Chapter 74 Week Forty-Four October 15, 2007

With the engine in place, it was now time to complete the assembly of the various engine components, but first I installed the clutch slave cylinder with the push rod provided in the Smitty conversion kit. It went in without any problem and lined up perfectly. The clutch pedal seemed to work smoothly. The bleeder extension pipe was attached to the bracket I made to support the pipe. Bleeding the slave cylinder will now be a much easier job. Thanks again to Mr. Finespanner – Doug Reid.

Slave cylinder bleeder extension 2

Just to fill the holes and to prevent anything from dropping in unexpectedly I went ahead and loosely fit the NGK Spark Plugs BP6ES, stock number 7333.

To make installation a little easier I attached the gear reduction starter to the engine prior to installation in the car, and it was now time to hook up the wiring. I shortened the heavy duty starter cable that connects the solenoid and the starter and secured it to the starter with rubber insulation boots attached. Since my intention is to still rely on the original starting configuration, that is, using the external solenoid, I connected the small wire on the starter to the terminal post also used to connect the cable from the solenoid.

Starter

The installation of the breather pipe and hoses was next on my list. Since I will be taking off the rocker cover for valve gap adjustment once the engine is started, I left the clamp to the “T” connection on the cover loose. The inlet heater hose from the heater to the heater control tap on the motor. While in that location I went ahead and connected the tachometer cable to the tach drive housing.

Breather Pipe 2

Tach Cable to Drive Gear

Others have suggested the addition of a PCV valve connecting the breather “T” to the intake manifold to assist in minimizing oil pressure leaks. I bought a little kit from the British Car Specialists that included the valve, rubber piping and a connector for the intake manifold. It will be interesting to see if it does aid in respiration.

The oil gauge flexible hose was connected next. It connects to a fitting on the block and to the steel oil line that connects to the back of the oil pressure/water temperature gauge.

Oil Pressure Line

 

The exhaust headers were next to be installed. These are Phoenix headers and the full big bore exhaust system was sourced from AH Spares. The headers fit perfectly without any adjustments. I had them Jet-Hot coated in the sterling finish to keep them looking nice and to improve thermal qualities. Stainless steel flexible pipe (1 7/8”) was used to connect the headers to the stainless steel silencer and the big bore tail pipes. The front hanger bracket is in the wrong place for a BT7, so I made a custom spacer for that hanger. The rear hanger worked just fine. I was pleased with the final installation of the system.

Headers 1

Headers 3

Rear Hanger 2

Middle Hanger

 

Tail Pipes 2

I assembled the intake manifold, heat shield and carbs to the Bloody Beast. Those lower mounting nuts are not easy to access! The stainless steel flexible fuel lines were connected to the steel fuel line and to the two SUs. I had to pull everything off the engine when I realized that I had not yet attached the manifold fuel drain pipes!! As it turned out they are very close to the header pipes, but after checking with a few people who are more informed about such matters than me, I think I am comfortable leaving them as they are. They should have been installed along with the vacuum line BEFORE the rest of the engine components!!!!

Front fuel drain line

Engine from above

Engine from right

Engine LH view

Engine front view

Chapter 14 – Cleaning and Trial Fitting

August 26, 2003

Wiring 

Wiring Harness – Received the new wiring harness from British Wiring Inc. We ordered the main harness, horn wiring that we probably won’t need, light pigtails and the stator tube wiring. Everything looked good. Also ordered a special pliers for pushing the wiring bullet connectors into the rubber joints which will prove to be a real time saver.

After taking the harness through the firewall, the major components were separated to go down the two sides of the car. 

Flasher – First connected the three wires to the flasher – green, light green, and green/brown. 

Wiper Harness – Then connected the wiper harness with connectors and fed it through the firewall – black, black/green, and green. 

Dimmer Switch – The wires for the dimmer switch were then connected and fed through the top of the footbox and connected to the switch – blue/red, light blue, and blue/white.

Fuse Panel – Wiring was then connected from the harness to the fuse box. Three white wires to the lower left terminal; one heavy brown wire to the top left terminal; two brown/green wires to the upper right terminal; and five green wires to the lower right terminals.

Throttle Switch – The white and white/purple wires intended for the throttle switch will not be used so rubber connectors were placed on the ends to avoid contact with metal. The wires were tucked below the fuse box.

Boot Harness Extension – Six wires were then connected from the firewall harness to the harness that goes to the fuel pump and boot for the lights. The harness runs down the footbox insulation panel with two clips. The harness was clipped to the master cylinder box and then taken through the welded clip on the wheel well. 

Flasher Relay Box – Wires on the left side will then be connected to the flasher relay box including a black ground wire at the base of the box. 

Lights and Horns – The wires were routed to the front of the superstructure for the lights and the horns.

Voltage Regulator Box and Brake Light Switch – The harness was also routed down the right side, by the voltage box and down the right side to the brake light switch.

Wiring 3

Wiring 1

Wiring Fuse Block 2

Wiring 6

Wiring 8

Wiring 9

Wiring 12

September 9, 2003

Heater Vent Doors – Installed the left and right heater outlet vent door assemblies.

Air Vents 1

Air Vents 2

Bump Boxes – Installed painted bump boxes. Secured threaded horn mounting plates.

Bump Box Painted 1

Steering column bracket tapped plate

Parcel Tray and Fascia Brackets – Installed parcel tray support bracket and fascia support brace.

Parcel Tray Brace

Fascia Brace

Steering Column Steady Bracket – Installed steering column steady bracket, but unclear about which windscreen post hole it should mount to – will check it out later.

Steering support Brace

Steering Column Steady Bracket 2

Bonnet Prop Rod  and Brake Reservoir Brackets – Installed bonnet prop rod bracket, pivot, and the brake reservoir mounting bracket.

Brake Reservoir Bracket

Bonnet Rod Bracket

Bonnet safety catch and prop rod bracket

Bonnet Latch Bracket and Release Mechanism – Assembled and installed the bonnet latch/release mechanism.

Bonnet Catch painted 4

Bonnet Catch painted 3

Bonnet Catch painted 2

September 13, 2003

Wiring Continued

Battery Cable – Installed the battery cable ordered from British Car Specialists. The cable set was expensive, but of high quality. Installed rubber grommets in boot kick panel wall. Clip 1 was attached to the right bump box (Should install the cable on the box before it is mounted on the body.) Clip 2 was attached to the kick panel above the shock mounting bracket. The cable was then routed inside of the right frame rail.

Battery Cable 2

Battery Cable 1

Battery Cable 3

Battery Cable 4

Clip 3 and clip 4 were located at the back of the cruciform. Clip 5 was located at the front of the cruciform near the gearbox mounting bracket. Clip 6 was located on the frame rail about 6” from the ground cable mounting. Clip 7 was mounted on the right footbox wall with the cable directed to the right terminal of the starter solenoid. The Cable from the starter to the left terminal on the solenoid was then secured. The white/red stripe wire fastened to the small terminal on the solenoid. Three “cert” nuts need to be installed – two for the solenoid and one for the clip on the footbox.

Battery Cable 5

Battery Cable 6

Battery Cable 8

Battery Cable 9

Next, the rear lights harness was installed. Clip 1 was secured at the right upper fuel pump bracket. Clip 2 was secured on the kick panel to the left of the pump. Clip 3 was attached to the left bump box and the wiring was threaded through the boot wall. The green wire will connect to the fuel gauge sending unit. Metal tabs were fabricated from clips and mounted on the floorboard of the boot.

Single bullet connectors were used to join the main harness to the rear light harness and link the white/black wire, and the white/purple wire. The red wires were connected using a double rubber connector. Clips 3 and 4 were mounted to the rear rail. The long separate white/black wire was also routed through and it connected to the single screw terminal on the battery on/off switch. Black ground wires were connected to the screw on each clip.

Boot Wiring 1

Boot Wiring 2

Boot Wiring 3

Boot Wiring 6

Boot Wiring 4

Boot Wiring 5

 

Body Panels and Trim

Body Panels and Trim

Cover and Blanking Plates

Of course, there are many large and small components that comprise the finished body of the MK2. The clean-up and preparation of the body and its primary parts is addressed in the “Body Prep” post. However, I have also begun to prepare some of the smaller components such as the covers or blanking plates for the firewall and under-dash interior of the car. The Jag was assembled for home and foreign markets so holes were located in the body superstructure to accommodate either LH or RH steering. Blanking plates were fastened over the holes not used. For example, the image below shows the Cover Plate Over Steering Column Cut-out on Centre Dash as well as the Headlamp Dipper Switch Blanking Plate. The Cover Plate for the Steering Column is pop riveted to the body from the interior side of the firewall, while the Dipper Switch Plate is secured from the engine side of the firewall with two #10″- 32 x 1/2″ hex head bolts, nuts and shakeproof washers. The nuts are located on the engine side of the firewall with bolt heads on the interior side. The image shows socket bolts, but they will be replaced.

Steering Wheel Shaft & Dip Switch Blanking Plates

Steering Wheel Shaft & Dip Switch Blanking Plates

In early July, 2014 I began trial fitting many components. This was motivated by the trial installation of the RetroAir air conditioning kit. The dip switch blanking plate hardly required trial fitting, but you have to start somewhere. I did not trial fit the Steering Wheel Blanking plate since it required riveting to install and I did not want to drill out the rivets again.

Dip Switch Blanking Plate Trial Fitting

Dip Switch Blanking Plate Trial Fitting

Dip Switch Blanking Plate Trial Fitting - Interior View

Dip Switch Blanking Plate Trial Fitting – Interior View

I made a closed cell foam gasket for the steering column blanking plate and installed it in the firewall/floor with screws temporarily. I will rivet it to the firewall/floor after the body is painted.

Foam gasket for Steering column blanking plate

Foam gasket for Steering column blanking plate

RH Steering Column Blanking Plate Installed

The Cover Plate Over Pedal Mounting Cut-out on Centre Dash

I will not be using the Cover Plate since I am air conditioning my car and the Blower mounts in this location with a new face plate.

The cover plate uses the same gasket as used on the master cylinder housing. It is secured to the firewall with four 1/4″ – 28 x 1/2″ hex head bolts with plane and shakeproof washers and 1/4″ -28 nuts.

Cover Plate Over Pedal Mounting Cut-out on Centre Dash

Cover Plate Over Pedal Mounting Cut-out on Centre Dash

Striker Plate for Bonnet Catch

I media blasted the striker plate and will have it zinc plated. Not sure that it will matter, but I drilled a small hole in the left front corner (from the driver’s seat) to relocate the plate when the time comes. The plate is secured to the car and to the other catch components with two two 1/4″ – 28 x 3/4″ hex head bolts.

Striker Plate

Striker Plate Clean

Bonnet Catch Base Plate, Catch Plate and Spring

These three pieces of the bonnet catch mechanism were media blasted  and will be zinc plated.

Bonnet Catch Components

Bonnet Catch Components

Bonnet Catch Components

Bonnet Striker & Pin

This assembly consists of the striker pin or peg, three retaining washers, a spring, and a nut to adjust the compression of the spring. The assembly mounts to the bonnet with the threaded end of the peg which is 7/16″ – 20. The large washer was bent and I don’t know if that is intentional or not. I could not find new components from the usual vendors so I blasted these pieces and painted them with POR-15 to prevent future rusting.

Bonnet Striker Pin Assembly

Bonnet Striker Pin Assembly

Safety Hook for Bonnet Catch

The safety hook for bonnet catch is comprised of the hook, tension spring, pivot pin, flat washer and split pin. I media blasted these components and while as original they were painted body color, I had the safety hook chromed and the other components cad plated.

Safety Hook

Safety Hook

Safety Hook

 

Safety Hook Components Cleaned

Safety Hook Components Cleaned

Safety Hook for Bonnet Catch

Safety Hook for Bonnet Catch

Safety Hook for Bonnet Catch

Safety Hook for Bonnet Catch

Adaptor Plate Assembly for Solenoid and Solenoid Weather Protection Flange

The starter solenoid and its mounting bracket are fastened to the Adaptor Plate with two #10 – 32 x 1/2″ machine screws and shake proof washers. The Assembly is the mounted to the firewall through the Weather Protection Flange with three 1/4″ – 28 x 1/2″ hex head bolts and shakeproof washers.

Solenoid Mounting

Solenoid Mounting

Solenoid Mounting

Trial fitting of the Starter Solenoid Bracket and Weather Protection Flange.

Adaptor Plate Assembly for Solenoid and Solenoid Weather Protection Flange

Adaptor Plate Assembly for Solenoid and Solenoid Weather Protection Flange

Adaptor Plate Assembly for Solenoid and Solenoid Weather Protection Flange

Adaptor Plate Assembly for Solenoid and Solenoid Weather Protection Flange

 

Access Panel for Radiator Grille 

A small panel is provided below the chrome grille to access its the fixing points to the body. As with most of the car, this panel was heavily coated with undercoating. I removed the undercoating, blasted the piece and treated it with rust preventative for painting later. The panel is secured to the body with two #10 -32 x 1/2″ slotted machine screws.

Access Panel

Access Panel

 

Access Panel for Radiator Grille

Access Panel for Radiator Grille

LH Valance

Getting rid of heat build up under the bonnet is a real problem with the MK2 Jags. I am adding air conditioning that will probably further contribute to the heat issue. Following the lead of some others I decided to remove a lower section of the LH engine bay valance hoping that the opening would help some of the heat escape a little more efficiently. I ordered some stainless wire cloth from McMaster-Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-wire-mesh/=xas1n5 that has four openings per inch. The cloth is welded not crimped to form the mesh. The idea is that the stainless wire cloth will allow the heat escape but will also keep any road debris from entering the engine bay.

LH Valance Area to be Removed

LH Valance Area to be Removed

LH Valance Opening for Cooling

LH Valance Opening for Cooling

It was a little challenge to get the screen to fit because of the curvature of the sides of the valance opening. I used 1/8″ x 1/2″ steel to frame the mesh cloth and welded the corners. Nut sets were used to fasten the frame to the body so that the screen could be removed for cleaning from the wheel well.

I intentionally left a small gap along the lower edge so that water and grime would not be trapped between the screen and the body. I will have the screen painted body color before final installation.

Fabricated Ventialtion Screen

Fabricated Ventialtion Screen

Fabricated Ventialtion Screen

Fabricated Ventialtion Screen

LH Valance Ventilation Screen in Place Inside

LH Valance Ventilation Screen in Place Inside

LH Valance Ventilation Screen in Place Outside

LH Valance Ventilation Screen in Place Outside

 

 

Pulling the Engine for Minor Repairs

July 2006 Bugeye It is time to fix some of the problems we have lived with for a while and to make a few improvements. The oil leak we caused when we failed to seal the oil sump properly, the gear grinding in 2nd and 3rdin the gearbox, jet coating the headers among other things will improve the car for the future. These improvements require pulling the engine. We bought a cherry picker and an Oberg tilt lift rather than continuing to rent at $45 a pop. The following details the process to get ready to lift out the engine: Disconnected the battery positive lead from the terminal. Drained the engine oil, tried the gearbox, but couldn’t get the plug out so will return to that. Disconnected the ground strap and removed the two gearbox mounting bolts from the bottom of the car.

ground strap

Ground Strap

Gearbox Mount Bolts

Gearbox Mount Bolts

Disconnected the fuel line at the carbs and pulled out of the way, and disconnected the temperature sensor from the head.

Fuel Line

Fuel Line

Temperature Sensor

Temperature Sensor

Disconnected the oil pressure gauge line and the oil feed line from the engine block, and disconnected the cable from the starter solenoid to the starter.

Solenoid Connection

Solenoid Connection

Oil Temp Connection

Oil Temp Connection

Unsnapped the plastic connector for the white/black line to the distributor from the electronic ignition device, and disconnected the plastic terminal (3 wires) to the alternator.

Ignition Wiring

Ignition Wiring

Alternator Wiring

Alternator Wiring

Disconnected the high tension line from the distributor to the coil. Disconnected the short hot water hose from the hot water valve control on the head and then the longer line on the other side of the engine to the copper tube. It is easier to put the clamp on the hose/copper pipe when the copper pipe clips are loose from the manifold.

Water Valve

Water Valve

Heater Hose

Heater Hose

Disconnected the throttle cable at the carb linkage and pulled it out of the way, and then also disconnected the choke cable at the carb.

Throttle Cable

Throttle Cable

Choke Connection

Choke Connection

Disconnected the fitting at the slave cylinder (and got brake fluid everywhere).

Fuel Drain Line

Fuel Drain Line

 

Intake Manifold

Intake Manifold

 
 
 
 
 
Very Ugly Header

Very Ugly Header

Removed the manifold brass nuts from the head and lifted the intake manifold and carbs free of the engine. The carb drain lines tied together with plastic straps will need to be rerouted to the retainer clips upon installation again. The headers will not come out of the engine bay until the engine is pulled or the heater is removed. Need to set the headers in place prior to the engine install.

Exhaust Clamps

Exhaust Clamps

Exhaust Mount

Exhaust Mount

 
 
 
Exhaust Clamp

Exhaust Clamp

Removed four Phillips screws attaching the shift boot to the gearbox tunnel, the shifter knob, and removed two bolts on each side of the tunnel securing the gearbox bracket to the car. Use of the offset wrench made this an easier job.

Shifter Trim Ring

Shifter Trim Ring

Gearbox Rear Mount

Gearbox Rear Mount

 

Shifter Connection

Shifter Connection

Loosened the right hand motor mount from the car so that it will lift free with the engine, but will not completely disconnect until the engine lift has the pressure off of the mounts. Loosened the screws to the engine at the mount on the left side of the car. The left mount will stay in the car.

Removed the cardboard heater hose to have it out of the way from the engine when it is lifted.

Connected the Lift Chain to the Rocker Shaft mounting studs and lifted the engine from the car.