Custom Wiring Harness Installation – Part One

Posted on August 13, 2024 by valv8988

We sent our custom made wiring harness to Rhode Island Wiring Services to have the harness covered with a cloth braid using a royal blue double tracer. The cost was $5.25 per foot with an $8.00 machine set-up fee. We were very pleased with the results. Pardon the messy work bench – it gets that way from time to time!

Cloth Braided Wiring Harness

Previous posts cover the creation and circuit testing of the harness:

A new electrical system – https://valvechatter.com/?p=13986

Building and Testing the New Wiring Harness – https://valvechatter.com/?p=14061

JWR Bugeye Wiring Diagrams: https://valvechatter.com/?p=14067

Finally, the time has arrived to install the harness in the car. The first step was to get the end of the harness though the firewall grommet. Not easy with the Deutsch connectors attached, but we got them through.

Harness through the firewall grommet

The next step was to connect the three wires in the harness to the small power supply fuse box. One thirty amp wire feeds the Ignition bank in the fuse box, the other thirty amp wire feeds the accessory bank in the fuse box and the fifteen amp wire feeds the lights bank in the fuse box.

Power supply fuse box

Then it was a matter of connecting the wires to the four banks of fused terminal positions in the Classic Technologies relay/fuse box.

Fuse Box Wiring

We pulled all of the fuses in the two fuse boxes and will add them back one at a time as we test the circuits upon final installation.

fuse installation with ratings

Next, we turned to the group of wires that run to the front of the car along the RH valance. Wiring for the coil, the hydraulic brake switch, the radiator fan, the radiator fan thermostat, the horns and the lights are in this bundle.

Wiring harness on RH Valance

We used stainless steel clips to secure the wires to the valance. A smaller 3/8″ clip will be used to route the capillary tube for the water temperature gauge and sensor.

Stainless steel wiring clips

We made a little bracket to support an 8-pin Deutsch connector at the front of the valance. This connector will mate with an 8-pin bonnet connector to deliver power to the headlights, flashers, running lights and auxiliary driving lights if we decide to mount them.

8 pin Deutsch Connector

We then installed the twin Hella horns and made the wiring connections. This did involve using a four way bullet connector to receive and supply power to both horns. A double spade connector was used to facilitate the wiring connections for the ground wires.

Horns Wiring

Hella horns installed with wiring and custom cover

The next wiring connections to be made were for the wiper motor. Duestch connector “H” is used to connect the wires from the wiper motor to the Wiper Controller mounted behind the dash. The three wires, encased in shrink tubing, come through the firewall. The green wire connects to wiper motor terminal #2 and the green/black wire connects to terminal #1. A black ground wire connects to terminal #3.

Wiper Motor Wiring Connections

The next item to wire was the ignition coil. The yellow/green wire from the harness connects to the (-) terminal of the coil. The white wire from the harness connects to the (+) terminal of the coil.

Ignition Coil Wiring

The heater blower has two black wires from the fan motor. One of those wires is connected to a yellow wire from the harness with a spade connector. The other black wire is ground and is screwed to the chassis.

Heater blower wiring

The hydraulic brake switch is mounted on the RH engine bay valance. A teal green wire and a brown/green wire from the harness connect to the two screw terminals on the switch.

Hydraulic brake switch wiring

The brake pedal brake switch is a custom addition to the Bugeye. Details on the switch and its mounting bracket are highlighted in another post: https://valvechatter.com/?p=14351

Two wires from the harness, a green wire and a dark green/orange wire, come through the grommet in the LH footbox near the dipper switch and connect to the switch at the pedal.

Brake Pedal brake switch wiring

The Dipper switch wiring was completed next. We had a little issue on this because we cut two of the wires a little too short requiring the use of bullet connectors to add length to the wiring to the switch. However, while space was tight, we were able to make all of the necessary connections.

There are three terminals on the dipper switch. A power-in terminal, a low-beam terminal, and a high-beam terminal. One has to look closely to find it but the power-in terminal is marked with an arrow on the switch molding. The blue wire from the harness connects to this terminal via a bullet connector.

The blue/red wire is connected via a bullet connector to a blue/green wire (ran out of blue/red) and then to one of the remaining switch terminals – it doesn’t matter which one.

Three wires connect to the remaining terminal on the switch. The blue/white wire is for high beam operation, the green wire is for the high beam warning light in the speedometer, and the blue/yellow wire is routed to the toggle switch under the dash for the driving lights. These three wires connect together via a four way bullet connector, with one blue/yellow wire then connecting to the terminal on the switch. A bit confusing, but the photo helps.

Dipper switch wiring

The fuel pump wiring connections were then made. The teal/purple wire from the harness was connected to the black wire at the Facet pump with a spade connector, and the white/purple wire from the harness was connected to the SU pump with a spade connector

Dual fuel pumps wiring connections

Bugeye Restoration Video Episode Eighty shows the installation of the front and rear harnesses: https://vimeo.com/998221034/30174c4eea?share=copy

The contents of this episode include the following:

0:00 – Braided wiring harness received

0:30 – Begin wiring harness installation

0:58 – Power distribution fuse box

1:48 – Fuse ratings

1:58 – Wiring to Classic Technologies fuse box

2:33 – Wiring clips on the RH engine bay valance

2:40 – Deutsch connector for wiring the bonnet

3:30 – Wiring connections to the horns

5:08 – Horns wiring cover

5:30 – Hydraulic brake switch wiring connected

5:45 – Ignition coil wiring connections

6:05 – Heater blower wiring connections

6:26 – Alternator wires to be connected later

6:32 – Connector “F” wiring to the RH courtesy lights and brake lights

7:30 – Brake pedal brake switch wiring connections

7:55 – Dipper Switch wiring bracket

8:54 – Brake pedal switch wiring tested

9:02 – Accelerator pedal assembly temporary installation

9:20 – Wiper controller installation

9:30 – RH demister elbow and tubing installation

10:30 – Wiring harness to the rear of the car installed

11:18 – Fuel pumps wiring connections

Chapter 14 – Cleaning and Trial Fitting

Posted on March 15, 2020 by valv8988

August 26, 2003

Wiring

Wiring Harness – Received the new wiring harness from British Wiring Inc. We ordered the main harness, horn wiring that we probably won’t need, light pigtails and the stator tube wiring. Everything looked good. Also ordered a special pliers for pushing the wiring bullet connectors into the rubber joints which will prove to be a real time saver.

After taking the harness through the firewall, the major components were separated to go down the two sides of the car.

Flasher – First connected the three wires to the flasher – green, light green, and green/brown.

Wiper Harness – Then connected the wiper harness with connectors and fed it through the firewall – black, black/green, and green.

Dimmer Switch – The wires for the dimmer switch were then connected and fed through the top of the footbox and connected to the switch – blue/red, light blue, and blue/white.

Fuse Panel – Wiring was then connected from the harness to the fuse box. Three white wires to the lower left terminal; one heavy brown wire to the top left terminal; two brown/green wires to the upper right terminal; and five green wires to the lower right terminals.

Throttle Switch – The white and white/purple wires intended for the throttle switch will not be used so rubber connectors were placed on the ends to avoid contact with metal. The wires were tucked below the fuse box.

Boot Harness Extension – Six wires were then connected from the firewall harness to the harness that goes to the fuel pump and boot for the lights. The harness runs down the footbox insulation panel with two clips. The harness was clipped to the master cylinder box and then taken through the welded clip on the wheel well.

Flasher Relay Box – Wires on the left side will then be connected to the flasher relay box including a black ground wire at the base of the box.

Lights and Horns – The wires were routed to the front of the superstructure for the lights and the horns.

Voltage Regulator Box and Brake Light Switch – The harness was also routed down the right side, by the voltage box and down the right side to the brake light switch.

Wiring 3

Wiring 1

Wiring Fuse Block 2

Wiring 6

Wiring 8

Wiring 9

Wiring 12

September 9, 2003

Heater Vent Doors – Installed the left and right heater outlet vent door assemblies.

Air Vents 1

Air Vents 2

Bump Boxes – Installed painted bump boxes. Secured threaded horn mounting plates.

Bump Box Painted 1

Steering column bracket tapped plate

Parcel Tray and Fascia Brackets – Installed parcel tray support bracket and fascia support brace.

Parcel Tray Brace

Fascia Brace

Steering Column Steady Bracket – Installed steering column steady bracket, but unclear about which windscreen post hole it should mount to – will check it out later.

Steering support Brace

Steering Column Steady Bracket 2

Bonnet Prop Rod and Brake Reservoir Brackets – Installed bonnet prop rod bracket, pivot, and the brake reservoir mounting bracket.

Brake Reservoir Bracket

Bonnet Rod Bracket

Bonnet safety catch and prop rod bracket

Bonnet Latch Bracket and Release Mechanism – Assembled and installed the bonnet latch/release mechanism.

Bonnet Catch painted 4

Bonnet Catch painted 3

Bonnet Catch painted 2

September 13, 2003

Wiring Continued

Battery Cable – Installed the battery cable ordered from British Car Specialists. The cable set was expensive, but of high quality. Installed rubber grommets in boot kick panel wall. Clip 1 was attached to the right bump box (Should install the cable on the box before it is mounted on the body.) Clip 2 was attached to the kick panel above the shock mounting bracket. The cable was then routed inside of the right frame rail.

Battery Cable 2

Battery Cable 1

Battery Cable 3

Battery Cable 4

Clip 3 and clip 4 were located at the back of the cruciform. Clip 5 was located at the front of the cruciform near the gearbox mounting bracket. Clip 6 was located on the frame rail about 6” from the ground cable mounting. Clip 7 was mounted on the right footbox wall with the cable directed to the right terminal of the starter solenoid. The Cable from the starter to the left terminal on the solenoid was then secured. The white/red stripe wire fastened to the small terminal on the solenoid. Three “cert” nuts need to be installed – two for the solenoid and one for the clip on the footbox.

Battery Cable 5

Battery Cable 6

Battery Cable 8

Battery Cable 9

Next, the rear lights harness was installed. Clip 1 was secured at the right upper fuel pump bracket. Clip 2 was secured on the kick panel to the left of the pump. Clip 3 was attached to the left bump box and the wiring was threaded through the boot wall. The green wire will connect to the fuel gauge sending unit. Metal tabs were fabricated from clips and mounted on the floorboard of the boot.

Single bullet connectors were used to join the main harness to the rear light harness and link the white/black wire, and the white/purple wire. The red wires were connected using a double rubber connector. Clips 3 and 4 were mounted to the rear rail. The long separate white/black wire was also routed through and it connected to the single screw terminal on the battery on/off switch. Black ground wires were connected to the screw on each clip.

Boot Wiring 1

Boot Wiring 2

Boot Wiring 3

Boot Wiring 6

Boot Wiring 4

Boot Wiring 5

Chapter 13 – Cleaning and Trial Fitting

Posted on March 15, 2020 by valv8988

March 22, 2003

Rear Seats

The rear seat pans were very rusty and pitted to some degree, but given that they are completely covered by upholstery we decided to reuse them. The bottom exposed side of the seats was painted with a rubberized undercoating paint.

Rear Seats 1

Rear Seats 3

May 16, 2003

Canadian Delivery!

Martin Jansen delivered the healey from his shop in Canada on the back of his pickup truck! Big day!

May 16 Arrival Day from Martin 1

Rough Body 2

Rough Body

Rough Body 3

The frame and superstructure looked great. The fit of the wings will have to be improved upon. Door fit is pretty good, but will also need additional work. New edges were put on the rear shroud and rough repairs to the front shroud lower panel were made as well as around the rear shroud taillight area. Seeing the interior panels without rust is hard to believe, but they sure look good now! One disappointment is that mounting holes for a number of things are not located on new panels installed by Martin. Seat rails, exhaust mountings, insulation panels and etc will need to be aligned and drilled.

Firewall 3

Firewall 2

Boot 1

July 15, 2003

Maple Hill Restorations

After consulting with Jeremy Turner from Maple Hill Restorations we have decided to completely assemble the car while in primer to be ensured that EVERYTHING fits properly. This will prolong the project, and will probably lead to some short term frustration, but should also minimize problems with assembly once body work and painting is complete.

My first step is to determine proper fastener sizes and replace all original hardware with stainless steel, with the exception of higher load locations such as shock absorber and other suspension bolts. Those will be replaced with new grade 8 zinc plated hardware. Then we installed all of the rubber grommets in the firewall, footwell and other locations.

The Scientist at Work

Chased Threads and rubber grommets

Installed pedal box

Steering Bracket and Brace

Boot Grommets – The grommet for the battery cable and other bulkhead grommets were installed in the boot. The anti-theft battery switch and bracket were also installed.

Boot grommets

Battery box and switch

Bump Box

Boot Tire Buffer

Insulation Panels – Some of the mounting holes for the heat insulation panels on the firewall and footwell were also not drilled. We located the proper locations, drilled the holes and mounted the panels without difficulty.

Insulation 1

The Oil Pressure Line – The line was located and installed although new clips will be ordered.

Oil Line

The Dip Switch and Parcel Tray – These components were also located and installed. Note the original water bottle.

Parcel Tray & Bottle

Installed dimmer switch

Radiator Brackets – The brackets were cleaned and painted and were installed on the crossmember, and the painted air intake flange.

Radiator Mount 2

July 23, 2003

Hardware Reassembly

Door Staps – The original door straps (catches) were cleaned, re-zinced and installed on the door pillars.

Door Strap 1

Door Strap 2

Bonnet Hinges – The bonnet hinges were cleaned, primed and new stainless hardware was installed, and then mounted to the car.

Bonnet Hinge 1

Bonnet Hinge 2

March 22, 2003

More Cleaning

Bonnet Latch Hardware – Disassembled and cleaned the bonnet latch assembly and the bonnet opening rod assembly for Jeremy Turner to media blast and paint.

Bonnet Rod Spring

Bonnet Rod Bracket grommet

Bonnet Latch A

Bonnet Latch B

Bonnet Latch C

Also cleaned the bonnet rod clip, the catch bracket, two safety latches, the brake reservoir bracket and two shroud brackets.

Chapter 12 – Disassembly

Posted on March 15, 2020 by valv8988

February 2, 2003

Front Suspension Components.

Removed the steering arm by loosening two 11/16” nuts with tab washer connector flattened. Note that the steering arm angles toward the dustshield – not the motor.

Stub Axle Carrier, King Pin, Caliper, Dust Shield

Stub Axle Carrier, King pin, Dust Shield

Brake Caliper – Removed by first unscrewing the brake pipe union. Remove two nuts securing the brake hose support bracket. Remove bracket. Unscrew two caliper retaining bolts.

Removed two rubber bushings from the upper trunnion.

Swivel Pin – Removed split pin at the swivel pin nut and tap swivel pin out with hammer.

Loosen cotter on the swivel pin and retract. Loosen two large nuts (bushings) on “A” arms and remove. Pull out pin and remove “A” arms.

Grease Cup – Pulled out grease cup from hub – fabricated tool with long manifold nut and 5/16” x 3” bolt and the slide hammer.

Straighten and retract split pin on castle nut through the hole in the splines on the hub. Not easy to do!!

Remove castle nut. Brake rotor and hub then lift off of the dust shield and spindle.

From the swivel axle spindle removed the dust cover spring and upper and lower dust covers. Separated the rotor from the hub. 4 bolts – 2 long ones hold the brake caliper and bracket. 2 short bolts hold the plate to the swivel axle.

Removed rubber “U” seal from around the dust shield opening for the swivel axle.

March 12, 2003

Steering Idler and Steering Box

The steering idler and steering box are next for cleanup. I will have these rebuilt by someone who knows what they are doing. Probably Bruce Phillips at Healey Surgeons.

Steering Idler 2

Steering Idler Clean

Steering idler 3

Steering Box 6

Steering Box 5

Steering Box 7

Distributor

The distributor was also in good shape and easy to clean. We may still switch to an electronic unit, but cleaned up the Lucas just in case.

Distributor 7

Distributor 8

Distributor 9

Distributor Clean

Boot Latch and Lock Assembly

The boot latch and lock assembly was in reasonable shape but the chrome will have to be replaced as it is cracked rather badly.

Boot Lock

Boot Handle & Lock

Master and Slave Cylinders

The clutch master and slave cylinder will both be replaced with new items.

Clutch Slave Cylinder

Clutch Master Cylinder with aluminum spacers

Master Cylinder Brake

Headlamp Dip Switch

The switch didn’t look too good, but it worked fine and would clean up.

Dipper Switch

Dipper switch 4

Brake and Clutch Pedals

Curiously, one of the previous owners of the car added spacers on the brake and clutch pedals to minimize reach. We won’t use the spacers.

Clutch Pedal 1

Clutch Pedal 2

Clutch Pedal 3

Brake Pedal 4

Brake Pedal 5

Windscreen Wiper Motor

The next item to tackle was the windscreen wiper motor. It was disassembled, cleaned, lubricated, and painted. I tested the motor and it seemed to work fine.

Wiper Motor 3

Wiper Motor 4

Wiper Motor 6

Wiper Motor 7

Chapter 10 – Disassembly

Posted on March 15, 2020 by valv8988

August 17, 2002

Brake and Clutch Master Cylinders – Loosened lines from cylinders. The brake line from the master cylinder to the 4 way junction has 3 clips and fasteners to the union facing the master cylinder (left side of the car). The clutch line also has three clips: 1 by the solenoid, and 2 on the firewall (high).

Loosen the 1/2” bolts securing the clutch master cylinder. Pull the cotter pin on the master cylinder shaft to the pedal. Remove the master cylinder. Same procedure for the brake master cylinder. There are aluminum spacers on the top of each master cylinder between the cylinder and the body.

Master Cylinders

Brake Pipe Junction 1

Pedal Box Connections

Pedal Box Bolts

Pedal Box (Pedal Lever Bracket)

Loosen two 1/2” bolts to remove pedal box mechanism. The box is painted black. Unit will then drop out.

Pedal Box 1

Pedal Box 2

Headlamp Dip Switch Wiring – Pulled the wiring through the pedal box with rubber grommet.

Dipper switch wiring

Dip Switch Wiring

Bulkhead Fresh Air Flange – Removed three phillips head screws securing the fresh air hose flange. Removed flange.

Air Tube Mounting

Brake Lines

The Brake Lines – fittings were loosened at the 4 way brake union to left front wheel – 2 clips at front cross bar to the front bottom union facing front of car at the junction. Removed right front brake line from junction to right wheel – top union on junction facing front of the car.

LF Brake Lines

Front Center Brake Lines

Brake Junction

Brake Junction connections

Brake Junction Fitting

Brake Junction 3

Brake 4 Way Union & Pressure Switch – Removed the Union by loosening one 7/16” bolt to frame. Two wires must be disconnected. Green goes to terminal closest to the engine. The green with pink stripe wire goes to the terminal closest to the frame. One clip holds wiring harness extension to the brake junction located just above the junction mounting post.

Brake Pressure Switch Wiring

Master Cylinder Sealing Plate (blanking) – Removed the Plate on the right side of the car. Four Phillips head sheet metal screws. The plate had tar paper on back to seal it. Four clip nuts are used to hold the screws.

Right Sealing Plate

Right Sealing Plate 3

Right Sealing Plate 2

Starter Solenoid.

Disconnected the wiring for the starter solenoid. The terminal closest to the engine is for the high tension line from the battery. The terminal closest to the body is or the cable to the starter and the brown ignition wire. The white wire with the red stripe goes to the terminal on top.

Starter Solenoid Wiring

Starter Solenoid 2

Starter Solenoid connections 2 & Clutch Pipe Clip

Blanking Bolts – Removed 2 blanking bolts in upper right footwell. Remove two blanking bolts in engine compartment to frame.

Right blanking bolts

Right footwell Blanking Bolts

Steering Wheel Blanking Plate – Removed the blanking plate on right side of car. Located behind the asbestos insulation. Four sheet metal screws.

Slave Cylinder

Loosened one nut where hydraulic hose joins frame.

Slave Cylinder connection to Frame Clip

Slave Cylinder Mounting with Clip and shake proof washer

Fuel Line – Loosened the fuel line from the carb feed line and the fuel pump. Three to four clips run along the frame rail from carbs to fuel pump.

Wiring Harness – Carefully pulled the wiring harness from front firewall to the rear of the car. Approximately 10 screws through clips on frame. Also two screws and clips through asbestos insulation securing the harness.

Right wiring clamp

Voltage Box wiring

Wiring Clamps on Insulation 3

Firewall wiring clamp

Overdrive switch – Wiring connections: Left terminal – white/purple stripe. Middle terminal – 2 white/green stripe wires. Right terminal – 2 solid white wires. Bottom terminal – black wire from harness.

Firewall wiring harness

Overdrive relay

Relay wiring

Throttle Switch – Bottom terminal – white/ purple stripe wire. Top terminal – White/green stripe wire. See above.

Fuse Block – After disconnecting the wiring to the block, two #10 machine screws were loosened to release the block from the firewall.

Fuse Block wiring

Fuse Block and relay

Voltage Regulator – Five terminals. Far left form driver’s perspective, labeled #1 with far left #5. 1 – black ground from adjacent screw. 2 – 2 solid yellow wires. 3 – 1 yellow/green stripe wire. 4 – 2 solid brown wires. 5 – 1 large brown/blue stripe wire. Note that there are three black ground wires to the adjacent firewall screw.

Voltage Box wiring

Voltage Box

Voltage Box (2)

Number Identification Plates – from the firewall. Both are secured with small chrome sheet metal screws.

ID Plates 3

ID Plate 1

ID Plate 2

Throttle Linkage – Four 7/16” bolts holding shaft under tunnel. Very hard to get to. Disconnect at pedal linkage. Remove accelerator pedal – two large pozi-drive screws. Remove throttle shaft locator collar from engine compartment wall, two screws and nuts.