Cruise Control

Installing the Audiovox CCS-100 Cruise Control in a 1960 BT7

April, 2008 

I decided to install a cruise control system in my car near the end of a complete restoration. The engine was in place, but the front shroud, wings and doors were yet to be installed. It seemed like the perfect time to add cruise control. Having seen the Audiovox unit installed in several cars at some recent Conclaves and Encounters, I knew it was the one for me simply because I love my modifications to be discreet when possible (my car has many “personalizations”). The Audiovox control module fits inside the gearbox cover chrome ash tray, and can be completely concealed. Knowing that other Healey owners had reported that the Audiovox unit performed in a satisfactory manner, I placed my order from J. C. Whitney and started thinking about how I would install it on my car.

My car has been converted to negative ground.

I have prepared this “tutorial” to try to be of help to those who might be interested in adding cruise to their Healeys, but a word of caution is appropriate. My notes are no substitute for the very comprehensive instructions provided in the kit, especially when it comes to the wiring. As I mentioned, my car has a number of modifications and that means that your experience may well be different than my own.

First, I want to thank a few people who provided responses to my enquiries concerning the addition of cruise control. Alan Teague and Carl Brown were both particularly helpful, as were Len Hartnet and Bob Slater. Al Malin shared some images of installations he had seen at the Vermont 2007 Conclave. They are included below; however, I am afraid I don’t know the owners of the cars so I cannot give proper attribution. The October 2002 issue of Healey Marque contains an article entitled Healey Cruise Control, by Dick Lunney and John Jones that I also found of great assistance. I definitely recommend reviewing the article before you undertake adding cruise control. Dick installed the cruise on his BN2 and John on his BN7. Everyone I consulted used the Audiovox system with the exception of Bob Slater, although I do not know what brand he used. All of my commentary is in reference to the Audiovox CCS-100 only.

Audiovox Cruise Control Image 1

Audiovox Cruise Control Image 1

As one will quickly deduct from a preliminary review of the instructions, this unit is designed for a multitude of vehicles, but as you might guess Austin Healeys are not listed in the various brands and models of cars identified in the packaging. Because of the somewhat universal application, the kit comes with quite an array of fittings, brackets and linkages that are of no use with our car and they can therefore be set aside.

The primary components of the system are: 1. The vacuum canister and vacuum connection; 2. The magnet and sensor for the propshaft; 3. The throttle linkage; 4. The control module; and 5. The wiring of the system.

I will attempt to describe each.

I began my installation with the magnet and sensor for the propshaft. This necessitates the removal of the gearbox cover. I aligned the magnet and the sensor with the propshaft in the car, but after locating both components, I actually found that I could do a much better job of wiring the magnet in place with the provided safety wire if the propshaft was on my workbench. The Healey requires the use of only one magnet (two are supplied).

Cruise control Propshaft Image 2

Cruise Control Propshaft Image 2

It is installed with a double-sided sticky foam pad on the propshaft. My propshaft was new and freshly painted. If yours is not, you will need to clean it with sandpaper, brush and solvent.

Safety Wire Twister Tool Image 3

Safety Wire Twister Tool Image 3

If you want to do a nice job, I highly recommend using safety wire twisting pliers. They make the job much easier and result in higher quality work. I got my pliers from Aircraft Spruce, but I am sure they are readily available from other suppliers as well.

Cruise control Propshaft Image 4

Cruise Control Propshaft Image 4

Cruise control Propshaft Image 5

Cruise control Propshaft Image 5

Note that when you secure the magnet to the shaft that you have the two “ears” in the proper position to be wired in place. The wire “snaps” into the ears and you can hear it “click.” Pulling the wire apart at the joint helps to tighten the assembly on the propshaft, and really does function much better than I ever would have suspected. You may have noticed I am using a propshaft yoke for a Toyota gearbox as I have installed the Smitty 5 speed conversion in my BT7.

Cruise Control Propshaft Image 6

Cruise Control Propshaft Image 6

Your installation may be different, but in my case I was able to simply drill a hole into the side of the gearbox tunnel and fasten the magnet sensor with the nut and washer provided.  Depending upon your situation you may need to use one of the brackets provided in the kit for the sensor. The sensor must be pointed directly at the center-line of the propshaft with a 3/8” gap between the sensor and the magnet.

Cruise Control Propshaft Image 7

Cruise Control Propshaft Image 7

Cruise Control Propshaft Image 8

Cruise Control Propshaft Image 8

Cruise Control Module or Panel

My next step was to install the cruise control module or panel in the ash tray. You may elect to place it on your dash fascia, console or a custom panel. The routing of the wiring needs to be considered in determining the best location for you and your car. I decided that I wanted to run all of the wiring associated with cruise control under the gearbox cover and the gearbox extension. Others have simply run the wiring under the carpet.

I drilled a ½” hole in the center of the bottom of the ash tray and in the ash tray bracket that is part of the gearbox cover. I carefully smoothed the edges of both holes with a file. You will note that my ash tray is mounted backwards and the bracket has a couple of extra holes (that is a long story, unrelated to the cruise control installation). The control module can then be inserted into the ash tray with the wiring connected to the module pulled through the two holes.

Modified Ash Tray for Cruise Image 9

Modified Ash Tray for Cruise Image 9

Modified AshTray for Cruise Image 10

Modified AshTray for Cruise Image 10

You will need to form some type of spacer to sit in the ash tray below the control module otherwise it will “float” in the space. Styrofoam, or a small block of wood will work. The module has a two-sided sticky adhesive pad on its rear side for location on a flat panel. The size of the module does make for a very neat installation. My BT7 installation ended up looking like this:

Cruise Control Panel Installation Image 11

Cruise Control Panel Installation Image 11

Alan Teague’s BJ8 Console install:

Alan Teague's BJ8 Console Install Image 12

Alan Teague’s BJ8 Console Install Image 12

Herb and Bonnie Chrestie’s Dash Fascia Install:

Herb and Bonnie Chrestie's Dash Fascia Install Image 13

Herb and Bonnie Chrestie’s Dash Fascia Install Image 13

Programming and Installing the Servo Canister

This is the next task. On the back of the vacuum canister there is a small plastic cover that is removed to reveal seven dip switches. The instructions provide more detail on the dip switch settings, but for the six cylinder Big Healey three switches are set to the “on” position and four are set to the “off” position.

Servo Switch Image 14

Servo Switch Image 14

Those that are set to the “on” position are numbers 1, 3 and 7. For all manual transmission cars, the small black jumper connector located on the left side of dip switch #1 is removed. The 10-pin plastic wiring harness connector is then plugged into (snapped) place on the dip switch panel, and the wires are folded back. The plastic cover is then replaced with two small self-tapping screws.

Servo Switch Image 15

Servo Switch Image 15

Servo Switch Image 16

Servo Switch Image 16

Locating the Vacuum Canister

Locating the canister in the vehicle was the most challenging part of the project for me. As I mentioned previously, I have a number of modifications on my car that meant places that were used by others who have installed this unit were not available to me because something was already located in the spot where the canister might go.

Vacuum Unit Install Image 17

Vacuum Unit Install Image 17

Al Malin took the photo to the above at the Vermont Conclave that shows the canister mounted to the right firewall brace. That didn’t work for me because I already had placed a radiator overflow tank there. This location might work for you, but then again you might wish to make the canister less visible.

Vacuum Unit Install Image 18

Vacuum Unit Install Image 18

Several people have reported mounting the canister on the fresh air box beside the steering column. Carl Brown and Alan Teague selected that location. It might also be mounted below the left wing, but you cannot get too low due to heat from the exhaust.

Alan Hendrix of Hendrix Wire Wheel installed the cruise control on Devin William’s car. He chose to mount the canister along the LH frame rail and then routed the cable up into the engine bay. In my case I wanted the canister hidden as much as possible (of course, this means it will be harder to get to if you need to access the canister again!), and I was somewhat restricted as I have mentioned. I ended up removing the curved metal bracket on the canister and used plastic ties to mount the canister to the dash fascia brace to the right of the steering column.

Vacuum Unit Install Image 19

Vacuum Unit Install Image 19

This was easy for me since the front shroud was not on the car at the time, but I could still get to it from under the dash if needed. Pardon the wiring mess in the image above, I had not yet “cleaned-up” the wiring when I took the photo.

Vacuum Unit Install Image 20

My BT7 Vacuum Unit Install Image 20

In the end, inside the engine bay, inside the cockpit, or along the frame is a matter of personal preference. The instructions emphatically state not to mount the vacuum canister on the engine itself. Each has its advantages and disadvantages. Inside the cockpit means it is probably easier to hide the 10-pin connector and the wiring harness, but it also means that you must route the throttle control cable and the vacuum line from the canister through grommets on the firewall. Inside the cockpit the canister is more easily hidden, but you also can hear the unit working (not objectionable levels to me) since you don’t benefit from getting the unit on the other side of the firewall. You just need to experiment. Let me know if you come up with another location and send me an image and I will include it in this little write-up!

Once the location of the canister is determined, the vacuum line needs to be installed. In their Healey Marque article, Dick Lunney and John Jones described using copper tubing for the vacuum line rather than the rubber hose included in the kit. Whatever you choose to use, the tubing or hose needs to get connected to the intake manifold. Depending upon what you have connected to the manifold already (brake servo, pcv valve and etc.) will determine whether you can use a fitting already available on the manifold, whether you will us a “T” splitter provided in the kit, to take advantage of a vacuum line already in place, or whether you might even drill and tap another hole in the manifold for a fitting as Dick and John did.

In my case, I am using the small original fitting on the manifold for a pcv valve, the vacuum line to the distributor is routed from the rear carb (I am using HD8 BJ8 carbs on my BT7), so that left the original large blanking plug (7/8” I believe) on the manifold to be used. I drilled a hole through the center of the plug. Tapped it, installed a radiator drain valve I had laying around, soldered the fitting to seal it and presto I had a nice little connector for my cruise control canister. I used what I had, I am sure you can come up with something that will work equally well! These are images of the fitting and the installation of the hose:

Homemade Vacuum Fitting

Homemade Vacuum Fitting Image 21

Cruise Control Vacuum Fitting Image 22

Cruise Control Vacuum Fitting Image 22

By the way, the stainless cable in the right photo is my throttle cable routed from the accelerator pedal lever – not to be confused with the throttle cable for the cruise control assembly.

So far we have installed the magnet and sensor, the cruise control control module and the vacuum canister with its vacuum line. It is now time to turn to the wiring for the cruise mechanism.

 

Cruise Control Wiring

Caution: Follow the wiring instructions included with the cruise control kit! I have simply provided a guide that reflects how I wired my car, but remember yours may be different. My car has been converted to negative ground.

Turn “off” the battery switch in the boot or disconnect the battery before undertaking the wiring to avoid the potential of unpleasant results!

There are a number of wires to connect for the cruise control, but the task is really fairly easy. As typical of most Healey projects, patience is required. I will proceed with the wiring by source location and color. Before actually connecting any wires, I advise figuring out what your routing will be. The harness has a generous length of wire, but you do need to figure out the path of each.

The BT7 gearbox cover is in two parts, the cover itself and the gearbox cover extension between the cover and the firewall. The speedometer cable is routed between the firewall and the cover extension. I decided to run most of my wiring immediately next to the speedometer cable, behind the gearbox extension and to route the wires along the gearbox. In this manner, the wiring is hidden from view. The down side is to access the wiring you must remove the gearbox cover or approach the wiring from under the vehicle. Others have routed the wiring under the carpet. Of course, if you mount the cruise control module on the dash then you will have an entirely different wiring plan. Therefore, again, you will need to map out your wiring plan in advance.

This is an image of the wiring once connected as routed on my car. I left the wiring loose for the photo so the various color wires could be seen. I then encased the wiring in a black plastic tube (provided in kit) to give a neater installation. Remember, I am using a Toyota 5-speed gearbox.

Cruise Wiring Along Gearbox Image 23

Cruise Wiring Along Gearbox Image 23

  1. Black wire with eyelet terminal from vacuum canister to an earth (ground) point. I used a screw and nut on the interior side of the firewall.
  2. Blue wire to the negative terminal on the coil. For me, this was a fairly long run and I routed the wire through the clips on the firewall brace that hold the original wiring harness wires to the brake switch and the ignition.
  3. Grey and black wires encased in heat shrink tubing are connected to the magnet sensor in the tunnel next to the propshaft. It doesn’t matter to which terminal the wires are connected.
  4. Purple wire to the brake light switch wire that is hot when the brake pedal is depressed. In my case, for the BT7 that is a green wire with a purple stripe. I use a Watson’s mechanical brake switch rather than the original hydraulic pressure switch, so my wiring actually connected close to the fuse block on the firewall. My wires were routed through existing rubber grommets. Again, your wire routing will depend upon the model of your car and whether it is as original or modified.
  5. Red wire to the constant positive 12 volt battery source to the brake light switch. This is the wire that remains hot whether or not the brake pedal is depressed. In my case that is a solid light green wire.
  6. Orange fused wire with switch connector needs to be loaded with the brown, green and yellow wires from the main harness into the 4 pin connector. Both ends of the plastic connector are color coded to match the wires. Each wire should be pressed in until you hear an audible “click.” After the connectors are loaded then route your wires and press the pieces of the 4-pin connector together (the other side of the 4-pin connector originates with the cruise control module). In my case that was behind the gearbox extension and along the top of the gearbox. The orange wire needs to be connected to a source with positive 12 volts after the ignition switch is turned to “on.” Just as an aside, I later inserted a four-way bullet connector in the orange wire, after the in-line fuse, to allow for the addition of a grey wire to the gearbox “back-up” switch terminal so that I would have “switched” power to the reverse terminal. 
  7. Grey wire from control module to the light switch on the dash fascia. The terminal that is hot when the parking lights are turned “on.” This connection provides illumination for the control module.
  8. Black wire from the control module to an earth (ground) connection. In my case a screw on the side of the gearbox.
  9. Yellow wire from the control module is routed through the molex connector to the yellow wire to the servo. 
  10. Green wire from the control module is routed through the molex connector to the green wire to the servo.

Trouble shooting: The instruction booklet provides a test sequence for the wiring if for some reason your unit is not functioning as it should.

Throttle Control Linkage.

The final step is to determine where you will attach a new lever on the throttle shaft and then locate a bracket for the throttle control cable from the vacuum canister to the throttle linkage. Throughout my restoration I have avoided drilling any new holes in the car unless it was absolutely necessary. In all but just a few instances I have been able to work out a solution to mounting various components by taking advantage of screws or bolts already on the car. To do so with the cruise throttle control, I designed a bracket, that while a little complex for the purpose did allow me to use the two mounting bolts for the pedal box found on the top of the firewall diagonal brace. The images below show the bracket before and after painting. After painting it red it virtually disappears from view. I routed the cable from the vacuum canister through the firewall and mounted it to the fabricated bracket.

Cruise Control Bracket Image 23

Cruise Control Bracket Image 24

Cruise Control Bracket Image 25

Cruise Control Bracket Image 25

Cruise Control Bracket Image 26

Cruise Control Bracket Image 26

Cruise Control Bracket Image 27

Cruise Control Bracket Image 27

If the integrity of the original structure is less important to you, or if you are connecting the throttle cable in a different location on the throttle shaft (I used a lever on the very end of the shaft for the rear carb) then you can use one of the several brackets provided in the Audiovox kit or you can create your own as I did.

The kit directions indicate that there should be between 1 ½” and 2” total linkage travel. The servo throttle cable and the carb shaft lever are connected with a bead chain supplied in the kit along with couplers for each end of the chain. It is cut to the length required. A minimum of 5 beads should be used. In my case 10 beads were used. The number will of course vary depending upon the set-up in your car. The chain connection should provide for straight and free travel of the linkage when operated.

After the chain connection is made from the servo cable to the carb linkage, nothing remains of the assembly process other than taking the car out on the road and testing the system. I found the Audiovox cruise control to work quite satisfactorily. Perhaps not quite as smooth as the systems found on our vehicles today, but certainly functional and well worth the moderate expense.

Good luck with your installation. Just let me know if in your experience something could be made clearer in these instructions.

Click this link for a pdf file of the Audiovox Installation process: Installing the Audiovox CCS (low res)

Cheers and happy healeying!

 

Lin Rose

1960 BT7 “The Bloody Beast”

1959 AN5 Bugeye

[email protected]

 

Adding a Reverse Gear “Back-up” Light

I use a Toyota 5-speed gearbox in the Bloody Beast, but I have never taken advantage of the “back-up” light switch feature that is available on the transmission. Our Healeys did not have a “back-up” light. Steve Gerow discovered a LED light made for the job designed to be mounted on the lower holes of the license plate. So, thanks to you Steve! I have borrowed another one of your ideas. I could have used a number plate lamp from a Jaguar that incorporates a reverse light, but while period correct, the light would not have been nearly as bright and therefore noticeable, and that is the whole point.

LED “Back-up” Light

I visited my local Toyota dealer to see if I could locate a pigtail and plug for the reverse switch terminal located on the LH side of the gearbox, but had no luck there. I found some very small wiring terminal connectors on the internet and made up my own wires to fit the small spade connectors at the switch.

Wire Terminals for Toyota gearbox reverse switch

 

Wiring attached to the Toyota gearbox reverse switch

Wiring leads from Reverse Switch

The forward wire needs a switched power source and I decided to use the fused wire from the ignition switch to the cruise control conveniently located on the RH side of the gearbox. I simply used a four way bullet connector to “splice-in” in the grey wire to the reverse switch. I will never be using the cruise control while in reverse gear so no load issues, although the load requirement of the LED light strip is miniscule anyway.

Four Way Bullet Connector for switched power source

I used an 18 gauge green wire with an orange tracer (sourced from British Wiring) for the wiring from the grey lead to the LED light at the rear of the car. A disadvantage of adding electrical items post-restoration is that is not easy to add the necessary wiring without it being visually obvious. In this case it is either under the car or in the boot hidden by the armacord lining so not too bad.

Wiring Along Frame Rail

Up and over the Fuel Pump and Through the Boot Bulkhead

Wiring Through the Boot Bulkhead and under Armacord and out the Shroud Number Plate Wiring Grommet

The LED light red wire was connected to the green/orange wire for +12 volts and its black ground wire was connected by a self-tapping screw into the rear frame.

LED Reverse Light

Assorted Electrical Modifications

The Original Electrical System

 The electricals were a 12 volt positive ground Lucas system. The battery with an interrupt switch was located in the boot. The system consisted of the following: Fuel pump: SU AUA72 Voltage Regulator: Lucas Type 106/2 Single Fuse Box: Lucas Type FS6 with 50 and 35 amp fuses Electric Overdrive: Laycock de Normanville Two horns: Lucas Type HF1748 Dynamo: Lucas No. 22530 A or B

Modified Electrical System

Battery

I decided to go with a modern battery and replaced the original style with an Optima gel battery. Part Number: 34 (8002-002) RedTop®; Battery; Group 34; Cold Crank Amps 800; Crank Amps 1000; Reserve Capacity 110; Ampere Hour 50; Top Terminal; L-10 in.; W-6 7/8 in.; H-7 13/16 in.; UNBOXED.

Optima Battery

Optima Battery

Battery Master Switch

Numerous owners have reported failures with the original Lucas voltage interruption switch located in the boot. While these switches can be renewed, I decided to replace mine with a modern equivalent, sourced from Pegusus Racing.

Battery Master Switch

Battery Master Switch

Negative Ground and Alternator

I made many “personalizations” in the Bloody Beast that required modifications to the electrical system. To accommodate these changes, conversion to negative ground and exchanging an alternator for the original dynamo or generator were in order. Alternator Conversion Big HealeyAlternator conversion wiring instructions.

Conversion to Negative Ground

Conversion to Negative Ground

Alternator Mount Kit

Alternator Mount Kit

Delco Alternator

Delco Alternator

Supplementary Fuse Panel

To support the additional electronic functions I would be adding to my BT7 I thought it might prove helpful to add a supplementary fuse panel. The original electrical system was “under-engineered” when it came to protecting the electrical components and wiring. The unit I added was a “Painless” brand, available at most auto parts stores. It utilizes modern blade fuses. ACCY 1 Yellow Ignition Hot – Two speed heater; ACCY 2 Blue Ignition Hot – Amplifier; ACCY 3 Purple Constant Hot – Accessory power (cigar lighter) and the windscreen washer via a red wire. I mounted the panel below the dash fascia on the firewall interior. Accessory Fuse Block

Extra Fuse Block

Extra Fuse Block

Gear Reduction Starter

In the engine bay, in addition to replacing the dynamo with a modern alternator, I opted to go with a gear reduction starter. It is a little difficult to see in the image below. It is to the left of the oil filter. These are the installation instructions that came with the starter: Gear Reduction Starter.

Gear Reduction Starter

Gear Reduction Starter

Fuel Gauge Dampener

Healey owners know that the fuel gauge needle tend to bounce around making it difficult to get an accurate read on fuel level. Steve Gerow found an answer. A small device ordered from Zim’s Autotechnik, http://www.allzim.com/acatalog/Fuel_Gauge_Stabilizer.html a Porsche parts vendor, helps to steady down that needle, minimizing but not eliminating fluctuations. Thanks, Steve!

Fuel Gauge Stabilizer

Fuel Gauge Stabilizer

Remote Control Courtesy Lamps in Interior and Boot

I wanted to install courtesy lamps in the interior footwells and in the boot. However, I did not want to drill holes in the doors for typical courtesy lamp operation, so I decided to modify a remote security key fob to actuate my system. Upon clicking a button on the fob, the floor and boot lamps illuminate for 40 seconds and then extinguish. I also installed a toggle switch on a panel under the dash that permits continuous power to the lamps until switched off. To look “period,” the lamp I used in the boot is actually an original-type Lucas license plate lamp with the chrome metal shroud removed. The system works quite nicely. At night when I approach the car, I can simply hit the key fob button and Viola, I have interior lights!

Courtesy Light Wiring

Courtesy Light Wiring

RH Footwell Courtesy Lamp

LH Footwell Courtesy Lamp

Boot Lamp

Lucas SLR-570 -5″ Driving Lights

I like the looks of the 5″ driving light, while others will certainly prefer the 7″ option. I mounted mine with a combination tie down hook and lamp bracket sourced from Cape International. Wiring guidance was proved by an excellent article written by John Trifari. Details of the installation are provided in the restoration blog.

Lucas Driving Lights

Lucas Driving Lights

Rear Reflector Conversion to Halogen Lamps

Other Healey drivers recognizing that we have very little illumination in the rear of our cars discovered a neat conversion of the rear reflectors to additional lamps. I modified mine for the safety improvement. I don’t recall the source, but this is a “how to” article on the conversion as I did it. Reflector conversion. A more recent conversion using LED lights is referenced here: Conversion of Reflector to LED Again, details in the restoration blog.

Rear Modified Reflectors

Rear Modified Reflectors

Intermittent Wiper Control and Electric Washer Pump

Healeys have wipers that operate at one speed – slow! As original, they were not particularly effective. To address the problem, some Healey owners installed a later Lucas two-speed motor. I came upon an article by Ed Esslinger on a Sunbeam Tigers site who put together a kit to provide unlimited variable control of the speed of the Lucas wiper motor. I got in touch with Ed and purchased his kit and installed it in the Bloody Beast. I installed the control knob for the rheostat under the left hand corner of the dash fascia – hidden out of the way, but easily accessible. The kit can even be wired to accommodate most state laws that now require your lights to be on when the wipers are functioning! The lights come on automatically. On those misty days or when there is light snow the intermittent feature is really nice. This is the instruction sheet: Wiper Control and a wiring diagram:

Wiper Control Diagram

Wiper Control Diagram

Intermittent Wiper Kit

Intermittent Wiper Kit

Wiper Rheostat

Wiper Rheostat

Another suggestion I picked up from a web site was to convert the manual washer pump into an electric pump by placing a micro switch inside the little aluminum canister. I made this conversion, and then mounted a late model AH Sprite electric pump on the interior side of the firewall. One light touch activates the pump! I know, silly, cute and bordering on absurd,  but then was the time to do it! Outward appearance is completely stock. Here are the directions:  Rose Elect. Washer Pump Comp.

Washer Pump

Washer Pump

 Audible Turn Signal

I had installed a little Radio Shack “beeper” in the Bugeye because the run signals are not self-cancelling. Although the Big Healey control head or trafficator is self-cancelling, I thought I would go ahead and add it to the Bloody Beast as well. It is hidden on the fascia support bracket near the steering wheel shaft.

Turn Signal Buzzer

Turn Signal Buzzer

Toggle Switch Panel

I needed a few additional toggle switches, but did not want to add any to the dash as I wanted to keep it looking original. So I made up a little panel from a piece of aluminum angle, painted it red, and to avoid drilling any new mounting holes, I mounted it to two of the three legs of the wiper motor. The panel includes a warning light for when the driving lights are operational, a toggle for my redundant fuel pump (See Fuel System), and a toggle for the interior and boot courtesy lights.

Toggle Switch Panel

Sound System

Initially, my plan was to install an amplifier and “hidden” speakers to use with an iPod or iPhone. I was not interested in adding a radio to the mix. However, after reading about Roger “AUSMHLY’s”  installation of Creative self-powered computer speakers in his car, I decided to go that route instead. The system supports and iPod and does not include a radio. Similar speakers are now available from Creative that work wirelessly using Bluetooth technology. http://us.store.creative.com/Creative-T12-Bluetooth-Wireless-Speakers/M/B00408GUNY.htm The speakers are hidden under the dash. One above the parcel tray and the other to the left of the steering wheel.. The speakers sound great around town at lower speeds, but their output is overwhelmed by road noise at higher speeds. To help with improved output I added a sound booster “Boosteroo T794” from Upbeat Audio to my system. http://www.amazon.com/Upbeat-Audio-T794-Connection-Applications/dp/B000EES34W The Booster was well worth the small investment. For a discussion of sound systems and speaker placement, see this British Car Forum thread:

http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/topics/534047/10.

Creative Speakers

Creative Speakers

Boosteroo

Boosteroo

Cooling/Heater

Managing the heat generated by the operating engine, whether in the engine itself, in the engine bay, or in the interior is an issue in the Big Healey. What may not have been an issue in more temperate Great Britain, is a different story in the U.S. Over the years Healey owners have gotten progressively better at managing the heat issues. I made a number of enhancements to The Bloody Beast to help with cooling or at least improved insulation from the heat.

 The Original Cooling System

The capacity of the cooling system, excluding the heater, is 21.6 U.S. pints. The original thermostat was 158 degrees.

Cooling System Modifications

Aluminum Radiator

Recoring the original radiator with a more efficient tubing system is one option pursued by many enthusiasts, another is replacement of the original radiator with an aluminum alternative.  I chose the replacement route with an alloy radiator sourced from Cape International. In addition to the benefit of improved cooling, the polished aluminum header tank looks great in the engine bay! I painted the core with black radiator paint so that the “X” brace in the front of the car would “disappear” when looking through the grille.

Aluminum Radiator

Aluminum Radiator

Air-Intake Deflectors

The Healey has a multi-piece air-intake deflector assembly as original equipment; however, I was not happy with the gap that exists between the assembly shrouds and the radiator. This permitted air to escape around the radiator into the engine bay. The original deflectors are also a bit of a pain to install. I decided to fabricate some deflectors from aluminum stock. After constructing cardboard patterns I had the aluminum bent at a metal working shop. The deflectors are slotted to fit alongside the radiator in the standard radiator mounts to the frame. The image below shows the fitting of the deflectors before the radiator core was painted. As you can see this produced a tight fit around the radiator sides – no air escapes now!

Radiator Baffles

Radiator Baffles

Upper Radiator Shroud

My friend, Mick Nordquist, had an upper shroud made for his Healey radiator to keep the air coming through the grill directed to the radiator rather than escaping over the radiator. He supplied the pattern for me and I had one cut with a plasma cutter from 2mm aluminum plate and installed it with four stainless steel #8 self-tapping screws. In addition to improving cooling, I think it also offers a nice cosmetic improvement.

Radiator Top Shroud

Radiator Top Shroud

Coolant Recovery System

The original cooling system design provided for no ability to capture coolant whether just an expansion tank or a true pressurized recovery system. Healay owners, particularly if they have filled their radiators to maximum capacity are use to their car’s “burping” in the parking lot after being driven. I purchased my coolant recovery system components from Cape International.

Coolant Recovery System

Coolant Recovery System

Six Blade Stainless Steel Fan with Spacer

A number of alternatives to the original fan are available to the Healey owner today. The “Texas Cooler” and the variable pitch stainless steel fans are probably the most popular. I initially decided to go with the stainless fan available from British Car Specialists. However, the fan is pretty noisy so I switched the fan in 2020 for a nylon/plastic asymmetric fan similar to the “Texas Cooler” fan. The new fan was sourced from AH Spares. Time will tell but the new fan seems to keep the engine temperature under control and it is quite a bit quieter than the stainless steel fan.

Stainless Fan

Stainless Fan

AH Spares Fan

Fan Shroud

The custom air deflectors improved air control on the intake side of the radiator. To help channel the air on the fan side of the radiator and to add a safety component (those stainless fan blades are very sharp!!) I added a two piece shroud also available from British Car Specialists. It did not fit exactly as it would to the stock radiator, but a little tinkering and it fit beautifully. Since it was added after the restoration of the Bloody Beast was completed, I can say that the shroud was definitely responsible for some additional temperature reduction.

Radiator Shroud

Radiator Shroud

Radiator shroud

Radiator shroud

The Original Heater/Interior Cooling

The original heater was a Smith’s hot water circulating unit, part # 8G9048. It was assisted by a fan blower secured to the right front wheel arch assembly. Fresh air was supplied to the driver’s side of the interior by a 4” paper/metal hose controlled by a fresh air assembly mounted at the front of the car.

Heater/Interior Cooling Modifications

Sealing all of the holes in the firewall is the first thing to be done if one is to keep the heat and fumes out of the interior. A helpful tip someone shared with me was to wait until dark and put a light in the engine bay. This way any holes or leaks can be easily spotted from the interior.

Dynamat Extreme and Aluminum Duct Insualtion

A number of products are on the market to help reflect heat and offer both heat and sound insulation. Dynamat Extreme is certainly on of the most popular. I applied Dynamat Extreme heat reflective and sound insulation material to my interior first. I then applied aluminum duct insulation on top of the Dynamat and under the carpet. All seams were sealed with aluminum tape. These two together have proven to be very effective in keeping the heat out!

Dynamat Extreme

Dynamat Extreme

Aluminum Duct Insulation

Aluminum Duct Insulation

Modern Heater

For those (rare) occasions when I would choose to have more heat in the interior spaces, I chose to replace the Smith’s Heating unit with a contemporary unit supplied by Cape International. This unit has an internal two speed fan.

Cape International Heater

Cape International Heater

Fresh Air Supply

The original design of the car provided for some fresh air being delivered to the LH driver’s side of the car. Given that the Cape International Heater has its own fan, that left the original Smith’s blower to be used to blow fresh air into the passenger side of the car. I installed an air intake valve (upside down) just like the one on the LH side of the car, on the RH side, and then wired the blower to provide fresh air on the passenger side when desired. To be honest, I have found this to be useful for some ventilation when one has the hardtop in place, otherwise I am not sure that it was worth the effort! There are more details about this project in the restoration blog.

Ventilation Hose Assembly

Ventilation Hose Assembly

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Clutch/Gearbox and Propshaft Assorted Modifications

The system consists of the clutch, gearbox, overdrive, and propshaft. The original driveline system included the following:

Clutch: 10” Borg and Beck hydraulic

Gearbox: “side-shift” 4 speed

Overdrive: Laycock de Normanville electric

Propshaft: Hardy Spicer universal joints

Flywheel: 28 lb.

Driveline Modifications

Toyota 5 Speed Conversion

Although I always enjoyed the Laycock de Normanville electric overdrive in my car, I knew my tranny needed to be rebuilt. Rather than go that route, I took advantage of Smitty’s five speed conversion kit and installed a Toyota gearbox in the Bloody Beast. The Toyota Gearbox is quite a bit lighter and folks say that it runs  a bit cooler than the original box.

Gearbox and Bell Housing Installed

Gearbox and Bell Housing Installed

You can use a number of different Toyota gearboxes from the non-turbo Supras or from several of the 2 wheel drive pick-ups. I used a W57 1998 Toyota Tacoma 4×2 VIN# 4TANL42N2WZ094878. Details are available in the restoration blog, but this pdf document put together by Tracy Drummond is very helpful. Drummond Five speed gearbox conversion.

The kit includes several custom components including a bell housing casting unique to the conversion.

The kit is no longer available from Smitty, but Pete Delaney now handles the product. His contact information is as follows as of July 10, 2012:

Stephanie & Pete DelaneyHealey 5 Speed
P O Box 561
Harrisburg, NC 28075
704-455-2585704-455-8504 FAX
Healey5Speedaol.com

Clutch Conversion

Many who have the early 3000s and who complete the 5 speed conversion also adopt the BJ8 9/12″ diaphragm clutch. It is less demanding on the left leg muscles. I went ahead and made this conversion while I was at it. This also requires using a BJ8 flywheel. I obtained a 24lb. lightened flywheel from Bill Bolton.

BJ8 lightened Flywheel

BJ8 lightened Flywheel

Slave Cylinder Bleeder Pipe Extension

Anyone who has bled a Healey slave cylinder knows that the bleed nipple is not exactly easy to get to. Doug Reid aka “Mr. Finespanner,” fabricated an extension for me that makes the job much easier with the bleeder actually accessed from the engine bay. This has now become a popular item used by many aficionados.

Slave cylinder bleeder

Slave Cylinder Bleeder Extension

Slave cylinder bleeder extension

Slave Cylinder Bleeder Extension

Custom Propshaft

Installing the Toyota 5 Speed does require making up a new propshaft, which I had done at a local speed shop. The propshaft does need to be balanced prior to installation.

Propshaft

Propshaft

 

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Jule Enterprises Frame

The Original Chassis/Frame

The car’s chassis had been lengthened for the rear seats in the production of the 100 six BN4. Other than the change for disc brakes, there were no significant changes for the 3000. 100-6_3000 ChassisDesign.

Modified Chassis/Frame

Storage in damp surroundings plus over forty years of life left BT7 L4422 with substantial rust and corrosion. It was a difficult decision, but since I was building a “driver”, I decided to use Martin Jansen’s Jule Enterprises frame. My sons and I visited Martin’s shop just outside Toronto, Canada before making the final call. http://www.jule-enterprises.com/Martin is a great fellow with whom to work. He and Don Stewart substituted Martin’s new frame for mine and reinstalled the tub superstructure, including the replacement of several panels such as the floors in the interior and in the boot.

Martin Jansen's Frame Building

Martin Jansen’s Frame Building

Martin Jansen's Tub Reconstruction

Martin Jansen’s Tub Reconstruction

Martin Jansen's Tub Reconstruction

Martin Jansen’s Tub Reconstruction

The Jule frame uses 1/8″ wall by 3″ x 4″ steel rectangular tubing for the frame rails. The frame has a static bending strength 40 percent greater than the original, reducing frame deflection. Torsional strength of the Jule replacement is a 140 percent improvement over the original. The downside of the modern substitute is 80 additional pounds: 135 vs. 215 lbs. http://www.jule-enterprises.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/asurefoundation.pdf

Arrival Day: Marty, Scott, John, Lin

Arrival Day: Marty, Scott, John, Lin

The purists ( I don’t use that term in a disparaging way at all), will not like Marty’s frame, and the hobbyist may be confounded by finding the proper alignment of mounting holes in the frame or in replacement superstructure panels; but, it is hard to dispute the improvement in ride quality. My car is now rock solid, no creaks and twists, just great handling with a firm solid ride!

Front View Superstructure

Front View Superstructure – Before

After all of These Years

After all of These Years

Primed and Ready for Paint

Primed and Ready for Paint

Red Frame Curing

Red Frame Curing

Mounted to Move

Mounted to Move

Rear Tow/Tie Down Hooks

Tow/Tie-down Hook

Tow/Tie-down Hook




Rear Tow/Tie Down Hooks

I noticed on the Tom’s Import Toy Sales http://www.tomsimport.com/new/parts/parts.asp?sect=20&new=1 web site that he sells a nice replica of the factory tow hooks. They are made of high grade stainless steel and fasten to the car using the rear leaf spring bolt. I ordered a pair and was quite pleased with the quality. See images below:

Hook Installed

Hook Installed

Hook Installed

Brakes

The front drum brakes of the 100-Sixes were replaced by Girling 11” disc brakes on the 3000 in March 1959. Rear brakes were 11” Girling drums that were also controlled by a handbrake lever located on the right side of the gearbox tunnel

 Brake Modifications

The most significant modification I made to the braking of the 1960 MKI was the conversion of the rear drum brakes to disc brakes. This was accomplished with a kit based on Jaguar calipers coupled with mini-handbrake calipers sourced from Cape International. New rods to connect to the balance lever are supplied so that the handbrake functions as original. This is a pdf file of the instructions provided by Cape International.Cape Int Disc Brake Conversion 1

Rear Disc Brake

Rear Disc Brake

Handbrake Lever

Handbrake Lever

Aeroquip Braided Stainless Steel Hoses

Original-style rubber brakes hoses were replaced with stainless braided hoses also sourced from Cape International.

Stainless & Braided Brake Lines

Stainless & Braided Brake Lines

Drilled Front Brake Rotors

While standard rebuilt calipers were used in the front, the rotors were replaced with drilled rotors supplied by Cape International.

Drilled Front Rotors

Drilled Front Rotors

Speed Bleeders

I utilized the new technology for brake bleeders, Speed Bleeders. These bleeders have a small stainless ball in them that close off the release of brake fluid, making the process of brake bleeding much easier.

Speed Bleeders

Speed Bleeders

Recent production of the hydraulic brake switch has not produced a reliable switch. A remedy to the situation is to use a mechanical brake switch first developed by hot rodders. I sourced the switch I used from Watson’s Street Works. A description is provided in this Watsons mechanical brake switch.

Watson's Brake Switch

Watson’s Brake Switch

Watson's Brake Switch

Watson’s Brake Switch

 Brake Reservoir Canister Gasket

Other Healey restorers had noted that if overfilled, hydraulic fluid could slosh out of the vent hole in the reservoir cap and ruin the paint. Ever resourceful contributors to the British Car Forum discovered that a simple little gasket available in most auto parts stores fit perfectly in the reservoir cap, thereby solving the problem. I used one of the se “HELP” gaskets, #42072 in the Bloody Beast.

HELP Gasket

HELP Gasket

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Gas Strut Installation

 

Boot Lid Strut

Boot Lid Strut

My friend Steve Thomton has an on-line gas strut business. So, it was only natural that he should come up with the bracketing and appropriate strut to install a strut in the boot of a Healey. As always, Steve’s work is of the highest quality. The components in Steve’s kit are remarkably well made. At the time I am writing this, he sells his kit for $129.00 which I consider a bargain. The kit consists of four primary components: the boot lid bracket, the shroud bracket, the shroud brace, and the strut with appropriate mounting hardware. Steve furnished excellent written instructions making the installation straight forward. Everything was in place and operational in under an hour.

I love this additional “personalization” of  The Bloody Beast and would recommend it to everyone. It is so much more convenient than the folding rod as originally supplied.

This is a link to the instruction pdf: Trunk Gas Strut Install Instructions

These are the brackets fabricated by Steve:

Shroud Bracket

Shroud Bracket

Boot Lid Bracket with Collar Nuts

Boot Lid Bracket with Collar Nuts

Boot Lid Bracket

Boot Lid Bracket

These are the collar nuts and split washers used at the boot lid bracket:

Collared Nuts, Split Washers

Collared Nuts, Split Washers

These are installation images (the last one in Steve’s car ( I didn’t have the creativity to take a delayed shutter shot in the boot with the lid closed!)

Lower Brace

Lower Brace

Strut Installed at Boot Lid

Strut Installed in Boot Lid of Steve’s BJ7