Voltage regulator | Valve Chatter

August 26, 2003

Wiring

Wiring Harness – Received the new wiring harness from British Wiring Inc. We ordered the main harness, horn wiring that we probably won’t need, light pigtails and the stator tube wiring. Everything looked good. Also ordered a special pliers for pushing the wiring bullet connectors into the rubber joints which will prove to be a real time saver.

After taking the harness through the firewall, the major components were separated to go down the two sides of the car.

Flasher – First connected the three wires to the flasher – green, light green, and green/brown.

Wiper Harness – Then connected the wiper harness with connectors and fed it through the firewall – black, black/green, and green.

Dimmer Switch – The wires for the dimmer switch were then connected and fed through the top of the footbox and connected to the switch – blue/red, light blue, and blue/white.

Fuse Panel – Wiring was then connected from the harness to the fuse box. Three white wires to the lower left terminal; one heavy brown wire to the top left terminal; two brown/green wires to the upper right terminal; and five green wires to the lower right terminals.

Throttle Switch – The white and white/purple wires intended for the throttle switch will not be used so rubber connectors were placed on the ends to avoid contact with metal. The wires were tucked below the fuse box.

Boot Harness Extension – Six wires were then connected from the firewall harness to the harness that goes to the fuel pump and boot for the lights. The harness runs down the footbox insulation panel with two clips. The harness was clipped to the master cylinder box and then taken through the welded clip on the wheel well.

Flasher Relay Box – Wires on the left side will then be connected to the flasher relay box including a black ground wire at the base of the box.

Lights and Horns – The wires were routed to the front of the superstructure for the lights and the horns.

Voltage Regulator Box and Brake Light Switch – The harness was also routed down the right side, by the voltage box and down the right side to the brake light switch.

Wiring 3

Wiring 1

Wiring Fuse Block 2

Wiring 6

Wiring 8

Wiring 9

Wiring 12

September 9, 2003

Heater Vent Doors – Installed the left and right heater outlet vent door assemblies.

Air Vents 1

Air Vents 2

Bump Boxes – Installed painted bump boxes. Secured threaded horn mounting plates.

Bump Box Painted 1

Steering column bracket tapped plate

Parcel Tray and Fascia Brackets – Installed parcel tray support bracket and fascia support brace.

Parcel Tray Brace

Fascia Brace

Steering Column Steady Bracket – Installed steering column steady bracket, but unclear about which windscreen post hole it should mount to – will check it out later.

Steering support Brace

Steering Column Steady Bracket 2

Bonnet Prop Rod and Brake Reservoir Brackets – Installed bonnet prop rod bracket, pivot, and the brake reservoir mounting bracket.

Brake Reservoir Bracket

Bonnet Rod Bracket

Bonnet safety catch and prop rod bracket

Bonnet Latch Bracket and Release Mechanism – Assembled and installed the bonnet latch/release mechanism.

Bonnet Catch painted 4

Bonnet Catch painted 3

Bonnet Catch painted 2

September 13, 2003

Wiring Continued

Battery Cable – Installed the battery cable ordered from British Car Specialists. The cable set was expensive, but of high quality. Installed rubber grommets in boot kick panel wall. Clip 1 was attached to the right bump box (Should install the cable on the box before it is mounted on the body.) Clip 2 was attached to the kick panel above the shock mounting bracket. The cable was then routed inside of the right frame rail.

Battery Cable 2

Battery Cable 1

Battery Cable 3

Battery Cable 4

Clip 3 and clip 4 were located at the back of the cruciform. Clip 5 was located at the front of the cruciform near the gearbox mounting bracket. Clip 6 was located on the frame rail about 6” from the ground cable mounting. Clip 7 was mounted on the right footbox wall with the cable directed to the right terminal of the starter solenoid. The Cable from the starter to the left terminal on the solenoid was then secured. The white/red stripe wire fastened to the small terminal on the solenoid. Three “cert” nuts need to be installed – two for the solenoid and one for the clip on the footbox.

Battery Cable 5

Battery Cable 6

Battery Cable 8

Battery Cable 9

Next, the rear lights harness was installed. Clip 1 was secured at the right upper fuel pump bracket. Clip 2 was secured on the kick panel to the left of the pump. Clip 3 was attached to the left bump box and the wiring was threaded through the boot wall. The green wire will connect to the fuel gauge sending unit. Metal tabs were fabricated from clips and mounted on the floorboard of the boot.

Single bullet connectors were used to join the main harness to the rear light harness and link the white/black wire, and the white/purple wire. The red wires were connected using a double rubber connector. Clips 3 and 4 were mounted to the rear rail. The long separate white/black wire was also routed through and it connected to the single screw terminal on the battery on/off switch. Black ground wires were connected to the screw on each clip.

Boot Wiring 1

Boot Wiring 2

Boot Wiring 3

Boot Wiring 6

Boot Wiring 4

Boot Wiring 5

August 17, 2002

Brake and Clutch Master Cylinders – Loosened lines from cylinders. The brake line from the master cylinder to the 4 way junction has 3 clips and fasteners to the union facing the master cylinder (left side of the car). The clutch line also has three clips: 1 by the solenoid, and 2 on the firewall (high).

Loosen the 1/2” bolts securing the clutch master cylinder. Pull the cotter pin on the master cylinder shaft to the pedal. Remove the master cylinder. Same procedure for the brake master cylinder. There are aluminum spacers on the top of each master cylinder between the cylinder and the body.

Master Cylinders

Brake Pipe Junction 1

Pedal Box Connections

Pedal Box Bolts

Pedal Box (Pedal Lever Bracket)

Loosen two 1/2” bolts to remove pedal box mechanism. The box is painted black. Unit will then drop out.

Pedal Box 1

Pedal Box 2

Headlamp Dip Switch Wiring – Pulled the wiring through the pedal box with rubber grommet.

Dipper switch wiring

Dip Switch Wiring

Bulkhead Fresh Air Flange – Removed three phillips head screws securing the fresh air hose flange. Removed flange.

Air Tube Mounting

Brake Lines

The Brake Lines – fittings were loosened at the 4 way brake union to left front wheel – 2 clips at front cross bar to the front bottom union facing front of car at the junction. Removed right front brake line from junction to right wheel – top union on junction facing front of the car.

LF Brake Lines

Front Center Brake Lines

Brake Junction

Brake Junction connections

Brake Junction Fitting

Brake Junction 3

Brake 4 Way Union & Pressure Switch – Removed the Union by loosening one 7/16” bolt to frame. Two wires must be disconnected. Green goes to terminal closest to the engine. The green with pink stripe wire goes to the terminal closest to the frame. One clip holds wiring harness extension to the brake junction located just above the junction mounting post.

Brake Pressure Switch Wiring

Master Cylinder Sealing Plate (blanking) – Removed the Plate on the right side of the car. Four Phillips head sheet metal screws. The plate had tar paper on back to seal it. Four clip nuts are used to hold the screws.

Right Sealing Plate

Right Sealing Plate 3

Right Sealing Plate 2

Starter Solenoid.

Disconnected the wiring for the starter solenoid. The terminal closest to the engine is for the high tension line from the battery. The terminal closest to the body is or the cable to the starter and the brown ignition wire. The white wire with the red stripe goes to the terminal on top.

Starter Solenoid Wiring

Starter Solenoid 2

Starter Solenoid connections 2 & Clutch Pipe Clip

Blanking Bolts – Removed 2 blanking bolts in upper right footwell. Remove two blanking bolts in engine compartment to frame.

Right blanking bolts

Right footwell Blanking Bolts

Steering Wheel Blanking Plate – Removed the blanking plate on right side of car. Located behind the asbestos insulation. Four sheet metal screws.

Slave Cylinder

Loosened one nut where hydraulic hose joins frame.

Slave Cylinder connection to Frame Clip

Slave Cylinder Mounting with Clip and shake proof washer

Fuel Line – Loosened the fuel line from the carb feed line and the fuel pump. Three to four clips run along the frame rail from carbs to fuel pump.

Wiring Harness – Carefully pulled the wiring harness from front firewall to the rear of the car. Approximately 10 screws through clips on frame. Also two screws and clips through asbestos insulation securing the harness.

Right wiring clamp

Voltage Box wiring

Wiring Clamps on Insulation 3

Firewall wiring clamp

Overdrive switch – Wiring connections: Left terminal – white/purple stripe. Middle terminal – 2 white/green stripe wires. Right terminal – 2 solid white wires. Bottom terminal – black wire from harness.

Firewall wiring harness

Overdrive relay

Relay wiring

Throttle Switch – Bottom terminal – white/ purple stripe wire. Top terminal – White/green stripe wire. See above.

Fuse Block – After disconnecting the wiring to the block, two #10 machine screws were loosened to release the block from the firewall.

Fuse Block wiring

Fuse Block and relay

Voltage Regulator – Five terminals. Far left form driver’s perspective, labeled #1 with far left #5. 1 – black ground from adjacent screw. 2 – 2 solid yellow wires. 3 – 1 yellow/green stripe wire. 4 – 2 solid brown wires. 5 – 1 large brown/blue stripe wire. Note that there are three black ground wires to the adjacent firewall screw.

Voltage Box wiring

Voltage Box

Voltage Box (2)

Number Identification Plates – from the firewall. Both are secured with small chrome sheet metal screws.

ID Plates 3

ID Plate 1

ID Plate 2

Throttle Linkage – Four 7/16” bolts holding shaft under tunnel. Very hard to get to. Disconnect at pedal linkage. Remove accelerator pedal – two large pozi-drive screws. Remove throttle shaft locator collar from engine compartment wall, two screws and nuts.