Engine Mounting

Engine Mounting

Rear Engine Stabiliser

The rear of the engine is attached to the firewall (dash) of the car via a stabilising link with a rubber bushing and a rear mount on the firewall with a rubber bushing. I cleaned both components and installed new bushings.

Stabilising Link at Rear of Cylinder Block, Bush, Stepped Washer, Stepped Bush, Nut

Stabilising Link at Rear of Cylinder Block, Bush, Stepped Washer, Stepped Bush, Nut

The rubber mounting for the stabiliser link needed to be replaced. I purchased a new one and had the link zink plated. This image shows the mounting and the link as an assembly.

Rear Engine Stabiliser Assembly

Rear Engine Stabiliser Assembly

Engine Stabiliser

Engine Stabiliser

As can be seen in the illustration above, the stabiliser link is secured to the bell housing via two brackets, the LH and RH bearing brackets, mounting the stabilizing links at the bottom. The brackets are fastened to the bell housing with four 5/16 – 18 x 3/4″ hex bolts with lock washers. The link is fastened to the bracket with a single 7/16″ – 20 x 1-3/4″ hex head bolt with a nylock nut. The link is fastened to the firewall bracket using a stepped bush and stepped washer with a 3/8″ – 24 nylock nut.

Rear Engine Stabiliser Mounted

Rear Engine Stabiliser Mounted

 

Rear Engine Mount – The Channel Support Assembly

The assembly includes: The channel support, a rubber spring seat, a center rubber busing, the coil spring for rear engine mounting, four aluminum packing blocks between the flange of the channel support and the underside of the floor, eight bolts (5/16″ -24 x 1 3/8″), eight flat washers, eight split locking washers, and four stiffening plates. The Spring Retainer Assembly for Rear Engine Mounting is attached to the gearbox.

Rear Engine Mount

Rear Engine Mount

 

Engine Rear Mounting Assembly

Engine Rear Mounting Assembly

The rear engine mounting plate actually supports the tail of the gearbox and it bolts to the superstructure of the car. I cleaned and media blasted the Channel Support component of the assembly and powder coated it. The Assembly includes the channel support as well as its rubber spring seat, the rubber center bush, the spring retainer, the coil spring, the pin assembly, the bolt securing the rear engine mounting to the gearbox, a self-locking nut, four packing blocks and four stiffening plates. I replaced the rubber spring seat and the rubber center bush and the mounting fasteners with new components. The coil spring and stiffening plates were clear cad plated and the aluminum spacers were cleaned and clear-coated.

Support Assembly

Support Assembly

Coil Spring

Coil Spring

Support Stiffening Plates

Support Stiffening Plates

Channel Support Assembly Components for Rear Engine Mounting Assembled

Channel Support Assembly Components for Rear Engine Mounting Assembled

Reassembling and Installing the rear engine mount
The Jaguar Service Manual provides instruction for installing the rear mount. Place the spring retainer into position so that the stem protrudes through the centre of the spring and the washers welded to the two large lugs on the spring retainer are facing the side of the channel support, which has an extra cut-away portion in the flange. Compress the spring until the stem of the spring retainer protrudes far enough through the bottom of the channel support to allow a large washer to be placed over the stem and an 1/8” (3 mm) rod to be inserted through the hole in the stem.” Of course, nothing is said about HOW to compress the spring. I found that I needed a press to do the job and it makes the task quite easy.

Rear Engine Mount with Pin Installed

Rear Engine Mount with Pin Installed

Rear Engine Mount Fixed to Gearbox

Rear Engine Mount Fixed to Gearbox

Spring Retainer

Spring Retainer

Two 7/16″-20 x 1-1/2″ hex head bolts with nylock nuts are used to secure the rear channel support (rear engine mount) to the gearbox. Note that the spring retainer needs to face the proper way as seen in the diagram and photos with the bolt heads to the front of the gearbox. The rear engine mount is now ready to old to the chassis with the eight (8) hex head mounting bolts.

Rear Engine Mount Attached to Gearbox

Rear Engine Mount Attached to Gearbox

Front Engine Mounts

Upgraded engine mounts were ordered from SNG Barratt and were painted once received.

Upgraded Engine Mounts Painted

Upgraded Engine Mounts Painted

I wondered if the upgraded mounts were the same size as the original spec (but new) rubber mounts so I ordered a couple to see:

Upgrade Mount top and Original Spec Mount bottom

Upgrade Mount top and Original Spec Mount bottom

One can immediately see that the flange used to mount the rubber to the bracket is of a different shape and slightly wider, but it fits. Then to measure the height:

Upgraded Engine mount 1.243 inches High

Upgraded Engine mount 1.243 inches High

Original Spec Engine Mount 1.088 inches High

Original Spec Engine Mount 1.088 inches High

Hopefully this is not great enough difference to create a mounting problem. When I install the engine I will try the upgraded mounts first and see if they fit, but I have a fall-back if they do not.

This is an image of the both brackets and rubber mounts ready to go on the car. I have used Grade 8 fasteners throughout. The rubber mounts attach to the flange brackets with 5/16″-24 x 1″ hex bolts and I have used nylock nuts. The bolts used in the rubber mount are 1/2″-20 x 7/8″ with split and flat washers. The two long bolts in each flange assembly are 5/16″-24 x 3 3/4″ while the shorter bolts are 5/16″-24 x 3/4″ and each is secured with a nylock nut and flat washer. The assemblies were blasted and painted with POR-15.

Bracket Assemblies with mounting rubbers and hardware

Bracket Assemblies with mounting rubbers and hardware

I am going to be installing the engine and gearbox before I complete bodywork and paint so I went ahead and installed the mounts to the car. I left the rubber mounts slightly loose as there is a little adjustability for mating with the engine. I will tighten after the engine is installed.

RH Motor Mounts Installed

RH Motor Mounts Installed

LH Motor Mounts Installed

LH Motor Mounts Installed

The Trial Engine Install

As mentioned in other posts under the “Restoration” heading of this site, my plan is to install the engine/gearbox, electrical system, front and rear suspension and etc.  so that I can test and run the major systems before I paint the car. So…. after getting everything in and tested I will then pull it all out, do the bodywork and paint and then reassemble. Crazy I know, but then no surprises after the car is painted.

Here is a short video I made of the install of the rebuilt engine. I used my lift to lower the car over the engine. You will note that I removed the LH engine mount and the exhaust manifolds – just to protect them since they have an expensive new porcelain coating now. On the RH side of the engine I removed the carburetors and their linkage, but left the oil filter and starter.

In a separate entry “Engine Post-Installation Check List” I will detail all of the connections and other items that must be tended to prior to starting the installed engine.

When I do this the final time and at the suggestion of a buddy and advisor, John Stefanik, I will leave the LH mount as well as the alternator and air conditioner compressor/mount and remove the RH mount and the oil filter. The alternator and compressor are not easy to mount once the engine is in the car. We will see. Anyway, here is my install video. Thanks to my wife and grandson for their assistance!

Engine Rebuild

Clean-up Before Rebuild

I had thought about outsourcing the machine block cleaning and machine work and then rebuilding the engine myself, but thought better of it given time limitations and decided to go ahead and give the complete engine to Mike Gassman at Gassman Automotive http://www.gassmanautomotive.com for a soup to nuts rebuild. Mike and his team had done XK motors before and are experienced with the motor, ignition, fuel system and etc.

I spent a few days cleaning the block and head to remove as much grease and grime as possible before turning everything over to Mike.

Front of Cleaned Engine Before Rebuild

Front of Cleaned Engine Before Rebuild

RH Side of Engine

LH Side Engine

Underside of Engine

Rebuild Engine

Machine Work:

  • Resurface Head
  • Valve Job
  • Install Guides
  • Pressure Test
  • Resurface and weld Exhaust Manifold Cracks
  • Drill for Oversize Lifters
  • Drill for Hold Downs
  • R&R Pistons
  • R&R Bushing Under Over
  • Recondition Big End
  • Grind and Polish Crankshaft
  • Magna-Flux Crankshaft
  • R&R Crank Plugs
  • Rebore and Hone Block
  • Pins
  • Replace Core Plugs
  • Balance Pressure Plate, Cylinder Block
  • Resurface Flywheel
  • Magna-Flux Block
  • Resurface Cylinder Head
  • Polishing Two Valve Covers, Two Carbs Dashpots, Intake Manifold, Oil Cap, Cover and Water Neck

Parts:

Where possible used components in good shape were used in the rebuild; however, in many instances new parts were required to replace worn or broken bits. The original compression for the 3.8 MK2 engine was 9:1; however, primarily because of the lower octane rating of fuel today and due to the way I plan to use this car, I decided to use 8:1 compression Mahle pistons in my rebuild. This is not a complete list and it is in no particular order, but new parts ordered included the following:

  • Cam bearing Set
  • Engine chrome hardware
  • Oil Filter
  • Spin-On Oil Filter Kit
  • Payen Brand Head Set
  • Cylinder Head Studs
  • Seal Kit
  • Lock Tab Kit
  • Thrust Washer Set
  • Piston set
  • Tri-metal Connecting Rod Bearing Set
  • Tri-metal Main Bearing set
  • Core Plug Set
  • Pilot Bushing
  • Clutch Kit
  • Water Pump
  • Timing Chain, Guide and Tensioner kit
  • Lower Gasket Set
  • Tappet Hold Down Kit
  • Tappet Guide
  • Valve Spring Set
  • Oil Pump
  • Oil Pump Adapter
  • Bronze Valve Guide Set
  • Intake Valves
  • Exhaust Valves
  • Oversize Tappets
  • 10W30 Break in Oil with Zinc Additive
  • 15W50 Oil with Zinc
  • Engine and Bearing Assembly Lubricant
  • Sealants/Sealers/Cam Lube
  • Gloss Black paint
  • Metallic Blue Spray Paint for the Cylinder Head
  • Flamethrower Coil
  • Chrome Coil Bracket
  • Flamethrower Ignition Leads
  • Spark Plugs
  • 123 Distributor
  • Brass Nuts
  • Thermostat
  • S.U. Throttle Shaft 1 3/4″ Butterflies
  • S.U. 1 3/4″ Butterflies
  • 5/16 22 BSF Banjo Bolt HD Starting Carb
  • 3.8 MK2 SM/1402 Carb Kits
  • Drive Belt
  • Hoses to Radiator
  • Radiator Hose Clamps
  • Heater Hose
  • Heater Hose Clamps
  • Gear Reduction Starter
  • Engine Ground Strap
  • Oil Pressure Sender
  • Oil Quick Drain Valve
  • Blast, Anneal and Porcelain Coat Exhaust Manifolds
  • Carb Banjo Bolts and Washers
  • Alternator and Mounting Bracket

Rear Main Crankshaft Seal

I did some research on the replacement of the rear main crankshaft seal. A number of the usual vendors sell modern upgrades for this seal to help prevent oil leakage. The apparent most popular upgrade kit does require some machining of the crank.

After checking with those on the saloon-lovers forum and a few other MK2 owners, the consensus seemed to be to stay away from the upgrade kits. However, Peter Wise aka “Old Goat” [email protected] recommended a GraphTite seal made by BEST Gaskets as a modern material upgrade to the original rope seal. The kit is available from EGGE Machine http://www.egge.com  part number: 6382S and it is for a Pontiac 1968-76 8 cylinder 428-455. It is a direct replacement for the rope and does not require any machine work. I cannot explain why the Pontiac V-8 seal works in the MK2 3.8 but Pete claims that it works quite well. I have ordered the kit and Mike and his team installed the seal upon rebuild. The seal kit included an installation tool for $17.39!

GraphTite Rear Main Seal

GraphTite Rear Main Seal

Dynamo Mounting Bracket and Spacer

I probably will not use the dynamo bracket with my alternator, in favor of a turnbuckle brace, but I cleaned it up and painted it  – just in case.

Dynamo Adjustment Bracket

 

Dynamo Bracket

Coil Bracket Extension

Coil Mounting Bracket Extension

Spin-on Oil Filter Kit

Oil Filter Assembly

Oil Filter Assembly

As seen in the image above, the original oil filter is a full flow type and has a renewable felt or paper element. Modern spin-on alternatives are available and I installed the kit provided by SNG Barratt. Purists may object, but most who have installed the spin-on arrangement report success and it is certainly much easier to change.

Spin-on Oil Filter Instructions

SNG Barratt Spin On Oil Filter Kit

SNG Barratt Spin On Oil Filter Kit

Harmonic Balancer

I decided to have the harmonic balancer rebuilt by Dale Manufacturing http://hbrepair.com/harmonicbalancer_018.htm in Salem, Oregon rather than purchase a new one. The rebuild was under $150 and the final product looked pretty good.

Harmonic Balancer

Harmonic Balancer

Timing Marks

Oil Sump Dipstick

Got the dipstick back from the plater. I vaguely recalled that the background on the handle was a somewhat unusual blue color. Someone on the Forum indicated that Revlon’s After Party nail polish was the perfect color, so I ordered some and painted the handle:

Revlon's After Party Nail Polish

Revlon’s After Party Nail Polish

 

Revlon's After Party Nail Polish after Application

Revlon’s After Party Nail Polish after Application

Oil Drain Plug

I ordered an EZ Oil Drain Valve for XK Engines from Cool Cat Express just to make the oil drain process a little easier. As their advertisement says; “This all aluminum drain valve mounts permanently in place of your drain plug. A simple twist of the wrist will open and close it. No more stripped threads, no more lost plugs. One piece aircraft quality 6061 aluminum and 302 stainless steel. Aluminum has clear anodized finish for long, corrosion free life. Seals are replaceable. Nothing to break, nothing to lose: saves labor, saves your oil pan, save aggravation. The perfect companion for our spin on conversion kits! Fits all Jaguar oil pans with 5/8″-18 thread. This includes ALL XK motors, and many V12’s.”

This is a photo of the Valve and the plug it replaces:

Cool Cat Express Oil Drain Plug

Here is a photo of the new valve installed:

Cool Cat Express Oil Drain Valve Installed

Engine Rebuild Process

Mike Gassman Installing bearings

Mike Gassman Installing Bearings

Engine Block

Engine Block

Crankshaft

Crankshaft

New Main Bearings

Connecting Rods

Timing Gear Chain

Pistons & Timing Gear

RetroAir Aluminum Pulleys

 

 

 

123 Distributor

New Porcelain Exhaust

Primary Coolant Hoses

Engineering Art

Compressor & Shield

New Belt Routing

Distributor

Spin-on Filter

Front View

Engine Run-In

After Mike and his staff got the engine together they made a test stand so that we could do preliminary adjustments and make sure we were leak free. I am trying Evans Waterless Coolant in this engine and it was used in the testing.

All of the attention to balancing really paid off as the engine runs very smoothly with very little vibration. Everything checked out beautifully.

Thanks to Mike for a beautiful engine and a beautiful job. I recommend him to others without reservation.

The Gassman Team

The Gassman Team

Engine Testing

Engine Testing

Engine Testing

Maestro Mike

Maestro Mike