Tag Archives: heater blower

Smiths Heater Refurbishment & Trial Fitting

Posted on by

In a Bugeye engine bay, the Smiths heater box and blower are quite prominent so it is important that in addition to functioning well, they also look good! This Episode Forty-five video of the Bugeye Restoration shows the refurbishment process. The original plan was to use the heater box that was in the car, but in the end we decided to replace the box with a unit manufactured by Ashley Hinton in the UK. 

The matrix was flushed and checked for leaks and the blower motor was tested. The unit is now ready for installation in the car.

Bugeye Restoration Video Episode Forty-five: https://vimeo.com/860319039/8d4bcf8c4c?share=copy

Upon initial fitting of the heater box it was quickly evident that the heater box was sitting too low relative to the blower fan unit. In our case we are using a blower unit that was originally in a big Healey, the heater box as previously stated is a new reproduction made by Ashley Hinton and the previous owner installed a new battery shelf so it is difficult to say where the misalignment may have originated. Perhaps a combination of all three!

At any rate, we had some 1/8″ black ABS plastic sheet laying around the garage so we cut three pieces to size and then glued them together with ABS glue. We then used a 1 5/8″ drill hole saw and a saber saw to cut the air circulation hole in the center of the new shim plate. To this we attached 1/2″ closed-cell rubber adhesive-backed insulation and screwed the shim to the bottom of the heater box. We were then able to bring the components into alignment when mounted on the car.

ABS plastic shim

The dashboard heater switch was installed in the dash and connected to the blower fan. once connected to a 12 volt power source we were able to successfully test the switch and blower motor. 

Finally, we installed a 10-32 nut sert into the RH engine bay valance to locate the large “P” clip for the heater/fresh air trunking. 

Bugeye Restoration Video Fifty-two shows the installation of the heater components in the car: https://vimeo.com/884518618/83d80549a4?ts=0&share=copy

 

 

Chapter 84 Week Fifty-Four December 24, 2007

Posted on by

Today (Monday) is Christmas Eve and there is much to be done, so only a little Healey work will happen on this day, but I had a good week. I did manage to install the rubber buffers on the front shroud sill bonnet opening. Three on the left side and two in the right plus the long strip to protect the carbs from the weather. My long strip is cut into two pieces to account for the carb access panel. The buffers are held in place by copper-colored split rivets and flat washersthat are pushed through the mounting hole and then bent over.

LH Rubber Buffers

RH Rubber Buffers 2

LH Carb Panel Seal

The next task was to fit the front wings to the superstructure. I began with the RH wing, thinking it would be the more difficult of the two. First, I tapped the wing clip nuts onto the wings. Three shorter nuts and bolts are used for the front of the wing, below the headlights. With the help of my wife, who held the wing in place, I installed the rearmost and forward most bolts.

With those two holding the wing in position, I then began to install the other bolts working from the front to the rear. Each one was hand tightened enough to get them started, but with enough room to install the wing beading. The fourth nut/bolt from the front requires Houdini to install. I finally accomplished it after loosening each of the four bolts securing the heater blower and then disconnecting the large fresh air hose from the blower. With the hose loose I was able to access the bolt for the fourth hole.

RH Front Wing 1

RH Side with front wing

To protect the paint while installing the beading, I ran a strip of painter’s masking tape on the shroud and the wing parallel to the beading.

Beading Installation

After carefully spreading the beading folding tabs so that they were evenly distributed across the wing, I pressed it in place. Once again, four hands come in handy!

With my wife applying downward pressure on the beading I tightened each bolt/nut until the beading was locked in place and the top of the wing was tight.

Then I tackled the three fasteners below the headlight. These are much easier to access. Again, I loosely attached each of the three and then inserted the two plastic beading pieces between the panels and tightened down.

Next were the three 1/4” x 3/4” long hex head bolts used to secure the bottom edge of the wing. Finally, the 3/8” sheet metal screws were used to fasten the wing flanges to the hinge pillar plate. The heater blower fresh air hose was reinstalled and the blower’s four mounting bolts tightened. A little red touch-up paint on the lower bolts and pillar screw heads and then it was on to the LH wing. NEXT TIME I WOULD WAIT TO FASTEN THE WING AT THE BOTTOM UNITL THE DOOR IS INSTALLED. THERE IS FLEX IN THE WING AND BY MOVING IT UP OR DOWN SLIGHTLY ONE CAN BETTER MATCH UP THE WING CURVATURE WITH THAT OF THE DOOR!

The LH wing was a little easier to install in my case because of the carb access panelI had cut into the shroud! The difficult nuts/bolts on the LH wing were the rearmost two because the wiper motor restricts access to the locating holes and hardware.

It was a good feeling to have all four of the body’s wings in place.

The next task was the installation of the scuttle seals that I had ordered from Bill Bolton. These are reputed to the best available, and the fit does seem to be quite nice. As I was working on the seals and dash pad I had a visit from grandson #2, Shane. As the image shows, he seemed right at home in the Bloody Beast.

Little Shane’s visit to the Garage

Little Shane’s Visit

Fitting the scuttle seals was not as difficult as I expected. The job was made much easier by following directions: Scuttle Seal Install Rich Chrysler along with those provided by Bill Bolton.

Scuttle seal 1

Scuttle seal rivets 1

scuttle seal screw holes

Scuttle seal rivets 2

I then installed the dash pad, along with the hot air outlet defroster masks, the mirror, tonneau turnbuckles, and the stud for the tonneau cover.

Dash Pad seal 1

Dash Pad seal 2

Once the dash and accompanying hardware was installed I was ready to begin the door installation. I first attached the door check strap assembly to each side. Then I taped all the edges of the wings, sills and doors with painter’s masking tape for protection.

Check Strap Assembly 2

Check Strap Assembly 3

My son John (23 years of age and strong) lifted the doors in place and I ran in the door hinge screws. This job was actually easier and less time intensive than I imagined. Of course, I still need to adjust them for proper fit. I had previously attached all the door interior upholstery, trim and hardware which was much easier than installing it all on the car, but it did make the doors quite heavy.

Next on my list was the installation of the headlight buckets, headlight bulbs, and the chrome lens retaining rim. It wasn’t necessary, but I jacked up the front of the car and temporarily removed the splash shields and the tires to give easier access to the rear of the headlight buckets. I experienced a little difficulty with mounting the trim rim but eventually got it to lock into place. Then I secured the parking/flasher light assemblies to the car with the three small machine screws and nuts, and put the clear lens in place.

Headlight installed 1

Headlight installed with lower wing beading

I thought I would check out the fit of the grill and immediately noticed that the horns were preventing the grill from sliding into place. I did not have the original horns and I am using later replacements (these are deeper). I ended up switching the LH and RH units and placing them inside their mounting bracket and this seemed to give me the space I needed for the grill. At some point I would love to find the proper horns!

Horn installed

Now it was on to the tow hook/driving light bracket from Cape International. I bolted the brackets into place and fit the Lucas 570 SLR- 5” driving lights, attached the wiring and tested the lights to find them working beautifully. I had previously installed the light relay, an indicator light and the wiring so that the lights only come on when the bright beams are used.

Auxiliary Driving light bracket and tow hook

My final work for the week was the installation of the three pieces that comprise the front grille. These were fixed to the car without any issue. The splash panel brackets on either side of the car were fastened to the outside grille mounting brackets.

Grille and Lights installed

Side View with both wings and door

Chapter 56 Restoration Assembly, Week Twenty-Six 6/11/2007

Posted on by

Other than installing the finished motor and the body components I am now down to just a few bits here and there. I am starting to get excited about the finished product after so many months (years actually!) of hard work.

At the factory the two rubber buffers that mount to each of the wheel arch assemblies  were fastened to the assembly before painting the tub, but I installed them after painting to make sure that all surface areas were covered well with paint. Copper split rivets and washers are used to fix each buffer to the wheel arch.

Rubber Buffers

Rubber Buffers 2

The front wing support brackets were added next. I carefully attached them in the same positions they were in for panel fitting.

Front Wing Support Bracket LH

Front Wing Support Bracket RH

The bonnet support plates were added next. These were not fastened tightly so that they might be adjusted easily after the front shroud was installed

LH Bonnet Opening Support Plate

RH Bonnet Opening Support Plate

To avoid losing radiator coolant I decided to add a coolant overflow reservoir tank to the Bloody Beast. I fabricated a bracket to mount it to the superstructure and ran a clear hose parallel to the wiring harness that runs down the RH firewall brace.

Radiator overflow tank

Radiator overflow hose routing

I purchased a stainless steel braided hose for the clutch slave cylinder from Moss Motors. I attached it to the new Lucas slave cylinder and then inserted it into the retainer clip on the frame to screw it into the clutch pipe running up the RH footbox. Doug Reid aka Mr. “Finespanner,” fabricated a short bleeder pipe for me that will mount on the bell housing making it much easier to bleed the clutch in the future.

SS Slave cylinder hose

Slave cylinder

The fresh air hose installation was made easier because of the “pre-fitting” done prior to the tub being painted. The LH hose quickly went into place and the clamps and bracket for the control cable were all tightened.

LH fresh Air Hose

LH Fresh Air Hose

The modern heater (contrasted with the original Smith’s heater radiator box) that I am using from Cape International has it’s own blower fan, and therefore, the original heater blower can be used to circulate fresh air into the passenger side of the cabin. I installed an air intake assembly upside down and close to the front end of the LH hose so the the control cable from the cockpit heater panel could be used to open and close the air inlet valve assembly. It all works like a charm. Perhaps now my victims, I mean passengers, won’t roast while on long sojourns in the summer.

RH Fresh Air Hose to Blower

The bonnet catch lever and its connecting rod were then secured to the frame bracket with stainless split pins. Then the anti-rattle spring hardware was attached to the bonnet remote control rod.

Bonnet Catch Lever & Connecting Rod

Although the original equipping of the Healey did not provide for any type of screen for the front of the RH fresh air hose (other than the one in the heater blower), I purchased some plastic flexible screen and attached it to the hose with a clamp. This will hopefully keep bugs and small children out of the cooling system. Time will tell how this works.

Screen for RH fresh air Hose

Adding fluids and lubrication was next on my list. Many on the email list had suggested using a HELP product #42072to replace the original rubber gasket in the brake reservoir cap to avoid brake fluid “spray” getting to the paint. I purchased and installed the gasket and it does fit perfectly and provides a nice tight seal to the canister.

HELP # 42072 diaphragm gasket

I then proceeded to purge the air from the brake and clutch lines by bleeding the system. It is not that this job is hard, but I hate it! Brake fluid is messy stuff and paint does not like it.

Bruce at Healey Surgeons had added steering lube to the idler when he rebuilt it, but now was time to add the lube for the steering box. I used Penrite Steering Box Lube. It is thick stuff. I set the plastic container in a pot of boiling water for a while to heat it up and therefore “thin” it. The container comes with a very handy applicator tube that fit right in the steering box hole. I filled it up and then tightened the fill nut. No leaks the next morning!

Penrite Steering Box Lube

I found out the hard way that filling the rear axle with gear lube would have been easier prior to installing the rear seats, but with the aid of a clear plastic tube I was able to get 3.6 pints of Valvoline 90 weight gear lube into the rear differential.