Tag Archives: Side Curtains

Side Curtains

Posted on by

March, 2009

I currently have brand new sidecurtains. They fit reasonably well, have new clear plexiglass that slides easily and the new aluminum frames are blemish free. In other words they look about as good as side curtains can look.

However, with a 7,000 – 8,000 mile cross country trip ahead of me, I am looking for a way to modify the sidecurtains so that they will not be so noisy. Even though they are new, they still rattle like crazy. The two plexiglass panels bang together and make a real racket.

Tim Moran and I have been working independently on a modification or redesign of the side curtains to address a couple of issues, but in my case primarily the noise.

I decided to use an old set of aluminum side curtain frames as the basis of my project. I cut the top and rear upright out of the frames so that I could slide a new piece of Lexan (one piece) into the frame. The inside track of the frame is wide enough to accept the 1/4″ Lexan. I suppose that I could spend some big bucks and have a fabricator make a chromed brass channel for a frame, but I didn’t have time before my trip. The other reason for modifying the original frame is that it allowed me to just insert new rubber seals to seal the side curtain to the exterior of the door. I used Lexan because it is much stronger than plexiglass, and it can be drilled without fear of cracking.

I also used the two original brackets that mount the side curtains to the inside of the door. For the rear bracket (as the photo shows) I inserted the bolt for the top fitting of the bracket through a hole I drilled in the Lexan. I then made a pattern for new glass and had a glass shop cut my Lexan. I am pretty satisfied with the one-piece side curtain glass. Of course, the big problem is no ventilation.

Solid Lexan Panel Image 1

Solid Lexan Panel Image 1

Solid Lexan Panel Image 1

Solid Lexan Panel Image 2

So I made an additional Lexan panel with a hinged section so that I could let in some fresh air and pay the tolls at the toll booths. I got my idea for this from Tim although our concepts are bit different. I used an acrylic hinge from McMaster-Carr.  http://www.mcmaster.com/#11565a12/=1dshceThe acrylic hinge is not as flexible as the polyester that McMaster-Carr offers, but it is completely clear.

Flap Lock When Folded

Flap Lock When Folded Image 3

Lexan Panel with Flap

Lexan Panel with Flap Image 4

I took the car for a ride with the new glass and I can only imagine that it must be very similar to a BJ7-8 now. Absolutely no rattling or wind buffeting and actually very little wind noise – quite comfortable.

To hold down the flap, you can see in the photos that I made a little metal tab from 12 gauge steel, 3/4″ wide. I rounded the corners and glued a piece of rubber to it so there is a buffer between the lexan and the metal. When the flap is in the upright position, you cannot see the metal tab as it is hidden behind the side curtain rear bracket. When the flap is down you just rotate the metal tab upward to hold the lexan flap.

I gave the hinged lexan panel with flap a road test also. Like the one piece lexan windows, the one with the fold down flap also functioned quite well. A little fresh air and no rattling. The air intake is limited. A larger flap would bring in more air I am sure. It is all a matter of personal taste.

In my continuing quest to improve on the design and therefore functionality of the side curtains I have recently experimented with aviation vents. I saw this idea on a Cobra Forum posting and thought I would give it a try. The vents are made of clear acrylic and cost all of $15.00 a pair. I ordered them from Aircraft Spruce http://www.aircraftspruce.com  Snap Vents, #05-01179, $14.85/pair.

Aircraft Vent in Solid Lexan Panel

Aircraft Vent in Solid Lexan Panel Image 5

Aircraft Vent in Solid Lexan Panel

Aircraft Vent in Solid Lexan Panel Image 6

Aircraft Vent in Solid Lexan Panel

Aircraft Vent in Solid Lexan Panel Image 7

Installation is literally a “snap.” I located where I wanted to the vent to be (avoid interference with wing driving mirror), and then drilled a 3 1/4” hole in the Lexan. Smooth the edges with a file and/or sandpaper and then compress the sides of the vent a bit and snap it in place. That is all there is to it. I like this option and plan to use it as my final solution (until I think of an improvement, of course!).

 

zz

Chapter 90 Week Sixty February 4, 2008

Posted on by

After doing some research on the soft top, I have decided to order a Robbins top and tonneau. I was originally going to use the Sun-Fast cloth material, but have decided to use the material that is closer to the original vinyl. They should arrive this week and then I will decide if I will do the installation myself or get a professional to do the job. 

I have discovered that the original drain tap on the left side of the motor leaks and I cannot seem to get it to stop. I ordered a new one, only to discover that it leaks too! I have decided to put a plug in the block in place of the tap.

I have new side curtains and I began the task of fitting them to the car. The RH curtain, although tight in the rear did mount successfully. The LH curtain, on the other hand, doesn’t seem to want to fit properly. I will “play” with it next week and see what I can work out.

Chapter 24 – Cleaning and Trial Fitting

Posted on by

February 12, 2005

Fitting Shrouds and Wings 

Rear Shroud –After removing all small components from the car I secured the shrouds and wings to the car to prepare it to go to Jeremy Turner for panel fitting and painting. To get the shroud and wings lined up properly, the rear shroud first needs to be riveted to the frame. There are a number of sheet metal screw holes in the superstructure and the shroud that Martin used to position the shroud, they are not needed for final installation.

In addition to the rivets, there are six #10 –32 x 1/2” flat head screws and nuts inside the top rear lip of the boot lid channel. Four of the screws attach through the two steel metal clips that provide support for the boot lid hinges.

rear fender fasteners

Rear wing securing plate 1

Wing right rear 1

Wing right rear 3

Wing right rear 4

Wing right rear 2

Front Shroud – Installed 3 flat head #10 x 1/2” machine screws in lip at front of the bonnet channel. Must catch the bottom frame rails on the inside first, then angle the back of the shroud up in the air – not easy to do!

Installed 5 flat head #6 x 3/8” sheet metal screws in lip at back of bonnet channel.

Installed two flat head #10 x 1/2” machine screws on each under bonnet vertical bracket. Couldn’t fasten properly on the left side because of the misformed panel at the left front corner of the superstructure.

Front Wings – Started with the fastener closest to the headlight. Then fastened the rearmost fastener. The long screws are used on the top of the wings. The clips with the shorter screws are used at the front of the wing by the turn signal lights.

Wing Right Front flange1

Wing Right Front flange 2

Car with wings 1

Doors – Pulled the door up and out and then tighten the hinge screws. May need to do some shimming to align correctly.

June 19, 2005 

Side Curtains – I determined that It was better to purchase new side curtains rather than restoring my old ones. However, while the new frames looked quite good, I thought the old rear brackets were better formed than the new brackets. To dress them up and avoid rust in the future, I decided to chrome plate the old brackets.

Chrome Plating 

I sent a number of parts to Custom Chrome Plating in Pennsylvania for plating. Some were for replating and others were items that I just decided to chrome. I am a little concerned about getting too much plating in the windscreen frame channels but it will hopefully turn out alright.

1 Breather Pipe

1 Bonnet Grille

1 Bonnet Grill Surround

1 Interior Dash Grab Handle

1 Interior Dash Grab Handle Escutcheon

2 Boot Hinges (2 pieces each)

2 Rear Seat Squab Retaining Channel Assemblies (2 pieces each)

1 Handbrake Handle

1 Handbrake Pawl

1 Handbrake Ratchet Plate

1 Thermostat Cover

2 Rear Seat Back Hinge Hardware (2 pieces each)

1 Windscreen Frame (4 pieces)

1 Front Grille

1 Boot Spare Tire Strap Staple

2 Side Curtain Brackets (2 pieces each)

Parts to chrome 2

Parts to chrome 10

Rear Seat Squab 

When I owned the car as a twenty year old I decided that rear speakers in the squab were more important than originality! I have decided to have the squab rebuilt by a local carpenter (He made the pieces and I put it together) before sending it to Heritage Upholstery and Trim for upholstery.

Rear Seat Squab assembly

Rear Seat Squab assembly

Rear Seat Squab assembly

Rear Seat Squab assembly

Rear License Plate Bracket and Lamp 

Since I am using Rally car bumpers rather than the original full bumper I need to develop a new approach to mounting the plate and the lamp. I had fabricated something myself, but then decided to modify the BJ8 bracket and mount it directly to the car. I saw another approach on Aussie Peter Jackson’s BN7 at VIR and I may still do something like his.

license & Lamp bracket 1

license & Lamp bracket 2

license & Lamp bracket 5

Peter Jackson’s car:

Peter Jackson’s Plate 

Peter Jackson’s Plate

Battery Master Switch 

So many have complained about problems with the original master switch that I decided to replace it with a modern equivalent from Hella. I mounted it in the original switch bracket.

Battery Master Switch 1

Battery Master Switch 2