Chapter 67 Week Thirty-Seven August 27, 2007

I cleaned up the Toyota W57 5 speed gearbox that I will be using with my Smitty conversion kit and painted it. Attaching the Smitty bellhousing makes it easy to stand the gearbox on end to clean and paint.

Toyota gearbox 2

Toyota gearbox 4

I used some 3M black rope caulk to seal the edges of the windscreen frame and then installed the painted windscreen posts to the frame with the 8 chrome #10 screws. The toggle clamp retaining studs were then also attached.

windscreen mounting

Assembled windscreen

I returned to the boot lid and installed the boot lock with four flat head phillips, 1/4” x 3/4” screws. The lock was adjusted at this point as far down as allowed. Next was the boot rubber seal that is glued to the lid. The seal came from British Car Specialists and seems to be pretty close to original. I glued it with 3m black weatherstripping adhesive. I applied the adhesive to the lid and the gasket in approximately 6-8” sections, waited for it to get tacky, pressed together and then moved to the next section. The seal ends were glued together just below the lock.

Boot Seal

Boot Lock and Seal

There are six #10 flat head machine screws that fasten the rear shroud to the superstructure. I installed the six through the back of the boot opening in the shroud.

Chapter 21 – Cleaning and Trial Fitting

November 28, 2004

Boot Latch/Lock Assembly 

Boot Latch/Lock Assembly Installation – Installed the boot lock and handle assembly along with a new rubber gasket that looks like it will need to be slightly trimmed before final installation. The striker plate mounted to the frame assembly with three bolts needed to be loosened and shifted upward as far as it would move. The lock mounted in the boot lid needed to be shifted downward before tightening.

Boot lock handle 1

Boot lock handle 2

Spare Tire Leather Retaining Strap  This was hard to find and I finally ordered it from Cape International.

spare tire leather strap 1

Spare tire leather strap 2

Gearbox cover extension panel – Jeremy Turner modified the extension panel for me to fit the Toyota tranny. As usual he did a wonderful job. I tried it out and it appeared to fit well. I called Duncan at Heritage Upholstery and Trim and ordered the light beige Wilton wool carpet with their domestic pad for the car. I sent them the extension panel to cover with carpet since it would be a custom fit. I also asked him to provide the carpet for the sideshift gearbox cover, but with no hole for the shifter. I will cut it to fit after trying it in the car. He will include the “parchment” vinyl for trimming the gearbox cover and around the handbrake lever for the propshaft tunnel. As usual with the british car vendor fraternity Heritage was very helpful to make sure I got what I needed.

Gearbox cover extension 2

Soft Top Frame – I also picked up the reconditioned and painted soft top frame from Jeremy. He custom matched the paint color and again did a beautiful job.

Soft top frame 2

Soft top frame 1

Soft top frame 3

Hardtop “J” Hooks – I disassembled the front J hooks for the hardtop and will send the hooks by themselves to the chromer. Both J hooks have about 7/16” of the threads exposed after the tightening nuts.The clamps are in good condition and I will just polish them. 

I ordered new J hooks for the rear side clamps for the hardtop from Cape International as well as new mounting brackets. I have not decided yet if I will use the new ones or the originals.

Hardtop front clasps 1

Hardtop front clasps 2

Hardtop J hooks 1

Wooden soft top front bow –  Secures the bow to the aluminum front rail with approximately 15 1/2” #8 counter sunk wood screws. 

Hardtop Hardware – I cleaned and painted the hardtop vertical support braces as well as the front corner brackets with Eastwood wire wheel silver and clear coat paint. They turned out very nice. I also cleaned and painted the mounting clips for the cockpit aluminum molding.

Shroud trim nuts 1

Hardtop front brackets

Hardtop braces 2

Chapter 12 – Disassembly

February 2, 2003

Front Suspension Components. 

Removed the steering arm by loosening two 11/16” nuts with tab washer connector flattened. Note that the steering arm angles toward the dustshield – not the motor.

Stub Axle Carrier, King Pin, Caliper, Dust Shield

Stub Axle Carrier, King pin, Dust Shield

Brake Caliper – Removed by first unscrewing the brake pipe union. Remove two nuts securing the brake hose support bracket. Remove bracket. Unscrew two caliper retaining bolts.

Removed two rubber bushings from the upper trunnion.

Swivel Pin – Removed split pin at the swivel pin nut and tap swivel pin out with hammer.

Loosen cotter on the swivel pin and retract. Loosen two large nuts (bushings) on “A” arms and remove. Pull out pin and remove “A” arms.

Grease Cup – Pulled out grease cup from hub – fabricated tool with long manifold nut and 5/16” x 3” bolt and the slide hammer.

Straighten and retract split pin on castle nut through the hole in the splines on the hub. Not easy to do!!

Remove castle nut. Brake rotor and hub then lift off of the dust shield and spindle.

From the swivel axle spindle removed the dust cover spring and upper and lower dust covers. Separated the rotor from the hub. 4 bolts  – 2 long ones hold the brake caliper and bracket. 2 short bolts hold the plate to the swivel axle.

Removed rubber “U” seal from around the dust shield opening for the swivel axle.

March 12, 2003

Steering Idler and Steering Box

The steering idler and steering box are next for cleanup. I will have these  rebuilt by someone who knows what they are doing. Probably Bruce Phillips at Healey Surgeons.

Steering Idler 2

Steering Idler Clean

Steering idler 3

Steering Box 6

Steering Box 5

Steering Box 7


The distributor was also in good shape and easy to clean. We may still switch to an electronic unit, but cleaned up the Lucas just in case.

Distributor 7

Distributor 8

Distributor 9

Distributor Clean

Boot Latch and Lock Assembly

The boot latch and lock assembly was in reasonable shape but the chrome will have to be replaced as it is cracked rather badly.

Boot Lock

Boot Handle & Lock

Master and Slave Cylinders

The clutch master and slave cylinder will both be replaced with new items.

Clutch Slave Cylinder

Clutch Master Cylinder with aluminum spacers

Master Cylinder Brake

Headlamp Dip Switch

 The switch didn’t look too good, but it worked fine and would clean up.

Dipper Switch

Dipper switch 4

Brake and Clutch Pedals 

Curiously, one of the previous owners of the car added spacers on the brake and clutch pedals to minimize reach. We won’t use the spacers.

Clutch Pedal 1

Clutch Pedal 2

Clutch Pedal 3

Brake Pedal 4

Brake Pedal 5

Windscreen Wiper Motor

The next item to tackle was the windscreen wiper motor. It was disassembled, cleaned, lubricated, and painted. I tested the motor and it seemed to work fine.

Wiper Motor 3

Wiper Motor 4

Wiper Motor 6

Wiper Motor 7


Chapter 7 – Disassembly

Front Shroud

Removed five cross head drive screws at the rear of the bonnet. Three screws with nuts must be removed at the front of the shroud at the bonnet opening. Two cross head screws and nuts also attach the shroud to upright posts. A third bolt and nut holds the prop rod bracket. Five pop rivets were drilled out along the scuttle. Two additional rivets must be drilled out along each side and where the rubber seal attaches to the scuttle. Two bolts securing the shroud to each frame extension in the front must be loosened from their nuts. The shroud can then be released from the rear and pulled forward.

Prop Rod Bracket Removed

Rivet Removal

Front Shroud to Frame Mount

Shroud Removed 1

Shroud Removed 2

Rear Body Panel (shroud)

The rear body panel is released by first drilling out 19 rivets along the lower lip. Thirteen rivets must be drilled out that hold the body panel to the luggage compartment frame. Two or three rivets must be drilled out on the side of the rear body panel where the wing fastens to it. Four cross head screws and nuts must be removed from the top lip of the boot opening. The rear body panel can then be removed. Care must be taken to not bend the small front lip on the aluminum panel at the front points.

Rear Shroud 1

Rear Shroud 2


Removed three posidrive screws holding the interior door handle. Removed four posidrive screws at rear of door by handle. Removed opening mechanism. Loosen phillips head screw in door handle accessible when the door handle is pulled. 5/16” nut on the door handle screw. Loosen 5/16” nut on the screw on the back of the door handle – not easy to get to! Door handle can then be extracted from the door.

Interior Door Handle

Exterior Door Handle Fastener

Door Latch

Door Fasteners

Removed side curtain bezel and retaining nut and chrome washer. Removed mid-door wood strip. One pozidrive screw on top center and two screws to the left and right on the bottom side. Removed the door strap (catch). 

Door Catch Mechanism

Interior Door Trim Panel Wood

Door Opener Mechanism Orientation

Remove door hinges. Four bolts into a securing plate for each hinge. Drilled small indentation into the top bracket to recognize it. On reassembly of doors mount outside door handle first. Then install mechanism so that the action arm is in the proper place.

Door Catch at Door

Door Hinges

Aluminum Door Hinge

Boot Lid 

Removed two screws and cup washers securing the handle/lock. Remove four bolts/nuts holding the lock/catch mechanism. Remove one screw holding the locking mechanism post. Lock surface was painted as were the screw tops so it was installed when the car was painted. The chrome lock and handle were installed after the car was painted because the locking post screw was not painted.

Exterior Boot Lid

Interior Boot Lid

Boot Lock Handle

Boot Lock

Removed the large cotter pin holding the rubber boot lid support rod. The rubber could then be removed as well. The head of he pin was located on the rod locator bracket side. A small cotter pin was removed from the support rod at the home bracket. The rubber grommet was then removed and the rod was detached.

Removed rubber gasket sealing boot lid.

Boot Rubber Seal

Boot Prop Rod Clasp

Heater Blower Assembly

Removed four nuts on posts through rubber grommets. Black ground wire connects to the angle pillar. Power is through a green wire with a brown stripe that plugs into a rubber junction. 

Removed the two heater blower mounting brackets. Two bolts each through wheel well arch. Large washers used on the tire side of the arch.

Smith’s Heater Blower

Blower Mounting Location on Frame Upright

Blower Mounting Rubber Grommets

Blower Motor Wiring Connections

July 28, 2002

Under Bonnet Components

Horns – Located on the left and right of center under the front shroud. Each horn is secured with two bolts fastened into small steel threaded plates. I don’t believe my horns or brackets to be correct as one was mounted on the vertical shroud support like later cars.

Horn on Shroud Upright

Horn Wiring Connections

Proper Horn Location Under Front of Shroud

Horn Mounting Bracket