The Bloody Beast “To-Do” List

Rear Disc Brakes

Caliper Modification

I have never been pleased with the fit of the rear brake rotors with the handbrake calipers. Steve Gerow ran into the same problem – the diameter of the rotor is about 1/4″ to great to fit the calipers properly. I like how he “fixed” the problem and when I have time I think I will take the same approach.

The Problem - Handbrake Needs to Be Modified

The Problem – Handbrake Needs to Be Modified

The fix - grind the housing back about .0275" and add washer stack

The fix – grind the housing back about .0275″ and add washer stack



Proportioning Valve

While I do not have a significant problem with the front/rear proportioning of the brakes after installing the rear disc system, some slight modification might yield a little improvement. Steve Gerow used a proportioning valve that provides the answer to optimal tuning. This is how he mounted his valve:

Proportioning Valve

Proportioning Valve


“Stock brake pipe wasn’t long enough; I cut and reflared it near the motor mount.

New line shown in photo was attached with a connector.”

“Adjustment – method was suggested with the car on jackstands:
to have an assistant lightly gradually apply the brakes while hand-turning a front and back wheel. Start with 7 turns on adjuster; adjust to the point where front brakes just locked and rears braking but still moveable.”

Valve Installed

Valve Installed















Ignition Modification


Steering Box Upgrade

At some point I would like to install new components form Denis/Welch. There is a question about standard versus high ratio.

Magnus Karlsson recommends the high ratio:

Go for the high ratio and tell your mechanic to look at my homepage. There you can see a modification I do in order to fit a modern and bigger oil seal to
the outgoing shaft of the steering  box. Makes it absolutely leak free and you
can use hypoid oil as intended.

Magnus Karlsson


Chapter 9 – Disassembly

Steering Column Sealing Plate – Removed four sheet metal screws securing each of two sealing plates through which the steering column passes. Note the felt “gaskets” on the inside face of the plates.

Front Suspension and Steering  

The disassembly of the front suspension and steering assembly was a messy job. Lots of grease and grime built up over the years. I first jacked up the car. Disconnected the cross tube and side rods from the steering levers. The cross tube was 5/16” from the side to the nuts. Released cotter pins and took lever arms off. Used a fork and hammer to free the ball joints from the side rods at the inner and outer connections. Pulled the rods off.

Stub Axle Carrier, King Pin, Caliper, Dust Shield

Cross Tube, Ball Joint, Steering lever and Side Rod

RH Steering Lever

Stub Axle Carrier, King pin, Dust Shield

Cross Tube and Side rods

LH Steering Lever

Cross Tube Ball Joints –  were removed by repeating the same action as above. Unscrewed the mounting bolts from the steering box. This requires removing the 7/16” bolt that secures the left brake flexible fluid hose. 

Steering box – After removing the mounting bolts, the box and rod can be pulled out through the front of the car.

Steering Box in Place

Steering Box Oil Filler Cap

Steering Box Side View

Steering Box Mounting Position

Steering Idler –  Unscrewed three bolts to the mounting bracket and lifted the idler away.

Steering Idler

Steering Idler 2

Aluminum Spacer Block Mount

Aluminum Bracket Spacers – for steering box and steering idler were removed. They appeared to be interchangeable.

Removing Aluminum Spacer Block

Aluminum Spacer Block

Front Suspension Coil Springs – Removed two bolts and nuts at a diagonal. Nuts on top and bolt heads under bottom spring bracket plate. (this is opposite the picture in the manual so we need to check other cars before reinstalling) Inserted two threaded rods with nuts into those holes. Then removed the other two mounting bolts and nuts. Finally, gradually relieved pressure on the threaded rods until spring tension was removed. The left spring was broken on the bottom coil.

Coil Spring and “A” Arm with spring pan removed

Spring Pan

Anti-Sway Bar Bracket

Tub on Stands

Front Suspension Arms, Brake Rotors and etc.  It was difficult to remove the arm bushings. They required extensive “torching” for heat and hammering, but all eventually released. Then removed the fulcrum pin securing the shock absorber arms and the four bolts to the shock towers on the frame. One hole on the right tower had been stripped and broken. Each shock had the remains of rubber rebound buffers on the towers. Once the shock was removed this permitted the removal of the left and right king pins and assembled units.

Front Shock Perch

Bent “A” Arm Bracket


Radiator Brackets were removed from the frame. Two 1/2” bolts for each bracket. We will be replacing the original radiator with an aluminum unit from Cape International.

Radiator Lower Mount

Radiator Mount Bracket

Radiator Brackets Removed