Exterior Lights

Posted on March 3, 2016 by valv8988

Headlamps

Headlamp Schematic

Cars exported to the USA all had sealed beam headlights.

Headlamp

Mounting and Adjusting Screws

Four #10 – 32 x 1/2″ slotted cheese head screws with flat and shakeproof washers fasten the lamp assembly to the car’s body. The rubber seal is located between the body and the lamp bowl. Their location is shown in the Lamp Diagram.

Headlamp Complete

Headlamp Bowl

Headlamp Seal

Two special trimmer screws are used to adjust the bulb setting. These are located at roughly 9 o’clock and 1 o’clock as seen in the diagram.

Trimmer Screws

A chrome #8 slotted self tapping screw is removed from the spire nut at the bottom of the lamp to free the outer chrome trim ring.

Spire Nut

Three #6 phillips head screws fasten together the chrome retaining ring and the galvanized unit seating rim . These screws are located at 11, 7, and 2 o’clock. They align with the oblong holes in the lamp bowl.

Headlamp Rims

The seating rim is held to the bowl with a Spring, Fixing Unit Seating Rim.

The bulb adaptor wiring sits behind the bulb and its wiring feeds through the rubber seal in the back of the bucket. New plug adapters were sourced from British Wiring and all the wiring was replaced with new.

Sealed Beam Unit Adaptor and Bulb Retaining Spring

Headlamp Buckets Ready to Paint

Painted Headlamp Bucket

Dust Excluder behind headlight Outer Rim and Headlamp Body Gasket

I decided to upgrade the lighting from the original sealed beams and ordered the halogen kit available from SNG Barratt. The Hella lamp number is 1A6 002.395-031 and the bulb is Autolamps Halogen, 472 12V 60/55W P43T. Generating a 5amp requirement per bulb.

Hella Halogen Headlamps

Headlamp Outer Rim

I had the original headlamp rims rechromed and they look great! These images show the headlights installed temporarily for electric circuit testing. They are not adjusted for focal point.

Headlight Dust Excluder in Place

Headlight Installed with Newly Chromed Trim Ring

Front Flasher Lamp

The front flasher lamps consist of a chrome rim, a clear lens, lens retaining wires, a lens seating gasket, a bulb holder and seating plate, the terminal sleeve, a 21 watt bulb (C.9126), and a rubber body.

Front Flasher Lamp

My original seating plates were in good shape; however, I replaced the lens, retaining wires, lens seating gasket, chrome rim, and rubber body with new items.

New Assembled Front Flashers

Seating Plate

Seating Plates

Rubber Boot

I also disassembled the wiring terminal in the fixture and installed new wiring in the lamp. When assembled to the car, the three machine screws securing the rubber boot to the car body should not be over-tightened as this makes snapping on the chrome lens surround almost impossible! New LED flasher bulbs “382Flashers” were sourced from 4Sight Automotive and installed as substitutes for the original incandescent bulbs.

Original 21 Watt Bulb with New LED

Turn Signal Flasher with LED Installed

I added all new sleeving for the wiring of all of the lamps in the car.

More information about the wiring for the flasher lamps may be found at the Building a New Wiring Harness post.

Front Flasher Turn signal

Tail Lights

MK2 Tail Light

The tail light is comprised of two lens halves. These halves are held together by a chrome clip, between the flasher and the stop/tail lens. A chrome shield also separates the two halves to prevent light bleed from one lens to the other. A metal mounting plate also holds the halves together and serves as the base for the assembly to the chrome plinth. The mounting plate is secured to the plastic lens with six 3/8″ self-tapping screws. A rubber gasket then seals the unit to the plinth. The lens assembly is secured to the plinth with a top clip on the metal mounting plate and with a chrome machine screw at the bottom.

I was able to use the original metal mounting plates and screws, but purchased new lenses, the chrome clips, the shields, and rubber gaskets.

Taillight with Shield

Tail Light Assembled

Tail Light Parts

I had the two rear tail light plinths rechromed as they were pitted badly. I still need to install the reflectors and then the lights will look quite good. Each light assembly fastens to the body with two screws. The lower is a Whitworth fillister screw 1 1/4″ long and it fastens to a captive nut in the body. The upper mount is a stud in the assembly that goes through a mounting hole in the body and then has a washer and nut on the interior side. The original upper bulb is an 1156 and the lower bulb is an 1157. However, as with the other exterior lights, these bulbs were replaced with LED flasher bulbs “382Flashers” and “380HP LED stop & tail light bulbs” sourced from 4Sight Automotive . I was able to use the original wiring leads.

Tail Light Assemblies New Chrome Missing Reflectors

Tail Lights Assembled with Lucas Reflectors

Tail Light LED Bulbs

Lucas FogRanger Fog Lamps

The original FogRanger lamps were functional and certainly reusable, but they are such a visible component of the front-end appearance of the MK2, that I decided to purchase new lamps. The embellishers were in good shape, so I was able to clean, polish and assemble with the new lamps. All new wiring was used and while I did not use LED bulbs for the Fograngers, I did install new Autolamps 12 volt, 48 Watt bulbs in both lamps, sourced from SNG Barratt.

Fogranger Bulb 12V 48W SNG Barratt

Fogranger Fog Lamp

FogRanger Lamp Assemblies

Fog Lamp Embellisher

This is an image of the RH Fogranger lamp temporarily installed on the car. As with the headlights, the fograngers are not adjusted for proper angles at this point. This installations was merely to test electric circuits and switches.

RH Fogranger Installed

Side Lamps

The MK2 has small side lamps on the top of each front wing. Each lamp has a rubber “O” Ring Gasket between the chrome trim ring and the body of the car, and the lamps are secured to the body with a chrome machine screw. The lamps use 4 watt bulbs C. 12249.

RH Turn Indicator

The lamps were in good working order so I just cleaned them, rewired them, replaced the incandescent bulbs with LEDs and new “O” Rings with new chrome mounting screws. The “O” rings that came with that were sourced from SNG Barratt were too thick for my installation. I ended up using metric rings that are 24mm – 2mm and I purchased them from McMaster-Carr. The screws are oval head #6-40 (I believe) x 3/4″.

Sidelamp

A small red indicator lens for side lamps mounts on the top of each body wing flare for the lights. I ordered new plastic indicators that are held in place by a metal slide clip.

Side Lamps

New LED Bayonet Bulbs

Side Lamp on Body

All new wiring and sleeving was added to the side lamps.

RH Side Lamp Wiring & Sleeving

The side lamp is removed from the body by turning the rim clockwise and then withdrawing the lamp. A “bump” in the lamp body must align with a slot in the body.

Sidelamp Fitting

Refurbished side lamps installed

Number plate illumination and reverse lamp

Number Plate Illumination & Reverse Lamp

The chrome housing is mounted to the body with a plastic gasket between the two. Within the housing is a plastic shroud assembly and a metal bulb holder. There are three 6 watt bulbs (C.12249) to illuminate the number plate and luggage compartment, I replaced these with “233 Multi LEDs” sourced from 4Sight Automotive. The one 21 watt bulb (C.9126) for the reverse light was replaced with a “382 High Power LED. There is a bulb shield gasket and a gasket between the shroud and the clear glass lens.

233 Multi LEDs to replace 12v 6w incandescent in boot lamp

382 reversing LED in boot lamp

I was able to clean and reuse all of the components with the exception of the rubber gaskets within the lamp which were replaced with new items. The original seal between the lamp and the body was cleaned and renewed. The lamp was rechromed.

Although the wiring harness was in good condition, I replaced it with new wiring.

Boot Lamp with new wiring harness

Gaskets and Seals

Shroud and Lens

Bonnet Catch/Latch

Posted on February 6, 2016 by valv8988

Bonnet Catch/Latch

Control Wire, Complete, Operating Bonnet Lock

My original control wire plastic cable casing was in pretty bad shape so I replaced it with a new one from SNG Barratt. It is very close to the original although the cable casing did have to be trimmed a few inches. I cleaned up the components including the adjuster, for bonnet lock control; the Abutment, for cable adjuster; the plain washer, the shakeproof washer under the nut, and the 1/4″ -28 nut. These items were then zinc plated. This is an image of the components after plating:

Bonnet Lock Control Wire Abutment and Adjuster

Bonnet Catch Plate, Striker Plate, Base Plate, Bonnet Latch and Return Spring

These components of the bonnet catch assembly were cleaned and zinc plated. Two spacing bushes fitted between the catch and latch were also cleaned.

New Zinc Finish Bonnet Catch Components

These are the assembled components:

Assembled Bonnet Catch

Bonnet Catch

This is what the assembly looks like when mounted to the vehicle:

Bonnet Catch/Release Assembly

This image shows the bonnet release remote control cable pull knob mounted below the RH side of the dash. Not very convenient for the LH drive American market!

Remote Control Bonnet Release Cable Knob under dash

This view of the RH side of the engine bay valence shows the routing of the remote control cable to the front of the car.

Remote Control Bonnet Release Cable on Valance

I chromed the the safety latch that is attached to the Bonnet because the paint never seems to hold up on these items.

The spring and rod that hold the safety latch to its mount were cleaned and zinc plated.

New Zinc Finish Bonnet Latch Components

Classic Technologies Relay/Fuse Panel

Posted on December 1, 2015 by valv8988

Wiring System Upgrade

The Fuse/Relay Panel

The heart of the original Jaguar MK2 electrical system was a fuse panel assembly located on the LH engine bay valance under the bonnet. The fuse panel bracket assembly houses the RB310 Voltage Control Box (Regulator), the Fuse Box unit, and the Horn Relay. It has a metal top protecting the internal components which is secured by a knurled chrome thumb screw or knob. My panel was pretty rusty but cleaned up nicely with media blasting and was then powder coated black.

Today it is hard to imagine that the fusing of the entire electrical system of the car was handled by two fuses!

Fuse Unit

I am upgrading the electrical system and will be using an alternator with an internal regulator to replace the dynamo or generator. This action will eliminate the need for the voltage control box. I will use a modern Bosch automotive relay for the horns which will eliminate the need for the original Lucas horn relay. Finally, I am upgrading from the original Model SF6 fuse unit with the two glass fuses of 35 amps and 50 amps to a modern fuse/relay panel supplied by Marc Goldblatt, owner of Classic Technologies. http://www.classic-technologies.com I will be able to utilize the base of the original fuse panel bracket assembly with Marc’s fuse/relay panel and will therefore keep the fuse connections at the same location as original to the car. Marc’s panel can be mounted horizontally or vertically and I will not make a final decision on the orientation until I have the engine in place for trial fitting.

This is a link to a short video that Marc Goldblatt made about his product.

The Classic Technologies fuse/relay panel provides for 15 fused circuits with 34 pin connectors, 7 relays including horn, ignition power, fog lights, high beams and low beams headlights, starter and accessory power and 2 flashers for the turn signals and hazard lights. I selected the optional relays for LED lights.

Classic Technologies Relay Fuse Panel

The new harness is simplified and made up of discrete runs from the fuse box to the switch or accessory. The enclosure for the fuse box is 16 gauge steel with a powder coated finish that is silk screened for easy identification of the fuses, relays and terminations. The Classic Technologies panel is only 6 3/4″ (171mm) long X 4 5/8″ (81mm) wide X 2 3/16″ (56mm) tall. The lug-less terminations into unpluggable connectors are another nice feature making the installation of the panel easy and convenient.

A poster size color schematic was provided along with a clear instruction manual to guide hobbyists like myself through the installation. Marc will provide additional support if needed.

This is the original assembly:

Bracket Assembly, Mounting Horn Realy, Fuse and Control Boxes

Although the Classic Technologies Box is more often seen mounted under the bonnet somewhere, I have elected to mount it under the dash on the RH side of the interior. This will require some modification of the fiberboard panel under the dash but that should be accomplished with little problem. My installation looks like this:

Mounting of the Classic Technologies Fuse Panel

I will still use the base of the original fuse panel bracket assembly in its original location on the LH valance in the engine bay. Three Barrier terminal blocks used to make connections for lights, horns and etc., will be mounted on the LH valance and the base of the fuse bracket will be used to cover and protect the terminal blocks and wiring. On the top of the base I will be mounting fuses and connectors associated with the alternator, and power steering. I will then fabricate a new cover for the base that will shield the entire base not just 2/3 of it as was done originally. This is the powder coated mounting bracket assembly:

Powder Coated Fuse Panel Bracket Assembly

Fuse/Relay Panel Design Theory

The 15 fuses are broken up into three groups:

1. Constant Power: Fuses F1 through F4, F8, and F15. These fuses are tied to the battery + terminal (B+). Examples: Dome Lights, Parking Lights, Hazard Flashers, and Horn. These features have power regardless of ignition switch position.

2. Ignition Power: Fuses F5, F6, and F7. These are items that are critical to starting the car that should have power while the car is being started. Examples: Coil, Alternator excitation, Fuel Pump, Gauges/Warning Lights, brake lights.

3. Accessory Power: Fuses F 9 through F14. These are items that are not critical to starting the car and should not have power while starting the car to maximize power to the starter. Additionally, in order to prevent battery drain, these items should not have power when the keys are removed from the ignition. Examples: wipers, heater motor, turn signals, overdrive, radiator fan, radio, reverse lights…

New Wiring System Requirements

In addition to the gauges, switches, and components typical of the MK2 that the Classic Technologies Fuse/Relay Panel would manage, the modifications to my car will necessitate individualizing the wiring schematic that Marc provides with his panel kit.

I will need to add circuitry for the following features:

Air Conditioning

My car was not air conditioned originally. I am installing an after-market kit produced and sold by Rock Browning of RetroAir, Inc. As I see it, the kit has the following electrical components that will need to be incorporated into the new wiring diagram.

SPAL 12” Electric Radiator Fan – 5.3 amps
Water temp sender to cut fan on/off Circuit breaker
Fan relay
Trinary switch
Compressor relay
SPAL 3 speed Blower Fan to circulate air – 16 amps max
Control panel switches – 3 speed fan switch, temperature switch

Power Steering Pump

My car did not have power steering originally although it was an option at the time. I have installed rack and pinion from a later Jaguar that uses an electric power steering pump. The vendor, M&C Wilkinson reported “The power steering pump uses approximately 40 amps at maximum draw which is slow speed/full lock.”The vendor also supplied an 80 amp fuse and a connector block.

Upgraded Wiper System

I am using a more recent Jaguar wiper motor and a modified wiper switch all purchased from Classic Motor Cars in England. I understand the amperage requirement to be 6 amps.

Power Front Seats

I am using seats from a later Jaguar (1990 Daimler XJ40). Although the seats have heaters, memory and a few other gadgets such as a seat belt alarm, I intend to only use the seat motion adjustments (four switches for each seat that will be mounted on the central console), and the lamps on the rear of the front seat headrests. The back of the seats have folding “picnic” tables.
Looks like the seats require 5 amps (7.5 max) each. Each seat needs a relay.

Sound System Amplification

Specifications for the amplifier have yet to be determined, but I anticipate perhaps a 300 watt amplifier requiring approximately 25 amps.

Accessory Power Outlets

Redundant Fuel Pump

Third Brake Light

Back-up Camera

Headlight Warning Chime

British Wiring Codes

I plan to stick with British Wiring Codes wherever possible in the rewiring of the MK2.

Mike McPhail, the president of the South Texas Austin-Healey Club, published an article in the July, 2010 issue of Regional Rumblings, the Club’s newsletter that provided an excellent color coded summary of Lucas wiring that will surely prove helpful with the Jaguar as well.

Lucas Wiring Color Codes

Radiomobile Radio, Aerial and Housing

Posted on June 28, 2015 by valv8988

Radiomobile Radio Housing and Aerial

Radiomobile Aerial

The aerial height on my Mk2 was controlled by a hand crank and cables. The hand crank was located below the steering wheel through the finisher panel. I was going to forgo the use of the aerial since my aerial was broken, but Robert Seligman (also restoring a 64 MK2) and John Stefanik (professional restorer and metal man extraordinaire) reproduced the Radiomobile crank mechanism and replacement aerial masts. Consequently, I am excited to be able to use the mechanism as originally installed! I am indebted to Bob and John for their talent, creativity and persistence.

George Camp sent photos of the correct fitting so that I might try to get my assembly close to the original.

Aerial Mast Fitting

Radiomobile handcrank Aerial

John was able to source new cables and now has my assembly in working condition.

Bob Seligman was somehow able to find a rubber grommet with a five degree offset that will work on the MK2. It is a little smaller than the original, but I am happy to find a grommet that will work!

The antenna mast is mounted inside the LH kick panel radio speaker opening. It is a little hard to see, but if one enlarges this image you can see the bracket inside the void between the LH wing and the inner body. The base of the antenna mounts on the bracket and the mast exits out the hole in the body.

Radiomobile antenna mounting bracket

These are directions for the installation of the radio, aerial and speakers. The directions, presumably prepared for RH drive cars shows that the antenna and the rotating controller are to be located on the RH side of the car. Several MK2 owners have reported that their controller is mounted on the RH side; however, my antenna and controller are located on the LH side of the car. The controller is mounted under and to the left of the steering wheel. This seems like a much more practical location for a LH drive vehicle.

Radiomobile antenna mast rotary controller

Radiomobile antenna mast rotary controller under panel

Radiomobile Installation Instructions

Additional instructions are provided on page 21 in this little book:

practical-car-radio-handbook

Radio Control/Finisher Panel

The Radiomobile radio is housed in the Finisher or Control Panel Above Tunnel. The radio as set up was for positive ground, but apparently there is a switch inside the unit that will permit it to be transformed into a negative ground unit. A set of thirty-nine detailed images are available at this Flickr link:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/valve-chatter/sets/72157632437770125/

The Finisher or Control Panel also includes the lever controls for the “Hot” and “Cold” air settings as well as the “Car” and “Screen” settings.

Front Finisher Panel Assembly Above Gearbox Tunnel with Radio

A single speaker is housed above the radio behind a chrome speaker grille.

Speaker Mounting Above Radio

Heater Controls Air control levers are located on either side of the radio and are operated by cables from the Heater Box. Additional information about the heater control levers is available under the “Heater” posts.

Lever Assemblies for Hot and Cold and Car and Screen Controls

Lever Assembly

Knob on Heater Control

Lever Assemblies

The Panel is covered in vinyl which was removed and saved to use as a pattern later. The panel was then media blasted and set aside. No decisions have been made as of yet regarding the sound/navigation system that will be installed, but it is likely to require modifications to the sheet metal of the panel.

Panel Vinyl

Vinyl Removed

Finisher Panel Cleaned

Radio Control Unit Support Brackets Two support brackets that connect the top of the control panel to the radio unit were cleaned, media blasted, primed and painted.

Radio Control Unit Support Brackets

The Radiomobile Radio

My 1964 MK2 had a Radiomobile radio in it when I purchased it. Apparently it was installed by the dealer at the time of delivery but I cannot be sure. I do have the original Smiths Radiomobile Car Operating Instructions and the original Smiths Radiomobile Guarantee Registration Card. While the card has the radio model number on it the card was never completed and sent back to S. Smith and Sons (Radiomobile) Ltd.

Smiths Radiomobile Car Radio Operating Instructions

Smiths Radiomobile Guarantee Registration Card

My radio did not function and it was also positive ground. I wanted to upgrade the sound system in the car, but wanted to try to retain the original look of the original radio. After some internet searching I came upon Retro Radio Restoration owned and operated by Mike and Chris Frenchek in Elizabethtown, PA. http://www.retroradio.biz/index.html

Mike will restore you original unit or he will convert your radio to add power and features while retaining the look and many of the functions of the original radio. I chose to convert my Radiomobile. The process takes about six months so you cannot do this if you are in a hurry!

In the conversion process the original electronics were replaced with a new high power digital stereo receiver designed to work with the original mechanical tuner and controls. Switching between AM and FM bands is accomplished by quickly turning the radio off and then back on again. Pushbuttons can be set for AM and FM stations using the same method that was used originally. Four BTL amplifiers capable of delivering 45 watts RMS each provide 180 watts RMS maximum output power. (14.4 volts, 4 ohm load, 1kHz.

I chose to have my unit configured for four speakers and all radios are equipped with RCA inputs and the necessary control lines to plug into a CD player or a satellite radio. I also added optional blue tooth, a USB port, and line outs for a subwoofer and an additional external amplifier. I have yet to determine if I will use a subwoofer or and additional amplifier, but I am ready if I choose to do so.

I just received my radio from Mike and my first impression is very positive. He tested the unit and said that it sounded great, but I have not yet tested it myself. I still need to determine what speakers I will use. I polished the knobs and push buttons and it all looks quite good. I have some scaling on the chrome casing of the radio and I may have the face rechromed. An aluminum face plate is used to mount the radio to the finisher panel and that is a shame because the chrome face of the radio actually looks better than the aluminum face plate!

These are a few images of the radio as it was received from Mike. It will be put away for now but I look forward to coming back to it a little later in the restoration project.

Radiomobile Conversion with Mounting faceplate

Radiomobile Conversion with new ports

Radiomobile Conversion Casing Blasted and Painted

These are the directions for the operation of the converted radio:

Rose Radiomobile Conversion Directions

Rose Radiomobile Bluetooth USB Instructions

Body Panels and Trim

Posted on May 20, 2015 by valv8988

Body Panels and Trim

Cover and Blanking Plates

Of course, there are many large and small components that comprise the finished body of the MK2. The clean-up and preparation of the body and its primary parts is addressed in the “Body Prep” post. However, I have also begun to prepare some of the smaller components such as the covers or blanking plates for the firewall and under-dash interior of the car. The Jag was assembled for home and foreign markets so holes were located in the body superstructure to accommodate either LH or RH steering. Blanking plates were fastened over the holes not used. For example, the image below shows the Cover Plate Over Steering Column Cut-out on Centre Dash as well as the Headlamp Dipper Switch Blanking Plate. The Cover Plate for the Steering Column is pop riveted to the body from the interior side of the firewall, while the Dipper Switch Plate is secured from the engine side of the firewall with two #10″- 32 x 1/2″ hex head bolts, nuts and shakeproof washers. The nuts are located on the engine side of the firewall with bolt heads on the interior side. The image shows socket bolts, but they will be replaced.

Steering Wheel Shaft & Dip Switch Blanking Plates

In early July, 2014 I began trial fitting many components. This was motivated by the trial installation of the RetroAir air conditioning kit. The dip switch blanking plate hardly required trial fitting, but you have to start somewhere. I did not trial fit the Steering Wheel Blanking plate since it required riveting to install and I did not want to drill out the rivets again.

Dip Switch Blanking Plate Trial Fitting

Dip Switch Blanking Plate Trial Fitting – Interior View

I made a closed cell foam gasket for the steering column blanking plate and installed it in the firewall/floor with screws temporarily. I will rivet it to the firewall/floor after the body is painted.

Foam gasket for Steering column blanking plate

The Cover Plate Over Pedal Mounting Cut-out on Centre Dash

I will not be using the Cover Plate since I am air conditioning my car and the Blower mounts in this location with a new face plate.

The cover plate uses the same gasket as used on the master cylinder housing. It is secured to the firewall with four 1/4″ – 28 x 1/2″ hex head bolts with plane and shakeproof washers and 1/4″ -28 nuts.

Cover Plate Over Pedal Mounting Cut-out on Centre Dash

Striker Plate for Bonnet Catch

I media blasted the striker plate and will have it zinc plated. Not sure that it will matter, but I drilled a small hole in the left front corner (from the driver’s seat) to relocate the plate when the time comes. The plate is secured to the car and to the other catch components with two two 1/4″ – 28 x 3/4″ hex head bolts.

Striker Plate

Striker Plate Clean

Bonnet Catch Base Plate, Catch Plate and Spring

These three pieces of the bonnet catch mechanism were media blasted and will be zinc plated.

Bonnet Catch Components

Bonnet Striker & Pin

This assembly consists of the striker pin or peg, three retaining washers, a spring, and a nut to adjust the compression of the spring. The assembly mounts to the bonnet with the threaded end of the peg which is 7/16″ – 20. The large washer was bent and I don’t know if that is intentional or not. I could not find new components from the usual vendors so I blasted these pieces and painted them with POR-15 to prevent future rusting.

Bonnet Striker Pin Assembly

Safety Hook for Bonnet Catch

The safety hook for bonnet catch is comprised of the hook, tension spring, pivot pin, flat washer and split pin. I media blasted these components and while as original they were painted body color, I had the safety hook chromed and the other components cad plated.

Safety Hook

Safety Hook Components Cleaned

Safety Hook for Bonnet Catch

Adaptor Plate Assembly for Solenoid and Solenoid Weather Protection Flange

The starter solenoid and its mounting bracket are fastened to the Adaptor Plate with two #10 – 32 x 1/2″ machine screws and shake proof washers. The Assembly is the mounted to the firewall through the Weather Protection Flange with three 1/4″ – 28 x 1/2″ hex head bolts and shakeproof washers.

Solenoid Mounting

Trial fitting of the Starter Solenoid Bracket and Weather Protection Flange.

Adaptor Plate Assembly for Solenoid and Solenoid Weather Protection Flange

Access Panel for Radiator Grille

A small panel is provided below the chrome grille to access its the fixing points to the body. As with most of the car, this panel was heavily coated with undercoating. I removed the undercoating, blasted the piece and treated it with rust preventative for painting later. The panel is secured to the body with two #10 -32 x 1/2″ slotted machine screws.

Access Panel

Access Panel for Radiator Grille

LH Valance

Getting rid of heat build up under the bonnet is a real problem with the MK2 Jags. I am adding air conditioning that will probably further contribute to the heat issue. Following the lead of some others I decided to remove a lower section of the LH engine bay valance hoping that the opening would help some of the heat escape a little more efficiently. I ordered some stainless wire cloth from McMaster-Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-wire-mesh/=xas1n5 that has four openings per inch. The cloth is welded not crimped to form the mesh. The idea is that the stainless wire cloth will allow the heat escape but will also keep any road debris from entering the engine bay.

LH Valance Area to be Removed

LH Valance Opening for Cooling

It was a little challenge to get the screen to fit because of the curvature of the sides of the valance opening. I used 1/8″ x 1/2″ steel to frame the mesh cloth and welded the corners. Nut sets were used to fasten the frame to the body so that the screen could be removed for cleaning from the wheel well.

I intentionally left a small gap along the lower edge so that water and grime would not be trapped between the screen and the body. I will have the screen painted body color before final installation.

Fabricated Ventialtion Screen

LH Valance Ventilation Screen in Place Inside

LH Valance Ventilation Screen in Place Outside

Steering Column

Posted on April 24, 2015 by valv8988

Steering Column

Steering Column Cover Assembly

Unfortunately, the cover on my steering column was broken, but these plastic pieces are available from the usual vendors. I ordered new halves and assembled them with the original overdrive indicator and clear plastic lens. The assembly consists of the Upper Steering Cover Assembly at Center of Steering Wheel (with indicator plate inscribed ‘Overdrive’) and the Lower Steering Cover at Center of Steering Wheel.Both the indicator plate and the lens cleaned up with a little soap and water and plastic polish.

Steering Cover Assembly

Steering Cover Assembly Bottom Half

Steering Cover Assembly Top Half

Body Fittings

Posted on August 28, 2014 by valv8988

Body Fittings

Finishers on “A” Posts

The original finishers were in excellent condition. I had both rechromed for the project. Though two of the tabs have holes in them as if for screws, no screws are used for installation. The tabs are tightly bent over the posts and the finishers are glued to the post.

Finishers on “A” Post New Chrome

Finishers on the Center “B” Posts

These finishers were also in very good condition and were rechromed for use in the restoration.

Finishers for B/C Posts New Chrome

Chrome Bead Upper and Lower for B/C Posts

I had these little pieces of Bead rechromed for installation on the car.

Chrome Bead for Upper and Lower for B/C Posts

Joint Piece at Centre of Drip Moulding Finishers

These two little pieces were in good shape so I simply cleaned and polished them. They are held in place by two chrome #4 flat head 1/4″ self tapping screws.

Joint Piece at Centre of Drip Moulding Finishers

Joint Piece for Chromium Finisher Around Backlight Glass

These were also in good condition so I cleaned and polished them for future use. A silicone adhesive was used to hold these in place.

Joint Piece for Chromium Finisher Around BackLight Glass

Interior Mirror Assembly on Windscreen Header Panel

While the rearview mirror appears to be in good enough condition to restore rather than replace, I did have to purchase a new mounting bracket and locking nut. The threads on the originals were completely stripped. I had the post rechromed and whether as a result of the rechroming or the new bracket and nut having slightly different dimensions, the post would not slide in the bracket. I very carefully drilled out the nut and bracket with a 9/32″ drill bit and the post now slides and locks as it should.

As it turns out, most of the mounting bracket is covered by the roof liner when installed so it will need to be installed prior to the roof liner going in the car. The image below shows the proper installation.

Before reassembling the mirror I need to have the glass resilvered.

Interior Mirror Mounting Bracket, Post and Locking Nut

Mirror Mounting Bracket Installed

Sun Visor Friction Pivot Assembly

I disassembled the sun visors pulling out the friction rod for rechroming.

Sun Visor Friction Pivot Assembly Rechromed

Remote Control Wire and Bonnet Bonnet Lock Assembly

Details located at: https://valvechatter.com/?cat=677

Adjuster & Abutment

Steering Column, Lower Mounting Assembly

I media blasted the mounting assembly and prepared it for fresh paint:

Steering Column Lower Mounting Assembly

Steering Column Lower Mounting Assembly Painted

Lower Steering Column Bracket Installed

Interior Front Finisher Panel Assembly Mounting Bracket

This little bracket mounts on top of the gearbox cover with four machine screws. The Radio Front Finisher Panel mounts to it with a 1/4″ – 28 x 1″ hex head bolt and shakeproof washer. The bracket is affixed to the gearbox cover with four #8 x 1/4″ machine screws.

Mounting Bracket to Gearbox

Mounting Bracket Painted

Gearbox Cover

After degreasing and cleaning the cover I media blasted it. While the cover has sen better days, it is functional and can still be used. I did a trial fitting of the cover with new hardware including eleven special washers, eleven, stainless steel 14 x 3/4″ pan head phillips head self-tapping screws and eleven spire nuts or J-Style slip-on nuts. The original screws were slotted.

To ease access, I assume for a clutch replacement, the sheet metal around the gearbox had been cut, but John Stefanik was able to get it all welded back together. There was originally a “tar paper” gasket around the outside edge of the tunnel. I intend to use Dynamat Extreme for that purpose upon final assembly.

Repaired Gearbox Tunnel

Gearbox Cover Special Washer Sheet Metal Screw and J Style Slip-on Nut

Gearbox Cover Installed

Grille Assembly in Front Finisher Panel

I had the this radio speaker grille rechromed and it came out quite well!

Grill Assembly in Front Finisher Panel New Chrome

Cover, On Trunk Floor, Giving Access to Fuel Gauge Unit

This little piece may have been the rustiest single component on the car. While not perfect, I was able to bring it back to life! Here are the before and after images:

Fuel Gauge Cover

These are a few images of work along the way. First rust remover and body prep and then body filler:

Cover

Cover Underside

Cover with Filler

The little strap for the cover was too far gone, so I made a new one with some 26 gauge stock and riveted it to the cover.

Spare Wheel Clamp Assembly

This device screws into a threaded plate in the spare wheel cavity in the boot to secure the spare tire. It was badly rusted but I media basted and painted with POR 15 making it serviceable.

Painted Spare Wheel Clamp Assembly

Rubber Buffer, At Front Corners, For Bonnet Stop

I replaced the bolt and nut as well as installing new rubber stops on the bolt:

Bonnet Rubber Buffers

Door Filler Pieces on the Shut Face Panel

Each door has a small aluminum filler piece painted body color that is supported by a block of hardwood held together with two #4 chrome oval top wood screws in each. In my case the two rear filler pieces used 3/4″ screws while the front pieces used 1/2″ screws. Interestingly the parts manual calls for the wood packing on the front doors to be plywood and hardwood is used on the rear doors. Go figure! Modern plywood is not as wide as it was back in the sixties, so to get the proper width, I used solid wood for all four. It appears that the pieces were painted while mounted on the car, but I cannot be sure since my car has been resprayed.

RH Front Door Filler Piece On the Shut Face Panel

RH Rear

LH Front

LH Rear

Filler Pieces, On Shut Face Panel at Waist Level of Doors with New Wood Packing

Lower Radiator Grille Fixing Plate

There is a small fixing plate at the bottom of the center vane of the radiator grille. I media blasted this piece and will have it zinc plated.

Fixing Plate at Bottom of Center Vane of the Radiator Grille

Rezinced Fixing Plate at Bottom of Center Vane of the Radiator Grille

Jack Retaining Clip

This little clip helps secure the Jack in the boot of the car.

Rezinced Jack Retaining Clip

Trunk Lid Lock

The original lock assembly including the “Lock, complete, for Trunk lid”, and the “Striker Assembly for the Trunk Lid Lock” were functional and in reasonably good shape. I media blasted both of the components and primed with self-etching primer for painting body color at a later date. The lock is secured to the floor pan of the trunk with four fillister-head slotted machine screws 10 – 32 x 1/2″ into captive nuts. There is a rubber sleeve or seal that fits around the lock. It was also in reasonably good shape and will be reused. The Trunk Lid Striker is secured to the trunk lid with four 1/4″ -28 x 5/8″ hex head bolts with flat and shakeproof washers.

Trunk Lid Lock with Striker Assembly

Wiper System Upgrade

Posted on August 27, 2014 by valv8988

Wiper System Upgrade

I am upgrading the wiper system with a kit provided by Classic Motor Cars. http://www.classic-motor-cars.co.uk/servicing_types/mk2-lorem/.

The kit uses a model 29 W Lucas Motor, part# 75967D that I believe was used for XJ series Jags in the eighties and early nineties with a modified original switch to operate the system.

CMC Improved Wiper System Kit Contents

These are the instructions provided for the kit:

CMC Improved Wiper System Instructions

Installation

I had already removed all of the original wiper system from the car. I installed the RH Bonnet Hinge and the Fuel Filter and Fuel Pipe to make sure that the mounting of the wiper motor would not foul or interfere with these components.

1. The first step was to install the new wheel boxes. These are a slightly different shape than the originals but held by new chrome nuts supplied in the kit they went right into place.

New Wiper Wheel Box Installed

2. I attached the wiper motor to the kit-provided mounting bracket using the hoop clamp and the rubber cushion to address vibration. The bolts were also provided with the kit.

3. The original rack tube is used between the two wheel boxes. This is a straight piece that drops in once the covers for the wheel boxes are loosened.

4. A new rack tube end piece (about 3″ long) is provided in the kit and is shown in the last of the previous images. It is open at the end to permit the rack to slide through. The provided rack is longer than it needs to be to allow for flexibility in mounting I assume? The open-ended tube allows one to determine how much of the rack is to be removed.

5. Using the original curved rack tube that extends through the firewall as a guide, the new tube provided in the kit is bent to conform to the same shape.

6. I then tested my bending skills by inserting the tube through the firewall and connecting the one end to the wheel box and the other to the motor while holding the motor on its bracket roughly in place on the RH valance in the engine compartment. Once satisfied with the fit, I marked the location for the two hex head bolts that mount the motor bracket to the valance. I then disconnected the tube at both ends and withdrew the motor and tube from the car.

7. I drilled two 3/8″ holes in the RH engine bay valance to secure the motor bracket.

8. The rack was then fit to the motor. This required taking the cover off the motor and inserting the rack end fitting to the peg on the action lever in the motor. I then buttoned up the cover and slid the curved rack tube over the rack and tightened it to the motor.

9. I then fed the rack through the RH wheel box, the center straight tube, and then the LH wheel box. This required an additional helpful person to hold the wiper motor in the engine bay while I fed the rack through the boxes.

10. I then bolted the motor bracket to the valance using two hex head 5/16″ – 24 x 3/4″ bolts, with flat and shake-proof washers. The kit provided 1/4″ bolts, but I substituted the 5/16.”

11. The rack was approximately 6″ longer than it needed to be, so I trimmed it to proper length with a dremel tool.

12. The kit provides a relay, a modified switch and some wiring. To make sure everything was functional I connected all terminals between the motor, the relay and the switch, secured the ground connections and attached it all to a power input. Everything worked properly.

13. After the car is painted and before final installation, I will grease the rack for smoother operation and add a grommet to the firewall for the rack tube and one for the wiper motor wiring. I plan to use:

Molykote® Bearing Grease Designed for Extreme Low Temperature ApplicationsMIDLAND, Mich. – August 12, 2005 – With a service temperature range of -100° to 400°F (-73° to 204°C), Molykote® 33 Extreme Low Temperature Bearing Grease is effective at lubricating plastic gears, bearings and cams, as well as metal and rubber parts that must remain operable when subjected to low operating temperatures, severe weathering and oxidation.

Molykote 33 Extreme Low Temperature Bearing Grease can be used on freezer cart casters and cold room conveyor equipment; utility disconnect switch contacts; plastic electric clock motors; maximum-demand meters, power-factor meters, watt-hour meters; windshield wiper motor gears; photographic, optical

The three images below show the mounted wiper motor and the rack tube through the firewall.

CMC Upgraded Wiper Motor Kit Installed

Wiper Rack through Firewall

Door Handles and Locks

Posted on August 15, 2014 by valv8988

Door Handles and Locks

Keyless Entry or Remote Control Door Locks

I am installing a keyless entry system with central locking activated either by the front door handles (exterior or interior) or by a battery operated key fob. Details regarding the system may be found in the “Remote Control Door Locks” post in my web site: https://valvechatter.com/?p=9205.

This post will include the mechanical components of the door locking system. This image from the MK2 Service Manual provides a nice schematic of he parts used in the locking system:

MK2 Door Lock Mechanism

Outside Door Handles

I am using the original outside door handles, but each was rechromed. I cleaned each of the operating lever assemblies and greased each push button shaft with white lithium grease.

Outside Door Handles with Operating Lever Assemblies

Door Handle Lock Cylinders

The face of one of the lock cylinders was mangled from use so I decided to replace both cylinders with new units from SNG Barratt. The Service Manual indicates that only oil should be used to lubricate the the private lock cylinders, and recommends once a month. Grease is never to be used.

New Front Door Lock Cylinders and Keys

Lock Assemblies for Doors

I chose not to rechrome the lock assemblies, or lock cases as they are called in the Service Manual, primarily because they are not easy to take apart given that they are riveted together. While the chrome finish is not perfect on the locks, I think it will be good enough. I cleaned and lubricated each lock and polished the chrome. New chrome screws will be used. There is a small hole located at the top of each lock case (“T” in the schematic above) into which a few drops of thin machine oil should be introduced one a month.

Lock Assemblies for Doors

Inside Door handles and Handles for Window Regulators

I am using the original inside door handles, but each was rechromed.

Inside Handles for Doors and Window Regulator Handles Rechromed

Door Lock Strikers

As with the locks, I choose not to rechrome the strikers. I cleaned and polished each. Each striker had a shim. The shims were cleaned and cad plated. New chrome screws will be used. Each Striker is mounted to the door with three chrome pozi-drive oval head 1/4″x28 x 1-1/4″ screws.

Strikers for Door Locks

Locking Mechanism Installation

First, all four exterior door handles are installed on the doors. Each handle has two #10-32 mounting studs with a flat washer, shakeproof washer and nut. The front of the handles had what appeared to be leather or fiber pads between the handle and the door when I removed them from the car. I replaced these with neoprene pads that I cut to shape. Once finally mounted, these can be cut to shape with a sharp razor knife.

Exterior Door handle with Neoprene Cushion

Then the base plate assemblies are attached to the handles. These assemblies are marked LH and RH. As explained in my “Remote Control Door Locks” post referenced earlier, the Connecting Links for each door lock are modified for the operation of my keyless entry system modification. I will not explain further in this post.

LH Lock Base-Plate Assembly

RH Lock Base Plate Assembly Orientation on the Door Handle

In the poor photo below, the Base-Plate Assembly can be seen and its two #10-32 x 1″ mounting screws can accessed through the door aperture. These two screws attach the Assembly to the exterior door handle.

Door Lock Base Plate Assembly Viewed Through Aperture

As the Service Manual indicates, ” the appropriate assembly should be held in position inside the door panel and the clearance between the push button plunger and the (“O” in the schematic) and the lock contractor (P) checked through the aperture in the inner door panel. The clearance should be 1/32″. To adjust, release the lock-nut and screw the plunger bolt in or out as required and retighten the lock nut.”

Jag MK2 Lock Plunger Mechanism

I apologize for the confusion in nomenclature, but Jaguar calls the mechanical device below the “remote control.”

Rear Door Remote Controls with Lock Case Assemblies to the Left

The Service Manual directs that the remote controls are to be installed to the door and connected to the lock case assemblies while in the locked position. This is accomplished with split pins on the front remote controls and with a small piece of steel dowel on the rear doors. The images below show the front and rear remote controls installed on the doors.

Lock Remote Control Installation on Front Door

LH Rear Door Window Regulator Mount and Lock remote Control

Spire Nuts for Door Lock Remote Controls Installed

Circlip Connecting Remote Control Lock to the Lock Case Assembly

Lock Case Assembly with Four Mounting Screws

The lock Case Assembly is secured to the door with four chrome oval head phillips #10-32 x 3/4″ machine screws.

I replaced the original spire nuts and rubber grommets on each door with new items.

“Cubby” Glove Box

Posted on August 4, 2014 by valv8988

“Cubby” Glove Box

The “Cubby” as the glove box is referred to is located on the RH side of the dash fascia.

Cubby Door

It has a hinged wooden door and the box itself is a heavy cardboard material. My original is in excellent shape but unfortunately suffers from a lingering musty odor from years of damp car storage so I will not be able to use it. The image below shows the components of the glove box assembly including a newly chromed trim piece.

Cubby Box Components and Fasteners

The glove box is mounted to the RH Wood Facia Board Assembly with the following components:

Cubby Box Components and Fasteners

Valve Chatter

Category Archives: Jag MK2

Exterior Lights

Bonnet Catch/Latch

Classic Technologies Relay/Fuse Panel

Radiomobile Radio, Aerial and Housing

Body Panels and Trim

Steering Column

Body Fittings

Wiper System Upgrade

Door Handles and Locks

“Cubby” Glove Box

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