Heater

Posted on June 12, 2017 by valv8988

Heater

The heating and ventilating equipment consists of a heating element and an electrically driven fan mounted on the engine side of the scuttle. Air from the heater unit is conducted to a built-in duct situated under the instrument panel, to the rear compartment via twin pipes, and to vents at the bottom of the windscreen to provide demisting and defrosting. Either fresh air or air from the interior of the car can be introduced into the system at the will of the driver. FRESH AIR is introduced into the system by opening the scuttle ventilator and switching on the fan. Air from the interior of the car can be RE-CIRCULATED by closing the scuttle ventilator and switching on the fan.

Heater Schematic

Heater Operation

Heater in Engine Bay

Heater Control Levers

Heater Box

Unfortunately, my heater box assembly seemed to be in a poor state. The drain tube from the plenum must have been clogged which resulted in the system holding moisture combined with the fact that the mice set up home inside the heater casing. The case was pretty rusty, the squirrel cage (fan blower) was completely deteriorated and worst of all the air control flaps were “frozen” in place.

Bonus Mice Nest

I decided to try to restore the box and get the frozen flaps working, so I disassembled the heater and media blast the box to so that I could see just how bad it was.

These are some images of the heater before I began disassembly:

Heater Box 1

Heater Box

Heater Box 1

Heater Box

These images show the foam rubber seals around the flaps:

Flap Seal

There was a rather thick foam rubber seal between the Heater and the Dash at Volute. This was removed and will be replaced with a new seal. I then removed the Water valve Assembly form the box by removing two cheese head slotted screws #10-32 x 1/2″ with split washers, and the rubber seal that seated the valve to the radiator pipe.

Foam Seal to Body

Water Valve Assembly

Water Valve Mount

Heater Seals to Firewall

There were 11 slotted #5 x 1/4″ self-tapping screws that held the Lid for the Heater Case to the body of the casing. I removed these to then gain access to the radiator.

Lid for Heater Case

There were two Springs on the outside of the Case identified as Spring, Steadying Air Control Flaps. These were removed and set aside. There were also pieces of felt that provided a cushion between the casing and the radiator. These were removed.

Springs

Felt Seal

I then lifted out the radiator:

Water Radiator For Heater

The motor removal was the next step in the disassembly. To get at the three mounting screws for the motor, one must first remove the fan “squirrel cage.” This might normally be done as shown in the image below that was borrowed from another web site. Because more than half of the “fins” in my fan were rusted away, I couldn’t do this. So, I used an air impact wrench which worked like a charm. When the cage or basket is removed, three slotted #10-32 x 1″ machine screws are visible. These can then be held while removing the nuts, rubber and locking washers from the motor side of the case.

Squirrel Cage Removal

This image shows the mounting nuts and the wiring for the motor. After the three nuts were removed the motor could be lifted away from the case.

Heater Motor

Felt Washer

Motor Casing

Motor Removed

After stripping out the components it was then time to blast the case with aluminum oxide. This process did reveal several rust pinholes. However, the bad news is that the two movable flaps are both “frozen” in place. I have soaked the hinge rods in Kroil to hopefully release the hinges over time.

These are a collection of images of the box after blasting. The brown in the images on the flaps is not rust. It is adhesive used to secure the foam pads to the flaps:

Inside View

Air Flaps

Assembly Case

Blower Box

Assembly Case

Blower Box

Air Flap

Air Flap Rod

Heater Lid

The Kroil did not work so I queried the various email lists and forums. One person suggested heat which I unsuceesfullt tried with a torch. another person suggested a water/molasses solution, but that takes a long time -at least a week. Another suggested electrolysis.

I watched a few YouTube videos on using electrolysis for rust removal, and thought I would give it a try. I emulated this particular video: http://youtu.be/54ADeB6V1rQ

I put the heater box into 14 gallons of water with 14 tablespoons of sodium carbonate. The videos recommend using Arm and Hammer Super Washing Soda, but good luck finding it in a store! I ended up “cooking” baking soda at 200 degrees for an hour to release the carbon dioxide, and thereby turning the sodium bicarbonate into sodium carbonate. Worked like a charm.

I then attached my battery charger and let the magic begin. I put the box in the solution at 9:15 PM and after two hours I was surprised at how much the water color had changed from clear to rust given how clean the box already was from blasting. The solution just gets into places the aluminum oxide blast abrasive cannot. I then let it all sit until about 8:00 AM this morning.

I cleaned up my mess and put the box on the work table expecting to be disappointed, but I was not. One flap started working immediately, needing little coercion. The second required some pushing and pulling and a little lubrication but it now functions properly as well!

I would use this process again in a minute. Very inexpensive and easy. One more original Jaguar part saved. I have a little pitting to fill with body filler, but otherwise should be a very serviceable unit.

Try it – you will like it.

In the images below the light colored water image was at 9:00 PM almost exactly when the Box went in the solution. The darker colored water image was taken at 8:00 AM the next morning when the Box was removed from the solution.

9PM Start Bath

11PM Bath

8AM Finish Bath

The Clayton Classics Upgrade

I ordered the upgrade kit for the MK2 heater from Clayton Classics in the UK.

Phil Beveridge.
Manager.
Clayton Classics.
Hunter Terrace,
Fletchworth Gate,
Burnsall Road,
Coventry.
CV5 6SP
Tel: +44 (0)24 7669 1916
Fax: +44(0)2476691969
E-mail:[email protected]

-OR-

Liz Chandler
Sales Adminstrator
Clayton VS Limited
Phone: 02476 691916
email: [email protected]

While awaiting delivery, I had the bottom of the heater box braised to take care of the worst of the pin holes in the bottom of the blower body. The kit arrived with everything necessary to enhance the performance of the original box.

Clayton provided pdf versions of two articles from Jaguar World Monthly that detailed, through photographs and narrative, the removal and dismantling of the original heater box assembly as well as the modifications required. The article was begun and completed over two month’s publication of the magazine. They also included a pdf of their own assembly directions. These are referenced below:

Jaguar Mk2 Heater upgrade installation instructions

classic workshop XK120 Heater Mk2 Heater dec09

Mk2 Heater Upgrade classic workshop jan10

Four modifications to the original box are required.

The air inlet opening in the blower casing must be increased in diameter to 120mm to permit the introduction of the larger fan supplied by Clayton. A perfect cut is not required as the surface will be covered by the seal between the heater and the dash at volute.
A 10mm hole was drilled into the blower casing to permit allen wrench access to the motor shaft to tighten the fan to the shaft. A rubber plug covers the hole after the fan is installed.
Three small holes for self-tapping screws to secure the motor mounting bracket needed to be drilled in the blower casing.
Clayton suggests the original design that incorporated the inner flap was simply a bad design that permitted the dilution of hot air with cold before entering the cabin. Their recommendation is to seal the flap with silicone and to disconnect the flap controls so that the flap remains permanently closed.
Heater Flap Control Cables

120mm Diameter Heater Box Modification to Allow Larger Fan

Access Hole for Fan Shaft Allen Screw

Clayton Motor Upgrade Installed

I completed the first three modifications before powder coating the entire box.

I test fit all of the components and then tested the electrical wiring and connections. The new motor was wired for a positive ground car. To have the fan move in the proper counter clock-wise direction, these wires must be reversed in a negative ground car.

[NOTE]: My wire colors are different than the original wiring scheme.

The orange wire from the motor is connected to ground. The black wire to the “inside” post (closest to the heater box) of the resistor. The slate wire from terminal #6 on the switch is connected to the “outside” post (closest to the blower fan) of the resistor. The white/green wire from terminal #8 on the switch connects to the “inside” post on the resistor. The green/yellow wire from the #4 terminal of the switch is connected to the fuse position #11 for power. With this wiring in place, the lower position of the switch is “off,” the middle position is “Low Speed” and the upper position is “High Speed.”

I created a pigtail (seen blow) from the resistor for the heater fan wiring. Two wires in the pigtail are connected through two-way snap connectors to wires of the same color which route through the firewall and ultimately back to the Fan Switch. The black wire goes directly to the fan motor.

Heater Fan Wiring

I contacted Clayton to determine the amperage draw for the upgraded motor and received this response from Phil Beveridge:

Dear Mr.Rose,

At 13.5 volts, running at full speed, the motor will be drawing 10.8amps.

Kind regards,

Phil Beveridge.

Per the Clayton instructions, I used silicone to seal the inner flap in the closed position.

Silicone Sealed Flap Shut

And, added foam to the inside of the bottom flap:

Foam Padding on Flap

I then installed the motor and the heater matrix after wrapping it with foam:

Renewed Heater Box

Clayton Heater Matrix with Padding

The next step was to install the heater box front lid:

Heater Box Lid Installed

Water Valve

I ordered and installed a new water valve and rubber “O” ring seal.

Original and New

“O” Ring Seal

Valve Installed

Heater Pipe Mounting Clips

Two spring clips are pop riveted (1/8″) to the angled face of the heater box. These are used to secure one of the water circulation pipes to the box. The Clips were originally painted black so they were media blasted and then painted with POR 15.

Holes in Heater Box for Pipe Clips

Heater Pipe Clips Riveted to Heater Box

Trial Fitting of the Heater Box

I need to install the heater box for completion of the wiring harness and to see how the box would fit with other “non-original” items in the engine bay. I was particularly curious about any conflicts that might arise from the addition of the power steering pump.

There are several foam insulation seals that need to be installed between the scuttle, firewall and base of the heater. These were sourced from Clayton, XK’s Unlimited and McMaster Carr and installed temporarily.

Heater Blower Firewall Seal Installed

Closed Cell Seals at Heater Flap & Hose Openings

Three rubber “bobbins” serve as cushions and mounting posts for the heater box to the firewall.

Heater Mounting Stud and Heater Cable Firewall Grommets

These are actually two 1/4″-28 hex head cap screws molded into each of the three rubber cushions. I used a 1/4″ – 28 x 1″ machine hex head screw on the lower right mount at the heater’s base and a 1/4′ – 28 x 1 1/4″ machine hex head screw on the lower left mount. Before placing the heater box in position I also installed the two firewall grommets for the heater control cables. These are visible in the image above. In the final assembly only one of these will be used due to the permanent closure of one of the circulation flaps as recommended by Clayton in their upgrade kit. Both heater hose rubber elbows were installed in the bulkhead.

Heater Box Installed

Air Distributor Box

My next task was to clean up the air distributor box that is mounted in the center and below the dash with two 1/4″ – 28 x 1″ hex head bolts and two 1/4″ – 28 x 1/2″ hex head bolts with flat and shakeproof washers. As the images show, a felt gasket is glued to the edges of the box. A small piece of black electrician’s tape was found placed over two holes in the box. The box was blasted with aluminum oxide and powder coated gloss black.

Air Distributor Box

Felt Gasket

Tape Blocking Holes

I media blasted the box to prepare it for powder coating:

Clean Air Box

Powder Coated Air Distributor Box

To prepare for the trial installation of the Air distributor Box, I cleaned the mounting surfaces and applied some self-etching primer. This will, of course be removed when the car is blasted.

Mounting Location for the Air Distributor Box

The Air Distributor Box had a felt gasket around its perimeter when I removed it from the car. I made and glued a closed cell foam gasket to the Box before mounting.

Foam gasket for the air distributor box

Air Distributor Box Foam Gasket

Air Distributor Box Installed

At the suggestion of Eric Kriss, I also concluded that given the somewhat poor performance of the MK2 heating system, it made little sense to send heat to the rear of the car. What heat was produced would be best restricted to the front seats! He closed the two vent outlets in the air distributor box with expandable rubber plugs, and I followed his lead. I picked up two 1-3/8″ plugs from my local ACE Hardware and they work perfectly.

Expandable Plugs for Air Distributor Box

Expandable Plugs Installed in Air Distributor Box

Front Heater Return Pipe

Hot Water Circulation

The hot water circulates through the heater via steel pipes and rubber hoses. Though not as original, I used stainless steel pipes available as a kit form SNG Barratt or XKs Unlimited. They should be painted black but I am going to just leave them unpainted since they would probably just get scratched anyway.The Rear Return Pipe, on Scuttle, At Rear of Cylinder Block connects to the Front Return Pipe and then to an adaptor at the Water Pump. The pipe is secured by a clip bracket on the firewall and by two clips on the heater box:

Heater Pipe Clip

Heater Pipe Clipped to Heater Box

The feed pipe via a rubber elbow connects to the heater radiator inlet pipe, and to the water outlet on the intake manifold. The image below shows two of the pipes installed in the engine bay and connected to the heater:

Rear Heater Pipes Installed

The Front Return Pipe is secured parallel to the RH side of the engine block with brackets mounted to inlet manifold studs ( the third stud from the front of the engine and the third stud from the rear). The Brake Servo Vacuum Pipe is paired with the Front Return Pipe held by the same brackets.

Two identical elbow hoses part C16655 are used to connect the pipes to the heater matrix and water valve assembly. An accordion type hose, part C21961, connects the feed pipe to the adapter at the rear of the inlet manifold. This hose can be seen in the image above.

The front return pipe and the rear return pipe are connected with a straight piece of hose, part C14999/3. A shorter straight piece of hose connects the front the front return pipe to the adaptor on the water pump. All of the hoses are secure to the hard pipes with Cheney clamps that were sourced from XKs Unlimited.

The offset in the Front Return Pipe is to the front of the car. I removed the two Brackets On Studs of Inlet Manifold by loosening the two 3/8″ – 24 stud nuts. At the front of the pipe I disconnected the hose 9/16″ hose clamp and pulled the pipe away with the 3 1/2″ Hose, From Front Return Pipe to Adaptor on Water Pump. The hose uses two 9/16″ clamps to connect the hose to the pipe and to the adaptor. The Hose From Rear Return Pipe to Front Return Pipe is 8 1/2″ long also secured with two 9/16″ clamps. For ease of removal, I disconnected the Vacuum Pipe Assembly from the top of the Inlet Manifold, and could then lift away both pipes and brackets from the engine block.

The Front Return Pipe and the Vacuum Pipe were then separated by loosening each of the mounting brackets components held together with a hex head #10 – 32 x 1″ machine screws, nuts and shakeproof washers. Two 1″ long pieces of rubber hose (slit length wise) wrapped around the vacuum hose to keep the two pipes from rattling against each other.

Front Return Pipe at Side Of Cylinder Block – Rear Hose

Front Pipe Hose

Front Return Pipe

Pipe Brackets

Front Return Pipe

Front Heater Return

Hose from Front

Hose from Rear

Front Return Pipe Hoses

Brackets prepared for painting:

Brackets-on-Studs-of-Inlet-Manifold-for-Fixing-of-Heater-and-Servo-Pipes Ready to Paint

Cover Plate Over Pedal Mounting Cut-out on Centre Dash

I am replacing the Front Heater water return pipe with a new stainless pipe:

I also purchased a new foam rubber seal from the the heater to the dash volute.

Rubber Seal from heater to Dash Volute

Heater Control Lever Assemblies

Two levers mounted in the central control panel in the console control the temperature and distribution of air into the cockpit. The temperature control – marked “Hot” and “Cold”situated below the instrument panel operates a valve which controls the flow of air through the heater. When the control is placed in the “Cold” position the supply of air from the heating element is completely cut off so that cold air can be admitted for ventilating the car in hot weather. Placed in the “Hot” position the maximum amount of air passes through the heating element. By placing the control in intermediate positions varying degrees of heat can be obtained.

The distribution control – marked “Car-Screen” controls the proportion of air directed to the windscreen or the interior of the car. Placed in the fully upward position the maximum amount of air will be admitted into the car interior. Placed in the fully downward position the maximum amount of air is directed to the windscreen for rapid demisting or defrosting. By placing the contra in intermediate positions varying proportions of air can be directed into the car interior and to the windscreen.

The lever controls consist of the mounting brackets and control arms with chrome bezels and inscribed instructional plates. A plastic knob is screwed into each control arm. Cable attachment hardware and two distance pieces for each chrome bezel mounting post is located on each control arm and bracket. Both assemblies wherein reasonably good condition. I will try to replace the inscribed plates if I can locate a source. I cleaned both assemblies, polished the chrome, lever knob and instructional plates and primed and painted each.

Temperature Control Lever

Temp Control Lever

Distribution Control Lever

Distribution Control Lever

Distribution Lever

Temperature and Air Distribution Levers after Renewal

Temperature and Air Distribution Levers

Windscreen Demister Nozzles

Each of the demister nozzles is attached to the scuttle with two #6 x 1/2″ pan head screws. Flexible hose connects each nozzle to rubber elbows in the firewall that access the heater aperture in the scuttle. Each nozzle was primed and painted gloss black.

RH Demister Nozzle with Hose

Rubber Elbow

The hose fits inside the rubber elbow. It is a very tight fit. I boiled the elbows in water to make them more pliable and then forced the hose inside. To open the passage and remove any hose restriction I pushed a broomstick up the hose to the elbow.

Hoses Installed in Elbows

While the RH Demister Nozzle fit into the bodywork quite easily the LH side was very tight so I opened up the sheet metal with a dremel to improve access.

Tight Fit Modification

Rubber Elbows in Firewall

RH Demister Installed

Engine Rebuild

Posted on July 25, 2014 by valv8988

Clean-up Before Rebuild

I had thought about outsourcing the machine block cleaning and machine work and then rebuilding the engine myself, but thought better of it given time limitations and decided to go ahead and give the complete engine to Mike Gassman at Gassman Automotive http://www.gassmanautomotive.com for a soup to nuts rebuild. Mike and his team had done XK motors before and are experienced with the motor, ignition, fuel system and etc.

I spent a few days cleaning the block and head to remove as much grease and grime as possible before turning everything over to Mike.

Front of Cleaned Engine Before Rebuild

RH Side of Engine

LH Side Engine

Underside of Engine

Rebuild Engine

Machine Work:

Resurface Head
Valve Job
Install Guides
Pressure Test
Resurface and weld Exhaust Manifold Cracks
Drill for Oversize Lifters
Drill for Hold Downs
R&R Pistons
R&R Bushing Under Over
Recondition Big End
Grind and Polish Crankshaft
Magna-Flux Crankshaft
R&R Crank Plugs
Rebore and Hone Block
Pins
Replace Core Plugs
Balance Pressure Plate, Cylinder Block
Resurface Flywheel
Magna-Flux Block
Resurface Cylinder Head
Polishing Two Valve Covers, Two Carbs Dashpots, Intake Manifold, Oil Cap, Cover and Water Neck

Parts:

Where possible used components in good shape were used in the rebuild; however, in many instances new parts were required to replace worn or broken bits. The original compression for the 3.8 MK2 engine was 9:1; however, primarily because of the lower octane rating of fuel today and due to the way I plan to use this car, I decided to use 8:1 compression Mahle pistons in my rebuild. This is not a complete list and it is in no particular order, but new parts ordered included the following:

Cam bearing Set
Engine chrome hardware
Oil Filter
Spin-On Oil Filter Kit
Payen Brand Head Set
Cylinder Head Studs
Seal Kit
Lock Tab Kit
Thrust Washer Set
Piston set
Tri-metal Connecting Rod Bearing Set
Tri-metal Main Bearing set
Core Plug Set
Pilot Bushing
Clutch Kit
Water Pump
Timing Chain, Guide and Tensioner kit
Lower Gasket Set
Tappet Hold Down Kit
Tappet Guide
Valve Spring Set
Oil Pump
Oil Pump Adapter
Bronze Valve Guide Set
Intake Valves
Exhaust Valves
Oversize Tappets
10W30 Break in Oil with Zinc Additive
15W50 Oil with Zinc
Engine and Bearing Assembly Lubricant
Sealants/Sealers/Cam Lube
Gloss Black paint
Metallic Blue Spray Paint for the Cylinder Head
Flamethrower Coil
Chrome Coil Bracket
Flamethrower Ignition Leads
Spark Plugs
123 Distributor
Brass Nuts
Thermostat
S.U. Throttle Shaft 1 3/4″ Butterflies
S.U. 1 3/4″ Butterflies
5/16 22 BSF Banjo Bolt HD Starting Carb
3.8 MK2 SM/1402 Carb Kits
Drive Belt
Hoses to Radiator
Radiator Hose Clamps
Heater Hose
Heater Hose Clamps
Gear Reduction Starter
Engine Ground Strap
Oil Pressure Sender
Oil Quick Drain Valve
Blast, Anneal and Porcelain Coat Exhaust Manifolds
Carb Banjo Bolts and Washers
Alternator and Mounting Bracket

Rear Main Crankshaft Seal

I did some research on the replacement of the rear main crankshaft seal. A number of the usual vendors sell modern upgrades for this seal to help prevent oil leakage. The apparent most popular upgrade kit does require some machining of the crank.

After checking with those on the saloon-lovers forum and a few other MK2 owners, the consensus seemed to be to stay away from the upgrade kits. However, Peter Wise aka “Old Goat” [email protected] recommended a GraphTite seal made by BEST Gaskets as a modern material upgrade to the original rope seal. The kit is available from EGGE Machine http://www.egge.com part number: 6382S and it is for a Pontiac 1968-76 8 cylinder 428-455. It is a direct replacement for the rope and does not require any machine work. I cannot explain why the Pontiac V-8 seal works in the MK2 3.8 but Pete claims that it works quite well. I have ordered the kit and Mike and his team installed the seal upon rebuild. The seal kit included an installation tool for $17.39!

GraphTite Rear Main Seal

Dynamo Mounting Bracket and Spacer

I probably will not use the dynamo bracket with my alternator, in favor of a turnbuckle brace, but I cleaned it up and painted it – just in case.

Dynamo Adjustment Bracket

Dynamo Bracket

Coil Bracket Extension

Coil Mounting Bracket Extension

Spin-on Oil Filter Kit

Oil Filter Assembly

As seen in the image above, the original oil filter is a full flow type and has a renewable felt or paper element. Modern spin-on alternatives are available and I installed the kit provided by SNG Barratt. Purists may object, but most who have installed the spin-on arrangement report success and it is certainly much easier to change.

Spin-on Oil Filter Instructions

SNG Barratt Spin On Oil Filter Kit

Harmonic Balancer

I decided to have the harmonic balancer rebuilt by Dale Manufacturing http://hbrepair.com/harmonicbalancer_018.htm in Salem, Oregon rather than purchase a new one. The rebuild was under $150 and the final product looked pretty good.

Harmonic Balancer

Timing Marks

Oil Sump Dipstick

Got the dipstick back from the plater. I vaguely recalled that the background on the handle was a somewhat unusual blue color. Someone on the Forum indicated that Revlon’s After Party nail polish was the perfect color, so I ordered some and painted the handle:

Revlon’s After Party Nail Polish

Revlon’s After Party Nail Polish after Application

Oil Drain Plug

I ordered an EZ Oil Drain Valve for XK Engines from Cool Cat Express just to make the oil drain process a little easier. As their advertisement says; “This all aluminum drain valve mounts permanently in place of your drain plug. A simple twist of the wrist will open and close it. No more stripped threads, no more lost plugs. One piece aircraft quality 6061 aluminum and 302 stainless steel. Aluminum has clear anodized finish for long, corrosion free life. Seals are replaceable. Nothing to break, nothing to lose: saves labor, saves your oil pan, save aggravation. The perfect companion for our spin on conversion kits! Fits all Jaguar oil pans with 5/8″-18 thread. This includes ALL XK motors, and many V12’s.”

This is a photo of the Valve and the plug it replaces:

Cool Cat Express Oil Drain Plug

Here is a photo of the new valve installed:

Cool Cat Express Oil Drain Valve Installed

Engine Rebuild Process

Mike Gassman Installing Bearings

Engine Block

Crankshaft

New Main Bearings

Connecting Rods

Timing Gear Chain

Pistons & Timing Gear

RetroAir Aluminum Pulleys

123 Distributor

New Porcelain Exhaust

Primary Coolant Hoses

Engineering Art

Compressor & Shield

New Belt Routing

Distributor

Spin-on Filter

Front View

Engine Run-In

After Mike and his staff got the engine together they made a test stand so that we could do preliminary adjustments and make sure we were leak free. I am trying Evans Waterless Coolant in this engine and it was used in the testing.

All of the attention to balancing really paid off as the engine runs very smoothly with very little vibration. Everything checked out beautifully.

Thanks to Mike for a beautiful engine and a beautiful job. I recommend him to others without reservation.

The Gassman Team

Engine Testing

Maestro Mike

Safety Check & Rivergate Modifications

Posted on July 5, 1998 by valv8988

The week after we got the Bugeye home, Dad took it over the mountain from Harrisonburg to Grand Touring Classics in Stanardsville, VA. An unlikely place for a British car shop, but they seemed to know Healeys and were in the process of restoring a Bugeye. Garland Gentry ran the shop and was willing to give the Sprite a good going over to make sure it was safe to operate. Engine compression was good but it was in need of some minor mechanical work. Dad asked Garland to prepare an insurance appraisal of the car and it is found below:

Appraisal

We had read that converting the drum brakes on the front of 948 Bugeye to disc brakes from a later Sprite or MG Midget was pretty straight foward. Dad didn’t have the time to make the conversion so he had Garland go ahead and get the parts and install the upgrade. As things turned out, the brakes worked a little too well. Garland had forgotten to remove the check valve from the master cylinder and consequently the rear brakes kept locking up and overheating. After making some calls and emailing some sprite owners, Dad figured out the problem and took care of it. Brakes were much improved but still not as good as hoped. We would later find out that the 1098 Sprite with disc brakes used a 3/4” bore master rather than the 7/8” found in the earlier bugeye.

So the disc brake conversion became the first of many “improvements” to the Bugeye that we would make. We knew after driving the Sprite on the Washington Beltway with the big trucks passing us, that conversion to a 1275 motor and a Datsun B210 gearbox wouldn’t be far behind.

Dad contacted Rivergate Restoration about purchasing their conversion kit to the Datsun transmission. After talking to Bill Perry it was decided that a rebuilt 1275 and a rebuilt Datsun B210 gearbox would be purchased as an assembled unit. The Rivergate folks are great to work with.Their contact information is below:

Rivergate Restoration Products

340 Reavley Road Sale Creek, TN 37373

423-332-2030 (Fax: 332-6914)

[email protected]

If one was sourcing a gearbox, the following guidance is provided by Rivergate:

Sprite/Midget 5-Speed Kit Transmission Required

A Datsun 5-speed transmission from August 1979 to 1982 Datsun 210. This can be from a coupe, sedan or wagon.

The input and output shafts should be 20mm (about 25/32″) diameter and 18 spline.

The serial number on top of the bellhousing should begin with the letter “F” (FL, FA, FX etc. OK).

The number “60” is cast into the right side of the main case. These transmissions come from the Datsun 210, but the model number for these cars, imbedded in the Serial Number, is B310.

The model number for the transmission, FS5W60A, is sometimes found on the Serial Number plate on the firewall. This is not found on the transmission.

When the transmission is bought, the gearshift lever, throwout bearing carrier and clutch release fork are needed.

The Rivergate Five Speed Conversion Kit includes:

An aluminum adapter machined from a billet of 6061 aluminum

A rear crankshaft seal fitted to the adapter plate to help eliminate oil leaks

A rear motor mount assembly (with 6 durometer 40 pads built in)

A new clutch disc to be used with the standard pressure plate

A pushrod assembly and spacer for the slave cylinder

A plug for the transmission case

A 5/8″ and 3/4″ pilot bushing

Forty bolts and washers for attaching the adapter plate and the transmission

New driveshaft yoke with U-joint installed

Throw-Out Bearing

Rear Transmission Seal

Clutch Alignment Tool

Instructions, detailed, with color photos for clarity

This is the most complete, easiest to install kit ever made for the Spridget. It requires no modification to the engine, the flywheel, the driveshaft, or to the chassis or body of your Sprite or Midget.

Modification Kit Side 1

Modification Kit Side 2

1. Adapter Plate: Machined from 6061 Aluminum billet. All tapped holes have helicoil inserts. Attractive and precision. Replaces original steel plate. The plate includes a rear crankshaft seal integrated into the design.

2.Clutch Slave Cylinder and Hose: You may use the original slave cylinder presently on your Spridget or the billet aluminum cylinder with stainless steel braid covered Teflon hose we offer.

3. Inside: New clutch disc that works with stock pressure plate. No mods to flywheel. New pilot bushing included.

4. Transmission: Five speed overdrive, all synchronized. From 1979-82 Datsun 210. Buy locally or from sources listed here. Expect to pay around $200.00 — maybe less.

5. Gearshift Lever: Shorten it to match length of stock lever. Will use either 5 speed knob or stock Spridget knob.

Driveshaft Yoke: Installation of yoke and U-joint adapts driveshaft without any cutting or modification.
Speedometer Angle Ratio Adapter: Part of Angle Ratio Adapter and Speedometer cable kit. Custom geared to match the rear end ratio and tire circumference on your car. Corrects speedometer reading and makes cable installtion easier and more reliable. Optional item.
Transmission Mount Assembly: Bolts in like stock unit, with bolts up through the crossmember. Utilizes six durometer 40 pads.
Starter Clearance Hole Cover: An optional item, primarily for appearance. Only needed for kits purchased before September 2000.

A Rear Crankshaft Seal System was installed in the 1275 motor we purchased. Rivergate had developed a rear crankshaft seal for Sprites & Midgets. The seal system uses a spring backed neoprene seal, and is incorporated into the aluminum transmission conversion adapter plate. It applies to 948, 1098 and 1275cc engines. No engine teardown nor modification is required for installation, but the engine must be out of the car. It is designed to stop oil leaks at the rear of the engine whether they are from around the crankshaft itself, or if the leak is thru the machined surface between the block and the rear main bearing cap.

The crankshaft seal arrangement is furnished with a tube of special aluminum sealant. In addition to use with the seal, it is large enough to use to seal the adapter to the back of the engine block and the oil pump cover into the adapter plate.

The crankshaft seal requires a specially machined 5 speed conversion kit adapter plate. The plate is furnished as part of the conversion kit. In addition, Rivergate can re-machine any of our adapter plates built since February of 1996 to accept the seal kit. See the price list for information.

Also available is the service of machining the standard Rivergate adapter plate to allow for installation of the Bolt-on rear crankshaft seal available from several of the Spridget and Mini Vendors.

John’s engine1275-1

John’s engine1275-2

The following specifications describe the rebuilt engine purchased from Bill Perry at Rivergate.

Rebuilt 1275cc Sprite/Midget motor, bored .030″ over to give 1301cc.

Includes:

Prepared 1275 Engine

Bored .030″ oversize

Pistons – modern 3 Ring, High Compression

Rod, Main, Thrust Bearings

Oil Pressure Release Valve and Spring

All Gaskets, Front Seal and Valve Stem Seals

Water Pump

Oil Pump

Cam – choice of 266 or 276 Kent Performance Cam

Cam followers

Valve Springs – Upgraded Quality

Timing Chain

Valve Guides

Thermostat

Pricing

Rebuilt 1275cc Sprite/Midget Motor $2,450.00

Balance all Rotating & Reciprocating Parts $125.00

Lighten flywheel – modest lightening for street use $50.00

Aluminum Cylinder Head – Improved flow and performance, Stellite valve seats, 19 pounds lighter than stock, ready for no-lead fuel, bronze valve guides – a beautiful, functional addition to Sprite/Midget – $725 price only applies to a cylinder head purchased with a rebuilt motor.

Additional Options:

New Pressure Plate – should be purchased if balance option is chosen, so it can be balanced with all other rotating parts $69.00

Camshaft – Scatter Pattern SPVP3 or SPVP4, your choice, (others available) $90.00

Convert to 11 studs – Requires Aluminum Cylinder Head and ARP studs $75.00

Tubular Chrom Moly Pushrods $69.00

Convert to use unleaded fuel — bronze valve guides & Stellite valve seats & valves $140.00

ARP Fasteners

Very high quality fasteners as used on most Spridget Race Motors:

Head Stud Set, includes rocker studs $125.00

Main Stud Kit $70.00

Flywheel Bolt Set $18.00

Rod Bolt and Nut Set $106.00

SHIPPING:

Shipped in custom crate which must be promptly returned.

Crate Core Charge is $125.00 (will be applied to orders when billed and refunded when the crate is returned) $125.00

Crating Charge $35.00

Shipping (actual cost) $120.00 to $450.00

If engine is purchased along with a five-speed overdrive conversion kit, the engine will be assembled with the aluminum adapter plate rather than the stock iron rear plate.

Valve Chatter

Tag Archives: Motor

Heater

Engine Rebuild

Safety Check & Rivergate Modifications

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