Tag Archives: striker pin assembly

Chapter 87 Week Fifty-Seven January 14, 2008

Posted on by

The windscreen was a very tight fit! I suppose that it should be to minimize leaks, but it took some tugging on a drift through one of the lower mounting holes in the stanchion and a lot of pushing to finally get the uppermost capscrew to thread into place. The RH side didn’t require any shimming, but the LH did. You do want to make sure that there is no undue force on the stanchions or you might end up with a broken glass! I added a little 3M caulk strip under the post pad seals and between the windscreen frame seal and the post pad. I decided to run the seal under the post pad, though consulting with the “experts” resulted in at least three ways to do this job: under the pad, between the pad and the post, and cut off flush with the pad. I am using post mounted driving mirrors from Cape International, so they were mounted at this time and tightened through the posts.

Windscreen and wipers installed

Capesport Mirrors

After finishing the windscreen, I fixed the original “rainbow” wipers with new rubber to the wiper posts and following the addition of some windscreen washer fluid to the parcel tray mounted fluid reservoirtried out the wipers. All worked fine, including the intermittent wiper rheostatand electric washer pump I has installed previously. The kit from Ed Esslinger also turns on the headlamps when the wipers are activated – a requirement in many states now. 

Next was the installation of the bonnet. I first removed the striker pin assembly so that I could have the bonnet lie flat in the surround. Four 1/4” bolts with the heads to the outside are used to fasten the hinges to the bonnet hinge brackets. This process took some adjusting to get things right and at least one assistant is essential! After getting the bonnet lined up I re-secured the striker pin assembly to the bonnet and adjusted it and the bonnet latch support bracket to align all. The anti-rattle spring was then connected to the hood latch remote control rod and the bonnet release mechanism was tried with success.

Bonnet Latch Assembly

Strike Pin Assembly

Bonnet down

Bonnet Up

 

Chapter 73 Week Forty-Three October 8, 2007

Posted on by

I returned from Europe with a renewed commitment to get the Healey completely finished by Christmas. With help from my wife, I pulled the engine. The Smitty bell housing was removed from the backplate and refitted to the Toyota gearbox. I used Copaslip on the fulcrum pin and arm as well as the shaft on which the throw out bearing rides. The assembled bell housing and gearbox was then bolted to the rear of the engine. Dowel bolts at 11:00 and 5:00 o’clock.

Again with help, the engine/gearbox was installed in the car.

Engine going in

Engine Installers

Engine Installers 2

Engine installed

Engine installed 2

Just as a change of pace, I installed some small trim pieces to body components. The striker pin assembly was put together and then mounted on the inside of the bonnet.

Striker Pin Assembly 1

Striker Pin Assembly 2

The stainless steel screens were fixed to the custom brackets made for the oil cooler vents. I purchased the steel mesh screen from Pegasus Racing.

Oil Cooler Vent Screens 1

Oil Cooler Vent Measurements

Next was the bonnet grill. The key with this grill is to not overtighten and dimple the brow. I used some leather padding from British Car Specialist between the components. This was followed by the installation of the chrome flashes or spears on the front wings.

Bonnet Grill

I decided to finish the two striker bonnet safety catches in clear zinc rather than paint them since the paint is scratched off of just about every car I have seen. I installed both of these with a loose fit so that they could be adjusted later.

Striker Hood Safety Catch

Next was the bonnet prop rod andrubber catch. As with the boot lid prop rod, I elected to use a stainless steel version custom made by Wicker’s Body and Paint Shop, Inc. (Unfortunately, no longer in business)

Bonnet prop Rod 1

Bonnet prop Rod 3