Chapter 70 Week Forty September 17, 2007

With a little help from a work colleague, my wife and an engine hoist I was able to get the motor with bell housing into the car without one scratch or knick in the paint! We took our time and patience paid off. I tightened down the engine mounts and then put a short jack stand under the bell housing to support the rear of the engine.

Engine Hoist

Helper One

Helper 2

Motor mount tightened down

I had previously bled the slave cylinder so it was an easy task to mount it to the side of the bell housing, insert the Smitty provided push rod, and try out the mechanism by pushing the clutch pedal. The longer fulcrum pin I had made (with directions from Tracy Drummond) worked perfectly. Special thanks to my engine installation assistants – couldn’t have done the job without them.

I did take a minute to install the engine identification number plate on the engine block. I had a new one made by Clarke Spares & Restorations and it looks very authentic.

Engine Number Plate

I am going out of the country for two weeks so things will have to sit a while until I return and get back to work. The next step will be to pull the engine back out, attach the gearbox to the bell housing, fasten the assembly to the engine and put it all back in the car. I suppose I could have skipped the clutch test, but what are a few more hours in a six year restoration!

Chapter 12 – Disassembly

February 2, 2003

Front Suspension Components. 

Removed the steering arm by loosening two 11/16” nuts with tab washer connector flattened. Note that the steering arm angles toward the dustshield – not the motor.

Stub Axle Carrier, King Pin, Caliper, Dust Shield

Stub Axle Carrier, King pin, Dust Shield

Brake Caliper – Removed by first unscrewing the brake pipe union. Remove two nuts securing the brake hose support bracket. Remove bracket. Unscrew two caliper retaining bolts.

Removed two rubber bushings from the upper trunnion.

Swivel Pin – Removed split pin at the swivel pin nut and tap swivel pin out with hammer.

Loosen cotter on the swivel pin and retract. Loosen two large nuts (bushings) on “A” arms and remove. Pull out pin and remove “A” arms.

Grease Cup – Pulled out grease cup from hub – fabricated tool with long manifold nut and 5/16” x 3” bolt and the slide hammer.

Straighten and retract split pin on castle nut through the hole in the splines on the hub. Not easy to do!!

Remove castle nut. Brake rotor and hub then lift off of the dust shield and spindle.

From the swivel axle spindle removed the dust cover spring and upper and lower dust covers. Separated the rotor from the hub. 4 bolts  – 2 long ones hold the brake caliper and bracket. 2 short bolts hold the plate to the swivel axle.

Removed rubber “U” seal from around the dust shield opening for the swivel axle.

March 12, 2003

Steering Idler and Steering Box

The steering idler and steering box are next for cleanup. I will have these  rebuilt by someone who knows what they are doing. Probably Bruce Phillips at Healey Surgeons.

Steering Idler 2

Steering Idler Clean

Steering idler 3

Steering Box 6

Steering Box 5

Steering Box 7

Distributor

The distributor was also in good shape and easy to clean. We may still switch to an electronic unit, but cleaned up the Lucas just in case.

Distributor 7

Distributor 8

Distributor 9

Distributor Clean

Boot Latch and Lock Assembly

The boot latch and lock assembly was in reasonable shape but the chrome will have to be replaced as it is cracked rather badly.

Boot Lock

Boot Handle & Lock

Master and Slave Cylinders

The clutch master and slave cylinder will both be replaced with new items.

Clutch Slave Cylinder

Clutch Master Cylinder with aluminum spacers

Master Cylinder Brake

Headlamp Dip Switch

 The switch didn’t look too good, but it worked fine and would clean up.

Dipper Switch

Dipper switch 4

Brake and Clutch Pedals 

Curiously, one of the previous owners of the car added spacers on the brake and clutch pedals to minimize reach. We won’t use the spacers.

Clutch Pedal 1

Clutch Pedal 2

Clutch Pedal 3

Brake Pedal 4

Brake Pedal 5

Windscreen Wiper Motor

The next item to tackle was the windscreen wiper motor. It was disassembled, cleaned, lubricated, and painted. I tested the motor and it seemed to work fine.

Wiper Motor 3

Wiper Motor 4

Wiper Motor 6

Wiper Motor 7

 

Chapter 5 – Disassembly

June 29, 2002

Final Interior Dismantling

Gearbox tunnel and extension cover. Both were rusted badly and were discarded. I learned later as I was fitting new parts that I should not have violated the restorer’s rule: Never throw anything away until the project is complete!

Gearbox tunnel and extension cover

Fresh Air cover plate and screen on left (driver’s) side. Three self threading screws.

Parcel tray on passenger side. Four self tapping screws on the firewall. Three self tapping screws on the right side wall. One screw and nut into left side to hanging support bar. Then removed the parcel support bar with one screw and nut at top.

Parcel Tray Support brace.

Steering Wheel Shaft Blanking Plate on the right side. Note larger “painted washers” and self tapping screws. Felt gasket found on reverse side of the plate.

Steering Wheel Blanking Plate

Steering Wheel Shaft Blanking Plate Felt Gasket

Two Blanking Screws into captive nuts in firewall on passenger side that just fill holes similar to the driver’s side. These were not painted.

Large Wiring Harness Rubber Grommet in center of firewall. Then removed firewall tarpaper in center of firewall. Note the rubber insulation around the heater box hole and along the seam that would otherwise leak air.

Heat Insulation (tar paper) on firewall

Firewall Grommet

Heater Channel Opening

Center Panel Firewall “Tarpaper.” After removing the firewall “tarpaper” that is in three pieces I numbered the holes:

#1 – Bonnet release rod grommet

#2 – Blank Cover grommet

#3 – Grommet

#4 – Brake Line clip

#5 – Grommet

#6 – Grommet

#7 – Nut

#8 – Nut

#9 – Brake Line Clip

#10 – 1 Nut, 2 grommets Wiper motor

#11 – 2 Nuts

#12 – Nut

#13 – Nut

#14 – Nut

#15 – Nut

#16 – Main wiring harness to dash

#17 – Blank Cover Grommet

#18 – Nut

#19 – Nut

#20 – Nut

#21 – Grommet 

Left Panel Firewall “tarpaper”:

#22 – H2O temp. line

#23 – Oil line

#24 – Nut

Small Blanking Rubber Grommets under the heater opening in firewall. 

Blanking Rubber Grommets

Right Bonnet Hinge cotter pin and 4 washers. The thin washers go closest to the hinge. The nuts go to the inside of the bonnet.

Bonnet Hinge Fixing

Bonnet Hinge

Speedometer Cable at “L” junction to the gearbox.

Speedometer Cable to Gearbox

Clutch Pedal from pedal bar – two nuts. The nuts go to the right side. Removed the Brake pedal from pedal bar – two nuts with nuts to the right side. I noticed at this point that some primatively cut spacers had been added to the pedals for a short-legged driver!

Clutch Pedal

Clutch Pedal Spacer

Pedal Spacers

Floor Dip Switch with two bolts to the fixed nuts in floor. 3 wires: red/blue, blue/white, all blue.

Dip Switch Wiring and Bracket

Dip Switch

Heater Vents on both driver and passenger side below dash. Four self tapping screws in each

Heater Fresh Air Vent Door

July 2, 2002

Engine

Fan and fan belt – Loosened 4 bolts and washers and removed the fan and fan belt.

Fan and Fan Belt

Wiring to the coil –  CB Terminal – White with black stripe from/to the distributor body and white with black stripe from harness that goes to the generator. SW Terminal – Large solid white wire from harness to generator.

Coil Wiring

Generator – Removed 2 bolts and nuts and adjusting bracket with self-locking nut. F Terminal – yellow/green stripe wire from harness. D Terminal – Large solid yellow wire connected to large spade.

Dynamo – Generator

Generator Adjustable Mounting Bracket

Generator Wiring

Distributor –  Removed two 7/16” bolts – note position of distributor and vacuum advance. Numbered each wire to the correct cylinder. Disconnect vacuum line and oil feed line to the tachometer drive.

Distributor Wiring

Distributor

Distributor Cap

Distributor Mounting Clamp

Oil Filter –  Removed two large bolts to the engine block.

Oil Filter Mount

Oil Filter

Starter and Solenoid  Disconnected solenoid to starter lead cable. Loosen two 9/16” bolts accessed through the interior bulkhead and under car.

Starter

Starter Solenoid

Starter Solenoid Wiring

Starter Cover

Engine mounts – Removed 4 bolts from right front to frame. Then removed left side.

Engine to frame Mount

Ground strap –  Disconnected the strap from the frame.

Oil pressure line –  Disconnected the line at top union near intake manifold.

Oil Pressure Line Disconnect

Breather pipe –  Disconnected the pipe at the “T” junction on the rocker cover.

Breather Pipe Disconnect