Changing Gearbox Oil

Posted on December 10, 2020 by valv8988

I have not changed the gearbox oil in the Toyota 5-speed since it was initially filled around 2007, so as part of my ten year renewal process I thought it should be done. The gearbox uses just under three quarts of oil and I use Redline MT-90.

Redline MT-90

This image taken before I installed the gearbox in the car shows the fill hole for the oil:

Fill Plug LH side of Toyota 5 speed

Both the drain and fill plugs use a 24mm or 11/16″ wrench to loosen. I always loosen the fill hole first because if for some reason you ran into a problem and could not remove the fill plug, you would not want to be stuck with no oil in the box because you had already drained it. After both plugs were removed, the oil was drained and it looked almost as good as when it is fresh. That is always nice to see!

Drain Plug Toyota 5 Speed

Fill Plug Toyota 5 Speed

Following cleaning up around the plug holes and installing a new aluminum crush washer on the drain plug I installed the drain plug and filled the gearbox with oil until it just started to leak out of the fill hole. As stated previously, just slightly under three quarts of oil are used. I then reinstalled the fill plug and washer and the job was complete. Another item on my renewal list checked off.

Cooling System Renewal – 3,600 miles on the odometer

Posted on December 10, 2020 by valv8988

I noticed a very slight wobble in the shaft of the water pump that was ascertained when holding the fan at opposing sides and shaking. Since I am I the midst of a ten-year renewal I decided to go ahead and replace much of the cooling system to include the water pump, mechanical fan, the thermostat and gasket, both radiator hoses, the fan belt and the coolant.

When I restored my car I installed the stainless steel flex fan sold by British Car Specialists. It seemed to work quite well, but was pretty noisy. I noticed that AH Spares was marketing a yellow asymmetrical plastic fan similar to the “Texas Cooler” fan which so many owners seem to favor.

Stainless Fan

AH Spares Fan

The water pump to be replaced on my car is not the original pump. I am really not sure who produced the pump I used when I restored my car. It does not have any external markings on the pump body. Michael Salter restores original pumps but does not want to deal with replacements so I purchased a newly produced pump marketed by AH Spares which is claimed to be superior to what is commonly available on the market. The pump, as unwrapped, is painted black so I roughed up the painted surface, taped off the vent holes and painted the pump and pulley “Healey Green.” A gasket is applied with the pump. I also ordered new water pump/engine block studs to install.

AH Spares Water Pump, Gasket, and Studs

I chose to replace both radiator hoses with Kevlar hoses from AH Spares. The bottom, or lower, Hose has a provision for the heater pipe.

AH Spares Kevlar Upper Radiator Hose

AH Spares Kevlar Lower Radiator Hose With Heater Port

The fan belt is an odd size attributable to the addition of the Delco alternator, but I found one through Amazon from an outfit called Global Power. The belt is a “V” belt 3/8″ x 43.”

Global Power V-belt 3/8 x 43″

Finally the thermostat. Having lived in Virginia with considerably cooler winter temperatures than Florida, I had been using a 195 degree thermostat. I took this occasion to switch to a sleeved 160 degree unit supplied by David Nock at British Car Specialists.

British Car Specialists Thermostat

That concludes the list of parts used on this project. Now to the removal of the old and the installation of the new!

My first step is to remove the stainless panel between the shroud and the radiator. This requires loosening the top radiator mount bolts so the radiator can be pushed rearward slightly. Then disconnect the bonnet pull rod by pulling out the split pin, followed by the four stainless self-tappers.

Radiator Front Stainless Panel

The radiator mounting bolts are metric. 6mm requiring a 10mm wrench. A zip tie is used to secure the coolant overflow tube to the radiator mount so that it cannot foul against the alternator fan.

coolant overflow hose

I then removed the four lower radiator mounting bolts all with 10mm wrench.

Lower Radiator Mounting Bolts

Disconnected the overflow hose from the radiator cap.

Radiator Overflow Tube Clamp at Radiator neck

Removed the radiator drain plug with a 6mm hex Allen wrench and drained the coolant from the radiator. With the mounting bolts removed and the coolant drained one can push the bottom of the radiator forward providing easier access to the lower radiator hose clip. I then loosened the clip with a 10mm socket wrench and freed the hose, of course, more fluid drained out.

Radiator Drain Plug 6mm hex

I then loosened the upper radiator hose bracket at the radiator, again with a 10mm socket. To remove the hose I had to loosen the upper mount for the radiator shroud. It is a 10-32 hex head machine screw.

Radiator Hose Clamp for Upper Hose 10mm

I Loosen the hose clamp at the thermostat housing and tilted the hose upward where I will leave it until I replace it with a new hose.

Upper Radiator Hose

Then I moved on to loosening the clamp on the lower radiator hose for the heater pipe. This clamp requires a 7mm socket. I then loosened the clamp for the lower radiator hose at the water pump with a 8mm socket.

Lower radiator Hose Clamps

The next step is to remove the lower shroud mounts on both sides of the radiator which is connected to the lower radiator mount. This requires a half inch socket with a long extension for the right side.

Radiator Shroud Lower Mounts

I then disconnected the wiring to the electric radiator fan. This requires unplugging the electrical connector and disconnecting the clamp securing the wire.

Electric fan Wiring Connector

Electric Fan wiring and clip disconnected

I was then able to lift the radiator out from the car as well as the left and right baffles.

Radiator and Fan Assembly Removed From Car

Engine Bay Sans Radiator and Baffling

The next step is to remove the engine fan and its spacer. Four bolts with 1/2” wrench.

Engine Fan Mounting

I then needed to take tension off of the fan belt by loosening the alternator swing bracket and locking nut. The locking nut is 13mm while the others are 9/16”.

Alternator loosening points

Following removal of the old fan belt, I removed the nuts and split washers on the four water pump studs, gave the pump body a few taps and removed the pump. Again, be prepared for coolant spillage. The lower center nut is a bit hard to access, but it is doable. I then used a blade and some brake cleaner and cleaned up the surface of the block to prepare for the pump gasket.

Water pump removed

I removed the four water pump studs from the engine using my handy-dandy stud remover which worked beautifully.

5/16″ Stud Removal Tool

I then chased the threads in the block just to be sure that they were nice and clean.

Cleaning water pump stud threads

Then using the two nut method I installed the new studs with a little blue Loctite on the engine end.

New studs installed with a little blue locktite on the threads of the engine side:

Water Pump Studs Installed

After installing the new water pump using Permatex Water Pump and Thermostat Housing RTV silicone sealant and the new gasket, I then installed a new Gates 43” fan belt and tightened the alternator in place.

Water Pump, Pulley and New fan Belt Installed

While they were out I freshened up the two pieces of the fan shroud just a little sanding and some fresh paint.

Fan Radiator Shroud Repainted

I then loosely installed the shroud to the frame of the car.

Next was the installation of the new fan from AH Spares with four 5/16-24 x 7/8” hex bolts.

AH Spares Fan Installed

I then installed the new Kevlar radiator hoses. So they are ready to connect to the radiator once in.

New Hoses Installed

I lifted the radiator into position and loosely attached the upper two mounting bolts. I then raised the car on the lift to get to the lower mounting brackets.

I reinstalled the radiator drain plug, connected and clamped the lower radiator hose, and loosely fitted the four screws into the lower brackets.

Then the biggest challenge was to install the two air baffles around the radiator. I installed both from below. Difficult but got them in.

RH Radiator Baffle Installed

I then tightened the heater pipe hose clamp and the clamps for the upper radiator hose and the water pump hose. These need to be pretty tight to be effective and eliminate leaks!

Hose Clamps Installed and Tightened

I then raised the car and from the underside reconnected the electric fan and tightened the four lower radiator mount bolts.

Electric Fan Wiring Reconnected

I then purchased some new tubing from the local hardware store for the overflow hose to the radiator neck, installed the aluminum cover panel, and reconnected the bonnet opening rod lever.

I then backed up a bit and loosened the two nuts and lock washers on the thermostat cover and lifted it away from the head. I removed the old thermostat and cleaned up the mating surface on the head and the cover to prepare for the new gasket.

Thermostat seating in the cylinder head.

I decided to use a sleeved thermostat this time around to try to enhance cooling functionality. The following photo shows the hole in the cylinder head permitting recirculation of engine coolant to the engine. The sleeve of the thermostat blanks off the opening until the thermostat opens and coolant from the radiator is introduced to the system.

Coolant bypass opening circled

I again used Permatex Water Pump & Thermostat Housing RTV silicone on both surfaces of the gasket and installed the gasket and thermostat. I then tightened the two split washers and nuts and cleaned up around the edges where the sealant pushed out of the joint.

I decided while I was at it that I would check the accuracy of my dash fascia temperature gauge so I unscrewed the sensor from the head, freed the capillary tube from its two holders and put it in hot water and measured the temperature. While it didn’t exactly match the thermometer I was using in the hot water it was within a few degrees so I felt good about the accuracy of my gauge. I then put a little paint on the nut and reinstalled the sensor to the head using some yellow plumbers tape intended for oils.

coolant temperature sender reinstalled

The sensor nut is hard to access. I used a flare wrench to do the job.

Flare Wrench 5/8″

After buttoning everything up, I took the car out for a short trip around the block and then inspected the engine bay to make sure that I had no coolant leaks. Having none, I then went out for about a thirty minute drive to “heat-soak” the engine. All systems were “go” with no problems and the engine getting no hotter than about 165 degrees.

Kent Lambert in Oregon located an original proper water pump (AEC206), pulley, key, lock washer and nut for me. It requires rebuilding so I have sent it to Michael Salter in Canada to have that job completed. I will then keep it as my spare water pump for the future! Thank you Kent and Michael.

Another ten-year renewal job checked off the list!

New Battery

Posted on December 10, 2020 by valv8988

January 20, 2022

It was time to replace the battery in The Bloody Beast. I ordered another Odyssey AGM battery as I was quite happy with the last one. Model number: ODP-AGM34. I ordered it directly from Odyssey but it was shipped by one of their retail partners, West Coast Batteries.

Odyssey AGM Type 34 Battery

HD8 Carb Final Tuning

Posted on December 10, 2020 by valv8988

Well, I guess that there is never a “final” stage of SU tuning, but the objective in this tuning is to get the car running well and at a place where I can enjoy driving The Bloody Beast, rather than sorting and fiddling.

I described the initial SU carb set-up in an earlier post, https://valvechatter.com/?cat=1367. The initial setting enabled the car to start and run on its own although still a bit rough. I was able to drive the car around the block a few times to get the oil and water temperature up to normal operating temperature before beginning the final tuning.

I used the air flow meter EMPl Carb Synchronization Tool (EMPl Carb Synchronization tool Instructions )to check the air flow balance of the individual carbs and found them to be quite different.

EMPI Carb AIr Sync Tool

I adjusted the slow run valves to bring the air flow to the point where it was reading the same for each carb and I noticed almost right away that the engine was idling more smoothly. I was able to obtain and idle speed of about 500 rpms.

I then adjusted the jet mixture screw on each carb to bring the idle speed up to about 750 rpms. Leaving everything alone at this stage results in little effect when one pulls out the choke knob.

To increase the effectiveness of the choke I then pulled out the choke knob about half way. I then turned the fast idle screw on the rear carb clockwise (downward) until the idle increased to 1,000 rpm. I then turned downward the front carb fast idle screw until it very slightly increased the idle beyond 1,000 rpm, and then backed it off to 1,000 rpm. This procedure evens the throttle shaft load between the two carbs.

The car is running better than ever. Now it is time to enjoy the ride!

Velocity Stack Filters

Posted on December 10, 2020 by valv8988

Some time ago I installed velocity stacks, also sometimes known as ram pipes, on my HD8 carbs and for filtration I was using foam air socks from ITG. While these seem to work effectively, I was just never real excited about using foam and I wanted a filtration method that was also a bit more esthetically pleasing. After some searching, I came across PJ Motorsports in Oregon.

The filter ring is semi-polished aluminum made of .063 aluminum and 3/4″ tall. Their filters use three layers of filtration screens. The first screen is 18×14 mesh; the second is 70 mesh Stainless fabric and the third is 18×14 mesh. Their website states, “We try to filter your airflow without allowing particles through, at the same time trying NOT to deprive the air to the velocity stacks.

Their filters are not made specifically for rimmed velocity stacks like mine from AH Spares, but I was able to order extra ring clips that secure the filter material in the rim and after mounting the filters to the velocity stacks I pressed in the ring clip to secure the stack to the filter rim. I then applied some Loctite 581 Flange Sealant to help keep things together. After two trial runs of over fifty miles, the assembly seems to be secure.

Velocity Stack and Filter Installed

Loctite 518 Flange Sealant and locking Ring in Place

Velocity Stack Filters Installed

March 20, 2023 Update: The flange sealant method of attaching the filters to the velocity stacks described below did not hold up. So, I drilled 1/8″ holes through the filter rims and the velocity stack curled edges and attached the filter rims to the stacks with #6 x 1/2″ self tapping screws.

Velocity Stack Filters screwed to the Stacks

I am very pleased with both the look and performance of the new filtration system.

Ten Year Renewal Check List

Posted on December 10, 2020 by valv8988

Bloody Beast Ten Year Renewal Plan

This is an initial draft of a check list for my ten year renewal project. I would love to have feedback from others on the completeness of the list. Obviously, some of these items will have been tended to rather recently during routine maintenance and they will now just get a quick check. My car is low mileage since its total restoration nine-plus years ago. Consequently, numerous items will not involve the typical wear one might see for this period of time. Instead, the item might need attention for age rather than wear.

Thanks to those readers who have written suggesting items to add to my check list. I appreciate your review! I have updated the list and it is current as of October 3, 2018

Bloody Beast Ten Year Renewal Plan

Body

RH side curtain vent installation – Unique to my situation

Repair all paint chips with touch up paint

Modify the Cape International rear bumper brackets to move the bumpers closer to the shroud. – Unique to my situation

Clay, Polish, and Wax

Lubricate Bonnet, Door, and Boot hinges and locks

White grease on door locks

White grease on bonnet catch

White grease on boot lock

Brakes and Clutch

Flush and refill hydraulic fluid and consider replacement of the master cylinders, bleed system. Outer portion of reservoir feeds the braking system. Inner portion feeds the clutch.

Check condition of all brake lines and rubber hoses and replace if needed

Consider replacing parts of the Cape International rear disc brake conversion with Steve Gerow’s kit. Unique to my situation

Inspect brake pads and renew if needed.

Check tightness of the slave cylinder fasteners.

Grease handbrake cable and compensator

Cooling

Replace radiator upper and lower hoses

Replace the fan belt

Check condition of the radiator cap

Flush coolant and replace with new coolant.

Electrical System

Replace alternator – Unique to my situation

Check all electrical connection points

Check condition of the battery and clean posts if needed.

Check tightness of fasteners securing the ground strap in the boot.

Add a back-up light from the gearbox

Replace the incandescent courtesy lamps with LED lights

Engine

Check tightness of Crankshaft starter nut and harmonic balancer

Adjust valve clearances

Oil and oil filter (K&N HP-2009) change – replace copper crush washer at drain plug

Check engine for leaks and repair where possible. Check the oil sump bolts.

Replace gaskets/seals for generator mounting plate and tappet covers.

Check tightness of all oil sump mounting bolts.

Replace rocker cover seal.

Replace the rocker cover “T” breather pipe with Cape International “U” pipe to take breather hoses to a Mishimoto oil catch can.- Unique to my situation

Check condition of engine mounts and bolt tightness.

Visually inspect core plugs for any seepage

Exhaust

Inspect system for any leaks and repair if needed

Check for tightness of fasteners

Fuel

Replace fuel filter – Malassi Filter King and Holley Gauge

Replace rubber fuel hose with ethanol resistant hose.

Check tightness of Carb fittings. Clean and polish carbs check damper oil level.

Change ITG air filter to Burlen Ram Pipes. – Unique to my situation

Adjust carbs as needed. See Steve Byers instructions.

Consider a reworking of the fuel delivery hose system from pipe to carbs. Unique to my situation.

Add a ground connection wire from the fuel sender unit to the frame.

Check fuel sender/gasket for any fuel leakage.

Lubricate carb linkages with light oil

Front suspension

Check condition of rubber boots on ball joints and other bushings.

Check the tightness of all shock absorber mounting bolts.

Check Oil in the shock absorbers.

Check the tightness of the nuts/bolts under the spring pans.

Check the working condition of all grease zerks and grease them.

Inspect the front bearings. Repack or replace. Set end-float to spec.

Inspect the splines on the hubs and the wheels. Make sure all hub nuts are tight.

Check for wear in the king pin by testing to see if there is movement when grabbing the tire at the bottom and trying to move it in and out.

Gearbox & Propshaft

Check all mounting fasteners for tightness.

Drain gearbox oil and replace with a little less than 3 quarts of Red Line MT-90 synthetic gear oil.

Check condition of U-joints (?)

Heater

Inspect rubber heater hoses and replace if needed.

Consider replacement of the heater water valve to ensure it is not clogged.

Ignition

Inspect ignition system wiring and connection points

Inspect spark plugs and replace with new NGK BP6ES plugs

Check engine timing

Interior

Replace bristleflex door seals

Treat leather surfaces with conditioner.

Check oil seal on the back of the tachometer to see if there are any drips.

Lights

Check all bulbs and flashers for correct operation

Check operation of all dash lights

Rear Axle & Suspension

Refresh Axle Differential Gear Oil

Check fasteners for U-bolts, shock absorbers

Check the working condition of all grease zerks and grease them

Check the breather on the the axle casing

Check rear bearings for smooth turning and seals for leaks

Check oil in the shock absorbers

Steering

Check fill levels of the steering idler and steering box and add Penrite Steering Oil.

Check tightness of all fasteners and rubber ball joint boots.

Tires

Inspect for age and wear. Replace if needed.

Check inflation pressures and adjust if needed.

Wheels

Inspect all wheels for loose spokes. Repair if needed.

Windshield & Windshield Washer

Inspect and refresh fluid in reservoir

Replace wiper blades

Wheels & Tires

Posted on March 15, 2020 by valv8988

The Original Tires and Wheels

The wheels were Dunlop 15” 48 spoke center-lock wire wheels painted silver-grey secured with a two-eared chromed bronze knock-off. The car was fitted with Dunlop Roadspeed RS4 tubed black-wall bias ply tires.

Tire and Wheel Modifications

I decided to use Dayton chrome/stainless wire wheels supplied by Hendrix Wire Wheel. The selected tires were Michelin 175 x 15″ ZX. Alan Hendrix and Jerry Anderson were both very helpful with the purchase and with follow up questions.

Tires and Wheels

Fast forward to August 2015. I am way overdue to replace my Michelin ZXs. They still look great but they have surpassed their useful life by a considerable number of years! The sad news is that the ZXs are no longer available. That is a shame as I really liked the way they looked and performed. Following a fair amount of research, I have concluded that the Michelin XAS 180 HR15 is the best tire to replace my ZXs. Many Healey driver’s have switched to Vredestein Sprint Classics, but I favor the Michelin tire. The XAS has a slightly larger diameter: I believe 26.7″ versus the ZX 26.” The XAS has asymmetric treads favored for a smooth nice ride with good traction. There are a couple of downsides. Unfortunately these tires are $260 each plus another $27 for a tube for each tire. The ZXs were tubeless! My other concern is that the slightly larger tire may not fit in the boot. As a consequence, I have decided to take Allen Hendrix’s advice and go with a smaller 165 Nexen tire ($100) as a spare. This should work fine. On the off chance that I actually need the spare, it won’t be on the car for long.

So I ordered the XAS tires from Coker Tire in Chattanooga, TN and had them drop shipped to Allen Hendrix. Next week the wheels and ZXs go to Hendrix Wire Wheel to have the wheels checked, tires mounted and trued and then shipped back to me.

michelin-XAS-180HR-15

Nexen 165 for the Spare

Suspension/Axle

Posted on March 15, 2020 by valv8988

The Original Front Suspension

The front suspension used coil springs, a 5/8” anti-sway bar, rubber bushings and Armstrong lever shocks.

Front Suspension Modifications

Tube Shocks

I had the front shocks rebuilt by World Wide Auto Parts http://www.nosimport.com/, but decided to install Bilstein Tube shocks supplied in Udo Putzke’s Fahrspass http://www.putzkes-fahrspass.com/Eng/kits.html Tube Shock Kit. I ave been very pleased with the performance of the shocks. This is a document describing the installation: Putzkes Fahrspass Tube Shock Kit.

Blistein Tube Shocks

Anti-sway Bar

I replaced the standard 5/8″ bar with a heavy duty 7/8″ sway bar with poly bushing and rose joint links sourced from Cape International. http://www.cape-international.com/

Anti-Sway Bar

Poly Bushings

All of the front suspension rubber bushings were replaced with poly bushings purchased from Putzke’s Fahrspass http://www.putzkes-fahrspass.com/Eng/BigHealey_poly_page.htm Lubricating poly bushes is important. The image below illustrates the proper lubricating surfaces.

Putzke’s poly bush lubrication

Coil Springs

At the recommendation of others, I replaced the BT7 springs with springs from the BJ8.

Front Lowering Kit

I like a slightly more aggressive look accomplished by lowering the front end so I purchased a lowering kit from Denis Welch Motorsport http://www.bighealey.co.uk/content/lowering-kit. When you lower the front end it is also necessary to add a spacer to the rubber bump stop. This was also sourced from Denis Welch http://www.bighealey.co.uk/content/bump-stop-spacers-and-tube-nuts.

Lowering Kit

Ball Joint Dust Covers

Rubber components in today’s restoration world are often very poor quality. Someone on the Healey list serve discovered that Hyundai ball joint covers, past #56828-21010, are of superior quality to that available for the Healey. I ordered and used them and they worked perfectly!

Tie Rod Dust Seals

Original Rear Suspension/Axle

Semielliptic leaf springs, solid axle with transverse panhard rod, 3.909 rear differential

Rear Suspension/Axle Modifications

Tube Shocks

As with the front shocks, I decided to install Bilstein Tube shocks supplied in Udo Putzke’s Fahrspass http://www.putzkes-fahrspass.com/Eng/kits.html Tube Shock Kit in the rear. I ave been very pleased with the performance of the shocks. This is a document describing the installation: Putzkes Fahrspass Tube Shock Kit.

Bilstein Tube Shock

Rear Leaf Springs

Having used the Jule Enterprises frame, I also decided on Martin Jansen’s custom made leaf springs. They worked perfectly. Ride is great and the car sits nicely with the proper gap between the tires and the body. Martin’s springs use BJ8 mounting hardware.

Leaf Spring

Rear Differential Gears

Many Healey owners who converted to the Toyota 5-speed gearboxes suggest that the 3.54 gears in the rear end make for a nice combination. Mike Lempert, who makes Healey steering wheels also arranged for the manufacture of the 3.54 gear sets. I was fortunate to be able to purchase a set and install them in the Bloody Beast.

Lempert 3.54 Gears

Steering/Trafficator

Posted on March 15, 2020 by valv8988

Steering

I made no modifications to the original steering system consisting of the steering box, steering idler, and steering arms. However, both the steering box and idler were completely rebuilt.

Steering Wheel

I did replace the original steering wheel with a Moto-Lita Mahogany Wood Wheel. This also requires adding a new hub.

Moto Lita Wheel

Moto-Lita Hub

Control Head/Trafficator

The control head or trafficator, as it is more often called, often needs a rebuild on our forty plus year old cars. The control head has the turn indicators with a self-canceling feature, and the horn button with wiring. I rebuilt my control head myself and benefitted from some of the images that Tracy Drummond had assembled. To try to help others I put together the following article:

Control Head (Trafficator) Rebuild for an Adjustable Wheel

July, 2005 – Revised October 2, 2005

Well, I have been putting off the task of rebuilding the control head to prepare it for installation in my Moto-Lita wood rim steering wheel. I rebuilt the original control head when I was in college and I don’t recall it being a fun task. Although, back then I did so without any instruction. Today I have the benefit of helpful tips from Norman Nock, Michael Salter, Steve Byers, John Trifari and Tracy Drummond and others. The notes below and some of the images are “borrowed” from their work. Tracy’s photos were particularly helpful.

If your control head or trafficator is fine, but you want to install a restored or new steering wheel, Roger Moment has provided some useful tips for partially disassembling the trafficator to permit switching out the wheel without pulling the wiring. His guidance is provided at the end of this article.

For starters I now know that the way to begin is not to pry up the bent tabs at the back of the unit! Instead, the process is much simpler but less obvious. Turns out the whole job was not as bad as I had remembered.

In my case I needed to completely rebuild my control head because the signal lever was broken and because I needed to install new wiring. I also wanted to improve the finish of the Bakelite head which had turned a bit brown with age. If one only needed to replace the wiring the suggestions from Michael Salter proved to be very helpful. That was my first step.

Read through these instructions completely before starting the disassembly!! If you don’t want to try this then I understand that Vic Wright ([email protected]) does a great job of rebuilding used units!

On the steering wheel, you will see three set screws on the steering wheel hub, forward of the spokes. Loosen (probably remove, to avoid losing them) the screws. The four wires that go to the control head need to be disconnected from the harness at the front of the car not far from where they exit the long stator tube at the steering box. The job is made easier if one simply cuts the bullet connectors off the wiring and then solders a wire or ties fishing line to the wire. Having the line attached to the wiring will make inserting the new wiring much easier than it would otherwise be. The line should just rest in the steering column until the replacement is ready to install. The control head with a short stator tube and the wiring can then be removed from the steering column by pulling straight out (not twisting). Neil Trelenberg suggests drawing a line on the stator (short and long) tube with a felt marker as a guide for realigning later.

Now to the disassembly of the control head unit:

First, carefully pry the horn button trim ring away from the bakelite head being careful not to scratch it.

Trafficator Rebuild Image 1

Once the horn button is loosened, the horn spring will be revealed. Its small diameter end faces to the bakelite head. The laminated blades of the horn switch secured by two brass screws also become evident.

Trafficator Rebuild Image 2

Examine the entire assembly. On the back of the unit, viewed from the side, a small tab bent down into a slot can be observed.

Trafficator Rebuild Image 3

The tab can be pushed up so that it slides on the flat plate and the unit can be rotated slowly. Doing so provides access through 3 holes in the base mount plate to 3 slotted screws.

Trafficator Rebuild Image 4

Before removing the three screws, make a note or reference mark of how the two halves of the unit secured by the three screws goes together. Then remove the screws. The correct orientation of the turn signal lever is straight up, but if the two halves are oriented incorrectly, the turn signal lever will be either pointed down, or off to the side.

Trafficator Rebuild Image 5

The stator tube, base plate, locating plate, the base mount plate and assorted washers and spring can then be separated from the bakelite mounting plate and head. This assembled unit does not need to be disassembled. It can be pulled off the wires and set aside for assembly later.

Trafficator Rebuild Image 6

Examine the back of the mounting plate. There are six nuts visible. Three are for the turn signal switch, two are for the horn (one goes through the brass gound ring) and the one without an attached wire is to hold the head and the mounting plate together (It is barely visible in the photo under the wiring sheath). Make a drawing to illustrate the color code and where each of the wires should reconnect to its proper fitting.

Trafficator Rebuild Image 7

If your plan is to install a new wiring harness only and you do not wish to disassemble the control head to access the turn signal switch it is IMPORTANT to install the new wires onto the screws one wire at a time.

A. The screw on the right in the photo is accessed under the horn button. Hold it with a screw driver and loosen the nut holding the wire, remove the nut, change the wire, refit and tighten the nut.

B. The nut second from the right is held in place by a hex head screw recessed in the bakelite mounting plate. The turn signal lever must be moved so that it is aligned behind the screw/nut. It will hold the screw in place permitting removal of the nut and old wire, change the wire and refit and tighten the nut. Do not let the turn signal lever slip while doing this procedure or you will likely be disassembling the complete unit!

C. Reposition the turn signal lever to the center position and repeat B. above for the screw/nut located third from the right.

D. Move the turn signal lever behind the screw/nut located fourth from the right and repeat B. above.

If all you are doing is replacing the wiring you are finished. Leave the screw/nut to the far left, through the horn ground ring, alone.

Feed the wire through the base plate and the stator tube. Reinstall the three base plate screws with the trigger opposite the turn signal lever. I found it easiest to install the screws with the unit on its side. Don’t forget to then reposition the thin plate with the locating tab to the slot and push it down. Reinstall the horn button, spring and chrome trim ring. Note that the button and ring have a locating notch that matches up with the bakelite head.

I recommend cutting the bullet connectors off the wires, solder the wire or tie the fishing line left in the steering column, to the new wires and slowly pull the new wiring harness through the stator tube and out the end of the steering box. The fit of the harness in the tube is tight so it might be best to tape the wire ends together as they are pulled through. The short stator tube fits down and into the longer stator tube in the column. The tubes go together in only one orientation, directed by the dimples found on the side of the short tube.

If you are installing the control head into a non-stock wooden steering wheel you may need to install a shim (I used the plastic top of a yogurt container) inside the hub between the hub and the control head to move the control head toward the driver slightly so that the turn signal lever does not contact the wheel ring. Then reinstall the three set screws to tighten the control head to the wheel hub.

Cleaning or repairing the turn signal mechanism.

Remove the two screws holding the laminated blades of the horn switch under the horn button. The horn switch will lift out. The third screw can then be removed and the bakelite head can then be separated from the mounting plate.

Trafficator Rebuild Image 8

The turn signal lever is attached with one screw to the back of the bakelite mounting plate. Underneath it is a curved wire with a spring on each side of the lever.

Trafficator Rebuild Image 9

Trafficator Rebuild Image 10

There is another little spring and ball at the bottom of the turn signal lever.

Trafficator Rebuild Image 11

If you carefully remove the single screw to separate the lever from the assembly, the springs and small parts should stay in place. Note how they should be reassembled, then take apart, clean and lubricate with a little lithium grease.

Trafficator Rebuild Image 12

If you experience an explosion of parts, don’t be alarmed. It will all go back together! All components are identified in the photo below:

Trafficator Rebuild Image 13

The proper positioning of the two hinges or “triggers” is important. They have angles on the end that fit opposite each other. They need to be placed as seen in the image and drawing for the canceling switch to work. Before reassembly of the complete unit, now is a good time to refinish the bakelite if it is needed.

Trafficator Rebuild Image 14

Refinishing the Bakelite Head

I have lost the source of these instructions or I would give attribution, but clean the head well and wipe with a liquid cleaner like the type used before spray painting metal. Then apply black India ink. I used two coats letting the first coat dry for about an hour before applying the second. Then use black paste shoe polish rubbed in well. Polish. Reapply paste and polish again. Finally, apply a coat of carnuba wax for protection and final shine. Be very careful to not drop the bakelite head! I recommend doing all the polishing over a carpeted floor in case the head is dropped. This should result in a control head that looks brand new.

Trafficator Rebuild Image 15

Assembly

Carefully place the head and the mounting plate together pushing the spring at the end of the turn signal lever into the mounting plate. Holding the two pieces together install and tighten the single screw and nut at the bottom of the unit. This screw/nut will securely hold the two pieces together while the horn switch screws and nuts are inserted and tightened.

Trafficator Rebuild Image 16

I recommend, based on the comments of others and my own experience, cutting the bullet connectors off the wires, solder the wire or tie the fishing line left in the steering column, to the new wires and slowly pull the new wiring harness through the stator tube and out the end of the steering box. The fit of the harness in the tube is tight so it might be best to tape the wire ends together as they are pulled through.

Steve Byers took a slightly different approach that certainly makes taking the wiring through the stator tube easier. He commented, “although I have been able to pull the harness out of the column with the connectors installed, I have never been able to put it back in no matter how tightly I taped/wrapped the connectors together. The last time I did this, I installed a new steering column harness as a part of a general re-wiring. To make it easy on myself, I cut off all the bullets from the new harness (leaving about 3/4″ of the wire attached to each), fed the harness through, and then soldered the bullets back on with a piece of heat-shrink tubing over the splice. The key is, I did not twist the wires together before soldering but soldered them together as they lay side by side. That way, next time the harness needs removing it will be easy to remove the bullets without damaging the wire, and that can be done many times without damage to the wires.”

The short stator tube fits down and into the longer stator tube in the column. The tubes go together in only one orientation, directed by the dimples found on the side of the short tube.

If you are installing the control head into a non-stock wooden steering wheel (Moto Lita, Derrington) you may need to install a shim (I used the plastic top of a yogurt container) inside the hub between the hub and the control head to move the control head toward the driver slightly so that the turn signal lever does not contact the wheel ring. Then reinstall the three set screws to tighten the control head to the wheel hub. The job is complete! Now the control head (horn and turn signal control switch) will look and work as well as the rest of your car.

Roger Moment’s tips for installing a new steering wheel or repairing the trafficator without removing the wiring.

For those who are really bold and experienced Roger Moment has informed me that it is possible to complete a trafficator repair or replace a steering wheel without having to pull the wires up through the stator tube. I have no personal experience with this approach so I cannot comment on the degree of difficulty, but if Roger says it can be done, then it can! However, he emphasized that it should only be attempted by those who are totally familiar with the disassembly of these units.

The relevant steps are:

Unclip the end of the steering column harness so that there is about 8″ or more of slack. This is accomplished by locating the clip that holds it to the cross brace in front of the radiator.

Back off the three retaining pointed screws in the steering wheel hub.

Pull out the head enough so that it can drop down across the front of the steering wheel.

Push up and rotate the retaining tab as seen in Image #3 and below in Image 17.

Trafficator Rebuild Image 17

Remove the three screws securing the mounting to the backing plate.

Trafficator Rebuild Image 18

Then separate the backing plate:

Trafficator Rebuild Image 19

One can then remove the wires as described earlier in this article, using the technique with the lever to “back up” the contacts so that they don’t fall into the head. It is very important to replace the nuts immediately after removing each wire!

Once the wiring has been removed from the switch assembly, if you are only going to repair it you can leave the wire loom in place in the short sliding part of the stator tube. However, if you are planning on removing the steering wheel to replace it, you must first draw the wires back through the short tube. This is easily done by first folding only twoof the eyelets tightly back against the wires, leaving the other two extending straight. This creates a “package” that is compact enough to slide through the tube. Next remove the circlip and pull the steering wheel off the shaft.

Trafficator Rebuild Image 20

Roger indicates that this “in-car” method will also work on non-adjustable steering set-ups (on 100s and those few 6-cylinder cars that are equipped as such). However, here the entire stator is drawn up after loosening the clamping nut. The steering box oil will drip out around the wires at the end during the time that the tube is partially withdrawn. As soon as the wires are freed, the tube can be re-inserted and the nut re-tightened. You’ll only lose a bit of the oil and it still beats reinserting the entire tube.

Roger suggests that if you do draw out the tube, use a 3/8″ bolt with a good 1″ or so of smooth shank to re-insert into the nut and olive at the steering box to keep most of the oil from draining out. This bolt is then removed when the tube and wires are put back through.

Happy Healeying and Cheers!

Lin Rose

1960 BT7

1959 Bugeye

July 7, 2005

Revised October 2, 2005

Click this link for a pdf of the trafficator rebuild: Trafficator Repairs Low Res

Assorted Interior Modifications

Posted on March 15, 2020 by valv8988

Original Interior

The original interior was medium red with black piping using leather and matching “leathercloth” vinyl. Carpet was also red and black armacord finished the boot interior. An adjustable plastic 16 1/2” steering wheel was standard.

Interior Modifications

Upholstery and Carpet

The interior finish materials were supplied by Heritage Trim. http://www.heritagetrim.com/. While somewhat expensive and not particularly fast on delivery, they provide a premium product with top grade materials. As the images show, I decided on black leather upholstery with red piping. Although I would have preferred a brighter red material for the piping, I was quite pleased with Heritage Trim.

Heritage also supplied the carpet, and while a material very close to the original is available, I decided to go with Wilton Wool which is a softer cut pile and to my view a more elegant look.

Heritage Interior

Steering Wheel

The Steering Wheel was replaced with a Moto-Lita wheel made of mahogany wood. It is ordered with a complimentary hub so that the original control head (trafficator) and horn button may be used.

Moto Lita Wheel

Fiberglass Gearbox Cover

Using a Toyota five speed gearbox required relocating the hole for the shifter in the gearbox cover from the original side mount to a center location. A fiberglass cover is available from http://www.britishcarspecialists.com/. The fiberglass cover is lighter, cooler as it does not conduct the heat like the original metal cover, and was easy to modify. I covered the gearbox cover with Dynamat Extreme and an additional layer of aluminum duct insulation to keep things cool.

Fiberglass Gearbox Cover

Interior Insulation

Anyone who has ever driven a stock Healey knows that the interior, particularly in the footwells, can get quite toasty but the combination of sealing firewall holes and installing modern insulation materials can virtually do away with the cockpit heat. I used Dynamat Extreme in the Bloody Beast and then installed a layer of aluminum backed foam duct insulation used in home HVAC systems on top of the Dynamat. All gaps between the pieces of insulation were covered with aluminum tape.

Dynamat Extreme

Aluminum Interior Insulation

Tilted Driver’s Seat

Big Healeys have reasonable legroom for those of us who are over six feet tall, but the designed seating arrangement places the driver very close to the steering wheel. One way to improve on the situation is to add spacers of varying lengths to the studs on the seat rails. The effect is to create a slight rearward tilt to the seat that then permits a little more arm extension for driving. I just picked up the extensions at the local hardware store.

Tilted Seat

Cup Holder

While I do not permit any beverages in the Bloody Beast other than water, the good ol’ American cup holder is a convenient accessory to the Healey interior. I borrowed the idea from Roger Conte – Ausmhly [email protected]. I used a Volkswagen Jetta cup holder #1J0 858 601D and mounted it under the parcel tray. Works like a charm and virtually hidden when not in use. This link will navigate you to the detail page on the cup holder: https://valvechatter.com/?p=3487

Cup Holder Empty

Alloy Pedal Covers

Just to dress up the pedals a bit and to provide an improved pedal surface, I installed alloy covers on the original pedals. My brake and clutch pedal covers were custom made and a gift from buddy Mick Nordquist, while the accelerator pedal came from Denis Welch Motorsport http://www.bighealey.co.uk/content/wider-accelerator-pedal.

Alloy Pedal Covers

Arm Rest/ Console

The padded arm rest provided as original equipment in the MK1 interior, while attractive in appearance, was pretty useless in that it was too low for one to actually rest an arm on the pad while driving. I decided to use the cushion as supplied by Heritage Trim to fabricate the top of a box or console to be installed on the gearbox/propshaft tunnel.

I began to form my idea for the console by fitting a cardboard shoebox to what I considered to be ideal dimensions, and then built a wooden box to provide some storage along with a fully functional arm rest. I encountered the need for lots of weird angles, but eventually got it all worked out and was very pleased with the outcome. After hinging the top, I covered the box in the wilton wool carpet and created something that appears original to the untrained eye. I could have permanently mounted the box to the tunnel but chose not to do so. This allows me to reposition the arm rest as desired.

Console Installed

Console Box

Console Interior

Console Box

Console Lid

Console Installed

Rear Luggage/Parcel Shelf

MKIII owners have a nice luggage shelf behind the front seats if they need more storage space, but MKI owners didn’t have that convenience. Inspired by my upcoming cross-country trip, I decided to bold my own. The shelf is completely removable, but alas, unlike the BJ8 owner, I cannot just fold my up and out of the way. In my case, I either travel with it, or without it. This is the link to assembly directions and more images: https://valvechatter.com/?p=3508

Luggage Shelf

Luggage/Parcel Shelf Image 6

Spare Tire Cover

While not technically the “interior,” I wanted to dress up the boot for appearance purposes nut also to protect clothes or other objects place in the boot that would have been exposed to a spare tire. I had a local upholstery shop sew a cover for me. I then cut a slot in the rear for the hold-down strap and I was in business. It makes for a much cleaner look in the boot.

Spare Tire Cover

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