Jaguar Electrical Components

In this entry I will identify some, but not all of the major electrical components in the MK2, that are not addressed in their own entry or post.

Electrical System Overview

The Jaguar MK2 being British and a product of the mid-sixties has a positive earth electrical system. The starting system utilized a battery mounted under the bonnet, an ammeter, a starter solenoid on the firewall, a starter motor, a dynamo – commonly referred to as a generator in the U.S., a voltage control box or regulator along with a fuse box consisting of just two fuses, a Lucas ignition coil and a Lucas distributor with manually adjusted points.

My Mk2 has an updated electrical system. I have converted the system to negative ground an have installed a significantly upgraded fuse box and complementary wiring harness.

Alternator

I am installing an alternator in lieu of the original dynamo/generator. The alternator I am using is an Hitachi manufactured by Valeo for the 2004-2008 Nissan Maxima. It produces 120 amps. Detail information:

Hitachi 120 AMP Alternator 

  • Car Quest #11017A
  • Pure Energy # 13940N
  • Hitachi #LR1110710FAM
  • Plug 306
  • 2 1/2” Pulley, 17mm shaft
  • OE Manufacturer: Valeo

I ordered the Connector plug or “pigtail,” from National Quick Start Sales: http://store.alternatorparts.com/partnoc1900.aspx

Part # C1900 Hitachi, Mando, and Mitsubishi Alternator Wiring Repair Plug, Female. Alternator Wiring Harness Repair Connector with 2 Female Terminals

Being Japanese, the mounts for the alternator are obviously metric – and of different sizes! 18mm on rear bolt and 15mm on the front bolt with a 5/8″ wrench on both nuts.

The power input post for the Hitachi alternator is, unfortunately for me, on the top of the alternator when it is mounted to the motor. In this position, the top of the post is only about 1/4″ from the bottom of the steal air conditioner compressor mounting bracket. This can be seen in the image below:

Alternator Power Post

Alternator Power Post

Obviously, this is not a good situation. Bill Rader, owner of Blue Sky Radiator and Electrical came to my rescue! He was able to place an adapter on the alternator that redirected to power post to the rear of the alternator thereby eliminating my problem.

Redirected Power Post on Alternator

Redirected Power Post on Alternator

Battery

To be determined.

Distributor

I had such good fortune with the Dutch “123” electronic distributor in my Big Healey, that I chose to use the same product in the MK2. The Jag does use a different model, number “Jag 6-R-V.” The unit offers 16 different advance-curves, that can be selected via a little switch. Information on the Forums suggests that the #1 or #2 advance curve may be the best to use with the 3.8 Jag motor with total advance of no more than 34 degrees. In our test runs of the engine we did NOT connect the vacuum line to the distributor. I will need to do additional research before settling in on a particular setting.

123 Electronic Distributor

123 Electronic Distributor

 

SPECIFICATIONS
direct. : CCW (topview)
voltage : 4,0-15,0 Volts
range : 500 – 7000 rpm
temperature : -30 to 85 Celsius
coil : stock or High Energy coil
  primary coil NOT below 1,0 ohm
dwell : constant current, fully autom.
time-out : after 1 second current is switched off
spark-bal. : better than 0,5 degr. crankshaft
vacuum : advance starts at 5 inchHg
  stops at 10 degr. @ 10 inchHg
  gearshift retard > 17 inchHg
max.advance : 45 degr. crankshaft
wiring : red = +6V or +12V, black = ‘-‘ coil

 

Installation instructions are available here:

123 JAG6 Distributor Installation Instructions

There is considerable debate in the Jaguar community about the the vacuum advance for the 123 distributor if used on the 3.8 engine. Some say to not connect the vacuum advance, others say to use the ported vacuum advance port on the carburetor, but my friend Mike Gassman, from Gassman Automotive has suggested that performance will be safely enhanced by using direct manifold vacuum. This article  written by a retired General Motors engineer corroborates Mike’s thinking. Ported Vacuum vs Manifold Vacuum.

I am going to try the manifold vacuum for my project and see how the engine performs. I have decided to split the vacuum hose that connects the manifold and the brake reserve tank with a “T” connector. The smaller connection is then routed to the vacuum port on the 123 distributor. If you choose to do this, DO SO AT YOUR OWN RISK! Manufacturers would recommend against doing anything that might compromise braking vacuum but in my opinion, and that of others, the reserve tank provides more than ample vacuum pressure for the braking system.

Vacuum Line to Distributor

Vacuum Line to Distributor

 

Ignition Coil

The original Lucas coil was replaced with a “Flame Thrower”  high output, 3.0 ohm, 40,000 volt, internally resisted unit made by Pertronix, model number 40501. The coil has such a prominent place on the engine that I wanted it to look nice with the polished cam covers. Consequently, I opted to go with the chrome case for the “bling” effect, but it is also available in black.

Pertronix Ignition Coil 40501

Pertronix Ignition Coil 40501

Ignition – Spark Plug Wiring

I elected to purchase a ridiculously expensive assembled wiring conduit kit for Pertronix ignition from XKs Unlimited using 7mm black wire. The spark plug and coil ends are pre-installed.

Spark Plug High Tension Wiring with Conduit

Spark Plug High Tension Wiring with Conduit

Spark Plugs

I am using NGK BPR5ES plugs with a 0.045 gap as recommended by Paul Salt on the Saloon-Lovers Jag Forum for solid wires with no resistors. BP5ES otherwise.

Starter

“High Torque” or “Gear Reduction” starters are available for the MK2 3.8. These starters are considerably smaller and lighter than the original Lucas starter, but more importantly they have considerably more cranking power. The starter can be set up to either use or eliminate the original starter solenoid and I decided to keep the original set-up. I sourced the new starter from SNG Barratt.

SNG Barratt High Torque Starter

SNG Barratt High Torque Starter

The starter is located on the right side of the engine and is secured to the bell housing with two 3/8″-24 x 1/12″ hex head bolts, flat washers and split washers. I am using the original starter solenoid on the firewall so it is necessary to connect the short jumper wire to the + terminal of the starter upon installation. Since it is a bit crowded once the starter is mounted I attached the cable from the starter to the starter solenoid before installation of the starter. A rubber boot was used to cover the terminal. It will be connected to the firewall starter solenoid after the engine is mounted in the car.

Starter Installed on Engine

Starter Installed on Engine

Starter Installed on Engine - Close-up

Starter Installed on Engine – Close-up

 

Starter Solenoid

I am using a new reproduction solenoid. This is an image of a trial fitting of the solenoid on the Weather Protection Flange on the firewall.

Adaptor Plate Assembly for Solenoid and Solenoid Weather Protection Flange

Adaptor Plate Assembly for Solenoid and Solenoid Weather Protection Flange

Upgraded Brake Switch

I had planned to replace the MK2’s original hydraulic brake switch that activates the rear brake lights when the brakes are applied. The hydraulic switches currently available seem to experience a higher than normal failure rate. I encountered this same issue with my Austin-Healey 3000. In the Healey I replaced the hydraulic switch with a plug in the 4-way adaptor and installed a mechanical switch at the brake pedal. The wiring is the same as for the electrical switch. The mechanical switch was sourced from Watson’s Streetworks.

While I purchased the Watson’s switch to use in the MK2, I also found that Ron Francis Wiring sells an updated low pressure hydraulic switch that looks and mounts like the original. I decided to give this switch a try.

Ron Francis Hydraulic Brake Switch SW-32

Ron Francis Hydraulic Brake Switch SW-32

Horns

The horns are located at the front of the car and on either side of the engine compartment immediately below the radiator. My 1964 MK2 was equipped with horn model number WT (Wind Tone) 618U. I media blasted the two horns after stuffing the Flute with paper to avoid getting sand in the workings. I then took the domed covers off the high and low tone horns and painted each horn with POR-15 and overcoated with their spray Blackcoat product. I then sent the horns to E. Lawrie Rhoades, 7 Knollwood Rd, Medfield, MA 02052-2703 to have the electrical mechanism cleaned and tuned. Lawrie is a recognized expert on horn and wiper motor repair.

Horn Assemblies

Horn Assemblies

Horn Internals

Horn Internals

Horn Mounting Brackets

Both of the horn mounting brackets were also media blasted and painted with the POR-15 products. As the Service Manual indicates, the bracket is important in providing a ground to the horn, therefore, “Care should be taken in ensuring a good contact between the earth strap and horn bracket on the left hand horn.”  The horn is  secured to the bracket with two 1/4″ – 28 x  3/4″ hex head bolts with shakeproof washers and 1/4″ – 24 hex head nuts. The bracket is fastened to the bumper bracket with a single 3/8″ -24 x 7/8″ hex head bolt with both a flat washer and a shakeproof washer followed by a 3/8″ – 24 hex nut.

The LH Horn is the Low note horn and the RH Horn is the high note horn.

This image illustrates the connection of the ground wire to the car’s frame. the wire eyelet is fastened to the frame with a 1/4″ – 28 x 1/2″ hex head bolt, shakeproof washer and a 1/4″ -24 hex nut.

Horn Ground Wire

Horn Ground Wire

Horn Mounting Brackets

Horn Mounting Bracket

This image illustrates mounting and orientation of the horns below the radiator:

Horn Orientation

Horn Orientation

Headlamp Dipper Switch

The Headlamp Dipper Switch was in good condition and was cleaned for reuse. The switch is secured to the floorboard with two #10 – 32 x 1 7/8″ hex head bolts through distance pieces with shake proof washers. A rubber cap is pushed over the end of the foot switch.

The upper part of the switch base plate is the shorter side with the mounting screw hole offset to the right. This orientation is instructive for the proper location of the switch wiring on the three terminals. The terminal farthest to the right has the blue/red single wire, the lowest terminal (closest to the floor) has the single solid blue wire, and the left most terminal has two blue/white wires.

Headlamp Dipper Switch

Headlamp Dipper Switch

Dipper Switch Wiring

Dipper Switch Wiring

Headlamp Dipper Switch

Headlamp Dipper Switch

Headlamp Dipper Switch

Headlamp Dipper Switch

Renewed Dipper Switch

Renewed Dipper Switch

Renewed Dipper Switch

Renewed Dipper Switch

 

Direction Indicator/Headlamp Flasher

My MK2 has a Model 85 unit. I cleaned the assembly. The wiring appeared to be in very good condition but the nylon “spring” that catches the arm in the left or right position was broken.

Direction Indicator/Headlamp Flasher Switch

Direction Indicator/Headlamp Flasher Switch

Turn Indicator Flasher Side View

Turn Indicator Flasher Side View

There was a time when Lucas made and sold repair kits to replace the nylon spring. Today they are a challenge to find but they do come up on ebay from time to time. I was able to purchase two of the repair kits. The kit includes the spring and the rivet used to hold the components together.

Lucas Turn Indicator Spring Set

Lucas Turn Indicator Spring Set

Turn Indicator Nylon Spring

Turn Indicator Nylon Spring

To replace the spring one removes two slotted screws from the plastic electrical fitting. This must be done carefully as there are a total of four springs between the aluminum housing and the plastic fitting.

Turn Indicator Springs

Turn Indicator Springs

Once the electrical fitting is removed one has access to the rivet that must be drilled/cut out.

Turn Indicator Disassembly

Turn Indicator Disassembly

Turn Indicator Rivet

Turn Indicator Rivet

It is a tedious and somewhat challenging task to install the new rivet. I actually visited Mike Gassman of Gassman Automotive to help me with the install.

Turn Indicator Rivet

Turn Indicator Rivet

I held the assembly in place over a steel rod while Mike used several punches to get the job done. We didn’t do as well as the factory but we succeeded.

After placing all of the electrical contacts, springs and nylon/plastic components in their proper place one carefully places the black electrical fitting over the assembly and compresses carefully while a friend (spouse) inserts and tightens the two screws that hold the assembly together. This little piece consumed a lot of energy and time, but now functions as new!

Turn Signal Indicator Lights

The MK2 used a short pigtail harness to connect the turn signal switch, the flasher relay and the indicator bulbs located on the steering column. My original harness was in very good condition and will be reinstalled after cleaning. Three warning bulbs are provided in the harness.

Turn Signal and Overdrive Indicator Bulbs, Holders, and Pigtail

Turn Signal and Overdrive Indicator Bulbs, Holders, and Pigtail

The LH bulb for the LH turn signal, the center bulb to indicate overdrive engagement and the RH bulb for the RH turn signal. The two turn signal indicator bulbs are replaced with green BA7 LED micro bayonet bulbs and the overdrive bulb is a clear white BA7. Bulbs were sourced from 4sightautomotive lighting at http://www.bettercarlighting.co.uk. This image shows the original bulb as well as the LED replacement:

2 Watt Liliput Turn Signal Indicator Bulb and Replacement BA7LED Green Micro Bayonet Bulb

2 Watt Liliput Turn Signal Indicator Bulb and Replacement BA7LED Green Micro Bayonet Bulb

I am also using LED flasher bulbs at each of the four corners of the car. Using the LED bulbs requires a LED flasher relay that is incorporated into the Classic Technologies Relay/fuse panel that I am using for my electrical system. The pigtail is held in place by a small bracket located on the backside of the LH Fascia Board Assembly and the bulbs plug into the Upper Switch Cover Assembly at Centre of Steering Wheel.

Turn Signal and Overdrive Indicator Bulbs, Holders, Pigtail and Mounting Bracket on LH Fascia Board Assembly

Turn Signal and Overdrive Indicator Bulbs, Holders, Pigtail and Mounting Bracket on LH Fascia Board Assembly

Overdrive Operating Switch

This switch which activates the electric overdrive is located on the right side of the steering column. Power is derived from fuse position #14 on the CT fuse box. With lever activation a signal is sent to the overdrive interlock, or top gear switch located on the top of the gearbox and then to the overdrive solenoid. A warning indicator bulb is illuminated when the overdrive is engaged.

Switch, on Gearbox Top Cover, Operating Reversing Light and Top Gear for Overdrive Unit

These two switches are identical. As indicated, both are located on the gearbox. I purchased new switches, but found after testing that both original switches worked fine so I left the original switches in place.

Overdrive Interlock or Top Gear Switch at gearbox

Overdrive Interlock or Top Gear Switch at gearbox

Original and New Lucas Overdrive and Reverse Switch

Original and New Lucas Overdrive and Reverse Switch

Oil Pressure Element

The Oil Pressure element or sensor is located directly above the Oil Filter Assembly on the RH side of the cylinder block. I replaced the element with a new Lucas item.Oil Pressure Element

Oil Pressure Element Mounted

Oil Pressure Element Mounted

New Wiring Harness Circuits

Power Inputs to the Classic Technologies’ Relay/Fuse Panel

The Classic Technologies Panel has four primary connections.

Classic Technology's Relay Fuse Panel

Classic Technologies’ Relay Fuse Panel

A – 12V power input from the small fuse box (battery B+) to power the accessories circuits. A brown 12 AWG wire is used to the Yellow screw terminal spade lug connection.

B – 12V power input from the small fuse box (battery B+) to power the high and low beam headlight relays. A brown/blue 14 AWG wire is used to the Blue screw terminal spade lug connection.

C – 12V power input from the small fuse box (battery B+) to power the constant power circuits in the vehicle. A brown 12 AWG wire is used to the Red screw terminal for a spade lug termination.

O – ground or earth to the car’s chassis.

In my case, 12V power is routed from the battery in the trunk to the starter solenoid mounted centrally on the firewall in the engine bay. The negative terminal of the battery is wired to the car’s chassis. A ground strap is used to connect the grounded chassis to the engine/gearbox.

Ground Strap Mounted

Ground Strap Mounted

The battery relocation to the boot was addressed in a previous post.From the solenoid, a brown 8 AWG wire delivers power to a small fuse box with six circuits mounted on the firewall directly below the starter solenoid. I used two nutserts for the mounting to the firewall.  Three of the six fused circuits are then used to provide power to three input terminals on the Classic Technologies’ relay/fuse panel. The additional three are spares for the moment.

OnLine-LED-Store Six-Way Fuse Box

OnLine-LED-Store Six-Way Fuse Box

This is a diagram of the wiring to the Relay/Fuse Panel:

Rose Jaguar MK2 Power to the Classic Technologies Fuse Box

Rose Jaguar MK2 Power to the Classic Technologies Fuse Box

Six Way Firewall Fuse Box Delivering Power to Classic Tech Relay:Fuse Panel

Six Way Firewall Fuse Box Delivering Power to Classic Tech Relay:Fuse Panel

The three wires from the small firewall fuse box, the white/red wire from the solenoid to the fuse panel and the heavy 4 AWG cable from the solenoid to the alternator will be “packaged” together in one TechFlex sleeve/cover.

Before getting into the allocation of the thirty-four fuse positions available to use in the Classic Technologies Relay/Fuse panel, it might be helpful to once again point point out that as indicated in the post on new wiring harness connectors I developed a spreadsheet to be used in conjunction with wiring diagrams. The spreadsheet lists all connection points of the electrical wiring system. Links are provided below:

Again, a disclaimer is appropriate: The spreadsheet is provided as guidance for those who might wish to do something similar, but it should not be duplicated or utilized without careful inspection and  approval by a certified automotive electrician.

This alphabetical listing of components is provided to help quickly identify items in the electrical system. A spreadsheet line number(s) associated with the component is indicated.

Rose Jaguar MK2 Electrical Connections Alpha listing

This is the spreadsheet showing all connections:

Rose Jaguar MK2 Electrical Connections Spreadsheet

The following four diagrams illustrate the wiring sourced from the thirty-four fused positions in the system. Please let me know if as a reader you note an error or an omission. I apologize for the somewhat primitive diagrams as I did not have proper software available to do the job. I resorted to “Keynote” a presentation software to complete the task.

Rose Jaguar MK2 Fuse Positions 1-8

Rose Jaguar MK2 Fuse Positions 1-8

Rose Jaguar MK2 Fuse Positions 9-16

Rose Jaguar MK2 Fuse Positions 9-16

Rose Jaguar MK2 Fuse Positions 17-25

Rose Jaguar MK2 Fuse Positions 17-25

Rose Jaguar MK2 Fuse Positions 26-34

Rose Jaguar MK2 Fuse Positions 26-34

 

Circuit Modifications & Additions

Several of the modifications I am making to my MK2 require either modified or new electrical circuits. I highlight below the details of some of these wiring changes.

Starter Solenoid

I replaced the original starter solenoid with a new one sourced from SNG Barratt. The large post closest to the firewall provides the mounting for the 4 AWG cable to the starter. The large post closest to the engine mounts three cables: the 2AWG cable from the battery, the 4AWG cable to the block connector on the electrical panel on the LH engine bay valance (ultimately to the alternator), and a 8AWG wire to the 6-way firewall fuse panel. On the upper small post on the solenoid a single wire from the starter button is attached.

Alternator

I have considerably more power requirements in my car than could be addressed by the original dynamo/generator.

The specifics of the Hitachi 120 amp alternator I am using may be found under the “electrical components” posting. However, I will detail the wiring to support the alternator here.

I decided to go with 4AWG cable and also decided to install a fuse in the line between the alternator and the wiring system to avoid any possibility of a problem with a power surge created by a bad regulator in the alternator.

I sourced the cable and fuse from CE Auto Electric Supply. The folks at CE Auto Electric Supply are very helpful and they sell high quality products. Both products are typically used in high-end sound system applications. This particular cable has 1,862 strands. The cable was terminated with 3/8″ terminals, properly crimped and covered with adhesive shrink tubing.

Alternator Cable CE Supply 4AWG 1862 Strands

Alternator Cable CE Supply 4AWG 1862 Strands

I installed a JL audio premium series master ANL fuse block with a 125 amp “Stinger” ANL style fuse, part number SPF52125 on the lower right portion of the original fuse panel.

ANL 125 Amp Fuse with J&L Holder

ANL 125 Amp Fuse with J&L Holder

Two three-quarter inch long machine screws were used to secure the fuse block to the panel. On one I was able to take advantage of the 10–32 captured nut that was already on the fuse panel, and on the other I used a nutsert with the 10-24 screw.

One of the nice features of this particular fuse block is that the ProStar hexagonal posts can be rotated so that the cable can approach from almost any angle. As you can see in the photo, I took advantage of this feature. After the engine is installed, the alternator cable will be cut to proper length.

As can be seen in the image, the cable from the ANL fuse connects to a connector block also used for the power steering.

Alternator Fuse Mounted

Alternator Fuse Mounted

The cable is then routed from the connector block along the LH valance and the firewall to the starter solenoid. It is difficult to track because of all of the in-process wiring, but the path of the alternator cable is visible in the image below:

Alternator Cable Wiring

Alternator Cable Wiring

Power Steering Pump

The installation of the power-assisted rack and pinion steering requires the conversion to negative earth and the installation of an alternator replacing the original dynamo/generator. The kit, as supplied, provided a Lucas 80 amp LMA 604 alternator. However, due to other electrical requirements I chose to upgrade to a 120 amp Hitachi alternator. Details about the alternator are found at this link: https://valvechatter.com/?p=4113.

M&C Wilkinson provided wiring instructions, but my configuration is slightly different than in the application they referenced. The wiring diagram below is my interpretation of the wiring required for the pump in my car.

Five wires emanate from the pump. The heavy brown wire connects to ground. The heavy red cable connects to the supplied 80 amp fuse. The 22 gauge black wire connects to the fuse panel at location #19 or #23. The 22 gauge blue/slate wire connects to the alternator at the indicator lamp post.

Rose Jaguar MK2 Wiring Diagram for Electric Power Steering Pump

Rose Jaguar MK2 Wiring Diagram for Electric Power Steering Pump

In this image I have installed the 80 amp fuse for the power steering pump. The Bosch relay will be used for the Fogranger fog lamps. All of this will be out of view once the black sheet metal cover his made for the panel.

Power Steering Pump, Alternator & Fogranger Wiring on Electrical Panel

Power Steering Pump, Alternator & Fogranger Wiring on Electrical Panel

Heater Fan Wiring

A full description of the restoration and modification of the heater box and fan may be found at the Heater Post on this Valvechatter website. The following information addresses the wiring of the heater fan.

The orange wire from the motor is connected to ground. The black wire to the “inside” post (closest to the heater box) of the resistor. The slate wire from terminal #6 on the switch is connected to the “outside” post (closest to the blower fan) of the resistor. The white/green wire from terminal #8 on the switch connects to the “inside” post on the resistor. The green/yellow wire from the #4 terminal of the switch is connected to the fuse position #11 for power. With this wiring in place, the lower position of the switch is “off,” the middle position is “Low Speed” and the upper position is “High Speed.”

I created a pigtail (seen below) from the resistor for the heater fan wiring. Two wires in the pigtail are connected through two-way snap connectors to wires of the same color which route through the firewall and ultimately back to the Fan Switch. The black wire in the pigtail goes directly to the fan motor. The orange wire from the motor is the ground and it is connected to the LH valance grounding terminal strip.

Heater Fan Wiring

Heater Fan Wiring

Heater Fan Wiring

Heater Fan Wiring

Wiper Motor Wiring

As documented in my post entitled Wiper System Upgrade, I installed a Lucas 29W wiper motor kit from Classic Motor Cars in the UK. The upgrade includes a relay mounted behind the central instrument panel assembly. The wiring for the wiper switch is referenced above under the section “Instrument Panel Assembly Switch Wiring.” This is a diagram of the wiring:

Rose Jaguar MK2 Wiper System Wiring

Rose Jaguar MK2 Wiper System Wiring

This is an image of the wiper motor mounting. I used eight of the ten connection points in a ten-way rubber snap connector and fastened it to engine bay RH valance with an original type retaining clasp. note the wiper motor ground connection to the upper left.

Wiper Motor Mount and Wiring

Wiper Motor Mount and Wiring

Cruise Control Wiringcruise-control-installation-disclaimer-001

A full description of the installation of the Rostra Cruise Control System in my MK2 is provided in the MK2 Cruise Control Post. My wiring diagram, tailored for my 1964 Jaguar MK2 application, is provided below. As the disclaimer above indicates, the wiring description in this post journals what I did for my car. It is not my intention to describe what you should do for your car!

This is a link to a pdf of the wiring diagram and it is also shown in the image below:

rostra-cruise-control-wiring-for-jag-mk2

Rostar Cruise Control Wiring for the Rose MK2

Rostar Cruise Control Wiring for the Rose MK2

Central Locking and Keyless Entry Wiring

A full description of the locking system may be found at the “Remote Control Door Locks web site entry: https://valvechatter.com/?p=9205. The wiring for the system is comprised of two components. The MES Central Locking Control Module operates the door lock actuators. Once that system in properly installed and operating as it should, the AVITAL keyless entry module is added to permit use of a key fob to wirelessly lock and unlock all doors. An added feature of the system is that about fifteen seconds after ignition all doors are locked automatically. 

The following wiring diagram is unfortunately a bit busy. This is a link to a pdf file of the diagram: Keyless Entry Power Locks for Rose Jag MK2 and a jpeg file is depicted below:

Keyless Entry Power Locks for Rose Jag MK2

 

Air Conditioner Operating Controls Wiring

A full description of the installation of the RetroAir air conditioning system in my MK2 is provided in the “Air Conditioning” Post. The wiring of the controls and devices for the air conditioning system is depicted in the following diagram:

Rose Jaguar MK2 Air Conditioning Wiring

Rose Jaguar MK2 Air Conditioning Wiring

This is a photograph of the wiring harness provided in the RetroAir kit. In my application I did not use the circuit breaker shown in the image because I wired the blower switch directly to the fuse panel and protected the system at that point with a 40 amp fuse.

RetroAir Wiring Harness Kit

RetroAir Wiring Harness Kit

As the diagram above illustrates, I chose to install a trinary pressure safety switch in the air conditioning electrical circuit. The trinity switch is also discussed in the “Air Conditioning Post.”

Vintage Air Trinary Switch

Vintage Air Trinary Switch

The Vintage Air trinary switch kits combine low and high pressure compressor clutch cut-off functions plus an electric fan engagement signal at 254 psi. The low pressure cut-off of these trinary switches is 30 psi and the high pressure cut-off is 406 psi.

http://www.vintageair.com/Instructions2013/904678.pdf

The switch as supplied has two blue wires and two black wires. Because the switch is located in a right from wheel well and exposed to the elements, I connected the four wires to a waterproof connector purchased from British Wiring, and then routed the wires to their termination points. One blue wire is for ground and the other for fused power. One black wire connects to the compressor and the other to the thermostat controller for the air conditioner.

Turn Indicator and Headlamp Flasher Switch at the Steering Column  and the Laycock De Normanville Overdrive Switch and Wiring

The electric overdrive is activated by a lever switch on the right side of the steering column. Power is derived from fuse position #14 of the CT fuse box. With lever activation a signal is sent to the overdrive interlock, or top gear switch located on the top of the gearbox and then to the overdrive solenoid. A warning indicator bulb is illuminated when the overdrive is engaged. More information about the switch and lever mechanism may be found in the “electrical components” post.

Overdrive Interlock or Top Gear Switch at gearbox

Overdrive Interlock or Top Gear Switch at gearbox

The lever on the left side of the steering column is used in an upward and downward motion to activate the LH and RH turn indicator flashers at the front and rear of the vehicle. When the flashers are functioning an indicator bulb located in a centralized position behind the steering wheel is illuminated in a flashing pattern. The headlamp flasher is activated by the driver pulling the same lever toward himself. This action will trigger the high beam warning light in the speedometer.

Rose Jaguar MK2 Flasher Circuit & Overdrive

Rose Jaguar MK2 Flasher Circuit & Overdrive

Turn Signal Switch Wiring

Turn Signal Switch Wiring

Turn Signal and overdrive indicator bulbs, holders, and pigtail

Turn Signal and overdrive indicator bulbs, holders, and pigtail

Auxiliary Power/USB Ports

I intend to install an arm rest/console between the front seats in my MK2. The console will include an auxiliary power/USB port unit. Power is sourced from the fuse box, position #12.

Auxiliary Power and USB unit

Auxiliary Power and USB unit

Auxiliary Power and USB unit

Auxiliary Power and USB unit

Powered Front Seats

The front seats I am using are from a Jaguar XJ40. More information about the seats is available at the “Seating” post. They have more features than I plan to use.

1990 Daimler Front Seats

1990 Daimler Front Seats

Although the wiring harnesses were complete, there were a number of electrical connectors on the harnesses with no explanation as to what needed to be connected where to get the seats functioning.

Seat Wiring Harness and Switches

Seat Wiring Harness and Switches

The seats have seat heaters (upper and lower cushions), a memory feature for the driver’s seat, seat belt alarms, and wiring to permit automatic movement of the driver’s seat to the aft position when the driver’s door is opened.

After some enquiries on the Forums, Bryan Neish came to my aid. He was of great help figuring out what the wiring at each of the connectors did. I know he spent quite a lot of time reviewing wiring diagrams to find what I needed. George Leicht was also helpful. He sent along the wiring diagram that accurately reflected my seat wiring.

I wired the seats to unswitched power at the fuse box to facilitate seat operation before entry or before starting the ignition. I was able to use the original seat wiring harness and bank of switches to control the four motors adjusting the lower and upper seat cushions for each chair. The wiring runs under the center console to each seat. A pdf file of the seat wiring schematic for 1990 may be found here: 1990 Jaguar XJ40 Seat Electrical Schematic

I have yet to decide where I will mount the switches. The image below shows the approximate location of the switches as Ton Tulleken installed them on his car:

Possible Placement of Seat Switches

Possible Placement of Seat Switches

Kevin Moore's MK2 power seat switches

Kevin Moore’s MK2 power seat switches

The image above shows the location of the switches in Kevin Moore’s car.

Lighting

SideLights

Additional detail about the sidelamps may be seen in the exterior lighting post. I rewired the original side lamp fixtures and trial fitted them to the body. The rubber “O” rings supplied by SNG Barratt are to thick to fit properly so I replaced them with metric 24mm – 2mm “O”rings ordered from McMaster Carr. New LED bulbs were also fitted in the fixtures. The red 18 AWG wire from the bulb is combined with a black 14 AWG ground wire from the fixture in a vinyl sleeve that goes through the LH and RH valance lighting grommet.

SideLamps

SideLamps

RH Side Lamp Wiring & Sleeving

RH Side Lamp Wiring & Sleeving

Refurbished side lights installed

Refurbished side lights installed

Turn Signal Flasher Lamps

After installing the side lamps I moved to the turn signal flashers. Information about the lamps is contained in the exterior lights post. I re-used the original fixture wire terminals but replaced the power and ground wiring with new. The power wire is blue/green 18 AWG and the ground wire is black 14AWG. The wiring is pushed through holes on the back end of the fixture’s new rubber boot. New vinyl sleeving was also used for the flasher lamps.

Front Flasher Turn signal

Front Flasher Turn signal

Turn Signal Flasher with LED Installed

Turn Signal Flasher with LED Installed

Turn Signal Flasher Wiring

Turn Signal Flasher Wiring

Fograngers

More information about the fog rangers may be found in the exterior lights post. The Classic Technologies Fuse box did not have a relay designed into the product for fog or driving lights, so I added a Bosch relay for this function. It is mounted on the original fuse panel in the engine bay on the LH valance. The foglights are controlled by the primary light switch.

Rose Jaguar MK2 Fogranger Wiring

Rose Jaguar MK2 Fogranger Wiring

Fogranger Relay

Fogranger Relay

RH Fogranger Installed

RH Fogranger Installed

Headlights

More information about the headlights may be found in the exterior lights post. I installed new 3 wire (high beam, low beam, and ground) plugs, wiring and sleeving for the headlights.

Headlight Installed with Newly Chromed Trim Ring

Headlight Installed with Newly Chromed Trim Ring

Although not too pretty yet, this image shows the temporary installation of all of the front exterior lights. The blue painter’s tape is to protect the chrome. The installation was done to make sure that I had all the parts needed for a particular light and to test the electric circuitry and switches.

Temporary Installation of front Exterior Lights

Temporary Installation of front Exterior Lights

These images show the exterior lights wiring in new sleeving as it is routed from the individual fixture through the large wiring grommet located on each valance.

LH Front Exterior Lights Wire Sleeving and Routing

LH Front Exterior Lights Wire Sleeving and Routing

RH Front Exterior Lights Wire Sleeving and Routing

Tail Lights

More information about the tail lights may be found in the exterior lights post. I substituted LED bulbs for the original incandescent type; however, the wiring remains the same. In fact, I was able to reuse the original wire leads from each of the bulb holders. The upper bulb is for the flasher with a single wire lead. The lower bulb is for the regular lights plus an additional light for the brakes with a double wire lead.

Tail Light Wire Leads

Tail Light Wire Leads

Tail Light LED Bulbs

Tail Light LED Bulbs

Number plate illumination and reverse lamp

More information about the lamp may be found in the exterior lights post. The lamp includes one light for the luggage compartment, two bulbs for the license plate illumination, and one bulb for reversing. All original incandescent bulbs were replaced with LEDs. The original wiring harness for the lamp was in pretty good shape, but I constructed a new one with all fresh wiring.

Boot Lamp with new wiring harness

Boot Lamp with new wiring harness

Luggage compartment lamp

As my friend Eric Kriss points out in his MK2 restoration blog, the luggage lamp seemed to be an afterthought to Jaguar engineers. To function the light switch on the gauge panel had to be turned on, but it is often the case that one would want to access the luggage area after the car’s ignition, much less its lights were turned off! Instead of wiring the luggage compartment lamp in series with the front marker and rear tail lights, Eric revised the wiring to move the luggage compartment lamp to its own circuit. To make the lamp illuminate when the boot lid is opened a position sensitive mercury tilt switch is used. As Eric describes, when upright a ground connection is established permitting current to flow to the bulb. When the boot lid is shut, the ground connection is broken so the light goes off.Mercury Tilt Switch

 

Interior Lights

The MK2 as original had six interior lamps: the map light at the central gauge panel, a lamp at the top of each center or “B/C” pillar, a lamp in the cubby box and a lamp on each side of the rear of the car above the passenger seat. These latter lamps referred to as rear quarter interior lamps. My Mk2 will also have two courtesy lamps in the back of the front seat headrests. More information concerning these lamps may be found at the “Interior Lights” post.

As pointed out in the “Interior Lights” post, the replacement center pillar lamps are not exact replacements for the originals. They are operationally superior in that they provide an “on-off” switch at the lamp, and also because they screw, rather than snap, together. They just don’t look quite as nice being plastic rather than chrome metal. Just to check fit and to test the electrical system I did install the new center pillar lamps mounted on their wood bases. An additional grounding wire is used with the new lamp for its switch so there are three wires rather than the original two. For purposes of testing the electric system I temporarily fixed the third ground wire to the pillar as shown in the third photo below.

36 mm festoon bulbs in warm white were substituted for the original incandescent bulbs.The lamps are wired to the interior lighting circuit that includes the interior lamps toggle switch on the central gauge panel as well as the four door switches. The black ground wire is simply attached to the metal center pillar.

New three-wire center pillar lamp with switch

New three-wire center pillar lamp with switch

New center pillar lamp loosely mounted on wood base

New center pillar lamp loosely mounted on wood base

Temporary ground connection for center pillar lamp switch

Temporary ground connection for center pillar lamp switch

I trial fit the new, but as original, rear quarter lamps which required making new plywood mounting frames. Wiring for the rear quarter interior lamps initiates at fuse box to the interior lamp switch on the gauge panel and then proceeds through the LH and RH sills to the lamps. There is also a switch in each door that activates the interior lamps should any of the four doors be opened. I did not use wiring pigtails for these lamps. 36 mm festoon bulbs in warm white were substituted for the original incandescent bulbs.

Rear Quarter Interior Lamp

Rear Quarter Interior Lamp

LH rear quarter interior lamp

LH rear quarter interior lamp

I am using XJ40 powered seats in my MK2. The seat headrest lights were originally wired in such a way that they too illuminated when the car’s doors were opened. These lights also have an integral on/off rotary or dial switch. Without the central processor of a more modern car it would be all too easy to leave these lights on and eventually drain the battery. Therefore, I elected to wire these lamps to a switched power source rather than a constant power source like the other lamps. I did not use the terminal on the headrest light that would normally have a red/green wire to the door switches.

XJ40 Hedrest Lamp Installation

XJ40 Hedrest Lamp Installation

XJ40 Headrest Lamp Wiring

I was able to use the original door switches in my rebuild. I just rewired each of them with new wire.

Front Door Interior Light Switch and Wiring

Front Door Interior Light Switch and Wiring

The front door switch is mounted in the lower door hinge and travels through the kick panel to the switch.

Front Door Interior Light Switch in Lower Door hinge

Front Door Interior Light Switch in Lower Door hinge

Front Door Interior Light Switch Wiring through Lower Kick Panel

Front Door Interior Light Switch Wiring through Lower Kick Panel

The rear door switch is mounted in the rear side of the B/C post or center pillar. The wiring for the switch travels from under the front dash, through the sill and up the center pillar.

Rear Door Interior Light Switch in Center Pillar

Rear Door Interior Light Switch in Center Pillar

The Cubby Box lamp assembly wiring for Lamp/Switch consists of a metal base fixture, bulb, blue plastic cover and a switch controlled by opening the Cubby Box door. More images and information regarding the lamp may be found at the “Interior Lights” post. As with the other interior lamps, the original incandescent bulb was replaced with a 36 mm festoon bulb in warm white. Terminals on the back side of the metal lamp base connect to the fused power source and to the Cubby Box door switch. The image below illustrates the wiring sources and terminations for the Cubby Box.

Cubby Box Wiring for Lamp:Switch

Cubby Box Wiring for Lamp/Switch

Some Details on a Few Other Assemblies

The LH and RH Fascia Board Assemblies were installed in the car so as to test the wiring for the speedometer and its warning lights, the tachometer with the internal clock, the “Handbrake “ON” position and brake fluid container level” warning lamp, and the “Cubby” glove box lamp. More information on these fascia boards may be found at the “Dash” post. All gauge/instrument illumination incandescent bulbs were replaced with LEDs.

I first connected the left turn signal flashing indicator, the right turn signal flashing indicator, and the overdrive engagement indicator from the indicators wiring pigtail to the direction indicator/headlamp flasher switch. A ground wire for the indicators was mounted to the body below the dash.

Ground connection under dash for indicator lights

Ground connection under dash for indicator lights

Loose fitting of fascia board for tach install

Loose fitting of fascia board for tach install

I found it easiest to loosely position the driver’s side fascia board and I then installed the tachometer with its two mounting clamps, a ground wire, the 12 volt power wire, the wire connecting the tach to the coil and the two instrument lights. Leaving the speedometer position open facilitates accessing the LH fascia board outside mounting studs/nuts.

LH fascia board temporary install with tach in place

LH fascia board temporary install with tach in place

I then secured the LH fascia board to its mounts, followed by connecting the wiring for the handbrake/brake fluid level warning lamp.

I then connected the two speedometer illumination lights, the lights for the headlamp, ignition, and fuel warning lights, and the speedometer drive cable.

Installing the passenger side (RH) fascia board is much the same as the driver’s (LH) side. A sliding panel in the cubby box may be removed to provide access to the studs/nuts of the outside mounting bracket. The wiring for the “Cubby” lamp as shown in the write-up and image above is connected to ground and power.

Fuel Sender

The fuel sender has its own short wiring harness consisting of three wires in a protective sleeving. One wire for ground, one for the fuel gauge (the “T” terminal on the sender for 10 volts) and one for the fuel level warning lamp in the speedometer (the “W” terminal on the sender). The embossed terminal markings are evident on the image below. My sender has an “E” marking for earth, although my grounding wire was fixed to one of the screws used to mount the sender to the tank. While the original harness was in good shape, I made a new one for installation in the Jag when the fuel tank is fitted.

Original Fuel Sender Wiring Harness

Original Fuel Sender Wiring Harness

New Fuel Sender Wiring Harness

New Fuel Sender Wiring Harness

Fuel Sender Terminals

Fuel Sender Terminals

Warning Light for Handbrake and Fluid Level

Handbrake and Fluid Warning lamp Escutcheon

Handbrake and Fluid Warning lamp Escutcheon

The lamp is activated by a switch at the base of the handbrake, mounted to a bracket located on the interior floor. See: https://valvechatter.com/?p=3913 under the handbrake post, or by a level indicator switch in the brake fluid reservoir is shown earlier in this post.

Handbrake Warning Switch

Handbrake Warning Switch

The “Warning Lamp Indicating Handbrake ‘ON’ Position and Level in Brake Fluid Container” is comprised of the cover and window assembly, a spring washer on the central terminal post, with nuts and washers. Rubber sleeves are slipped over the white wire at the terminal and the white and red/green wires are contained together in a rubber sleeve of about 4.” The warning light was cleaned and reassembled and a new face plate was installed.

Warning Lamp

Warning Lamp

Hydraulic Fluid Reservoir, Low Fluid Warning Switch

The fluid canister contains a float activated level indicator switch in its screw cap.

Hydraulic Fluid Container Location

Hydraulic Fluid Container Location

Two wires attach the switch with spade connectors and are protected by a rubber cap over the indicator plunger. I sourced a new canister and indicator switch (cap) from SNG Barratt. The canister is covered in blue painter’s tape just to keep it clean during the restoration build. I was able to reuse the original rubber protective cap. An 18AWG light green wire is connected to one terminal. This wire joins via a 4 way snap connector with an orange 18 AWG wire from the handbrake switch. A single orange 18 AWG wire then connects to the LH Barrier Block Terminal #5B. A dark green wire from LH Barrier Block #5A connects to a 2 way snap connector with a red/green wire on the dash warning light pigtail.

A black 14 AWG wire connects to the other level indicator switch terminal and provides a ground connection to the chassis.

Hydraulic Fluid Container Wiring

Hydraulic Fluid Container Wiring