Tag Archives: aluminum radiator

Cooling/Heater

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Managing the heat generated by the operating engine, whether in the engine itself, in the engine bay, or in the interior is an issue in the Big Healey. What may not have been an issue in more temperate Great Britain, is a different story in the U.S. Over the years Healey owners have gotten progressively better at managing the heat issues. I made a number of enhancements to The Bloody Beast to help with cooling or at least improved insulation from the heat.

 The Original Cooling System

The capacity of the cooling system, excluding the heater, is 21.6 U.S. pints. The original thermostat was 158 degrees.

Cooling System Modifications

Aluminum Radiator

Recoring the original radiator with a more efficient tubing system is one option pursued by many enthusiasts, another is replacement of the original radiator with an aluminum alternative.  I chose the replacement route with an alloy radiator sourced from Cape International. In addition to the benefit of improved cooling, the polished aluminum header tank looks great in the engine bay! I painted the core with black radiator paint so that the “X” brace in the front of the car would “disappear” when looking through the grille.

Aluminum Radiator

Aluminum Radiator

Air-Intake Deflectors

The Healey has a multi-piece air-intake deflector assembly as original equipment; however, I was not happy with the gap that exists between the assembly shrouds and the radiator. This permitted air to escape around the radiator into the engine bay. The original deflectors are also a bit of a pain to install. I decided to fabricate some deflectors from aluminum stock. After constructing cardboard patterns I had the aluminum bent at a metal working shop. The deflectors are slotted to fit alongside the radiator in the standard radiator mounts to the frame. The image below shows the fitting of the deflectors before the radiator core was painted. As you can see this produced a tight fit around the radiator sides – no air escapes now!

Radiator Baffles

Radiator Baffles

Upper Radiator Shroud

My friend, Mick Nordquist, had an upper shroud made for his Healey radiator to keep the air coming through the grill directed to the radiator rather than escaping over the radiator. He supplied the pattern for me and I had one cut with a plasma cutter from 2mm aluminum plate and installed it with four stainless steel #8 self-tapping screws. In addition to improving cooling, I think it also offers a nice cosmetic improvement.

Radiator Top Shroud

Radiator Top Shroud

Coolant Recovery System

The original cooling system design provided for no ability to capture coolant whether just an expansion tank or a true pressurized recovery system. Healay owners, particularly if they have filled their radiators to maximum capacity are use to their car’s “burping” in the parking lot after being driven. I purchased my coolant recovery system components from Cape International.

Coolant Recovery System

Coolant Recovery System

Six Blade Stainless Steel Fan with Spacer

A number of alternatives to the original fan are available to the Healey owner today. The “Texas Cooler” and the variable pitch stainless steel fans are probably the most popular. I initially decided to go with the stainless fan available from British Car Specialists. However, the fan is pretty noisy so I switched the fan in 2020 for a nylon/plastic asymmetric fan similar to the “Texas Cooler” fan. The new fan was sourced from AH Spares. Time will tell but the new fan seems to keep the engine temperature under control and it is quite a bit quieter than the stainless steel fan.

Stainless Fan

Stainless Fan

AH Spares Fan

Fan Shroud

The custom air deflectors improved air control on the intake side of the radiator. To help channel the air on the fan side of the radiator and to add a safety component (those stainless fan blades are very sharp!!) I added a two piece shroud also available from British Car Specialists. It did not fit exactly as it would to the stock radiator, but a little tinkering and it fit beautifully. Since it was added after the restoration of the Bloody Beast was completed, I can say that the shroud was definitely responsible for some additional temperature reduction.

Radiator Shroud

Radiator Shroud

Radiator shroud

Radiator shroud

The Original Heater/Interior Cooling

The original heater was a Smith’s hot water circulating unit, part # 8G9048. It was assisted by a fan blower secured to the right front wheel arch assembly. Fresh air was supplied to the driver’s side of the interior by a 4” paper/metal hose controlled by a fresh air assembly mounted at the front of the car.

Heater/Interior Cooling Modifications

Sealing all of the holes in the firewall is the first thing to be done if one is to keep the heat and fumes out of the interior. A helpful tip someone shared with me was to wait until dark and put a light in the engine bay. This way any holes or leaks can be easily spotted from the interior.

Dynamat Extreme and Aluminum Duct Insualtion

A number of products are on the market to help reflect heat and offer both heat and sound insulation. Dynamat Extreme is certainly on of the most popular. I applied Dynamat Extreme heat reflective and sound insulation material to my interior first. I then applied aluminum duct insulation on top of the Dynamat and under the carpet. All seams were sealed with aluminum tape. These two together have proven to be very effective in keeping the heat out!

Dynamat Extreme

Dynamat Extreme

Aluminum Duct Insulation

Aluminum Duct Insulation

Modern Heater

For those (rare) occasions when I would choose to have more heat in the interior spaces, I chose to replace the Smith’s Heating unit with a contemporary unit supplied by Cape International. This unit has an internal two speed fan.

Cape International Heater

Cape International Heater

Fresh Air Supply

The original design of the car provided for some fresh air being delivered to the LH driver’s side of the car. Given that the Cape International Heater has its own fan, that left the original Smith’s blower to be used to blow fresh air into the passenger side of the car. I installed an air intake valve (upside down) just like the one on the LH side of the car, on the RH side, and then wired the blower to provide fresh air on the passenger side when desired. To be honest, I have found this to be useful for some ventilation when one has the hardtop in place, otherwise I am not sure that it was worth the effort! There are more details about this project in the restoration blog.

Ventilation Hose Assembly

Ventilation Hose Assembly

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Chapter 75 Week Forty-Five October 22, 2007

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I continued with the assembly of various engine components in the forty-fifth week of restoration. I learned the hard way that the vacuum line from the intake manifold to the distributor needs to be one of the first items to install on the engine, not one of the last! However, after a number of trial fittings I did manage to get the pipe installed with only having to disconnect a few hoses. The copper pipe slips into rubber connector fittings at the manifold and distributor.

Vacuum Pipe RH side to distributor

Vacuum Pipe LH side to rear carb

The capillary tube running from the water temperature/oil pressure gauge to the fitting on the LH front of the cylinder head was the next item to install. Two small mounting clips and brackets were first mounted to head bolts securing the intake manifold and the tube was slipped under the clips, and the temperature sensing bulb inserted into the head and screwed home.

Capillary tube mounting

Given all of the typical concerns about overheating with the Healey engine, I decided to use a six blade aluminum fan sourced from British Car Specialists, The fan comes with an aluminum spacer to fit between the water pump pulley and the fan.

Stainless Flex Fan

The aluminum radiator and custom made air deflectors were the next pieces to go on.  The radiator was ordered from Cape International and I must say that the craftsmanship is superb. The aluminum deflectors I had made caused the radiator to be a tight fit, but with patience all components were secured into place. I put a light coat of black radiator paint on the front surface of the radiator to give a standard appearance when looking through the front grille. I am using a 7 lb radiator cap as was standard with the original radiator. I then attached the overflow tank hose as well as the lower and upper hoses to the head and the water pump.

Aluminum Radiator and Baffles

Aluminum Radiator and Baffles

Radiator Hose Top

I replaced the original copper hot water pipe with a polished aluminum pipe simply for aesthetic reasons. I like the look.

Aluminum Heater Pipe

Denis Welch makes a high quality (read, as expensive) throttle cable mounting bracket for a conversion from the original mechanical linkage. I did not use the complete Welch kit but I did use the piece located on the intake manifold. It is a well engineered design and looks like it belongs there. I incorporated a stainless steel sheathed throttle cable from Lokar. Fellow enthusiast Jack Brashear gave me some help on the optimal design for the accelerator pedal lever to which the cable is attached. I lengthened an original BJ8 lever to get the desired result. I previously installed the firewall bracket for the cable assembly.

Throttle Cable Bracket

Lokar Throttle cable

In my restoration, I converted to a BJ8 intake manifold and HD8 2” carburetters. This, of course, meant adding a dual choke mechanism as used on the BJ8s. The parts were sourced from Moss Motors. The choke bracket that converts the single cable from the dashboard fascia to the dual cables running to each of the carbs was mounted to the firewall and choke cables were connected. A small block provides the linkage for the single to dual cable. I drilled and tapped the ends of the remote control choke block for #6 set screws to ensure the proper return of the cables in the bracket since this is a common problem with HD8 carbs.

Choke assembly

Choke Assembly 2

Although Jack at Coachworks had installed the alternator with the engine rebuild, I had to remove it for the engine installation. I then put it back on the engine and wired it. Hendrix Wire Wheel provided photos and a wiring diagram to make this an easy job. The red wire on the alternator plug serves as a jumper to the screw terminal on the back of the alternator. The white wire on the plug was connected to the large yellow wire emerging from the wiring harness, originally intended for the large spade connection on the dynamo. The yellow/green wire originally connected to the dynamo was no longer required. Because the alternator output is more substantial than the dynamo, I elected to use a much heavier wire from British Wiring to run from the battery side of the starter solenoid to the screw post on the back of the alternator.

Alternator wiring

The final job of the week was installing the bonnet latch assembly to the car. I waited until the engine was in the car so that it would not impede the path of the engine as it was seated in the vehicle.

Bonnet Latch Assembly

Chapter 57 Restoration Assembly, Week Twenty-Seven 6/18/2007

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Roger, aka AUSMHLY, on the British Car Forum used a Volkswagon Jetta cup holderon his BJ8. While it doesn’t work quite as well on the BT7 because the parcel tray is mounted below and behind the dash fascia, I bought the same cup tray on eBay and mounted it to the parcel tray. I used some 3/4” aluminum bracket mounted to the tray with #10 nutserts and glued the aluminum brackets to the cup holder with JB Weld. After the initial install, I decided the looks would be improved by covering the little plastic cup holder door with the same vinyl as on the dash fascia. It will work well with 12 ounce cans and small bottles for those long hot road trips. Thanks to Roger for the tip!

Cup holder bracket 1

Cup holder bracket 2

JB Weld Aluminum bracket 3

Vinyl Covered cup holder door 8

Cup holder in Action 6

The front splash panels were next on my short list to install. Four #8 SS sheet metal screws were used for each panel.

Splash panel RH

Splash Panel LH

Splash Panel Bracket

I fabricated a pair of radiator baffles to help funnel air to the radiator. Unlike the original system, these don’t permit air to escape to the sides of the radiator. I had seen the applied idea at Conclave a few years ago on Keith Pennell’s car. He graciously sent cardboard templates to me. I modified them slightly and had a local shop cut them out of aluminum for me.

I installed the Cape International aluminum radiator and the baffles for fit. I will need to pull them out before the engine goes in. When I do pull them, I will bend the “wings” of the baffles outward a bit.

Radiator Baffles 1

Radiator Baffles 2

Radiator Baffles 3

Radiator Baffles 5

I reviewed all my remaining parts and located three items that I could put in place although they cannot be finally installed until later when I install the body panels and windscreen. The first was the steering column steady bracket and the second was the small tapped steel plate for the mounting of the front of the rear wings.  Finally, the pair of splash panel bracketsthat mount to the grill and shroud were attached.

Steering Column Steady Bracket 2

wing mounting plate

Just so I won’t forget later, I went ahead and greased the grease fittings on the front suspension/steering and the handbrake. Now I am already to go once the work on the engine is complete.

Chapter 16 – Cleaning and Trial Fitting

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November 16, 2003

Front Suspension 

Control Arms and Bushings – Installed left and right lower control arms with rubber bushings and fulcrum pins.

Left control arm 3

Right Control Arm 2

left control arm 1

Left control arm 2

December 14, 2003

Steering

Steering Box and Idler – Picked up the painted steering box and steering idler from Jeremy Turner. Jack Harper disassembled the units and reassembled following painting. Jeremy did a great job on the steering wheel shaft as it was pitted near the box. Installed the Box and idler. Note for future – install box and idler before front brake hose bracket, as the bolts/nuts get in the way.

Steering Box Installed

Steering Box In Place – Fill Plug & Adjuster

Steering Idler in Place

Steering Idler Installed with Aluminum Spacer

Steering Column with Brace

January 10, 2004

Blistein Tube Shock Conversion 

Rear Tube Shock Conversion

Installed Udo Putzke’s Blistein tube shock conversion kit in the rear suspension. Two fabricated brackets on each side of the rear of the car. Original lever shock is abandoned completely in the process. Couldn’t complete the final connections because when the leaf springs were jacked up to align the shock for fastening, the entire car raised since the engine is not in the car, thereby giving it sufficient weight. Will have to complete later in the assembly process. Rear tube shock is F4-BE3-2577-HO. The brackets will need to be painted for final assembly. They should be installed prior to the fuel pump.

Tube shocks rear 4

Tube shocks rear 6

Tube shocks rear 2

Front Tube Shock Conversion

Installed Udo Putzke’s Blistein tube shock conversion kit in the front suspension. Two fabricated brackets on each side of the front of the car. Original lever shock is utilized in the process. To make sure the lever shocks would not leak fluid in the future, they were rebuilt by World Wide Imports in Madison, Wisc. The valves are removed from each damper. The standard bolts are used to secure the damper nearest the motor. Supplied long bolts and support rods are used for the outside two mounts. Front tube shock is F4-BE3-2576-HO. The brackets will need to be painted for final assembly. 

lever shock valving

front tube shock conversion 2

front tube shock conversion 1

Aluminum Radiator  – Installed a new aluminum radiator from Cape International. Christmas gift from Jude. It is a piece of art, almost hate to put it in the car! Fit was perfect, although mounting fittings were metric. Easy installation is to loosen lower brackets on frame, secure top two bolts first, then secure lower bolts to radiator. Finally, tighten lower brackets to frame. Pull unit to front of car when tightening to get maximum clearance for fan.

Aluminum Radiator 3

Aluminum Radiator 2

Aluminum Radiator 1

Aluminum Radiator 4