Dashboard Upholstery and Assembly

We were eager to see what the red interior upholstery was going to look like with the Cotswold Blue paint. The interior upholstered panels from Bugeyeguys arrived and so we set the panels in place to have a look. We are biased, of course, but we are more than pleased. We think we hit upon a beautiful color combination. The photo appears to brighter than the red actually is. The dash vinyl matches the interior panels and is a truer color depiction.

Interior panels

Next, it was time to wrap the dash in the matching red vinyl. We need to install the assembled dash in the car so that we can complete our wiring harness to the rear of the car. So after glueing the vinyl to the dash with 3M 77 adhesive we also installed all of the gauges and most of the switches.

3M Super 77 Adhesive

We held off on those items that extend through the firewall such as the water temperature and oil pressure gauge, the heater switch, as well as the choke, and starter switches/cables. In addition we covered the face of the hidden switch panel under the dash and installed its components.

Finally we made all of our electrical connections and temporarily installed the dash in the car. The entire process is shown in the Bugeye Restoration Episode Sixty-nine Video

https://vimeo.com/960749153/8aa0edf407?share=copy

The following steps are addressed in the video:

0:00 – Interior panels arrive

0:13 – Cockpit aluminum trim

1:11 – Dash vinyl applied

2:48 – Hidden switch panel

4:12 – Cutting holes in the covered dash

4:30 – Upholstery clips

5:00 -Grab handle and RH ground bus bar

5:30 – Washer pump install

6:18 – Ignition switch

8:18 – “D” and “F” connector harnesses installed

9:20 – Turn indicator warning lamp

9:30 – Fuel gauge

10:00 – Turn indicator switch

10:20 – Turn indicator warning lamp

11:00 – Fuel gauge

11:19 – Wiper switch

11:37 – Speedometer, tachometer, panel light switch and wiper rheostat knob

11:50 – Panel light switch

12:12 – Power inverter cube

12:18 – Dash wiring complete

13:44 – Disconnect instructions for dash removal from the car

14:55 – Completed dash

15:27 – Hidden switch panel

15:47 – Dash temporarily installed

And now on to the rear electrical connections and the wiring harness completion.

 

Building and Testing the Wiring Harness

Yes, in building a new electrical system for the Bugeye we wanted to add additional circuit fusing protection, we wanted to add relays to take the load off of switches, we wanted to add “personalizations” for safety and convenience but perhaps as much as anything, we wanted to eliminate or at least minimize this:

Working Under the Dash

Anyone who has done it, knows that working on the dash wiring while lying on one’s back is just no fun in the little Sprite. So, we wanted to construct a wiring harness that would take advantage of modern electrical connectors (Deutsch connectors) to make it possible to essentially “unplug” the dash with all of its gauges and wiring in tact and remove it from the car. The water temperature/oil pressure gauge, choke cable and the heater switch complicate this proposition a little, but disconnecting them for removal are minor compared to lying on your back on the floor of the car!

The previous post, “A New Electrical System,” detailed all of the electrical system modifications we are making in the Bugeye. This post covers creating, testing and removing the central wiring harness that serves the engine bay and the dash. Three videos were created to show the process.

Later, we will build the wiring harnesses for the bonnet and for the rear of the car.

The following Bugeye Restoration video episode fifty-three covers the initial work done on the wiring:

https://vimeo.com/913981383/62234c4caa?share=copy

0:00 – Fuse box, power supply to fuse box

2:30 – Deutsch connectors, wiring routing

5:25 – Hella horn wiring

7:00 – Deutsch connector from body harness to bonnet harness

8:00 – Removing the harness from the car

9:00 – Disconnecting the wiper controller

10:00 – Harness removed from the car

10:25 – Taped harness

Bugeye Restoration video episode fifty-four covers the fabrication of a switch and control panel hidden behind the dash. The panel includes toggle switches for the radiator electric fan, the courtesy interior lights, the driving lights and the fuel pump selection. The hazard flasher switch, the rheostat for the wiper speed controller and a combination voltmeter and USB port are also mounted on the panel. The video then focuses on the wiring for the gauges and switches on the dash.

https://vimeo.com/913992798/07c6df6f44?ts=0&share=copy

0:00 – Supplemental control panel behind the dash

2:05 – dash wiring

3:12 – Fuel gauge

4:00 – Magnetic wiring clips

4:25 – Speedhut Speedometer and Tachometer

7:15 – Ignition and light switch

8:40 – Panel lamp switch

9:00 – Turn indicator switch

9:15 – Hazard flasher diodes

Bugeye Restoration video episode fifty-five covers the testing of the wiring circuits before the central harness is removed and taped.

https://vimeo.com/914010274/237d25f4f3?share=copy

0:00 – Testing the wiring harness and the connectors

3:00 – Wiper controller

3:10 – Toggle switches on the control panel

 

Dash

Dash Components

Air Distributor Box

Details on the box which sits below the dash can be found under the Heater post: https://valvechatter.com/?cat=103

Mounting Bracket for Radio Control Panel

This bracket shares the mounting bolts with the air distributor box, and mounts behind and above it.

Mounting Bracket for Radio Control Panel

Mounting Bracket for Radio Control Panel

Powder Coated Mounting Bracket for Radio Control Panel

Powder Coated Mounting Bracket for Radio Control Panel

Air Distributor Box Installed

Air Distributor Box Installed

Instrument Panel Assembly

While the speedometer and tachometer are placed directly in front of the driver in the MK2, the rest of the gauges and most of the switches are located in a central panel in the dash referred to as the Instrument Panel Assembly. The panel is mounted with two thumb screws at the top corners of the panel that when released permits the panel to swing out on hinges.

Information regarding the individual gauges, instruments, and switches may be found under the “Gauges, Instruments and Switches” post.

Instrument Assembly Panel

Instrument Assembly Panel

Newspaper Tray

The Newspaper Tray sits immediately below the gauge panel in the center of the dash.

Newspaper Tray

Newspaper Tray

It is secured with two #10-32 nylock nuts and two rubber washers on the mounting studs.

Newspaper Tray

Newspaper Tray

Newspaper Tray

Newspaper Tray

Newspaper Tray

Newspaper Tray

The newspaper tray has a grey flocking on the interior of the envelope. At this time I am not sure how I will replicate the flocking, but I am sure that I will figure out something. I media blasted the tray to prepare it for powder coating.

Newspaper Tray

Newspaper Tray

Newspaper Tray

Newspaper Tray

Right and Left Fascia Board Assemblies

For the purpose of testing my electrical system, gauges and instruments, I installed my yet to be refinished dash fascia boards. The driver’s side fascia board houses the Handbrake “ON” Position and Brake Fluid Container Level Warning Lamp,  the speedometer and the tachometer with internal clock. The speedometer includes warning lamps for high beams, low fuel and ignition charging. The passenger side fascia board houses

the “Cubby” glove box that incorporates a light that illuminates when the door is opened.

As the Service Manual suggests, fitting and removing the driver’s side Fascia Board is made easier (though not necessary) by dropping the steering column to the seat. The central instrument panel was already removed from the car.

Since this is not my final installation I did not install the small twisted (steady) brackets nor the top brackets for the mounting of the screen rail dash top.

Driver's side fascia board

Driver’s side fascia board

Passenger side fascia board

Passenger side fascia board

I did install the LH and RH mounting brackets to the wooden fascia as seen in the images above. The brackets were all cleaned, bead blasted and repainted before mounting to the fascia boards.

Fascia Board Refurbished mounting hardware

Fascia Board Refurbished mounting hardware

While I did not get a photograph of the wood when I reinstalled the renewed brackets one can see in this image that outside brackets for both fascia boards have studs that go through holes in the car’s body bracing and are then secured with “special” oval washers, split washers and nuts.

Driver's side fascia board outside mounting bracket

Driver’s side fascia board outside mounting bracket

The inside brackets for both fascia boards have rubber seals that I assume are to block light that might escape from behind the instrument panel. Two #10 – 32 x 1/2″ machine screws mount through the inside brackets into the car’s body.

Passenger side fascia board internal mounting bracket

Passenger side fascia board internal mounting bracket

 

Cubby Box Door Hinge

The Cubby Box Door Hinge is a chrome sliding hinge, being in excellent condition, I simply cleaned and polished the hinge. It is attached to the Cubby Box with four chrome slotted wood screws.

Dash Fascia and Gauges

When we bought the Bugeye, it came with a working tachometer and a dead speedometer. After thinking about having the original instruments refurbished or buying new ones I decided to buy new Smith’s gauges. Keeping the original tach would have involved installing the guts of an electric tach into the casing of the old gauge since we had previously installed an alternator making the original worthless since it had a mechanical drive off the back of the dynamo.

So the new gauges were ordered from APT Instruments, but it would be terrible to install them in the old dash so replacing old vinyl with new naugahyde was the only thing to do! I began the removal of the dash and proceeded slowly, carefully labeling the wiring to each instrument or switch.

I initially disconnected 2 orange/yellow braided wires to the wiper washer pump. Using a micro switch, my dad had previously converted the manual pump for the windscreen washer to an electric pump. Next was the heater switch. I disconnected a green/brown wire from the harness from a black wire to the heater switch. Then I disconnected a black wire from the heater switch body from a double bullet connector into a light green wire.

Washer Wiring

Washer Wiring

Washer Wiring

Washer Wiring

Heater Wiring

Heater Wiring

Heater Switch Wiring

Heater Switch Wiring

The turn signal wiring was next. The switch has three spade connectors. On the side with tow spades, a yellow wire attached to one and a blue wire to the other. A white wire was disconnected from the side of the switch with the single spade.

turn signal switch

turn signal switch

The Ignition Switch followed. The switch had four screw terminals. The top right terminal had 2 red wires joined together. The top left terminal had 1 heavy gauge yellow wire. The bottom right terminal had two white wires joined together and an red fused wire from the the electric fan switch that had been added. Finally, a large blue wire was disconnected the bottom left terminal. A previous owner had fabricated a clamping system to hold the ignition switch in place, that while primitive, did work. It will be replaced later.

Ignition Switch Wiring

Ignition Switch Wiring

Ignition Switch

Ignition Switch

Gauge Lights. Wiring for most gauges is red. The oil/water temperature gauge light fit into the retaining bracket sleeve. The tach light was also red, but this wire was ultimately discarded as it was not needed for the lighting for the new tach.

Oil and Tach Lighting

Oil and Tach Lighting

Oil & Water Temp

Oil & Water Temp

Tach lamp wiring

Tach Lamp Wiring

Speedometer Lamp Wiring

Speedometer Lamp Wiring

Wiper Switch. Disconnected the dark blue wire with a soldered tip from the right screw terminal, and the black wire from the left terminal.

Fuel Gauge wiring. One black ground wire was removed from the retaining bracket. A red/white wire for the lamp to the retaining bracket, a green wire to the left terminal and a green/black wire to the right terminal were all disconnected.

Fuel Gauge Wiring

Fuel Gauge Wiring

Panel Lamp Switch.

The panel lamp switch had three wires. Two red/white wires were joined and connected to the right terminal and 1 red wire was disconnected from the left terminal.

Panel Lamp Switch

Panel Lamp Switch

Radiator Fan Switch

Radiator Fan Switch

The radiator electric fan switch

Has three wires: the black ground wire was removed from the top spade terminal, the blue power wire from the switch to the fan itself was removed from the middle spade and the red wire with fuse to the ignition was also disconnected.

The Horn

Had one brown wire from the horn trim ring to the horn itself. The wire was disconnected at the bullet connector.

After removing the starter button and cable, the choke cable and the heater air control assembly cable, and the grab handle, the dash was removed from the car. Two ¼” hex head bolts secured the dash to the body on the left and right side. Two chrome phillips head screws fastened through two brackets from the firewall to the dash and finally one nut is fastened to a stud located centrally at the top of the dash.

Recovered Dash

Then it was time to recover the dash. I purchased some naugahyde at a local fabrics store and some contact cement and went to work. This is the result:

Fresh New Look

Fresh New Look

Reupholstered Dash

Reupholstered Dash

Horn Ring

Horn Ring

Reupholstered Dash

Reupholstered Dash

The new tach and speedometer

While not original design, the new tach certainly looks period. The tach required some new electrical connections.  One wire connected to the coil, another to the fused power block and one to ground. These are the installation instructions:Electronic Tachometer Installation Instructions

Smiths Electronic Tach

Smiths Electronic Tach

tach coil connection

tach coil connection

Tach Fused Power

Tach Fused Power

Tach Ground

Tach Ground

Coil White Wire

Coil White Wire

Finished Dash Installed

Finished Dash Installed

Demister Hoses

The old paper demister hoses had holes in them and obviously did not work well. With the dash off it was the perfect time to install some new hoses.

Left Side Hose

Left Side Hose

Right Side Hose

Right Side Hose

Aluminum Racing Pedals

My dad had installed racing pedals in the Big Healey and thought they did give a better pedal feel in addition to looking cool, so I bought a set for the Bugeye as well. They do look nice. I did not use the racing pedal for the accelerator pedal as it was just too close to the brake.

A Little Wiper Work

Planning on attending The British Car Fest in Buckeystown, MD on Sunday the 27th, so we needed to get a few maintenance items taken car of on the Bugeye. We had never reinstalled the wiper motor when we finished restoring the car so that was the first job. We pulled the dash off the car which may not have been required but it did make access much easier. After much trial and error with fitting it was figured out and the motor and wipers were installed and made functional. The sweep doesn’t seem to be sufficiently wide so a little more research is needed to determine how to adjust.

Dash Wiring!

Dash Wiring!

Wiper Box Left

Wiper Box Left

Wiper Box Right

Wiper Box Right

Refurbished Wiper Motor

Refurbished Wiper Motor

The brake lights were not working. I connected the two brake switch terminals with a wire and the rear lights functioned, so I determined that the switch was faulty. I put a little brake fluid in the new switch, quickly removed the old one and reinserted the new one. Voila! Brake lights returned.