John and Molly came over to assist in the “Big Lift,” the installation of the engine and gearbox into the car. This has been a long time coming. As a reminder, we are installing the 1275 engine along with a Datsun 210 5-speed gearbox. The following image shows the same procedure twenty years go!
Unfortunately, many have reported that the heater plenum needs to be “bashed” upward to provide clearance for the entry of the gearbox. We had hoped that we could avoid this step if we were very careful and took our time, but it was not to be. In the end we had to “adjust” the plenum to make room. That process is shown in the accompanying video.
We put together a check list of items that combines preparation steps along with necessary connections to get the engine in and then make it ready to start.
Remove Bonnet – struts and hinges.take the strut off first. before removing the bonnet hinges disconnect the Deutsch connector and the spade connector at the horn.
Jack Stands – place the car on jack stands.
Engine Hoist Leveler – Remove rocker cover and install leveler on engine.
Engine Mounts – Move rubber buffer from engine stand to the car mount.
Starter – Attach the power cable to the starter that will connect to the starter switch later in the process.
Battery Ground cable to firewall – disconnect during engine install.
Engine fan – install six blade fan and spacer. Install fan belt and check tension.
Crossbar protector – put the custom-made sheet metal protector over the steering rack crossbar to avoid damaging the paint.
Remove fluids – from engine, radiator and transmission
Timing marks – make sure these are visible on the pulley before installing the engine.
Driveshaft Prop – Grease the yoke and the transmission splines.
Slave cylinder – check threads of the two mounting bolts, should be metric. The threads of the push rod extend beyond the arm by approximately one half inch (6-8 threads showing). The excess on the spacing shim goes to the front of the engine. Find the slightly shortened Allen key for the new cap screws.
Engine Mounts – Install the left-hand engine mount onto the chassis and leave it loose. Install the right hand engine mount onto the engine and leave it loose.
Header – Set the exhaust header in place so that it will be positioned to install once the engine is in place.
Engine/transmission install with engine hoist – Check to see if the heater plenum will require modification. Before the assembly is all the way home push the driveshaft yoke into the rear of the transmission.
Transmission mount – install the ⅜” – 24 x 3 ½” bolts through the chassis and into the mount and tighten. Next, tighten the front engine mounts. Now center the transmission in the rear mount and tighten the transmission pad mounts. Install the bolts in the sides of the rear mounts from the inside of the car with the self locking nuts inside the tunnel. It may be helpful to tape the nuts in the wrench to make starting the threads easier.
Radiator – It is a little tricky to install. It works best to begin with the upper right (passenger side of the car) mounting point first, then the lower right, followed by the upper left mount and finally the lower left mount.
Radiator hoses – connect and clamp
Overflow coolant tank – determine right place for the overflow tank drain line and install a fitting in hose. Connect the radiator overflow to the tank.
Alternator – connect the wiring for the alternator.
Vacuum Pipe – connect the vacuum hose from the distributor to the carburetor.
Starter – attach the power cable from the starter to the starter switch.
Ignition Coil – attach the wiring to the coil and distributor. Connect the high tension line from the distributor.
Oil pressure gauge pipe/hose – connect to engine.
Water temperature gauge – connect capillary tube two cylinder head.
Rocker Cover – install the rocker cover.
Breather hose – connect the hoses and clamp
Driveshaft – connect and tighten bolts/nuts.
Refill fluids in engine, radiator and transmission – transmission requires 2 ¼ pints of Redline MT-90.
Clutch – Bleed the clutch master and then the slave cylinder. To eliminate all air, the slave cylinder piston should be held in the fully retracted position while bleeding. Do this by running out the adjustable push rod until it is pushing firmly on the clutch fork. Keep the master cylinder reservoir topped up while slowly and gently pumping the clutch size cylinder Into operating position. A power bleeder works well here.
Adjust the push rod length to give some free travel at the clutch pedal. Assure clutch is releasing fully while the vehicle is still up on jack stands. Confirm free play assuring that you can move the clutch operating lever away from the clutch slave cylinder push rod. Finger pressure against the lever should be able to move it against the pressure of the spring inside the Bell housing. Generally 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch of free play measured at the fork will be adequate. Be aware that the clutch pressure plate can be over traveled. If the clutch releases when the pedal is partway down, but then seems to reengage at full pedal down. It is being over traveled. Add free play until this condition disappears.
https://youtu.be/k11eIyfErMY?si=YUO94N5qavN61VFl
Battery ground cable to firewall – reattach.
Ground Strap – Attach engine to frame
Intake and Exhaust Manifolds with gasket – brass long nuts
Carburetor – install heat shield, phenolic spacer, choke and accelerator cable. Connect fuel hose from pipe to carb. Connect vacuum hose to distributor. Put ATF in the carb piston. Connect carb drain hose.
K&N Air Cleaner – Install and spray with special oil.
Heater hoses – attach both and clamp
Exhaust system – install, exhaust header, exhaust pipes, and muffler.
AFR gauge – connect gauge to the O2 sensor and power.
Gasoline – partially fill fuel tank with gasoline.
Battery – reconnect the battery ground cable to the firewall.
Start engine!
These things always take longer than expected, or at least hoped! However, at the end of the day, all that is important is that you got the “thing” in. Well, it was about the end of the day and we did get it in!
We did install the new slave cylinder sourced from Will Perry at Rivergate before the engine went into the car. Once the engine is installed there is not much room between the gearbox and the frame making it a tight squeeze to install the slave cylinder. We are also using a remote bleeder with a flexible hose.
Bugeye Restoration Video Episode One Hundred-One shows the process involved in the installation of the engine and gearbox as well as the short-throw gear shifter sourced from Gerard Chateauvieux at Gerard’s Garage.
https://vimeo.com/1076516667/7bc5103b4c?share=copy
Additional information about Gerard’s shifter is provided in another post: https://valvechatter.com/?p=13520
Bugeye Restoration Video Episode One Hundred-Three shows the process involved in making the various connections required to prepare the engine to start and the gearbox to operate properly. This video will be posted when complete.