Tag Archives: Rally Bumpers

Rear Rally Overrider Modification

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I have never been happy with the Rally Overrider brackets I installed during the restoration process for the Bloody Beast. I ordered the brackets from Cape International and while they fit (I guess), the Rally Bumpers protruded too far from the rear shroud.

Cape International Rally Overrider Brackets

I had resigned myself to finally solve the problem with some cutting and welding. However, I met a new Healey enthusiast who was just finishing up his restoration and he mentioned to me that he had purchased his Rally Overrider brackets from AH Spares and that he was pleased with them. He showed me a few photos and I was sold. I ordered a pair of the brackets from AH Spares for $73.00.

It was immediately obvious upon inspection that the AH Spares brackets were shorter and the angle of the brackets where they mount with the Overrider was also considerably different. The AH Spares bracket is laying on top of the Cape International bracket in the photo below. The much sharper angle on the AH Spares bracket tucks the rally bumper up and under the shroud nicely, paralleling the shroud curvature.

Old and New Brackets

I decided to replace the RH side bracket first. The initial step in the replacement process was to remove the battery and just to make things a little easier I also removed the master ground switch near the battery. This provided access to the two 3/8″ bolts that secure the bracket to the frame of the car.

Battery and Master Ground Switch

With the battery removed one can see the forward bolt for the bracket mount:

Battery Brace and Forward Bracket bolt

To get to the rear-most bracket bolt I removed the master ground switch:

Master Ground Switch

It was then just a matter of bolting the rally bumper to the bracket and sliding the assembly into place. I then tightened all of the bolts, replaced the battery and tray as well as the master ground switch. I then moved to the left side of the boot.

Of course, to access the LH bracket one must remove the spare tire!

Spare Tire Removal

I then installed the LH bracket and rally overrider as I had done the RH side and replaced the spare tire and cover. While I was at it, I checked the air pressure in the spare and found it to be 11 pounds so I topped that up to 30 and was glad for the reminder to check spare air pressure!

I am quite happy with the finished product. The rally overrider bumpers now fit as they should and I think it is a much better look.

Rally Overrider with AH Spares bracket

New Overrider brackets Installed

Rear View of New Rally Overrider Install

One more task completed and checked off the list!

 

 

Chapter 69 Assembly Week Thirty-Nine September 10, 2007

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The next job to be tackled was the installation of the rivets for the rear shroud to the frame. There are 19 aluminum flush face rivets for the lower lip of the car and another 13 rivets that attach the shroud to the rear boot frame rail.

First, I put a healthy bead of 3M body caulk between the two pieces to keep water out of the boot. I clamped things together as best I could and inserted pop rivets in the frame rail just to line the components up properly. The aluminum rivets for the lower lip were sourced from British Car Specialists. I purchased a rivet squeezer tool from Brown Aviation Tools with the 2003-16 1/8” rivet set to use for the job. An expensive tool at $135 for one little job! The tool worked nicely. After an initial “squeeze” with the tool, I put five small #10 washers on the rivet set to pull them closer together and squeezed the rivet again. I ended up with a very satisfactory job. As per original specifications, I then painted the lower lip satin black.

Rivet Squeezer

Lower Rivets installed

There just wasn’t room to use the rivet squeezer for the boot rail-to-shroud assembly so I used 1/8” diameter, 1/4” long aluminum pop rivets for the job. The nose of the rivet gun wanted to hit the boot lip so I put about three thicknesses of blue painter’s masking tape around the area to protect the paint. I did get two small nicks that were touched up, but otherwise the project was a success. It pays to take your time on the rivet job if you are assembling after painting.

Rivet paint protection

Pop Riveter

Pop Rivets installed

Following the rivet work I installed the rear bumper bars and rally bumpers supplied by Cape International. New rubber grommet seals were installed on each bar, paying attention to the LH/RH designation. I am very pleased with the look of the rally bumpers, although one is not afforded much protection by these full bumper replacements!

Rally Bumpers

The next task was to install the boot lid. This turned out to be pretty easy. Again I protected the body with some blue painter’s masking tape and with the help of my wife, put the lid in place and tightened down the boot hinges. After getting the lid in place, I needed to adjust the boot lid striker so that it would fit properly to latch the boot lid. I then attached the boot lid control cable to the lower hinge post and I was in business!

Boot Lid Installed 2

Back End Finished

Before the final installation of the engine, I decided to fit the clutch assembly and Smitty Bellhousing to the block and put in the car to make sure the clutch was working properly. I wanted to make sure that I had sufficient room for the clutch fork to function once connected to the slave cylinder. Some might call this a little anal, but if you install with just the bellhousing and not the gearbox, you can view everything to ensure success later!

Clutch Fork 1

Clutch Fork 2

Clutch Fork 3

 

Chapter 68 Week Thirty-Eight September 3, 2007

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Since I am using rally bumpers on the “Bloody Beast” rather than the standard rear bumper, I needed to develop a custom rear license plate bracket. I combined the stock bracket with a later BJ8 bracket that provides a space for the Lucas license plate lamp. All of this was a little heavy to hang on just the two holes in the rear of the aluminum shroud, so I fabricated a small steel plate to mount inside the shroud and sandwiched the shroud with two homemade gaskets of 1/16” black rubber. The assembly looks nice and I think provides a satisfactory solution given the lack of a bumper on which to mount it.

License Plate Bracket 1

License Plate Bracket 3

Having taken the car off the wooden dollies I had made to transport it from my home to Maple Hill Restoration, I was able to get to the lower part of the front suspension and install the Cape International 3/4” anti-sway bar.

Anti-Sway Bar hardware

Anti-sway bar mounted 1