Engine Post-Installation Check List

Having just installed my engine and gearbox into the car chassis, I thought it might be useful to keep track of the various related installations and connections that need to be made before one turns the ignition key and hits the starter button to fire-up the refreshed engine. I will try to journal this check list of items in the sequence that they are addressed, though I may find that I need to modify the chronology as things unfold.

1. Water temperature sensor wire:

Water Temp Sensor Wire at Intake Manifold

Water Temp Sensor Wire at Intake Manifold

2. Oil Pressure Sensor Wire:

Oil Pressure Sensor Wire

Oil Pressure Sensor Wire

3. Dip Stick – I discovered that the placement of the electric steering pump interfered with the free travel of the dip stick. I found it to be easier to shorten the dipstick than to move the pump!

4. Heater Feed Pipe Hose Connection to Intake Manifold:

Intake Manifold Feed Hose to Heater

Intake Manifold Feed Hose to Heater

5. Heater Return Pipe Hose Connection to the Front Return Pipe at the Side of the Cylinder Head – the XK’s Unlimited stainless pipe does not fit well so I have ordered and offset hose to hopefully compensate for the poor fit.

6. Checked the firewall wiring Ground Strap to Chassis path to make sure all of the wiring is routed under the heater pipes, clutch hydraulic pipe and hose and the alternator cable, note the position of the clips. On final assembly the loose wiring will be in a wire look cover:

Firewall Wiring

Firewall Wiring

7. Wiring Clips below the heater. Two yellow zinc clips, one for the alternator cable, and the other for the collection of smaller gauge wires:

Yellow Zinc Wiring Clips Installed

Yellow Zinc Wiring Clips Installed

8. Flexible Hydraulic Stainless Steel Hose at rear of the cylinder head:

Goodridge Flexible Clutch Hose

Goodridge Flexible Clutch Hose

9. Starter Cable – The cable was previously connected to the starter. The other end was routed to the rear lug of the starter solenoid and secured with a rubber boot over the connection:

Cable from Starter to Solenoid on Firewall

Cable from Starter to Solenoid on Firewall

10. Ground (Earth) Strap – Connected to the firewall with a 5/16″ shake proof washer and a 5/16″ – 24 x 1/2″ hex head bolt:

Ground Strap to Chassis

Ground Strap to Chassis

11. Plenum drain hose – The drain hose was secured to the plenum pipe at the firewall with a hose clamp and routed between the chassis and the transmission, behind the throttle linkage. I zip-tied it to the ground cable at the firewall to make sure that it did not rub against the throttle linkage:

Plenum Hose clamp at Firewall and wiring below pipes

Plenum Hose clamp at Firewall and wiring below pipes

Plenum Drain Hose zip-tied to Ground Cable

Plenum Drain Hose zip-tied to Ground Cable

12. Installed the alternator and its primary cable from the ANL Fuse on the LH engine bay valance. I took advantage of a captive nut already located on the valance as a place to install a yellow-zinc clip to secure the alternator cable.

Alternator to ANL Fuse Cable Installed

Alternator to ANL Fuse Cable Installed

Alternator Cable Valance Clip

Alternator Cable Valance Clip

13. Alternator Pig Tail wiring leads:

Alternator Cable and Pigtail Installed

Alternator Cable and Pigtail Installed

14. Compressor – connected the black wire from the compressor with the black wire from the air conditioner drier.

Compressor Wiring to Valance

Compressor Wiring to Valance

15. Coil wiring – white wire from ignition, fuse position #6 to positive terminal at coil; and white/yellow wire from tachometer to negative terminal at coil:

Coil wiring Installed Tach to - terminal FP6 to + terminal

Coil wiring Installed Tach to – terminal FP6 to + terminal

16. Reservac Tank Vacuum Hose – from brake servo reservac tank check valve to the vacuum line at the RH side of the cylinder block:

Vacuum Hose from Reservac Tank Installed

Vacuum Hose from Reservac Tank Installed

17. Reverse and Top Gear Switch Wiring at Gearbox – Rather than routing these wires as Jaguar did (through the gearbox tunnel) I decided to install a rubber grommet in the tunnel and run the wiring to the interior of the car. Each wire was then connected with two-way snap connectors and will be hidden by the central console:

Grommet for Reverse and Top Gear Wiring

Grommet for Reverse and Top Gear Wiring

Reverse and Top Gear Wiring at Gearbox Cover

Reverse and Top Gear Wiring at Gearbox Cover

18. Change Speed Lever, Rubber Grommet and Retaining Ring – I removed the lever knob and slid the grommet over the lever shaft ( a little petroleum jelly doesn’t hurt), punched holes in the grommet with an awl and installed the ring and grommet with four #4 x 1″ chrome slotted finishing self-tapping screws.

Gear Selector Installed

Gear Selector Installed

Rubber Grommet on Gearbox Cover for Change Speed Lever

Rubber Grommet on Gearbox Cover for Change Speed Lever

19. Breather Assembly – The breather hose/pipe for the engine originally routed to the air cleaner where the mist would be recirculated into the carburetors. In my case, I am not using the original air cleaner and I did not want to recirculate the emissions from the breather pipe to the fuel system anyway.

I chose to use a catch can manufactured by Mishimoto. The can is a very clever design.

Mishimoto Compact Catch Can

Mishimoto Compact 2 Port Catch Can

Of course, a Jaguar owner cannot have a product with a Japanese name on it visibly mounted in the engine bay, (never mind that many of the newer parts used in the restoration probably were produced in China!) so I chose to mount the can on the front suspension crossmember. At this location it is very easy to access to check accumulation. I also used a K&N Filter for the outlet port.

The elbow hose from the breather port on the engine is a 5/8″ I.D. but the fitting on the catch can is a 3/8″” barb so I used a barbed brass step down fitting between the 5/8″ hose and a 3/8″” hose. The straight emissions hose runs from the elbow almost straight downward, and parallel to the servo breather hose, to the catch can.

Breather Elbow Hose

5/8″ to 3/8″ Brass Step Down Fitting for Breather

These photos are dark and it is a challenge to see the mounting of the can. I was able to use a hole that was already in the front crossmember so it was not necessary to drill any holes to mount the catch can. Always a pleasing outcome!

Mishmoto Catch Can Mounted on Front Suspension Crossmember

Mishmoto Catch Can Mounted on Front Suspension Crossmember

K&N Filter on Catch Can Outlet Port

 

 

Engine Rebuild

Clean-up Before Rebuild

I had thought about outsourcing the machine block cleaning and machine work and then rebuilding the engine myself, but thought better of it given time limitations and decided to go ahead and give the complete engine to Mike Gassman at Gassman Automotive http://www.gassmanautomotive.com for a soup to nuts rebuild. Mike and his team had done XK motors before and are experienced with the motor, ignition, fuel system and etc.

I spent a few days cleaning the block and head to remove as much grease and grime as possible before turning everything over to Mike.

Front of Cleaned Engine Before Rebuild

Front of Cleaned Engine Before Rebuild

RH Side of Engine

LH Side Engine

Underside of Engine

Rebuild Engine

Machine Work:

  • Resurface Head
  • Valve Job
  • Install Guides
  • Pressure Test
  • Resurface and weld Exhaust Manifold Cracks
  • Drill for Oversize Lifters
  • Drill for Hold Downs
  • R&R Pistons
  • R&R Bushing Under Over
  • Recondition Big End
  • Grind and Polish Crankshaft
  • Magna-Flux Crankshaft
  • R&R Crank Plugs
  • Rebore and Hone Block
  • Pins
  • Replace Core Plugs
  • Balance Pressure Plate, Cylinder Block
  • Resurface Flywheel
  • Magna-Flux Block
  • Resurface Cylinder Head
  • Polishing Two Valve Covers, Two Carbs Dashpots, Intake Manifold, Oil Cap, Cover and Water Neck

Parts:

Where possible used components in good shape were used in the rebuild; however, in many instances new parts were required to replace worn or broken bits. The original compression for the 3.8 MK2 engine was 9:1; however, primarily because of the lower octane rating of fuel today and due to the way I plan to use this car, I decided to use 8:1 compression Mahle pistons in my rebuild. This is not a complete list and it is in no particular order, but new parts ordered included the following:

  • Cam bearing Set
  • Engine chrome hardware
  • Oil Filter
  • Spin-On Oil Filter Kit
  • Payen Brand Head Set
  • Cylinder Head Studs
  • Seal Kit
  • Lock Tab Kit
  • Thrust Washer Set
  • Piston set
  • Tri-metal Connecting Rod Bearing Set
  • Tri-metal Main Bearing set
  • Core Plug Set
  • Pilot Bushing
  • Clutch Kit
  • Water Pump
  • Timing Chain, Guide and Tensioner kit
  • Lower Gasket Set
  • Tappet Hold Down Kit
  • Tappet Guide
  • Valve Spring Set
  • Oil Pump
  • Oil Pump Adapter
  • Bronze Valve Guide Set
  • Intake Valves
  • Exhaust Valves
  • Oversize Tappets
  • 10W30 Break in Oil with Zinc Additive
  • 15W50 Oil with Zinc
  • Engine and Bearing Assembly Lubricant
  • Sealants/Sealers/Cam Lube
  • Gloss Black paint
  • Metallic Blue Spray Paint for the Cylinder Head
  • Flamethrower Coil
  • Chrome Coil Bracket
  • Flamethrower Ignition Leads
  • Spark Plugs
  • 123 Distributor
  • Brass Nuts
  • Thermostat
  • S.U. Throttle Shaft 1 3/4″ Butterflies
  • S.U. 1 3/4″ Butterflies
  • 5/16 22 BSF Banjo Bolt HD Starting Carb
  • 3.8 MK2 SM/1402 Carb Kits
  • Drive Belt
  • Hoses to Radiator
  • Radiator Hose Clamps
  • Heater Hose
  • Heater Hose Clamps
  • Gear Reduction Starter
  • Engine Ground Strap
  • Oil Pressure Sender
  • Oil Quick Drain Valve
  • Blast, Anneal and Porcelain Coat Exhaust Manifolds
  • Carb Banjo Bolts and Washers
  • Alternator and Mounting Bracket

Rear Main Crankshaft Seal

I did some research on the replacement of the rear main crankshaft seal. A number of the usual vendors sell modern upgrades for this seal to help prevent oil leakage. The apparent most popular upgrade kit does require some machining of the crank.

After checking with those on the saloon-lovers forum and a few other MK2 owners, the consensus seemed to be to stay away from the upgrade kits. However, Peter Wise aka “Old Goat” [email protected] recommended a GraphTite seal made by BEST Gaskets as a modern material upgrade to the original rope seal. The kit is available from EGGE Machine http://www.egge.com  part number: 6382S and it is for a Pontiac 1968-76 8 cylinder 428-455. It is a direct replacement for the rope and does not require any machine work. I cannot explain why the Pontiac V-8 seal works in the MK2 3.8 but Pete claims that it works quite well. I have ordered the kit and Mike and his team installed the seal upon rebuild. The seal kit included an installation tool for $17.39!

GraphTite Rear Main Seal

GraphTite Rear Main Seal

Dynamo Mounting Bracket and Spacer

I probably will not use the dynamo bracket with my alternator, in favor of a turnbuckle brace, but I cleaned it up and painted it  – just in case.

Dynamo Adjustment Bracket

 

Dynamo Bracket

Coil Bracket Extension

Coil Mounting Bracket Extension

Spin-on Oil Filter Kit

Oil Filter Assembly

Oil Filter Assembly

As seen in the image above, the original oil filter is a full flow type and has a renewable felt or paper element. Modern spin-on alternatives are available and I installed the kit provided by SNG Barratt. Purists may object, but most who have installed the spin-on arrangement report success and it is certainly much easier to change.

Spin-on Oil Filter Instructions

SNG Barratt Spin On Oil Filter Kit

SNG Barratt Spin On Oil Filter Kit

Harmonic Balancer

I decided to have the harmonic balancer rebuilt by Dale Manufacturing http://hbrepair.com/harmonicbalancer_018.htm in Salem, Oregon rather than purchase a new one. The rebuild was under $150 and the final product looked pretty good.

Harmonic Balancer

Harmonic Balancer

Timing Marks

Oil Sump Dipstick

Got the dipstick back from the plater. I vaguely recalled that the background on the handle was a somewhat unusual blue color. Someone on the Forum indicated that Revlon’s After Party nail polish was the perfect color, so I ordered some and painted the handle:

Revlon's After Party Nail Polish

Revlon’s After Party Nail Polish

 

Revlon's After Party Nail Polish after Application

Revlon’s After Party Nail Polish after Application

Oil Drain Plug

I ordered an EZ Oil Drain Valve for XK Engines from Cool Cat Express just to make the oil drain process a little easier. As their advertisement says; “This all aluminum drain valve mounts permanently in place of your drain plug. A simple twist of the wrist will open and close it. No more stripped threads, no more lost plugs. One piece aircraft quality 6061 aluminum and 302 stainless steel. Aluminum has clear anodized finish for long, corrosion free life. Seals are replaceable. Nothing to break, nothing to lose: saves labor, saves your oil pan, save aggravation. The perfect companion for our spin on conversion kits! Fits all Jaguar oil pans with 5/8″-18 thread. This includes ALL XK motors, and many V12’s.”

This is a photo of the Valve and the plug it replaces:

Cool Cat Express Oil Drain Plug

Here is a photo of the new valve installed:

Cool Cat Express Oil Drain Valve Installed

Engine Rebuild Process

Mike Gassman Installing bearings

Mike Gassman Installing Bearings

Engine Block

Engine Block

Crankshaft

Crankshaft

New Main Bearings

Connecting Rods

Timing Gear Chain

Pistons & Timing Gear

RetroAir Aluminum Pulleys

 

 

 

123 Distributor

New Porcelain Exhaust

Primary Coolant Hoses

Engineering Art

Compressor & Shield

New Belt Routing

Distributor

Spin-on Filter

Front View

Engine Run-In

After Mike and his staff got the engine together they made a test stand so that we could do preliminary adjustments and make sure we were leak free. I am trying Evans Waterless Coolant in this engine and it was used in the testing.

All of the attention to balancing really paid off as the engine runs very smoothly with very little vibration. Everything checked out beautifully.

Thanks to Mike for a beautiful engine and a beautiful job. I recommend him to others without reservation.

The Gassman Team

The Gassman Team

Engine Testing

Engine Testing

Engine Testing

Maestro Mike

Maestro Mike