Clamp

The clamp has two set screws – one to attach the block to the connecting link (The factory lock rod in the diagram) and the other to connect to the actuator’s rod.

Actuator, Actuator rod and Rod Clamp

For the rear doors, to facilitate connection of the components without interference with the window frame, I chose to disconnect the connector link at the dowel (F) shown in the diagram at the top of the page. This will mean that the rear doors will not be locked and unlocked using the door handles which is of no matter to me since the actuators will be doing the job.

I then straighten the connecting link (removed the bends) and used it for the new connection to the connector block. To make the connection, the Actuator Rod needed to be bent slightly.

After installing the actuators in both rear doors, I tested them with a power source and was satisfied that they both operated effectively. The photos below show where the rod clamp attaches to the rod and to the connecting link. The position will be important when final assembly occurs.

LH Rear Door Lock Connecting Link

RH Rear Door Lock Connecting Link Position

Mounting the Actuators to the Front Doors

Because the door window and lock hardware were not mounted to the door, I first installed these components. I did so to be sure that the actuator did not conflict with the operation of the window. Information on the installation of the window and lock components is provided in the “Door Handles and Locks” website entry https://valvechatter.com/?p=6027 and the “Doors and Windows” website entry https://valvechatter.com/?p=5485

The front doors are a bit more of a challenge when contrasted with the rear doors.

To keep the actuator in a vertical position, I decided to open a hole in the door interior face. The hole can be seen in the following image:

RH Front Door Modification for Actuator

 

As with the rear door actuators, the front actuators are mounted to the door with two, kit provided,  1″ self tapping screws.

Connecting the Actuators to the Front Door Locks

Unlike the rear doors, I want to use the interior door handle to activate the lock/unlock mechanical mechanism so I kept the original connecting link secured to the lever on the dowel on the door lock (F) in the schematic above. As suggested in the Service Manual I mounted the connecting link in the center position. But, after some experimentation. I found that the most forward position of the three worked best in my case. The photos below show where the rod clamp attaches to the rod and to the connecting link. The position will be important when final assembly occurs.

The kit directions make the following point: The alignment of the front door actuators (5 wire) on the MES lock kit is very important to proper operation. If the actuators are not properly aligned and centered it will cause the system to rapidly lock and unlock the doors or not allow you to lock or unlock the doors.

LH Front Door Lock Connecting Link

LH Front Door Lock Connecting Link Mounting Position

RH Front Connecting Link Mounting Position

RH Front Door Lock Connecting Link Forward Mounting Position

 

It is necessary to drill holes in the “A” pillar, the rear face of the “B/C” pillar and in the face of each of the doors to facilitate the travel of the electrical wiring for the operation of the actuators. To protect the wiring and to yield a finished look, some type of wiring loom or boot is needed. I searched for some time trying to find a product that I liked. Hot Rodders often use a stainless loom such as the pair in the image below:

Stainless Door Wiring Loom

In reality, these are quite large and in my opinion just don’t look proper on the Jaguar. I was also concerned about these making a rubbing noise inside the doors when they were operated.

I never did find anything that was totally satisfying; however, I did locate some soft rubber looms that seems to offer the best option for me. They are very flexible and will compress and extend nicely. These came from Summit Racing but are produced by Electric-Life Power Windows and Accessories: https://www.electric-life.com/product/4301-70-011-58-diameter-flexible-inclined-rubber-tuber/  part number – 4301-70-011 5/8″ diameter Flexible Inclined Rubber Tube. To install it was necessary to drill a 3/4 hole in the pillar and the door at each location.

Rubber Door Loom

Rear Door Rubber Loom Installation

Front Door Rubber Loom Installation

Wiring

The electrical control circuit for the power locking system is comprised of two components. The first is the MES central locking system that will function properly without the addition of the wireless entry unit. In fact, the directions specify full installation and system testing of the MES central locking system alone. Only after the MES central locking system is functioning as it should, does one then add the keyless entry unit.

The MES control module is the turquoise blue box in the photo at the top of this post. A five way relay and a spade connector for ground wires is incorporated into the control module. I decided to mount the control module below the newspaper shelf and behind the radio. I installed several nutserts into the brace below the newspaper shelf to mount relays. The MES control module is secured with one #10-24 x 1/2″ machine screw and shake proof washer.

MES Control Module Mounting

I chose to locate the AVITAL 2101/712T keyless entry module on the chassis brace behind and below the cubby box. This location is also directly above where I chose to locate the Classic Technologies Fuse Box. The AVITAL unit has four mounting tabs; however, it weighs next to nothing so I used only two of the mounts with two #10-24 x 1/2″ machine screws and shake proof washers. 

I apologize for the wiring mess in the photo. I will clean all this up upon final installation.

Nutserts installed to mount keyless entry module

AVITAL keyless entry module mounted

The actual wiring circuit for the central locking/keyless entry system may be found at the “New Wiring Harness Circuits” web site entry: https://valvechatter.com/?p=8114

The wiring for this project is fairly easy to install, however, because of the connections that must be made between the MES central locking system and the AVITAL keyless entry component, the schematic for the wiring does appear to be fairly complicated.

After installing the four door actuators and rod linkages, the two control modules, and all the wiring I energized the system and everything worked beautifully. I anticipate that this is one feature that I will enjoy. Having to lock and unlock the rear doors by reaching into the car and adjusting the handle could be a bit of a nuisance. Modern cars have spoiled us (me).

Original Fuse Box Modification

The original electrical system on them MK2 was protected by two fuses. The fuse block was located on the control box bracket assembly mounted on the LH engine bay valance. The voltage regulator and the horn relay were also located inside the control box. The bracket assembly had a metal cover secured by a thumb screw that protected the electrical connections to the relay and fuse block.

Original Control Block, Bracket Assembly and Cover

As explained in other electrical system entries to this website, I am using the Classic Technologies fuse/relay panel that provides for 15 fused circuits with 34 pin connectors, 7 relays including horn, ignition power, fog lights, high beams and low beams headlights, starter and accessory power and 2 flashers for the turn signals and hazard lights. The Classic technologies Fuse Box is located under the dash fascia on the RH side of the interior.

Classic Technologies Fuse and Relay Box

In my revised wiring system I used the bracket assembly as a cover for three barrier blocks used for wiring runs to the front of the car. I know the terminals and wiring appear a hodgepodge but it was necessary to configure them in this fashion to hide them all under the bracket assembly!

Barrier Block Terminals Under Original Fuse Panel Assembly

The top of the bracket assembly was then used to mount a number of other electrical connections:

Power Steering Pump Alternator Fogranger Wiring on Bracket Assembly

The original control box cover would no longer cover, nor fit, the bracket assembly. I turned to Brandon Tyree, welder/fabricator at Gassman Automotive http://www.gassmanautomotive.com to fabricate a new electrical connections box cover. The images below show the cover. In final form it will be painted gloss black to match the heater box. The box is mounted to the valance with two 10-24 x 1/2″ machine screws and the original thumb screw slightly repurposed. Four slots were designed into the face of the box to permit heat to escape. The box sits very close to the exhaust manifolds and I did not want it to collect the heat.

Electrical Connections Box and Power Steering Pump-Reservoir Cover

Electrical Connections Box and Power Steering Pump Cover

Electrical Connections Box and Power Steering Pump-Reservoir Cover

Electrical Connections Box Cooling Vents

 

Jaguar Electrical Components

In this entry I will identify some, but not all of the major electrical components in the MK2, that are not addressed in their own entry or post.

Electrical System Overview

The Jaguar MK2 being British and a product of the mid-sixties has a positive earth electrical system. The starting system utilized a battery mounted under the bonnet, an ammeter, a starter solenoid on the firewall, a starter motor, a dynamo – commonly referred to as a generator in the U.S., a voltage control box or regulator along with a fuse box consisting of just two fuses, a Lucas ignition coil and a Lucas distributor with manually adjusted points.

My Mk2 has an updated electrical system. I have converted the system to negative ground an have installed a significantly upgraded fuse box and complementary wiring harness.

Alternator

I am installing an alternator in lieu of the original dynamo/generator. The alternator I am using is an Hitachi manufactured by Valeo for the 2004-2008 Nissan Maxima. It produces 120 amps. Detail information:

Hitachi 120 AMP Alternator 

  • Car Quest #11017A
  • Pure Energy # 13940N
  • Hitachi #LR1110710FAM
  • Plug 306
  • 2 1/2” Pulley, 17mm shaft
  • OE Manufacturer: Valeo

I ordered the Connector plug or “pigtail,” from National Quick Start Sales: http://store.alternatorparts.com/partnoc1900.aspx

Part # C1900 Hitachi, Mando, and Mitsubishi Alternator Wiring Repair Plug, Female. Alternator Wiring Harness Repair Connector with 2 Female Terminals

Being Japanese, the mounts for the alternator are obviously metric – and of different sizes! 18mm on rear bolt and 15mm on the front bolt with a 5/8″ wrench on both nuts.

The power input post for the Hitachi alternator is, unfortunately for me, on the top of the alternator when it is mounted to the motor. In this position, the top of the post is only about 1/4″ from the bottom of the steal air conditioner compressor mounting bracket. This can be seen in the image below:

Alternator Power Post

Alternator Power Post

Obviously, this is not a good situation. Bill Rader, owner of Blue Sky Radiator and Electrical came to my rescue! He was able to place an adapter on the alternator that redirected to power post to the rear of the alternator thereby eliminating my problem.

Redirected Power Post on Alternator

Redirected Power Post on Alternator

Battery

To be determined.

Distributor

I had such good fortune with the Dutch “123” electronic distributor in my Big Healey, that I chose to use the same product in the MK2. The Jag does use a different model, number “Jag 6-R-V.” The unit offers 16 different advance-curves, that can be selected via a little switch. Information on the Forums suggests that the #1 or #2 advance curve may be the best to use with the 3.8 Jag motor with total advance of no more than 34 degrees. In our test runs of the engine we did NOT connect the vacuum line to the distributor. I will need to do additional research before settling in on a particular setting.

123 Electronic Distributor

123 Electronic Distributor

 

SPECIFICATIONS
direct. : CCW (topview)
voltage : 4,0-15,0 Volts
range : 500 – 7000 rpm
temperature : -30 to 85 Celsius
coil : stock or High Energy coil
  primary coil NOT below 1,0 ohm
dwell : constant current, fully autom.
time-out : after 1 second current is switched off
spark-bal. : better than 0,5 degr. crankshaft
vacuum : advance starts at 5 inchHg
  stops at 10 degr. @ 10 inchHg
  gearshift retard > 17 inchHg
max.advance : 45 degr. crankshaft
wiring : red = +6V or +12V, black = ‘-‘ coil

 

Installation instructions are available here:

123 JAG6 Distributor Installation Instructions

There is considerable debate in the Jaguar community about the the vacuum advance for the 123 distributor if used on the 3.8 engine. Some say to not connect the vacuum advance, others say to use the ported vacuum advance port on the carburetor, but my friend Mike Gassman, from Gassman Automotive has suggested that performance will be safely enhanced by using direct manifold vacuum. This article  written by a retired General Motors engineer corroborates Mike’s thinking. Ported Vacuum vs Manifold Vacuum.

I am going to try the manifold vacuum for my project and see how the engine performs. I have decided to split the vacuum hose that connects the manifold and the brake reserve tank with a “T” connector. The smaller connection is then routed to the vacuum port on the 123 distributor. If you choose to do this, DO SO AT YOUR OWN RISK! Manufacturers would recommend against doing anything that might compromise braking vacuum but in my opinion, and that of others, the reserve tank provides more than ample vacuum pressure for the braking system.

Vacuum Line to Distributor

Vacuum Line to Distributor

 

Ignition Coil

The original Lucas coil was replaced with a “Flame Thrower”  high output, 3.0 ohm, 40,000 volt, internally resisted unit made by Pertronix, model number 40501. The coil has such a prominent place on the engine that I wanted it to look nice with the polished cam covers. Consequently, I opted to go with the chrome case for the “bling” effect, but it is also available in black.

Pertronix Ignition Coil 40501

Pertronix Ignition Coil 40501

Ignition – Spark Plug Wiring

I elected to purchase a ridiculously expensive assembled wiring conduit kit for Pertronix ignition from XKs Unlimited using 7mm black wire. The spark plug and coil ends are pre-installed.

Spark Plug High Tension Wiring with Conduit

Spark Plug High Tension Wiring with Conduit

Spark Plugs

I am using NGK BPR5ES plugs with a 0.045 gap as recommended by Paul Salt on the Saloon-Lovers Jag Forum for solid wires with no resistors. BP5ES otherwise.

Starter

“High Torque” or “Gear Reduction” starters are available for the MK2 3.8. These starters are considerably smaller and lighter than the original Lucas starter, but more importantly they have considerably more cranking power. The starter can be set up to either use or eliminate the original starter solenoid and I decided to keep the original set-up. I sourced the new starter from SNG Barratt.

SNG Barratt High Torque Starter

SNG Barratt High Torque Starter

The starter is located on the right side of the engine and is secured to the bell housing with two 3/8″-24 x 1/12″ hex head bolts, flat washers and split washers. I am using the original starter solenoid on the firewall so it is necessary to connect the short jumper wire to the + terminal of the starter upon installation. Since it is a bit crowded once the starter is mounted I attached the cable from the starter to the starter solenoid before installation of the starter. A rubber boot was used to cover the terminal. It will be connected to the firewall starter solenoid after the engine is mounted in the car.

Starter Installed on Engine

Starter Installed on Engine

Starter Installed on Engine - Close-up

Starter Installed on Engine – Close-up

 

Starter Solenoid

I am using a new reproduction solenoid. This is an image of a trial fitting of the solenoid on the Weather Protection Flange on the firewall.

Adaptor Plate Assembly for Solenoid and Solenoid Weather Protection Flange

Adaptor Plate Assembly for Solenoid and Solenoid Weather Protection Flange

Upgraded Brake Switch

I had planned to replace the MK2’s original hydraulic brake switch that activates the rear brake lights when the brakes are applied. The hydraulic switches currently available seem to experience a higher than normal failure rate. I encountered this same issue with my Austin-Healey 3000. In the Healey I replaced the hydraulic switch with a plug in the 4-way adaptor and installed a mechanical switch at the brake pedal. The wiring is the same as for the electrical switch. The mechanical switch was sourced from Watson’s Streetworks.

While I purchased the Watson’s switch to use in the MK2, I also found that Ron Francis Wiring sells an updated low pressure hydraulic switch that looks and mounts like the original. I decided to give this switch a try.

Ron Francis Hydraulic Brake Switch SW-32

Ron Francis Hydraulic Brake Switch SW-32

Horns

The horns are located at the front of the car and on either side of the engine compartment immediately below the radiator. My 1964 MK2 was equipped with horn model number WT (Wind Tone) 618U. I media blasted the two horns after stuffing the Flute with paper to avoid getting sand in the workings. I then took the domed covers off the high and low tone horns and painted each horn with POR-15 and overcoated with their spray Blackcoat product. I then sent the horns to E. Lawrie Rhoades, 7 Knollwood Rd, Medfield, MA 02052-2703 to have the electrical mechanism cleaned and tuned. Lawrie is a recognized expert on horn and wiper motor repair.

Horn Assemblies

Horn Assemblies

Horn Internals

Horn Internals

Horn Mounting Brackets

Both of the horn mounting brackets were also media blasted and painted with the POR-15 products. As the Service Manual indicates, the bracket is important in providing a ground to the horn, therefore, “Care should be taken in ensuring a good contact between the earth strap and horn bracket on the left hand horn.”  The horn is  secured to the bracket with two 1/4″ – 28 x  3/4″ hex head bolts with shakeproof washers and 1/4″ – 24 hex head nuts. The bracket is fastened to the bumper bracket with a single 3/8″ -24 x 7/8″ hex head bolt with both a flat washer and a shakeproof washer followed by a 3/8″ – 24 hex nut.

The LH Horn is the Low note horn and the RH Horn is the high note horn.

This image illustrates the connection of the ground wire to the car’s frame. the wire eyelet is fastened to the frame with a 1/4″ – 28 x 1/2″ hex head bolt, shakeproof washer and a 1/4″ -24 hex nut.

Horn Ground Wire

Horn Ground Wire

Horn Mounting Brackets

Horn Mounting Bracket

This image illustrates mounting and orientation of the horns below the radiator:

Horn Orientation

Horn Orientation

Headlamp Dipper Switch

The Headlamp Dipper Switch was in good condition and was cleaned for reuse. The switch is secured to the floorboard with two #10 – 32 x 1 7/8″ hex head bolts through distance pieces with shake proof washers. A rubber cap is pushed over the end of the foot switch.

The upper part of the switch base plate is the shorter side with the mounting screw hole offset to the right. This orientation is instructive for the proper location of the switch wiring on the three terminals. The terminal farthest to the right has the blue/red single wire, the lowest terminal (closest to the floor) has the single solid blue wire, and the left most terminal has two blue/white wires.

Headlamp Dipper Switch

Headlamp Dipper Switch

Dipper Switch Wiring

Dipper Switch Wiring

Headlamp Dipper Switch

Headlamp Dipper Switch

Headlamp Dipper Switch

Headlamp Dipper Switch

Renewed Dipper Switch

Renewed Dipper Switch

Renewed Dipper Switch

Renewed Dipper Switch

 

Direction Indicator/Headlamp Flasher

My MK2 has a Model 85 unit. I cleaned the assembly. The wiring appeared to be in very good condition but the nylon “spring” that catches the arm in the left or right position was broken.

Direction Indicator/Headlamp Flasher Switch

Direction Indicator/Headlamp Flasher Switch

Turn Indicator Flasher Side View

Turn Indicator Flasher Side View

There was a time when Lucas made and sold repair kits to replace the nylon spring. Today they are a challenge to find but they do come up on ebay from time to time. I was able to purchase two of the repair kits. The kit includes the spring and the rivet used to hold the components together.

Lucas Turn Indicator Spring Set

Lucas Turn Indicator Spring Set

Turn Indicator Nylon Spring

Turn Indicator Nylon Spring

To replace the spring one removes two slotted screws from the plastic electrical fitting. This must be done carefully as there are a total of four springs between the aluminum housing and the plastic fitting.

Turn Indicator Springs

Turn Indicator Springs

Once the electrical fitting is removed one has access to the rivet that must be drilled/cut out.

Turn Indicator Disassembly

Turn Indicator Disassembly

Turn Indicator Rivet

Turn Indicator Rivet

It is a tedious and somewhat challenging task to install the new rivet. I actually visited Mike Gassman of Gassman Automotive to help me with the install.

Turn Indicator Rivet

Turn Indicator Rivet

I held the assembly in place over a steel rod while Mike used several punches to get the job done. We didn’t do as well as the factory but we succeeded.

After placing all of the electrical contacts, springs and nylon/plastic components in their proper place one carefully places the black electrical fitting over the assembly and compresses carefully while a friend (spouse) inserts and tightens the two screws that hold the assembly together. This little piece consumed a lot of energy and time, but now functions as new!

Turn Signal Indicator Lights

The MK2 used a short pigtail harness to connect the turn signal switch, the flasher relay and the indicator bulbs located on the steering column. My original harness was in very good condition and will be reinstalled after cleaning. Three warning bulbs are provided in the harness.

Turn Signal and Overdrive Indicator Bulbs, Holders, and Pigtail

Turn Signal and Overdrive Indicator Bulbs, Holders, and Pigtail

The LH bulb for the LH turn signal, the center bulb to indicate overdrive engagement and the RH bulb for the RH turn signal. The two turn signal indicator bulbs are replaced with green BA7 LED micro bayonet bulbs and the overdrive bulb is a clear white BA7. Bulbs were sourced from 4sightautomotive lighting at http://www.bettercarlighting.co.uk. This image shows the original bulb as well as the LED replacement:

2 Watt Liliput Turn Signal Indicator Bulb and Replacement BA7LED Green Micro Bayonet Bulb

2 Watt Liliput Turn Signal Indicator Bulb and Replacement BA7LED Green Micro Bayonet Bulb

I am also using LED flasher bulbs at each of the four corners of the car. Using the LED bulbs requires a LED flasher relay that is incorporated into the Classic Technologies Relay/fuse panel that I am using for my electrical system. The pigtail is held in place by a small bracket located on the backside of the LH Fascia Board Assembly and the bulbs plug into the Upper Switch Cover Assembly at Centre of Steering Wheel.

Turn Signal and Overdrive Indicator Bulbs, Holders, Pigtail and Mounting Bracket on LH Fascia Board Assembly

Turn Signal and Overdrive Indicator Bulbs, Holders, Pigtail and Mounting Bracket on LH Fascia Board Assembly

Overdrive Operating Switch

This switch which activates the electric overdrive is located on the right side of the steering column. Power is derived from fuse position #14 on the CT fuse box. With lever activation a signal is sent to the overdrive interlock, or top gear switch located on the top of the gearbox and then to the overdrive solenoid. A warning indicator bulb is illuminated when the overdrive is engaged.

Switch, on Gearbox Top Cover, Operating Reversing Light and Top Gear for Overdrive Unit

These two switches are identical. As indicated, both are located on the gearbox. I purchased new switches, but found after testing that both original switches worked fine so I left the original switches in place.

Overdrive Interlock or Top Gear Switch at gearbox

Overdrive Interlock or Top Gear Switch at gearbox

Original and New Lucas Overdrive and Reverse Switch

Original and New Lucas Overdrive and Reverse Switch

Oil Pressure Element

The Oil Pressure element or sensor is located directly above the Oil Filter Assembly on the RH side of the cylinder block. I replaced the element with a new Lucas item.Oil Pressure Element

Oil Pressure Element Mounted

Oil Pressure Element Mounted

Gauges, Instruments and Switches

Gauges, Instruments and Switches

Smiths and Lucas

Lucas was the primary provider of things electric incorporated in the Jaguar MK2 and for that matter most other British cars of the period. Smiths, another British automotive parts manufacturer produced instruments/gauges, heaters, clocks and radios among other components. Eric Kriss, a fellow MK2 restorer, has an excellent history of the relationship of Lucas and Smiths on his Blog: http://fairislepress.com/WP/?p=3736.

The speedometer and tachometer are located immediately behind the steering wheel directly in the driver’s view. Most of the other gauges, instruments and switches are located in the Instrument Panel Assembly in the center of the interior’s dash.

I sent all of my instruments to Nisonger http://www.nisonger.com for cleaning, calibrating and refurbishing where necessary.

Tachometer

Nisonger converted the tach to a negative ground electronic tachometer. These are the instructions for installation:Nisonger Electronic Tach Instructions

Clock

On the MK2, the clock is located inside the tachometer. I removed the clock (loosening two machine screws on the back of the clock/tachometer) and sent it to Mike Eck,  [email protected] to have repaired as it was not functioning. He  also convert the clock to negative ground.

Clock/Tach

Clock/Tach

Clock/Tach

Clock/Tach

Speedometer/Speedometer Cable

I gently cleaned the speedometer and mailed it to Nisonger with the other gauges. It came back in beautiful condition.

Speedometer

Speedometer

As part of the preliminary install process I added the new speedometer cable – 96″ variety in the engine bay. It is secured by one clip just above the steering column. It is then routed over the top of the gearbox to the passenger side of the car. I have researched how the cable is to be properly secured under the car as it routes to the fitting on the gearbox, but as of December 2016 I have yet to learn anything definitive.  Consequently, I have temporarily zip-tied the cable to the fuel line along the passenger side chassis rail as seen below. The objective is to mount the cable in such a way that it has direct unimpeded access to the gearbox fitting with no cable binding. 

Speedometer Cable Install

Speedometer Cable Install

Speedometer Cable Mounting

Speedometer Cable Mounting

Instrument Panel Assembly

Instrument Panel Assembly

Instrument Panel Assembly

In numerous Jaguar models the interior designers incorporated a handsome centrally-located gauge and switch panel. The panel is made of pressed steel with a copper bath and is hinged at the lower edge of the panel. The hinges are mounted to fixed nuts in the bodywork by four 1/4″-24 x 1/2″  hex head bolts with shockproof and plain washers. Loosening two thumbscrews at the top of the panel makes it possible to easily rotate the panel to access the wiring for the gauges and switches at rear of the panel.

Instrument Panel Assembly Face

Instrument Panel Assembly Face

Instrument Panel Assembly

Instrument Panel Assembly

Following the removal of all of the toggle switches and instruments I cleaned the panel assembly. Amazingly the vinyl material on the face of the panel was in very good shape. However, I decided to replace it with a similar material sourced from Aldridge Trimmers in the UK. I did so because I plan to cover the mounting panel for the air conditioning central vents, located immediately below the instrument panel, with vinyl and I want the materials on the two panels to match. The vinyl was secured to the panel with 3m Super 77 spray adhesive.

While not the same as the original Rexine Leathercloth, the grain is almost identical. Eric Kriss researched the Rexine product determining that is was made by Rexine Ltd. of Hyde, England. The leathercloth was actually cloth “impregnated with cellulose nitrate, camphor oil, pigment and alcohol and then embossed to look somewhat like leather.” Eric located this wonderful advertisement for Rexine:

Im19291011LC-Rex

 

The lighting and identification label strip for the toggle switches is comprised of several components.These images show the diffuser screen after clean-up.

Diffuser Screen

Diffuser Screen

There are three bayonet style bulbs spaced evenly along the bottom of the panel assembly. I have replaced these incandescent bulbs with BA7 LEDs.

2 Watt Liliput bulb and replacement BA7LED white micro bayonet bulb

2 Watt Liliput bulb and replacement BA7LED white micro bayonet bulb

This is an image of my finished instrument panel assembly showing the new vinyl, restored gauges and switches:

MK2 Instrument Panel Assembly

MK2 Instrument Panel Assembly

As one can see, the panel includes four gauges: an electric water temperature gauge, an electric oil pressure gauge, an electric fuel gauge and a voltmeter. The car originally had a ammeter in the place of the voltmeter, but since I converted my car from the original dynamo (generator) to and alternator it made much more sense to install a voltmeter to monitor the electrical system.

Instrument Panel Assembly Gauges

Water Temperature Gauge

The Smith’s electric water temperature gauge has two electrical terminal connections. One, for voltage to the gauge sourced from a solid state voltage regulator (stabilizer) located behind the instrument panel, and the second, for the temperature input from the sensor located in the intake manifold. The voltage regulator reduces the voltage to the gauge from 12 to 10 volts. The gauge is illuminated by a dedicated BA9ES White LED, replacing the original incandescent bulb. The blue filter was removed from the gauge to provide an improved white light. The image below shows the original incandescent gauge light bulb and the BA9ES White LED now used in each of the gauges.

Original Incandescent Gauge Light Bulb and BA9ES LED

Original Incandescent Gauge Light Bulb and BA9ES LED

Oil Pressure Gauge

The Smith’s oil pressure gauge assesses pressure up to 60 psi. The gauge has two electrical terminal connections. One, for voltage sourced from the 12 volt terminal on the voltage regulator, and the second, for the pressure input from a sensor device (transmitter) located at the oil filter housing. To reduce signal noise for the optional radio, Jaguar incorporated a capacitor (condenser) with the sender. The gauge is illuminated by a dedicated BA9ES White LED, replacing the original incandescent bulb. The blue filter was removed from the gauge to provide an improved white light. Eric Kriss provides an informative diagram on his blog that illustrates the functional aspects of the oil pressure sender:

Oil Pressure Sender

Oil Pressure Sender

Fuel Gauge

The Smith’s fuel gauge works much the same as the water temperature gauge. The gauge has two electrical terminal connections: One, for voltage to the gauge sourced from a 10 volt terminal at the solid state voltage regulator (stabilizer) located behind the instrument panel, and the second, for the fuel level input from the sender located in the fuel tank. The gauge is illuminated by a dedicated BA9ES White LED, replacing the original incandescent bulb. The blue filter was removed from the gauge to provide an improved white light.

Voltmeter/Ammeter

With the installation of an alternator replacing the original dynamo (generator) it makes more sense to have a voltmeter among the dash gauges. So I replaced the ammeter with a Smiths voltmeter sourced from Caerbont Automotive Instruments through Rogers Motors an ebay vendor.

One typically finds the voltmeter with a chrome half-“V” bezel, but Rogers will supply the full “V” bezel to match the bezels on the MK2, and it can be ordered in black. The only problem I ran into is that the black paint on the bezels did not match. The new bezel being too glossy. I took it apart and painted the bezel satin black – still too shiny. I then scuffed it up and repainted flat black – not shiny enough! Finally, I just took the bezel off of the ammeter and fit it to the new voltmeter and now all is well. Getting the black full “V” bezel was an extra $15.00. It comes standard with chrome. If you do what I did, save your extra $15.

The original instruments are in a metal casing. The new voltmeter is plastic. The bezel on the ammeter rotates and then slips off when the bezel tabs line up with slots in the casing. On the plastic casing you have to carefully bend up the bezel tabs and after installing on the plastic casing bend them down to grip the plastic. On the plastic casing there are no slots for alignment.

Voltmeter to Replace Ammeter

Voltmeter to Replace Ammeter

These are the installation instructions provided with the gauge:

Voltmeter Installation Instructions

Some notes about voltmeters from the mgaguru.com:

“The volt meter is a high resistance low current device which can be connected directly across the battery. In practice you can connect the earth side of the volt meter to any convenient chassis ground point. It is a good idea to connect the signal side of the volt meter to a circuit which is switched by the ignition switch, so it will be disconnected from the battery when the car is parked. It is convient to connect it to the output side of the ignition switch.

Connect the volt meter + and – terminals to battery + and – respectively. If you get it wrong the meter will peg on zero with power on. When correct it read near mid scale, hopefully a bit above 12 volts with engine running. When you blow the horn it will dip just slightly lower. When you crank the engine for starting expect the battery voltage to drop noticeably lower (hopefully not below 10 volts).

Additionally the volt meter can give you indication of the state of charge of the battery. Switch off all lights and accessories, switch off the engine, and switch on the key without starting the engine. If the volt meter reads 12 volts or more the battery is near full charge. If the volt meter is showing much less than 12 volts, then either the battery is somewhat discharged, or the battery is failing and in need of replacement.”

 

Switches and Other Panel Components

The instrument panel assembly includes six toggle switches, a rotary light switch, a starter button, the ignition switch and what Jaguar referred to as a “Cigar” lighter. The toggle switches are “off” when switched to their lowest position on the panel.

Washer  Switch

The washer switch is a momentary switch activated when the toggle is pushed upward. When released the toggle reverts to its lowest “at rest” position. The switch has two electrical terminal connections. One, to ground connected to a post on the back of the panel, and the second, to the washer bottle motor. My original switch was broken so I installed a new one from SNG Barratt.

Wiper Switch

I chose to upgrade my wiper motor with a kit supplied by Classic Motor Cars in the U.K. Installation of the wiper system is detailed in another posting: https://valvechatter.com/?p=6612

The kit uses a model 29 W Lucas Motor, part# 75967D that I believe was used for XJ series Jags in the eighties and early nineties with a modified original switch to operate the system. The kit also included new control boxes and a wiper rack cable. There are seven electrical terminal connections on the switch. One, to ground on the back of the panel, another to the fuse panel for power, and the remaining five wires route to the wiper motor for the two speed and park function.

Map Switch and Panel Switch Repurposing

The third toggle switch from the left on the instrument panel assembly was originally designed as a switch to turn on a map light that is provided just under the Screen Rail Capping Assembly (wood dash top). The panel switch (second from the right) was originally intended to alternate the panel lights between bright and dim settings. It is hard to fathom why Jaguar viewed this as necessary given that even the bright setting of the switch still provided grossly inadequate lighting, at least by today’s standards.

Eric Kriss, in his MK2 restoration, decided to repurpose these two switches to enable the possibility of an integrated hazard (flasher) circuit in his electrical system. With his permission and invaluable instruction I decided to adopt Eric’s modification in my own car.

Therefore, in my MK2, the panel switch sacrifices the bright/dim feature and is repurposed to control the panel and gauge lights as well as the map light. It then becomes possible to utilize the original map light switch as a hazard switch. The panel switch is a three position OFF-ON-ON switch. The middle setting is now used to turn on the three translucent strip edge lights on the panel as well as the gauge lights. The upper setting is now used to also turn on the map light.

The image below shows the original map light and also the new LED strip that will replace the single incandescent bulb:

Original Incandescent Map Light and LED Map Light

Original Incandescent Map Light and LED Map Light

Terminal #4 on the panel switch is used to connect to the power source at the fuse panel. Terminal #6 connects to the map light and terminal #7 has two wires with one connecting the four LEDs in each of the panel gauges and the other connecting to the three LEDs in the lower section of the panel to illuminate the label strip.

Hazard Switch

As described above the map light switch is repurposed to serve as a switch to activate the hazard flashers. I had actually purchased a new reproduction hazard switch but I never liked that it appeared as an “add-on” device and the warning was a bit complicated. Implementing Eric’s repurposing plan integrates the hazard function into the instrument panel assembly. The wiring connections for the switch are addressed in the post documenting the new wiring harness.

Starter Button Switch

The original starter button was cleaned and reused. The switch has two electrical terminal screw connections. One to the fuse panel, and the second, to the ignition switch at the ING terminal.

Ignition Switch

My original switch functioned just fine, so I decided to just clean it and reinstall. On my ignition switch there are three electrical terminal connections: B+, IGN and ACC. All three are wired to various positions in the Classic technologies fuse panel. The IGN terminal has a double terminal connector to permit wiring to the starter button switch.

Fan Switch (57SA)

The fan switch has three positions: the lower position is “off.” The middle position is “Low Speed” and the upper position is “High Speed.” The wire to terminal # 4 is the power source.  Terminal #8 is the high speed fan connection and terminal #6 is the low speed connection.

Interior (light) Switch

The interior light switch is a simple “ON-OFF” switch. Again, following Eric Kriss’s lead I have modified the interior light circuit. Originally, the switch when moved to the upward position activates the B/C pillar lights as well as the the rear interior lights and interacted with the four door switches. In our modified circuit, the cubby light/switch and the boot light/switch are included. The switch has two electrical terminal connections.  One to ground on the back side of the panel, and the second, to the various lights and switches incorporated in the modified circuit. Additional information about the interior lights may be found at the “Interior Lights” post.

Light Switch

The rotary Lucas three position light switch actually has four settings:

O – Off

S – Side/Tail/License Lights plus others if switched

H – S + Headlights

F – S + H + Foglights

Lucas Three Position Light Switch

Lucas Three Position Light Switch

Terminal #3 of the light switch has two connections. One, to the chime that has been added in my wiring plan to warn the driver if the lights have been left on upon exiting the car, and the second, to the exterior lights. Terminal #5 is connected to the fuse panel providing current to the switch. Terminal #6 is connected to a relay for the Fogranger lamps. Terminal #7 is connected to the floor dipper switch for the headlights.

DIAGRAM TO BE ADDED

Cigar Lighter

Jaguar incorporated a cigar lighter in the instrument panel assembly. I purchased a new cigar lighter from SNG Barratt and will use this as an alternative power supply for a 12-volt accessory plug. The lighter has two electrical terminal connections. One, to ground connected to a post on the back of the panel, and the second, to the fuse panel. The wire on the second terminal connects through a 4-way snap connector with a wire for the radio and for a supplementary USB port.

Chime

All vehicles today have chimes or alarms to alert the driver that the lights have been left on upon exiting a car. I thought it a good idea to incorporate this feature in the wiring schematic for the MK2. I used a very inexpensive chime available from Radio Shack, part # 273-071B. The chime is wired to Terminal #3 of the light switch and to the driver’s door (LH) switch. It is located on the back side of the instrument panel assembly.

Radio Shack Chime for Headlight Warning

Radio Shack Chime for Headlight Warning

Voltage Regulator/Stabilizer

Although new reproductions of the original Lucas voltage regulator for the instrument panel gauges referenced earlier are available, a better alternative is to use a modern electronic unit for greater reliability. It is available from CoolCat Express Corp: http://tinyurl.com/k9zayo2

These are the instructions for the installation of the voltage regulator:

SSIVR Installation Instructions

This little device receives fluctuating DC current from the battery and outputs a steady 10 volts to enhance the accuracy of the gauge readings.

Voltage Stabilizer Wiring

Voltage Stabilizer Wiring

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Battery Relocation to the Boot

Battery Relocation to the Boot

Installing the RetroAir air conditioning kit requires the relocation of the battery, and the most commonly used place is the shelf in the MK2 boot. The RetroAir kit provided a plastic battery box, battery cable and various connectors, but I chose to “upgrade” the kits components.

Battery Cable Lugs

First I decided to use battery lugs to take the battery cable through the boot floor rather than taking the cable directly through a rubber grommet in the floor. I used Waytek’s “Battery Feeder Stud” for this purpose. http://www.waytekwire.com/products/ One in black for the ground cable, part# 36663, and one in red for the power cable, part# 3662. I located these to the right of the battery mounting.

Waytek Battery Lugs

Waytek Battery Lugs

Battery Lugs Mounted - Under Carriage View

Battery Lugs Mounted – Under Carriage View

Battery Lug Rubber Covers

I found some rubber covers for the battery terminals and lugs that work quite well. They were sourced on-line from the Electrical Hub.

http://www.electricalhub.com/battery-terminals-and-lugs/insulator-battery-boots

Battery Terminals and Lugs Rubber Covers

Battery Terminals and Lugs Rubber Covers

Battery Hold Down Mount

While the plastic box provided in the RetroAir kit would certainly work, it took up considerable space as well as not being very attractive – even if it does go in the boot! I chose to use a Billet Specialties product http://www.billetspecialties.com, part# 248910, that in my opinion is both attractive and space saving. I mounted this as far to the right side of the car as possible. The tray mounts to the boot floor with four 1/4″ – 24 x 1″ hex head stainless bolts, flat and shake proof washers.

Markings to Locate Battery Tray

Markings to Locate Battery Tray

Billet Specilaties Battery Tray Mounted

Billet Specialties Battery Tray Mounted

I intend to make a carpet-covered plywood panel to hide the rear compartment of the boot. Similar to this one:

Boot Panel

Boot Panel

Battery Isolator Switch

And, I will install a Waytek battery Isolator Switch with a detachable key, part# 44075, in the upper right corner of the panel. It certainly won’t stop professional car thieves but it does provide one more deterrent to the criminal. The lower photo shows the Optima Red Top battery (borrowed from my Austin Healey for fitting purposes) and the approximate location of the isolator switch. A 20″ red power lead  part #35976 also from Waytek was used to provide the connection from the battery to the red lug. A 15″ black ground lead, part number 35965, was used to connect the battery to the black lug.

Waytek Battery Isolator Switch

Waytek Battery Isolator Switch

Battery Mounted with Isolator Switch

Battery Mounted with Isolator Switch

Battery Cable to the Engine Bay

I debated about running the battery cable along the RH frame rail or to route the cable through the interior to the engine bay. I ultimately decided to mount it on the frame rail. The brake line to the rear axle and the fuel line from the fuel filter in the engine bay to the fuel pump also run along the RH frame rail.

I used a combination of single and double stainless steel clamps to secure the battery cable, brake line and fuel line to the frame. http://tinyurl.com/kuzn3k8  The upper clip was used for the battery cable and the fuel and brake lines were housed in the lower clip.

Double Line Clamp

Double Line Clamp

I used #10-24 rivet nuts or nut serts set into the frame rail to attach the clamps. The rivets require a 19/64″ hole in the metal stock and conveniently the holes already in the frame for the original brake/fuel line spring clips were that size of at east very close to it. This meant that I did not have to drill any new holes. The rivet nuts are easy to install using an inexpensive little tool. The nuts are screwed on to the threaded rod and inserted into the frame hole. One holds the larger nut (7/8″) stationary while tightening the outside smaller (11/16″) nut. This pulls the nut firmly against the frame rail creating essentially a captive nut.

Rivet Nuts and Tool

Rivet Nuts and Tool

#10-24 Rivet nut installed in frame

#10-24 Rivet nut installed in frame

The following images show the installation of the cable and brake/fuel lines. The battery cables runs from the lugs below the boot floor. the black ground cable is securely bolted to the frame while the red cable runs to the engine bay.

Wiring From Battery Lugs

Wiring From Battery Lugs

I left some slack in the cables because I still need to install the rear suspension torque arm and panhard rod which may require moving the cables a bit.

Spaghetti?

Spaghetti?

Battery Cable Routing from Rear Lugs to Starter Solenoid

Battery Cable Routing from Rear Lugs to Starter Solenoid

I will cut the cable to the desired length, solder a terminal on the end and mount it on the rear-most solenoid terminal post after more engine bay items are mounted.

Battery Cable Routed from Boot to Starter solenoid

Battery Cable Routed from Boot to Starter solenoid

The image below shows the battery cable trimmed to the proper length, covered with Techflex F6 wire sheathing and mounted to the front-most post on the starter solenoid. The cable to the starter is mounted to the rear-most post on the starter solenoid. Total cable length was about 150 inches.

Starter Solenoid, Battery Cable, Starter Cable

Starter Solenoid, Battery Cable, Starter Cable

This image shows the final cable locations in the rear after the rear suspension components were installed:

Battery Cables from Boot Final Adjustment

 

 

 

 

 

 

New Wiring Harness Circuits

Power Inputs to the Classic Technologies’ Relay/Fuse Panel

The Classic Technologies Panel has four primary connections.

Classic Technology's Relay Fuse Panel

Classic Technologies’ Relay Fuse Panel

A – 12V power input from the small fuse box (battery B+) to power the accessories circuits. A brown 12 AWG wire is used to the Yellow screw terminal spade lug connection.

B – 12V power input from the small fuse box (battery B+) to power the high and low beam headlight relays. A brown/blue 14 AWG wire is used to the Blue screw terminal spade lug connection.

C – 12V power input from the small fuse box (battery B+) to power the constant power circuits in the vehicle. A brown 12 AWG wire is used to the Red screw terminal for a spade lug termination.

O – ground or earth to the car’s chassis.

In my case, 12V power is routed from the battery in the trunk to the starter solenoid mounted centrally on the firewall in the engine bay. The negative terminal of the battery is wired to the car’s chassis. A ground strap is used to connect the grounded chassis to the engine/gearbox.

Ground Strap Mounted

Ground Strap Mounted

The battery relocation to the boot was addressed in a previous post.From the solenoid, a brown 8 AWG wire delivers power to a small fuse box with six circuits mounted on the firewall directly below the starter solenoid. I used two nutserts for the mounting to the firewall.  Three of the six fused circuits are then used to provide power to three input terminals on the Classic Technologies’ relay/fuse panel. The additional three are spares for the moment.

OnLine-LED-Store Six-Way Fuse Box

OnLine-LED-Store Six-Way Fuse Box

This is a diagram of the wiring to the Relay/Fuse Panel:

Rose Jaguar MK2 Power to the Classic Technologies Fuse Box

Rose Jaguar MK2 Power to the Classic Technologies Fuse Box

Six Way Firewall Fuse Box Delivering Power to Classic Tech Relay:Fuse Panel

Six Way Firewall Fuse Box Delivering Power to Classic Tech Relay:Fuse Panel

The three wires from the small firewall fuse box, the white/red wire from the solenoid to the fuse panel and the heavy 4 AWG cable from the solenoid to the alternator will be “packaged” together in one TechFlex sleeve/cover.

Before getting into the allocation of the thirty-four fuse positions available to use in the Classic Technologies Relay/Fuse panel, it might be helpful to once again point point out that as indicated in the post on new wiring harness connectors I developed a spreadsheet to be used in conjunction with wiring diagrams. The spreadsheet lists all connection points of the electrical wiring system. Links are provided below:

Again, a disclaimer is appropriate: The spreadsheet is provided as guidance for those who might wish to do something similar, but it should not be duplicated or utilized without careful inspection and  approval by a certified automotive electrician.

This alphabetical listing of components is provided to help quickly identify items in the electrical system. A spreadsheet line number(s) associated with the component is indicated.

Rose Jaguar MK2 Electrical Connections Alpha listing

This is the spreadsheet showing all connections:

Rose Jaguar MK2 Electrical Connections Spreadsheet

The following four diagrams illustrate the wiring sourced from the thirty-four fused positions in the system. Please let me know if as a reader you note an error or an omission. I apologize for the somewhat primitive diagrams as I did not have proper software available to do the job. I resorted to “Keynote” a presentation software to complete the task.

Rose Jaguar MK2 Fuse Positions 1-8

Rose Jaguar MK2 Fuse Positions 1-8

Rose Jaguar MK2 Fuse Positions 9-16

Rose Jaguar MK2 Fuse Positions 9-16

Rose Jaguar MK2 Fuse Positions 17-25

Rose Jaguar MK2 Fuse Positions 17-25

Rose Jaguar MK2 Fuse Positions 26-34

Rose Jaguar MK2 Fuse Positions 26-34

 

Circuit Modifications & Additions

Several of the modifications I am making to my MK2 require either modified or new electrical circuits. I highlight below the details of some of these wiring changes.

Starter Solenoid

I replaced the original starter solenoid with a new one sourced from SNG Barratt. The large post closest to the firewall provides the mounting for the 4 AWG cable to the starter. The large post closest to the engine mounts three cables: the 2AWG cable from the battery, the 4AWG cable to the block connector on the electrical panel on the LH engine bay valance (ultimately to the alternator), and a 8AWG wire to the 6-way firewall fuse panel. On the upper small post on the solenoid a single wire from the starter button is attached.

Alternator

I have considerably more power requirements in my car than could be addressed by the original dynamo/generator.

The specifics of the Hitachi 120 amp alternator I am using may be found under the “electrical components” posting. However, I will detail the wiring to support the alternator here.

I decided to go with 4AWG cable and also decided to install a fuse in the line between the alternator and the wiring system to avoid any possibility of a problem with a power surge created by a bad regulator in the alternator.

I sourced the cable and fuse from CE Auto Electric Supply. The folks at CE Auto Electric Supply are very helpful and they sell high quality products. Both products are typically used in high-end sound system applications. This particular cable has 1,862 strands. The cable was terminated with 3/8″ terminals, properly crimped and covered with adhesive shrink tubing.

Alternator Cable CE Supply 4AWG 1862 Strands

Alternator Cable CE Supply 4AWG 1862 Strands

I installed a JL audio premium series master ANL fuse block with a 125 amp “Stinger” ANL style fuse, part number SPF52125 on the lower right portion of the original fuse panel.

ANL 125 Amp Fuse with J&L Holder

ANL 125 Amp Fuse with J&L Holder

Two three-quarter inch long machine screws were used to secure the fuse block to the panel. On one I was able to take advantage of the 10–32 captured nut that was already on the fuse panel, and on the other I used a nutsert with the 10-24 screw.

One of the nice features of this particular fuse block is that the ProStar hexagonal posts can be rotated so that the cable can approach from almost any angle. As you can see in the photo, I took advantage of this feature. After the engine is installed, the alternator cable will be cut to proper length.

As can be seen in the image, the cable from the ANL fuse connects to a connector block also used for the power steering.

Alternator Fuse Mounted

Alternator Fuse Mounted

The cable is then routed from the connector block along the LH valance and the firewall to the starter solenoid. It is difficult to track because of all of the in-process wiring, but the path of the alternator cable is visible in the image below:

Alternator Cable Wiring

Alternator Cable Wiring

Power Steering Pump

The installation of the power-assisted rack and pinion steering requires the conversion to negative earth and the installation of an alternator replacing the original dynamo/generator. The kit, as supplied, provided a Lucas 80 amp LMA 604 alternator. However, due to other electrical requirements I chose to upgrade to a 120 amp Hitachi alternator. Details about the alternator are found at this link: https://valvechatter.com/?p=4113.

M&C Wilkinson provided wiring instructions, but my configuration is slightly different than in the application they referenced. The wiring diagram below is my interpretation of the wiring required for the pump in my car.

Five wires emanate from the pump. The heavy brown wire connects to ground. The heavy red cable connects to the supplied 80 amp fuse. The 22 gauge black wire connects to the fuse panel at location #19 or #23. The 22 gauge blue/slate wire connects to the alternator at the indicator lamp post.

Rose Jaguar MK2 Wiring Diagram for Electric Power Steering Pump

Rose Jaguar MK2 Wiring Diagram for Electric Power Steering Pump

In this image I have installed the 80 amp fuse for the power steering pump. The Bosch relay will be used for the Fogranger fog lamps. All of this will be out of view once the black sheet metal cover his made for the panel.

Power Steering Pump, Alternator & Fogranger Wiring on Electrical Panel

Power Steering Pump, Alternator & Fogranger Wiring on Electrical Panel

Heater Fan Wiring

A full description of the restoration and modification of the heater box and fan may be found at the Heater Post on this Valvechatter website. The following information addresses the wiring of the heater fan.

The orange wire from the motor is connected to ground. The black wire to the “inside” post (closest to the heater box) of the resistor. The slate wire from terminal #6 on the switch is connected to the “outside” post (closest to the blower fan) of the resistor. The white/green wire from terminal #8 on the switch connects to the “inside” post on the resistor. The green/yellow wire from the #4 terminal of the switch is connected to the fuse position #11 for power. With this wiring in place, the lower position of the switch is “off,” the middle position is “Low Speed” and the upper position is “High Speed.”

I created a pigtail (seen below) from the resistor for the heater fan wiring. Two wires in the pigtail are connected through two-way snap connectors to wires of the same color which route through the firewall and ultimately back to the Fan Switch. The black wire in the pigtail goes directly to the fan motor. The orange wire from the motor is the ground and it is connected to the LH valance grounding terminal strip.

Heater Fan Wiring

Heater Fan Wiring

Heater Fan Wiring

Heater Fan Wiring

Wiper Motor Wiring

As documented in my post entitled Wiper System Upgrade, I installed a Lucas 29W wiper motor kit from Classic Motor Cars in the UK. The upgrade includes a relay mounted behind the central instrument panel assembly. The wiring for the wiper switch is referenced above under the section “Instrument Panel Assembly Switch Wiring.” This is a diagram of the wiring:

Rose Jaguar MK2 Wiper System Wiring

Rose Jaguar MK2 Wiper System Wiring

This is an image of the wiper motor mounting. I used eight of the ten connection points in a ten-way rubber snap connector and fastened it to engine bay RH valance with an original type retaining clasp. note the wiper motor ground connection to the upper left.

Wiper Motor Mount and Wiring

Wiper Motor Mount and Wiring

Cruise Control Wiringcruise-control-installation-disclaimer-001

A full description of the installation of the Rostra Cruise Control System in my MK2 is provided in the MK2 Cruise Control Post. My wiring diagram, tailored for my 1964 Jaguar MK2 application, is provided below. As the disclaimer above indicates, the wiring description in this post journals what I did for my car. It is not my intention to describe what you should do for your car!

This is a link to a pdf of the wiring diagram and it is also shown in the image below:

rostra-cruise-control-wiring-for-jag-mk2

Rostar Cruise Control Wiring for the Rose MK2

Rostar Cruise Control Wiring for the Rose MK2

Central Locking and Keyless Entry Wiring

A full description of the locking system may be found at the “Remote Control Door Locks web site entry: https://valvechatter.com/?p=9205. The wiring for the system is comprised of two components. The MES Central Locking Control Module operates the door lock actuators. Once that system in properly installed and operating as it should, the AVITAL keyless entry module is added to permit use of a key fob to wirelessly lock and unlock all doors. An added feature of the system is that about fifteen seconds after ignition all doors are locked automatically. 

The following wiring diagram is unfortunately a bit busy. This is a link to a pdf file of the diagram: Keyless Entry Power Locks for Rose Jag MK2 and a jpeg file is depicted below:

Keyless Entry Power Locks for Rose Jag MK2

 

Air Conditioner Operating Controls Wiring

A full description of the installation of the RetroAir air conditioning system in my MK2 is provided in the “Air Conditioning” Post. The wiring of the controls and devices for the air conditioning system is depicted in the following diagram:

Rose Jaguar MK2 Air Conditioning Wiring

Rose Jaguar MK2 Air Conditioning Wiring

This is a photograph of the wiring harness provided in the RetroAir kit. In my application I did not use the circuit breaker shown in the image because I wired the blower switch directly to the fuse panel and protected the system at that point with a 40 amp fuse.

RetroAir Wiring Harness Kit

RetroAir Wiring Harness Kit

As the diagram above illustrates, I chose to install a trinary pressure safety switch in the air conditioning electrical circuit. The trinity switch is also discussed in the “Air Conditioning Post.”

Vintage Air Trinary Switch

Vintage Air Trinary Switch

The Vintage Air trinary switch kits combine low and high pressure compressor clutch cut-off functions plus an electric fan engagement signal at 254 psi. The low pressure cut-off of these trinary switches is 30 psi and the high pressure cut-off is 406 psi.

http://www.vintageair.com/Instructions2013/904678.pdf

The switch as supplied has two blue wires and two black wires. Because the switch is located in a right from wheel well and exposed to the elements, I connected the four wires to a waterproof connector purchased from British Wiring, and then routed the wires to their termination points. One blue wire is for ground and the other for fused power. One black wire connects to the compressor and the other to the thermostat controller for the air conditioner.

Turn Indicator and Headlamp Flasher Switch at the Steering Column  and the Laycock De Normanville Overdrive Switch and Wiring

The electric overdrive is activated by a lever switch on the right side of the steering column. Power is derived from fuse position #14 of the CT fuse box. With lever activation a signal is sent to the overdrive interlock, or top gear switch located on the top of the gearbox and then to the overdrive solenoid. A warning indicator bulb is illuminated when the overdrive is engaged. More information about the switch and lever mechanism may be found in the “electrical components” post.

Overdrive Interlock or Top Gear Switch at gearbox

Overdrive Interlock or Top Gear Switch at gearbox

The lever on the left side of the steering column is used in an upward and downward motion to activate the LH and RH turn indicator flashers at the front and rear of the vehicle. When the flashers are functioning an indicator bulb located in a centralized position behind the steering wheel is illuminated in a flashing pattern. The headlamp flasher is activated by the driver pulling the same lever toward himself. This action will trigger the high beam warning light in the speedometer.

Rose Jaguar MK2 Flasher Circuit & Overdrive

Rose Jaguar MK2 Flasher Circuit & Overdrive

Turn Signal Switch Wiring

Turn Signal Switch Wiring

Turn Signal and overdrive indicator bulbs, holders, and pigtail

Turn Signal and overdrive indicator bulbs, holders, and pigtail

Auxiliary Power/USB Ports

I intend to install an arm rest/console between the front seats in my MK2. The console will include an auxiliary power/USB port unit. Power is sourced from the fuse box, position #12.

Auxiliary Power and USB unit

Auxiliary Power and USB unit

Auxiliary Power and USB unit

Auxiliary Power and USB unit

Powered Front Seats

The front seats I am using are from a Jaguar XJ40. More information about the seats is available at the “Seating” post. They have more features than I plan to use.

1990 Daimler Front Seats

1990 Daimler Front Seats

Although the wiring harnesses were complete, there were a number of electrical connectors on the harnesses with no explanation as to what needed to be connected where to get the seats functioning.

Seat Wiring Harness and Switches

Seat Wiring Harness and Switches

The seats have seat heaters (upper and lower cushions), a memory feature for the driver’s seat, seat belt alarms, and wiring to permit automatic movement of the driver’s seat to the aft position when the driver’s door is opened.

After some enquiries on the Forums, Bryan Neish came to my aid. He was of great help figuring out what the wiring at each of the connectors did. I know he spent quite a lot of time reviewing wiring diagrams to find what I needed. George Leicht was also helpful. He sent along the wiring diagram that accurately reflected my seat wiring.

I wired the seats to unswitched power at the fuse box to facilitate seat operation before entry or before starting the ignition. I was able to use the original seat wiring harness and bank of switches to control the four motors adjusting the lower and upper seat cushions for each chair. The wiring runs under the center console to each seat. A pdf file of the seat wiring schematic for 1990 may be found here: 1990 Jaguar XJ40 Seat Electrical Schematic

I have yet to decide where I will mount the switches. The image below shows the approximate location of the switches as Ton Tulleken installed them on his car:

Possible Placement of Seat Switches

Possible Placement of Seat Switches

Kevin Moore's MK2 power seat switches

Kevin Moore’s MK2 power seat switches

The image above shows the location of the switches in Kevin Moore’s car.

Lighting

SideLights

Additional detail about the sidelamps may be seen in the exterior lighting post. I rewired the original side lamp fixtures and trial fitted them to the body. The rubber “O” rings supplied by SNG Barratt are to thick to fit properly so I replaced them with metric 24mm – 2mm “O”rings ordered from McMaster Carr. New LED bulbs were also fitted in the fixtures. The red 18 AWG wire from the bulb is combined with a black 14 AWG ground wire from the fixture in a vinyl sleeve that goes through the LH and RH valance lighting grommet.

SideLamps

SideLamps

RH Side Lamp Wiring & Sleeving

RH Side Lamp Wiring & Sleeving

Refurbished side lights installed

Refurbished side lights installed

Turn Signal Flasher Lamps

After installing the side lamps I moved to the turn signal flashers. Information about the lamps is contained in the exterior lights post. I re-used the original fixture wire terminals but replaced the power and ground wiring with new. The power wire is blue/green 18 AWG and the ground wire is black 14AWG. The wiring is pushed through holes on the back end of the fixture’s new rubber boot. New vinyl sleeving was also used for the flasher lamps.

Front Flasher Turn signal

Front Flasher Turn signal

Turn Signal Flasher with LED Installed

Turn Signal Flasher with LED Installed

Turn Signal Flasher Wiring

Turn Signal Flasher Wiring

Fograngers

More information about the fog rangers may be found in the exterior lights post. The Classic Technologies Fuse box did not have a relay designed into the product for fog or driving lights, so I added a Bosch relay for this function. It is mounted on the original fuse panel in the engine bay on the LH valance. The foglights are controlled by the primary light switch.

Rose Jaguar MK2 Fogranger Wiring

Rose Jaguar MK2 Fogranger Wiring

Fogranger Relay

Fogranger Relay

RH Fogranger Installed

RH Fogranger Installed

Headlights

More information about the headlights may be found in the exterior lights post. I installed new 3 wire (high beam, low beam, and ground) plugs, wiring and sleeving for the headlights.

Headlight Installed with Newly Chromed Trim Ring

Headlight Installed with Newly Chromed Trim Ring

Although not too pretty yet, this image shows the temporary installation of all of the front exterior lights. The blue painter’s tape is to protect the chrome. The installation was done to make sure that I had all the parts needed for a particular light and to test the electric circuitry and switches.

Temporary Installation of front Exterior Lights

Temporary Installation of front Exterior Lights

These images show the exterior lights wiring in new sleeving as it is routed from the individual fixture through the large wiring grommet located on each valance.

LH Front Exterior Lights Wire Sleeving and Routing

LH Front Exterior Lights Wire Sleeving and Routing

RH Front Exterior Lights Wire Sleeving and Routing

Tail Lights

More information about the tail lights may be found in the exterior lights post. I substituted LED bulbs for the original incandescent type; however, the wiring remains the same. In fact, I was able to reuse the original wire leads from each of the bulb holders. The upper bulb is for the flasher with a single wire lead. The lower bulb is for the regular lights plus an additional light for the brakes with a double wire lead.

Tail Light Wire Leads

Tail Light Wire Leads

Tail Light LED Bulbs

Tail Light LED Bulbs

Number plate illumination and reverse lamp

More information about the lamp may be found in the exterior lights post. The lamp includes one light for the luggage compartment, two bulbs for the license plate illumination, and one bulb for reversing. All original incandescent bulbs were replaced with LEDs. The original wiring harness for the lamp was in pretty good shape, but I constructed a new one with all fresh wiring.

Boot Lamp with new wiring harness

Boot Lamp with new wiring harness

Luggage compartment lamp

As my friend Eric Kriss points out in his MK2 restoration blog, the luggage lamp seemed to be an afterthought to Jaguar engineers. To function the light switch on the gauge panel had to be turned on, but it is often the case that one would want to access the luggage area after the car’s ignition, much less its lights were turned off! Instead of wiring the luggage compartment lamp in series with the front marker and rear tail lights, Eric revised the wiring to move the luggage compartment lamp to its own circuit. To make the lamp illuminate when the boot lid is opened a position sensitive mercury tilt switch is used. As Eric describes, when upright a ground connection is established permitting current to flow to the bulb. When the boot lid is shut, the ground connection is broken so the light goes off.Mercury Tilt Switch

 

Interior Lights

The MK2 as original had six interior lamps: the map light at the central gauge panel, a lamp at the top of each center or “B/C” pillar, a lamp in the cubby box and a lamp on each side of the rear of the car above the passenger seat. These latter lamps referred to as rear quarter interior lamps. My Mk2 will also have two courtesy lamps in the back of the front seat headrests. More information concerning these lamps may be found at the “Interior Lights” post.

As pointed out in the “Interior Lights” post, the replacement center pillar lamps are not exact replacements for the originals. They are operationally superior in that they provide an “on-off” switch at the lamp, and also because they screw, rather than snap, together. They just don’t look quite as nice being plastic rather than chrome metal. Just to check fit and to test the electrical system I did install the new center pillar lamps mounted on their wood bases. An additional grounding wire is used with the new lamp for its switch so there are three wires rather than the original two. For purposes of testing the electric system I temporarily fixed the third ground wire to the pillar as shown in the third photo below.

36 mm festoon bulbs in warm white were substituted for the original incandescent bulbs.The lamps are wired to the interior lighting circuit that includes the interior lamps toggle switch on the central gauge panel as well as the four door switches. The black ground wire is simply attached to the metal center pillar.

New three-wire center pillar lamp with switch

New three-wire center pillar lamp with switch

New center pillar lamp loosely mounted on wood base

New center pillar lamp loosely mounted on wood base

Temporary ground connection for center pillar lamp switch

Temporary ground connection for center pillar lamp switch

I trial fit the new, but as original, rear quarter lamps which required making new plywood mounting frames. Wiring for the rear quarter interior lamps initiates at fuse box to the interior lamp switch on the gauge panel and then proceeds through the LH and RH sills to the lamps. There is also a switch in each door that activates the interior lamps should any of the four doors be opened. I did not use wiring pigtails for these lamps. 36 mm festoon bulbs in warm white were substituted for the original incandescent bulbs.

Rear Quarter Interior Lamp

Rear Quarter Interior Lamp

LH rear quarter interior lamp

LH rear quarter interior lamp

I am using XJ40 powered seats in my MK2. The seat headrest lights were originally wired in such a way that they too illuminated when the car’s doors were opened. These lights also have an integral on/off rotary or dial switch. Without the central processor of a more modern car it would be all too easy to leave these lights on and eventually drain the battery. Therefore, I elected to wire these lamps to a switched power source rather than a constant power source like the other lamps. I did not use the terminal on the headrest light that would normally have a red/green wire to the door switches.

XJ40 Hedrest Lamp Installation

XJ40 Hedrest Lamp Installation

XJ40 Headrest Lamp Wiring

I was able to use the original door switches in my rebuild. I just rewired each of them with new wire.

Front Door Interior Light Switch and Wiring

Front Door Interior Light Switch and Wiring

The front door switch is mounted in the lower door hinge and travels through the kick panel to the switch.

Front Door Interior Light Switch in Lower Door hinge

Front Door Interior Light Switch in Lower Door hinge

Front Door Interior Light Switch Wiring through Lower Kick Panel

Front Door Interior Light Switch Wiring through Lower Kick Panel

The rear door switch is mounted in the rear side of the B/C post or center pillar. The wiring for the switch travels from under the front dash, through the sill and up the center pillar.

Rear Door Interior Light Switch in Center Pillar

Rear Door Interior Light Switch in Center Pillar

The Cubby Box lamp assembly wiring for Lamp/Switch consists of a metal base fixture, bulb, blue plastic cover and a switch controlled by opening the Cubby Box door. More images and information regarding the lamp may be found at the “Interior Lights” post. As with the other interior lamps, the original incandescent bulb was replaced with a 36 mm festoon bulb in warm white. Terminals on the back side of the metal lamp base connect to the fused power source and to the Cubby Box door switch. The image below illustrates the wiring sources and terminations for the Cubby Box.

Cubby Box Wiring for Lamp:Switch

Cubby Box Wiring for Lamp/Switch

Some Details on a Few Other Assemblies

The LH and RH Fascia Board Assemblies were installed in the car so as to test the wiring for the speedometer and its warning lights, the tachometer with the internal clock, the “Handbrake “ON” position and brake fluid container level” warning lamp, and the “Cubby” glove box lamp. More information on these fascia boards may be found at the “Dash” post. All gauge/instrument illumination incandescent bulbs were replaced with LEDs.

I first connected the left turn signal flashing indicator, the right turn signal flashing indicator, and the overdrive engagement indicator from the indicators wiring pigtail to the direction indicator/headlamp flasher switch. A ground wire for the indicators was mounted to the body below the dash.

Ground connection under dash for indicator lights

Ground connection under dash for indicator lights

Loose fitting of fascia board for tach install

Loose fitting of fascia board for tach install

I found it easiest to loosely position the driver’s side fascia board and I then installed the tachometer with its two mounting clamps, a ground wire, the 12 volt power wire, the wire connecting the tach to the coil and the two instrument lights. Leaving the speedometer position open facilitates accessing the LH fascia board outside mounting studs/nuts.

LH fascia board temporary install with tach in place

LH fascia board temporary install with tach in place

I then secured the LH fascia board to its mounts, followed by connecting the wiring for the handbrake/brake fluid level warning lamp.

I then connected the two speedometer illumination lights, the lights for the headlamp, ignition, and fuel warning lights, and the speedometer drive cable.

Installing the passenger side (RH) fascia board is much the same as the driver’s (LH) side. A sliding panel in the cubby box may be removed to provide access to the studs/nuts of the outside mounting bracket. The wiring for the “Cubby” lamp as shown in the write-up and image above is connected to ground and power.

Fuel Sender

The fuel sender has its own short wiring harness consisting of three wires in a protective sleeving. One wire for ground, one for the fuel gauge (the “T” terminal on the sender for 10 volts) and one for the fuel level warning lamp in the speedometer (the “W” terminal on the sender). The embossed terminal markings are evident on the image below. My sender has an “E” marking for earth, although my grounding wire was fixed to one of the screws used to mount the sender to the tank. While the original harness was in good shape, I made a new one for installation in the Jag when the fuel tank is fitted.

Original Fuel Sender Wiring Harness

Original Fuel Sender Wiring Harness

New Fuel Sender Wiring Harness

New Fuel Sender Wiring Harness

Fuel Sender Terminals

Fuel Sender Terminals

Warning Light for Handbrake and Fluid Level

Handbrake and Fluid Warning lamp Escutcheon

Handbrake and Fluid Warning lamp Escutcheon

The lamp is activated by a switch at the base of the handbrake, mounted to a bracket located on the interior floor. See: https://valvechatter.com/?p=3913 under the handbrake post, or by a level indicator switch in the brake fluid reservoir is shown earlier in this post.

Handbrake Warning Switch

Handbrake Warning Switch

The “Warning Lamp Indicating Handbrake ‘ON’ Position and Level in Brake Fluid Container” is comprised of the cover and window assembly, a spring washer on the central terminal post, with nuts and washers. Rubber sleeves are slipped over the white wire at the terminal and the white and red/green wires are contained together in a rubber sleeve of about 4.” The warning light was cleaned and reassembled and a new face plate was installed.

Warning Lamp

Warning Lamp

Hydraulic Fluid Reservoir, Low Fluid Warning Switch

The fluid canister contains a float activated level indicator switch in its screw cap.

Hydraulic Fluid Container Location

Hydraulic Fluid Container Location

Two wires attach the switch with spade connectors and are protected by a rubber cap over the indicator plunger. I sourced a new canister and indicator switch (cap) from SNG Barratt. The canister is covered in blue painter’s tape just to keep it clean during the restoration build. I was able to reuse the original rubber protective cap. An 18AWG light green wire is connected to one terminal. This wire joins via a 4 way snap connector with an orange 18 AWG wire from the handbrake switch. A single orange 18 AWG wire then connects to the LH Barrier Block Terminal #5B. A dark green wire from LH Barrier Block #5A connects to a 2 way snap connector with a red/green wire on the dash warning light pigtail.

A black 14 AWG wire connects to the other level indicator switch terminal and provides a ground connection to the chassis.

Hydraulic Fluid Container Wiring

Hydraulic Fluid Container Wiring

New Wiring Harness Planning & Prep

Wiring harness Installation Disclaimer

After selecting the fuse/relay panel from Classic Technologies to be the heart of my new electrical system, the next issue was to decide about the wiring harness to be used. I could either select a pre-assembled harness from one of a number of vendors, knowing that I would have to modify it given the “personalizations” I would be incorporating, or I could build my own.

I decided to build my own. I must give credit where credit is due. I don’t know if I would have made the decision I did had I not known that Eric Kriss would also be concurrently (almost) building a new harness for his MK2. Eric’s knowledge of automotive electrical systems far surpasses my own, but I have courage and a desire to learn! Eric willingly shared his design work and I put his schematics to good use.

Marc Goldblatt from Classic Technologies who provided the relay/fuse box I am using provides a wonderful color wiring diagram that is also extremely helpful. Between Eric and Marc I felt pretty positive about venturing into the wiring world!

Undertaking this project is a big task that requires significant planning and advance preparation.

Advance Preparation – Out with the Old

I spent days “deconstructing” my MK2’s wiring harness and taking copious notes about the various gauges, switches, components, wire sources and terminations. While this step may not have been necessary, I learned volumes about the principles of wiring. Having a good wiring schematic is particularly helpful. There are a number of “after-market” exploded wiring charts available. The best one I found was by [email protected]What is really nice about his schematic is that a vertical and horizontal legend is incorporated making it much, much easier to locate a component on the schematic than otherwise.

Tools and Materials

There are some “tools of the trade” that are really needed to do a good job with electrical connections. Using the proper tool also generally makes the job easier!

The crimper on the left makes easy work of crimping wire in insulated terminals. I used these extensively on my 14 and 18AWG wire. The next set of crimpers from the left side of the image are for pin and socket terminals used in Molex Connectors. Something like these are essential for a good job. Third from the left is a wire stripper and I could not imagine taking on a wiring job without these. Fourth from the left is a ratchet style crimper used for bullet terminals. Finally, snap connector pliers to push together 2-4 bullet terminals in snap connectors. Of course, one can always find and use more tools, but I regard these as the necessary for rewiring my Jaguar MK2.

Crimpers & Strippers

Crimpers & Strippers

Terminals and Connectors

Most of my wiring is 18 and 14 gauge wire. I used a combination of bullet connectors and insulated spade terminals (male and female) to connect wires. Bullet connectors for the two sizes of wire are shown to the left below. Various sizes of snap connectors are also shown. These are available from British Wiring in Bally, PA. This company is very responsive and helpful.

Bullet Terminals and Various Size Snap Connectors

Bullet Terminals and Various Size Snap Connectors

I put together a storage kit of various types and sizes of vinyl terminals to use on this and other projects:Wiring Connector Terminals

I ordered most of my connectors and terminals from Waytek, Inc., similar products are available from other suppliers but I was pleased with Waytek’s comprehensive inventory and selection. The one downside to Waytek is that for many parts you may have to order more of a particular item than you want or need – that is when the local ACE Hardware store comes in handy.

I suppose that it is not essential, but for many of my wiring connections I like to use shrink tubing to create a safe and good looking joint. A little heat from a heat gun or a flame and in seconds you have a very professional looking connection. British Wiring has many sizes of shrink tubing but it is also available from many other vendors.

Shrink Tubing

Shrink Tubing

Wire Labeling

Not in every case, but in most, I have labeled wires for future troubleshooting and as a reference guide. I used a DYMO LetraTag LT-100H Electronic Label Maker to make my labels and covered them with clear shrink tubing sourced from Pegasus Racing. A little heat on each of the label and it is sealed from the elements.

Wire Labeling

Wire Labeling

DYMO LetraTag LT-100H Electronic Label Maker

DYMO LetraTag LT-100H Electronic Label Maker

Barrier Terminal Blocks

Eric Kriss’s wiring plan, where possible, eliminates both long wiring runs and the use of the original snap “bullet connectors” by utilizing modern barrier terminal blocks as intermediate wiring connection points. This approach makes testing and chasing wiring problems considerably more straightforward and accessible when contrasted with the original wiring harness. Further modifications are also more easily accommodated. The trade-off is a bit more complexity in designing the harness.

The barrier blocks come in various sizes, some with clear plastic caps and others without.

Typical 4-gang Barrier Block

Typical 4-gang Barrier Block

In my design I used one 12 gang barrier block and one 6 gang barrier block under the dash, below the steering wheel on the left side of the car. Under the dash on the RH side a single 6 gang barrier block was used.

In the engine bay (and inspired by Eric Kriss’s work), hidden by the original fuse assembly cover, are three 4 gang barrier blocks with clear plastic covers.

Barrier Block with cover

Barrier Block with cover

Finally one, small 4 gang barrier block, secured with velcro, was used in the central instrument panel assembly wiring.

Only time will tell if I made a good decision or not, but rather than mounting the under dash barrier blocks with self-tapping or machine screws, I epoxied strong magnets to the back side of the blocks making it possible to easily remove them from their location to ease access to connections. Rivet nuts and machine screws were used to fasten the barrier blocks in the engine bay.

Barrier Blocks with Magnets

Barrier Blocks with Magnets

Rivet-Nuts

Rivet-Nuts

Wire 

I ordered my wire from British Wiring. I began with the good intention of following British standard wiring codes, but to minimize waste I admit to ending up using wire colors that did not follow convention. However, all was well documented.

Lucas Wiring Color Codes

Mike McPhail, the president of the South Texas Austin-Healey Club, published an article in the July, 2010 issue of Regional Rumblings, the Club’s newsletter that provided an excellent color coded summary of Lucas wiring that  proved helpful with the Jaguar as well. I didn’t always follow convention (for economy) but it is useful to know what you are supposed to be doing!

Lucas Wiring Color Codes

Testing Equipment

Testing connections and trouble shooting is always necessary. Whether simply checking for continuity or determining voltage or amperage a few appropriate tools are needed. I would suggest these two at a minimum:

Multimeter and Circuit Tester

Multimeter and Circuit Tester

New Wiring for Switches and Gauges

The diagrams provided below depict the wiring to/from each of the switches in the panel. The purpose, operation and in some cases repurposing of the switches is described in a previous post “Gauges, Instruments and Switches.” One addition to the panel is a small chime that is activated if the headlamps are left on when the ignition is off, but the driver’s door is opened.

Rose Jaguar MK2 Washer and Hazard Switches

Rose Jaguar MK2 Washer and Hazard Switches

Rose Jaguar MK2 Wiper Switch

Rose Jaguar MK2 Wiper Switch

Rose Jaguar MK2 Starter, Cigar, Ignition, & Chime Switches

Rose Jaguar MK2 Starter, Cigar, Ignition, & Chime Switches

Rose Jaguar MK2 Heater Fan Switch

Rose Jaguar MK2 Heater Fan Switch

Rose Jaguar MK2 Interior Lamp Switch

Rose Jaguar MK2 Interior Lamp Switch

Rose Jaguar MK2 Panel Lamp Switch

Rose Jaguar MK2 Panel Lamp Switch

Rose Jaguar MK2 Lucas 3 Position Light Switch

Rose Jaguar MK2 Lucas 3 Position Light Switch

Instrument Panel Assembly Gauge Wiring

There are four gauges located in the central instrument panel assembly: from left to right when looking at the face of the panel, the water temperature gauge, the oil pressure gauge, the fuel gauge, and the voltmeter which is substituted for the original ammeter. As with the switches, the gauges are explained more fully in the “Gauges, Instruments and Switches” post.

The following images depict the wiring for each of the four gauges:

Rose Jaguar MK2 Water Temperature Gauge

Rose Jaguar MK2 Water Temperature Gauge

Rose Jaguar MK2 Oil Pressure Gauge

Rose Jaguar MK2 Oil Pressure Gauge

Rose Jaguar MK2 Fuel Gauge

Rose Jaguar MK2 Fuel Gauge

Rose Jaguar MK2 Voltmeter

Rose Jaguar MK2 Voltmeter

 

 

Interior Lights

Conversion to LED lights

The Jaguar Mk2 and all other cars of the period used incandescent bulbs in the interior fixtures and gauges. In my restoration I intend to replace most if not all incandescent lights with light emitting diodes or as they are more commonly referred to: LEDs.  LEDs live longer, use considerably less power, and are brighter than the incandescent bulbs they replace. Specific light model numbers and quantities are listed with the various installations below. The LED lights were sourced from 4 Sight Automotive, www.bettercarlighting.co.uk

Interior Courtesy Lights

I will collectively refer to the interior lamp in rear quarters, the interior lamp at top of center pillars, and the headrest lamps as courtesy lamps. The MK2 did not have seat headrests, much less headrest lights, but I am using front seats from what I believe was a 1990 jaguar XJ 40. In 1990 the headrest lamps were connected to a central computer, but obviously, there is no computer in a 1964 Jaguar.

The rear quarter and the center pillar lights were designed to be activated by opening any one of the four doors in which case a door switch would illuminate the lights and extinguish them when the door was closed. Alternatively,  flipping the “INTERIOR” toggle switch on the central gauge panel to the “on” position also illuminates the lights. In my wiring methodology this pattern is retained.

Both of my center pillar lights were broken. They are held together by two metal pins with balls on the ends that snap into the plastic lens. After fifty years the plastic is fragile and very susceptible to breaking. The chrome “shields” are secured to the assembly with two folding tabs that are also fragile and easily broken.

A modern replacement is available and I sourced them from SNG Barratt. The new units solve the design problems of the earlier model but unfortunately have visible screws through the shields and the backplate is black plastic rather than chrome metal. All disappointing!

The new units do have an on/off switch on the bezel of the lamp.The on/off switch on the lamp acts exactly like the toggle switch on the central gauge panel. That is, when the on/off switch is turned on, all four lights illuminate.

B/C Pillar Interior Lights

B/C Pillar Interior Lights

Unlike the Center Pillar lights, the new stock replacements for the rear lights appear identical to the originals. I substituted 36MM LED festoon bulbs in warm white from 4Sight Automotive for the original incandescent bulbs. Each of these lamps mount to a plywood frame and then to the body of the car. My original plywood pieces simply fell apart when I disassembled the car. New wood frames were made per the pattern supplied by Eric Kriss on his web site. I then trial fit the plywood frame and lamp fixture. The plywood is held to the metal body with two #4 X 1/2″ flat head self tapping screws, and then the lamp body is secured through the plywood to the metal body with two #4 x 3/4″ self tapping screws.

Rear Quarter Interior Lamps Plywood Mounting Frame

Rear Quarter Interior Lamps Plywood Mounting Frame

New Plywood Frame for rear quarter interior lamp

New Plywood Frame for rear quarter interior lamp

New Rear Interior Lights

New Rear Interior Lights

New Rear Interior Lights

New Rear Interior Lights

rear quarter interior lamp with LED inserted

rear quarter interior lamp with LED inserted

LH rear quarter interior lamp

The seat headrest lights were originally wired in such a way that they too illuminated when the car’s doors were opened. These lights also have an integral on/off rotary or dial switch. Without the central processor of a more modern car it would be all too easy to leave these lights on and eventually drain the battery. Therefore, I elected to wire these lamps to a switched power source rather than a constant power source like the other lamps. I did not use the terminal on the headrest light that would normally have a red/green wire to the door switches.

XJ40 Headrest Lamp

XJ40 Headrest Lamp

XJ40 Headrest Lamp 1

Once the ignition is turned on the front seat headrest lights behave like the other courtesy lamps, but if the ignition is off, unlike the other lights, the  headrest lights cannot illuminate. Consequently no drain on the battery.

While not the same as the original Jaguar MK2, nor the Jaguar XJ40, I believe this wiring approach produces a very satisfactory result.

Instrument/Gauge Panel Lights

The lights on the gauges and the illumination of the switch markings is controlled by the switch lever marked”Panel” on the gauge panel. The switch has two positions “DIM” and “BRIGHT” to suit the driver’s requirements. The panel lights will only operate when the sidelights are switched “ON.”

All of the original 987 incandescent bulbs in the eight panel lights will be replaced with BA9 ES Neg. (screw base) LEDs (The image below shows a blue bulb, but I actually used white).  Two each in the speedometer and tachometer, and one each in the fuel, water temperature, oil pressure, and voltmeter gauges.

BA9ES Blue Neg LED

BA9ES Blue Neg LED

Warning Lights

There are four warning lights on my MK2. Three are located in the speedometer for fuel level, ignition, and high beam headlights. An additional light on the dash warns for low brake fluid or the handbrake application. These incandescent lights are replaced with BA9ES white Neg LEDS.

Map Light

There is a lamp located above the instrument panel, mounted to the wood screen rail capping. As designed, to illuminate the lamp, the switch marked “MAP” is lifted. The light will only operate when the sidelights are switched “ON.” However, following the lead of Eric Kriss I have repurposed the map light toggle switch to control the hazard light function. The map light in my wiring scheme is controlled by the panel lamp switch. I also substituted an LED strip in place of the original incandescent bulb. Details about the wiring are available at the “building a new wiring harness” post and at the “Gauges, Instruments and Switches” post.

Map Light

Map Light – Original and New Replacement

Original Incandescent map light and LED Map Light

Original Incandescent map light and LED Map Light

“Cubby” Glove Box Light

As designed, the lamp in the glove box is automatically illuminated when the door is open and the side lights are “ON.” However, following the lead of Eric Kriss, I have wired the cubby lamp and the luggage lamp in the boot so they will illuminate when the cubby door is opened or the boot lid is opened without the necessity of turning on the lights at the light switch first. As with the other lamps the incandescent bulb has been replaced by an LED lamp. the following image shows the components of the lamp.

Cubby Box Lamp

Cubby Box Lamp

Cubby Box Lamp installed in Box

Cubby Box Lamp installed in Box

The following image shows the components of the cubby lamp switch.

Cubby Box Switch

Cubby Box Switch

Luggage Compartment Light

The Boot is illuminated when the lid is opened. The lamp only operates when the side lights are switched “ON.”

Luggage Compartment Illumination

Luggage Compartment Illumination