Tag Archives: Exhaust

Alfa Ownership & Maintenance Blog, 2022

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Blog Posts:

6/27/2022 – DRIVER DOOR MAP POCKET REPAIR

6/13/2022 – DOOR CHECK STRAP REPLACEMENT

6/13/2022 – CHANGING THE TRANSMISSION OIL

6/10-11/2022 – EMERGENCY HOOD RELEASE & EMERGENCY TRUNK RELEASE

3/28/2022 – REPLACING THE CENTER MUFFLER

3/25/2022 – REPLACING WINDSHIELD WASHER HOSES

2/02/2022 – THROTTLE ROD END BREAK AND REPLACEMENT

1/21/2022 – DYEING ALFIE’S LEATHER WRAPPED STEERING WHEEL

1/18/2022 – REAR DIFFERENTIAL SEAL REPLACEMENT

JUNE 27, 2022

71,081 miles on the odometer

DRIVER DOOR MAP POCKET REPAIR

The map pocket door on the driver’s side of the car just flopped open and would not stay in the closed position. The image below of the passenger door shows how the map pocket door should align with its door card.

Passenger (RH) Side Map Pocket Door

After removing the door card, or panel, from the car and inspecting its reverse side it was obvious that the panel was missing two spring clips that hold the map pocket door closed as well as the plastic door bracket that prevents the door from pushing to far inward into the pocket. While this image is not from my car, it does highlight the missing components:

Missing Door Parts

I was able to locate the spring clips from Gerry Felice from the Alfa Bulletin Board. The “upper fork” is not available for the typical parts vendors. However, Kevin aka “Shaken” on the Alfa Bulletin Board has drawn piece and created a file that can be used to create as 3D printed part.

Shakey’s Door Packet Stop Bracket

The original bracket is black molded plastic. I sent the file to a company called Shapeways to have the piece printed. I did not specify black so it came to me in a natural white color, which is fine since the part is not visible.

Shapeways Printed Door Pocket Stop Bracket and Pad

The image below illustrates the two steel tabs that must be bent upward so that the spring clips can be positioned on the tab and under the plastic door pocket material. The tabs are then bent back down.

Door Pocket Spring retaining Tabs

This image shows the spring clips and door stop bracket in place with the retaining tabs bent back down:

Door Pocket Spring Clips and Stop Bracket in Place

The following video demonstrates the installation process and the finished product.

https://vimeo.com/725463131/92c92e842d

JUNE 15, 2022

71,081 miles on the odometer

DOOR CHECK STRAP REPLACEMENT

Based on the reports of the Alfa Bulletin Board contributors, I have been putting off the replacement of the door check straps. Almost universally those who have undertaken the job have indicated that is slow process involving some blood-letting. The straps are rubber coated metal strips. After 35 years the rubber is gone and only thin metal strips remain. Failure of the check strap could result in the door opening too far and denting the front fender.

So, after reviewing all of the bulletin board posts I could find I determined that it was time to dive in. The video found at the following link describes the process of removing and replacing the door panel as well as removing and replacing the check strap.

https://vimeo.com/725708633/a2af239c05

 

JUNE 13, 2022

71,081 miles on the odometer

CHANGING THE TRANSMISSION OIL

I have been experiencing some grinding of gears when trying to shift into reverse and first. It may be a synchronizer failure or my gear oil may be low or old. I decided that as a first step it would be prudent, and inexpensive, to change the oil. I first cleaned the area around the fill and drain plugs.

Alfa Transmission Fill and Drain Plugs

 I then loosened and removed the fill plug using a 12mm Allen key. I then loosened and removed the drain plug. I used a 7/8″ socket because I did not have the proper 22-23 mm socket. Almost two quarts of oil drained from the transmission.

Then using a syringe pump I filled the transmission with about 1 3/4 quarts of red line 75W 90 NS oil. Actually just fill until oil begins to drain out of the fill hole and then stop.

Red Line 75W90NS

I will now take the car for a test drive to see if the shifting in first and reverse have improved.

 

JUNE 10-11, 2022

71,074 miles on the odometer

EMERGENCY HOOD RELEASE

The Alfa uses cables to open the hood, trunk and gas filler door. If a cable breaks it is extremely difficult to access the engine compartment or the trunk. The gas filler door is not so much a problem as it can be accessed from the trunk interior. Experienced Alfa owners report on the Alfa Bulletin Board that they commonly install redundant systems to ensure that they can open the hood or trunk in case of a primary cable failure. I opted to install an emergency hood release cable in my 87 Quadrifoglio. 

The following link is for a video of the installation process: https://vimeo.com/719413337/f85441ad15

EMERGENCY TRUNK RELEASE

It is explained in the accompanying video, but once I started this project I discovered that a previous owner must have experienced a broken trunk cable because he/she had opted to drill a hole through the rear license mounting plate and body to be able to access the trunk lock latch with a screwdriver to get into the trunk. This eliminated the need for me to do anything else because I now know how to get into the trunk in the future should I encounter a problem!

The following link is for a video that depicts what I encountered: https://vimeo.com/719430011/c23e29753c

MARCH 28, 2022

71,022 miles on the odometer

REPLACING THE CENTER MUFFLER

It was suspected that the muffler might have some holes in it, because when driving the car it seemed to sound like there could be an exhaust leak. A new center muffler was ordered from Classic Alfa, and after painting with some high temp silver paint, the old muffler was removed and the new muffler was installed. A new “donut” seal was installed at the joint between the center muffler rear pipe and the rear muffler pipe. I had to order the gasket for the center muffler front pipe to the catalytic converter rear pipe fitting from Rock Auto. Some red high temperature Permatex sealant was used with the gasket. 

The following link is for a video of the muffler replacement process: https://vimeo.com/695260156/4989a3c31a

 

MARCH 25, 2022

71,010 miles on the odometer

REPLACING WINDSHIELD WASHER HOSES

The car developed a leak in the windshield washer system. To determine its source it was necessary to remove the scuttle panel between the windshield and the hood. The link below provides navigation to a video that illustrates the full repair that became a bit more involved than expected. For example, it was discovered the almost all of the plastic screw housings in the black plastic vent grille were broken. Fortunately, I was able to locate another used grille in good shape by calling the Alfa Parts Exchange.

This is a helpful document put together by one of the contributors to the ALFA Bulletin Board: cowl panel removal

The video narration describes replacing the washer system hoses with silicone hoses; however, I found these to be a little too large in diameter so I ended up using 4mm clear hose from Classic Alfa.

https://vimeo.com/693201098/00a0e1618c

 

 FEBRUARY 6, 2022

70,964 miles on the odometer

THROTTLE ROD END BREAK AND REPLACEMENT

It has been pretty chilly (by South Florida standards) the last few weeks. Yesterday was very nice so I took Alfie for a little ride with the top down. I was just humming along thinking how nice he was running when my accelerator pedal was suddenly “disconnected” and no longer affecting the throttle. Coasted to a stop and looked under the hood. Discovered that the lower end throttle link was no longer connected to the rod.

Following a Hagerty call I was towed back to the house. It turns out the rod ends are made of plastic and based on comments from the guys on the Alfa Bulletin Board, failure is not unusual. The lower rod end broke. I ordered and installed the metal variety of the rod ends from Centerline. No biggie, but way to ruin a pretty day!

Broken Plastic Throttle Rod End Link – Bottom

I took some measurements so that I could reinstall the rod in the same relationship as when it broke.

Rod End Measurements for Replacement

Cleaned Rod with New Metal Rod Ends

 

January 21, 2022

70,905 miles on the odometer

DYEING ALFIE’S LEATHER WRAPPED STEERING WHEEL

Thirty five years of use definitely shows on Alfie’s steering wheel. At some point I may well replace the leather wrapped wheel with a wood steering wheel, but in the meantime I think dyeing and feeding the leather might improve its current look. Indeed as the video shows below, the condition of the wheel was improved, albeit slightly.

https://vimeo.com/668992710/a626a35059

Steering Wheel after Dye

January 18, 2022

70,900 miles on the odometer

REAR DIFFERENTIAL SEAL REPLACEMENT 

Finishing the job of replacing the pinion seal in Alfie’s rear differential was delayed by about six weeks because I broke my leg! However, as of January 18, at least on a limited basis, I am back in the garage and  focused on getting the Alfa back on the road. In 2022, I am going to try something new. Rather than a heavy reliance on written explanation and photographs, I am going to try and my hand at video documentation perhaps supplemented with some photos.

So, on January 18 I gathered together the parts and materials I needed to complete the job and go to it. After removing the driveshaft in December I was able to clean and paint it and check that the universal joints were okay. They seemed to be so the driveshaft was ready to reinstall in the car. As noted previously and as will be seen in the video, a special socket is required for the removal and tightening of the pinion nut. As can be seen in the screen shot below taken from the service manual, the torque spec for the pinion nut has a fairly large range from 57.5 to 101.1 Ft Pb. At the recommendation of others I simply torqued the nut to 75 Ft Pb. At least in my case this seemed to work satisfactorily.

Rear Pinion Diagram with Torque specs

Prior to replacing the pinion seal the leak from the rear diff was considerable. I am pleased to report that following this bit of maintenance I have literally no oil dripping from the differential, so I will call this job a success and move on to the next project.

This is a link to my VIMEO video documenting the process: https://vimeo.com/668974379/42bb0d6a76

 

 

Chapter 88 Week Fifty-Eight January 21, 2008

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Jeremy Turner came by the house and helped me make final adjustments to the doors. The fit is good, but not quite as nice as I would prefer. The aluminum wings just don’t fit as well with the doors as the original steel wings, but as my wife, Judith, says, “only you and a concourse judge will see that the fit isn’t perfect!”

Finished Door Assembly 5

Finished Door Assembly 1

LH Door

After finishing up the doors, I put the exhaust clamps on the exhaust system. With the headers and big bore pipes, the exhaust note is a bit louder than the original system, but it sounds great and I can still hear the sound system over the rumble!

The tops and tonneau are the only components that remain. I must say, it feels pretty good to take a look at the Bloody Beast in the driveway. I know it will be even more gratifying to get the Healey out on the road.

Shane and “Little” Shane paid us a visit and, of course, “Little” Shane wanted to inspect the progress on the red car.

Shane & Shane

Little Shane

Chapter 30 – Cleaning and Trial Fitting

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Jeremy Turner’s Work Continues

Headlights and turn signals – Jeremy worked on fitting the headlights and turn signal lights to the front wings/shroud. We discovered that the aluminum wings were not molded properly to fit to the shroud. Some body work is required. The result won’t be perfect, but should only be noticeable to Jeremy, me and someone like Rich Chrysler!

Right headlight mounting 2

Right Headlight mounting 

Left headlight mounting 1

Left headlight mounting 2

Fender Beading – Then it was nice to try the fender beads on both front fenders.

Fender Beading

Front Fender Beading

Rear wings and boot lid – Then attention was turned to the back of the car. Rear wings fitted, boot lid tested with the old gasket applied, and the rear rally bumpers fitted as well. Again, great to see continued progress. The goal is to return the car to me in two weeks to be stripped for bodywork, blasting again, and priming of the frame. Getting some red paint on the “Bloody Beast” is nearing!!

Left side in primer

Boot in primer

Here is Jeremy Turner, starting to look like a proud father. He just does great work.

Jeremy and the bloody beast

The fender beading is installed in the rear fenders, and the aluminum cowl is put in place.

September 19, 2006

Exhaust – Because the Jule Enterprises frame did not include the mounting points for the exhaust hangers, Jeremy needed to fit the exhaust and determine where the hangers needed to mount to the car.

Exhaust 5

Exhaust 8

Exhaust 3

Exhaust 1

Exhaust 2

Exhaust 4

Windscreen – Yesterday I took the afternoon off and went to Broadway to help Jeremy with a final check of the exhaust system before drilling the holes in the frame and floorboard for the hangers and to install the windscreen. We did adjust the front mount for the muffler to get it up a little higher. The posts for the windscreen did require some grinding to get the windscreen to fit properly, but after several “trial-and-error” fitting sessions, we got the windscreen installed properly. It really made the shell begin to look like a car! I was so excited with the progress I forgot to take photos. I brought a lot of parts home (emblems, lights and etc.) that fortunately are no longer needed for fitting.

 September 22, 2006

Door shut face finishers again – In order to get the aluminum shut face finishers and the rear quarter panels to fit, we decided that we needed to cut the weld on the front of the hood mount plate and bend it up a bit to have it align with the top of the aluminum trim and to permit the rear quarter panels to slide under. This strategy proved successful, as Jeremy was able to get the new Heritage quarter panels to fit properly. The new shut face finishers from Moss (Kilmartin products) arrived and much to my relief they fit perfectly! The photos also show some small pieces of rubber door seal “Bristle Flex” that came from Macgregor in Canada. It seemed to fit well, although it does not appear as original.

door shut face finisher kilmartin 1

Rear quarte panel fitting 3

The lower bracket that secures the rear quarter panel to the footboard had to be made larger so that it would contain the panel. Jeremy did a nice job of fabricating the brackets. Following complete trial fitting the gap at the front of the hood mount will be welded closed.

Rear quarter panel fitting 2

hood mount reposition 2

 September 27, 2006

Hood Mount Plate – Jeremy welded the front lip of the hood mount plate and completed final fitting of the aluminum door shut finishers along with the vinyl beading. It took some time to get to the point that the door did not rub against the vinyl. 

Anti-sway bar brackets – Then he moved to installing the brackets I purchased from Kilmartin for the anti-sway bar. I still do not understand why Martin Jansen did not install these as part of his Jule frame package.

Sway bar brackets 1

Sway bar brackets 2

 

 

 

 

 

 

Exhaust

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Exhaust System

Exhaust System

Exhaust System Components

The primary components of the system include  front and rear downpipes, a twin silencer assembly (one piece), and a twin tailpipe assembly (also one piece). Copper sealing rings are used to join together the downpipes and the exhaust manifolds. A series of clamps are used to secure the components to one another and two different systems of exhaust hangers are used to “hang” the exhaust system from the car.

Removal

The Jaguar Service Manual states: 

“Remove the two nuts, bolts and plain washers securing the tail pipe under the rear bumper to the bracket of the body on the left hand side.

Slacken the two clips securing the exhaust down pipes to the silencers.

Remove the nut, bolt and washer securing the front of the silencers to the body.

Remove the two bolts, nuts and washers securing the middle of the silencers to the body.

Lower the tail pipes and withdraw the silencers from the down pipes.

Remove the four nuts and washers securing each downpipe to the exhaust manifolds on the engine, when the downpipes can be removed. Collect the sealing rings which are between the exhaust manifold and the downpipe.”

Refitting

Again, the Service Manual states:

“Renew the copper sealing rings when refitting the exhaust downpipes to the exhaust manifolds. Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure.”

Of course, removal or reinstallation never seems to prove to be quite that easy!

Exhaust Hangers/Mounts

There is some confusion about the exhaust hangers (mounts) used on the MK2. Some cars use the hangers shown in the diagram above found in the Jaguar Parts Catalogue. This involves a “ring and pin” design with rubber bushings.

While others, including my car as it was disassembled, use rubber which is vulcanized to metal plates as the mounts. This arrangement is shown as the illustrative diagram provided in the Jaguar Service Manual:

Jaguar MK2 Exhaust

The bonded brackets are part#13 in the diagram immediately above and new mounts look like this:

Vulcanized Exhaust Brackets

What I am calling the “Ring and Pin” Mounting system assembly from SNG Barrett looks like this:

Ring and Pin MK2 Exhaust Mounts

 

Usually the Parts Catalogue is pretty good at describing when component changes occurred in the manufacturing sequence, but in this case I was not able to find anything definitive. 

Exhaust Hanger System as Removed from My Car

There are four exhaust hangers for the silencers and pipes. One is located centrally at the front of the silencers; one at the rear of each silencer; and, one at the back of the tailpipe – Bracket Assembly Locating Rubber Mounting at Wheel Arch. 

This is the bracket at the rear wheel arch minus its rubber fitting which had separated from the bond to the metal. The bracket is secured to the wheel arch with two 5/6″ – 24 x 3/4″ hex head bolts and nuts along with a “double-nut” for locking I am sure. I have not seen this type of nut before.

Rear Bracket

Rear Bracket

Rear Bracket

Rear Bracket

This image shows the remaining bits of the bracket on the removed tailpipes.

Exhaust Removed

Exhaust Removed

It should be noted that if you look carefully, short bushings were used at the rear mount to align the rear tailpipes.

Exhaust Heat Shields

I cleaned the front, intermediate, and rear heat shields and had them media blasted and powder coated. The heat shields are mounted to the underside of the floor with a total of ten 1/4″- 28 x 1/2″ hex head bolts with shakeproof and flat washers.

Powder Coated Exhaust Heat Shields

Powder Coated Exhaust Heat Shields

After powder coating I lined the underside of the heat shields with Thermo Tec’s  Aluminized Heat Barrier with adhesive backing. I ordered a 24 x 48″ piece, Part number 1828-24×48 from PegasusAutoRacing.com. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=1828. For trial fitting of the exhaust system, I went ahead and also installed the heat shields.

Three Exhaust Heat Shields with Thermo Tec Insulation

Three Exhaust Heat Shields with Thermo Tec Insulation

Forward Exhaust Heatshield Installed

Forward Exhaust Heatshield Installed

Intermediate and Rear Exhaust Heat Shields Installed

Intermediate and Rear Exhaust Heat Shields Installed

The New Exhaust System Installation

I opted to use the more robust “ring and pin” mounting system though it is not what was originally on my car. The vulcanized mounts produced today unfortunately have a reputation for separating. Some owners have resorted to putting screws or bolts through the metal and rubber to hold the brackets together should the bond break.

I purchased a new stainless steel Bell exhaust system from SNG Barratt along with new sealing rings.

The downpipes are new but discolored because they were used for the engine run-in after rebuilding.

Exhaust Downpipe Sealing Rings

I also purchased exhaust pipe clamps from Terry’s Jaguar https://www.terrysjag.com. They sell clamps that are marketed as “Bell” clamps. I don’t know that they are, but I do prefer them to the hoop style typically available at auto parts stores. They don’t deform the pipes as the hoop-type clamp can do.These clamps are 1-7/8″ or 47-51mm.

Bell Hangers for MK2 Exhaust Installation

Bell Hanger 47-51 mm

After seeking advice from others on the various forums I began my installation. The only real advice I received was to hang all parts of the assembly loosely together before tightening. However, (at least in my case) I found that I could not fully follow the advice!

I took the advice I received literally and kept everything loose – the exhaust and the hangers. However, once the exhaust is in place it is practically impossible to tighten the “ring and pin” midpoint hangers to the car. So, I will slightly modify the advice I received to the following: Tightly secure the single hanging mount at the front of the silencers and the double “ring and pin” mount at the rear of the silencers to the car. One can leave the rear “ring and pin” mount in the LH rear wheel well loose. Then loosely hang all of the exhaust components.

It is challenge to get the rubber bushes in the hanger rings. I heated mine in pot of hot water and I applied rubber grease to the metal rings. With the brackets in a vice I was then able to push the softened rubber bushes into place.

Rubber Grease on Exhaust Mount Ring

Rubber Bushing Installed in Exhaust Mount

New stainless steel studs (four each) were used in each of the exhaust manifolds for mounting of the downpipes.

Exhaust Manifolds to Downpipes

Beginning with both exhaust manifolds mounted tightly to the cylinder head (with new gaskets), I then slid the sealing ring and square mounting plate over the rear downpipe and loosely mounted it to the studs on the rear manifold with flat washers and brass nuts.

Exhaust Manifolds Mounted

Care must be taken to place the mounting plate on the pipe in the proper direction. One side of the mounting plate is concave to join properly with the sealing ring, while the other side of the plate is flat. Lock washers are not used per the parts catalogue.

Exhaust Downpipe Washers and Brass Nuts

I was then ready to mount the front downpipe, but noticed that once the front downpipe is mounted, it would be impossible (for me anyway) to access all of the mounting nuts on the rear pipe to fully tighten each of them. So, before mounting the front downpipe, I went ahead and tightened each of the four nuts on the rear downpipe. 

I then mounted the front downpipe to the front exhaust manifold with the four flat washers and brass nuts. In this case, I did mount the downpipe loosely until the complete system is configured. Note in the photo below that when fully tightened the mounting plate and the exhaust manifold mounting face do not join. The sealing ring is doing its job and providing the seal between the manifold and the downpipe.

The triangle cut-out for exhausting heat from the engine bay has the alternative benefit of access to the downpipes mounts and to the steering linkage!

Exhaust Downpipes Front Mounted Loosely

The image below shows the downpipes mounted under the car. Once on the lift I can get a much better photo, but in this case the car is simply on jack stands which makes good photography difficult!

Exhaust Downpipes in Place

On my final installation I will try to get a little more separation between the two downpipes, but what I have now if fine for my trial run of the car.

The central section of the assembly containing the twin silencers has a single front mount and the double mount for the “ring and pin” assembly at the rear. I must say the Bell system fit perfectly and was fairly easy to mount. I slid the center section onto the downpipes and loosely fit the rear of the section to the “ring and pin” mounts. I found this to be pretty easy to do. However, I found getting a bolt and nut secured at the front mount is extremely difficult requiring patience and long slender fingers. I have patience but not the long slender fingers! Using a floor jack to slightly lift the front of the silencer section (the welded bracket joining the two silencers is the perfect place) makes inserting the bolt and nut a little easier than if the assembly was hanging free.

I also discovered that my original bonded hanging mounts are slightly longer that what is now sold (at least by SNG Barratt). It is difficult to tell in the image below but I think you can make out the difference. I ended up using my best original hanger rather than one of the new ones. It made the job a bit easier.

Old and New Hangers

Finally, after bolting the rear mount ring bracket and rubber bush to the tailpipe section, I pushed the tailpipes onto the silencer section pipes and slid it into place on the rear mount previously secured to the car. 

Exhaust Tailpipe Rear Hanger

I then retraced my steps and firmly tightened all connecting points. With the exception of the front silencer mount this job turned out to be quite a bit easier than I expected. The Bell system is a high quality product with a fit that is spot on.