Luggage/Parcel Shelf
This is a pdf file of the assembly plans for the luggage/parcel shelf, followed by several images of the assembly process:
Luggage/Parcel Shelf Image 1
Luggage/Parcel Shelf Image 2
Luggage/Parcel Shelf Image 3
Luggage/Parcel Shelf Image 4
Luggage/Parcel Shelf Image 5
Luggage/Parcel Shelf Image 6
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Cup Holder
You just can’t drive a car in the States that doesn’t have a cup holder. Somehow it would be un-American! I borrowed the idea from Roger Conte who installed one in his BJ8. You can’t hide it quite as well in a BT7, but with a few mounting modifications I added the same VW Jetta cup holder in the Bloody Beast.
An article about the installation of the cup holder in both cars was included in the October 2009 issue of the Healey Marque. A pdf of that article may be found here: Healey Marque Cup Holder Article Low Res
The following images may also provide some help to others who may be interested in doing the same:
Cup holder bracket Image 1
Cup Holder Bracket Image 2
JB Weld Aluminum Bracket Image 3
JB Weld Aluminum Bracket Image 4
Original Cup Holder Door Image 5
Vinyl Covered Cup Holder Door Image 6
Cup Holder Empty Image 7
Cup Holder in Action Image 8
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Creating a Functional Arm Rest for a BT7
A number of people have asked about the arm rest installed in The Bloody Beast, so I decided to write up a little summary of the build process.
I began with the standard upholstered arm rest pad sourced from Heritage Upholstery and Trim. However, the pad as original, is virtually useless as one would never “rest” their elbow on a pad mounted as low as an inch or so above the gearbox cover. I also thought, “well, if I am going to raise the height of the arm rest pad, then why not build a little storage into the new design?”
I first prepared a mock-up using a cardboard shoe box and some masking tape. The pad is wider at the front then in the back so the appropriate alteration needed to be made to the measurements of the cardboard model.
Arm Rest Prototype
My plan from the beginning was to cover the box with matching black carpet and hinge it at the rear of the pad. For me, 2 3/4” appeared to be the proper height of the box, with the cushion on top of the box. Each person fabricating a similar console might want to check the vertical measurement to arrive at a comfortable “at rest” position for them.
I don’t own any woodworking tools so I asked a carpenter friend to finish my box. We did a few trial and error fittings along the way. You really have to do this because the shape of the gearbox cover means that that the angled and curved cuts for the sides as well as the front and back are all different. Would you expect anything else with a Healey?
Arm Rest Dimensions
These are the dimensions of the box we ended up using. I made the box slightly shorter (3/8”)than the upholstered pad so that you would have a “lip” to grab hold of to lift the top away from the box. The box is glued together using Elmer’s Wood glue and it has held up just fine, although I am careful to not put too much weight (stress) on it as I enter and exit the car.
I used brass piano hinge for the rear of the box and a pressure clip cabinet catch for the front. I used the clip rather than a magnet to keep the top centered on the box.
Arm Rest Hinge & Clasp
Arm Rest
Arm Rest
Arm Rest
I cut an opening in the fabric on the bottom of the upholstered arm rest and slid the wood top of the box into the arm rest pad and stapled it in place.
Arm Rest Cover
Arm Rest
Arm Rest
I had ordered some extra black carpet from Heritage Upholstery and Trim and I used it to then cover the box. I used a little vinyl piping for the front edges where the carpet edges meet to give a finished appearance. Now I have something that looks almost as original, and it also is comfortably functional! The little box is great for gloves, tire pressure gauge, car registration and insurance cards and etc.
Arm Rest Installed
The Original Ignition System
Distributor: Lucas DM6A
Coil: Lucas HA 12 volt
Spark Plugs: Champion UN12Y
Modified Ignition System
Distributor
Having converted the Bugeye to electronic ignition with a Crane system, I knew that I wanted to use electronic ignition with the Bloody Beast, but unlike the Crane system, I wanted to use a system that would be housed in the distributor such as a Pertronix. After doing some research I decided to replace the entire distributor with a newly introduced Dutch product, the 123 Distributor. The United States distributer is https://123ignitionusa.com
More information about the installation is provided in this website post: https://valvechatter.com/?p=12431
One appealing aspect of the 123 is that the advance curve is determined by simply adjusting the settings by turning an adjustment on the outside of the distributor and “clicking” it into place. Sixteen curves are available from which to select. Since my purchase the vendor has introduced a programmable bluetooth distributor that can be managed with a laptop. The model number of the unit I used is 123/GB-6-R-V.
For initial set-up, I chose the recommended “B” setting. While the distributor is a “drop-in” in for the BJ8 with an electronic tach, a kit is supplied to adapt it for the mechanical tach drive of the BT7. The shaft did need to be drilled and the drive dog from the original Lucas unit installed with a few spacing washers. My unit was supplied by a German vendor Brits’N’Pieces.
123 Distributor
Coil
Rather than the original Lucas Coil, or Lucas Sports coil, I decided to go with the Pertronix Flame Thrower Coil in the Bloody Beast. The coil was originally mounted on top of the generator, but since I am using an alternator, that mounting position was not available. I mounted the coil on the vertical upright shroud support post.
Pertronix Flame Thrower Coil
Ignition Wiring
To complement the Pertronix Flame Thrower Coil, is used Pertronix ignition wiring as well.
Ignition wiring
cvcvbvcb
I am making this post to provide documentation for others on the subject of 1-2-3 electronic distributors and their installation in Big Healeys. There isn’t too much content regarding the 1-2-3 distributors on the Healey Forums, but I suspect that I am not the only one using this product from the Netherlands. I am not writing this to promote the product or even to encourage others to use it, although I have been very happy with my installation.
I have been using my 1-2-3 since about 2008 though I have never contributed much on the various Forums and bulletin boards about it. A programmable bluetooth unit allowing the owner to to test various advance curves using his/her laptop is now available. However, I purchased mine before that technology was on the market. You can check out their website (or at least the USA marketer) at https://123ignitionusa.com/6-cylinder-lucas-distributors/ for info on the unit I used – 123\GB-6-R-V, or for other models. The unit I purchased has 16 different advance curves. The owner is given parameters for each of the curves and you select the one you want by simply turning a small “click wheel” on the side of the distributor to your choice. In my case I am using the “B” profile.
Click here for the 1-2-3 Installation Instructions and for information regarding the sixteen advance curves.
Top Dead Center Whistle Tool
I like to begin the installation process by first getting the #1 cylinder piston at top dead center on the compression stroke. There are a number of ways to accomplish this, but in my case I used a whistle on a hose screwed into the spark plug location for the #1 cylinder.
This is a neat little tool! I removed all of the spark plugs and put the car in fourth gear. I then pulled the car forward. I prefer to pull rather than push because it is much easier to watch the pointer and pulley and to hear the whistle. I passed the point where the timing gear cover pointer and the pulley mark aligned with no whistle, and concluded that the piston was elevated but on the exhaust stroke. I continued to pull the car forward and slowly approached the intersection of the marks a second time. Sure enough, as the pulley mark began to near the pointer the whistle started making its noise. This lasts a little longer than one might think. I stopped when the pointer and the pulley mark aligned again (and the whistle stopped blowing) knowing that I had achieved top dead center on the compression stroke.
The 1-2-3 distributor is not set-up out of the packaging for earlier Healeys with tachometer drives. While the distributor is a “drop-in” in for the BJ8 with an electronic tach, a kit is supplied to adapt it for the mechanical tach drive of the BT7. The shaft did need to be drilled and the drive dog from the original Lucas unit installed with a few spacing washers.
1-2-3 Distributor Rotor Alignment
Note that with the shaft lined up identically, the Lucas DM6A rotor is in line with the slot at the bottom of the gear. (Thanks, Steve Gerow for the photo). While the 1-2-3 distributor is clocked 90 degrees out from the Lucas distributor.
Lucas DM6A Distributor
This means that unless one manipulates the distributor driving gear (AEC242) from its original “twenty-to-two” position, the rotor will not point in the 2 o’clock position to approximately the #1 cylinder spark plug when the first cylinder piston is at top dead center on the compression stroke. If you don’t mind that your #1 cylinder spark plug is fed by a lead wire from the distributor’s 5 o’clock terminal then you are ready to go. Simply begin the numbering sequence of 1-5-3-6-2-4 moving counterclockwise for your ignition wires.
1-2-3 5 o’clock Rotor Position
However, If you want your wiring scheme to look “normal,” this can be accomplished quite easily. Note that when you observe the tachometer spindle in the tachometer drive housing the slot in the shaft is not centered. It is offset with the smaller segment in the downward position.
Distributor Drive in the Block
The distributor drive gear is very easy to adjust. Remove the tachometer drive housing by loosening and removing three ¼-28 x ⅞” hex head bolts.
Tachometer Drive Housing Mounting Bolts
The oil feed banjo and the tachometer cable must be freed from the housing. Then slightly twist and lift away the housing. Then you can give it a fresh coat of paint while it is off the car!
Tachometer Drive Housing
The top of the distributor drive gear is then exposed in its “twenty-to-two” position.
Distributor Drive Gear
Using a 5/16”- 24 x 3 ½” bolt, screw the bolt in a few turns into the center of the drive gear.
Repositioning the Distributor Drive Gear with Bolt
Lift the bolt and the gear up slightly until you can turn the gear and move it to the “ten-to-five” position. It will drop down into position.
Distributor Drive Gear Repositioned to “Ten-to-Five”
Reassemble everything as it was removed.
If you happened to have turned the shaft in the housing, when you reinstall it make sure that the tachometer spindle is in the correct position with the smaller segment of the offset dog in the downward position. If it is in the wrong position you will find that the distributor will not seat properly. Reinstall the distributor base plate with two ¼”-28 x ½” hex bolts and the distributor.
Distributor Bse Plate and Mounting Bolts
With the #1 cylinder at top dead center on the compression stroke the 1-2-3 rotor should now be adjusted to be pointing to the #1 cylinder spark plug at approximately the 2 o’clock position.
Before placing the cap on the distributor, the 1-2-3 installation instructions state to rotate the distributor body until the distributor wires (black and red) and the vacuum port are in a convenient position for connections. Then connect the red wire to the + terminal on the coil. Leave the black wire disconnected.
To static time the 1-2-3, turn on the ignition and slowly rotate the body of the distributor and the rotor (to remove any free play) in a clockwise direction until a green LED lights. Then tighten the base plate holding the distributor. Connect the black wire from the distributor to the – terminal on the coil. Attach the ignition wire from the coil to the distributor.
Repositioned Rotor to 2 o’clock
Then install the distributor cap and the ignition wires beginning with the #1 cylinder wire to the distributor cap terminal at the 2 o’clock position (where the rotor is pointed), and then moving counterclockwise connect the other spark plug leads in the prescribed firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4. Attach the ignition cable from the coil to the distributor, and connect the vacuum hose to the distributor. The engine should now start and enable running to get the engine to operating temperature before final ignition timing.
To fine tune the ignition timing with a stroboscope timing light, disconnect the vacuum hose and plug it. Then set your timing in accordance with specifications – in my case, 15 degrees BTDC.
That should do it. I hope this will be helpful to a Healey owner trying a 1-2-3 distributor for the first time.
Fuel Pump and Fuel Lines
The Original Fuel System
The fuel system consists of the fuel tank, the fuel pump, the carburetters and the air cleaners. The original fuel system included the following: Fuel tank: 14.4 U.S. gallon steel tank Fuel pump: SU electric Carburetters: Twin 1 3/4” semi-downdraft HD6 Air Cleaners: Coopers “pancake” type.
Modified Fuel System
Aluminum Fuel Tank
I replaced the steel tank with an aluminum version sourced from Hemphill’s Healey Haven in Maryland.
Aluminum Fule Tank
Solid State SU Fuel Pump
I used the original mounting bracket, but replaced the pump with a solid state version of the original fuel pump. The pump was supplied by Burlen in the U.K.
Solid State Fuel Pump
Redundant Fuel Pump
I expected the solid state unit to perform better than the original with its “points,” but I still remember problems with the original pump while I was driving the car in college. I would give it a few good “whacks,” and it would start pumping again. I had read about installing a redundant pump either parallel or in-line to avoid dead fuel pump problems. I mounted the auxiliary pump on the rear boot wall and ran it in-line with the SU. The restoration blog explains the installation. I used a Master E8016S electric pump available from Autozone. I installed a toggle switch on a small switch panel under the wiper motor that controls the fuel pumps. At center, neither pump is activated (a great anti-theft device); a throw upward activates the SU pump, and a throw downward activates the Master Pump. The pumps can be switched on the fly.
Master Fuel Pump
Auxiliary Fuel Pump Installed
Toggle Switch Panel
Fuel Gauge Dampener
Every Healey owner experiences the erratic swings of the fuel gauge needle. Zims Autotechnik, www.allzim.com , 1804 Reliance Parkway, Bedford, TX 76021, 800-356-2964, sells a little electronic device (see image to the right) that mitigates the needle swing. I believe it was originally conceived for the Porsche 356. Steve Gerow shared this little tip. I ordered one, installed it in a few minutes and sure enough it works! $19.95 for the part. Fuel Gauge Dampener instructions.JPG are provided, but Steve’s photo tells the whole story!
Fuel Gauge Dampener
Carburetters
I replaced the original HD6 SU carbs with 2″ HD8s to boost HP a bit. I purchased these from someone on the Healey list and had them rebuilt by Joe Curto. I was pleased with his results. The older used units polished nicely. Using the HD8s did require switching to a later intake manifold from a BJ8 as well, to take advantage of the 2″ diameter carbs.
HD8 Carbs
Carburetter Choke
The choke mechanism for the BJ8 carbs is a dual line system as opposed to the single cable used with the original HD6 carbs. So, I ordered the HD8 choke bracket and cabling and installed it in the Bloody Beast.
Choke Firewall Bracket
Air Cleaners
In 2008 when I restored my car, I decided to replace the original pancake Cooper air cleaners and use the “itg” competition foam air cleaner available from Denis Welch. The air cleaner is a single unit working with both carburetors. For appearances, I painted the red plastic body of the air cleaner a gloss black.
However, recently, as part of my “ten-year renewal” process I have moved away from the ITG filter and now use twin ram pipes with individual trumpet filters. This change is explained in this post: https://valvechatter.com/?p=12574
ITG Air Cleaner
Aston Quick Release Fuel Filler Cap
I like the looks of the racing heritage Aston cap that also has its practical ease of use advantage. To install, it is necessary to cut off the original fuel filler pipe and solder a threaded ring onto the pipe. The cap then screws onto the collar. It gives a very nice finish to the fuel system!
Aston threaded collar
Aston Fuel Filler Cap
Throttle Cable Modification
The information below was originally posted in 2009 and modified in 2014. I have since updated how my throttle cable system works (2020) and information on the update is found in a post in my ten-year renewal blog. For example, I no longer us the Denis Welch intake manifold cable bracket. I decided to leave the entry below to provide the reader with history of the progression of this conversion process. This link will direct you to my latest post on the subject. https://valvechatter.com/?p=10123
Owning a Austin-Healey “Bugeye” Sprite always made me wonder about the somewhat arcane mechanical throttle linkage system in my BT7. The Bugeye has a very simple accelerator control system whereby the accelerator pedal and the carburetors are connected via a cable. This provides a direct and immediately responsive system assuming that the carburetor throttle shafts and components are in good condition. Having great respect for DMH and all that he did, I was hesitant to convert my Big Healey accelerator controls to a cable approach. I quizzed all of the Healey experts I could think of, and no one could give me a satisfactory explanation for the mechanical linkage. I suppose the most common response was “the linkage must have been around and used on other cars, so it was cheap to adopt.”
In 2005, my wife and I attended the Conclave held in Winston Salem, NC. There I saw John Trifari’s BN1 that had a throttle cable installation.
John Trifari Throttle Cable 1
John Trifari Throttle Cable 2
About that same time I was emailing back and forth with Jack Brashear a Healey owner from Arkansas who had also come up with a throttle cable approach to accelerator controls in his Healey. Jack did not modify anything at the accelerator pedal inside the interior, choosing instead to use a modified pedal shaft lever as shown in the image below. I will explain the lever modification a little later in this article. Both John and Jack used a little fitting that I believe came from an MGB through which the cable routes at the top of the driver’s footbox.
Jack Brashear Throttle Cable Install
Jack Brashear Throttle Cable Install
Also in 2005, I attended several of the races in the Australian/U.S. Healey Challenge series. Many of the Aussie’s cars had throttle cables instead of the mechanical linkage. Of course, the Australian cars are RH drive so the design is somewhat different (actually easier) than for LH drive cars. I noticed too that the Australian cars almost always incorporated some type of throttle stop mechanism. I suppose especially important in a race car.
Australian Racer with Throttle Cable and Throttle Stop
These examples and others that I came across about the same time convinced me that the use of a cable to control accelerator action to the carburetors was the approach that I wanted to take. However, everything that I had witnessed first hand was typically one-off, and custom designed, and I wondered if there was an easier route to my end game. I started checking vendors.
Cape International had a conversion kit http://www.cape-international.com/capeshop.php?parttypes=19&thepart=TC2# I actually tried this kit but wasn’t thrilled with it. I am sure it has been installed successfully in many cars, it just wasn’t my cup of tea.
Cape International Throttle Cable Kit
DMD from Australia also made a conversion kit. It is now available (as of August, 2014) from The Healey Factory. http://www.healeyfactory.com.au/dmd/components/ I did not personally try the DMD kit.
The Healey Factory DMD Throttle Cable Kit
I began to work on my own throttle cable kit using ideas I had seen on other cars or in the kits available from the vendors named. The narrative that follows chronicles my installation. It does not describe a right or wrong approach – it is just my approach. In fact, I am sure that others can improve upon my design. Comments and suggestions are certainly welcome.
Accelerator Pedal Swing Arm Lever
I decided to modify the throttle swing arm lever used on a BJ8 to suit my needs. I like this one better than the BT7 swing arm as it is a bit more substantial and in my view seemed a little less likely to slip on the pedal shaft once tightened. I have now used this arrangement since 2009 including an 8,000 mile cross-country trip without any problems. Jack Brashear suggested lengthening the arm so that it would swing perfectly in line with the firewall cable bracket and I followed his lead. I have headers on my car and a Toyota Supra Five-speed (not overdrive components on the firewall) so if the reader is planning a modification to the lever just make sure you have sufficient room. The following diagram illustrates the modification:
Throttle Swing Arm Lever Modification
Rose Throttle lever modified 1
Rose Throttle lever modified 2
Firewall Bracket
I then made an “L” shaped bracket to mount to the firewall. I used the welded nut on the firewall (see above) for one of the securing points and drilled a hole for a nut cert for the top securing point. My final bracket looks slightly different than this one, but this is the best image I have to illustrate the mounting of the bracket to the firewall – note that it mounts through the firewall insulation panel.
Rose Firewall Throttle Bracket Version 1 – Not Final
The image below is not from my car but it shows a bracket similar to mine mounted on the firewall. I apologize that I do not know who owns this car. I just snapped the image at a show.
Firewall Throttle Cable Bracket – Unknown Owner
The following image is of my car and shows the relationship between the swing arm lever and the firewall bracket with the cable.
Relationship of Swing Arm Lever to Firewall Bracket and Cable
Carburator/Manifold Bracket
I tried numerous approaches to fabricating a bracket to get the cable to the right place to control the carburetor throttle shaft lever. You must decide if you want the cable to run down from the firewall, below the carbs, and up to the carburetor throttle shaft lever, or alternatively, do you want the cable to run up and over the carbs and manifolds? With my approach I chose to have it do the latter. It can be done either way.
About the time I was trying to figure all of this out, Denis Welch came out with a LH drive throttle cable conversion kit that in my view is very well done. It contains a cast aluminum bracket that bolts to the intake manifold and runs a double cable from the pedal lever to the carburetor’s throttle shaft.
http://www.bighealey.co.uk/content/throttle-cable-conversion
Denis Welch Throttle Cable Kit
Because I had already begun my work and had my firewall bracket in place I decided to use the Welch cast aluminum bracket for my car, but not the rest of the kit. It has a swing mechanism built into to the cable housing that takes all alignment pressure off the cable. The kit is designed for racing cars and as such has a double cable. The double cable probably provides a somewhat smoother action and some security. I only use one cable, but I will probably switch to two at some point.
Approaching the carburetor throttle shaft lever from the manifold side of the carbs means you are pulling the carburetor throttle shaft lever up and there is not a great deal of room for that swing. I ended up cutting a notch out of my heat shield to remove any encumbrances. The image below shows the Denis Welch manifold-mounted bracket and the cut-out in the heat shield.
Welch Throttle Bracket
The Cable
The kits provide cable and fittings. I decided to use a Lokar cable and fittings only because I liked the braided cable appearance in the engine bay. Other’s may prefer black and in fact, Lokar now makes this same cable in black with black fittings. http://www.lokar.com/product-pgs/throttlecables-kickdowns/tc-kd-pgs/throttle-cables.html
Lokar Throttle Cable
The Total Package
This image shows the engine bay with the throttle cable installed. I now run a stainless heater pipe rather than the copper, and my fuel hose routes differently on the front carburetor, but other than that things today are pretty much what you see in this image.
I cannot make meaningful comparisons between the functionality of the original throttle linkage and the new throttle cable. My mechanical linkage was fifty years old and worn out so comparisons are not appropriate. I do know that the cable has worked quite well, is very responsive, and much easier to get to than the original mechanical system.
My Bloody Beast Engine with Throttle Cable
Another’s Installation
I don’t know who owns the car, but I recently came across some images of a throttle cable conversion that is accomplished quite well in my view. There is a long cable run, but it is well executed. This car uses Webers instead of SUs but the approach is the same. Apologies to the owner if he/she is unhappy sharing this nice work:
Throttle Cable Routing
Throttle Cable Routing
Manifold Mounting
Firewall Mounting
Firewall Mounting
I hope this description has been useful to readers who are interested in taking a similar approach. Just as I borrowed from the work of others and modified to my own tastes I would expect others to do the same. Please comment, offer suggestions as you like.
While the article does not format as well in a pdf document. for those readers who want to save this as a pdf or for those who want to print it as a pdf, this is the link:Throttle Cable Modification – Valve Chatter
The Original Exhaust System
The exhaust system consisted of two exhaust manifolds connected to the silencer by two downpipes ending with flex tubing. A dual tailpipe assembly was used exiting on the left rear of the vehicle.
Exhaust System Modifications
I replaced the standard exhaust system with a Phoenix Big Bore 2″ stainless steel exhaust pipe, silencer, and long branch headers. The headers were Jet-Hot ceramic thermal coated to keep them looking good and to reduce heat.
Jet-Hot Headers
Phoenix Headers
Phoenix Headers Installed
I used flexible stainless pipe to link the headers to the silencer.
Flex Pipes
2″ Big Bore Stainless Pipes
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Engine installed
Engine Number
29D/RU/H5677
The engine was a development of the 100/6 2.6-litre unit and now had a capacity of 2912cc, which produced 124bhp. B.H.P.: 124 @ 4,600 r.p.m. (B.H.P. per ton laden 97.4)
Engine Modifications
Modifications affecting the engine may also be found under the categories of “ignition,” “fuel” and “electrical,” but the following items represent the enhancements made to the stock motor:
Spin-on Oil Filter
Oil filter adapters permitting the use of a contemporary oil filter are available from a number of sources. I purchased mine from Healey aficionado Don Lenschow who, unfortunately, is now deceased. Don fabricated the adapter himself. Instructions for the installation of the adapter are found here: Oil Filter Adapter. I chose to use a K&N filter #HP2009 with the adapter.
Spin On Oil Filter
Aluminum Cylinder Head
I chose to replace the very heavy original cast iron cylinder head with a new aluminum head sourced from Denis Welch. I selected the fully prepared head with new valves, springs, studs, valve seat inserts and etc. Various head preparations are available, I chose the “fast road” version. This pdf file certifies the head: D Welch Head certificate.
D. Welch Aluminum Head
Alloy Rocker Cover
After shopping around for a rocker cover to dress up the engine, I concluded that the cast aluminum cover offered by CapeSport International was the best choice. Creating a positive seal to the cylinder head has been a challenge. The Cape makes a rubber seal designed to be used with the cover, but even that one has been difficult. The polished cover does look very nice and with the aston type oil filler cap it does look like one of the early racing cars.
Engine Bling
Alloy Oil Sump
For strength and durability, I knew that I would switch to an aluminum oil sump, but finding the right one took some shopping around. After consulting with others on the Healey email list I decided on the sump offered by British Parts Northwest. Other pans required shortening of the oil pump filler pipe, but the BPN pan fit without modification.
Alloy Oil Sump
Rear Main Oil Seal
All original Healeys leak oil from the rear main. Several manufacturers provide a seal kit to help solve the problem. Installation does require modification of the engine backplate. I decided on the Denis Welch kit and installed it while the engine was out of the car during rebuild.
Denis Welch Rear Oil Seal
PCV Valve
The original engine provided a vent hose from the block and the rocker cover to the rear carburetor air cleaner to assist breathing. With my air cleaner set up I do not have an inlet to the air cleaner to provide ventilation. I installed a PCV valve to address this issue and vented it to the inlet manifold for vacuum. The kit was available from British Car Specialists. The image below shows the installed valve and piping.
PCV Installed
Camshaft Grind
I sent my original camshaft to Delta Camshafts for a regrind to BJ8 specs and was pleased with the work.
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Installing the Audiovox CCS-100 Cruise Control in a 1960 BT7
April, 2008
I decided to install a cruise control system in my car near the end of a complete restoration. The engine was in place, but the front shroud, wings and doors were yet to be installed. It seemed like the perfect time to add cruise control. Having seen the Audiovox unit installed in several cars at some recent Conclaves and Encounters, I knew it was the one for me simply because I love my modifications to be discreet when possible (my car has many “personalizations”). The Audiovox control module fits inside the gearbox cover chrome ash tray, and can be completely concealed. Knowing that other Healey owners had reported that the Audiovox unit performed in a satisfactory manner, I placed my order from J. C. Whitney and started thinking about how I would install it on my car.
My car has been converted to negative ground.
I have prepared this “tutorial” to try to be of help to those who might be interested in adding cruise to their Healeys, but a word of caution is appropriate. My notes are no substitute for the very comprehensive instructions provided in the kit, especially when it comes to the wiring. As I mentioned, my car has a number of modifications and that means that your experience may well be different than my own.
First, I want to thank a few people who provided responses to my enquiries concerning the addition of cruise control. Alan Teague and Carl Brown were both particularly helpful, as were Len Hartnet and Bob Slater. Al Malin shared some images of installations he had seen at the Vermont 2007 Conclave. They are included below; however, I am afraid I don’t know the owners of the cars so I cannot give proper attribution. The October 2002 issue of Healey Marque contains an article entitled Healey Cruise Control, by Dick Lunney and John Jones that I also found of great assistance. I definitely recommend reviewing the article before you undertake adding cruise control. Dick installed the cruise on his BN2 and John on his BN7. Everyone I consulted used the Audiovox system with the exception of Bob Slater, although I do not know what brand he used. All of my commentary is in reference to the Audiovox CCS-100 only.
Audiovox Cruise Control Image 1
As one will quickly deduct from a preliminary review of the instructions, this unit is designed for a multitude of vehicles, but as you might guess Austin Healeys are not listed in the various brands and models of cars identified in the packaging. Because of the somewhat universal application, the kit comes with quite an array of fittings, brackets and linkages that are of no use with our car and they can therefore be set aside.
The primary components of the system are: 1. The vacuum canister and vacuum connection; 2. The magnet and sensor for the propshaft; 3. The throttle linkage; 4. The control module; and 5. The wiring of the system.
I will attempt to describe each.
I began my installation with the magnet and sensor for the propshaft. This necessitates the removal of the gearbox cover. I aligned the magnet and the sensor with the propshaft in the car, but after locating both components, I actually found that I could do a much better job of wiring the magnet in place with the provided safety wire if the propshaft was on my workbench. The Healey requires the use of only one magnet (two are supplied).
Cruise Control Propshaft Image 2
It is installed with a double-sided sticky foam pad on the propshaft. My propshaft was new and freshly painted. If yours is not, you will need to clean it with sandpaper, brush and solvent.
Safety Wire Twister Tool Image 3
If you want to do a nice job, I highly recommend using safety wire twisting pliers. They make the job much easier and result in higher quality work. I got my pliers from Aircraft Spruce, but I am sure they are readily available from other suppliers as well.
Cruise Control Propshaft Image 4
Cruise control Propshaft Image 5
Note that when you secure the magnet to the shaft that you have the two “ears” in the proper position to be wired in place. The wire “snaps” into the ears and you can hear it “click.” Pulling the wire apart at the joint helps to tighten the assembly on the propshaft, and really does function much better than I ever would have suspected. You may have noticed I am using a propshaft yoke for a Toyota gearbox as I have installed the Smitty 5 speed conversion in my BT7.
Cruise Control Propshaft Image 6
Your installation may be different, but in my case I was able to simply drill a hole into the side of the gearbox tunnel and fasten the magnet sensor with the nut and washer provided. Depending upon your situation you may need to use one of the brackets provided in the kit for the sensor. The sensor must be pointed directly at the center-line of the propshaft with a 3/8” gap between the sensor and the magnet.
Cruise Control Propshaft Image 7
Cruise Control Propshaft Image 8
Cruise Control Module or Panel
My next step was to install the cruise control module or panel in the ash tray. You may elect to place it on your dash fascia, console or a custom panel. The routing of the wiring needs to be considered in determining the best location for you and your car. I decided that I wanted to run all of the wiring associated with cruise control under the gearbox cover and the gearbox extension. Others have simply run the wiring under the carpet.
I drilled a ½” hole in the center of the bottom of the ash tray and in the ash tray bracket that is part of the gearbox cover. I carefully smoothed the edges of both holes with a file. You will note that my ash tray is mounted backwards and the bracket has a couple of extra holes (that is a long story, unrelated to the cruise control installation). The control module can then be inserted into the ash tray with the wiring connected to the module pulled through the two holes.
Modified Ash Tray for Cruise Image 9
Modified AshTray for Cruise Image 10
You will need to form some type of spacer to sit in the ash tray below the control module otherwise it will “float” in the space. Styrofoam, or a small block of wood will work. The module has a two-sided sticky adhesive pad on its rear side for location on a flat panel. The size of the module does make for a very neat installation. My BT7 installation ended up looking like this:
Cruise Control Panel Installation Image 11
Alan Teague’s BJ8 Console install:
Alan Teague’s BJ8 Console Install Image 12
Herb and Bonnie Chrestie’s Dash Fascia Install:
Herb and Bonnie Chrestie’s Dash Fascia Install Image 13
Programming and Installing the Servo Canister
This is the next task. On the back of the vacuum canister there is a small plastic cover that is removed to reveal seven dip switches. The instructions provide more detail on the dip switch settings, but for the six cylinder Big Healey three switches are set to the “on” position and four are set to the “off” position.
Servo Switch Image 14
Those that are set to the “on” position are numbers 1, 3 and 7. For all manual transmission cars, the small black jumper connector located on the left side of dip switch #1 is removed. The 10-pin plastic wiring harness connector is then plugged into (snapped) place on the dip switch panel, and the wires are folded back. The plastic cover is then replaced with two small self-tapping screws.
Servo Switch Image 15
Servo Switch Image 16
Locating the Vacuum Canister
Locating the canister in the vehicle was the most challenging part of the project for me. As I mentioned previously, I have a number of modifications on my car that meant places that were used by others who have installed this unit were not available to me because something was already located in the spot where the canister might go.
Vacuum Unit Install Image 17
Al Malin took the photo to the above at the Vermont Conclave that shows the canister mounted to the right firewall brace. That didn’t work for me because I already had placed a radiator overflow tank there. This location might work for you, but then again you might wish to make the canister less visible.
Vacuum Unit Install Image 18
Several people have reported mounting the canister on the fresh air box beside the steering column. Carl Brown and Alan Teague selected that location. It might also be mounted below the left wing, but you cannot get too low due to heat from the exhaust.
Alan Hendrix of Hendrix Wire Wheel installed the cruise control on Devin William’s car. He chose to mount the canister along the LH frame rail and then routed the cable up into the engine bay. In my case I wanted the canister hidden as much as possible (of course, this means it will be harder to get to if you need to access the canister again!), and I was somewhat restricted as I have mentioned. I ended up removing the curved metal bracket on the canister and used plastic ties to mount the canister to the dash fascia brace to the right of the steering column.
Vacuum Unit Install Image 19
This was easy for me since the front shroud was not on the car at the time, but I could still get to it from under the dash if needed. Pardon the wiring mess in the image above, I had not yet “cleaned-up” the wiring when I took the photo.
My BT7 Vacuum Unit Install Image 20
In the end, inside the engine bay, inside the cockpit, or along the frame is a matter of personal preference. The instructions emphatically state not to mount the vacuum canister on the engine itself. Each has its advantages and disadvantages. Inside the cockpit means it is probably easier to hide the 10-pin connector and the wiring harness, but it also means that you must route the throttle control cable and the vacuum line from the canister through grommets on the firewall. Inside the cockpit the canister is more easily hidden, but you also can hear the unit working (not objectionable levels to me) since you don’t benefit from getting the unit on the other side of the firewall. You just need to experiment. Let me know if you come up with another location and send me an image and I will include it in this little write-up!
Once the location of the canister is determined, the vacuum line needs to be installed. In their Healey Marque article, Dick Lunney and John Jones described using copper tubing for the vacuum line rather than the rubber hose included in the kit. Whatever you choose to use, the tubing or hose needs to get connected to the intake manifold. Depending upon what you have connected to the manifold already (brake servo, pcv valve and etc.) will determine whether you can use a fitting already available on the manifold, whether you will us a “T” splitter provided in the kit, to take advantage of a vacuum line already in place, or whether you might even drill and tap another hole in the manifold for a fitting as Dick and John did.
In my case, I am using the small original fitting on the manifold for a pcv valve, the vacuum line to the distributor is routed from the rear carb (I am using HD8 BJ8 carbs on my BT7), so that left the original large blanking plug (7/8” I believe) on the manifold to be used. I drilled a hole through the center of the plug. Tapped it, installed a radiator drain valve I had laying around, soldered the fitting to seal it and presto I had a nice little connector for my cruise control canister. I used what I had, I am sure you can come up with something that will work equally well! These are images of the fitting and the installation of the hose:
Homemade Vacuum Fitting Image 21
Cruise Control Vacuum Fitting Image 22
By the way, the stainless cable in the right photo is my throttle cable routed from the accelerator pedal lever – not to be confused with the throttle cable for the cruise control assembly.
So far we have installed the magnet and sensor, the cruise control control module and the vacuum canister with its vacuum line. It is now time to turn to the wiring for the cruise mechanism.
Cruise Control Wiring
Caution: Follow the wiring instructions included with the cruise control kit! I have simply provided a guide that reflects how I wired my car, but remember yours may be different. My car has been converted to negative ground.
Turn “off” the battery switch in the boot or disconnect the battery before undertaking the wiring to avoid the potential of unpleasant results!
There are a number of wires to connect for the cruise control, but the task is really fairly easy. As typical of most Healey projects, patience is required. I will proceed with the wiring by source location and color. Before actually connecting any wires, I advise figuring out what your routing will be. The harness has a generous length of wire, but you do need to figure out the path of each.
The BT7 gearbox cover is in two parts, the cover itself and the gearbox cover extension between the cover and the firewall. The speedometer cable is routed between the firewall and the cover extension. I decided to run most of my wiring immediately next to the speedometer cable, behind the gearbox extension and to route the wires along the gearbox. In this manner, the wiring is hidden from view. The down side is to access the wiring you must remove the gearbox cover or approach the wiring from under the vehicle. Others have routed the wiring under the carpet. Of course, if you mount the cruise control module on the dash then you will have an entirely different wiring plan. Therefore, again, you will need to map out your wiring plan in advance.
This is an image of the wiring once connected as routed on my car. I left the wiring loose for the photo so the various color wires could be seen. I then encased the wiring in a black plastic tube (provided in kit) to give a neater installation. Remember, I am using a Toyota 5-speed gearbox.
Cruise Wiring Along Gearbox Image 23
Trouble shooting: The instruction booklet provides a test sequence for the wiring if for some reason your unit is not functioning as it should.
Throttle Control Linkage.
The final step is to determine where you will attach a new lever on the throttle shaft and then locate a bracket for the throttle control cable from the vacuum canister to the throttle linkage. Throughout my restoration I have avoided drilling any new holes in the car unless it was absolutely necessary. In all but just a few instances I have been able to work out a solution to mounting various components by taking advantage of screws or bolts already on the car. To do so with the cruise throttle control, I designed a bracket, that while a little complex for the purpose did allow me to use the two mounting bolts for the pedal box found on the top of the firewall diagonal brace. The images below show the bracket before and after painting. After painting it red it virtually disappears from view. I routed the cable from the vacuum canister through the firewall and mounted it to the fabricated bracket.
Cruise Control Bracket Image 24
Cruise Control Bracket Image 25
Cruise Control Bracket Image 26
Cruise Control Bracket Image 27
If the integrity of the original structure is less important to you, or if you are connecting the throttle cable in a different location on the throttle shaft (I used a lever on the very end of the shaft for the rear carb) then you can use one of the several brackets provided in the Audiovox kit or you can create your own as I did.
The kit directions indicate that there should be between 1 ½” and 2” total linkage travel. The servo throttle cable and the carb shaft lever are connected with a bead chain supplied in the kit along with couplers for each end of the chain. It is cut to the length required. A minimum of 5 beads should be used. In my case 10 beads were used. The number will of course vary depending upon the set-up in your car. The chain connection should provide for straight and free travel of the linkage when operated.
After the chain connection is made from the servo cable to the carb linkage, nothing remains of the assembly process other than taking the car out on the road and testing the system. I found the Audiovox cruise control to work quite satisfactorily. Perhaps not quite as smooth as the systems found on our vehicles today, but certainly functional and well worth the moderate expense.
Good luck with your installation. Just let me know if in your experience something could be made clearer in these instructions.
Click this link for a pdf file of the Audiovox Installation process: Installing the Audiovox CCS (low res)
Cheers and happy healeying!
Lin Rose
1960 BT7 “The Bloody Beast”
1959 AN5 Bugeye
