Tag Archives: Water Pump

Cooling System Renewal – 3,600 miles on the odometer

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I noticed a very slight wobble in the shaft of the water pump that was ascertained when holding the fan at opposing sides and shaking. Since I am I the midst of a ten-year renewal I decided to go ahead and replace much of the cooling system to include the water pump, mechanical fan, the thermostat and gasket, both radiator hoses, the fan belt and the coolant. 

When I restored my car I installed the stainless steel flex fan sold by British Car Specialists. It seemed to work quite well, but was pretty noisy. I noticed that AH Spares was marketing a yellow asymmetrical plastic fan similar to the “Texas Cooler” fan which so many owners seem to favor.

Stainless Fan

Stainless Fan

AH Spares Fan

The water pump to be replaced on my car is not the original pump. I am really not sure who produced the pump I used when I restored my car. It does not have any external markings on the pump body. Michael Salter restores original pumps but does not want to deal with replacements so I purchased a newly produced pump marketed by AH Spares which is claimed to be superior to what is commonly available on the market. The pump, as unwrapped, is painted black so I roughed up the painted surface, taped off the vent holes and painted the pump and pulley “Healey Green.” A gasket is applied with the pump. I also ordered new water pump/engine block studs to install.

AH Spares Water Pump, Gasket, and Studs

I chose to replace both radiator hoses with Kevlar hoses from AH Spares. The bottom, or lower, Hose has a provision for the heater pipe.

AH Spares Kevlar Upper Radiator Hose

AH Spares Kevlar Lower Radiator Hose With Heater Port

The fan belt is an odd size attributable to the addition of the Delco alternator, but I found one through Amazon from an outfit called Global Power. The belt is a “V” belt 3/8″ x 43.”

Global Power V-belt 3/8 x 43″

Finally the thermostat. Having lived in Virginia with considerably cooler winter temperatures than Florida, I had been using a 195 degree thermostat. I took this occasion to switch to a sleeved 160 degree unit supplied by David Nock at British Car Specialists.

British Car Specialists Thermostat

That concludes the list of parts used on this project. Now to the removal of the old and the installation of the new!

My first step is to remove the stainless panel between the shroud and the radiator. This requires loosening the top radiator mount bolts so the radiator can be pushed rearward slightly. Then disconnect the bonnet pull rod by pulling out the split pin, followed by the four stainless self-tappers.

Radiator Front Stainless Panel

The radiator mounting bolts are metric. 6mm requiring a 10mm wrench. A zip tie is used to secure the coolant overflow tube to the radiator mount so that it cannot foul against the alternator fan.

coolant overflow hose

I then removed the four lower radiator mounting bolts all with 10mm wrench.

Lower Radiator Mounting Bolts

Disconnected the overflow hose from the radiator cap.

Radiator Overflow Tube Clamp at Radiator neck

Removed the radiator drain plug with a 6mm hex Allen wrench and drained the coolant from the radiator. With the mounting bolts removed and the coolant drained one can push the bottom of the radiator forward providing easier access to the lower radiator hose clip. I then loosened the clip with a 10mm socket wrench and freed the hose, of course, more fluid drained out.

Radiator Drain Plug 6mm hex

I then loosened the upper radiator hose bracket at the radiator, again with a 10mm socket. To remove the hose I had to loosen the upper mount for the radiator shroud. It is a 10-32 hex head machine screw.

Radiator Hose Clamp for Upper Hose 10mm

I Loosen the hose clamp at the thermostat housing and tilted the hose upward where I will leave it until I replace it with a new hose.

Upper Radiator Hose

Then I moved on to loosening the clamp on the lower radiator hose for the heater pipe. This clamp requires a 7mm socket. I then loosened the clamp for the lower radiator hose at the water pump  with a 8mm socket.

Lower radiator Hose Clamps

The next step is to remove the lower shroud mounts on both sides of the radiator which is connected to the lower radiator mount. This requires a half inch socket with a long extension for the right side.

Radiator Shroud Lower Mounts

I then disconnected the wiring to the electric radiator fan. This requires unplugging the electrical connector and disconnecting the clamp securing the wire.

Electric fan Wiring Connector

Electric Fan wiring and clip disconnected

I was then able to lift the radiator out from the car as well as the left and right baffles.

Radiator and Fan Assembly Removed From Car

Engine Bay Sans Radiator and Baffling

The next step is to remove the engine fan and its spacer. Four bolts with 1/2” wrench.

Engine Fan Mounting

I then needed to take tension off of the fan belt by loosening the alternator swing bracket and locking nut. The locking nut is 13mm while the others are 9/16”.

Alternator loosening points

Following removal of the old fan belt, I removed the nuts and split washers on the four water pump studs, gave the pump body a few taps and removed the pump. Again, be prepared for coolant spillage. The lower center nut is a bit hard to access, but it is doable. I then used a blade and some brake cleaner and cleaned up the surface of the block to prepare for the pump gasket.

Water pump removed

I removed the four water pump studs from the engine using my handy-dandy stud remover which worked beautifully.

5/16″ Stud Removal Tool

I then chased the threads in the block just to be sure that they were nice and clean.

Cleaning water pump stud threads

Then using the two nut method I installed the new studs with a little blue Loctite on the engine end.

New studs installed with a little blue locktite on the threads of the engine side:

Water Pump Studs Installed

After installing the new water pump using Permatex Water Pump and Thermostat Housing RTV silicone sealant and the new gasket, I then installed a new Gates 43” fan belt and tightened the alternator in place.

Water Pump, Pulley and New fan Belt Installed

While they were out I freshened up the two pieces of the fan shroud just a little sanding and some fresh paint.

Fan Radiator Shroud Repainted

I then loosely installed the shroud to the frame of the car.

Next was the installation of the new fan from AH Spares with four 5/16-24 x 7/8” hex bolts.

AH Spares Fan Installed

I then installed the new Kevlar radiator hoses. So they are ready to connect to the radiator once in.

New Hoses Installed

I lifted the radiator into position and loosely attached the upper two mounting bolts. I then raised the car on the lift to get to the lower mounting brackets.

I reinstalled the radiator drain plug, connected and clamped the lower radiator hose, and loosely fitted the four screws into the lower brackets.

Then the biggest challenge was to install the two air baffles around the radiator. I installed both from below. Difficult but got them in.

RH Radiator Baffle Installed

I then tightened the heater pipe hose clamp and the clamps for the upper radiator hose and the water pump hose. These need to be pretty tight to be effective and eliminate leaks!

Hose Clamps Installed and Tightened

I then raised the car and from the underside reconnected the electric fan and tightened the four lower radiator mount bolts.

Electric Fan Wiring Reconnected

I then purchased some new tubing from the local hardware store for the overflow hose to the radiator neck, installed the aluminum cover panel, and reconnected the bonnet opening rod lever.

I then backed up a bit and loosened the two nuts and lock washers on the thermostat cover and lifted it away from the head. I removed the old thermostat and cleaned up the mating surface on the head and the cover to prepare for the new gasket.

Thermostat seating in the cylinder head.

I decided to use a sleeved thermostat this time around to try to enhance cooling functionality. The following photo shows the hole in the cylinder head permitting recirculation of engine coolant to the engine. The sleeve of the thermostat blanks off the opening until the thermostat opens and coolant from the radiator is introduced to the system.

Coolant bypass opening circled

I again used Permatex Water Pump & Thermostat Housing RTV silicone on both surfaces of the gasket and installed the gasket and thermostat. I then tightened the two split washers and nuts and cleaned up around the edges where the sealant pushed out of the joint.

I decided while I was at it that I would check the accuracy of my dash fascia temperature gauge so I unscrewed the sensor from the head, freed the capillary tube from its two holders and put it in hot water and measured the temperature. While it didn’t exactly match the thermometer I was using in the hot water it was within a few degrees so I felt good about the accuracy of my gauge. I then put a little paint on the nut and reinstalled the sensor to the head using some yellow plumbers tape intended for oils.

coolant temperature sender reinstalled

The sensor nut is hard to access. I used a flare wrench to do the job.

Flare Wrench 5/8″

After buttoning everything up, I took the car out for a short trip around the block and then inspected the engine bay to make sure that I had no coolant leaks. Having none, I then went out for about a thirty minute drive to “heat-soak” the engine. All systems were “go” with no problems and the engine getting no hotter than about 165 degrees. 

Kent Lambert in Oregon located an original proper water pump (AEC206), pulley, key, lock washer and nut for me. It requires rebuilding so I have sent it to Michael Salter in Canada to have that job completed. I will then keep it as my spare water pump for the future! Thank you Kent and Michael.

Another ten-year renewal job checked off the list!

 

Chapter 75 Week Forty-Five October 22, 2007

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I continued with the assembly of various engine components in the forty-fifth week of restoration. I learned the hard way that the vacuum line from the intake manifold to the distributor needs to be one of the first items to install on the engine, not one of the last! However, after a number of trial fittings I did manage to get the pipe installed with only having to disconnect a few hoses. The copper pipe slips into rubber connector fittings at the manifold and distributor.

Vacuum Pipe RH side to distributor

Vacuum Pipe LH side to rear carb

The capillary tube running from the water temperature/oil pressure gauge to the fitting on the LH front of the cylinder head was the next item to install. Two small mounting clips and brackets were first mounted to head bolts securing the intake manifold and the tube was slipped under the clips, and the temperature sensing bulb inserted into the head and screwed home.

Capillary tube mounting

Given all of the typical concerns about overheating with the Healey engine, I decided to use a six blade aluminum fan sourced from British Car Specialists, The fan comes with an aluminum spacer to fit between the water pump pulley and the fan.

Stainless Flex Fan

The aluminum radiator and custom made air deflectors were the next pieces to go on.  The radiator was ordered from Cape International and I must say that the craftsmanship is superb. The aluminum deflectors I had made caused the radiator to be a tight fit, but with patience all components were secured into place. I put a light coat of black radiator paint on the front surface of the radiator to give a standard appearance when looking through the front grille. I am using a 7 lb radiator cap as was standard with the original radiator. I then attached the overflow tank hose as well as the lower and upper hoses to the head and the water pump.

Aluminum Radiator and Baffles

Aluminum Radiator and Baffles

Radiator Hose Top

I replaced the original copper hot water pipe with a polished aluminum pipe simply for aesthetic reasons. I like the look.

Aluminum Heater Pipe

Denis Welch makes a high quality (read, as expensive) throttle cable mounting bracket for a conversion from the original mechanical linkage. I did not use the complete Welch kit but I did use the piece located on the intake manifold. It is a well engineered design and looks like it belongs there. I incorporated a stainless steel sheathed throttle cable from Lokar. Fellow enthusiast Jack Brashear gave me some help on the optimal design for the accelerator pedal lever to which the cable is attached. I lengthened an original BJ8 lever to get the desired result. I previously installed the firewall bracket for the cable assembly.

Throttle Cable Bracket

Lokar Throttle cable

In my restoration, I converted to a BJ8 intake manifold and HD8 2” carburetters. This, of course, meant adding a dual choke mechanism as used on the BJ8s. The parts were sourced from Moss Motors. The choke bracket that converts the single cable from the dashboard fascia to the dual cables running to each of the carbs was mounted to the firewall and choke cables were connected. A small block provides the linkage for the single to dual cable. I drilled and tapped the ends of the remote control choke block for #6 set screws to ensure the proper return of the cables in the bracket since this is a common problem with HD8 carbs.

Choke assembly

Choke Assembly 2

Although Jack at Coachworks had installed the alternator with the engine rebuild, I had to remove it for the engine installation. I then put it back on the engine and wired it. Hendrix Wire Wheel provided photos and a wiring diagram to make this an easy job. The red wire on the alternator plug serves as a jumper to the screw terminal on the back of the alternator. The white wire on the plug was connected to the large yellow wire emerging from the wiring harness, originally intended for the large spade connection on the dynamo. The yellow/green wire originally connected to the dynamo was no longer required. Because the alternator output is more substantial than the dynamo, I elected to use a much heavier wire from British Wiring to run from the battery side of the starter solenoid to the screw post on the back of the alternator.

Alternator wiring

The final job of the week was installing the bonnet latch assembly to the car. I waited until the engine was in the car so that it would not impede the path of the engine as it was seated in the vehicle.

Bonnet Latch Assembly

Chapter 32 – Cleaning and Trial Fitting

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October 27, 2006

Jeremy’s Rotisseri

More Rotisseri Images –  The rotisseri really does make working on the underside of the frame so much easier. These are a few additional images of the assembly at work.

rotisseri 7

rotisseri 6

Rotisseri 9

rotisseri 1

anti-sway bar bracket

 

November 7, 2006

Jeremy’s Bodywork

Jeremy has continued to work hard on the final work on the frame/tub. He has done a very nice job with the judicious use of filler to give a nice finished appearance to the frame as if it was the body! Pitting on the outside of the kick panels and on the underbonnet inner fenders just looks great.

Frame blasted clean 1

Frame blasted clean 9

Frame blasted clean 10

fill primer 3

frame bodywork

frame bodywork 3

frame bodywork 2

frame bodywork 4

frame epoxy primer 1

fill primer 4

Final sanding 1

Final sanding 2

Final sanding 3

Final sanding 4

November 12, 2006

Engine Rebuilding

Water Pump – Although Jack Harper will be doing the engine rebuild, there are some items that I can take care of before I take the motor to him. I already sent the rocker arm assembly out for rebuild, and today I queried the internet healey list about their thoughts on the water pump. Was I better to rebuild my own or purchase an after market replacement? Those whose opinions I have come to count on recommended rebuilding my own and perhaps purchasing a new one to have as a spare. Bill Bolton, Peter Caldwell and Joe Curto were suggested as possible rebuilders. I had experience with all three but decided to call Peter since his lever arm Armstrong shock rebuilds will be on my car and because so many rave about the quality of his work.  He indicated that his company didn’t “officially” do water pump rebuilds, but they were getting ready to do a number of them and that I should send mine along His rebuild would be $75.00. I took mine off the motor – four nuts on studs and took the pully off the pump shaft. That required the use of the slide hammer, but was easily accomplished.

Water pump 1

Water pump 6

Water pump 8

Water pump 5

Aluminum Oil Sump – I ordered an aluminum oil sump from British Parts Northwest. After researching the sumps available from various suppliers. Others reported that the BPN sump did not require modification to the oil pump because it is a little deeper than the others. Of course, that also means it protrudes lower in the frame, but since my motor mounts are ¼” high I concluded that it would work best. Unfortunately, it arrived in pretty rouh shape with grinder marks on the exterior and some casting depressions. I sanded the body until most of the grinder marks were eliminated. Jeremy will glass bead blast and we will put a few coats of clear paint on it for protection.

aluminum oil sump 2

November 24, 2006

Jeremy’s Painting and Bodywork

Suspension and other little bits –  To take a break from sanding the frame, Jeremy turned again to finishing some of the smaller parts that are to be painted gloss black. The following images show some of the work.

small primed parts 2

media blasted parts 2

small parts black 1

rear springs blasted 1

flywheel ready to paint

Rear Springs painted 1

Rear Leaf Spring Assembly – The leaf springs were painted semi-gloss. I put a layer of teflon tape between each of the leaves to provide for smoother action between each of the leaves. It should help to eliminate creaks and moans later. The finished products looked very nice.

Rear spring glide strips 1

Rear springs teflon tape

Rear springs completed

Smitty Toyota Transmission Conversion and Clutch Assembly – I wanted to see how the conversion assembly was going to fit so I decided to rmove the gearbox from the bell housing and set things up. The lightened flywheel from Bill Bolton had been cleaned up and painted just for some rust protection. I inserted the aluminum pilot bushing with bearing pressed in by using my lead knock-off hammer and soft drift to keep from damaging the aluminum.

Flywheel Smitty Pilot Bearing

Crank Rear Oil Seal – I will be purchasing an improved crank rear oil seal which will require some modification of the backplate, but for now I just wanted to see how things were going to fit, so I used the backplate as it was. I then fit the flywheel to the crank. Although not in the image below, I will be using the flywheel bolt lockdown tab washers.

Engine Backplate

Flywheel installed 1

Then I installed the Pressure plate using the Smitty supplied clutch disk (thicker than stock Toyota) and centered it using the alignment tool supplied in kit. After installing the bell housing it became obvious that the throw out arm did not have sufficient travel without hitting the back edge of the opening in the housing. I will add some length (others have suggested about 3/16” to the pivot fulcrum to gain the travel required.

Clutch plate assembly

Bell housing installed

Clutch arm pivot 2

Throw out bearing clutch arm 1

Throw out bearing clutch arm 2

throw out arm 1

November 27, 2006

Back to the Engine Work

Tach Drive Housing – Detached the tach drive housing from the block. Three ¼” x 7/8” Hex head bolts with flat and lock washers. As per the manual, pulled out the gear drive with a 3” x 5/16” bolt attached to the threaded hole in the drive. Will need to install new rubber seals in the unit.

Tach Drive assembly 1

Tach Drive assembly 2

Tappet Cover Plates – There are three covers. The rear cover with the breather pipe is secured with one 1 ¼” x 5/16” hex head bolt with a copper washer and a cork gasket. The center cover is also attached with one 1 ¼” x 5/16” hex head bolt with copper washer and cork gasket. The front cover which is much heavier to support the weight of the generator is secured with five ¾” x 5/16” hex head bolts with copper washers.

Rear Side Cover

Center Side Cover

Front Side cover 1

Heater Water Valve –  Secured by two 5/8” x ¼” hex head bolts and washers.

Heater water valve

Blanking Plate – Located on the right side of the motor. Two hex head bolts 5/8” x 5/16.” Course threads with copper washers.

Blanking Plate

Oil Pipe Fitting, back side – One hex head bolt, 3/8” x 5/16” with copper washer.

Oil Feed Pipe

Oil Feed Bolt

Oil Pressure Relief Valve – One 1 1/8” (wrench size) hex head bolt x 3/8” long. Copper washer with spring and cup.

OIl Pressure Relief Valve 2

OIl Pressure Relief Valve 1

Plug for Oil Filter Feeder Hole – Right side of block. One 7/8” (wrench size) hex head bolt 3/8” long, with copper washer.

OIl Filter feeder hole plug 1

OIl Filter feeder hole plug 2

Union for Oil Gauge Pipe – Right side of block. Nut with pin hole. Fiber washer.

Oil Pressure Pipe Union 1

Oil Pressure Pipe Union 2

Block Drain Tap – Brass with fibre washer.

Drain Tap 1

Drain Tap 2

Carb Drain Pipe Brackets – Located at the second and seventh oil sump mounting bolts from the font of the block. ¼” nuts used to secure the clips.

Fuel Drain Pipe Clip 1

Fuel Drain Pipe Clip 2

Fuel Drain Pipe Clip 3

November 27, 2006

Jeremy’s Painting and Bodywork

New Seam Sealer and Prep for Chip Protector –  Jeremy finished the sanding work and installed seam sealer. 

Seam sealer finished 1

Seam sealer finished 2

Seam sealer 4

Seam sealer 1

Seam sealer 2

Seam sealer 5

Seam sealer 8

Chip Guard for the Wheels Wells – We decided to use a chip guard product in the wheel wells and will also use the same product under the front portion of the front shroud. It turned out very well, nice even coverage. The final red paint will then be sprayed over the chip guard so that it isn’t quite so obvious. 

Chip Guard 1

Chip Guard 3

Chip Guard 4

We also drilled access holes in the frame and outriggers and applied an etch primer as well as paint to protect against rust. I will need to decide if I will plug the holes or just leave them open.

Engine Work Again – I received the rebuilt rocker arm assembly from The Rocker Arm Specialists and could not have been more pleased. The installed the new pedestal with the threads for the oil pipe and rebushed the whole mechanism. It looks great as well.

Rebuilt rocker assembly

Rebuilt rocker assembly

Oil Pump Removal and Inspection – After dropping the oil sump and cleaning it up a bit, I removed the oil pump to inspect it. I think I will go ahead and replace it to be on the safe side. It is the gear type pump, but others have recommended the rotary pump and since the fit is interchangeable, I think I will take their advice.

Oil Pump 5

Oil Pump 2

Oil Pump 8

Oil Pump 7

 

 

 

 

 

Engine Cooling

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Engine Cooling

Water circulation is assisted by an impeller type pump mounted on the front cover of the engine, the system being pressurized and thermostatically controlled.

 

The Cooling System

The Cooling System

Water Pump and Pulley

I replaced the original water pump with a new “upgraded” unit sourced from SNG Barratt.

Water Pump 

An alloy “V” belt water pump pulley was purchased with the air conditioning components from RetroAir. It measures 5.65″ in diameter and is secured to the pump with four 5/16″ – 24 x 1-1/4″ hex bolts

Water Pump Pulley

 Belt, Driving Fan

I used a 1/2″ “V” belt ordered from Advance Auto Supply. I like to get expendable items like these at a common auto supply house when possible so that if the belt breaks I can easily pick up a new one. The belt in the image below is NOT the one that I ended up using. The belt rides on the crankshaft, water pump and alternator pulleys and it is a DAYCO 17415  13A1055 that is 41.5″.

Classic half inch V Belt 39.5 Inside Measurement and 41.5 Outside

Fan

I  installed a higher performance fan than the original. I purchased it from Guy Broad in the U.K. It is some form of plastic/nylon and each blade has a greater angle to catch more air than the original. Unfortunately, I found that to accommodate the air conditioning compressor without conflict, it was necessary to trim an 1/8″ off each fan blade. This was accomplished fairly easily. I will check, and adjust if need be, the balance of the fan before final installation.

Guy Broad Fan

Guy Broad Fan

Guy Broad Fan Trimmed to Fit

Guy Broad Fan Trimmed to Fit

Adding the belt tensioner pulley for the air conditioning also created a clearance problem with the fan blades. I installed four 1/4″ bushings/spacers between the fan and the water pump pulley to move the fan slightly forward.I used a very small amount of dum-dum to hold the spacers in place as I mounted the fan to the water pump pulley.

Fan Spacers with dumdum

Moving the fan forward the 1/4″ did not create an issue with the radiator! Because of adding the spacers I changed the original fan mounting bolts to 5/16″ – 24 x 1 1/4″ hex head bolts with flat and shakeproof washers.

Tensioner Pulley and Fan Blade Clearance

Radiator Fan Shroud

New fiberglass fan shrouds can be purchased from SNG Barratt. I found it necessary to modify the shroud slightly to provide clearance for the air conditioning compressor, the lower radiator tank  hose fitting and for the crankshaft pulley. 

Fan Shroud Opening Modification to accommodate the Sanden Compressor

Fan Shroud Opening Modification for the lower radiator hose fitting

The shroud is secured to the radiator by fastening it to four 5/16″ – 24 studs on the radiator using stainless flat washers, shakeproof washers and hex nuts. the slots cut into the shroud from the manufacturer were not sufficiently large to fit properly so each of the four mounting holes was somewhat enlarged using a dremel tool.

Enlarged Fan Shroud Mounting Holes

After a trial fitting of the shroud I found that I did not like the original silver/grey color of the shroud and painted it gloss black to match the upper radiator tank.

Radiator

I had chosen to replace the original radiator with an aluminum unit made by Wizard to improve cooling and assist with the air conditioning system. I purchased the radiator from RetroAir with my other air conditioning components. It looked beautiful!

I ended up not using the Wizard unit because it did not fit properly. It sat too high, contacting the bonnet, and because of the wider upper tank it did not allow sufficient space for the wiring harness that travels across the front of the radiator from the LH valance to the RH valance. A sad and expensive lesson. I could have modified the aluminum unit to fit but could not solve the wiring harness problem to my satisfaction.

I decided to return to my original radiator but had it recored by Blue Sky Radiator with a modern cooling matrix. I painted the sides of the assembly and the lower tank with POR-15 after using their metal prep product. I then used progressively finer sandpaper to prepare the upper tank surface and then painted it with a Duplicolor self etching primer (three coats) and Duplicolor Engine High Temperature Gloss Black spray paint (also three coats). I just lightly dusted the front of the core with the high temperature paint as I wanted to avoid affecting the heat radiation properties of the radiator to the extent possible. I did not paint the rear face of the core. I was pleased with the results:

Painted and Recored Original Radiator

Painted and Recored Original Radiator

Installing the Radiator and Shroud

After the fan is mounted to the water pump pulley, it is necessary to loosely position the shroud over and behind the fan.

Fan Shroud in Position for Radiator Install

LH and RH rubber pads and distance tubes for mounting the radiator block to the car need to be located in the mounting holes in the frame.

Radiator Mounting Rubber Pads, Distance Tubes, and special washers

One can then carefully manipulate (not quite as easy as it sounds) the radiator downward as the fan blade is turned by hand. The radiator lower mounting studs need to fit into the rubber pads and distance tubes and then through the frame. Once the radiator is in place, another rubber pad, the special washer and a 3/8″ nylock nut can be loosely secured to the mounting stud. The shoulders on the rubber pads need to face the hole in the frame.

Rubber Pad, Distance Tube, Special Washer and 3/8″ Nylock Nut Lower Radiator Mount

Once the lower mounting hardware is fastened, the two upper mounts on the LH and RH sides of radiator can be secured using the special 3/8″ – 24 bolts, rubber pads and distance tubes. I had cleaned these special purpose bolts and had them zinc plated.

With the four radiator mounting points all secured, the fan shroud can then be mounted to the four radiator studs using flat and shakeproof washers with 5/16″-24 hex head nuts. I then back-tracked and tightened down all the fittings.

Both the upper and lower radiator hoses can then be fitted to the radiator and Jubilee Clips tightened.

Hose from Bottom of Radiator Block to Water Pump with Size 2A Jubilee hose clip

The images below show the radiator assembly with the black fan shroud mounted in the car:

Radiator, Fan Shroud and Upper Hose in Place

As can be seen in the image above, Jaguar provided an overflow outlet from the radiator neck. I attached and clamped a 5/16″ drain hose from the outlet. For the moment I have it draining to the ground as I am not sure if it will be needed. I plan to use Evans Waterless Coolant in my car. The Evans product supposedly produces very little pressure. This is a subject I will address in greater detail later. Should I find that the drain is needed I will find a place SOMEWHERE for a collector bottle. The image below shows the drain hose and clamp used.

Radiator Coolant 5/16″ Drain Hose

Radiator Drain Tap

I disassembled the brass drain tap and after cleaning and lubricating I reinstalled it in the refurbished radiator. I did not have a fabric washer that fit so I used a rubber “O” ring. The drain tap is not installed in the radiator until AFTER the radiator is mounted in the car. Otherwise it becomes an obstacle in mounting the radiator.

Drain Tap for Radiator Block with rubber O ring

As originally configured, Jaguar provided a proper remote control for the drain tap, allowing the owner to open the drain valve by simply turning the control rod rather than crawling under the car. See the image below. Unfortunately, I am unable to use this control rod because its mounting bracket contacts the air conditioning compressor. I will just have to crawl under the car an operate the drain tap by hand!
control-rod-assembly-operating-drain-tap-1

 

Hoses and Temperature Sender

I replaced all rubber in the car including the heater and engine cooling hoses. Here are the three primary coolant hoses with new Jubilee clamps. The top water hose, from radiator block to water pump, the hose from the bottom of radiator block to water pump, and the by-pass water hose.

Primary Coolant Hoses

Primary Coolant Hoses

I debated for some time about where to install the water temperature sending unit to control the operation of the electric fan. These are typically placed in the engine, on the lower radiator tank, the upper radiator tank, or in an especially designed coupler inserted into the upper radiator hose. I decided against modifying the original radiator and ultimately chose to use a hose coupler. I cut the upper 1-1/2″ hose and inserted the coupler. The clamps are 32-50mm.

Fan Thermo Switch in Hose Coupler

I used a SPAL Automotive USA IX-185-2TS Fan Sending Unit purchased from Summit Racing Equipment https://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=SPU-IX-1852TS.  It threads into the coupler with a 3/8″-18 NPT thread and turns off at 165 degrees F., and turns on at 185 degrees F. I liked this switch because it has a separate wire to ground rather than relying on the body of the switch for ground. The aluminum coupler was purchased on ebay: Radiator Sensor Tube Adapter Water temperature Gauge 1-1/2″ OD 3/8″ NPT (141025992422).

SPAL Thermo Switch

The Adaptor, In Inlet Manifold, For Water Feed to Heater Unit

The original Adaptor, In Inlet Manifold, For Water Feed to Heater Unit was corroded badly, so I replaced the adaptor with a new one sourced from SNG Barratt, including a new fiber washer.

Adaptor In Inlet Manifold for Water Feed to Heater Unit

Adaptor In Inlet Manifold for Water Feed to Heater Unit

Radiator Cap

The MK2 used a 4 lb. cap originally and may have gone to a 7 lb. cap later in production. I am not sure. I sourced a new 7 lb. cap from M&C Wilkinson in the U.K. for my MK2. It is important to get the proper length cap so as to achieve the right seal in the radiator neck.

7 lb. Radiator Cap