A New Electrical System

On November 21, 2023 we began to build the new electrical system for the Bugeye, all centered around the Classic Technologies Relay and Fuse Box. The new harness will be in three discreet sections: one for the bonnet, one for the central portion of the car including the engine bay and dash and one for the rear of the car. We will be incorporating a number of “personalizations” in the car that require modification of the original wiring.

The Bugeye is a very simple car and that extends to the electrical system. The initial design and production of the Sprite focused on keeping costs, and therefore selling price, to a minimum. So, there aren’t many bells and whistles on the car. Some of our “personalizations” are for safety, such as hazard flashers, and some are for comfort or ease of operation, such as interior courtesy lights. A list of these electrical system modifications is provided below. The list is followed by a more extensive explanation of these changes so that documentation is available for future owners.

Classic Technologies Fuse Box with seven relays, fifteen fuses with thirty-four wire connections, electronic flasher.

A panel was fabricated to fit behind the dash fascia to house toggle switches controlling the electric radiator fan, the driving lights, the dual selection fuel pumps (one SU and one Facet), and the interior and boot courtesy lamps. The panel also includes provision for a Lucas hazard light switch, a warning lamp for the operation of the driving lights, and a combination USB/digital voltmeter. Finally, the rheostat controller for the variable speed windshield wiper controller is also located on the panel. The switches on the panel are accessible but hidden from view.

Bespoke wiring harness utilizing Deutsch connectors to permit the quick and easy removal of the dash with all gauges and switches in tact

Alternator to replace the generator (dynamo) and external voltage regulator

Radiator electric fan

Hazard switch and lights

Driving lights with operating warning lamp

Variable speed wiper controller

Speed Hut electronic GPS speedometer and tachometer

LED interior gauge lamps, flashers, side and tail lights and brake lights

LED interior footwell and boot courtesy lights operated by a key fob with a forty second operating delay and a manual override toggle switch

Radio Shack buzzer serving as a turn indicator switch alarm

Dual redundant fuel pumps selected by toggle switch

Modified original windscreen washer pump 

And now for some additional detail:

Classic Technologies Relay/Fuse Box

We upgraded from the original Model SF6 fuse unit with the two glass fuses of 35 amps and 50 amps to a modern fuse/relay panel supplied by Marc Goldblatt, owner of Classic Technologies. http://www.classic-technologies.com We have chosen to locate the box on the RH fender valance where the original regulator was secured to the car. We installed four rivnuts in the valance to make mounting the box a simple task.

The Classic Technologies fuse/relay panel provides for 15 fused circuits with 34 pin connectors, 7 relays including horn, ignition power, fog lights, high beams and low beams headlights, starter and accessory power and 2 flashers for the turn signals and hazard lights. We selected the optional flasher relays for LED lights. 

The Classic Technologies panel is only 6 3/4″ (171mm) long X 4 5/8″ (81mm) wide X 2 3/16″ (56mm) tall. The lug-less terminations into unpluggable connectors are another nice feature making the installation of the panel easy and convenient. A poster size color schematic was provided along with a clear instruction manual to guide hobbyists like myself through the installation. We also decided to purchase all of the wire from Marc. It doesn’t match the original wire as available from British Wiring, but it is close. Marc will provide additional support if needed.

Fuse/Relay Panel Design Theory

The 15 fuses are broken up into three groups:

  1. Constant Power: Fuses F1 through F4, F8, and F15. These fuses are tied to the battery + terminal (B+). Examples: Courtesy Lights, Parking Lights, Hazard Flashers, and Horn. These features have power regardless of ignition switch position.
  2. Ignition Power: Fuses F5, F6, and F7. These are items that are critical to starting the car that should have power while the car is being started. Examples: Coil, Alternator excitation, Fuel Pump, Gauges/Warning Lights, brake lights.
  3. Accessory Power: Fuses F9 through F14. These are items that are not critical to starting the car and should not have power while starting the car to maximize power to the starter. Additionally, in order to prevent battery drain, these items should not have power when the keys are removed from the ignition. Examples: wipers, heater motor, turn signals, overdrive, radiator fan, radio, reverse lights…

Classic Tech Fuse Box

Bespoke Wiring Harness

The impetus behind building a custom wiring harness was the desire to have the ability to install and replace the dash with all of the switches and gauges in place. Anyone who has laid on his back on the floor of the car and under the dash appreciates the motivation to pursue this approach. A friend who owns a Cobra shared what he had done and it was a model for exactly what we were after.

Cobra Dash

Note the Molex connectors on the right side of the back of the dash. In our case we chose to utilize deutsch connectors. These are water tight plastic connectors. One can use traditional wire pins that crimp over the wire end or one can use “solid barrel contact” terminals with a special crimping tool. We recommend the solid barrel type. We picked up these items from Amazon supplied by JR Ready. The connectors come in various sizes from two wires up to twelve in each connector. The connectors are extremely easy to use and provide a superior result. This is a sample kit as provided by JR Ready. A special purpose crimper is used with the connectors. It is inexpensive and does a super job.

JR Ready Deutsch Connectors

Deutsch Connector Crimper









This is the finished result after crimping the terminal on the wire:

Four Indent Crimping

As we built the wiring harness wires were gathered together and organized with small zip ties. Once all of our wiring was tested the zip ties were replaced with Tesa electrical tape and then the final harnesses was sent to Rhode Island Wiring to cover the harness with a braided cloth cover appropriately color coded for the Austin-Healey Sprite.

Tesa Harness tape



The only information we have on the alternator is that it is a rebuilt unit designed to replace the Lucas alternator that we had in the car previously. It is rated output is 65 amps.

Alternator Invoice

Hazard Switch and Lights

Of course, the Bugeye did not come equipped with hazard or caution lights. However, in today’s world and particularly with such a small car, hazard lights are really essential. The Classic Technologies relay/fuse box incorporates a hazard flasher relay system. We purchased a Lucas 155SA hazard switch to activate the system.

Lucas Hazard Switch

The switch is a push/pull type and incorporates a flashing warning light in the body of the switch. The switch will be added to the dash panel we built and is installed behind the dash.

The Lucas 155SA hazard switch was used in many British cars, and apparently the one we ordered was used in the 1974-75 triumph TR6 and the 1973-77 Triumph Spitfire. Unfortunately, the color of the wiring leads from the switch terminals did not match any of the Triumph wiring diagrams that we could locate online. Establishing the proper wiring pattern to make the turn indicators and the hazard flashers work as they should involved a great deal of trial and error and considerably more time than anticipated. However, at the end of the day we were successful. The chart below shows the transition from the pigtail wire colors to the wiring used in the Bugeye as we wired the car.

Hazard Switch Wiring Schematic

Hazard Light Switch Wiring System Schematic

Driving Lights with Operating Warning Lamp

We have decided to not install the reproduction Lucas 576 driving lights on the Bugeye. However, we have wired the car for the easy addition of the lights at a later date should we want to add them. These lights were used on the Sebring Sprites prepared by Donald Healey for the endurance race.

Driving Lights on Sebring Sprites

The lights may be sourced from Bugeyeguys.com. Installing the lights does require drilling two holes in the front of the bonnet. This is an image of the lights as installed on a Bugeye (not mine) showing the relative position of the mounting to the crease in the bonnet.

Sebring Driving Lights

And, here is a view from the inside the bonnet

Driving Light Mount Inside View

Our wiring scheme is shown below. The lights are activated by a toggle switch behind the dash and we incorporated a warning lamp as well. The switch is powered by a connection to the high beam terminal of the dip switch so they can only be activated when the high beam lights are on. A dedicated bosch relay was added for the driving lights and was located on the wood support block behind the dash grab handle.

Driving Lights Wiring Schematic

Variable Speed Wiper Controller

Some years ago Ed Esslinger authored an article on a Sunbeam Tiger web site about a kit he put together to provide unlimited variable control of the speed of the Lucas wiper motor. We tried one of his kits on the Big Healey and liked it. Great for handling mist and light rain. Unfortunately it doesn’t make the wipers go any faster! 

We installed the control knob for the variable speed rheostat on the vertical panel we made and installed behind the dash. We took advantage of the blanking bolt nuts intended for the steering column bracket in a RH drive car as a location for mounting the  controller electronics. No holes were drilled in the chassis. This is the instruction sheet provided with the kit: https://valvechatter.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/Wiper-Control.pdf

Wiper Interval Controller


The following image illustrates the actual wiring in the Bugeye using the Classic Technologies Relay/Fuse Box:

JWR Bugeye Wiper Controller Wiring System Schematic

SpeedHut Electronic GPS Speedometer and Tachometer

We had experienced problems with the speedometer feed from the Datsun 5 speed gearbox in the past. There is very little room in the gearbox tunnel to properly align and tighten the speedometer cable into the gearbox fitting, so we decided to “upgrade” to an electronic GPS speedometer. Both the speedometer and tachometer were sourced from Bugeyeguys.com although they are made by SpeedHut. David, at Bugeyeguys, had gauge faces made for the SpeedHut units to make them look like the original Smiths gauges for the Sprite.

The speedometer and tachometer are designed to be used together and take advantage of mini-connectors to link the gauges together. The speedometer has a red/black wire that is connected to constant battery power and in our application the wire is spliced into a green wire and routed to fuse position #5 through deutsch connector C6. Switched power is provided to the fuel gauge, the speedometer and the tachometer with a red wire routed to fuse position #13 through deutsch connector B5.

The white wire for the speedometer and tachometer gauge lights is joined with the white wire from the power inverter and is then connected to the panel lamp switch. 

The blue wire from the speedometer provides power to the high beam warning light in the speedometer and is routed through deutsch connector D2 to the high beam terminal of the dip switch. When the high beam lights are triggered a red LED light illuminates on the face of the speedometer gauge. 

The black wires from the speedometer, and the tachometer are joined together and connected to terminal #5 in the LH ground bus bar. The black wire from the inverter is connected to terminal #4 in the LH ground bus bar. The inverter is a small 1”x1” black cube that is fastened to the back of the dash fascia with a 3M sticky pad just to the left of the steering column.

The yellow/green wire from the tachometer is routed to the (-) terminal of the ignition coil through deutsch connector E1.

The blue wire from the tachometer is for the charging warning light and is spliced into a brown/yellow wire and routed through deutsch connector E1 to the alternator small spade connector.  

Full instructions may be found at this link: Speedhut Speedo and Tach Instructions

Finally, the gps sensor wire is screwed into the fitting on the back of the speedo and routed behind the dash facia to the LH side. It is then routed between the door and the polished aluminum dash trim and is secured to the top of the dash with a magnetized plate.

Speedhut Speedometer

GPS Speedometer Sensor

Speedhut tachometer

LED interior gauge lamps, flashers, side and tail lights and brake lights

All of the lights were converted from the original incandescent bulbs to LEDs sourced from Moss Motors.

LED Interior footwell and boot courtesy lights

LED interior footwell, map and boot courtesy lights operate remotely by a key fob or manually with a toggle switch on the panel behind the dash.  We ordered the RF Relay and key fob from Amazon. DieseRC 433Mhz Universal Wireless Remote Control Switch DC 12V 1CH RF Relay Receiver Module with 1 Transmitter, EV1527 Learning Code Remote Switch

RF Courtesy Light Controller

Visit the DieseRC Store. The relay may be set to operate with a delay, so in our case once the fob is clicked, the interior lights will remain on for forty seconds and then extinguish on their own with no action by the operator. We have also wired in a toggle switch so that the interior lights may be operated manually. The relay is mounted on the panel fabricated for the toggle switches immediately behind the dash.

The relay has five terminals:

Courtesy Light RF Controller Wiring Schematic

The boot has two aimable LED lights. Each one is mounted on the LH and RH rear interior quarter panels. These lights were sourced from SuperBright LEDS. 

Boot LED Light

Boot Light Measurements

Wiring for the front lights will route directly from the designated toggle switch on the panel behind the dash to the lights. Wiring for the rear lights will be routed to the rear of the car through deutsch connector F1.

In the front footwells we also installed LED lights sourced from Better Car Lighting in the UK. We made some brackets to secure the lights and will use the bonnet prop stay captured nuts from the inside to mount them.

Footwell LED Lights

Footwell Lights and Brackets

Turn Indicator Warning Buzzer

The turn indicator switch in the Bugeye is not self-canceling. While there is a warning lamp on the dash located between the speedometer and the tachometer, it is often not sufficiently bright to let the driver know to turn the switch to the off position. We installed a little buzzer sourced from Radio Shack to provide an audible alert when the flashers are turned on. The black wire from the buzzer is for ground and is connected to the LH Ground Bus Bar Terminal #2. The red wire is connected with a 4-way bullet connector to the flasher warning lamp.

Radio Shack Turn Indicator Warning Buzzer

Dual Redundant Fuel Pumps

Although the newer solid state fuel pumps aren’t as likely to leave a driver standed when compared to the points pumps of the sixties, we still thought it a good idea to install two pumps in the Bugeye. Information about the pumps, their mounting and their plumbing is addressed in other posts about the fuel system, but notes about the electrical provisions for the pumps are appropriate here. 

A toggle switch mounted in the panel behind the dash controls the fuel pumps. At center, neither pump is activated (a great anti-theft device); a throw upward activates the SU pump, and a throw downward activates the Master Pump. Each pump has its own black ground wire and they are mounted to the chassis near the pumps. 

The pumps can be switched on the fly. The little chart below illustrates the wiring from the switch to the pumps.

Fuel Pumps Switch Wiring Schematic

The primary pump is the electronic SU pump. The pump is model number AUF214 and it was purchased from A.H. Spares in the U.K.

SU Electronic Fuel Pump from AH Spares

SU Pump

SU Pump Model Number

SU Pump Electronic

The back up pump was sourced from Pegasus Racing and it is a Facet Cylindrical pump rated at 2.75-4 psi.

Facet Pump From Pegasus Racing

Facet Low Pressure Pump

Modified Windscreen Washer Pump (plunger) 

The Bugeye came equipped with a windscreen washer system that was activated by pushing a plunger mounted in the dash. The pressure created by pushing the plunger moved the cleaning fluid out to the windscreen. The process worked well enough, but when the Big Healey was restored we became aware of Stu Brennan, an owner of a Sunbeam Tiger, who had converted his hand activated pump windscreen washer to an electric washer. Stu’s idea was to put an electric momentary micro switch inside the aluminum pump canister thereby eliminating the need to install an additional switch somewhere. Since the washer in the Tiger is the same as the one in both the Big Healey and the Bugeye we decided to give it a try.

Two items needed to be purchased for the conversion. An electric pump typically used on later Sprites was ordered from Moss Motors.  A Home Depot switch was purchased, Gardner-Bender, Push Button, GSW-22, SPST always-off.

The old pump was easily disassembled by un-crimping the lip from around the plastic bottom. The metal is relatively soft, so it unfolds easily. The bottom and the old rubber bellows came right out, leaving only the plunger within the shell of the pump.

Modified Washer Pump

Washer Pump Parts

To provide enough depth for the switch in the canister a slot was cut in the plastic face plate. The slot also provided space for the switch wires to exit the canister. To provide stability for the switch in the canister and to use as a spacer a circle washer was cut of 1/4” wide plywood that fit tightly in the canister and placed it on the switch secured with double nuts.

Washer Micro Switch

Modified Cap

The following diagram shows the wiring modifications made to adapt the new electric switch and pump to the electrical system:

Washer Pump and SwitchmWiring Schematic

The modified switch has two red pigtail wires. Insulated spade connectors join the pigtails with the orange wire routed to the fuse box and the pump. The “negative“ side – black wire (–)  of the pump is grounded to the LH Ground Bus Bar Terminal #1. The pump is mounted to a custom bracket connected to the housing for the bonnet hinge behind the dash.

Washer Pump Push Button

Radiator Electric Fan

We expect that the Bugeye with an engine in good shape and combined with a new aluminum radiator will run at comfortable coolant temperatures. However, in slow moving traffic conditions even an efficient Bugeye’s cooling system can be tested. To address those rare conditions, we decided to install a pusher electric fan. We elected to add a thermostatic control switch along with a toggle switch. Like our other toggle switches, this one is reachable but hidden from view in the custom panel behind the dash. The wiring diagram for the fan is below:

Washer Pump Wiring Schematic










Original Fuse Box Modification

The original electrical system on them MK2 was protected by two fuses. The fuse block was located on the control box bracket assembly mounted on the LH engine bay valance. The voltage regulator and the horn relay were also located inside the control box. The bracket assembly had a metal cover secured by a thumb screw that protected the electrical connections to the relay and fuse block.

Original Control Block, Bracket Assembly and Cover

As explained in other electrical system entries to this website, I am using the Classic Technologies fuse/relay panel that provides for 15 fused circuits with 34 pin connectors, 7 relays including horn, ignition power, fog lights, high beams and low beams headlights, starter and accessory power and 2 flashers for the turn signals and hazard lights. The Classic technologies Fuse Box is located under the dash fascia on the RH side of the interior.

Classic Technologies Fuse and Relay Box

In my revised wiring system I used the bracket assembly as a cover for three barrier blocks used for wiring runs to the front of the car. I know the terminals and wiring appear a hodgepodge but it was necessary to configure them in this fashion to hide them all under the bracket assembly!

Barrier Block Terminals Under Original Fuse Panel Assembly

The top of the bracket assembly was then used to mount a number of other electrical connections:

Power Steering Pump Alternator Fogranger Wiring on Bracket Assembly

The original control box cover would no longer cover, nor fit, the bracket assembly. I turned to Brandon Tyree, welder/fabricator at Gassman Automotive http://www.gassmanautomotive.com to fabricate a new electrical connections box cover. The images below show the cover. In final form it will be painted gloss black to match the heater box. The box is mounted to the valance with two 10-24 x 1/2″ machine screws and the original thumb screw slightly repurposed. Four slots were designed into the face of the box to permit heat to escape. The box sits very close to the exhaust manifolds and I did not want it to collect the heat.

Electrical Connections Box and Power Steering Pump-Reservoir Cover

Electrical Connections Box and Power Steering Pump Cover

Electrical Connections Box and Power Steering Pump-Reservoir Cover

Electrical Connections Box Cooling Vents


Jaguar Electrical Components

In this entry I will identify some, but not all of the major electrical components in the MK2, that are not addressed in their own entry or post.

Electrical System Overview

The Jaguar MK2 being British and a product of the mid-sixties has a positive earth electrical system. The starting system utilized a battery mounted under the bonnet, an ammeter, a starter solenoid on the firewall, a starter motor, a dynamo – commonly referred to as a generator in the U.S., a voltage control box or regulator along with a fuse box consisting of just two fuses, a Lucas ignition coil and a Lucas distributor with manually adjusted points.

My Mk2 has an updated electrical system. I have converted the system to negative ground an have installed a significantly upgraded fuse box and complementary wiring harness.


I am installing an alternator in lieu of the original dynamo/generator. The alternator I am using is an Hitachi manufactured by Valeo for the 2004-2008 Nissan Maxima. It produces 120 amps. Detail information:

Hitachi 120 AMP Alternator 

  • Car Quest #11017A
  • Pure Energy # 13940N
  • Hitachi #LR1110710FAM
  • Plug 306
  • 2 1/2” Pulley, 17mm shaft
  • OE Manufacturer: Valeo

I ordered the Connector plug or “pigtail,” from National Quick Start Sales: http://store.alternatorparts.com/partnoc1900.aspx

Part # C1900 Hitachi, Mando, and Mitsubishi Alternator Wiring Repair Plug, Female. Alternator Wiring Harness Repair Connector with 2 Female Terminals

Being Japanese, the mounts for the alternator are obviously metric – and of different sizes! 18mm on rear bolt and 15mm on the front bolt with a 5/8″ wrench on both nuts.

The power input post for the Hitachi alternator is, unfortunately for me, on the top of the alternator when it is mounted to the motor. In this position, the top of the post is only about 1/4″ from the bottom of the steal air conditioner compressor mounting bracket. This can be seen in the image below:

Alternator Power Post

Alternator Power Post

Obviously, this is not a good situation. Bill Rader, owner of Blue Sky Radiator and Electrical came to my rescue! He was able to place an adapter on the alternator that redirected to power post to the rear of the alternator thereby eliminating my problem.

Redirected Power Post on Alternator

Redirected Power Post on Alternator


To be determined.


I had such good fortune with the Dutch “123” electronic distributor in my Big Healey, that I chose to use the same product in the MK2. The Jag does use a different model, number “Jag 6-R-V.” The unit offers 16 different advance-curves, that can be selected via a little switch. Information on the Forums suggests that the #1 or #2 advance curve may be the best to use with the 3.8 Jag motor with total advance of no more than 34 degrees. In our test runs of the engine we did NOT connect the vacuum line to the distributor. I will need to do additional research before settling in on a particular setting.

123 Electronic Distributor

123 Electronic Distributor


direct. : CCW (topview)
voltage : 4,0-15,0 Volts
range : 500 – 7000 rpm
temperature : -30 to 85 Celsius
coil : stock or High Energy coil
  primary coil NOT below 1,0 ohm
dwell : constant current, fully autom.
time-out : after 1 second current is switched off
spark-bal. : better than 0,5 degr. crankshaft
vacuum : advance starts at 5 inchHg
  stops at 10 degr. @ 10 inchHg
  gearshift retard > 17 inchHg
max.advance : 45 degr. crankshaft
wiring : red = +6V or +12V, black = ‘-‘ coil


Installation instructions are available here:

123 JAG6 Distributor Installation Instructions

There is considerable debate in the Jaguar community about the the vacuum advance for the 123 distributor if used on the 3.8 engine. Some say to not connect the vacuum advance, others say to use the ported vacuum advance port on the carburetor, but my friend Mike Gassman, from Gassman Automotive has suggested that performance will be safely enhanced by using direct manifold vacuum. This article  written by a retired General Motors engineer corroborates Mike’s thinking. Ported Vacuum vs Manifold Vacuum.

I am going to try the manifold vacuum for my project and see how the engine performs. I have decided to split the vacuum hose that connects the manifold and the brake reserve tank with a “T” connector. The smaller connection is then routed to the vacuum port on the 123 distributor. If you choose to do this, DO SO AT YOUR OWN RISK! Manufacturers would recommend against doing anything that might compromise braking vacuum but in my opinion, and that of others, the reserve tank provides more than ample vacuum pressure for the braking system.

Vacuum Line to Distributor

Vacuum Line to Distributor


Ignition Coil

The original Lucas coil was replaced with a “Flame Thrower”  high output, 3.0 ohm, 40,000 volt, internally resisted unit made by Pertronix, model number 40501. The coil has such a prominent place on the engine that I wanted it to look nice with the polished cam covers. Consequently, I opted to go with the chrome case for the “bling” effect, but it is also available in black.

Pertronix Ignition Coil 40501

Pertronix Ignition Coil 40501

Ignition – Spark Plug Wiring

I elected to purchase a ridiculously expensive assembled wiring conduit kit for Pertronix ignition from XKs Unlimited using 7mm black wire. The spark plug and coil ends are pre-installed.

Spark Plug High Tension Wiring with Conduit

Spark Plug High Tension Wiring with Conduit

Spark Plugs

I am using NGK BPR5ES plugs with a 0.045 gap as recommended by Paul Salt on the Saloon-Lovers Jag Forum for solid wires with no resistors. BP5ES otherwise.


“High Torque” or “Gear Reduction” starters are available for the MK2 3.8. These starters are considerably smaller and lighter than the original Lucas starter, but more importantly they have considerably more cranking power. The starter can be set up to either use or eliminate the original starter solenoid and I decided to keep the original set-up. I sourced the new starter from SNG Barratt.

SNG Barratt High Torque Starter

SNG Barratt High Torque Starter

The starter is located on the right side of the engine and is secured to the bell housing with two 3/8″-24 x 1/12″ hex head bolts, flat washers and split washers. I am using the original starter solenoid on the firewall so it is necessary to connect the short jumper wire to the + terminal of the starter upon installation. Since it is a bit crowded once the starter is mounted I attached the cable from the starter to the starter solenoid before installation of the starter. A rubber boot was used to cover the terminal. It will be connected to the firewall starter solenoid after the engine is mounted in the car.

Starter Installed on Engine

Starter Installed on Engine

Starter Installed on Engine - Close-up

Starter Installed on Engine – Close-up


Starter Solenoid

I am using a new reproduction solenoid. This is an image of a trial fitting of the solenoid on the Weather Protection Flange on the firewall.

Adaptor Plate Assembly for Solenoid and Solenoid Weather Protection Flange

Adaptor Plate Assembly for Solenoid and Solenoid Weather Protection Flange

Upgraded Brake Switch

I had planned to replace the MK2’s original hydraulic brake switch that activates the rear brake lights when the brakes are applied. The hydraulic switches currently available seem to experience a higher than normal failure rate. I encountered this same issue with my Austin-Healey 3000. In the Healey I replaced the hydraulic switch with a plug in the 4-way adaptor and installed a mechanical switch at the brake pedal. The wiring is the same as for the electrical switch. The mechanical switch was sourced from Watson’s Streetworks.

While I purchased the Watson’s switch to use in the MK2, I also found that Ron Francis Wiring sells an updated low pressure hydraulic switch that looks and mounts like the original. I decided to give this switch a try.

Ron Francis Hydraulic Brake Switch SW-32

Ron Francis Hydraulic Brake Switch SW-32


The horns are located at the front of the car and on either side of the engine compartment immediately below the radiator. My 1964 MK2 was equipped with horn model number WT (Wind Tone) 618U. I media blasted the two horns after stuffing the Flute with paper to avoid getting sand in the workings. I then took the domed covers off the high and low tone horns and painted each horn with POR-15 and overcoated with their spray Blackcoat product. I then sent the horns to E. Lawrie Rhoades, 7 Knollwood Rd, Medfield, MA 02052-2703 to have the electrical mechanism cleaned and tuned. Lawrie is a recognized expert on horn and wiper motor repair.

Horn Assemblies

Horn Assemblies

Horn Internals

Horn Internals

Horn Mounting Brackets

Both of the horn mounting brackets were also media blasted and painted with the POR-15 products. As the Service Manual indicates, the bracket is important in providing a ground to the horn, therefore, “Care should be taken in ensuring a good contact between the earth strap and horn bracket on the left hand horn.”  The horn is  secured to the bracket with two 1/4″ – 28 x  3/4″ hex head bolts with shakeproof washers and 1/4″ – 24 hex head nuts. The bracket is fastened to the bumper bracket with a single 3/8″ -24 x 7/8″ hex head bolt with both a flat washer and a shakeproof washer followed by a 3/8″ – 24 hex nut.

The LH Horn is the Low note horn and the RH Horn is the high note horn.

This image illustrates the connection of the ground wire to the car’s frame. the wire eyelet is fastened to the frame with a 1/4″ – 28 x 1/2″ hex head bolt, shakeproof washer and a 1/4″ -24 hex nut.

Horn Ground Wire

Horn Ground Wire

Horn Mounting Brackets

Horn Mounting Bracket

This image illustrates mounting and orientation of the horns below the radiator:

Horn Orientation

Horn Orientation

Headlamp Dipper Switch

The Headlamp Dipper Switch was in good condition and was cleaned for reuse. The switch is secured to the floorboard with two #10 – 32 x 1 7/8″ hex head bolts through distance pieces with shake proof washers. A rubber cap is pushed over the end of the foot switch.

The upper part of the switch base plate is the shorter side with the mounting screw hole offset to the right. This orientation is instructive for the proper location of the switch wiring on the three terminals. The terminal farthest to the right has the blue/red single wire, the lowest terminal (closest to the floor) has the single solid blue wire, and the left most terminal has two blue/white wires.

Headlamp Dipper Switch

Headlamp Dipper Switch

Dipper Switch Wiring

Dipper Switch Wiring

Headlamp Dipper Switch

Headlamp Dipper Switch

Headlamp Dipper Switch

Headlamp Dipper Switch

Renewed Dipper Switch

Renewed Dipper Switch

Renewed Dipper Switch

Renewed Dipper Switch


Direction Indicator/Headlamp Flasher

My MK2 has a Model 85 unit. I cleaned the assembly. The wiring appeared to be in very good condition but the nylon “spring” that catches the arm in the left or right position was broken.

Direction Indicator/Headlamp Flasher Switch

Direction Indicator/Headlamp Flasher Switch

Turn Indicator Flasher Side View

Turn Indicator Flasher Side View

There was a time when Lucas made and sold repair kits to replace the nylon spring. Today they are a challenge to find but they do come up on ebay from time to time. I was able to purchase two of the repair kits. The kit includes the spring and the rivet used to hold the components together.

Lucas Turn Indicator Spring Set

Lucas Turn Indicator Spring Set

Turn Indicator Nylon Spring

Turn Indicator Nylon Spring

To replace the spring one removes two slotted screws from the plastic electrical fitting. This must be done carefully as there are a total of four springs between the aluminum housing and the plastic fitting.

Turn Indicator Springs

Turn Indicator Springs

Once the electrical fitting is removed one has access to the rivet that must be drilled/cut out.

Turn Indicator Disassembly

Turn Indicator Disassembly

Turn Indicator Rivet

Turn Indicator Rivet

It is a tedious and somewhat challenging task to install the new rivet. I actually visited Mike Gassman of Gassman Automotive to help me with the install.

Turn Indicator Rivet

Turn Indicator Rivet

I held the assembly in place over a steel rod while Mike used several punches to get the job done. We didn’t do as well as the factory but we succeeded.

After placing all of the electrical contacts, springs and nylon/plastic components in their proper place one carefully places the black electrical fitting over the assembly and compresses carefully while a friend (spouse) inserts and tightens the two screws that hold the assembly together. This little piece consumed a lot of energy and time, but now functions as new!

Turn Signal Indicator Lights

The MK2 used a short pigtail harness to connect the turn signal switch, the flasher relay and the indicator bulbs located on the steering column. My original harness was in very good condition and will be reinstalled after cleaning. Three warning bulbs are provided in the harness.

Turn Signal and Overdrive Indicator Bulbs, Holders, and Pigtail

Turn Signal and Overdrive Indicator Bulbs, Holders, and Pigtail

The LH bulb for the LH turn signal, the center bulb to indicate overdrive engagement and the RH bulb for the RH turn signal. The two turn signal indicator bulbs are replaced with green BA7 LED micro bayonet bulbs and the overdrive bulb is a clear white BA7. Bulbs were sourced from 4sightautomotive lighting at http://www.bettercarlighting.co.uk. This image shows the original bulb as well as the LED replacement:

2 Watt Liliput Turn Signal Indicator Bulb and Replacement BA7LED Green Micro Bayonet Bulb

2 Watt Liliput Turn Signal Indicator Bulb and Replacement BA7LED Green Micro Bayonet Bulb

I am also using LED flasher bulbs at each of the four corners of the car. Using the LED bulbs requires a LED flasher relay that is incorporated into the Classic Technologies Relay/fuse panel that I am using for my electrical system. The pigtail is held in place by a small bracket located on the backside of the LH Fascia Board Assembly and the bulbs plug into the Upper Switch Cover Assembly at Centre of Steering Wheel.

Turn Signal and Overdrive Indicator Bulbs, Holders, Pigtail and Mounting Bracket on LH Fascia Board Assembly

Turn Signal and Overdrive Indicator Bulbs, Holders, Pigtail and Mounting Bracket on LH Fascia Board Assembly

Overdrive Operating Switch

This switch which activates the electric overdrive is located on the right side of the steering column. Power is derived from fuse position #14 on the CT fuse box. With lever activation a signal is sent to the overdrive interlock, or top gear switch located on the top of the gearbox and then to the overdrive solenoid. A warning indicator bulb is illuminated when the overdrive is engaged.

Switch, on Gearbox Top Cover, Operating Reversing Light and Top Gear for Overdrive Unit

These two switches are identical. As indicated, both are located on the gearbox. I purchased new switches, but found after testing that both original switches worked fine so I left the original switches in place.

Overdrive Interlock or Top Gear Switch at gearbox

Overdrive Interlock or Top Gear Switch at gearbox

Original and New Lucas Overdrive and Reverse Switch

Original and New Lucas Overdrive and Reverse Switch

Oil Pressure Element

The Oil Pressure element or sensor is located directly above the Oil Filter Assembly on the RH side of the cylinder block. I replaced the element with a new Lucas item.Oil Pressure Element

Oil Pressure Element Mounted

Oil Pressure Element Mounted