Jaguar Electrical Components

In this entry I will identify some, but not all of the major electrical components in the MK2, that are not addressed in their own entry or post.

Electrical System Overview

The Jaguar MK2 being British and a product of the mid-sixties has a positive earth electrical system. The starting system utilized a battery mounted under the bonnet, an ammeter, a starter solenoid on the firewall, a starter motor, a dynamo – commonly referred to as a generator in the U.S., a voltage control box or regulator along with a fuse box consisting of just two fuses, a Lucas ignition coil and a Lucas distributor with manually adjusted points.

My Mk2 has an updated electrical system. I have converted the system to negative ground an have installed a significantly upgraded fuse box and complementary wiring harness.

Alternator

I am installing an alternator in lieu of the original dynamo/generator. The alternator I am using is an Hitachi manufactured by Valeo for the 2004-2008 Nissan Maxima. It produces 120 amps. Detail information:

Hitachi 120 AMP Alternator 

  • Car Quest #11017A
  • Pure Energy # 13940N
  • Hitachi #LR1110710FAM
  • Plug 306
  • 2 1/2” Pulley, 17mm shaft
  • OE Manufacturer: Valeo

I ordered the Connector plug or “pigtail,” from National Quick Start Sales: http://store.alternatorparts.com/partnoc1900.aspx

Part # C1900 Hitachi, Mando, and Mitsubishi Alternator Wiring Repair Plug, Female. Alternator Wiring Harness Repair Connector with 2 Female Terminals

Being Japanese, the mounts for the alternator are obviously metric – and of different sizes! 18mm on rear bolt and 15mm on the front bolt with a 5/8″ wrench on both nuts.

The power input post for the Hitachi alternator is, unfortunately for me, on the top of the alternator when it is mounted to the motor. In this position, the top of the post is only about 1/4″ from the bottom of the steal air conditioner compressor mounting bracket. This can be seen in the image below:

Alternator Power Post

Alternator Power Post

Obviously, this is not a good situation. Bill Rader, owner of Blue Sky Radiator and Electrical came to my rescue! He was able to place an adapter on the alternator that redirected to power post to the rear of the alternator thereby eliminating my problem.

Redirected Power Post on Alternator

Redirected Power Post on Alternator

Battery

To be determined.

Distributor

I had such good fortune with the Dutch “123” electronic distributor in my Big Healey, that I chose to use the same product in the MK2. The Jag does use a different model, number “Jag 6-R-V.” The unit offers 16 different advance-curves, that can be selected via a little switch. Information on the Forums suggests that the #1 or #2 advance curve may be the best to use with the 3.8 Jag motor with total advance of no more than 34 degrees. In our test runs of the engine we did NOT connect the vacuum line to the distributor. I will need to do additional research before settling in on a particular setting.

123 Electronic Distributor

123 Electronic Distributor

 

SPECIFICATIONS
direct. : CCW (topview)
voltage : 4,0-15,0 Volts
range : 500 – 7000 rpm
temperature : -30 to 85 Celsius
coil : stock or High Energy coil
  primary coil NOT below 1,0 ohm
dwell : constant current, fully autom.
time-out : after 1 second current is switched off
spark-bal. : better than 0,5 degr. crankshaft
vacuum : advance starts at 5 inchHg
  stops at 10 degr. @ 10 inchHg
  gearshift retard > 17 inchHg
max.advance : 45 degr. crankshaft
wiring : red = +6V or +12V, black = ‘-‘ coil

 

Installation instructions are available here:

123 JAG6 Distributor Installation Instructions

There is considerable debate in the Jaguar community about the the vacuum advance for the 123 distributor if used on the 3.8 engine. Some say to not connect the vacuum advance, others say to use the ported vacuum advance port on the carburetor, but my friend Mike Gassman, from Gassman Automotive has suggested that performance will be safely enhanced by using direct manifold vacuum. This article  written by a retired General Motors engineer corroborates Mike’s thinking. Ported Vacuum vs Manifold Vacuum.

I am going to try the manifold vacuum for my project and see how the engine performs. I have decided to split the vacuum hose that connects the manifold and the brake reserve tank with a “T” connector. The smaller connection is then routed to the vacuum port on the 123 distributor. If you choose to do this, DO SO AT YOUR OWN RISK! Manufacturers would recommend against doing anything that might compromise braking vacuum but in my opinion, and that of others, the reserve tank provides more than ample vacuum pressure for the braking system.

Vacuum Line to Distributor

Vacuum Line to Distributor

 

Ignition Coil

The original Lucas coil was replaced with a “Flame Thrower”  high output, 3.0 ohm, 40,000 volt, internally resisted unit made by Pertronix, model number 40501. The coil has such a prominent place on the engine that I wanted it to look nice with the polished cam covers. Consequently, I opted to go with the chrome case for the “bling” effect, but it is also available in black.

Pertronix Ignition Coil 40501

Pertronix Ignition Coil 40501

Ignition – Spark Plug Wiring

I elected to purchase a ridiculously expensive assembled wiring conduit kit for Pertronix ignition from XKs Unlimited using 7mm black wire. The spark plug and coil ends are pre-installed.

Spark Plug High Tension Wiring with Conduit

Spark Plug High Tension Wiring with Conduit

Spark Plugs

I am using NGK BPR5ES plugs with a 0.045 gap as recommended by Paul Salt on the Saloon-Lovers Jag Forum for solid wires with no resistors. BP5ES otherwise.

Starter

“High Torque” or “Gear Reduction” starters are available for the MK2 3.8. These starters are considerably smaller and lighter than the original Lucas starter, but more importantly they have considerably more cranking power. The starter can be set up to either use or eliminate the original starter solenoid and I decided to keep the original set-up. I sourced the new starter from SNG Barratt.

SNG Barratt High Torque Starter

SNG Barratt High Torque Starter

The starter is located on the right side of the engine and is secured to the bell housing with two 3/8″-24 x 1/12″ hex head bolts, flat washers and split washers. I am using the original starter solenoid on the firewall so it is necessary to connect the short jumper wire to the + terminal of the starter upon installation. Since it is a bit crowded once the starter is mounted I attached the cable from the starter to the starter solenoid before installation of the starter. A rubber boot was used to cover the terminal. It will be connected to the firewall starter solenoid after the engine is mounted in the car.

Starter Installed on Engine

Starter Installed on Engine

Starter Installed on Engine - Close-up

Starter Installed on Engine – Close-up

 

Starter Solenoid

I am using a new reproduction solenoid. This is an image of a trial fitting of the solenoid on the Weather Protection Flange on the firewall.

Adaptor Plate Assembly for Solenoid and Solenoid Weather Protection Flange

Adaptor Plate Assembly for Solenoid and Solenoid Weather Protection Flange

Upgraded Brake Switch

I had planned to replace the MK2’s original hydraulic brake switch that activates the rear brake lights when the brakes are applied. The hydraulic switches currently available seem to experience a higher than normal failure rate. I encountered this same issue with my Austin-Healey 3000. In the Healey I replaced the hydraulic switch with a plug in the 4-way adaptor and installed a mechanical switch at the brake pedal. The wiring is the same as for the electrical switch. The mechanical switch was sourced from Watson’s Streetworks.

While I purchased the Watson’s switch to use in the MK2, I also found that Ron Francis Wiring sells an updated low pressure hydraulic switch that looks and mounts like the original. I decided to give this switch a try.

Ron Francis Hydraulic Brake Switch SW-32

Ron Francis Hydraulic Brake Switch SW-32

Horns

The horns are located at the front of the car and on either side of the engine compartment immediately below the radiator. My 1964 MK2 was equipped with horn model number WT (Wind Tone) 618U. I media blasted the two horns after stuffing the Flute with paper to avoid getting sand in the workings. I then took the domed covers off the high and low tone horns and painted each horn with POR-15 and overcoated with their spray Blackcoat product. I then sent the horns to E. Lawrie Rhoades, 7 Knollwood Rd, Medfield, MA 02052-2703 to have the electrical mechanism cleaned and tuned. Lawrie is a recognized expert on horn and wiper motor repair.

Horn Assemblies

Horn Assemblies

Horn Internals

Horn Internals

Horn Mounting Brackets

Both of the horn mounting brackets were also media blasted and painted with the POR-15 products. As the Service Manual indicates, the bracket is important in providing a ground to the horn, therefore, “Care should be taken in ensuring a good contact between the earth strap and horn bracket on the left hand horn.”  The horn is  secured to the bracket with two 1/4″ – 28 x  3/4″ hex head bolts with shakeproof washers and 1/4″ – 24 hex head nuts. The bracket is fastened to the bumper bracket with a single 3/8″ -24 x 7/8″ hex head bolt with both a flat washer and a shakeproof washer followed by a 3/8″ – 24 hex nut.

The LH Horn is the Low note horn and the RH Horn is the high note horn.

This image illustrates the connection of the ground wire to the car’s frame. the wire eyelet is fastened to the frame with a 1/4″ – 28 x 1/2″ hex head bolt, shakeproof washer and a 1/4″ -24 hex nut.

Horn Ground Wire

Horn Ground Wire

Horn Mounting Brackets

Horn Mounting Bracket

This image illustrates mounting and orientation of the horns below the radiator:

Horn Orientation

Horn Orientation

Headlamp Dipper Switch

The Headlamp Dipper Switch was in good condition and was cleaned for reuse. The switch is secured to the floorboard with two #10 – 32 x 1 7/8″ hex head bolts through distance pieces with shake proof washers. A rubber cap is pushed over the end of the foot switch.

The upper part of the switch base plate is the shorter side with the mounting screw hole offset to the right. This orientation is instructive for the proper location of the switch wiring on the three terminals. The terminal farthest to the right has the blue/red single wire, the lowest terminal (closest to the floor) has the single solid blue wire, and the left most terminal has two blue/white wires.

Headlamp Dipper Switch

Headlamp Dipper Switch

Dipper Switch Wiring

Dipper Switch Wiring

Headlamp Dipper Switch

Headlamp Dipper Switch

Headlamp Dipper Switch

Headlamp Dipper Switch

Renewed Dipper Switch

Renewed Dipper Switch

Renewed Dipper Switch

Renewed Dipper Switch

 

Direction Indicator/Headlamp Flasher

My MK2 has a Model 85 unit. I cleaned the assembly. The wiring appeared to be in very good condition but the nylon “spring” that catches the arm in the left or right position was broken.

Direction Indicator/Headlamp Flasher Switch

Direction Indicator/Headlamp Flasher Switch

Turn Indicator Flasher Side View

Turn Indicator Flasher Side View

There was a time when Lucas made and sold repair kits to replace the nylon spring. Today they are a challenge to find but they do come up on ebay from time to time. I was able to purchase two of the repair kits. The kit includes the spring and the rivet used to hold the components together.

Lucas Turn Indicator Spring Set

Lucas Turn Indicator Spring Set

Turn Indicator Nylon Spring

Turn Indicator Nylon Spring

To replace the spring one removes two slotted screws from the plastic electrical fitting. This must be done carefully as there are a total of four springs between the aluminum housing and the plastic fitting.

Turn Indicator Springs

Turn Indicator Springs

Once the electrical fitting is removed one has access to the rivet that must be drilled/cut out.

Turn Indicator Disassembly

Turn Indicator Disassembly

Turn Indicator Rivet

Turn Indicator Rivet

It is a tedious and somewhat challenging task to install the new rivet. I actually visited Mike Gassman of Gassman Automotive to help me with the install.

Turn Indicator Rivet

Turn Indicator Rivet

I held the assembly in place over a steel rod while Mike used several punches to get the job done. We didn’t do as well as the factory but we succeeded.

After placing all of the electrical contacts, springs and nylon/plastic components in their proper place one carefully places the black electrical fitting over the assembly and compresses carefully while a friend (spouse) inserts and tightens the two screws that hold the assembly together. This little piece consumed a lot of energy and time, but now functions as new!

Turn Signal Indicator Lights

The MK2 used a short pigtail harness to connect the turn signal switch, the flasher relay and the indicator bulbs located on the steering column. My original harness was in very good condition and will be reinstalled after cleaning. Three warning bulbs are provided in the harness.

Turn Signal and Overdrive Indicator Bulbs, Holders, and Pigtail

Turn Signal and Overdrive Indicator Bulbs, Holders, and Pigtail

The LH bulb for the LH turn signal, the center bulb to indicate overdrive engagement and the RH bulb for the RH turn signal. The two turn signal indicator bulbs are replaced with green BA7 LED micro bayonet bulbs and the overdrive bulb is a clear white BA7. Bulbs were sourced from 4sightautomotive lighting at http://www.bettercarlighting.co.uk. This image shows the original bulb as well as the LED replacement:

2 Watt Liliput Turn Signal Indicator Bulb and Replacement BA7LED Green Micro Bayonet Bulb

2 Watt Liliput Turn Signal Indicator Bulb and Replacement BA7LED Green Micro Bayonet Bulb

I am also using LED flasher bulbs at each of the four corners of the car. Using the LED bulbs requires a LED flasher relay that is incorporated into the Classic Technologies Relay/fuse panel that I am using for my electrical system. The pigtail is held in place by a small bracket located on the backside of the LH Fascia Board Assembly and the bulbs plug into the Upper Switch Cover Assembly at Centre of Steering Wheel.

Turn Signal and Overdrive Indicator Bulbs, Holders, Pigtail and Mounting Bracket on LH Fascia Board Assembly

Turn Signal and Overdrive Indicator Bulbs, Holders, Pigtail and Mounting Bracket on LH Fascia Board Assembly

Overdrive Operating Switch

This switch which activates the electric overdrive is located on the right side of the steering column. Power is derived from fuse position #14 on the CT fuse box. With lever activation a signal is sent to the overdrive interlock, or top gear switch located on the top of the gearbox and then to the overdrive solenoid. A warning indicator bulb is illuminated when the overdrive is engaged.

Switch, on Gearbox Top Cover, Operating Reversing Light and Top Gear for Overdrive Unit

These two switches are identical. As indicated, both are located on the gearbox. I purchased new switches, but found after testing that both original switches worked fine so I left the original switches in place.

Overdrive Interlock or Top Gear Switch at gearbox

Overdrive Interlock or Top Gear Switch at gearbox

Original and New Lucas Overdrive and Reverse Switch

Original and New Lucas Overdrive and Reverse Switch

Oil Pressure Element

The Oil Pressure element or sensor is located directly above the Oil Filter Assembly on the RH side of the cylinder block. I replaced the element with a new Lucas item.Oil Pressure Element

Oil Pressure Element Mounted

Oil Pressure Element Mounted

Handbrake

 Handbrake

Handbrake Calipers

The mechanical handbrake unit is mounted on and above the caliper bodies on the rear brakes by means of pivot bolts and forked retraction plates. The Jaguar Service Manual states: “The handbrakes are self-adjusting to compensate for friction pad wear and automatically provide the necessary clearance between the brake discs and the friction pads.”

“When the handbrake lever in the car is operated, the operating lever (A) is moved away from the friction pad carrier (B) and draws the friction pads (F) together. Under normal conditions when the lever is released the pawl (C) in the adjusting mechanism returns to its normal position, thus the normal running clearance between the brake discs and the friction pads is maintained.”

“In the event of there being increased clearance, the pawl will turn the ratchet nut (D) on the bolt thread drawing the adjuster bolt (E) inwards and bringing the friction pads closer to the brake disc until the normal running clearance is restored.”

Handbrake Calipers

Handbrake Calipers

This image from the Jaguar Service Manual illustrates the adjusting mechanism of the “self-adjusting” handbrakes used on later model MK2s.

MK2 Handbrake Adjusting Mechanism

This is a great video done by [email protected] who rebuilt his XKE brake caliper assemblies: 

When I removed the cover from the handbrake lever I discovered globs of what I expect was fifty year old grease. The covers looked like they had never been removed. What a mess.

Handbrake Ratchet Nut and Spring Clip

The parts were working properly but did not rotate smoothly. I cleaned the components and applied some new grease for lubrication and reassembled the adjusting lever. 

In rebuilding my handbrake units, I kept the old pivot bolts that hold the handbrake calipers to the primary caliper body, but I did install new retraction plates, tab washers, friction pads, and adjuster bolts. 

 Handbrake Schematic

Handbrake Components
Handbrake Components

The Handbrake Compensator Lever is mounted to the rear axle case.

Handbrake Compensator Lever

Housing for Handbrake Shaft

Housing for Handbrake Shaft

Housing for Handbrake Shaft

Housing for Handbrake Shaft

Housing for Handbrake Shaft

The housing is made of brass and has a rubber seal. It is mounted with two 1/4″ – 28 x 7/8″ hex head bolts with split washers. I cleaned up the housing and reglued the rubber seal.

Handbrake Compensator Lever

Handbrake Compensator
Handbrake Compensator
Handbrake Compensator
Handbrake Compensator

The Handbrake Compensator Lever assembly was a greasy and dirty mess, but I eventually got it cleaned up with the preloaded tension set. This was the “Before” as mounted to the rear axle differential:

Handbrake Compensator Assembly

Handbrake Compensator Assembly

Handbrake Cable Support Bracket

The primary handbrake cable is supported by a bracket that is pop riveted to the underside of the floorboard. It consists of a thin metal strip with a nylon guide through which the cable travels. the nylon guide is secured to the guide with two #10 – 32 x 7/8″ bolts, flat washers and nylock nuts.

Supporting Bracket for Handbrake Cable

Supporting Bracket for Handbrake Cable

Supporting Bracket for Handbrake Cable

Supporting Bracket for Handbrake Cable

Handbrake Cables

The Handbrake cables were greasy and dirty, but otherwise appeared serviceable, but I decided to go ahead and replace them with cables sourced fromSNGBarratt.

Handbrake Cables and Components

Handbrake Cables and Components

Handbrake Lever

The Handbrake Lever from the shaft to the primary cable was cleaned up and painted with POR-15. The clamping bolt to the shaft is a 5/16″ -24 x 7/8″ hex head bolt with a split washer.

Handbrake lever from Shaft to Primary Cable

Handbrake lever from Shaft to Primary Cable

 The Fork End of the Primary Cable

The Fork End at the Rear of the Primary cable was also cleaned and painted to use with a new primary cable.

Fork End at Rear of Primary Handbrake Cable

Fork End at Rear of Primary Handbrake Cable

Handbrake Lever/Handle Assembly

Disassembling, cleaning, and reassembling the handbrake assembly was fairly simple and straightforward. I have not, as yet, been able to source new components for the assembly such as the spring, button and small pin that hold the pin to the internal rod. Until I do, I have chosen to not completely disassemble the handle. I would like to do so to have it rechromed, but it is not in terrible shape. We will see what materializes.

Handbrake Assembly 7

 

 

Handbrake Assembly Components

Handbrake Assembly Components

The pawl was a little rusty which I cleaned with the media blaster. I will definitiely send it away to have it re-zinced.

I first removed the cover plate, exposing handbrake pawl. This little piece was very rusty and it must be rechromed. It is held to the handle with two small self tapping screws that appear to be #2 x 1/4″. one of the screws was missing.

Cover Plate

Cover Plate

Cover Plate

Cover Plate

I then removed the chrome hex head bolt that held the handle, spring mechanism, pawl, the bracket operating the handbrake warning light switch and the shaft together. This was achieved by loosening the nylock nut. The bolt is a 5/16″ x 1 1/2″ special purpose bolt.

Brake Shaft

Brake Shaft

 

Handbrake Assembly Chrome Hex Bolt

Handbrake Assembly Chrome Hex Bolt

Handbrake Assembly Chrome Hex Bolt Removed

Handbrake Assembly Chrome Hex Bolt Removed

Chrome Hex Bolt, Nylock Nut, Bracket Operating Handbrake Warning Light Switch

Chrome Hex Bolt, Nylock Nut, Bracket Operating Handbrake Warning Light Switch

For lack of a better term, the pawl has two bushings with shoulders through which the handbrake shaft passes. These will be reused.

Pawl Bushings

Pawl Bushings

Pawl Bushings

Pawl Bushings

Pawl Bushings

Pawl Bushings

Handbrake Warning Lamp

The MK2 has a warning light for handbrake activation. The Switch, At Base Of Handbrake Lever, Operating Handbrake Warning Lamp is mounted to the interior floor with a Bracket. I am replacing the switch itself with a new component. The switch is held to the bracket with two adjusting nuts. The bracket is mounted to the interior floor with two #10-32 x 1/2 cheese head machine screws and lock washers.

 Handbrake Warning Lamp Mounting Bracket and Switch

Handbrake Warning Lamp Mounting Bracket and Switch

Handbrake Warning Switch

Handbrake Warning Switch

I media blasted the bracket and  zinc plated it for and reuse.

Handbrake Warning Lamp Switch Mounting Bracket

Handbrake Warning Lamp Switch Mounting Bracket

Handbrake System Installation

I began the installation by attaching the LH and RH compensator-to-caliper cables to the compensator. I used new cables sourced from SNG Barratt. The fork ends at one end of the cable are attached to the compensator balance lever with clevis and split pins as are the other ends to the handbrake calipers.

Handbrake Compensator Assembly with Cables

Handbrake Compensator Assembly with Cables

 

I then secured the pre-assembled handbrake compensator assembly to the rear axle. Two 5/16″-24 x 3/4″ hex head bolts with split washers are used to attach the assembly to the rear axle carrier through its cover. Note: These are coarse thread bolts, not fine thread as is typically used throughout the car! These two bolts are 1/4″ longer than the other cover mounting bolts to allow for the width of the compensator bracket. Sorry for the dark photo. It is a challenge to get contrast when everything is black.

Handbrake Compensator Assembly Mounted

Handbrake Compensator Assembly Mounted

RH Handbrake Cable from Compensator to Caliper

RH Handbrake Cable from Compensator to Caliper

LH Handbrake Cable from Compensator to Caliper

LH Handbrake Cable from Compensator to Caliper

I then prepared the primary cable that runs from the handbrake shaft lever to the compensator. There is a fork end at the rear end of the primary cable that permits adjustment of cable tension. A universal jaw is then used to connect the fork and the compensator, locked in place with a clevis and split pin. I went ahead and connected the jaw end to the compensator.

Primary Cable from Lever to Compensator Assembly

Primary Cable from Lever to Compensator Assembly

Primary Cable from Lever to Compensator Assembly Mounted

Primary Cable from Lever to Compensator Assembly Mounted

The next step was to attach the housing for the handbrake shaft with its rubber seal to the propshaft tunnel. The housing is secured to the tunnel with two 1/4″-28 x 5/8″ hex head bolts into captive nuts on the inside of the tunnel.

Handbrake Shaft Housing

Handbrake Shaft Housing

One can then insert the splined end of the shaft through the housing.

Handbrake Shaft Splined End

Handbrake Shaft Splined End

The handle end of the handbrake shaft is attached to the car floor and seat mounting crossmember with two bolts. The crossmember hex head bolt is 3/8″-24 x 3/4″ with a flat and split washer. The floorboard hex head bolt is 3/8″-24 x 1″. It goes through the mounting bracket and floor and is secured with a flat washer, and nylock nut. I found it easiest to install the handbrake first and then to install the handbrake warning light switch to the floor with the #10 machine screws. The seat crossmember bolt should be started initially and then the floor mount bolt.

Handbrake front mount bolt to seat crossmember

Handbrake front mount bolt to seat crossmember

Handbrake Floor Mount Bolt through Floor

Handbrake Floor Mount Bolt through Floor

The handbrake warning light switch is depressed when the handbrake is not on. When the handbrake handle is pulled upward the switch is activated and the warning light illuminates.

Handbrake Warning Switch

Handbrake Warning Switch

Handbrake Warning Switch

Handbrake Warning Switch

Handbrake Assembly Installed

Handbrake Assembly Installed

The handbrake lever previously mounted to the forward end of the primary cable was then slipped onto the splined handbrake shaft and the 1/4″-28 x 3/4″ hex head bolt was tightened to secure the lever to the shaft. 

Handbrake Lever Attached to Shaft

Handbrake Lever Attached to Shaft

To keep the primary cable from fouling against the propshaft, Jaguar installed a supporting bracket that is pop riveted to the floor. Since I will be dismantling everything before painting, I used #6 machine screws to temporarily mount the support bracket to the underside of the body.

Handbrake Cable Support Bracket Mounted

Handbrake Cable Support Bracket Mounted

Handbrake Cable Support Bracket Mounted

Handbrake Cable Support Bracket Mounted

With the exception of final adjustment of the primary cable to achieve the proper tension, that completes the mounting of the handbrake system to the car.

Refitting the Handbrake Caliper Mechanism

I just followed the Service Manual instructions for refitting the handbrake calipers and friction pads. Although, as with most things, it is not quite as easy as it reads!  With the handbrake caliper assembly in your hand (friction pads installed), the adjusting bolt is screwed into the ratchet nut until their is a distance of approximately 7/16″ between the friction pads, that is, the thickness of the disc plus 1/16. The split pin is then refit through the handbrake caliper friction pad carrier and the adjuster bolt to hold it in place. The entire unit is then “dropped” over the disc rotor and in place on the primary brake caliper. The two pivot pins, retraction plates and tab washers are then installed. Yes, it can be a pain to get these pins aligned.

The directions indicate that one is to pull and release the operating lever at the caliper repeatedly when the ratchet will be heard to “click over.” This operation is repeated until the ratchet will not operate which will indicate that the correct clearance is maintained between the disc and the friction pads.

I then connected the cross cables with their clevis pins. With the handbrake lever in the full down (slack) position, I loosened the lock nut at the rear end of the main cable and then “adjusted the length of the main cable by screwing the threaded end of the cable into the fork end to a point just short of where the handbrake operating levers at the calipers start to move.” The cables will have some slack in them when the handbrake lever is in the rest position. 

I then tested the handbrake lever and found that I “locked-up” the rear brake rotors after six upward clicks n the handbrake pawl. I then made sure that I had all of the split pins installed and  I declared the system functional!