Alfa Ownership & Maintenance Blog, 2022

Blog Posts:

6/27/2022 – DRIVER DOOR MAP POCKET REPAIR

6/13/2022 – DOOR CHECK STRAP REPLACEMENT

6/13/2022 – CHANGING THE TRANSMISSION OIL

6/10-11/2022 – EMERGENCY HOOD RELEASE & EMERGENCY TRUNK RELEASE

3/28/2022 – REPLACING THE CENTER MUFFLER

3/25/2022 – REPLACING WINDSHIELD WASHER HOSES

2/02/2022 – THROTTLE ROD END BREAK AND REPLACEMENT

1/21/2022 – DYEING ALFIE’S LEATHER WRAPPED STEERING WHEEL

1/18/2022 – REAR DIFFERENTIAL SEAL REPLACEMENT

JUNE 27, 2022

71,081 miles on the odometer

DRIVER DOOR MAP POCKET REPAIR

The map pocket door on the driver’s side of the car just flopped open and would not stay in the closed position. The image below of the passenger door shows how the map pocket door should align with its door card.

Passenger (RH) Side Map Pocket Door

After removing the door card, or panel, from the car and inspecting its reverse side it was obvious that the panel was missing two spring clips that hold the map pocket door closed as well as the plastic door bracket that prevents the door from pushing to far inward into the pocket. While this image is not from my car, it does highlight the missing components:

Missing Door Parts

I was able to locate the spring clips from Gerry Felice from the Alfa Bulletin Board. The “upper fork” is not available for the typical parts vendors. However, Kevin aka “Shaken” on the Alfa Bulletin Board has drawn piece and created a file that can be used to create as 3D printed part.

Shakey’s Door Packet Stop Bracket

The original bracket is black molded plastic. I sent the file to a company called Shapeways to have the piece printed. I did not specify black so it came to me in a natural white color, which is fine since the part is not visible.

Shapeways Printed Door Pocket Stop Bracket and Pad

The image below illustrates the two steel tabs that must be bent upward so that the spring clips can be positioned on the tab and under the plastic door pocket material. The tabs are then bent back down.

Door Pocket Spring retaining Tabs

This image shows the spring clips and door stop bracket in place with the retaining tabs bent back down:

Door Pocket Spring Clips and Stop Bracket in Place

The following video demonstrates the installation process and the finished product.

https://vimeo.com/725463131/92c92e842d

JUNE 15, 2022

71,081 miles on the odometer

DOOR CHECK STRAP REPLACEMENT

Based on the reports of the Alfa Bulletin Board contributors, I have been putting off the replacement of the door check straps. Almost universally those who have undertaken the job have indicated that is slow process involving some blood-letting. The straps are rubber coated metal strips. After 35 years the rubber is gone and only thin metal strips remain. Failure of the check strap could result in the door opening too far and denting the front fender.

So, after reviewing all of the bulletin board posts I could find I determined that it was time to dive in. The video found at the following link describes the process of removing and replacing the door panel as well as removing and replacing the check strap.

https://vimeo.com/725708633/a2af239c05

 

JUNE 13, 2022

71,081 miles on the odometer

CHANGING THE TRANSMISSION OIL

I have been experiencing some grinding of gears when trying to shift into reverse and first. It may be a synchronizer failure or my gear oil may be low or old. I decided that as a first step it would be prudent, and inexpensive, to change the oil. I first cleaned the area around the fill and drain plugs.

Alfa Transmission Fill and Drain Plugs

 I then loosened and removed the fill plug using a 12mm Allen key. I then loosened and removed the drain plug. I used a 7/8″ socket because I did not have the proper 22-23 mm socket. Almost two quarts of oil drained from the transmission.

Then using a syringe pump I filled the transmission with about 1 3/4 quarts of red line 75W 90 NS oil. Actually just fill until oil begins to drain out of the fill hole and then stop.

Red Line 75W90NS

I will now take the car for a test drive to see if the shifting in first and reverse have improved.

 

JUNE 10-11, 2022

71,074 miles on the odometer

EMERGENCY HOOD RELEASE

The Alfa uses cables to open the hood, trunk and gas filler door. If a cable breaks it is extremely difficult to access the engine compartment or the trunk. The gas filler door is not so much a problem as it can be accessed from the trunk interior. Experienced Alfa owners report on the Alfa Bulletin Board that they commonly install redundant systems to ensure that they can open the hood or trunk in case of a primary cable failure. I opted to install an emergency hood release cable in my 87 Quadrifoglio. 

The following link is for a video of the installation process: https://vimeo.com/719413337/f85441ad15

EMERGENCY TRUNK RELEASE

It is explained in the accompanying video, but once I started this project I discovered that a previous owner must have experienced a broken trunk cable because he/she had opted to drill a hole through the rear license mounting plate and body to be able to access the trunk lock latch with a screwdriver to get into the trunk. This eliminated the need for me to do anything else because I now know how to get into the trunk in the future should I encounter a problem!

The following link is for a video that depicts what I encountered: https://vimeo.com/719430011/c23e29753c

MARCH 28, 2022

71,022 miles on the odometer

REPLACING THE CENTER MUFFLER

It was suspected that the muffler might have some holes in it, because when driving the car it seemed to sound like there could be an exhaust leak. A new center muffler was ordered from Classic Alfa, and after painting with some high temp silver paint, the old muffler was removed and the new muffler was installed. A new “donut” seal was installed at the joint between the center muffler rear pipe and the rear muffler pipe. I had to order the gasket for the center muffler front pipe to the catalytic converter rear pipe fitting from Rock Auto. Some red high temperature Permatex sealant was used with the gasket. 

The following link is for a video of the muffler replacement process: https://vimeo.com/695260156/4989a3c31a

 

MARCH 25, 2022

71,010 miles on the odometer

REPLACING WINDSHIELD WASHER HOSES

The car developed a leak in the windshield washer system. To determine its source it was necessary to remove the scuttle panel between the windshield and the hood. The link below provides navigation to a video that illustrates the full repair that became a bit more involved than expected. For example, it was discovered the almost all of the plastic screw housings in the black plastic vent grille were broken. Fortunately, I was able to locate another used grille in good shape by calling the Alfa Parts Exchange.

This is a helpful document put together by one of the contributors to the ALFA Bulletin Board: cowl panel removal

The video narration describes replacing the washer system hoses with silicone hoses; however, I found these to be a little too large in diameter so I ended up using 4mm clear hose from Classic Alfa.

https://vimeo.com/693201098/00a0e1618c

 

 FEBRUARY 6, 2022

70,964 miles on the odometer

THROTTLE ROD END BREAK AND REPLACEMENT

It has been pretty chilly (by South Florida standards) the last few weeks. Yesterday was very nice so I took Alfie for a little ride with the top down. I was just humming along thinking how nice he was running when my accelerator pedal was suddenly “disconnected” and no longer affecting the throttle. Coasted to a stop and looked under the hood. Discovered that the lower end throttle link was no longer connected to the rod.

Following a Hagerty call I was towed back to the house. It turns out the rod ends are made of plastic and based on comments from the guys on the Alfa Bulletin Board, failure is not unusual. The lower rod end broke. I ordered and installed the metal variety of the rod ends from Centerline. No biggie, but way to ruin a pretty day!

Broken Plastic Throttle Rod End Link – Bottom

I took some measurements so that I could reinstall the rod in the same relationship as when it broke.

Rod End Measurements for Replacement

Cleaned Rod with New Metal Rod Ends

 

January 21, 2022

70,905 miles on the odometer

DYEING ALFIE’S LEATHER WRAPPED STEERING WHEEL

Thirty five years of use definitely shows on Alfie’s steering wheel. At some point I may well replace the leather wrapped wheel with a wood steering wheel, but in the meantime I think dyeing and feeding the leather might improve its current look. Indeed as the video shows below, the condition of the wheel was improved, albeit slightly.

https://vimeo.com/668992710/a626a35059

Steering Wheel after Dye

January 18, 2022

70,900 miles on the odometer

REAR DIFFERENTIAL SEAL REPLACEMENT 

Finishing the job of replacing the pinion seal in Alfie’s rear differential was delayed by about six weeks because I broke my leg! However, as of January 18, at least on a limited basis, I am back in the garage and  focused on getting the Alfa back on the road. In 2022, I am going to try something new. Rather than a heavy reliance on written explanation and photographs, I am going to try and my hand at video documentation perhaps supplemented with some photos.

So, on January 18 I gathered together the parts and materials I needed to complete the job and go to it. After removing the driveshaft in December I was able to clean and paint it and check that the universal joints were okay. They seemed to be so the driveshaft was ready to reinstall in the car. As noted previously and as will be seen in the video, a special socket is required for the removal and tightening of the pinion nut. As can be seen in the screen shot below taken from the service manual, the torque spec for the pinion nut has a fairly large range from 57.5 to 101.1 Ft Pb. At the recommendation of others I simply torqued the nut to 75 Ft Pb. At least in my case this seemed to work satisfactorily.

Rear Pinion Diagram with Torque specs

Prior to replacing the pinion seal the leak from the rear diff was considerable. I am pleased to report that following this bit of maintenance I have literally no oil dripping from the differential, so I will call this job a success and move on to the next project.

This is a link to my VIMEO video documenting the process: https://vimeo.com/668974379/42bb0d6a76

 

 

Assorted Interior Modifications

Original Interior

The original interior was medium red with black piping using leather and matching “leathercloth” vinyl. Carpet was also red and black armacord finished the boot interior. An adjustable plastic 16 1/2” steering wheel was standard.

Interior Modifications

Upholstery and Carpet

The interior finish materials were supplied by Heritage Trim. http://www.heritagetrim.com/. While somewhat expensive and not particularly fast on delivery, they provide a premium product with top grade materials. As the images show, I decided on black leather upholstery with red piping. Although I would have preferred a brighter red material for the piping, I was quite pleased with Heritage Trim.

Heritage also supplied the carpet, and while a material very close to the original is available, I decided to go with Wilton Wool which is a softer cut pile and to my view a more elegant look.

Heritage Interior

Heritage Interior

 Steering Wheel

The Steering Wheel was replaced with a Moto-Lita wheel made of mahogany wood. It is ordered with a complimentary hub so that the original control head (trafficator) and horn button may be used.

Moto Lita Wheel

Moto Lita Wheel

 Fiberglass Gearbox Cover

Using a Toyota five speed gearbox required relocating the hole for the shifter in the gearbox cover from the original side mount to a center location. A fiberglass cover is available from http://www.britishcarspecialists.com/. The fiberglass cover is lighter, cooler as it does not conduct the heat like the original metal cover, and was easy to modify. I covered the gearbox cover with Dynamat Extreme and an additional layer of aluminum duct insulation to keep things cool.

Fiberglass Gearbox Cover

Fiberglass Gearbox Cover

Interior Insulation

Anyone who has ever driven a stock Healey knows that the interior, particularly in the footwells, can get quite toasty but the combination of sealing firewall holes and installing modern insulation materials can virtually do away with the cockpit heat. I used Dynamat Extreme in the Bloody Beast and then installed a layer of aluminum backed foam duct insulation used in home HVAC systems on top of the Dynamat. All gaps between the pieces of insulation were covered with aluminum tape.

Dynamat Extreme

Dynamat Extreme

Interior Insulation

Aluminum Interior Insulation

Tilted Driver’s Seat

Big Healeys have reasonable legroom for those of us who are over six feet tall, but the designed seating arrangement places the driver very close to the steering wheel. One way to improve on the situation is to add spacers of varying lengths to the studs on the seat rails. The effect is to create a slight rearward tilt to the seat that then permits a little more arm extension for driving. I just picked up the extensions at the local hardware store.

Tilt Seat

Tilted Seat

Cup Holder

While I do not permit any beverages in the Bloody Beast other than water, the good ol’ American cup holder is a convenient accessory to the Healey interior. I borrowed the idea from Roger Conte – Ausmhly [email protected]. I used a Volkswagen Jetta cup holder #1J0 858 601D and mounted it under the parcel tray. Works like a charm and virtually hidden when not in use. This link will navigate you to the detail page on the cup holder: https://valvechatter.com/?p=3487

Cup Holder Empty

Cup Holder Empty

Alloy Pedal Covers

Just to dress up the pedals a bit and to provide an improved pedal surface, I installed alloy covers on the original pedals. My brake and clutch pedal covers were custom made and a gift from buddy Mick Nordquist, while the accelerator pedal came from Denis Welch Motorsport http://www.bighealey.co.uk/content/wider-accelerator-pedal.

Alloy Pedal Covers

Alloy Pedal Covers

Arm Rest/ Console

The padded arm rest provided as original equipment in the MK1 interior, while attractive in appearance, was pretty useless in that it was too low for one to actually rest an arm on the pad while driving. I decided to use the cushion as supplied by Heritage Trim to fabricate the top of a box or console to be installed on the gearbox/propshaft tunnel.

I began to form my idea for the console by fitting a cardboard shoebox to what I considered to be ideal dimensions, and then built a wooden box to provide some storage along with a fully functional arm rest. I encountered the need for lots of weird angles, but eventually got it all worked out and was very pleased with the outcome. After hinging the top, I covered the box in the wilton wool carpet and created something that appears original to the untrained eye. I could have permanently mounted the box to the tunnel but chose not to do so. This allows me to reposition the arm rest as desired.

Console Installed

Console Installed

Console Box

Console Box

Console Box

Console Box

Console Interior

Console Interior

Console Box

Console Box

Console Lid

Console Lid

Console Installed

Console Installed

Rear Luggage/Parcel Shelf

MKIII owners have a nice luggage shelf behind the front seats if they need more storage space, but MKI owners didn’t have that convenience. Inspired by my upcoming cross-country trip, I decided to bold my own. The shelf is completely removable, but alas, unlike the BJ8 owner, I cannot just fold my up and out of the way. In my case, I either travel with it, or without it. This is the link to assembly directions and more images: https://valvechatter.com/?p=3508

Luggage Shelf

Luggage Shelf

Luggage Shelf

Luggage Shelf

Luggage Shelf

Luggage Shelf

Luggage Shelf

Luggage Shelf

Luggage/Parcel Shelf Image 6

Luggage/Parcel Shelf Image 6

Spare Tire Cover

While not technically the “interior,” I wanted to dress up the boot for appearance purposes nut also to protect clothes or other objects place in the boot that would have been exposed to a spare tire. I had a local upholstery shop sew a cover for me. I then cut a slot in the rear for the hold-down strap and I was in business. It makes for a much cleaner look in the boot.

Spare Tire Cover

Spare Tire Cover

Steering Wheel

Steering Wheel

 

This is a diagram showing steering column components.

Steering Wheel Assembly

Steering Wheel Assembly

The disassembly procedure I followed is outlined below:

First I removed four slotted set screws from behind the steering wheel this enables the horn ring cover to be removed along with the horn push and return spring.

Horn Ring Assembly

Horn Ring Assembly

The horn ring assembly is held in place by three small nylock nuts (#6?) on studs. These nuts were removed and behind each nut was a nylon shouldered washer. The horn ring assembly is spring loaded so when the third nut is removed one needs to be careful not to lose the springs behind the assembly. After the three nuts and washers are loosened the horn ring can be lifted away.

Horn Assembly Springs on Studs

Horn Assembly Springs on Studs

This reveals springs on two of the studs and a mounting plate held in place by three cheesehead machine screws. The springs were set aside and the three screws and slit washers were removed allowing the subsequent removal of the mounting plate with its three studs.

Horn Assembly Mounting Plate

Horn Assembly Mounting Plate

This revealed the horn button wire which contains the contact button, a spring, a small flat washer and a circlip holding the assembly together. a tubular black insulation piece is behind the wire assembly and slips into the shaft. It is NOT necessary to disassemble this horn contact wire in order to remove the steering wheel.

Horn Electrical Contact Wire, Retaining Clip, Washer and Spring

Horn Electrical Contact Wire, Retaining Clip, Washer and Spring

Also revealed was a locking Palnut on the steering shaft that was removed with a  15/16″ socket.

Steering Palnut on Shaft

Steering Palnut on Shaft

Steering Palnut Removed

Steering Palnut Removed

After removing the Palnut, the nut and special washer securing the steering wheel to the inner column shaft can be seen and removed. A 1  1/16″ socket was used.  The steering wheel could be then be removed from the shaft.

Steering Shaft Nut with Special flat washer

Steering Shaft Nut with Special flat washer

Steering Shaft Cone for Seating the steering wheel on the Shaft

Steering Shaft Cone for Seating the steering wheel on the Shaft

Care must be taken to not lose the two-piece split cone that seats the steering wheel on the shaft. These are revealed following removal of the steering wheel.

A Functioning Horn

The Horns

The horn had not worked in the Bugeye since we bought it – not very safe since the bugeye is one of the smallest things on the road. It was time to fix it. The horn itself when tested sounded very weak so I ordered a Hella twin tone horn kit. It came with mounting brackets and a relay for the price of $23.00!

Hella twin note horns

Hella Twin Note Horns

Horn wiring diagram

Horn Wiring Diagram

My horn button is a little different from the original since I have a Moto-Lita wheel, but I ordered a new push pin for it – the 948 Bugeye variety. The pin needs to go into the wheel with the plastic end toward the dash so that the pin is insulated from the body of the aluminum wheel hub. Then the brass sprung pick up on the back of the horn button needs to line up with the pin. The entire assembly then pushes into the wheel hub. A brown wire from the brass contact ring on the dash cone runs to the horn relay.

Horn Button Contact

Horn Button Contact

Steering Hub and Push Pin

Steering Hub and Push Pin

I decided to mount both of the horns on the right front lower side of the frame. That way it was not necessary to run wiring across the frame below the radiator. On one horn I used the original mounting bracket, and on the other I used the supplied brackets and drilled two holes into the fresh air hose mounting assembly. I mounted the relay just above the horns.

Hella Horns Mounting Location

Hella Horns Mounting Location

Horn Relay Mount

Horn Relay Mount

The wiring diagram provided on the box of the horn was helpful. I provided a separate ground wire for each horn. The brown ground wire from the wheel  was connected to terminal #85 on the relay. The green wire form the fuse panel was connected to terminal #86. A red wire was used to connect terminal #87 on the relay to the positive terminal on each horn. This required putting a twin bullet connecter on the wire from the relay to splice a second wire to go the 2nd horn. Finally, a blue wire was run from the non-switched side of the fuse block to the relay terminal #30 to complete the circuit.

The horn now works great! It sounds like the biggest car on the road.

The Rear View Mirror

The rear view mirror in the Bugeye wasn’t the original and it looked a little worse for wear so I replaced it with a new one from Moss. It wasn’t easy to get to the mounting screws because of the rake of the windscreen, so I bent a screw driver with a torch to make a tool that would do the trick. Worked like a charm!

New Rear View Mirror

New Rear View Mirror

New Tool

New Tool

Flashlight

We used to carry a magnetic mounting flashlight under the cowl, but it never stayed very well. We picked up a mounting bracket for a light at VIR and I finally got around to installing it in the car. I selected the left rear mudguard as the location.

Flashlight Mounting

Flashlight Mounting