Category Archives: BT7 From Disassembly to Paint

Chapter 23 – Cleaning and Trial Fitting

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January 15, 2005

Turn Signal Audible Buzzer – I had used a little buzzer produced by Radio Shack in the Bugeye and decided that I would add one in the Big Healey also. I will just use a little 3M double sided sticker to fasten it to the fascia support bar since it is so light. That will get it as close as possible to the driver. The buzzer has 2 wires. Red wire is joined to a pink wire that is routed through the firewall and connected to the center post on the flasher canister. The black wire is grounded by connecting it to the fascia support bar screw and nut.

Buzzer Mounting

Signal buzzer radio shack

Signal buzzer connection

Signal buzzer wiring

January 22, 2005

Other Accommodations to Modern Technology

Electric windscreen washer – I read a technical article by Stu Brennan, an owner of a Sunbeam Tiger, who had converted his hand activated pump windscreen washer to an electric washer. I liked the idea because he put the electric switch in the aluminum pump canister thereby eliminating the need to install an additional switch somewhere. Since the washer in the Tiger is the same as the one in the Healey I decided to give it a try.

Two items needed to be purchased for the conversion. As Stu did, I used an electric pump purchased at an AutoZone, part number 9-300 from TAAP Corp. I purchased a Home Depot switch, Gardner-Bender, Push Button, GSW-22, SPST always-off.

The old pump was easily disassembled by un-crimping the lip from around the plastic bottom. The metal is relatively soft, so it unfolds easily. The bottom and the old rubber bellows came right out, leaving only the plunger within the shell of the pump.

Windscreen washer pump 2

Windscreen washer pump 3

To provide stability for the switch in the canister and to use as a spacer I cut a circle washer of 1/4” wide plywood that fit tightly in the canister and placed it on the switch secured with double nuts.

Windscreen washer pump 4

To provide enough depth for the switch in the canister I cut a slot in the plastic face plate. The slot also provided space for the switch wires to exit the canister.

Windscreen washer pump 5

Power comes from a switched terminal on the ignition switch, and is connected to the new red wiring through an in-line fuse holder. From the other side of the switch, a new red wire carries power to the white wire on the pump. The “negative“ side – black wire –  of the pump is grounded at the mounting bracket.

The connectors for the water tubing on the pump are larger than that used on the shroud fittings and the tube from the reservoir. I purchased a plastic transition piece that fit the larger fitting on the pump and the smaller fittings elsewhere.

I mounted the pump in the interior in the right side pedal box space. At that location it is virtually impossible to see. I made a small bracket that allowed me to secure the pump to one of the 1/4” bolts that is used for the throttle shaft bracket if it were a RHD car. I did replace the 1/2” blanking hex bolt with a 1” bolt, giving enough length to fit the bracket.

Windscreen washer pump

Intermittent Wiper Control – Ed Esslinger, a member of the TigerUnited club designed and built a wiper control unit to provide intermittent wiping of the windscreen and made them available for sale. [email protected]  334-774-5155.

The green wire TO the wiper motor must be disconnected so that the delayed 12V can be applied to it from the Wiper Control (WC) unit. Disconnect the battery.

Disconnect the black/green wire from the dash switch. Connect the white/yellow wire from the WC to the switch terminal where the black/green wire was removed.

Connect the red/yellow wire from the WC to the black/green wire that was disconnected from the switch.

Connect the black wire from the WC to the terminal on the wiper switch that already has a bleck wire, which must be left connected. (Black wire can be connected to any good ground point.)

Reinstall the wiper switch to the fascia.

Route the long white/blue wire from the WC to the wiper motor. Connect the green wire from the motor to the white/blue wire.

Route the long white/green wire and the white/brown wires from the WC through the grommet in the firewall. Connect the white/green wire to the fuse block terminal with the other green wires. (switched 12V). Connect the white/brown wire to the to the fuse block with the fused side – brown wires, this is the unswitched 12V. It may have purple wires attached to it.

I then mounted the WC to the steering wheel bracket with a plastic tie strap. 

Intermittent wiper 1

I mounted the remote interval control on the fascia bottom to the left of the wiper switch. Reconnect the battery.

Intermittent wiper switch 2

Intermittent wiper switch 1

Testing procedure

Wet the windscreen. Make sure the remote control and the wiper switch is turned off. 

Turn the ignition on.

Turn on the wiper switch – wipers should work normally.

With the wiper switch on, turn off the ignition switch. Wipers should continue to run and park themselves.

With the wiper switch still on, turn the ignition back on. Wipers should not operate.

With the ignition still on, turn off the wiper switch for a few seconds. Place the wiper switch on. Wipers should now work normally.

With the wiper switch on, rotate the remote interval clockwise. After a few seconds the wiper will operate in the intermittent mode, and can be adjusted to run from a few seconds to about 60 seconds.

Controlling the Headlights when the wipers are onEd’s kit also provides a connection to permit the headlights to be turned on when the wipers are turned on. Directions for the relay are provided below:

100-6 headlight control_1

February 12, 2005

More Modifications for Comfort

Driver’s Seat Angle Adjustment – I borrowed an idea from someone on the healey list-serve to make driving the 3000 a bit more comfortable for a person over 6 feet. I purchased 4 “couplers”, 1/4”-28 x 7/8.” 

On the most forward (closest to the steering wheel) studs on the seat rail mechanisms, I simply screwed the coupler onto to the stud. After the seat is in place the coupler is secured with 1/4” – 28 x 1/2” hex bolt (flat and lock washer).

On the middle stud, I cut the coupler so that is was approximately 1/2” long. I then cut off the stud on the seat rail so that it was only about 3/8” long. I then screwed the coupler onto the shortened stud and secured it to the seat frame with another 1/4”-28 x 1/2” hex bolt.

Finally, the third seat rail stud is left as is and the seat frame is attached secured with a 1/4”-28 nut with washers. 

Seat Rail riser 2

Seat rail Riser 1

This modification slightly tilts the driver’s seat to the rear providing a little extra shoulder/arm reach to the wheel. I found the new position more comfortable. I decided against the modification for the passenger seat fearing that it might cut leg blood circulation unnecessarily. The visual appearance is only slightly different and probably only noticed by those who knew what was done.

Carpet Installation 

I received my Wilton Wool carpet from Heritage Upholstery and Trim. Everything looked great – very high quality. However, I was disappointed that the light beige carpet color was not exactly what I was looking for. I have decided to switch colors and will order black carpet for an all black interior.

Although I wanted to go ahead an install the snaps on the floor boards and the gearbox cover before the car was painted. I decided to wait until final assembly. I really didn’t want to position the larger floor mat pieces until the footbox and siderail pieces were glued in place to insure the proper overlap and fitting in general. Since I cannot do the gluing of the smaller pieces until final assembly, I will just wait on this little project.

 

 

 

Chapter 22 – Cleaning and Trial Fitting

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January 1, 2005

Soft Top Frame 

Installed the webbing pull tabs on freshly painted brackets. Used four number 6 stainless sheet metal screws to the frame.

Soft Top Pull Strap

Soft top frame webbing 1

Hardtop Headliner Installation 

Hardtop Headliner – I took the unrestored headliner on its frame to Gerry Smith at Classic Upholstery to have him look at it before I took it apart. He will install the new headliner on the frame. The fabric came from Bill Bolton. Gerry was ready for the task so I headed home to take things apart to clean up and paint the frame. 

Headliner old – on frame

Headliner-old- on frame 4

I bent back the securing tabs on the inside of the frame rails. There were six tabs on the front rail, all bent to the right. On the right vertical rail there were 3 tabs all bent down. On the left side there were also 3 tabs, but they were bent up. The bottom rail had 6 tabs, all bent to the right.

Headliner-old- on frame 8

Headliner-old- on frame 9

The headliner is actually three separate pieces of fabric sewn together and fastened to the frame with staples. The extra material at each seam is folded around the frame rails. There were approximately 6 staples in each section.

Headliner-old- on frame 2

Headliner-old- on frame 5

Headliner-old- on frame 6

Headliner-old- on frame 7

Hardtop Headliner Frame – The frame rails had contact cement on them to secure the fabric in addition to the tabs. The rear rail had felt on the inside (toward the headliner & interior).

Headliner-old- on frame 10

Headliner-old- on frame 11

Headliner felt on frame 1

Headliner felt on frame 2

Cleaned up! Painted and new felt.

Headliner frame restored

Headliner frame new felt

Headliner new felt 2

Hardtop Headliner Front Pad – Then I went to work on the front pad for the headliner. The foam rubber was in remarkably good shape for 45 years old! It will be fine to use again. It was apparently made by an Italian division of Dunlop?

Headliner front pad 1

Headliner front pad 2

Headliner front pad 4

Headliner front pad 5

Headliner front pad 8

Headliner front pad 9

 

Soft Top Front Rail – Finished the assembly of the convertible top front windscreen bow. Fastened the aluminum front rail with 15 1/2” flat head stainless screws. Cleaned and reassembled the two fastener clasps and mounted them to the bow with 3/4” #10 pan head screws.

Soft top bow rail

Soft top bow clasps 1

Soft top bow clasps 3

Soft top bow clasps 2

January 2, 2005

Interior Courtesy Lights 

I fabricated mounting brackets for each of the lights for the interior footwells. I mounted the driver’s side bracket to the clutch master cylinder lower mounting bolt to avoid having to drill any new holes in the car. This required using a 11/2” 5/16” bolt rather than the customary 1” bolt. The right courtesy light bracket was mounted to the 2, 1/4” fixed nuts for RHD throttle pedal mounts. Also done to avoid drilling any new holes.

Courtesy light left 1

Courtesy light right 1

Courtesy light right 2

Courtesy light right 3

Courtesy light right 4

 

Chapter 21 – Cleaning and Trial Fitting

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November 28, 2004

Boot Latch/Lock Assembly 

Boot Latch/Lock Assembly Installation – Installed the boot lock and handle assembly along with a new rubber gasket that looks like it will need to be slightly trimmed before final installation. The striker plate mounted to the frame assembly with three bolts needed to be loosened and shifted upward as far as it would move. The lock mounted in the boot lid needed to be shifted downward before tightening.

Boot lock handle 1

Boot lock handle 2

Spare Tire Leather Retaining Strap –  This was hard to find and I finally ordered it from Cape International.

spare tire leather strap 1

Spare tire leather strap 2

Gearbox cover extension panel – Jeremy Turner modified the extension panel for me to fit the Toyota tranny. As usual he did a wonderful job. I tried it out and it appeared to fit well. I called Duncan at Heritage Upholstery and Trim and ordered the light beige Wilton wool carpet with their domestic pad for the car. I sent them the extension panel to cover with carpet since it would be a custom fit. I also asked him to provide the carpet for the sideshift gearbox cover, but with no hole for the shifter. I will cut it to fit after trying it in the car. He will include the “parchment” vinyl for trimming the gearbox cover and around the handbrake lever for the propshaft tunnel. As usual with the british car vendor fraternity Heritage was very helpful to make sure I got what I needed.

Gearbox cover extension 2

Soft Top Frame – I also picked up the reconditioned and painted soft top frame from Jeremy. He custom matched the paint color and again did a beautiful job.

Soft top frame 2

Soft top frame 1

Soft top frame 3

Hardtop “J” Hooks – I disassembled the front J hooks for the hardtop and will send the hooks by themselves to the chromer. Both J hooks have about 7/16” of the threads exposed after the tightening nuts.The clamps are in good condition and I will just polish them. 

I ordered new J hooks for the rear side clamps for the hardtop from Cape International as well as new mounting brackets. I have not decided yet if I will use the new ones or the originals.

Hardtop front clasps 1

Hardtop front clasps 2

Hardtop J hooks 1

Wooden soft top front bow –  Secures the bow to the aluminum front rail with approximately 15 1/2” #8 counter sunk wood screws. 

Hardtop Hardware – I cleaned and painted the hardtop vertical support braces as well as the front corner brackets with Eastwood wire wheel silver and clear coat paint. They turned out very nice. I also cleaned and painted the mounting clips for the cockpit aluminum molding.

Shroud trim nuts 1

Hardtop front brackets

Hardtop braces 2

Chapter 20 – Cleaning and Trial Fitting

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July 3, 2004

Boot Armacord Liner 

Test installed the boot liner material from Heritage. Won’t be gluing it in until after the car is painted. Everything seemed to fit fine and the material looked great. 

3M spray adhesive is claimed to work well. Install before fuel tank, but after the fuel tank strap brackets are affixed, and before the battery cable fixture is added and before all wood blocks are secured. Be sure to put holes or cuts in fabric.

Install the cardboard fuel neck cover after the tank and filler pipe – will need to drill three holes after material is glued in.

I reboxed everything and stored it in the coat closet downstairs.

The panel install order is below:

1 Battery cable vertical panel – glue

2 Left wheel well curved panel – glue

3 Left vertical wall panel – glue

4 Right vertical wall panel – glue

5 Left floor well – glue

6 Right floor well – glue

7 Back vertical wal -l glue

8 Rear shroud panel ?

9 Floor Panel – not glued

Boot Liner 1

Left Wheel Arch Panel

Left Floor Well Panel

Right Floor Well Panel

Fuel Pipe cover

Floor liner Panel

I didn’t think about getting the hylomar sealant in the fuel tank when I sealed the sender unit gasket. I will need to replace, clean, and reseal more carefully.

Fastened both tapped plates that secure the rear wings to the superstructure to the body temporarily. They may not be in the right location.

Wing tapped bracket

Air Control Assembly – Installed the front left air control assembly. It did not fit real well due to some bending done by Martin but after some convincing the job was accomplished.

Fresh Air Assembly 1

Fresh Air Assembly 2

Fresh Air Assembly 3

July 11, 2004

Heater Installation 

I purchased a modern replacement for the original Smiths Heater from Cape International. The heater is basically the same footprint, but it incorporates the fan blower making the original fan blower extraneous or irrelevant. The provided mounting plate to the cold air box was installed upside down and backwards which threw me for a minute. After reversing the plated the heater installed nicely using the four #10 x 1/2” original mounting locating screws.

New heater 1

Heater Cape Int 1

Heater Valve 4

I drilled a slightly larger hole in the included water control valve control arm to permit the installation of a cable connector with tightening screw to secure the wire and cable sheath.

I could not figure out how to connect the water control valve in a way that would permit using the dash control slide knob as originally intended. Instead it works exactly in reverse. Oh well, small price to pay! 

Replaced the original cable sheath and wire with a bicycle brake cable for smoother operation of the slide control to the water control valve. Worked nicely. 

Heater Valve 3

Heater Valve 5

I received a new Smiths heater blower from Hemphills that proved to be a very nice replica of the old one. I installed a the new blower on the fender superstructure. 

Blower and hose

Heater Blower Mounting

Heater Blower Hose 3 inch

The new blower will now be used to “push” cold air into the passenger side of the interior. I purchased a new air control assembly typically used on the left side of the car. I cut off the mounting flange and inserted it into the ait tube.The right hand knob on the heater panel that used to control the heater can now be used to control fresh air into the cockpit on the passenger side.The cable clamp must be located just as in the photo accessible below the car to get the maximum movement on the air control valve. I need to get some nylon mesh to screen the front air intake. This will give a very “neat” and elegant installation. The cold air will empty just above the parcel shelf in the interior. 

Heater Hoses

Heater Hose Assembly

Inverted Control Cable connections

I used band hose clamps which cut into the duct hose so when I install the final time I will switch to the wire clamps as used on the car originally. The 4” hose could be approximately 1” longer on final install and the 3” hose could be slightly shorter. I discovered that one needs to clamp the 3” hose to the blower before tightening the blower to the inner fender. 

The wiring connections are used as originally fitted. Green and a green/brown wire connect to the two black wires on the dash slide control. The single green wire from the harness connects to the blower on the wheel arch. New wiring and a switch will be added to control the new two speed heater.

Cut the two demister hoses to length and installed them from the top of the heater to the dash superstructure. 

Heater demister hoses

Heater demister hoses 2

Fascia Installation  – Fit the fascia to the body. Mounts with four chrome screws and nuts at the corners. One additional screw mounts on the face of the fascia through to the body in the top center. Another locates the brace from the firewall. Upon installation I discovered that the steering column contacted the bottom of the chrome ring surround in the fascia so I moved the column mounting bracket to a higher securing hole on the column brace. 

Steering wheel new setting

Fascia Instruments

Heater Control Panel

Filed the edges of the control panel very carefully and improved the fit to the fascia considerably.

Heater control 1

Heater control 2

Blanking Plate – Installed the blanking plate on the right side of the car to cover the master cylinder mounting holes for a RHD car. Used #8 1/2” sheet metal screws into four J nut fasteners. The original plate had tar paper on the back side to seal and insulate, so I will need to do something similar on final install, after the final paint is applied.

Blanking plate install 2

Blanking Plate install 3

Fresh Air Contol Cable – Passenger Side

Drilled the small hole in the firewall next to the tach cable grommet to 5/8” and added a rubber grommet to run the new cool air cable through the firewall. 

Hole for cold air cable

Hole for cold air cable 2

October 15, 2004

Gearbox Cover and Extension Installation 

The original gearbox cover and extension were unusable due to rust. I ordered a new extension panel from Kilmartin and a fiberglass gearbox cover from British Car Specialists. While the cover seemed to be a good fit and will certainly be cooler than the original metal cover, the extension panel did not fit over the Smitty bell housing for the Toyota transmission conversion.

Gearbox cover 1

Gearbox cover extension 1

I trimmed the extension panel and then fitted it to the firewall bulkhead. I first placed 1/2” weatherstripping on the bulkhead and then drilled the mounting holes needed – three per side – to secure the panel to the bulkhead. I then drilled two holes in the cover footing to screw it into the frame.

Gearbox cover extension 3

I measured the distance from the metal driveshaft tunnel to the center of the shifter – 13.” Then I installed the cover and measured the same 13” distance and marked it on the cover. I drilled a small hole in the cover just to check the proper location with the shifter. I then drilled a 3 1/4” hole in the center of the gearbox cover for the center shifter. Location was perfect! I used a rubber boot and mounting ring from an MGB as suggested by Smitty. This required drilling 4 small holes for #8 stainless screws.

Toyota shifter installed 2

Toyota shifter installed 1

Now that the gearbox cover was properly located I drilled 4 holes into the frame or floorboard on the right side of the cover and 5 on the left side and fastened the cover to the floor. 

Gearbox cover 3

I was then able to establish what would become the permanent relationship between the gearbox cover and the extension panel. I measured and drew a template for the floor and measured the distance from the top of the cover to the top of the extension panel – 7 3/8.”

Finally, I recreated the assembly on a piece of 1/2” plywood and secured the panels to the plywood. I added an extra mounting screw on the floor tab of the extension panel to help steady the panel.

Gearbox cover assembly 1

Gearbox assembly Cover 2

 

Chapter 19 – Cleaning and Trial Fitting

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May 28, 2004

Front Splash Panels 

Splash Panels – Installed left and right splash panels. I needed to drill 4 new holes on each side of the car in the frame uprights. The left side was difficult and took some hammering and grinding but eventually got it to fit. Use 8 #10 1/2” pan screws to secure.

Right splash panel 1

Right splash panel 2

Radiator Air Deflector – Installed radiator air deflector with two 5/16” x 5/8” bolts.

Air deflector 3

Air deflector 1

Bonnet Upright Brackets – Note the way they are mounted in the photos.

RH Bonnet opening brace 2

LH Bonnet opening brace 3

Front Wing Mounting Brackets – Installed left and right front wing support brackets using 4 1/4” x 3/4” hex head bolts.

RH Shroud bracket 1

LH Shroud bracket 2

June 18, 2004

Rear Axle Revisited 

Differential – Installed the differential pumpkin and bearing caps in the differential casing. I will be installing the 3.44 crown and pinion in the car when it is drivable, but to get a rolling chassis I just put the old differential back in with no pinion gear. Fastened the differential to the axle and inserted the half shafts and tightened them down with the small locating flat head screws. Affixed the rear brake disc rotors and calipers fastened the hub extensions to the axle with the 5 locking hub nuts.

Installing the Rear Axle – After removing the fuel pump and the left bump box we “walked” the axle with the differential into the chassis and superstructure. I may have been able to leave the fuel pump had we had more access room on the right side of the car, but that wasn’t available. I then secured the axle with the Ubolts and the brackets for the tube shocks. The key here is to start each side loosely and then return to fully tighten each side. I never could get the tube shocks to align with the brackets and Udo Putzke thinks it may be because the Jule frame is slightly different than the original AH frame. To his credit he has agreed to make some longer shaft shocks at cost – great customer service!

Bilsteins won’t align

Spring Work

Rear Brake Hose – Added the new stainless braided brake hose between the brake line and the rear junction on the axle.

Stainless Rear Brake line

This work allowed me to put the car on the ground as a rolling chassis for the first time – a significant milestone. In honor of the occasion I stuck on two fenders and placed a seat in the interior for photos. All just for fun. It lasted ten minutes and then off came the wheels/tires and wings and then back up on jack stands for more work! The shiny bonnet is a sample paint color that I would ultimately not use.

Four 0n the Floor 1

1st sitting

1st sitting 5

Driving Light and Tow Brackets – I received the front spotlight and tow hook brackets from Cape International and the rear bumperette (sprite) or Rally Car brackets and “bumpers.”  I discovered that Martin Jansen had not included the threaded tubes for the front bumper that go through the frame. Instead Martin’s are only on the outside of the frame rails which is fine for the bumper brackets, but the spotlight tow hook brackets also have one mounting hole on the inside of the frame rails. I located the holes on the inside of the rail with  3/8” drilled hole and will get Jeremy Turner to add threaded tubes later in the restoration. I also received Kilmartin panels for the frame rails that include the welded nuts for the anti-sway bar and I will give them to Jeremy as well.

Driving light tow hook bracket

Driving Light frame Hole

anti-sway bar frame bracket

Horns – Started on the horn installation. The original horns for the Mark I are no longer available so I used the later version. The older horns must have been a little smaller in diameter, because the horns rubbed against the splash panels when connected with the brackets I had. I modified the brackets by adding a mounting hole and grinding off a bit of the bracket to “shift” the horns toward the center of the car. All of this seemed to work flawlessly, but once again I encountered a job that probably should have taken 10 minutes that ended up taking two hours. The horn wiring harness extensions provided by British Wiring were not needed so I crimped some new connectors on the wire in place of the original bullet connectors and attached them to the horns. The new horns were interesting – both brand new – one gloss black and one satin. I will have Jeremy repaint them.

Horn install left

June 18, 2004

Fuel Sender Unit – Installed the fuel sender unit in the new aluminum fuel tank. The sender unit did not line up exactly as the original because the holes in the tank are not as they were in the steel tank. I sealed the sender unit with a new cork gasket and with Hylomar. Each of the small mounting screws received new copper washers.

Fuel sender unit

New Fuel Tank – Secured the new fuel tank with the two securing straps which I had slightly lengthened to make the fit better. The securing straps fastened to the rear boot wall with brackets and clevis pins.

Aluminum Fuel Tank

Spare tire fitment

Spare Tire Block and Bracket – Installed the new stainless steel spare tire bracket and tie down bar. I had to make a new vinyl covered block to fit on the back boot wall to accommodate the higher spare tire and the slight rise that was “built in” by Martin Jansen. Turned out pretty well. I actually used old naugahyde from my original reupholstery work on the car 20+ years ago!

Spare tire bracket and block 1

spare tire bracket and block 2

Spare Tire Block covering

Fuel Filler Pipe – Installed the fuel pipe rubber gasket on the rear shroud. Lightly smeared Vaseline on the lower section of the fuel pipe and pushed it through the gasket into the boot. The  Aston Cap is secured to the fuel tube with a threaded brass collar. David Nock advised that I should fasten the collar to the tube by reversing the ends and brazing the collar to the tube’s unfinished end. Then I cut off the old cap end to put into the rubber sleeve to connect to the tank neck.

Aston filler Cap 1

Aston threaded collar

Fuel tube cut off

Aston fuel cap on pipe

Steering Cross Bar – After discovering that the new cross bar for the steering was for a BJ8 I ordered new ends and installed the original cross rod. I probably could have used the BJ8 bar but it looked like the original provided a little more adjustment which I think I needed.

Cross rod right

Cross rod left

 

Chapter 18 – Cleaning and Trial Fitting

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April 18, 2004

Front Suspension Installation Continued 

I had the front swivel or king pins refurbished by Bruce Phillips at Healey Surgeons. I then followed the steps in the workshop manual:

Fit the new lower fulcrum pin into the lower trunnion being careful to center it, and then secure it with the two cotter pins. 

Placed the cork rings in their recesses on the lower trunnion and then fit the lower wishbone arms to the trunnion. Ensured that the half-moon cotters were correctly positioned and then greased and screwed the new steel bushes partially home.

Bolted the lower spring plate to the wishbone arms to establish proper positioning.

Threaded the steel bushes home evenly and then backed off a flat or two until .002” feeler gauge will fit between wishbone arm and the bush. Tighten cotters but was careful not to overtighten. The lower trunnion assembly should operate freely in the screwed bushes.

Place the cork washer on the top of the swivel pin and pushed it down to the bottom. Smeared swivel pin shaft with engine oil and placed the hub assembly on the swivel pin.

Fit a staybright washer followed by an oilite washer and then another staybright washer on top of the hub assembly on the pin. I soaked the oilite washer in oil overnight so that it would absorb the oil into its pores. 

Fit the upper trunnion and swivel nut. Nut should be tightened down (40 to 60lbs of torque) to allow a maximum of .002” lift. Pin should turn freely but snuggly.

Then released swivel pin nut.

Removed the spring plate from the wishbone arms to gain some flexibility in fitting the arms to the frame brackets.

Fit the two poly bushes to each lower wishbone link and pushed them into the frame brackets. 

Replaced the spring plate.

Inserted the fulcrum pins through the bushes and installed the second set of bushes through the frame bracket. Put the special washer with tab locator on the back of the bracket and lightly secured with a castel nut, not screwed home.

Fit the lever shock to the shock tower and insert mounting bolts. Fit the Putzke’s tube shock conversion bracket on the front of the lever shock with special long bolts and tightened lightly.

Front suspension left 6

Front suspension left 7

Placed the new upper trunnion bushes in place. I used poly bushes supplied from Udo Putzke.

Loosened the shock absorber arm mounting bolt.

Placed the upper trunnion with the bushes in position between the shock arms. Refit the fulcrum pin and tightened lightly after securing to the shock absorber.

Then set the assembly under proper load position. Accomplished by placing a two inch block (distance piece) under the shock arm opposite the rubber buffer.

Front suspension left 4

Tightened the fulcrum pin castle nuts for the lower wishbone arms in the frame brackets and insert split pins.

Tightened the four shock bolts to the shock tower plate. 

Tightened the upper trunnion fulcrum pin nut and place split pin.

Removed the spring plate and then used 3/8” threaded rod in seven inch lengths to hold new coil spring and plate in place. The lower mounting bracket for the Putzke tube shock conversion was attached to the rear lower wishbone arm at this time.

Front suspension left 2

Gradually tightened the rods until fully in place. Then replaced rods with proper spring plate bolts and tightened.

Installed new tube shock which required jacking up the shock tube slightly to align the mounting holes.

Front suspension left 5

April 24, 2004

Front Shroud Grill 

I couldn’t resist finding out how the grill would look in the shroud so I polished the original upper surround piece and installed it along with the Austin Healey motif on the shroud. The motif came from Hemphills and looked good. The upper surround uses 1/4” – 28 x 5/8” with two #10 – 32 x 1/2” screws on the left and right sides. The motif pieces has #8 posts.

Grill brow mounting

Grill brow

Grill exterior side mounting

Healey Shroud Motif

May 9, 2004

I borrowed Jeremy Turner’s cert nut pliers and installed cert nuts where the original fixed nuts were once located – light relay, insulation panels, dimmer switch, boot floor tie down staple and etc. Slow job but the nuts seem to work effectively. You drill a 9/32” hole for the #10 cert nuts and a 3/8” hole for the 1/4” cert nut. Then I installed the spare tire bump block on the left side of the boot wall. This block is supposed to use fixed nuts but I decided to use nuts with lock washers instead.

Spare Tire block

Motor Mounts – Removed the motor mounts from the motor to take to Jeremey’s for blasting and painting.

Motor Mount – Left 1

Motor Mount – Left 2

Motor Mount – Left 3

Motor Mount – Left 4

May 16, 2004

Front Suspension Again

Front Shocks – Installed right front lever shock. Left the rear bolts loose and fit the Putzke tube shock mounting bracket to the front two mounting holes. Inserted the two inch wood block spacer to set the height of the suspension. Loosened the shock absorber arm bolt and nut so that the shock will receive the trunnion.

Putzke shock adaptor – right front

suspension install – right

Control Arm Base Plate – Used 3/8” threaded rods to install coil spring with plate

coil spring install

Disk Brake Dust Shield – Attached dust cover assembly to the front left spindle axle with two short bolts at top. I installed with the caliper attached but it will need to be removed before installing the rotor and hub. Attached new stainless steel brake hose from pipe to caliper bracket. Secured the left steering arm to the back of the swivel axle and used the tab washer to lock both bolts.

Dust shield – left

Brake hose connection left front

Steering arm – left installed

Tab washer on suspension

Front Brake Rotors and Hubs – Fastened rotor disk to the hub extension with 5 nylock nuts. Placed bearing races in the freezer so they would be easier to install in the front hub extensions. Then inserted inside bearing race with proper driver with application of a hammer!, being careful to keep the race/driver straight. Turned the hub over and did the same procedure with the outside bearing race.

Inside front bearing race install

Left front inside bearing – 126-000 GHB105

SET 6 LM67048 – LM67010

20031255

Left front outside bearing – 620-234 GHB182

07196

20030322

Left front bearing race- 620-231

07087

20030522

Right front inside bearing – 126-000 GHB105

SET 6 LM67048 – LM67010

20031255

Right front inside bearing – 620-234 GHB182

07087

20030522

Right front bearing race – 620-232

07196

20020422

Front Hub Bearings – I followed directions from Bruce at Healey Surgeons and put 90 weight oil on the inner bearing and offered it up to the spindle. The oil will provide protection from damage due to bearing running dry but at the same time, not give a false reading when trying to shim the bearings.

I then placed the spacer (cone) on the spindle followed by the hub extension. I then put an oil filled outer bearing on the axle followed by the tab washer and castle nut. The seal and shims were NOT added at this stage. The nut was tightened down to seat everything and then the works were disassembled. It can be difficult to get the outer bearing and the tab washer off – I used a magnet that worked quite well.

I then put the inner bearings, the spacer and selected shims on the axle. Starting with the thickest one .030, then .010, .050, .030, ( one of each ). I then put the hub extension on the axle followed by the outer bearing, tab washer and nut. I tightened to 40 lbs of torque and determined if one of the castle nut slots lined up with the hole in the axle for the split pin. Need to take care that the shims are all the way up on the shoulder of the spindle axle so that they do not get mangled when the nut is tightened. The final proper adjustment is correct when you can tighten on the nut and the wheel does not show any reduction in ease of turning with no play. 

If it drags when you tighten the castle nut, then you need to add shims. If it is to loose, you need to remove the shims, When it is correct, re-tighten to the correct specs. At this point, the hub should be turning freely, with no end float and no pre-load.

Once you are satisfied that you have the bearings set up correctly, then remove everything. Make sure you keep track of the shims! Now pack the wheel bearings with wheel bearing grease and install your front seal (don’t forget this step). You need to place the spacer in the hub extension and bearings in first, and then reassemble unit.

Place the split pin through the hole in the spindle axle, and then pull one tab of the pin forward and bend it back over the axle end. Then push the grease cap on to the axle ( do not fill it with grease). Reinstall brake caliper.

Front Suspension Installed

Front suspension installed 2

 

Chapter 17 – Cleaning and Trial Fitting

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February 13 , 2004

Rear Disc Brake Conversion 

Decided to convert to disc brakes in the rear of the car and purchased the kit from Cape International. The kit consisted of two machined caliper mounting brackets, two Jaguar calipers including handbrake calipers, linkage for the handbrake, two disc rotors, templates for modifying the axle flanges and mounting hardware. The instructions provided assume the axle is on the car, but it appeared that the kit would be easier to install if the axle was removed from the car. I hope that the assembly can be inserted into the car from the right side once complete.  

First modified the axle flanges using a dremel tool. The templates were used as a guide to mark the axle for cutting. The axle was repainted following the cutting. The caliper mounting brackets (not handed) were mounted to the axle flange using four 3/8” UNF bolts and nylock nuts.

rear caliper bracket 1

rear hub removal

rear hub spacer,washer,nut

rear hub bearings

New rear bearings, and seals were pressed into the hubs. The bearing should protrude .001 to .004 from the surface of the hub after the outside washer and “O” ring seal are installed. Care must be taken to not drive the hub onto the axle too far or the bearing will be pushed too high. The tab washer and hub nut were then installed and tightened. The tab washer will not be bent down over the nut until absolute final assembly. The paper gasket was not affixed at this time since the half shafts will need to be pulled later for the installation of the differential. The half shafts were inserted and fastened to the hubs with one flat head tapered screw with a pozidrive head.

The new disc rotors were then attached with new hub extensions for the wire wheels. Care should be taken to put the proper hub extension on each side. Ten new conical lug nuts were provided in the kit. The calipers were then slotted over the disc rotors. 

The first flaw in the Cape International kit was discovered at this point. The inside of the caliper rubbed against the rotor preventing free turning of the disc. A grinder was used to remove some material so prevent rubbing. It was then discovered that the outside of the disc also contacted the adjusting screw on handbrake caliper. The grinder was called to action again. Once these modifications were made, the caliper slotted over the caliper and mounted easily, aligning precisely over the mounting holes on the provided mounting brackets. Two 7/16”  UNF bolts were used for each caliper mounting. The bolt heads are drilled so that they may be “wired” to prevent loosening.

The calipers were painted Eastwood Silver wheel spray with a clear coat. The caliper units had a bronze anodized finish as delivered.

The second flaw in the kit was the lack of inclusion of the short brake lined used to connect the two sides of the same caliper. An email to Steve Norton resulted in the pipes being shipped right away. Once received the pipes were bent and installed without difficulty. The two brake pipes running along the axle were rebent to work with the new calipers.

rear caliper brake line

The third flaw was the discovery that the short rod provided for the link between the handbrake caliper on the right side of the car and the rotating handbrake lever did not come close to fitting. This is when I discovered quite by accident a web site created by Ed Driver in Canada. His web site contained a detailed explanation with photos of his installation of the Cape International disc conversion. He had run into the same difficulties and had fabricated a new short rod after receiving little satisfaction from Cape. He graciously sent me a photo and scale drawing of his new rod to use as a template for my application. Lifesaver!!

handbrake link rods 1

Disc Brake Custom Handbrake Connecting Rod

rear brake hub assembly

Handbrake caliper pad 4

March 24 , 2004

Return to Front Suspension Assembly

Shock Rebound – Installed the front shock rebound bushing on the shock tower.

Front Shock Rebound buffer

Caliper Brake Lines – Installed new stainless steel brake lines to the front calipers ordered from Cape International.

Stainless Brake hoses

Fresh Air Intake Clip – Installed the clip for the air hose to the front wheel arch.

Air hose wheelwell clip

Fuel Tank Straps – Installed the two fuel tanks strap brackets to the rear boot panel. Each bracket has a backing plate on the other side of the boot panel. Note that the bracket curve Is on the top of the bracket.

Fuel tank strap bracket 4

Fuel tank strap bracket 3

Fuel tank strap bracket 2

March 24 , 2004

Cooling 

Cooling Recovery Tank – Began the installation of the radiator expansion tank from Cape International. However, I decided to wait to determine the final location until after the motor is installed. I don’t want to inhibit access to distributor or oil filter.

Coolant Recovery Tank with custom Bracket

Brakes 

Brake Fluid Reservoir – Installed new brake fluid reservoir and will need to put thread sealer on fittings for final assembly.

Brake reservoir clip 2

Brake Reservoir Mounted

April 17 , 2004

Handbrake Restoration 

I decided to restore the original handbrake rather than purchasing a new one. This will require rechroming several pieces. Removed small split pin securing the rod to the lever. Then removed the small split pin and washer from the lever holding the pawl.

Handbrake Assembly 1

Handbrake Pawl split pin

Disconnected the rod from the pawl and lifted the pawl off. Removed bracket with a hole and a rectangular opening for a key by heating with a torch and knocking out the piece. (Note orientation for reassembly). Hammered ratchet plate off of the mounting shaft to handle. There is a thin shim washer on the handle post before the ratchet plate is inserted on the shaft. The handle, pawl and ratchet plate will be chromed. The bracket and two spacers were painted black.

Handbrake connecting plate

Handbrake Assembly 1 2

Handbrake Assembly 2

Chapter 16 – Cleaning and Trial Fitting

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November 16, 2003

Front Suspension 

Control Arms and Bushings – Installed left and right lower control arms with rubber bushings and fulcrum pins.

Left control arm 3

Right Control Arm 2

left control arm 1

Left control arm 2

December 14, 2003

Steering

Steering Box and Idler – Picked up the painted steering box and steering idler from Jeremy Turner. Jack Harper disassembled the units and reassembled following painting. Jeremy did a great job on the steering wheel shaft as it was pitted near the box. Installed the Box and idler. Note for future – install box and idler before front brake hose bracket, as the bolts/nuts get in the way.

Steering Box Installed

Steering Box In Place – Fill Plug & Adjuster

Steering Idler in Place

Steering Idler Installed with Aluminum Spacer

Steering Column with Brace

January 10, 2004

Blistein Tube Shock Conversion 

Rear Tube Shock Conversion

Installed Udo Putzke’s Blistein tube shock conversion kit in the rear suspension. Two fabricated brackets on each side of the rear of the car. Original lever shock is abandoned completely in the process. Couldn’t complete the final connections because when the leaf springs were jacked up to align the shock for fastening, the entire car raised since the engine is not in the car, thereby giving it sufficient weight. Will have to complete later in the assembly process. Rear tube shock is F4-BE3-2577-HO. The brackets will need to be painted for final assembly. They should be installed prior to the fuel pump.

Tube shocks rear 4

Tube shocks rear 6

Tube shocks rear 2

Front Tube Shock Conversion

Installed Udo Putzke’s Blistein tube shock conversion kit in the front suspension. Two fabricated brackets on each side of the front of the car. Original lever shock is utilized in the process. To make sure the lever shocks would not leak fluid in the future, they were rebuilt by World Wide Imports in Madison, Wisc. The valves are removed from each damper. The standard bolts are used to secure the damper nearest the motor. Supplied long bolts and support rods are used for the outside two mounts. Front tube shock is F4-BE3-2576-HO. The brackets will need to be painted for final assembly. 

lever shock valving

front tube shock conversion 2

front tube shock conversion 1

Aluminum Radiator  – Installed a new aluminum radiator from Cape International. Christmas gift from Jude. It is a piece of art, almost hate to put it in the car! Fit was perfect, although mounting fittings were metric. Easy installation is to loosen lower brackets on frame, secure top two bolts first, then secure lower bolts to radiator. Finally, tighten lower brackets to frame. Pull unit to front of car when tightening to get maximum clearance for fan.

Aluminum Radiator 3

Aluminum Radiator 2

Aluminum Radiator 1

Aluminum Radiator 4

Chapter 15 – Cleaning and Trial Fitting

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September 27, 2003

Front Suspension 

It is so nice to begin assembling clean and freshly painted components. I decided to assemble the front suspension just to make sure I had all pieces, proper bolts and etc. Rebuilt brake calipers and swivel pins from Bruce at Healey Surgeons. Primed or painted bits courtesy of Jeremy at Maple Hill Restorations.

Left front suspension

Left front brake fittings

October 12, 2003

Fuel Pump and Other Bits

Fuel Pump – Installed new solid state SU fuel pump. Added ground wire was mounted to rear bulkhead. 

Fuel pump wiring

Fuel Pump – New

Rear bump box wiring & Clip

Starter Solenoid – Installed new starter solenoid. Affixed new light relay box.

Starter Solenoid – New

Flasher Relay – New

Bonnet Rod – Installed bonnet rod, spring and attachments.

Bonnet Rod New

Bonnet Rod Attached to Lever

Ground Strap – Fastened electric ground strap in boot.

Boot Ground Strap

Voltage Box

A1 – Brown/Blue Wire to Light Switch on Dash

A – Two Brown Wires. One to the A1 terminal on the fuse box; One to the starter solenoid to the terminal with the battery connection.

F – Yellow/green Wire to the F terminal on the generator (alternator)

D – Two Yellow Wires. One to the no charge warning light: One to the D terminal on the generator (alternator)

E – Black Wire to Ground

Rear Axle Assembly – Brake lines, fittings and differential added to the axle.

Rear Axle Brake line 1

 

Rear Axle Brake line 2

Rear Axle Brake line and differential

Rear Leaf Springs – Installed left and right rear springs. Used rotiserrie brace and scissor jack to lift spring. Lined up and inserted front pin which was not easy to accomplish.

Rear Spring Install 1

Rear Spring Install 2

Rear Spring Install 3

Rear Spring Install 4

Rear Axle Rebound Pad

Rear Axle Install 2

Rear axle U Bolts 1

Rear Axle Installed 2

Blanking Plates – Installed all blanking plates and felts.

Master Cylinders – Installed brake and clutch master cylinders. Getting the pins into the pedal brackets is not easy! 

Master Cylinders

Chapter 14 – Cleaning and Trial Fitting

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August 26, 2003

Wiring 

Wiring Harness – Received the new wiring harness from British Wiring Inc. We ordered the main harness, horn wiring that we probably won’t need, light pigtails and the stator tube wiring. Everything looked good. Also ordered a special pliers for pushing the wiring bullet connectors into the rubber joints which will prove to be a real time saver.

After taking the harness through the firewall, the major components were separated to go down the two sides of the car. 

Flasher – First connected the three wires to the flasher – green, light green, and green/brown. 

Wiper Harness – Then connected the wiper harness with connectors and fed it through the firewall – black, black/green, and green. 

Dimmer Switch – The wires for the dimmer switch were then connected and fed through the top of the footbox and connected to the switch – blue/red, light blue, and blue/white.

Fuse Panel – Wiring was then connected from the harness to the fuse box. Three white wires to the lower left terminal; one heavy brown wire to the top left terminal; two brown/green wires to the upper right terminal; and five green wires to the lower right terminals.

Throttle Switch – The white and white/purple wires intended for the throttle switch will not be used so rubber connectors were placed on the ends to avoid contact with metal. The wires were tucked below the fuse box.

Boot Harness Extension – Six wires were then connected from the firewall harness to the harness that goes to the fuel pump and boot for the lights. The harness runs down the footbox insulation panel with two clips. The harness was clipped to the master cylinder box and then taken through the welded clip on the wheel well. 

Flasher Relay Box – Wires on the left side will then be connected to the flasher relay box including a black ground wire at the base of the box. 

Lights and Horns – The wires were routed to the front of the superstructure for the lights and the horns.

Voltage Regulator Box and Brake Light Switch – The harness was also routed down the right side, by the voltage box and down the right side to the brake light switch.

Wiring 3

Wiring 1

Wiring Fuse Block 2

Wiring 6

Wiring 8

Wiring 9

Wiring 12

September 9, 2003

Heater Vent Doors – Installed the left and right heater outlet vent door assemblies.

Air Vents 1

Air Vents 2

Bump Boxes – Installed painted bump boxes. Secured threaded horn mounting plates.

Bump Box Painted 1

Steering column bracket tapped plate

Parcel Tray and Fascia Brackets – Installed parcel tray support bracket and fascia support brace.

Parcel Tray Brace

Fascia Brace

Steering Column Steady Bracket – Installed steering column steady bracket, but unclear about which windscreen post hole it should mount to – will check it out later.

Steering support Brace

Steering Column Steady Bracket 2

Bonnet Prop Rod  and Brake Reservoir Brackets – Installed bonnet prop rod bracket, pivot, and the brake reservoir mounting bracket.

Brake Reservoir Bracket

Bonnet Rod Bracket

Bonnet safety catch and prop rod bracket

Bonnet Latch Bracket and Release Mechanism – Assembled and installed the bonnet latch/release mechanism.

Bonnet Catch painted 4

Bonnet Catch painted 3

Bonnet Catch painted 2

September 13, 2003

Wiring Continued

Battery Cable – Installed the battery cable ordered from British Car Specialists. The cable set was expensive, but of high quality. Installed rubber grommets in boot kick panel wall. Clip 1 was attached to the right bump box (Should install the cable on the box before it is mounted on the body.) Clip 2 was attached to the kick panel above the shock mounting bracket. The cable was then routed inside of the right frame rail.

Battery Cable 2

Battery Cable 1

Battery Cable 3

Battery Cable 4

Clip 3 and clip 4 were located at the back of the cruciform. Clip 5 was located at the front of the cruciform near the gearbox mounting bracket. Clip 6 was located on the frame rail about 6” from the ground cable mounting. Clip 7 was mounted on the right footbox wall with the cable directed to the right terminal of the starter solenoid. The Cable from the starter to the left terminal on the solenoid was then secured. The white/red stripe wire fastened to the small terminal on the solenoid. Three “cert” nuts need to be installed – two for the solenoid and one for the clip on the footbox.

Battery Cable 5

Battery Cable 6

Battery Cable 8

Battery Cable 9

Next, the rear lights harness was installed. Clip 1 was secured at the right upper fuel pump bracket. Clip 2 was secured on the kick panel to the left of the pump. Clip 3 was attached to the left bump box and the wiring was threaded through the boot wall. The green wire will connect to the fuel gauge sending unit. Metal tabs were fabricated from clips and mounted on the floorboard of the boot.

Single bullet connectors were used to join the main harness to the rear light harness and link the white/black wire, and the white/purple wire. The red wires were connected using a double rubber connector. Clips 3 and 4 were mounted to the rear rail. The long separate white/black wire was also routed through and it connected to the single screw terminal on the battery on/off switch. Black ground wires were connected to the screw on each clip.

Boot Wiring 1

Boot Wiring 2

Boot Wiring 3

Boot Wiring 6

Boot Wiring 4

Boot Wiring 5