Tag Archives: Door

Chapter 84 Week Fifty-Four December 24, 2007

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Today (Monday) is Christmas Eve and there is much to be done, so only a little Healey work will happen on this day, but I had a good week. I did manage to install the rubber buffers on the front shroud sill bonnet opening. Three on the left side and two in the right plus the long strip to protect the carbs from the weather. My long strip is cut into two pieces to account for the carb access panel. The buffers are held in place by copper-colored split rivets and flat washersthat are pushed through the mounting hole and then bent over.

LH Rubber Buffers

RH Rubber Buffers 2

LH Carb Panel Seal

The next task was to fit the front wings to the superstructure. I began with the RH wing, thinking it would be the more difficult of the two. First, I tapped the wing clip nuts onto the wings. Three shorter nuts and bolts are used for the front of the wing, below the headlights. With the help of my wife, who held the wing in place, I installed the rearmost and forward most bolts.

With those two holding the wing in position, I then began to install the other bolts working from the front to the rear. Each one was hand tightened enough to get them started, but with enough room to install the wing beading. The fourth nut/bolt from the front requires Houdini to install. I finally accomplished it after loosening each of the four bolts securing the heater blower and then disconnecting the large fresh air hose from the blower. With the hose loose I was able to access the bolt for the fourth hole.

RH Front Wing 1

RH Side with front wing

To protect the paint while installing the beading, I ran a strip of painter’s masking tape on the shroud and the wing parallel to the beading.

Beading Installation

After carefully spreading the beading folding tabs so that they were evenly distributed across the wing, I pressed it in place. Once again, four hands come in handy!

With my wife applying downward pressure on the beading I tightened each bolt/nut until the beading was locked in place and the top of the wing was tight.

Then I tackled the three fasteners below the headlight. These are much easier to access. Again, I loosely attached each of the three and then inserted the two plastic beading pieces between the panels and tightened down.

Next were the three 1/4” x 3/4” long hex head bolts used to secure the bottom edge of the wing. Finally, the 3/8” sheet metal screws were used to fasten the wing flanges to the hinge pillar plate. The heater blower fresh air hose was reinstalled and the blower’s four mounting bolts tightened. A little red touch-up paint on the lower bolts and pillar screw heads and then it was on to the LH wing. NEXT TIME I WOULD WAIT TO FASTEN THE WING AT THE BOTTOM UNITL THE DOOR IS INSTALLED. THERE IS FLEX IN THE WING AND BY MOVING IT UP OR DOWN SLIGHTLY ONE CAN BETTER MATCH UP THE WING CURVATURE WITH THAT OF THE DOOR!

The LH wing was a little easier to install in my case because of the carb access panelI had cut into the shroud! The difficult nuts/bolts on the LH wing were the rearmost two because the wiper motor restricts access to the locating holes and hardware.

It was a good feeling to have all four of the body’s wings in place.

The next task was the installation of the scuttle seals that I had ordered from Bill Bolton. These are reputed to the best available, and the fit does seem to be quite nice. As I was working on the seals and dash pad I had a visit from grandson #2, Shane. As the image shows, he seemed right at home in the Bloody Beast.

Little Shane’s visit to the Garage

Little Shane’s Visit

Fitting the scuttle seals was not as difficult as I expected. The job was made much easier by following directions: Scuttle Seal Install Rich Chrysler along with those provided by Bill Bolton.

Scuttle seal 1

Scuttle seal rivets 1

scuttle seal screw holes

Scuttle seal rivets 2

I then installed the dash pad, along with the hot air outlet defroster masks, the mirror, tonneau turnbuckles, and the stud for the tonneau cover.

Dash Pad seal 1

Dash Pad seal 2

Once the dash and accompanying hardware was installed I was ready to begin the door installation. I first attached the door check strap assembly to each side. Then I taped all the edges of the wings, sills and doors with painter’s masking tape for protection.

Check Strap Assembly 2

Check Strap Assembly 3

My son John (23 years of age and strong) lifted the doors in place and I ran in the door hinge screws. This job was actually easier and less time intensive than I imagined. Of course, I still need to adjust them for proper fit. I had previously attached all the door interior upholstery, trim and hardware which was much easier than installing it all on the car, but it did make the doors quite heavy.

Next on my list was the installation of the headlight buckets, headlight bulbs, and the chrome lens retaining rim. It wasn’t necessary, but I jacked up the front of the car and temporarily removed the splash shields and the tires to give easier access to the rear of the headlight buckets. I experienced a little difficulty with mounting the trim rim but eventually got it to lock into place. Then I secured the parking/flasher light assemblies to the car with the three small machine screws and nuts, and put the clear lens in place.

Headlight installed 1

Headlight installed with lower wing beading

I thought I would check out the fit of the grill and immediately noticed that the horns were preventing the grill from sliding into place. I did not have the original horns and I am using later replacements (these are deeper). I ended up switching the LH and RH units and placing them inside their mounting bracket and this seemed to give me the space I needed for the grill. At some point I would love to find the proper horns!

Horn installed

Now it was on to the tow hook/driving light bracket from Cape International. I bolted the brackets into place and fit the Lucas 570 SLR- 5” driving lights, attached the wiring and tested the lights to find them working beautifully. I had previously installed the light relay, an indicator light and the wiring so that the lights only come on when the bright beams are used.

Auxiliary Driving light bracket and tow hook

My final work for the week was the installation of the three pieces that comprise the front grille. These were fixed to the car without any issue. The splash panel brackets on either side of the car were fastened to the outside grille mounting brackets.

Grille and Lights installed

Side View with both wings and door

Chapter 26 – Cleaning and Trial Fitting

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September 12, 2005

Jeremy Turner Begins His Work 

 We took the car to Jeremy in April, but he got stacked up during the summer months with the work of previous customers who wanted a few things done to ready their cars for shows of various types. Unfortunately, that meant pushing the BT7 off to the Fall.

To Maple Hill Restorations 1

Maple Hill Restoration Arrival 1

This week Jeremy got to work. First he media blasted and painted the seat backs and frames so that they could be sent to Heritage Upholstery for finish upholstery work. After I get Rick Kiser to build a new rear seat squab I will be ready to begin the waiting process for the interior work. I expect at least 2-3 months for that job.

Jeremy began by fitting the doors and wings. Not as easy as it might have been since I am using new aluminum wings that don’t fit quite as nice as the originals, but the originals were consumed by rust. The bonnet had two holes punched in it for the installation of hood locks and we agreed that the holes needed to be filled. He cut the reinforcing frame off of the back of the bonnet to blast any rust from the skin, welded the holes closed and primed.

Latch brace removed_4

Underside of hood rust_7

Outside of latch brace repaired and cleaned_6

He also bent back the skin on the bottom of the doors to again get all the rust blasted out and primed. This will alleviate problems in the future. It is all a slow process, but it is what must be done to end up with the quality job I want!

Rust exposed on bottom door edge_4

Door edge lip pulled out to expose rust_3

Door edge glassbeaded to remove rust_2

Door edge epoxy primed_1

I received the windscreen frame from Custom Chrome Plating in PA. It was a beautiful chrome replating job. It should have been for $500.00 for four frame pieces! I took it and glass and hardware to Village Auto Center in Harrisonburg for assembly. I am nervous about their care, but I expect everything will come back fine.

September 20, 2005

The windshield came back and was nicely assembled except the corners don’t meet as tightly as they need to to prevent leakage. I will work on that later before final assembly. I put the pillars on the frame and will take it to Jeremy for fitting to the body.

Jeremy sent some new images of his latest work that focused on cleaning up the bonnet, fixing a dent and filling the lock holes.

Rear hood brace removed_4

Hood pin holes being welded_6

Screw holes welded up_2

Right hand hole welded up_1

Left hand hole shut up_3

Rust cleaned from underside of hood and dents removed._3

Body work done on underside of hood in areas that would be hard to get to when the braces are welded into place

Rear hood brace removed_4

Trunk brace removed_6

Trunk braces cleaned_8

Underside trunk lid cleaned

December 10, 2005

I have been disappointed that after a good start in September, Jeremy began working on other projects and didn’t make much progress with the Healey. He got back to work after Thanksgiving and forwarded the following photos of work done on the boot lid. It was badly deformed, cracked on the top side edges and didn’t fit the shroud particulalry well. I was pleased to see his skill with cutting and welding. Things are looking up!

adjusting LH trunk gap_4

adjusting RH trunk gap_5

new trunk edge to adjust gap

trunk edge removed

epoxy primed latch brace

underside epoxy primed

aligning the door and quarter gap

February 19, 2006

Rear lights on Healeys leave something to be desired. I came upon a web site that offered a good idea for adding some rear illumination without any obvious physical modifications. It involved converting the rear reflectors to working lights using a pair of 10 watt,12 volt MR11 halogen bulbs that I found at a local lighting store. I also ordered two connecting terminals on-line since the connectors are very small and somewhat delicate pins.

As per the directions on the Healey Club of Ontario web site, I removed the rear reflectors from their pods. I dicovered that this works with the original reflectors but not with those currently available! The reproductions are not as deep and do not have the foil reflector. The easiest way is to carefully insert a small screwdriver between the chrome bezel and the rubber ring. Pull the chrome bezel off, remove the red reflector, and the rubber body will easily pull out of the hole.

I removed the silver foil from the reflector and drilled a 1″ hole in the center of the rubber grommet. I then trimmed the hole to create an
inward taper into the reflector body to match the cone of the new bulb. Then I secured the red reflector to the grommet, sat the halogen bulb inside and pressed the assembly together. This is not real easy to do. I added a little dishwashing soap to the rubber to make it simpler to press things together. After assembly, I used a bead of silicone to seal the new bulb to the rubber grommet.

After installation on the car, run wires from the two brake light terminals in the trunk to each reflector pod and from the wire ground screws on each side to the same pod. The bullet connectors for the brake lights are in the boot on the driver side at the rear. I used bullet connectors and changed the single bullet holders to double so I did not have to spice into the wires. Driver side is White with Purple trace and Passenger side is White with brown trace. Since these will
light both with brake and turn signals this is important.

Rear modified reflectors 2

Rear modified reflectors 3

Rear modified reflectors 4

Rear modified reflectors 5

Halogen bulb

 

Chapter 24 – Cleaning and Trial Fitting

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February 12, 2005

Fitting Shrouds and Wings 

Rear Shroud –After removing all small components from the car I secured the shrouds and wings to the car to prepare it to go to Jeremy Turner for panel fitting and painting. To get the shroud and wings lined up properly, the rear shroud first needs to be riveted to the frame. There are a number of sheet metal screw holes in the superstructure and the shroud that Martin used to position the shroud, they are not needed for final installation.

In addition to the rivets, there are six #10 –32 x 1/2” flat head screws and nuts inside the top rear lip of the boot lid channel. Four of the screws attach through the two steel metal clips that provide support for the boot lid hinges.

rear fender fasteners

Rear wing securing plate 1

Wing right rear 1

Wing right rear 3

Wing right rear 4

Wing right rear 2

Front Shroud – Installed 3 flat head #10 x 1/2” machine screws in lip at front of the bonnet channel. Must catch the bottom frame rails on the inside first, then angle the back of the shroud up in the air – not easy to do!

Installed 5 flat head #6 x 3/8” sheet metal screws in lip at back of bonnet channel.

Installed two flat head #10 x 1/2” machine screws on each under bonnet vertical bracket. Couldn’t fasten properly on the left side because of the misformed panel at the left front corner of the superstructure.

Front Wings – Started with the fastener closest to the headlight. Then fastened the rearmost fastener. The long screws are used on the top of the wings. The clips with the shorter screws are used at the front of the wing by the turn signal lights.

Wing Right Front flange1

Wing Right Front flange 2

Car with wings 1

Doors – Pulled the door up and out and then tighten the hinge screws. May need to do some shimming to align correctly.

June 19, 2005 

Side Curtains – I determined that It was better to purchase new side curtains rather than restoring my old ones. However, while the new frames looked quite good, I thought the old rear brackets were better formed than the new brackets. To dress them up and avoid rust in the future, I decided to chrome plate the old brackets.

Chrome Plating 

I sent a number of parts to Custom Chrome Plating in Pennsylvania for plating. Some were for replating and others were items that I just decided to chrome. I am a little concerned about getting too much plating in the windscreen frame channels but it will hopefully turn out alright.

1 Breather Pipe

1 Bonnet Grille

1 Bonnet Grill Surround

1 Interior Dash Grab Handle

1 Interior Dash Grab Handle Escutcheon

2 Boot Hinges (2 pieces each)

2 Rear Seat Squab Retaining Channel Assemblies (2 pieces each)

1 Handbrake Handle

1 Handbrake Pawl

1 Handbrake Ratchet Plate

1 Thermostat Cover

2 Rear Seat Back Hinge Hardware (2 pieces each)

1 Windscreen Frame (4 pieces)

1 Front Grille

1 Boot Spare Tire Strap Staple

2 Side Curtain Brackets (2 pieces each)

Parts to chrome 2

Parts to chrome 10

Rear Seat Squab 

When I owned the car as a twenty year old I decided that rear speakers in the squab were more important than originality! I have decided to have the squab rebuilt by a local carpenter (He made the pieces and I put it together) before sending it to Heritage Upholstery and Trim for upholstery.

Rear Seat Squab assembly

Rear Seat Squab assembly

Rear Seat Squab assembly

Rear Seat Squab assembly

Rear License Plate Bracket and Lamp 

Since I am using Rally car bumpers rather than the original full bumper I need to develop a new approach to mounting the plate and the lamp. I had fabricated something myself, but then decided to modify the BJ8 bracket and mount it directly to the car. I saw another approach on Aussie Peter Jackson’s BN7 at VIR and I may still do something like his.

license & Lamp bracket 1

license & Lamp bracket 2

license & Lamp bracket 5

Peter Jackson’s car:

Peter Jackson’s Plate 

Peter Jackson’s Plate

Battery Master Switch 

So many have complained about problems with the original master switch that I decided to replace it with a modern equivalent from Hella. I mounted it in the original switch bracket.

Battery Master Switch 1

Battery Master Switch 2

Chapter 7 – Disassembly

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Front Shroud

Removed five cross head drive screws at the rear of the bonnet. Three screws with nuts must be removed at the front of the shroud at the bonnet opening. Two cross head screws and nuts also attach the shroud to upright posts. A third bolt and nut holds the prop rod bracket. Five pop rivets were drilled out along the scuttle. Two additional rivets must be drilled out along each side and where the rubber seal attaches to the scuttle. Two bolts securing the shroud to each frame extension in the front must be loosened from their nuts. The shroud can then be released from the rear and pulled forward.

Prop Rod Bracket Removed

Rivet Removal

Front Shroud to Frame Mount

Shroud Removed 1

Shroud Removed 2

Rear Body Panel (shroud)

The rear body panel is released by first drilling out 19 rivets along the lower lip. Thirteen rivets must be drilled out that hold the body panel to the luggage compartment frame. Two or three rivets must be drilled out on the side of the rear body panel where the wing fastens to it. Four cross head screws and nuts must be removed from the top lip of the boot opening. The rear body panel can then be removed. Care must be taken to not bend the small front lip on the aluminum panel at the front points.

Rear Shroud 1

Rear Shroud 2

Doors

Removed three posidrive screws holding the interior door handle. Removed four posidrive screws at rear of door by handle. Removed opening mechanism. Loosen phillips head screw in door handle accessible when the door handle is pulled. 5/16” nut on the door handle screw. Loosen 5/16” nut on the screw on the back of the door handle – not easy to get to! Door handle can then be extracted from the door.

Interior Door Handle

Exterior Door Handle Fastener

Door Latch

Door Fasteners

Removed side curtain bezel and retaining nut and chrome washer. Removed mid-door wood strip. One pozidrive screw on top center and two screws to the left and right on the bottom side. Removed the door strap (catch). 

Door Catch Mechanism

Interior Door Trim Panel Wood

Door Opener Mechanism Orientation

Remove door hinges. Four bolts into a securing plate for each hinge. Drilled small indentation into the top bracket to recognize it. On reassembly of doors mount outside door handle first. Then install mechanism so that the action arm is in the proper place.

Door Catch at Door

Door Hinges

Aluminum Door Hinge

Boot Lid 

Removed two screws and cup washers securing the handle/lock. Remove four bolts/nuts holding the lock/catch mechanism. Remove one screw holding the locking mechanism post. Lock surface was painted as were the screw tops so it was installed when the car was painted. The chrome lock and handle were installed after the car was painted because the locking post screw was not painted.

Exterior Boot Lid

Interior Boot Lid

Boot Lock Handle

Boot Lock

Removed the large cotter pin holding the rubber boot lid support rod. The rubber could then be removed as well. The head of he pin was located on the rod locator bracket side. A small cotter pin was removed from the support rod at the home bracket. The rubber grommet was then removed and the rod was detached.

Removed rubber gasket sealing boot lid.

Boot Rubber Seal

Boot Prop Rod Clasp

Heater Blower Assembly

Removed four nuts on posts through rubber grommets. Black ground wire connects to the angle pillar. Power is through a green wire with a brown stripe that plugs into a rubber junction. 

Removed the two heater blower mounting brackets. Two bolts each through wheel well arch. Large washers used on the tire side of the arch.

Smith’s Heater Blower

Blower Mounting Location on Frame Upright

Blower Mounting Rubber Grommets

Blower Motor Wiring Connections

July 28, 2002

Under Bonnet Components

Horns – Located on the left and right of center under the front shroud. Each horn is secured with two bolts fastened into small steel threaded plates. I don’t believe my horns or brackets to be correct as one was mounted on the vertical shroud support like later cars.

Horn on Shroud Upright

Horn Wiring Connections

Proper Horn Location Under Front of Shroud

Horn Mounting Bracket

Door Handles and Locks

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Door Handles and Locks

Keyless Entry or Remote Control Door Locks

I am installing a keyless entry system with central locking activated either by the front door handles (exterior or interior) or by a battery operated key fob. Details regarding the system may be found in the “Remote Control Door Locks” post in my web site: https://valvechatter.com/?p=9205.

This post will include the mechanical components of the door locking system. This image from the MK2 Service Manual provides a nice schematic of he parts used in the locking system:

MK2 Door Lock Mechanism

 

Outside Door Handles

I am using the original outside door handles, but each was rechromed. I cleaned each of the operating lever assemblies and greased each push button shaft with white lithium grease. 

Outside Door Handles with Operating Lever Assemblies

Outside Door Handles with Operating Lever Assemblies

Door Handle Lock Cylinders

The face of one of the lock cylinders was mangled from use so I decided to replace both cylinders with new units from SNG Barratt. The Service Manual indicates that only oil should be used to lubricate the the private lock cylinders, and recommends once a month. Grease is never to be used.

New Front Door Lock Cylinders and Keys

New Front Door Lock Cylinders and Keys

Lock Assemblies for Doors

I chose not to rechrome the lock assemblies, or lock cases as they are called in the Service Manual, primarily because they are not easy to take apart given that they are riveted together. While the chrome finish is not perfect on the locks, I think it will be good enough. I cleaned and lubricated each lock and polished the chrome. New chrome screws will be used. There is a small hole located at the top of each lock case (“T” in the schematic above) into which a few drops of thin machine oil should be introduced one a month.

Lock Assemblies for Doors

Lock Assemblies for Doors

 

Inside Door handles and Handles for Window Regulators

I am using the original inside door handles, but each was rechromed.

Inside Handles for Doors and Window Regulator Handles Rechromed

Inside Handles for Doors and Window Regulator Handles Rechromed

Door Lock Strikers

As with the locks, I choose not to rechrome the strikers. I cleaned and polished each. Each striker had a shim. The shims were cleaned and cad plated. New chrome screws will be used. Each Striker is mounted to the door with three chrome pozi-drive oval head 1/4″x28 x 1-1/4″ screws. 

Strikers for Door Locks

Strikers for Door Locks

Locking Mechanism Installation

First, all four exterior door handles are installed on the doors. Each handle has two #10-32 mounting studs with a flat washer, shakeproof washer and nut. The front of the handles had what appeared to be leather or fiber pads between the handle and the door when I removed them from the car. I replaced these with neoprene pads that I cut to shape. Once finally mounted, these can be cut to shape with a sharp razor knife.

Exterior Door handle with Neoprene Cushion

Then the base plate assemblies are attached to the handles. These assemblies are marked LH and RH. As explained in my “Remote Control Door Locks” post referenced earlier, the Connecting Links for each door lock are modified for the operation of my keyless entry system modification. I will not explain further in this post. 

LH Lock Base-Plate Assembly

RH Lock Base Plate Assembly Orientation on the Door Handle

In the poor photo below, the Base-Plate Assembly can be seen and its two #10-32 x 1″ mounting screws can accessed through the door aperture. These two screws attach the Assembly to the exterior door handle.

Door Lock Base Plate Assembly Viewed Through Aperture

As the Service Manual indicates, ” the appropriate assembly should be held in position inside the door panel and the clearance between the push button plunger and the (“O” in the schematic) and the lock contractor (P) checked through the aperture in the inner door panel. The clearance should be 1/32″. To adjust, release the lock-nut and screw the plunger bolt in or out as required and retighten the lock nut.”

Jag MK2 Lock Plunger Mechanism

I apologize for the confusion in nomenclature, but Jaguar calls the mechanical device below the “remote control.”

Rear Door Remote Controls with Lock Case Assemblies to the Left

The Service Manual directs that the remote controls are to be installed to the door and connected to the lock case assemblies while in the locked position. This is accomplished with split pins on the front remote controls and with a small piece of steel dowel on the rear doors. The images below show the front and rear remote controls installed on the doors.

Lock Remote Control Installation on Front Door

LH Rear Door Window Regulator Mount and Lock remote Control

Spire Nuts for Door Lock Remote Controls Installed

Circlip Connecting Remote Control Lock to the Lock Case Assembly

Lock Case Assembly with Four Mounting Screws

The lock Case Assembly is secured to the door with four chrome oval head phillips #10-32 x 3/4″ machine screws.

I replaced the original spire nuts and rubber grommets on each door with new items.