Wiring to the rear of the car

Posted on July 5, 2024 by valv8988

We completed the wiring harness for the central part of the car and to the bonnet before the Bugeye went for paint. Now that the car is home we are able to finish up the wiring to the rear so that we can send the harness components off to Rhode Island Wiring to have them wrap the harnesses in cloth braid.

Crawling into the inside rear of a Bugeye, or “hole” as I refer to it, is no easy task. It is best handled by a nimble young contortionist – not by a 6′ 1″ seventy-two year old! Wiring the tail lights with brake lights, flashers and side lights, the license plate lamp, the fuel level sender, the fuel pumps and rear courtesy lights required many a trip into the depths of the “hole.”

The rear flashers require the installation of spire nuts to the body. We purchased some new ones and mounted them.

Rear Flashers Spire Nuts

The original Sprite MK I had a mechanical fuel pump but with the onset of later Sprites, and the 1275 engine, the design was modified to incorporate a rear mounted electric pump. In our case, we mounted the SU pump as it would have been secured in the later Sprites, but we also added in series a redundant low-pressure Facet pump with a dash mounted switch enabling the driver to switch between the two pumps as desired. The center position on the switch disconnects power to both pumps providing a form of anti-theft deterrent.

We fit the rear courtesy lights to each of the rear boot trim panels. We purchased the panels from Bugeyeguys.com. They required considerable trimming to fit them to the car, but once achieved we were able to mount the lights and complete the necessary wiring. The panels will eventually be covered in a red vinyl that matches the other interior panels.

Rear Trim Panels and Courtesy Lights

In the rear we resorted to using rubber covered bullet connectors for a number of fittings. This was done because it is hard to reach into the back of the car and if it became necessary to separate wires for one reason or another it is easier to accomplish with the bullet connectors as opposed to the Deutsch connectors. Since weather isn’t an issue in the boot we should not experience any problems with the bullet connectors.

Once we established our wire lengths and connections we pulled the harness out of the car to send off to have them braided in black with the signature baby-blue tracer used in the Sprite. Originally, all of the wires to the rear of the car were bundled in one braided wire package and routed to the rear under the door sill and rear trim panels. Because we added wires to the mix we decided to bundle the wires into two four-wire groups to run in parallel under the panels. Hopefully this will cause the trim panels to protrude less and yield a nicer finished product.

Bugeye Restoration Video Episode Seventy-one shows the creation and installation of the electrical wiring in the rear of the car for the exterior lights, interior courtesy lights, the fuel pumps, and the fuel sender for the fuel gauge. Fitting of the rear trim panels is also shown.

https://vimeo.com/978445012/5aa017a2ba?share=copy

The following content is found in this video:

0:00 – Wiring for tail lights and flashers

1:24 – Spire nuts for side lights/flashers

1:40 – Wiring the side light/flasher fixtures

2:40 – Chrome trim rings and red beehive glass

3:25 – All rear lights mounted

3:36 – Internal rear lights wiring

4:17 – License plate wiring

5:39 – Dash “F” connector wiring to the rear of the car

6:15 – Bullet connectors for lights wiring

7:54 – Rear courtesy lights and trim panels

12:15 – Fuel pump wiring

14:43 – Facet fuel pump fuel filter

15:00 – Fuel level sender

15:42 – Floor rubber grommet for fuel sender wire

16:00 – Removing wiring to have Rhode Island Wiring braid the harness

16:28 – Taping the wires

Fuel Pumps, Fuel and Brake Pipes and License Plate

Posted on November 14, 2023 by valv8988

The Bugeye began life with a 948 cc four cylinder motor that had a mechanical fuel pump mounted to the engine block. We converted to an electronic SU negative ground 12 volt fuel pump years ago and it was mounted in the engine bay. Then we mounted the pump in the rear of the car as outlined in an earlier post: https://valvechatter.com/?p=13599

SU electronic fuel pump negative earth

The SU pump was sourced from AH Spares in the UK. After acquiring the Michigan body shell we decided to modify the fuel delivery system yet again to incorporate a redundant electronic pump to have a ready back up in the case of a pump failure. The back up pump was sourced from Pegasus Racing and it is a Facet Cylindrical pump rated at 2.75-4 psi.

Facet Cylindrical 2.75-4 PSI Negative earth electronic fuel pump

The two pumps are installed in series and will be wired with a toggle switch permitting the selection of either pump or no pump at all – an effective theft deterrent. Nut serts (1/4″-20) were installed in the rear bulkhead to serve as mounting points for the rubber isolators, also purchased from Pegasus, that fit between the bulkhead and the pumps.

A new stainless steel pre-bent fuel pipe was purchased from Summit Racing, modified to accommodate the new pump setup and installed in the car.

The Cunifer (nickel/copper alloy) brake pipes were completed and trial fitted to the car. In a few places this required cutting pipe and making bubble flares on the end of the pipe. Bubble flares are similar to but not the same a double flares.

Lastly, nut serts were installed in the existing holes in the back of the body for the license plate and the plate was also fir to the car.

All of these actions are shown in detail in Bugeye Restoration Video Fifty-one: https://vimeo.com/884536057/11e607b366?ts=0&share=copy

Assorted Fuel System Modifications

Posted on March 15, 2020 by valv8988

Fuel Pump and Fuel Lines

The Original Fuel System

The fuel system consists of the fuel tank, the fuel pump, the carburetters and the air cleaners. The original fuel system included the following: Fuel tank: 14.4 U.S. gallon steel tank Fuel pump: SU electric Carburetters: Twin 1 3/4” semi-downdraft HD6 Air Cleaners: Coopers “pancake” type.

Modified Fuel System

Aluminum Fuel Tank

I replaced the steel tank with an aluminum version sourced from Hemphill’s Healey Haven in Maryland.

Aluminum Fule Tank

Solid State SU Fuel Pump

I used the original mounting bracket, but replaced the pump with a solid state version of the original fuel pump. The pump was supplied by Burlen in the U.K.

Solid State Fuel Pump

Redundant Fuel Pump

I expected the solid state unit to perform better than the original with its “points,” but I still remember problems with the original pump while I was driving the car in college. I would give it a few good “whacks,” and it would start pumping again. I had read about installing a redundant pump either parallel or in-line to avoid dead fuel pump problems. I mounted the auxiliary pump on the rear boot wall and ran it in-line with the SU. The restoration blog explains the installation. I used a Master E8016S electric pump available from Autozone. I installed a toggle switch on a small switch panel under the wiper motor that controls the fuel pumps. At center, neither pump is activated (a great anti-theft device); a throw upward activates the SU pump, and a throw downward activates the Master Pump. The pumps can be switched on the fly.

Master Fuel Pump

Auxiliary Fuel Pump Installed

Toggle Switch Panel

Fuel Gauge Dampener

Every Healey owner experiences the erratic swings of the fuel gauge needle. Zims Autotechnik, www.allzim.com , 1804 Reliance Parkway, Bedford, TX 76021, 800-356-2964, sells a little electronic device (see image to the right) that mitigates the needle swing. I believe it was originally conceived for the Porsche 356. Steve Gerow shared this little tip. I ordered one, installed it in a few minutes and sure enough it works! $19.95 for the part. Fuel Gauge Dampener instructions.JPG are provided, but Steve’s photo tells the whole story!

Fuel Gauge Dampener

Carburetters

I replaced the original HD6 SU carbs with 2″ HD8s to boost HP a bit. I purchased these from someone on the Healey list and had them rebuilt by Joe Curto. I was pleased with his results. The older used units polished nicely. Using the HD8s did require switching to a later intake manifold from a BJ8 as well, to take advantage of the 2″ diameter carbs.

HD8 Carbs

Carburetter Choke

The choke mechanism for the BJ8 carbs is a dual line system as opposed to the single cable used with the original HD6 carbs. So, I ordered the HD8 choke bracket and cabling and installed it in the Bloody Beast.

Choke Firewall Bracket

Air Cleaners

In 2008 when I restored my car, I decided to replace the original pancake Cooper air cleaners and use the “itg” competition foam air cleaner available from Denis Welch. The air cleaner is a single unit working with both carburetors. For appearances, I painted the red plastic body of the air cleaner a gloss black.

However, recently, as part of my “ten-year renewal” process I have moved away from the ITG filter and now use twin ram pipes with individual trumpet filters. This change is explained in this post: https://valvechatter.com/?p=12574

ITG Air Cleaner

Aston Quick Release Fuel Filler Cap

I like the looks of the racing heritage Aston cap that also has its practical ease of use advantage. To install, it is necessary to cut off the original fuel filler pipe and solder a threaded ring onto the pipe. The cap then screws onto the collar. It gives a very nice finish to the fuel system!

Aston threaded collar

Aston Fuel Filler Cap

Chapter 79 Week Forty-Nine November, 19 2007

Posted on March 15, 2020 by valv8988

I am now waiting on Jack Harper to get free from his shop duties at Coachworks to come by the house and help me with starting and tuning the engine. While waiting, I took a few moments to check on sealing the firewall from fumes and heat emitted from the engine bay. I turned off the the lights in the garage and put a shop light in the engine bay and then inspected the firewall for any light coming through the firewall. As expected, I did find a few places, so I used a little 3M body caulk to seal the holes.

Another variance from originality on my project is the “personalized” arm rest. Its standard location makes it virtually useless as a functioning arm rest while driving. I am going to make a wooden box to fit the arm rest pad sourced from Heritage Upholstery and Trim to serve as a storage console and to lift the height of the pad to make it work as an arm rest while driving. I will cover the box with matching black carpet and hinge it at the rear of the pad. To begin my little project, I made a mock-up of the box from a cardboard shoebox. For me, 2 3/4” appeared to be the proper height of the box, with the cushion on top of the box.

Arm Rest Prototype

Jack Harper came over to the house and we readied the engine for starting. First, we connected the cables for the throttle and choke. While the previous injection of oil through the engine should have sufficiently lubricated everything, I still pulled the spark plugs and turned the engine with the starter until the gauge showed oil pressure. I put 5 gallons of fuel in the tank and we turned on the ignition to try out the fuel pump. The carb float chambersfilled and we were then ready to try firing up the Bloody Beast.

We reinstalled the spark plugs, turned on the ignition and hit the starter button. After about 10 seconds we had the engine running! Jack ran the engine up between 2,000 and 2,500 rpms and then we adjusted the carbs to bring the idle down to about 700. After 30 years another Healey is saved and running. It was an exciting moment.

I did have two problems to be fixed. I had taken apart the hot water valve, cleaned it, reassembled and installed it on the engine. It leaked! So I ordered a new one to replace the original. The second problem was my own stupidity! I did not replace the Toyota gearbox real oil seal and I quickly discovered that I should have as a pool of MT-90 formed under the car. New seal ordered also. Cannot wait to get both pieces, install them, and get her running again!

Chapter 15 – Cleaning and Trial Fitting

Posted on March 15, 2020 by valv8988

September 27, 2003

Front Suspension

It is so nice to begin assembling clean and freshly painted components. I decided to assemble the front suspension just to make sure I had all pieces, proper bolts and etc. Rebuilt brake calipers and swivel pins from Bruce at Healey Surgeons. Primed or painted bits courtesy of Jeremy at Maple Hill Restorations.

Left front suspension

Left front brake fittings

October 12, 2003

Fuel Pump and Other Bits

Fuel Pump – Installed new solid state SU fuel pump. Added ground wire was mounted to rear bulkhead.

Fuel pump wiring

Fuel Pump – New

Rear bump box wiring & Clip

Starter Solenoid – Installed new starter solenoid. Affixed new light relay box.

Starter Solenoid – New

Flasher Relay – New

Bonnet Rod – Installed bonnet rod, spring and attachments.

Bonnet Rod New

Bonnet Rod Attached to Lever

Ground Strap – Fastened electric ground strap in boot.

Boot Ground Strap

Voltage Box

A1 – Brown/Blue Wire to Light Switch on Dash

A – Two Brown Wires. One to the A1 terminal on the fuse box; One to the starter solenoid to the terminal with the battery connection.

F – Yellow/green Wire to the F terminal on the generator (alternator)

D – Two Yellow Wires. One to the no charge warning light: One to the D terminal on the generator (alternator)

E – Black Wire to Ground

Rear Axle Assembly – Brake lines, fittings and differential added to the axle.

Rear Axle Brake line 1

Rear Axle Brake line 2

Rear Axle Brake line and differential

Rear Leaf Springs – Installed left and right rear springs. Used rotiserrie brace and scissor jack to lift spring. Lined up and inserted front pin which was not easy to accomplish.

Rear Spring Install 1

Rear Spring Install 2

Rear Spring Install 3

Rear Spring Install 4

Rear Axle Rebound Pad

Rear Axle Install 2

Rear axle U Bolts 1

Rear Axle Installed 2

Blanking Plates – Installed all blanking plates and felts.

Master Cylinders – Installed brake and clutch master cylinders. Getting the pins into the pedal brackets is not easy!

Master Cylinders

Chapter 8 – Disassembly

Posted on March 15, 2020 by valv8988

Fresh Air Intake Assembly – Three screws, two with nuts and one welded onto the tube secure the assembly to the superstructure. Disconnected the air control cable.

Fresh Air Intake Assembly

Flasher Relay – Two cross head screws on top, one on bottom. All have nuts welded on the outside of the wheel well. The bottom screw also holds a wiring harness clamp and the ground wire. Starting from top left and going down – first wire is green with pink stripe, second is green/white stripe, third is white/brown stripe, and fourth is green/yellow stripe. Starting from the right top and going down – first wire is green/brown stripe, second is green/red stripe, third is white/purple stripe and fourth is green/? Stripe. Black ground wire is at bottom.

Flasher Relay Wiring 1

Flasher Relay Wiring 2

Flasher Relay Wiring 3

Bonnet Latch Support Bracket, Lever and Spring – Note that the left side of center has a rubber tube over the spring and extension rod.

Bonnet Latch Return Spring

Bonnet Latch Rod

Bonnet Latch Support Bracket – The bracket is secured by two bolts and nuts.

Bonnet Latch Support Bracket

Bonnet Latch Return

Wiring harness extension for lights and horns – Two clamps located by screws and nuts at the front of the car.

Wiring Harness Clip Screws

Wiring Harness at Front of Car

August 3, 2002

Rear Axle and Related Assembly

The Bump Stop Boxes – were removed from both sides of the car. Two large pozi-drive screws with large washers and nuts located by the rear occasional seats hold the boxes. Two bolts and nuts must also be removed in the side of each box that secure clamps for wiring. In our case the bolts were all broken from wear and tear.

Rear Axle Bump Stop on Car

Rear Axle Bump Stop Removed

Mounting Holes

The Fuel Pump – was removed to get it out of the way of the axle. Disconnected 5/8” in and out fuel pipes to the pump. Remove 4 7/16” bolts into fixed nuts on the rear bulkhead wall. Finally, disconnected wire at knurled fixing knob.

Fuel Pump Mounted to Bracket at Rear Kick Panel

Disconnected White Wire to Fuel Pump

Fuel Pump and Bracket Removed

Boot wiring harness extension – Wiring goes to the fuel sender and lights. We clipped the wire at the bulkhead for easy removal since we knew we would be replacing it. Two clamps with split head screws secure the wiring through the bulkhead wall. Additional connections are then made to route to the tailights.

Fuel Pipe to Pump and Wiring Harness

Wiiring Harness to Boot

Wiring Connector for Lights in Boot

Wiring Clip

Wiring and Handbrake Cable

Wiring Cable Removal

Handbrake cable – The cable was removed from its axle attachment. To save time we just cut the flexible brake line hose to the junction.

Handbrake Components

Handbrake Components at Rear Axle

Rear Shock Absorbers – First removed nut to axle link. Then removed two nuts and bolts to rear bulkhead for each.

Rear Axle – Drain differential fluid from the rear end. Place jack under differential to take pressure off springs. Loosen the four nuts on the U bolts under the mounting bracket. The nuts should be loosened gradually to avoid too much pressure on the spring. Disconnect tramp bar at mounting bracket on axle. Rotate axle and lift and slide out to the right.

Rear Axle U Bolts

Rear Axle U Bolt Mounting Plates

Panhard Rod Mounting

Rear Axle Removed

August 4, 2002

Steering Assembly

Steering Column Support Clamp – There are four holes available for the bolt and nut on the steering column bracket. The bolt was found in the 2nd hole from the firewall. Bolt heads were to the right, nut to the left.

Steering Column Mount

Steering Column Bracket Mount

Steering column bracket – Removed the bracket by loosening four bolts and nuts.

Steering Column Bracket Removed

Steering Column Rubber gasket

Steering Shaft Bracket to Frame Mount from below

Steering Shaft Bracket to Frame Mount from Above

Fuel System

Posted on August 27, 2017 by valv8988

Petrol Filter

AC supplied the fuel filtration device for the Jaguar. My early version includes a filtration screen, but newer versions have a paper filter in the bowl.

The filter is bolted to a mounting bracket with two 5/16″ – 24 x 3/4″ hex head bolts, split washers and hex nuts. The bracket and filter are then mounted to the RH wing valance with two 5/16″ – 24 x 3/4″ hex head bolts, split washers and hex nuts.

Petrol Filter

Petrol Filter & Bracket

I trial fit the fuel filter and fuel pipe to the RH valance.

Fuel Filter and Fuel Pipe Installed

Fuel Lines

I am replacing the hard brake lines, but the original hard fuel lines were in very good shape. I just cleaned them before reinstalling.

The hard fuel lines run along the RH frame rail. Rather than using the original mounting clips, I used a double stainless steel clip that permitted running the fuel and brake pipe in parallel on one side of the clip and the battery cable in the other. Information and photos of the fuel line installation can be found here” https://valvechatter.com/?p=6627.

Petrol Tank Filter

I ordered a new filter for the tank.

Petrol Tank Filter

Petrol Pump

I ordered a new SU electronic petrol pump to replace the old, but still functioning unit.

SU Electronic Petrol Pump AZX1308EN

As part of the trial fitting process, I installed the two rubber grommets with their metal “distance tubes” in the boot. Pushing the grommets into place is no easy task. I placed them in boiling water for a few minutes to soften them and it did seem to help. Also put a little vaseline on the mounting plate to which they are affixed.

Petrol Filter & Bracket

A black 14 AWG wire is used as the ground for the pump and it attaches to the mounting plate via a #10 – 32 x 1/2″ machine screw, flat washer, split washer, and nut. A spade connector is located on the pump for the other end of the wire.

Ground Wire Mounting for Fuel Pump

I cut the new nylon hoses, sourced from SNG Barratt, to length using the originals as patterns, and pressed them onto their pump fittings. I then installed the pump by inserting the pump mounting studs through special large washers (to evenly compress the rubber grommets) and then fastened in place with lock washers and nuts.

Fuel Pump Mounting Studs, Special Washers and nuts

Installed Fuel Pump with Nylon Hoses

Petrol Hoses

New petrol hoses were purchased for installation. I had purchased the hard nylon tubing from SNG Barrett as shown in the image above, but have since decided to use rubber fuel hose. The rubber hose is easier to work with. I did not want to use the fuel tank for the fuel source for a test start-up of the engine, so I plumbed the fuel pump, including the relocated fuel filter, and will use a five gallon plastic fuel can sitting in the spare tire well.

Fuel Pump Hose Fittings 5/16″ Rubber Fuel Hose

Fuel Hose with Filter to Temporary Fuel Source

The petrol hose fittings from the petrol pump were cleaned and clear cad plated for re-use.

Fasteners for Petrol Pump Hose

The image below shows these fasteners securing the fuel hard line that travels to the front of the car from the fuel pump. The image was taken from the floor, looking up to the underside of the boot.

Fuel Connection From Pump to Pipe to Engine Bay

Petrol Tank Element Unit

The unit is secured to the tank with six set screws and 12 copper washers and a cork seal. The unit is positioned in the tank so that the float is toward the front of the car. I did check the fuel gauge with my multimeter and found it to be functioning properly. The swing motion of the Petrol tank Element Unit float arm worked just fine and the interior of the units seemed to be clean and without damage so I just cleaned up the exterior of the mechanism and got it ready to reinstall when the time comes. I ordered a new seal.

Petrol Tank Element Unit, Seal and Fasteners

Throttle Link Rod Assembly on Trunnion

I just media blasted this throttle controls component to zinc plate for reuse.

Throttle Link Rod Assembly on Trunnion

SU HD6 Carburetors

I am using the original HD6s used on my 3.8 motor. The carbs and all of the hardware were cleaned and inspected by Joe Curto and rebuilt by Mike Gassman. Mike tuned for the run-in, but I will re-tune after the engine is in the car and operating with load. These are tuning instructions located on the Moss Motors website:

SU Carb Tuning

Carburetors Fuel Feed Pipe

I am not using the original “pancake” air cleaner designed for the 3.8 MK2. I just cannot cover up the beautiful twin cam engine with a big ugly air cleaner, so I will be using small air cleaners located at each carb. This does create a few logistics problems. For starters, the original carb fuel feed pipe junction fitting and flexible line to the fuel filter on the RH engine bay valance conflict with the front air cleaner. This image illustrates the problem with fitting individual air cleaner using the original fuel feed pipe.

Original Fuel Feed Pipe to Carbs

I had a new fuel feed pipe made using the original fittings with a relocated junction to avoid the problem.

Original Carb Fuel Feed Pipe & Fittings

Modified Carb Fuel Feed Pipe

The Auxiliary Starting Carburetor – Otter Switch

The auxiliary carburetor is an enrichment device to make starting the car easier. The unit is actuated by a thermostatic switch (Otter Switch). These switches are notorious for failure; however, Mike Eck, best known for his Jaguar clock repair, upgrades the original Otter Switch by by putting a sealed thermostatic module inside it, so it looks the same as it did originally but works reliably. At the time I had his improvement fitted he charged $45 for the modification.

Otter Switch

The electrical connection from the otter switch to the solenoid of the enrichment carb is achieved with a dark green 18 AWG wire in a rubber sleeve.

Otter Switch Electrical Connection to Auxiliary Starting Carb

The thermostatically controlled enrichment caburetter is actuated by a solenoid. The additional electrical connection for the solenoid comes from a four way snap connector on the RH engine bay valance. The connector joins the 18 AWG light green/white from the enrichment carb solenoid with the wire emanating from fuse position #22 to the brake switch. In other words, the starting carb gets its power from the powered side of the brake switch located on the RH engine bay valance.

Trial Installation Update

Carburetor Mounting

I installed the carbs as an assembly. I loosened the couplings between the connecting rod and the throttle spindles, fully closed each butterfly and then secured the couplings. In my case because I am not using the original air cleaner, I had to remove the dowel bolts that connects the throttle stop bracket between the front and rear carbs. I replaced the dowel bolts with 5/16″-24 x 1″ hex head bolts and nuts. After the carbs were mounted to the inlet manifold I removed the two nuts and the 1″ hex head bolt was then used for the installation of the air cleaner.

Before mounting the carb assembly on the inlet manifold I first installed one gasket (c.7221), then an insulator block (C.8486) and then another gasket (C.7221) on the four 5/16″-24 inlet manifold studs for each carburetor.

Gaskets and Insulator Blocks between Carb Bodies and Inlet Manifold

I then mounted the assembly and securely tightened split washers and nuts on each of the eight studs. Before tightening the two nuts/washers on the lower studs of the front carburetor, I reinstalled the bracket assembly for the throttle return spring anchorage. I cleaned and painted the bracket but this is what it looked like prior to “clean-up.”

Bracket Assembly on Front Carburetor

Fuel Delivery

After the carburetor assembly is mounted on the inlet manifold, the starting pipe assembly is connected with two short pieces of neoprene fuel hose requiring four Jubilee Hose Clips. I don’t have a good photo of the staring pipe full assembly, but these are the three components that screw into the underside of the inlet manifold.

Front Manifold Starting Pipe Assembly

Center Manifold Starting Pipe Assembly

Rear Manifold Starting Pipe Assembly

The neoprene hose connections are not simply made and must be done from below the car. These can be seen in the photo below, although they are somewhat difficult to ascertain. The photo was taken from below the car.

Manifold Starting Pipe Assembly Fuel Hose Connections

I have decided to move the fuel filter from the engine bay.

I am sure that the original design is perfectly fine, but I was never fond of Jaguar’s placement of the fuel filter on the RH engine bay valance. The filter has a glass bowl that is functional permitting easy viewing of fuel flow and any sediment caught by the filter, but I am leary of fuel in glass in an engine compartment. With no insulation, the fuel is also subject to “boiling” after the engine has been run and then parked due to residual engine heat.

Eliminating the original AC fuel filter from the engine bay also gives me some much needed room under the bonnet. With my modifications including air conditioning, power steering, and carb mounted air cleaners among other items, space in the engine bay is at a premium.

Jaguar located the petrol pump in the LH side of the boot and I decided to do the same with the fuel filter. I will install a Fram G-2 opaque plastic filter between the fuel tank and the fuel pump.

Fram G-2 Fuel Filter

I cut the long 5/16″ steel fuel line that travels along the RH frame rail from the rear of the car to the front slightly above, but near the oil filter. I installed a ninety degree elbow female compression brass fitting to the end of the fuel line. Holyoke P/N 70-54, 5/16 compression to 1/4 NPT. The elbow is attached to a male 1/4″ NPT to 5/16″ barb fitting. I then ran a 5/16″ ethanol resistant rubber fuel hose from the barbed fitting to the barbed fitting on the carburetor fuel delivery pipe. Used two 11-16mm jubilee hose clamps.

Brass Connection Hardware from Fuel Pipe to Rubber Fuel Hose

Fuel line from tank is connected to the rubber fuel hose that is routed to the Caburetters

A Jubilee Hose Clip is used to tighten the hose on the barbed fitting.

The image below shows the new rubber fuel hose running from the head fuel line under the car to the carburetor fuel feed pipe.

Fuel Hose from Carb Fuel Feed Pipe to Hard Pipe from Tank

Throttle Return Springs

With all of the fuel delivery hose connections made, I then attached the throttle link rod assembly on trunnion – part #81 in the schematic to the bell crank lever assembly from the accelerator controls and tightened the securing screw holding the ball joint together.

Throttle Link Rod Assembly

I then moved onto the throttle return springs. The shorter spring is the return spring from the lever on the front carburetor to the anchor bracket mounted below the front carburetor (photo shown above). The longer spring is the return spring from the linkage to the Bracket on the Oil Cleaner.

Throttle Return Springs

My next step was to loosen the two float chamber overflow pipes at the float bowls so that the pipes could be aligned and routed through the clip near the oil filter.

Air Cleaners

As previously mentioned, I am using carb mounted air cleaners rather than the original contraption that I am confident worked well but completely covered up the beautiful twin cam engine. After experimenting with a number of options, I settled on air cleaners sourced from Advanced Performance Technology (APT) http://www.aptfast.com. These air cleaners use K&N Filters.

Carb and Fuel Connections Schematic

The “intermediate throttle lever from throttle link to stop bracket” – part# 82 in the diagram – on the MK2 carb set up is offset to the rear of center. This requires a comparable offset in the air cleaner mounting to avoid the throttle lever striking the air cleaner casing as it travels its logical path.

I used filters that are 1-3/4″ tall. The rear cleaner is offset upward and is part number: SD24-318 for HD6 SUs. The front cleaner is center mounted and is part number SD4-318. The air cleaner casings are actually highly polished. The blue tint in the image below is a plastic protective coating that easily peels off.

APT K&N Air Filters

A gasket is placed over the mounting studs for the air cleaners and then the back plate of the air cleaner is installed and secured. I used a 5/16″-24 x 3/4″ and a 5/16″-24 x 1″ for each air cleaner. The longer bolt is needed where it must also travel through the throttle stop bracket.

Air Filter Rear Plate Mounted

The K&N oiled filter is then installed followed by the cover plates secured by shake proof washers and acorn nuts on the studs.

K&N Air Filter Element Installed

APT K&N Air Cleaners Temporarily Mounted

Air Cleaner Update – Cold Air Box

Well, after the time devoted to researching the ideal air cleaner solution and the expense of ordering the K&N offset filters, I became convinced that an air box delivering cool air to the carbs is the way to go. I recently saw several approaches to these “boxes” on some of the Jag Forums, and Mike Gassman of Gassman Automotive convinced me that the cold air delivery system would be a good modification to make to assist with expected heat problems under the bonnet. I anticipate that my air conditioning system will add more heat to an already “hot” situation. Mike has a very talented welder/fabricator on his team, Brandon Tyree, who designed, fabricated and installed the “box” – I am going to call it a “pipe.” I don’t know why “they” call these things “cold air” boxes – they do not deliver cold air, but instead, ambient air from outside the engine bay to the carbs. A “pipe” also has all smooth and rounded surfaces which would seem to promote better air flow than a “box.”

This topic deserves a separate post and it may be found at: https://valvechatter.com/?p=9163

New Tires & Fuel Pump

Posted on August 9, 2006 by valv8988

I am a little late recording this, but in September 2010 the Bugeye’s shoes were replaced. While the tread on the Wynstar tires looked just fine, they were over eight years old, so for safety sake it was time to replace them. The same tire was no longer available, so the Bugeye now has some P185/60R13 80 H Sumit HTR 200. These tires are not the same low profile as the Wynstars, but the ride is superior and the grip firmer than before. Details are available on the maintenance page of this site.

The Sprite was neglected a bit over this winter, so when a warm day came round near the end of February, it was time to start her up and give her a good run. Alas, no joy! Either the SU fuel pump was not sucking fuel or there was a clog in the line. After a few diagnostics, it became clear the fuel pump was the culprit. A negative ground electronic SU was ordered from Moss Motors and installed. While messing with the pump, it seemed the ideal time to switch out the old rubber fuel hose for a new hose that is no susceptible to deterioration from ethanol. That done, the Bugeye is now happy and running once again!

Fuel Pump Installed

SU Fuel Pump Part Number

Engine Clean-up and Reinstall

Posted on November 27, 2005 by valv8988

Engine Install

One of the things I wanted to accomplish with the engine clean-up was to have the exhaust header coated to reduce heat in the engine compartment and interior. I used Swain Coatings. The header came back looking great. Time will tell if the coating holds up and is effective in reducing heat.

Swain Coat Header

I also did a general cleaning of the engine including a new paint job while the gearbox was being worked on by Jack Harper. I replaced the oil sump gasket and the rocker cover gasket, too. I tested and reinstalled the gear reduction starter. The air cleaners were cleaned and oiled with K&N products.

Clean Motor Assembly

I developed the following list of items for reinstalling the engine and gearbox into the Bugeye:

Reinstalling a Bugeye Engine and Datsun 5-speed Transmission

Grease the shaft splines on the engine and the yoke before installing the engine.
Set the exhaust header in place so that it will be positioned to install once the engine is tightened into its mounts.
Guide the motor into place with the lift so that the yoke on the driveshaft lines up with the transmission. If this does not work then remove the driveshaft and install after the engine and transmission are in place.
Loosely secure the engine to the front motor mounts. The mounts themselves should be loose then tightened after all bolts/nuts are in place.
Install the long bolts up through the crossmember into the rear transmission mount and tighten.
Tighten the front engine mounts.
Center the transmission in the rear mount, then push it as far to the right as possible, and tighten the transmission pad mounts on the bracket.
Install the bolts in the sides of the transmission rear mounts from inside the car with the self locking nuts inside the tunnel. (Hint: tape the nuts in the wrench to make starting the threads easier.)
Replace the gearshift lever.
Connect the ground strap to the frame of the car.
Replace the rocker cover and connect the breather hose.
Install the intake and exhaust manifolds.
Install heat shield and carbs.
Connect throttle and choke cables.
Connect breather hose.
Connect hot water hose to copper tube and connect to radiator hose. Tighten clamps. It is easier to put the clamp on the hose/copper pipe when the copper pipe clips are loose from the manifold.
Connect the short hot water hose from the water control valve to the heater.
Connect the electrical cable from the gear reduction starter to the starter solenoid.
Connect the oil pressure pipe to the fitting on the engine block by the banjo bolt.
Reconnect the white/black line from the electronic ignition to the distributor.
Connect the high tension line from the distributor to the coil.
Reconnect the plastic terminal (3 wires) to the alternator.
Connect the fuel line from the fuel pump to the carbs.
Reattach the water temperature sensor to the engine head.
Remove the banjo bolt where the oil line exits the rear of the block. Pour motor oil down the hole in the block to prime the oil pump. Reinstall the bolt.
Remove the oil filter and pour it full of motor oil and reinstall.
Fill engine with oil – Castrol GTX 10W-40.
Fill the gearbox with Gear lube – Redline MT90. 2 1/4 pints. Use long clear plastic tube. Try pump.
Connect the stainless steel flex line from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder.
Bleed the clutch slave cylinder. (See Page 9 of Rivergate’s manual)
Install radiator and fill with 50% coolant and 50% distilled water.
Fix the carb drain lines to the mounting clamp at the lower rear of the engine compartment.
Insert the 1 ½” connecter pipe (with sealant) for the exhaust system into the header pipe.
Install the exhaust and muffler assembly.
Tighten clamps on the exhaust connecter pipe.
Reconnect the battery cables.
When ready to start the engine, pull the spark plugs and spin the engine with the starter until the oil pressure goes up to normal on the pressure gauge, and stays.
Check for any oil, coolant and fuel leaks.
Reinstall the spark plugs and start engine.
If engine does not start turn distributor 180 and try again!
Install 4” fresh air heater hose and clamp.
Install the leather shifter cover and surround.

Start It Up And Have Some Fun!

I Know It Fits!

Motor Protection!

Engine Install

Valve Chatter

Tag Archives: Fuel Pump

Wiring to the rear of the car

Fuel Pumps, Fuel and Brake Pipes and License Plate

Assorted Fuel System Modifications

Chapter 79 Week Forty-Nine November, 19 2007

Chapter 15 – Cleaning and Trial Fitting

Chapter 8 – Disassembly

Fuel System

New Tires & Fuel Pump

Engine Clean-up and Reinstall

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