Assorted Fuel System Modifications

Fuel Pump and Fuel Lines

Fuel Pump and Fuel Lines

The Original Fuel System

The fuel system consists of the fuel tank, the fuel pump, the carburetters and the air cleaners. The original fuel system included the following: Fuel tank: 14.4 U.S. gallon steel tank Fuel pump: SU electric Carburetters: Twin 1 3/4” semi-downdraft HD6 Air Cleaners: Coopers “pancake” type.

 Modified Fuel System

Aluminum Fuel Tank

I replaced the steel tank with an aluminum version sourced from Hemphill’s Healey Haven in Maryland.

Fuel tank aluminum

Aluminum Fule Tank

Solid State SU Fuel Pump

I used the original mounting bracket, but replaced the pump with a solid state version of the original fuel pump. The pump was supplied by Burlen in the U.K.

Solid State Fuel Pump

Solid State Fuel Pump

 Redundant Fuel Pump

I expected the solid state unit to perform better than the original with its “points,” but I still remember problems with the original pump while I was driving the car in college. I would give it a few good “whacks,” and it would start pumping again. I had read about installing a redundant pump either parallel or in-line to avoid dead fuel pump problems. I mounted the auxiliary pump on the rear boot wall and ran it in-line with the SU. The restoration blog explains the installation. I used a Master E8016S electric pump available from Autozone. I installed a toggle switch on a small switch panel under the wiper motor that controls the fuel pumps. At center, neither pump is activated (a great anti-theft device); a throw upward activates the SU pump, and a throw downward activates the Master Pump. The pumps can be switched on the fly.

Master Fuel Pump

Master Fuel Pump

 

Aux fuel pump

Auxiliary Fuel Pump Installed

Toggle Switch Panel

Toggle Switch Panel

Fuel Gauge Dampener

Every Healey owner experiences the erratic swings of the fuel gauge needle. Zims Autotechnik, www.allzim.com , 1804 Reliance Parkway, Bedford, TX 76021, 800-356-2964, sells a little electronic device (see image to the right) that mitigates the needle swing. I believe it was originally conceived for the Porsche 356. Steve Gerow shared this little tip. I ordered one, installed it in a few minutes and sure enough it works! $19.95 for the part. Fuel Gauge Dampener instructions.JPG are provided, but Steve’s photo tells the whole story!

Fuel Gauge Dampener

Fuel Gauge Dampener

 

Carburetters

I replaced the original HD6 SU carbs with 2″ HD8s to boost HP a bit. I purchased these from someone on the Healey list and had them rebuilt by Joe Curto. I was pleased with his results. The older used units polished nicely. Using the HD8s did require switching to a later intake manifold from a BJ8 as well, to take advantage of the 2″ diameter carbs.

HD8 Carbs

HD8 Carbs

Carburetter Choke

The choke mechanism for the BJ8 carbs is a dual line system as opposed to the single cable used with the original HD6 carbs. So, I ordered the HD8 choke bracket and cabling and installed it in the Bloody Beast.

Choke Firewall Bracket

Choke Firewall Bracket

Air Cleaners

In 2008 when I restored my car, I decided to replace the original pancake Cooper air cleaners and use the “itg” competition foam air cleaner available from Denis Welch. The air cleaner is a single unit working with both carburetors. For appearances, I painted the red plastic body of the air cleaner a gloss black.

However, recently, as part of my “ten-year renewal” process I have moved away from the ITG filter and now use twin ram pipes with individual trumpet filters. This change is explained in this post: https://valvechatter.com/?p=12574

ITG Air Cleaner

ITG Air Cleaner

Aston Quick Release Fuel Filler Cap

I like the looks of the racing heritage Aston cap that also has its practical ease of use advantage. To install, it is necessary to cut off the original fuel filler pipe and solder a threaded ring onto the pipe. The cap then screws onto the collar. It gives a very nice finish to the fuel system!

Aston threaded collar

Aston threaded collar

Aston Fuel Filler Cap

Aston Fuel Filler Cap

 

Throttle Cable Modification

Throttle Cable Modification

The information below was originally posted in 2009 and modified in 2014. I have since updated how my throttle cable system works (2020) and information on the update is found in a post in my ten-year renewal blog. For example, I no longer us the Denis Welch intake manifold cable bracket. I decided to leave the entry below to provide the reader with history of the progression of this conversion process. This link will direct you to my latest post on the subject. https://valvechatter.com/?p=10123

Owning a Austin-Healey “Bugeye” Sprite always made me wonder about the somewhat arcane mechanical throttle linkage system in my BT7. The Bugeye has a very simple accelerator control system whereby the accelerator pedal and the carburetors are connected via a cable. This provides a direct and immediately responsive system assuming that the carburetor throttle shafts and components are in good condition. Having great respect for DMH and all that he did, I was hesitant to convert my Big Healey accelerator controls to a cable approach. I quizzed all of the Healey experts I could think of, and no one could give me a satisfactory explanation for the mechanical linkage. I suppose the most common response was “the linkage must have been around and used on other cars, so it was cheap to adopt.”

In 2005, my wife and I attended the Conclave held in Winston Salem, NC. There I saw John Trifari’s BN1 that had a throttle cable installation.

John Trifari Throttle Cable 1

John Trifari Throttle Cable 1

John Trifari Throttle Cable 2

John Trifari Throttle Cable 2

About that same time I was emailing back and forth with Jack Brashear a Healey owner from Arkansas who had also come up with a throttle cable approach to accelerator controls in his Healey. Jack did not modify anything at the accelerator pedal inside the interior, choosing instead to use a modified pedal shaft lever as shown in the image below. I will explain the lever modification a little later in this article. Both John and Jack used a little fitting that I believe came from an MGB through which the cable routes at the top of the driver’s footbox.

Jack Brashear Throttle Cable Install

Jack Brashear Throttle Cable Install

Jack Brashear Throttle Cable Install

Jack Brashear Throttle Cable Install

Also in 2005, I attended several of the races in the Australian/U.S. Healey Challenge series. Many of the Aussie’s cars had throttle cables instead of the mechanical linkage. Of course, the Australian cars are RH drive so the design is somewhat different (actually easier) than for LH drive cars. I noticed too that the Australian cars almost always incorporated some type of throttle stop mechanism. I suppose especially important in a race car.

Australian Racer with Throttle Cable and Throttle Stop

Australian Racer with Throttle Cable and Throttle Stop

These examples and others that I came across about the same time convinced me that the use of a cable to control accelerator action to the carburetors was the approach that I wanted to take. However, everything that I had witnessed first hand was typically one-off, and custom designed, and I wondered if there was an easier route to my end game. I started checking vendors.

Cape International had a conversion kit http://www.cape-international.com/capeshop.php?parttypes=19&thepart=TC2# I actually tried this kit but wasn’t thrilled with it. I am sure it has been installed successfully in many cars, it just wasn’t my cup of tea.

Cape International Throttle Cable Kit

DMD from Australia also made a conversion kit. It is now available (as of August, 2014) from The Healey Factory. http://www.healeyfactory.com.au/dmd/components/ I did not personally try the DMD kit.

The Healey Factory DMD Throttle Cable Kit

I began to work on my own throttle cable kit using ideas I had seen on other cars or in the kits available from the vendors named. The narrative that follows chronicles my installation. It does not describe a right or wrong approach – it is just my approach. In fact, I am sure that others can improve upon my design. Comments and suggestions are certainly welcome.

Installation Disclaimer

Accelerator Pedal Swing Arm Lever

I decided to modify the throttle swing arm lever used on a BJ8 to suit my needs. I like this one better than the BT7 swing arm as it is a bit more substantial and in my view seemed a little less likely to slip on the pedal shaft once tightened. I have now used this arrangement since 2009 including an 8,000 mile cross-country trip without any problems. Jack Brashear suggested lengthening the arm so that it would swing perfectly in line with the firewall cable bracket and I followed his lead.  I have headers on my car and a Toyota Supra Five-speed (not overdrive components on the firewall) so if the reader is planning a modification to the lever just make sure you have sufficient room.  The following diagram illustrates the modification:

Throttle Swing Arm Lever Modification

Throttle Swing Arm Lever Modification

 

Rose Throttle lever modified 1

Rose Throttle lever modified 1

Rose Throttle lever modified 2

Rose Throttle lever modified 2

Firewall Bracket

I then made an “L” shaped bracket to mount to the firewall.  I used the welded nut on the firewall (see above) for one of the securing points and drilled a hole for a nut cert for the top securing point. My final bracket looks slightly different than this one, but this is the best image I have to illustrate the mounting of the bracket to the firewall – note that it mounts through the firewall insulation panel.

Rose Firewall Throttle Bracket Version 1 - Not Final

Rose Firewall Throttle Bracket Version 1 – Not Final

The image below is not from my car but it shows a bracket similar to mine mounted on the firewall. I apologize that I do not know who owns this car. I just snapped the image at a show.

Firewall Throttle Cable Bracket - Unknown Owner

Firewall Throttle Cable Bracket – Unknown Owner

The following image is of my car and shows the relationship between the swing arm lever and the firewall bracket with the cable.

Relationship of Swing Arm Lever to Firewall Bracket and Cable

Relationship of Swing Arm Lever to Firewall Bracket and Cable

 

Carburator/Manifold Bracket

I tried numerous approaches to fabricating a bracket to get the cable to the right place to control the carburetor throttle shaft lever. You must decide if you want the cable to run down from the firewall, below the carbs, and up to the carburetor throttle shaft lever, or alternatively, do you want the cable to run up and over the carbs and manifolds? With my approach I chose to have it do the latter. It can be done either way.

About the time I was trying to figure all of this out, Denis Welch came out with a LH drive throttle cable conversion kit that in my view is very well done. It contains a cast aluminum bracket that bolts to the intake manifold and runs a double cable from the pedal lever to the carburetor’s throttle shaft.

http://www.bighealey.co.uk/content/throttle-cable-conversion

Denis Welch Throttle Cable Kit

Denis Welch Throttle Cable Kit

Because I had already begun my work and had my firewall bracket in place I decided to use the Welch cast aluminum bracket for my car, but not the rest of the kit. It has a swing mechanism built into to the cable housing that takes all alignment pressure off the cable. The kit is designed for racing cars and as such has a double cable. The double cable probably provides a somewhat smoother action and some security. I only use one cable, but I will probably switch to two at some point.

Approaching the carburetor throttle shaft lever from the manifold side of the carbs means you are pulling the carburetor throttle shaft lever up and there is not a great deal of room for that swing. I ended up cutting a notch out of my heat shield to remove any encumbrances. The image below shows the Denis Welch manifold-mounted bracket and the cut-out in the heat shield.

Welch Throttle Bracket

Welch Throttle Bracket

The Cable

The kits provide cable and fittings. I decided to use a Lokar cable and fittings only because I liked the braided cable appearance in the engine bay. Other’s may prefer black and in fact, Lokar now makes this same cable in black with black fittings. http://www.lokar.com/product-pgs/throttlecables-kickdowns/tc-kd-pgs/throttle-cables.html

Lokar Throttle Cable

Lokar Throttle Cable

The Total Package

This image shows the engine bay with the throttle cable installed. I now run a stainless heater pipe rather than the copper, and my fuel hose routes differently on the front carburetor, but other than that things today are pretty much what you see in this image.

I cannot make meaningful comparisons between the functionality of the original throttle linkage and the new throttle cable. My mechanical linkage was fifty years old and worn out so comparisons are not appropriate. I do know that the cable has worked quite well, is very responsive, and much easier to get to than the original mechanical system.

My Bloody Beast Engine with Throttle Cable

My Bloody Beast Engine with Throttle Cable

Another’s Installation

I don’t know who owns the car, but I recently came across some images of a throttle cable conversion that is accomplished quite well in my view. There is a long cable run, but it is well executed. This car uses Webers instead of SUs but the approach is the same. Apologies to the owner if he/she is unhappy sharing this nice work:

Throttle Cable Routing

Throttle Cable Routing

Throttle Cable Routing

Throttle Cable Routing

Manifold Mounting

Firewall Mounting

Firewall Mounting

I hope this description has been useful to readers who are interested in taking a similar approach. Just as I borrowed from the work of others and modified to my own tastes I would expect others to do the same. Please comment, offer suggestions as you like.

While the article does not format as well in a pdf document. for those readers who want to save this as a pdf or for those who want to print it as a pdf, this is the link:Throttle Cable Modification – Valve Chatter

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Engine Clean-up and Reinstall

Engine Install

Engine Install

One of the things I wanted to accomplish with the engine clean-up was to have the  exhaust header coated to reduce heat in the engine compartment and interior. I used Swain Coatings. The header came back looking great. Time will tell if the coating holds up and is effective in reducing heat.

Swain Coat Header

Swain Coat Header

Swain Coat Header

Swain Coat Header

I also did a general cleaning of the engine including a new paint job while the gearbox was being worked on by Jack Harper. I replaced the oil sump gasket and the rocker cover gasket, too. I tested and reinstalled the gear reduction starter. The air cleaners were cleaned and oiled with K&N products.

Clean Motor Assembly

Clean Motor Assembly

Clean Motor Assembly

Clean Motor Assembly

I developed the following list of items for reinstalling the engine and gearbox into the Bugeye:

Reinstalling a Bugeye Engine and Datsun 5-speed Transmission

  1. Grease the shaft splines on the engine and the yoke before installing the engine.
  2. Set the exhaust header in place so that it will be positioned to install once the engine is tightened into its mounts.
  3. Guide the motor into place with the lift so that the yoke on the driveshaft lines up with the transmission. If this does not work then remove the driveshaft and install after the engine and transmission are in place.
  4. Loosely secure the engine to the front motor mounts. The mounts themselves should be loose then tightened after all bolts/nuts are in place.
  5. Install the long bolts up through the crossmember into the rear transmission mount and tighten.
  6. Tighten the front engine mounts.
  7. Center the transmission in the rear mount, then push it as far to the right as possible, and tighten the transmission pad mounts on the bracket.
  8. Install the bolts in the sides of the transmission rear mounts from inside the car with the self locking nuts inside the tunnel. (Hint: tape the nuts in the wrench to make starting the threads easier.)
  9. Replace the gearshift lever.
  10. Connect the ground strap to the frame of the car.
  11. Replace the rocker cover and connect the breather hose.
  12. Install the intake and exhaust manifolds.
  13. Install heat shield and carbs.
  14. Connect throttle and choke cables.
  15. Connect breather hose.
  16. Connect hot water hose to copper tube and connect to radiator hose. Tighten clamps. It is easier to put the clamp on the hose/copper pipe when the copper pipe clips are loose from the manifold.
  17. Connect the short hot water hose from the water control valve to the heater.
  18. Connect the electrical cable from the gear reduction starter to the starter solenoid.
  19. Connect the oil pressure pipe to the fitting on the engine block by the banjo bolt.
  20. Reconnect the white/black line from the electronic ignition to the distributor.
  21. Connect the high tension line from the distributor to the coil.
  22. Reconnect the plastic terminal (3 wires) to the alternator.
  23. Connect the fuel line from the fuel pump to the carbs.
  24. Reattach the water temperature sensor to the engine head.
  25. Remove the banjo bolt where the oil line exits the rear of the block. Pour motor oil down the hole in the block to prime the oil pump. Reinstall the bolt.
  26. Remove the oil filter and pour it full of motor oil and reinstall.
  27. Fill engine with oil – Castrol GTX 10W-40.
  28. Fill the gearbox with Gear lube – Redline MT90. 2 1/4 pints. Use long clear plastic tube. Try pump.
  29. Connect the stainless steel flex line from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder.
  30. Bleed the clutch slave cylinder. (See Page 9 of Rivergate’s manual)
  31. Install radiator and fill with 50% coolant and 50% distilled water.
  32. Fix the carb drain lines to the mounting clamp at the lower rear of the engine compartment.
  33. Insert the 1 ½” connecter pipe (with sealant) for the exhaust system into the header pipe.
  34. Install the exhaust and muffler assembly.
  35. Tighten clamps on the exhaust connecter pipe.
  36. Reconnect the battery cables.
  37. When ready to start the engine, pull the spark plugs and spin the engine with the starter until the oil pressure goes up to normal on the pressure gauge, and stays.
  38. Check for any oil, coolant and fuel leaks.
  39. Reinstall the spark plugs and start engine.
  40. If engine does not start turn distributor 180 and try again!
  41. Install 4” fresh air heater hose and clamp.
  42. Install the leather shifter cover and surround.

Start It Up And Have Some Fun!

I Know It Fits!

I Know It Fits!

Motor Protection!

Motor Protection!

 

Engine Install

Engine Install