Dashboard Upholstery and Assembly

We were eager to see what the red interior upholstery was going to look like with the Cotswold Blue paint. The interior upholstered panels from Bugeyeguys arrived and so we set the panels in place to have a look. We are biased, of course, but we are more than pleased. We think we hit upon a beautiful color combination. The photo appears to brighter than the red actually is. The dash vinyl matches the interior panels and is a truer color depiction.

Interior panels

Next, it was time to wrap the dash in the matching red vinyl. We need to install the assembled dash in the car so that we can complete our wiring harness to the rear of the car. So after glueing the vinyl to the dash with 3M 77 adhesive we also installed all of the gauges and most of the switches.

3M Super 77 Adhesive

We held off on those items that extend through the firewall such as the water temperature and oil pressure gauge, the heater switch, as well as the choke, and starter switches/cables. In addition we covered the face of the hidden switch panel under the dash and installed its components.

Finally we made all of our electrical connections and temporarily installed the dash in the car. The entire process is shown in the Bugeye Restoration Episode Sixty-nine Video


The following steps are addressed in the video:

0:00 – Interior panels arrive

0:13 – Cockpit aluminum trim

1:11 – Dash vinyl applied

2:48 – Hidden switch panel

4:12 – Cutting holes in the covered dash

4:30 – Upholstery clips

5:00 -Grab handle and RH ground bus bar

5:30 – Washer pump install

6:18 – Ignition switch

8:18 – “D” and “F” connector harnesses installed

9:20 – Turn indicator warning lamp

9:30 – Fuel gauge

10:00 – Turn indicator switch

10:20 – Turn indicator warning lamp

11:00 – Fuel gauge

11:19 – Wiper switch

11:37 – Speedometer, tachometer, panel light switch and wiper rheostat knob

11:50 – Panel light switch

12:12 – Power inverter cube

12:18 – Dash wiring complete

13:44 – Disconnect instructions for dash removal from the car

14:55 – Completed dash

15:27 – Hidden switch panel

15:47 – Dash temporarily installed

And now on to the rear electrical connections and the wiring harness completion.


Bugeye Interior Personalizations

We have introduced a number of modifications in the interior to suit our interests. These are listed in no particular order below:

Gauges – Speedometer and Tachometer

The right hand drive connector for the speedometer cable on the Rivergate five speed conversion never worked well. Once the cable came loose and a second time the cable broke.

Rivergate Speedo Cable Adapter

Now seemed to be the perfect time to convert to the GPS speedometer sold by Bugeye Guy.

The unit is made by Speedhut instruments and apparently David at Bugeyeguy.com has a custom face made for the unit to look similar to the original Sprite gauge face. Details about installation including the wiring may be found in another post “A New Electrical System.”: https://valvechatter.com/?p=13986

The speedometer uses a gps sensor which routed between the driver’s door and the dash trim and is secured to the top of the dash with a magnetized plate.

Bugeye Guy GPS Speedometer

Bugeye Guy Speedo GPS Sensor

We liked the speedometer so much that we ordered the matching tachometer too!

Speedhut tachometer

Many of the electrical connections for the tachometer take advantage of the wiring loom provided with the speedo so that the tachometer can piggy-back for shorter wiring runs. Really happy with both of these upgrades. At first glance, the new instruments do look very much like the originals.

Hazard Switch and Lights

Of course, the Bugeye did not come equipped with hazard or caution lights. However, in today’s world and particularly with such a small car, hazard lights are really essential. The Classic Technologies relay/fuse box incorporates a hazard flasher relay system. We purchased a Lucas 155SA hazard switch to activate the system.

Lucas Hazard Switch

The switch is a push/pull type and incorporates a flashing warning light in the body of the switch. The switch will be added to the dash panel we built and is installed behind the dash.

The Lucas 155SA hazard switch was used in many British cars, and apparently the one we ordered was used in the 1974-75 triumph TR6 and the 1973-77 Triumph Spitfire. Details about installation including the wiring may be found in another post “A New Electrical System.”: https://valvechatter.com/?p=13986

Variable Speed Wiper Controller

Some years ago Ed Esslinger authored an article on a Sunbeam Tiger web site about a kit he put together to provide unlimited variable control of the speed of the Lucas wiper motor. We tried one of his kits on the Big Healey and liked it. Great for handling mist and light rain. Unfortunately it doesn’t make the wipers go any faster! 

We installed the control knob for the variable speed rheostat on the vertical panel we made and installed behind the dash. We took advantage of the blanking bolt nuts intended for the steering column bracket in a RH drive car as a location for mounting the  controller electronics. No holes were drilled in the chassis. Details about installation including the wiring may be found in another post “A New Electrical System.”: https://valvechatter.com/?p=13986

LED interior gauge lamps

All of the lights were converted from the original incandescent bulbs to LEDs sourced from Moss Motors.

LED Interior footwell and boot courtesy lights

LED interior footwell, map and boot courtesy lights operate remotely by a key fob or manually with a toggle switch on the panel behind the dash.  We ordered the RF Relay and key fob from Amazon. DieseRC 433Mhz Universal Wireless Remote Control Switch DC 12V 1CH RF Relay Receiver Module with 1 Transmitter, EV1527 Learning Code Remote Switch. Details about installation including the wiring may be found in another post “A New Electrical System.”: https://valvechatter.com/?p=13986

RF Courtesy Light Controller

The boot has two aimable LED lights. Each one is mounted on the LH and RH rear interior quarter panels. These lights were sourced from SuperBright LEDS. 

Boot LED Light


In the front footwells we also installed LED lights sourced from Better Car Lighting in the UK. 

Footwell Lights and Brackets

Turn Indicator Warning Buzzer

The turn indicator switch in the Bugeye is not self-canceling. While there is a warning lamp on the dash located between the speedometer and the tachometer, it is often not sufficiently bright to let the driver know to turn the switch to the off position. We installed a little buzzer sourced from Radio Shack to provide an audible alert when the flashers are turned on. 

Modified Windscreen Washer Pump (plunger) 

The Bugeye came equipped with a windscreen washer system that was activated by pushing a plunger mounted in the dash. The pressure created by pushing the plunger moved the cleaning fluid out to the windscreen. The process worked well enough, but when the Big Healey was restored we became aware of Stu Brennan, an owner of a Sunbeam Tiger, who had converted his hand activated pump windscreen washer to an electric washer. Stu’s idea was to put an electric momentary micro switch inside the aluminum pump canister thereby eliminating the need to install an additional switch somewhere. Since the washer in the Tiger is the same as the one in both the Big Healey and the Bugeye we decided to give it a try.

Two items needed to be purchased for the conversion. An electric pump typically used on later Sprites was ordered from Moss Motors.  A Home Depot switch was purchased, Gardner-Bender, Push Button, GSW-22, SPST always-off. Details about installation including the wiring may be found in another post “A New Electrical System.”: https://valvechatter.com/?p=13986

Washer Pump Parts

Under Dash Parcel Tray

Later Sprites and MG Midgets had a parcel shelf mounted under the dash on the passenger side of the car. We decided that it might make sense to add one to the Bugeye as well because there just isn’t much space for storing small items. The shelf was originally made from some type of fiberboard. We located a fellow in the U.K. who makes the shelves out of aluminum and for an extra commission will add the front rubber cushion to the shelf too. All at a very reasonable price.https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?item=116168223491&rt=nc&_trksid=p4429486.m3561.l161211&_ssn=bicycle55cps

This is an image of the shelf sans the rubber cushion. All of the mounting holes are incorporated. We will cover the shelf in red vinyl to match the interior.

Aluminum Parcel Shelf


Seat Belt Harnesses

Upgrading to shoulder harnesses was a must, but unlike the belts we had in the car previously, we decided on retractable units this time around. We ordered our belts from BugeyeGuys.

Red Retractable Seat Belts

While we generally try to do everything we can to avoid drilling new holes in the Bugeye sheet metal, it is required for this installation. Four holes in the interior floor and two holes in the rear wheel wells.

Seat belt mounting holes

Shoulder Harness Retractor Holes


This is a brief video showing the installed belts:



Chapter 42 Restoration Assembly, Week Nine 2/12/2007

I began the wiring of the dash instruments, gauges and switches with the water temperature and oil pressure gauge and moved across the face of the dash from left to right with the exception of the speedometer and tachometer which were left until the end. The openings for these two instruments provide access to the back of the dash.


The gauges/instruments were all rebuilt by MOMA and they did a beautiful job.

Before connecting the oil pressure gauge I inserted a new small leather washer that prevents oil from dripping on the driver’s leg! The washer was available from British Car Specialists. 

The following is a summary of the wiring connections I made. Although this worked successfully for me, in no way do I suggest that this listing is a substitute for the diagram in the workshop manual. Anyone wiring their own vehicle should consult the manual for proper direction.

Ignition Switch #22 – Brown/Blue wire to right terminal #1; two white wires to the left terminal #2, twist together.

Ignition wiring

Tachometer – Yellow and White wires to the tach light bulb; black double wire is the ground for the tach.

Fuel Gauge  #32 – Two solid green wires to terminal B; one green/black wire to the T terminal; red/white wire to fuel gauge light bulb.

Light Switch #25 – Blue wire to the S2 terminal; two brown/blue wires to the A terminal twisted together. The wiring to this switch was modified to permit the intermittent wiper control module to also turn on the lights when the wipers are activated. This simply required running a blue wire from the module’s relay to the S2 terminal, and running an additional brown/blue wire from the relay to the A terminal on the light switch. Details on this assembly were provided in the week eight blog installment. I also installed an in-line fuse into the red wire leaving the S1 terminal.

Overdrive Switch #39 – See the details in Heater switch below.

Flasher Warning Light #24 – Light green wire bulb

Speedometer #30 – Light blue/white wire light bulb. Two black wires to ground.

Wiper Switch #27 – These connections are modified to accommodate the intermittent wiper control. The white/yellow wire from the wiper control module is connected to terminal #1 on the dash wiper switch (replacing the black/green wire.)

The black wire from the wiper control module is twisted together with the black wire from the wiring harness and connected to terminal E of the wiper switch.

Starter Button #23 – two white wires twisted together to terminal #1; one white/red wire to terminal #2.

Water/Oil Pressure Gauge – red/white wire light bulb

temp & oil pressure gauge

temp and pressure gauge

capillary tube for water temperature

Panel Lamp Switch #34 – I decide to leave the panel lights on all the time which made the panel light switch available to be used to control the auxiliary driving lights.

Panel Switch 2

The single red and double red/white wires originally screwed to the panel light switch were connected together with bullet connectors and a double rubber connector sleeve.

panel lights linked

The ground is used in the auxiliary light wiring system to complete or break the circuit. A black wire from the relay is connected to the panel lamp switch and then a black wire is connected from the other terminal on the panel lamp switch to a ground connection on the firewall.

Heater – I am using a “modern” heater to replace the Smith’s unit under the dash. The new unit was available from Cape International. It uses a two speed fan that is internal to the unit. The Overdrive Switch is not used for that purpose on my car since I am using a Smitty conversion Toyota 5-speed gearbox. Therefore, I replaced the switch with a DPDT switch and used it for the heater control. The red wire (high speed) was fastened to one terminal of the switch, the orange wire (low speed) was fastened to the terminal on the other side of the switch, and the yellow wire from the supplementary fuse panel was connected to the central terminal on the switch to provide power to the unit. So I ended up with a convenient heater control without having a change in appearance of the dash or locate a switch in some hidden place.

Smith’s Heater Blower Fan – Since the new heater contained its own fan, the Smith’s Blower was available to be used as a blower for fresh air to the passenger (right side) compartment. I will discuss it further when I come to the installation of the new fresh air supply components.

Heater Switch #26 – The green/brown wire to the black bullet wire connector on the switch. The green wire to the black bullet wire connector on the switch.

Windscreen Washer Pump – I read a technical article by Stu Brennan, an owner of a Sunbeam Tiger, who had converted his hand activated pump windscreen washer to an electric washer. I like the idea because he put the electric switch in the aluminum canister thereby eliminating the need to install an additional switch somewhere. Since the washer in the Tiger is the same as the one in the Healey, I decided to give it a try. These links provide Stu’s instructions for his car and my interpretation for the Healey. The fused red wire is connected to the purple switched wire from the supplementary fuse panel. The other red wire from the washer canister connects to the washer pump. Elect Washer Pump Comp and Rose Elect. Washer Pump Comp.

electric windscreen washer 2

Washer Pump


Toggle Switch Panel – Try as I did, I could not find enough places to provide switch controls in original mountings (overdrive switch and panel lamp switch as examples) for every accessory or modification that I wanted to add, so I made a small panel out of aluminum stock  (1 1/4″ L stock) to house two toggle switches and an indicator light for the auxiliary lights.

Toggle switch plate

I mounted the switch panel to the front two screw posts for the wiper motor. I will still successful in mounting the switches without drilling any new holes in the car! The bracket is painted red to make it less obvious, although it is concealed pretty well anyway.

One of the toggle switches will be used to override the remote control for the interior/boot courtesy lamps. Using the remote “clicker” the lights stay illuminated for only 40 seconds, but the toggle switch can be flipped “on” to leave the interior lights on until flipped “off.” The second toggle switch will be used to activate the redundant fuel pump when needed. In the “up” position the original-type SU pump is activated. In the “low” position the second Carter pump is activated. In the center position neither pump is activated – a good ani-theft device!

Finally, an alert lamp is include in the panel that notifies the driver that the auxiliary driving lights are on.

Interior Courtesy Lamps – Purists will get another chuckle out of my addition of remote control courtesy lamps in the footwells of the interior and in the boot. Again, I did not want to drill any holes in the car for door jam switches so I thought, “why not use electronic remotes used in modern cars to unlock doors, open boots, and set off alarms to activate the lamps?”

Courtesy light right

The remote control system I acquired from Pyle was about $40.00. It included two remote “clickers,” the control module, and the wiring. I grossly underutilized all that the Pyle system makes possible, but I was after simplicity. I just cut off all the extra wires, but I can imagine a few other very practical uses. The button on the remote typically used to unlock the car (obviously not needed on a BT7 roadster) is now pushed to activate the interior/boot lamps. As I approach the car at night, I can click the remote and my interior lamps will come on for 40 seconds and they extinguish on their own with not other action required. As noted above, a toggle with is also wired-in to control the lamps.

Courtesy Light Install

The lamps are some fairly primitive incandescent fixture purchased from Victoria British, part #15-642, but sine they are not easily seen I was not too concerned about their physical appearance. I made some simple brackets and mounted them in the footwells on each side of the car, along with the control module and its relay. Again, placement of the lights was determined by available mounting points so additional holes in the car were not required. A boot light adapted from a period license plate illumination lamp was also installed.

Boot light

dash fascia



Gauges, Instruments and Switches

Gauges, Instruments and Switches

Smiths and Lucas

Lucas was the primary provider of things electric incorporated in the Jaguar MK2 and for that matter most other British cars of the period. Smiths, another British automotive parts manufacturer produced instruments/gauges, heaters, clocks and radios among other components. Eric Kriss, a fellow MK2 restorer, has an excellent history of the relationship of Lucas and Smiths on his Blog: http://fairislepress.com/WP/?p=3736.

The speedometer and tachometer are located immediately behind the steering wheel directly in the driver’s view. Most of the other gauges, instruments and switches are located in the Instrument Panel Assembly in the center of the interior’s dash.

I sent all of my instruments to Nisonger http://www.nisonger.com for cleaning, calibrating and refurbishing where necessary.


Nisonger converted the tach to a negative ground electronic tachometer. These are the instructions for installation:Nisonger Electronic Tach Instructions


On the MK2, the clock is located inside the tachometer. I removed the clock (loosening two machine screws on the back of the clock/tachometer) and sent it to Mike Eck,  [email protected] to have repaired as it was not functioning. He  also convert the clock to negative ground.





Speedometer/Speedometer Cable

I gently cleaned the speedometer and mailed it to Nisonger with the other gauges. It came back in beautiful condition.



As part of the preliminary install process I added the new speedometer cable – 96″ variety in the engine bay. It is secured by one clip just above the steering column. It is then routed over the top of the gearbox to the passenger side of the car. I have researched how the cable is to be properly secured under the car as it routes to the fitting on the gearbox, but as of December 2016 I have yet to learn anything definitive.  Consequently, I have temporarily zip-tied the cable to the fuel line along the passenger side chassis rail as seen below. The objective is to mount the cable in such a way that it has direct unimpeded access to the gearbox fitting with no cable binding. 

Speedometer Cable Install

Speedometer Cable Install

Speedometer Cable Mounting

Speedometer Cable Mounting

Instrument Panel Assembly

Instrument Panel Assembly

Instrument Panel Assembly

In numerous Jaguar models the interior designers incorporated a handsome centrally-located gauge and switch panel. The panel is made of pressed steel with a copper bath and is hinged at the lower edge of the panel. The hinges are mounted to fixed nuts in the bodywork by four 1/4″-24 x 1/2″  hex head bolts with shockproof and plain washers. Loosening two thumbscrews at the top of the panel makes it possible to easily rotate the panel to access the wiring for the gauges and switches at rear of the panel.

Instrument Panel Assembly Face

Instrument Panel Assembly Face

Instrument Panel Assembly

Instrument Panel Assembly

Following the removal of all of the toggle switches and instruments I cleaned the panel assembly. Amazingly the vinyl material on the face of the panel was in very good shape. However, I decided to replace it with a similar material sourced from Aldridge Trimmers in the UK. I did so because I plan to cover the mounting panel for the air conditioning central vents, located immediately below the instrument panel, with vinyl and I want the materials on the two panels to match. The vinyl was secured to the panel with 3m Super 77 spray adhesive.

While not the same as the original Rexine Leathercloth, the grain is almost identical. Eric Kriss researched the Rexine product determining that is was made by Rexine Ltd. of Hyde, England. The leathercloth was actually cloth “impregnated with cellulose nitrate, camphor oil, pigment and alcohol and then embossed to look somewhat like leather.” Eric located this wonderful advertisement for Rexine:



The lighting and identification label strip for the toggle switches is comprised of several components.These images show the diffuser screen after clean-up.

Diffuser Screen

Diffuser Screen

There are three bayonet style bulbs spaced evenly along the bottom of the panel assembly. I have replaced these incandescent bulbs with BA7 LEDs.

2 Watt Liliput bulb and replacement BA7LED white micro bayonet bulb

2 Watt Liliput bulb and replacement BA7LED white micro bayonet bulb

This is an image of my finished instrument panel assembly showing the new vinyl, restored gauges and switches:

MK2 Instrument Panel Assembly

MK2 Instrument Panel Assembly

As one can see, the panel includes four gauges: an electric water temperature gauge, an electric oil pressure gauge, an electric fuel gauge and a voltmeter. The car originally had a ammeter in the place of the voltmeter, but since I converted my car from the original dynamo (generator) to and alternator it made much more sense to install a voltmeter to monitor the electrical system.

Instrument Panel Assembly Gauges

Water Temperature Gauge

The Smith’s electric water temperature gauge has two electrical terminal connections. One, for voltage to the gauge sourced from a solid state voltage regulator (stabilizer) located behind the instrument panel, and the second, for the temperature input from the sensor located in the intake manifold. The voltage regulator reduces the voltage to the gauge from 12 to 10 volts. The gauge is illuminated by a dedicated BA9ES White LED, replacing the original incandescent bulb. The blue filter was removed from the gauge to provide an improved white light. The image below shows the original incandescent gauge light bulb and the BA9ES White LED now used in each of the gauges.

Original Incandescent Gauge Light Bulb and BA9ES LED

Original Incandescent Gauge Light Bulb and BA9ES LED

Oil Pressure Gauge

The Smith’s oil pressure gauge assesses pressure up to 60 psi. The gauge has two electrical terminal connections. One, for voltage sourced from the 12 volt terminal on the voltage regulator, and the second, for the pressure input from a sensor device (transmitter) located at the oil filter housing. To reduce signal noise for the optional radio, Jaguar incorporated a capacitor (condenser) with the sender. The gauge is illuminated by a dedicated BA9ES White LED, replacing the original incandescent bulb. The blue filter was removed from the gauge to provide an improved white light. Eric Kriss provides an informative diagram on his blog that illustrates the functional aspects of the oil pressure sender:

Oil Pressure Sender

Oil Pressure Sender

Fuel Gauge

The Smith’s fuel gauge works much the same as the water temperature gauge. The gauge has two electrical terminal connections: One, for voltage to the gauge sourced from a 10 volt terminal at the solid state voltage regulator (stabilizer) located behind the instrument panel, and the second, for the fuel level input from the sender located in the fuel tank. The gauge is illuminated by a dedicated BA9ES White LED, replacing the original incandescent bulb. The blue filter was removed from the gauge to provide an improved white light.


With the installation of an alternator replacing the original dynamo (generator) it makes more sense to have a voltmeter among the dash gauges. So I replaced the ammeter with a Smiths voltmeter sourced from Caerbont Automotive Instruments through Rogers Motors an ebay vendor.

One typically finds the voltmeter with a chrome half-“V” bezel, but Rogers will supply the full “V” bezel to match the bezels on the MK2, and it can be ordered in black. The only problem I ran into is that the black paint on the bezels did not match. The new bezel being too glossy. I took it apart and painted the bezel satin black – still too shiny. I then scuffed it up and repainted flat black – not shiny enough! Finally, I just took the bezel off of the ammeter and fit it to the new voltmeter and now all is well. Getting the black full “V” bezel was an extra $15.00. It comes standard with chrome. If you do what I did, save your extra $15.

The original instruments are in a metal casing. The new voltmeter is plastic. The bezel on the ammeter rotates and then slips off when the bezel tabs line up with slots in the casing. On the plastic casing you have to carefully bend up the bezel tabs and after installing on the plastic casing bend them down to grip the plastic. On the plastic casing there are no slots for alignment.

Voltmeter to Replace Ammeter

Voltmeter to Replace Ammeter

These are the installation instructions provided with the gauge:

Voltmeter Installation Instructions

Some notes about voltmeters from the mgaguru.com:

“The volt meter is a high resistance low current device which can be connected directly across the battery. In practice you can connect the earth side of the volt meter to any convenient chassis ground point. It is a good idea to connect the signal side of the volt meter to a circuit which is switched by the ignition switch, so it will be disconnected from the battery when the car is parked. It is convient to connect it to the output side of the ignition switch.

Connect the volt meter + and – terminals to battery + and – respectively. If you get it wrong the meter will peg on zero with power on. When correct it read near mid scale, hopefully a bit above 12 volts with engine running. When you blow the horn it will dip just slightly lower. When you crank the engine for starting expect the battery voltage to drop noticeably lower (hopefully not below 10 volts).

Additionally the volt meter can give you indication of the state of charge of the battery. Switch off all lights and accessories, switch off the engine, and switch on the key without starting the engine. If the volt meter reads 12 volts or more the battery is near full charge. If the volt meter is showing much less than 12 volts, then either the battery is somewhat discharged, or the battery is failing and in need of replacement.”


Switches and Other Panel Components

The instrument panel assembly includes six toggle switches, a rotary light switch, a starter button, the ignition switch and what Jaguar referred to as a “Cigar” lighter. The toggle switches are “off” when switched to their lowest position on the panel.

Washer  Switch

The washer switch is a momentary switch activated when the toggle is pushed upward. When released the toggle reverts to its lowest “at rest” position. The switch has two electrical terminal connections. One, to ground connected to a post on the back of the panel, and the second, to the washer bottle motor. My original switch was broken so I installed a new one from SNG Barratt.

Wiper Switch

I chose to upgrade my wiper motor with a kit supplied by Classic Motor Cars in the U.K. Installation of the wiper system is detailed in another posting: https://valvechatter.com/?p=6612

The kit uses a model 29 W Lucas Motor, part# 75967D that I believe was used for XJ series Jags in the eighties and early nineties with a modified original switch to operate the system. The kit also included new control boxes and a wiper rack cable. There are seven electrical terminal connections on the switch. One, to ground on the back of the panel, another to the fuse panel for power, and the remaining five wires route to the wiper motor for the two speed and park function.

Map Switch and Panel Switch Repurposing

The third toggle switch from the left on the instrument panel assembly was originally designed as a switch to turn on a map light that is provided just under the Screen Rail Capping Assembly (wood dash top). The panel switch (second from the right) was originally intended to alternate the panel lights between bright and dim settings. It is hard to fathom why Jaguar viewed this as necessary given that even the bright setting of the switch still provided grossly inadequate lighting, at least by today’s standards.

Eric Kriss, in his MK2 restoration, decided to repurpose these two switches to enable the possibility of an integrated hazard (flasher) circuit in his electrical system. With his permission and invaluable instruction I decided to adopt Eric’s modification in my own car.

Therefore, in my MK2, the panel switch sacrifices the bright/dim feature and is repurposed to control the panel and gauge lights as well as the map light. It then becomes possible to utilize the original map light switch as a hazard switch. The panel switch is a three position OFF-ON-ON switch. The middle setting is now used to turn on the three translucent strip edge lights on the panel as well as the gauge lights. The upper setting is now used to also turn on the map light.

The image below shows the original map light and also the new LED strip that will replace the single incandescent bulb:

Original Incandescent Map Light and LED Map Light

Original Incandescent Map Light and LED Map Light

Terminal #4 on the panel switch is used to connect to the power source at the fuse panel. Terminal #6 connects to the map light and terminal #7 has two wires with one connecting the four LEDs in each of the panel gauges and the other connecting to the three LEDs in the lower section of the panel to illuminate the label strip.

Hazard Switch

As described above the map light switch is repurposed to serve as a switch to activate the hazard flashers. I had actually purchased a new reproduction hazard switch but I never liked that it appeared as an “add-on” device and the warning was a bit complicated. Implementing Eric’s repurposing plan integrates the hazard function into the instrument panel assembly. The wiring connections for the switch are addressed in the post documenting the new wiring harness.

Starter Button Switch

The original starter button was cleaned and reused. The switch has two electrical terminal screw connections. One to the fuse panel, and the second, to the ignition switch at the ING terminal.

Ignition Switch

My original switch functioned just fine, so I decided to just clean it and reinstall. On my ignition switch there are three electrical terminal connections: B+, IGN and ACC. All three are wired to various positions in the Classic technologies fuse panel. The IGN terminal has a double terminal connector to permit wiring to the starter button switch.

Fan Switch (57SA)

The fan switch has three positions: the lower position is “off.” The middle position is “Low Speed” and the upper position is “High Speed.” The wire to terminal # 4 is the power source.  Terminal #8 is the high speed fan connection and terminal #6 is the low speed connection.

Interior (light) Switch

The interior light switch is a simple “ON-OFF” switch. Again, following Eric Kriss’s lead I have modified the interior light circuit. Originally, the switch when moved to the upward position activates the B/C pillar lights as well as the the rear interior lights and interacted with the four door switches. In our modified circuit, the cubby light/switch and the boot light/switch are included. The switch has two electrical terminal connections.  One to ground on the back side of the panel, and the second, to the various lights and switches incorporated in the modified circuit. Additional information about the interior lights may be found at the “Interior Lights” post.

Light Switch

The rotary Lucas three position light switch actually has four settings:

O – Off

S – Side/Tail/License Lights plus others if switched

H – S + Headlights

F – S + H + Foglights

Lucas Three Position Light Switch

Lucas Three Position Light Switch

Terminal #3 of the light switch has two connections. One, to the chime that has been added in my wiring plan to warn the driver if the lights have been left on upon exiting the car, and the second, to the exterior lights. Terminal #5 is connected to the fuse panel providing current to the switch. Terminal #6 is connected to a relay for the Fogranger lamps. Terminal #7 is connected to the floor dipper switch for the headlights.


Cigar Lighter

Jaguar incorporated a cigar lighter in the instrument panel assembly. I purchased a new cigar lighter from SNG Barratt and will use this as an alternative power supply for a 12-volt accessory plug. The lighter has two electrical terminal connections. One, to ground connected to a post on the back of the panel, and the second, to the fuse panel. The wire on the second terminal connects through a 4-way snap connector with a wire for the radio and for a supplementary USB port.


All vehicles today have chimes or alarms to alert the driver that the lights have been left on upon exiting a car. I thought it a good idea to incorporate this feature in the wiring schematic for the MK2. I used a very inexpensive chime available from Radio Shack, part # 273-071B. The chime is wired to Terminal #3 of the light switch and to the driver’s door (LH) switch. It is located on the back side of the instrument panel assembly.

Radio Shack Chime for Headlight Warning

Radio Shack Chime for Headlight Warning

Voltage Regulator/Stabilizer

Although new reproductions of the original Lucas voltage regulator for the instrument panel gauges referenced earlier are available, a better alternative is to use a modern electronic unit for greater reliability. It is available from CoolCat Express Corp: http://tinyurl.com/k9zayo2

These are the instructions for the installation of the voltage regulator:

SSIVR Installation Instructions

This little device receives fluctuating DC current from the battery and outputs a steady 10 volts to enhance the accuracy of the gauge readings.

Voltage Stabilizer Wiring

Voltage Stabilizer Wiring