Fuel System

Petrol Filter

AC supplied the fuel filtration device for the Jaguar. My early version includes a filtration screen, but newer versions have a paper filter in the bowl.

The filter is bolted to a mounting bracket with two 5/16″ – 24 x 3/4″ hex head bolts, split washers and hex nuts. The bracket and filter are then mounted to the RH wing valance with two 5/16″ – 24 x 3/4″ hex head bolts, split washers and hex nuts.

Petrol Filter

Petrol Filter

Petrol Filter & Bracket

Petrol Filter & Bracket

I trial fit the fuel filter and fuel pipe to the RH valance.
Fuel Filter and Fuel Pipe Installed

Fuel Filter and Fuel Pipe Installed

Fuel Lines

I am replacing the hard brake lines, but the original hard fuel lines were in very good shape. I just cleaned them before reinstalling.

Cleaned Fuel lines

 

The hard fuel lines run along the RH frame rail. Rather than using the original mounting clips, I used a double stainless steel clip that permitted running the fuel and brake pipe in parallel on one side of the clip and the battery cable in the other. Information and photos of the fuel line installation can be found here” https://valvechatter.com/?p=6627.

Petrol Tank Filter

I ordered a new filter for the tank.

Petrol Tank Filter

Petrol Tank Filter

Petrol Pump

I ordered a new SU electronic petrol pump to replace the old, but still functioning unit.

SU Electronic Petrol Pump AZX1308EN

SU Electronic Petrol Pump AZX1308EN

As part of the trial fitting process, I installed the two rubber grommets with their metal “distance tubes” in the boot. Pushing the grommets into place is no easy task. I placed them in boiling water for a few minutes to soften them and it did seem to help. Also put a little vaseline on the mounting plate to which they are affixed.

Petrol Filter & Bracket

Petrol Filter & Bracket

A black 14 AWG wire is used as the ground for the pump and it attaches to the mounting plate via a #10 – 32 x 1/2″  machine screw, flat washer, split washer, and nut. A spade connector is located on the pump for the other end of the wire.

Ground Wire Mounting for Fuel Pump

Ground Wire Mounting for Fuel Pump

I cut the new nylon hoses, sourced from SNG Barratt, to length using the originals as patterns, and pressed them onto their pump fittings. I then installed the pump by inserting the pump mounting studs through special large washers (to evenly compress the rubber grommets) and then fastened in place with lock washers and nuts.

Fuel Pump Mounting Studs, Special Washers and nuts

Fuel Pump Mounting Studs, Special Washers and nuts

Installed Fuel Pump with Nylon Hoses

Installed Fuel Pump with Nylon Hoses

Petrol Hoses

New petrol hoses were purchased for installation. I had purchased the hard nylon tubing from SNG Barrett as shown in the image above, but have since decided to use rubber fuel hose. The rubber hose is easier to work with. I did not want to use the fuel tank for the fuel source for  a test start-up of the engine, so I plumbed the fuel pump, including the relocated fuel filter, and will use a five gallon plastic fuel can sitting in the spare tire well.

Fuel Pump Hose Fittings 5/16″ Rubber Fuel Hose

Fuel Hose with Filter to Temporary Fuel Source

 

The petrol hose fittings from the petrol pump were cleaned and clear cad plated for re-use.

Fasteners for Petrol Pump Hose

Fasteners for Petrol Pump Hose

The image below shows these fasteners securing the fuel hard line that travels to the front of the car from the fuel pump. The image was taken from the floor, looking up to the underside of the boot.

Fuel Connection From Pump to Pipe to Engine Bay

Petrol Tank Element Unit

The unit is secured to the tank with six set screws and 12 copper washers and a cork seal. The unit is positioned in the tank so that the float is toward the front of the car. I did check the fuel gauge with my multimeter and found it to be functioning properly. The swing motion of the Petrol tank Element Unit float arm worked just fine and the interior of the units seemed to be clean and without damage so I just cleaned up the exterior of the mechanism and got it ready to reinstall when the time comes. I ordered a new seal.

Petrol Tank Element Unit, Seal and Fasteners

Petrol Tank Element Unit, Seal and Fasteners

Throttle Link Rod Assembly on Trunnion

I just media blasted this throttle controls component to zinc plate for reuse.

Throttle Link Rod Assembly on Trunnion

Throttle Link Rod Assembly on Trunnion

Throttle Link Rod Assembly on Trunnion

Throttle Link Rod Assembly on Trunnion

SU HD6 Carburetors

I am using the original HD6s used on my 3.8 motor. The carbs and all of the hardware were cleaned and inspected by Joe Curto and rebuilt by Mike Gassman. Mike tuned for the run-in, but I will re-tune after the engine is in the car and operating with load. These are tuning instructions located on the Moss Motors website:

SU Carb Tuning

Carburetors Fuel Feed Pipe

I am not using the original “pancake” air cleaner designed for the 3.8 MK2. I just cannot cover up the beautiful twin cam engine with a big ugly air cleaner, so I will be using small air cleaners located at each carb. This does create a few logistics problems. For starters, the original carb fuel feed pipe junction fitting and flexible line to the fuel filter on the RH engine bay valance conflict with the front air cleaner. This image illustrates the problem with fitting individual air cleaner using the original fuel feed pipe.

Original Fuel Feed Pipe to Carbs

Original Fuel Feed Pipe to Carbs

I had a new fuel feed pipe made using the original fittings with a relocated junction to avoid the problem.

Original Carb Fuel Feed Pipe & Fittings

Original Carb Fuel Feed Pipe & Fittings

Modified Carb Fuel Feed Pipe

Modified Carb Fuel Feed Pipe

 

The Auxiliary Starting Carburetor – Otter Switch

The auxiliary carburetor is an enrichment device to make starting the car easier. The unit is actuated by a thermostatic switch (Otter Switch). These switches are notorious for failure; however, Mike Eck, best known for his Jaguar clock repair, upgrades the original Otter Switch by by putting a sealed thermostatic module inside it, so it looks the same as it did originally but works reliably.  At the time I had his improvement fitted he charged $45 for the modification.

Otter Switch

Otter Switch

The electrical connection from the otter switch to the solenoid of the enrichment carb is achieved with a dark green 18 AWG wire in a rubber sleeve. 

Otter Switch Electrical Connection to Auxiliary Starting Carb

The thermostatically controlled enrichment caburetter is actuated by a solenoid. The additional electrical connection for the solenoid comes from a four way snap connector on the RH engine bay valance. The connector joins the 18 AWG light green/white from the enrichment carb solenoid with the wire emanating from fuse position #22 to the brake switch. In other words, the starting carb gets its power from the powered side of the brake switch located on the RH engine bay valance.

 

Trial Installation Update

Carburetor Mounting

I installed the carbs as an assembly. I loosened the couplings between the connecting rod and the throttle spindles, fully closed each butterfly and then secured the couplings. In my case because I am not using the original air cleaner, I had to remove the dowel bolts that connects the throttle stop bracket between the front and rear carbs. I replaced the dowel bolts with 5/16″-24 x 1″ hex head bolts and nuts. After the carbs were mounted to the inlet manifold I removed the two nuts and the 1″ hex head bolt was then used for the installation of the air cleaner.

Before mounting the carb assembly on the inlet manifold I first installed one gasket (c.7221), then an insulator block (C.8486) and then another gasket (C.7221) on the four 5/16″-24 inlet manifold studs for each carburetor.

Gaskets and Insulator Blocks between Carb Bodies and Inlet Manifold

I then mounted the assembly and securely tightened split washers and nuts on each of the eight studs. Before tightening the two nuts/washers on the lower studs of the front carburetor, I reinstalled the bracket assembly for the throttle return spring anchorage. I cleaned and painted the bracket but this is what it looked like prior to “clean-up.”

Bracket Assembly on Front Carburetor

Fuel Delivery

After the carburetor assembly is mounted on the inlet manifold, the starting pipe assembly is connected with two short pieces of neoprene fuel hose requiring four Jubilee Hose Clips. I don’t have a good photo of the staring pipe full assembly, but these are the three components that screw into the underside of the inlet manifold.

Front Manifold Starting Pipe Assembly

Center Manifold Starting Pipe Assembly

Rear Manifold Starting Pipe Assembly

The neoprene hose connections are not simply made and must be done from below the car. These can be seen in the photo below, although they are somewhat difficult to ascertain. The photo was taken from below the car.

Manifold Starting Pipe Assembly Fuel Hose Connections

I have decided to move the fuel filter from the engine bay. 

I am sure that the original design is perfectly fine, but I was never fond of Jaguar’s placement of the fuel filter on the RH engine bay valance. The filter has a glass bowl that is functional permitting easy viewing of fuel flow and any sediment caught by the filter, but I am leary of fuel in glass in an engine compartment. With no insulation, the fuel is also subject to “boiling” after the engine has been run and then parked due to residual engine heat. 

Eliminating the original AC fuel filter from the engine bay also gives me some much needed room under the bonnet. With my modifications including air conditioning, power steering, and carb mounted air cleaners among other items, space in the engine bay is at a premium.

Jaguar located the petrol pump in the LH side of the boot and I decided to do the same with the fuel filter. I will install a Fram G-2 opaque plastic filter  between the fuel tank and the fuel pump.

Fram G-2 Fuel Filter

I cut the long 5/16″ steel fuel line that travels along the RH frame rail from the rear of the car to the front slightly above, but near the oil filter. I installed a ninety degree elbow female compression brass fitting to the end of the fuel line. Holyoke P/N 70-54, 5/16 compression to 1/4 NPT. The elbow is attached to a male 1/4″ NPT to 5/16″ barb fitting.  I then ran a 5/16″ ethanol resistant rubber fuel hose from the barbed fitting to the barbed fitting on the carburetor fuel delivery pipe. Used two 11-16mm jubilee hose clamps.

Brass Connection Hardware from Fuel Pipe to Rubber Fuel Hose

Fuel line from tank is connected to the rubber fuel hose that is routed to the Caburetters

A Jubilee Hose Clip is used to tighten the hose on the barbed fitting.

The image below shows the new rubber fuel hose running from the head fuel line under the car to the carburetor fuel feed pipe.

Fuel Hose from Carb Fuel Feed Pipe to Hard Pipe from Tank

Throttle Return Springs

With all of the fuel delivery hose connections made, I then attached the throttle link rod assembly on trunnion – part #81 in the schematic to the bell crank lever assembly from the accelerator controls and tightened the securing screw holding the ball joint together.

Throttle Link Rod Assembly

I then moved onto the throttle return springs. The shorter spring is the return spring from the lever on the front carburetor to the anchor bracket mounted below the front carburetor (photo shown above). The longer spring is the return spring from the linkage to the Bracket on the Oil Cleaner.

Throttle Return Springs

My next step was to loosen the two float chamber overflow pipes at the float bowls so that the pipes could be aligned and routed through the clip near the oil filter.

Air Cleaners

As previously mentioned, I am using carb mounted air cleaners rather than the original contraption that I am confident worked well but completely covered up the beautiful twin cam engine. After experimenting with a number of options, I settled on air cleaners sourced from Advanced Performance Technology (APT) http://www.aptfast.com. These air cleaners use K&N Filters.

Carb and Fuel Connections Schematic

The “intermediate throttle lever from throttle link to stop bracket” – part# 82 in the diagram – on the  MK2 carb set up is offset to the rear of center. This requires a comparable offset in the air cleaner mounting to avoid the throttle lever striking the air cleaner casing as it travels its logical path.

I used filters that are 1-3/4″ tall. The rear cleaner is offset upward and is part number: SD24-318 for HD6 SUs. The front cleaner is center mounted and is part number SD4-318. The air cleaner casings are actually highly polished. The blue tint in the image below is a plastic protective coating that easily peels off.

APT K&N Air Filters

A gasket is placed over the mounting studs for the air cleaners and then the back plate of the air cleaner is installed and secured. I used a 5/16″-24 x 3/4″  and a 5/16″-24 x 1″ for each air cleaner. The longer bolt is needed where it must also travel through the throttle stop bracket.

Air Filter Rear Plate Mounted

The K&N oiled filter is then installed followed by the cover plates secured by shake proof washers and acorn nuts on the studs.

K&N Air Filter Element Installed

APT K&N Air Cleaners Temporarily Mounted

Air Cleaner Update – Cold Air Box

Well, after the time devoted to researching the ideal air cleaner solution and the expense of ordering the K&N offset filters, I became convinced that an air box delivering cool air to the carbs is the way to go. I recently saw several approaches to these “boxes” on some of the Jag Forums, and Mike Gassman of Gassman Automotive convinced me that the cold air delivery system would be a good modification to make to assist with expected heat problems under the bonnet. I anticipate that my air conditioning system will add more heat to an already “hot” situation. Mike has a very talented welder/fabricator on his team, Brandon Tyree, who designed, fabricated and installed the “box” – I am going to call it a “pipe.” I don’t know why “they” call these  things “cold air” boxes – they do not deliver cold air, but instead, ambient air from outside the engine bay to the carbs. A “pipe” also has all smooth and rounded surfaces which would seem to promote better air flow than a “box.”

This topic deserves a separate post and it may be found at: https://valvechatter.com/?p=9163

Cold Air Box

Air Cleaners to Cold Air Box

Well, after the time devoted to researching the ideal air cleaner solution and the expense of ordering the K&N offset filters, I became convinced that an air box delivering cool air to the carbs is the way to go. I recently saw several approaches to these “boxes” on some of the Jag Forums, and Mike Gassman of Gassman Automotive http://www.gassmanautomotive.com convinced me that the cold air delivery system would be a good modification to make to assist with expected heat problems under the bonnet. I anticipate that my air conditioning system will add more heat to an already “hot” situation. Mike has a very talented welder/fabricator on his team, Brandon Tyree, who designed, fabricated and installed the “box” – I am going to call it a “pipe.” I don’t know why “they” call these  things “cold air” boxes – they do not deliver cold air, but instead, ambient air from outside the engine bay to the carbs. A “pipe” also has all smooth and rounded surfaces which would seem to promote better air flow than a “box.”

Brandon began with a three inch tube and worked his magic. The pipe punches through the side wall of the RH engine bay valance and snakes down to the front of the RH wheel well, near the reservac tank. A K&N air filter is installed on the end of the pipe. 

The pipe installation will require a slight relocation of the wiper motor. Mounting points have been located and the final fitting of the wiper motor will occur after the engine is removed, before bodywork and painting.

After the engine is removed from the car and access is improved, the valance opening will be refined and a trimmed MGB gear shift leaver rubber gaiter will be used as a grommet to cushion the pipe through the valance wall.

Removing the air pipe is quite easy. The two clamps on the silicone sleeve joining the two sections of the pipe are loosened allowing the wheel well pipe to be removed. The same four 9/16″ inch hex head bolts used to fasten the air cleaners are then loosened and removed. The original carb/air cleaner gaskets are also used.

The air pipe can then be rotated and lifted away.

Thanks to Mike Gassman for the ideas and conceptual design and to Brandon Tyree for his superb execution.

Cold Air Delivery Pipe to Carbs Top View

Cold Air Delivery Pipe to Carbs

Cold Air Delivery Pipe to Carbs

This image shows the hole cut in the engine bay valance for the pipe. As mentioned it will be “cleaned-up” when the engine is out of the car and before bodywork and paint. Locating the hole was a little trickier than it might have otherwise been because of the previously located air conditioning hoses, drier, and trinary switch. 

Cold Air Delivery Pipe to Carbs RH Valance Access Hole

The following two images show the pipe joint, silicone sleeve, clamps and pipe extension to the K&N filter.

K&N Air Filter for Cold Air Pipe in RH Wheel Well

K&N Air Filter for Cold Air Pipe in RH Wheel Well

 

MK2 Cruise Control

Rostra Cruise Controlcruise-control-installation-disclaimer-001 

Components

I installed an Audiovox CCS-100 Cruise Control system on my Healey and found it to be a useful modification. I am over six feet tall and the seating position in British cars can be uncomfortable on long drives. The cruise control makes those trips a bit more relaxing and enjoyable. 

Rostra Precision Controls, Inc. manufacturers the cruise control system I am using in the Jaguar MK2. Many of the same components of Rostra’s system have evolved from the earlier version marketed by Audiovox. The earlier iteration worked on a vacuum servo while the current version by Rostra uses all electronic components. Rostra also manufactures a number of other automotive electronic devices such as Bluetooth systems, rear cameras and etc. The company is located in North Carolina and this is their website: http://www.rostra.com. Rostra does not sell directly, but they have many other vendors selling their products such as Summit Racing and many others.

There are a number of components in the cruise control system. These include:

Part #250-1223: The Global Cruise Module Assembly includes the universal Global Cruise servo motor, throttle cable, universal mounting brackets, wiring harness and hardware package for making electrical and throttle control connections. The servo motor mounts in the vehicle’s engine bay.

Rostra 250-1223 Servo

Rostra 250-1223 Servo

These are the directions provided with the Global Cruise Module:rostra-global-cruise-250-1223-instruction-manual

Part #250-4165: includes the speed signal generator with sensor, magnet and strap.

Universal Magnet Speed Signal Generator

Universal Magnet Speed Signal Generator

Cars more modern than the 64 Jaguar equipped with electronic speed signal (VSS) capability don’t require a magnetic sensor, but in the analog world of the MK2, a magnet is secured to the propshaft and the sensor is located in close proximity to measure revolutions or pulses per mile. These are the directions provided with the Universal Magnet Speed Signal Generator kit: rostra-installation-of-the-road-speed-sensormagnets-pick-up-coil

Part #250-4382: is a pre-wired five pin relay to compensate for the use of LED brake lighting. 

Relay Package

Relay Package

While the included primary wiring harness of the Global Cruise system includes wire leads meant to be attached to both the ‘hot’ and ‘cold’ sides of the brake pedal sensor to disengage the cruise control when the brake pedal is depressed, the proper ground signal is no longer present when a vehicle has been outfitted with LED lighting accessories such as LED brake lights. In a case like this, a 5-prong automotive relay must be used to provide the ground signal to cancel the cruise control once engaged. A MK2 owner using original incandescent light bulbs wouldn’t need this relay, but I have converted my lights to LEDs so this addition is required. These are the directions provided with the pre-wired 5 pin relay: rostra-250-4382-5-wire-relay-wiring-diagram

Part #250-3592: is the dash mounted control switch that includes a small LED light that illuminates when the cruise is engaged. An otherwise identical control switch, but without the engagement light is also available and is part #250-3593. I am using #3592 that also requires an additional 5 pin relay. I am not mounting the switch on the dash, as I am “hiding” my switch in the modified center console where the ash tray was originally located.

Universal Dash Mount Switch

Universal Dash Mount Switch

These are the directions provided with the control switch: rostra-dashmount-installation-instruction

Installation

Step one for me was to set the electronic switches in the global cruise module. There are a total of twelve switches with “On/Off” settings. Rostra encourages beginning the installation with the factory settings and then modifying the settings based on individual applications.

rostra global cruise control module settings

rostra global cruise control module settings

Global Cruise Switches

Global Cruise Switches

The twelve switches configure the control module for the type of car in which the system is being installed.

Switches #1 and #2 are for sensitivity or gain. Rostra’s directions state the following: Gain is how the cruise reacts to road conditions and motor size. Always start at Mid gain. If vehicle surges, change gain. For a fast surge, switch to a low or extra low gain setting if needed to tune the cruise. If there is a slow surge, switch to high gain. Therefore, I will initially set switch #1 to “OFF” and switch #2 to “ON.”

Switches#3 through #6 are for the pulses for minute. I assume (always dangerous) that the MK2 will probably have about 3,000 to 3,500 rpms at 60 mph therefore, I will initially set switch #3 to “ON,” switch #4 to “OFF,” switch #5 to “OFF,” and switch #6 to “OFF.”

Switches #7 through #9 are for the engine set-up (cylinders). Rostra’s directions state the following: Engine/Setup timer is how fast the cruise retracts the cable at onset. Always start at low. If vehicle drops below set speed but then recovers, switch to a high or extra high if set speed is not acceptable. Of course the Jaguar MK2 3.8 is a 6 cylinder engine therefore, I will initially set switch #7 to “OFF,” switch #8 to “ON,” and switch #9 to “OFF.”

Switch #10 is for the input source – Sine Wave or Square Wave. The Jaguar MK2 must use the magnet kit as the pulse indicator and as the chart above indicates, switch #10 is set to the Sine Wave Input or “OFF.”

Switch #11 is for the transmission type – manual or automatic. I have a manual gearbox in my MK2 therefore, I will set switch #11 to “OFF.”

Switch #12 is for the type of control switch. Rostra’s directions state the following: Your control switch is an Open Circuit Control Switch if: Its Rostra part number is 250-3592 (among others). I am using the dash panel control switch #250-3592, therefore in keeping with the table above switch #12 is set to “OFF.”

In summary:

#1  OFF

#2  ON

#3  ON

#4  OFF

#5  OFF

#6  OFF

#7  OFF

#8  ON

#9  OFF

#10 OFF

#11 OFF

#12 OFF 

Global Cruise Module Mounting

The Rostra instructions indicate that the Module should NOT be mounted in the following areas

* Under the fender.
* Under the vehicle.
* Directly to the engine.
* With the cable pointed down.
* Near sharp, hot or moving objects.
* Near ignition coil [No closer than 10″]
* In the passenger compartment (Noise).

The module needs to be mounted in a location that will provide sufficient “reach” for the module’s throttle control cable to link to the carburetor throttle linkage. A fairly heavy duty bracket is provided to mount the module to the car and it can be mounted in one of two orientations:

Cruise Control Module and Mounting Bracket

Cruise Control Module and Mounting Bracket

My battery is relocated to the boot to accommodate the placement of the air conditioner evaporator on the RH firewall. I had enough clearance to mount the module under the evaporator. This location permitted me to hide the module as best I could.

Global Cruise Module with Mounting Bracket

Global Cruise Module with Mounting Bracket

Mounting Bracket

Mounting Bracket

Global Cruise Module Installed

Global Cruise Module Installed

Global Cruise Module Wiring

Because the Rostra kit is for universal applications, the wire runs in some cases are quite long and I decided to shorten a number of them which then effected some of the connectors that were used. There are also situations in which not all of the wiring provided is used.

My wiring diagram, tailored for my 1964 Jaguar MK2 application, is provided below. As the disclaimer at the top of this post indicates, the wiring description in this post journals what I did for my car. It is not my intention to describe what you should do for your car!rostra-cruise-control-wiring-for-jag-mk2-001

This is a link to the same wiring diagram as a pdf file rather than as a jpeg file.rostra-cruise-control-wiring-for-jag-mk2

The Rostra instructions for the Global Cruise Control Module indicate that the wiring emanating from the module needs to pass through a 3/4″ hole in the firewall. I already have an unused firewall port as seen in the image above, so I will use it for the wiring. I slid a firewall rubber grommet over the wiring harness to help seal the opening. The control module has a total of ten (10) wires, although the black and grey wires are spliced to create three black wires and two grey wires for a total of twelve (13) wires. The wires are “bundled” for routing through the firewall.

Bundle One: red/brown, yellow, black and green wires from the control module to a clear plastic female four pin connector. This connector is mated with a male four pin connector with four wires of the same colors. The red/brown, yellow and green wires are then routed to a male clear plastic flat four pin connector.

Flat Four Pin Connector from Global Control Module to Panel Switch

Flat Four Pin Connector from Global Control Module to Panel Switch

The black wire is routed to a male clear plastic two pin connector joining with a blue wire. These wires are not used in the system for the Jaguar. The black and blue wires are factory labeled as “to control switch six pin only.”

Red/Brown Wire – This wire is routed to a male clear plastic flat four pin connectorThis wire is routed to the “hot” side (constant 12+ volts) of the brake switch.

Bundle One Cruise Control Wires

Bundle One Cruise Control Wires

Bundle Two: violet, grey, and brown wires from the control module to a clear plastic female four pin connector.

Bundle Two Cruise Control Wires

Bundle Two Cruise Control Wires

Violet Wire – This wire is routed to the “cold” side of the brake switch (0 resistance when brake is not pressed, and 12+ volts or open resistance when the brake is pressed.

Black Wire – This wire is spliced to create two (2) black wires. One of the black wires is joined with a grey wire in a clear female plastic connector with a label entitled “optional signal generator.” The other black wire has a ring terminal connector on it and is attached to a ground connection on the chassis.

Yellow Wire – This wire joins with the 

Road Speed Sensor/Magnets and Pick-up Coil Installation

The Rostra instructions indicate that for rear wheel drive vehicles measuring distance traveled in miles per hour, one magnet should be used. Once I had the rear suspension in the car with the propshaft in the “normal” position I was able to install the speed sensor. 

First, I bolted the road speed pick up coil to the thinner bracket supplied in the kit using the 1/4″-20 x 1 1/2″ bolt and the stamped nut being careful to not over tighten the nut as too much torque will damage the coil.

Second, I positioned the bracket under the car so that the coil bolt head was 3/4″ plus or minus 1/4″ from the propshaft and no more that 12″ in back of the U-joint. The pick-up coil was positioned in the middle of the propshaft and mounting holes were marked on the floor underside. I then installed two nutserts in the floor and mounted the bracket with two #10 -24 x 1/2″ machine screws.

Positioning the pick-up coil and bracket

Pick-up coil and bracket mounted

Third, secured the magnet with the long plastic tie strap provided. The ribbed side of the strap is against the magnet and seated between the two ribs on the magnet casing. I then tightened the strap using a screwdriver against the clasp and pulled the strap with pliers. This requires some effort to get the strap tight enough to avoid slippage. As the instructions indicated, I then cut the excess strap flush to 1/16″ from the lock.

Pick-up Coil and Magnet on propshaft

Fourth, I then ran the blue and grey wires from the pick-up coil under the car and up through a rubber grommet in the gearbox tunnel. The wiring then travels under the center console and up and under the dash exiting the firewall and connecting to the clear two wire plastic connector. I temporarily left the blue and grey wires without a connector, but will add the black male connector and cover the wiring in a rubber tube upon final installation. The Grey wire connects to the grey wire near the control module and the blue wire connects to the blue wire. Both will be shortened at final installation as well.

Wiring from Pick-up Coil

Pick-up coil wiring to gearbox tunnel

Pick-up coil wiring exiting Gearbox Tunnel

Pick-up Coil Wiring to Global Cruise Control Module

The female connector with the grey and black wires is identified from the factory with a white label entitled “optional signal generator.”

Optional Signal Generator Connector

Optional Signal Generator Connector

 

Attaching the Cruise Cable from the Cruise Module to the Throttle

It is important for safety and proper operation to follow the instructions provided with the kit!

Because of its universal mounting applications, the Rostra kit includes numerous brackets and connectors. You end up using very few of the components that they provide. For the Jaguar 3.8 MK2, one needs to align the cable mounting and the Throttle Link Rod Assembly/Intermediate Throttle Lever.

Throttle Link Rod Assembly

Carb and Fuel Connections Schematic

I have “over-engineered” the bracket I fabricated for the cruise module cable, but I like to use existing holes/captive nuts and etc. whenever possible to avoid changes to the car’s body. In this case for the base of my bracket, I used two of the captive nuts available at the cover plate for the steering column on the RH side of the firewall since these are unused given that my car is LH drive. 

The second image below shows the bracket and cable installed although it is somewhat difficult to ascertain the components.

Rostra Crusie Module Cable Bracket

Rostra Cruise Module Cable Brackets Mounted

As can be seen in the image above a yellow-zinc bracket attaches to the black bracket I fabricated and this zinc bracket actually anchors the throttle cable with two securing nuts. The threads on the vinyl covered throttle cable are actually formed by turning the lock washer nut clockwise on the cable.

Cable Connection to the Jaguar Throttle Assembly

Cable Sheath Threading

Many different cable ends are available in the kit. I used the eyelet shown in the image below. It fit perfectly on the clevis pin used in the Jaguar throttle assembly.

Cruise Module Cable End Connections

Throttle Cable Travel – This is a very important step. Failure to determine throttle cable travel could cause damage to your vehicle and/or Global Cruise.

The throttle cable travel must be at least 41mm (1-5/8″). Length is added by using the beaded chain provided in the kit. As shown in the image above, bead connector coupling sleeves must be used over the connectors.

Cruise Control Cable-Clevis Pin Connection to Throttle