April 2009 Healey Marque Article on The Bloody Beast
Not too long after the completion of the restoration of The Bloody Beast, Reid Trummel, editor of the Healey Marque magazine contacted me about preparing an article for an upcoming edition. I put some narrative and photos together, expecting to get one or two pages in the magazine, but Reid surprised me with quite an spread! Thanks, Reid.
This link will direct you to a pdf file of the article:
I want to update ValveChatter readers regarding several “life changes” that have occurred which will have an influence on this site and on future posts.
My wife and I have relocated from Virginia to Florida. As most retirees do, we “downsized.” In our case it didn’t just mean fewer square feet in the living quarters, it also meant loss of garage/workshop space. Adjusting to the smaller garage/shop has been much more difficult than getting use to a smaller home! I still have a lift in garage so that I can stack two cars and also have a daily driver under shelter, but work space has been reduced considerably. The big air compressor, media blast box and lots of parts storage are all gone now.
The Bugeye which was a father/son project has departed the fold and is now full-time with my son in Fort Lauderdale. It was a very difficult decision, but I decided to sell the unfinished Jaguar MK2 project before we left Virginia. It was sold to Mike Gassman of Gassman Automotive in Waynesboro, VA. Mike will finish the car as he has time in his busy shop. If you have an interest I would recommend contacting Mike. He does great work and is a real professional. As readers of the site will remember, Mike and his team rebuilt the MK2 engine and also set up the rear differential. I had sold the 1969 MB 280 SL last summer so it had already departed the stable.
I am now left with my first love – The Bloody Beast – a 1960 Austin-Healey 3000 MKI, and the 1987 Alfa Romeo Spider that was passed down from my Dad to me. The Healey and the Alfa are in their new home with us.
I removed ValveChatter references to the 2005 Porsche 911 Carrera S and the 1969 Mercedes Benz 280SL when I sold the car, but I am going to leave the Jaguar MK2 and the 1959 Bugeye material on the website. Last month the site went over 300,000 views and that statistic plus the number of you that I hear from suggests that quite a few people are using the site for reference material so I hate to take it down – at least for now.
So, that is the recent news as of August 2018. My attention now turns to the Healey. I hope that some of you who are interested will follow the “ten-year” renewal project with the Healey and I hope that you will contribute as well.
Cheers,
Lin
British Car Shows
This page includes a chronological photo journal of the various British Car shows I have attended. Car shows proved to be a great place to pick up modification ideas and meeting other Healey people was by far the best part.
2018 All British Field Meet & Auto-jumble
The Tampa Bay Austin Healey Club hosts this event each year. The show was held in Safety Harbor, FL a quaint “older” Florida community and it was a lovely setting for the show. Safety Harbor is about one hour from Bradenton. Unlike many shows held in a grass field, the community closes a section of Main Street to park approximately 200 registered vehicles.
Registration
It turned out to be a beautiful day with overcast skies and the temperature in the low eighties. The following link will take you to a collection of photos from the show. “The Bloody Beast” received a “First Place in Class.”
My two favorites:
Le Mans Nash Healey
Gorgeous Bugeye
And the Bloody Beast in show:
The Bloody Beast – 1960 AH BT7
The Bloody Beast – 1960 AH BT7
First in Class
2014 Shenandoah Valley British Car Club Annual Show
The SVBCC sponsors a Fall show each year. We have typically not been able to attend due to a calendar conflict, but this year were able to go and as special treat our friends, Steve and Carolyn Thomton from Colorado joined us. It was a beautiful fall day and the Club put on a well attended program. The following link will take you to the photo album for the show. We got a “First in Class,” but it wasn’t much to brag about since there was a grand total of three cars in the Healey side-curtain class!
https://www.flickr.com/photos/valve-chatter/sets/72157648396519171/
Steve and Lin off to the SVBCC Show
Class “K” #57 1st Place
Classics on the Green 2014 New Kent, VA
This event is sponsored by the Central Virginia British Car Club. It usually draws around 300 cars. This year the featured marque was Ferrari and I would estimate that there were approximately forty in attendance including a rare Ferrari motorcycle! This is the link to the images of the show: https://www.flickr.com/photos/valve-chatter/sets/72157647193988450/
1930 Austin Six Truck
Austin-Healey Conclave 2014
The Homestead Conclave 2014
My wife, Judith, and I attended the annual Conclave held at the stately Homestead Resort in Hot Springs, Virginia. The Conclave began on Sunday, June 15 and concluded on Thursday evening, June 19. The car show was held at a gorgeous venue (the golf practice range) on an equally beautiful crystal clear day. This is a link to the images taken at the show:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/valve-chatter/sets/72157645200978751/
Pittsburgh Vintage Gran Prix 2013
Ferrari 330 Star of the Show
My son, Scott, and I attended the show and races this year. This is always a great weekend. I had not attended in nine years, but the events were better than ever. This is a link to the photos I took at the show and races: http://flic.kr/s/aHsjH3J9vo
Monterey, CA Auctions 2012
Pebble Beach Concours d Elegance, 2012
I was able to attend the Gooding and RM auctions in August, 2012 at Monterey and Pebble Beach, CA. It was definitely a “bucket list” item! What beautiful and often quite rare automobiles. The following link will direct you to a collection of three sets or albums of images from these two auctions as well as some cars sold at the Mecum auction that happened to be located at the Hyatt where I was staying:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/valve-chatter/collections/72157631256039158/
I was also able to attend the Concours d Elegance at the Pebble Beach Lodge and Golf Course. What an amazing show. Claimed by many to be the best car show in the world. This is a link to the Concours images:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/valve-chatter/sets/72157631255282230/
Classics On The Green 2011
Sponsored by the Central Virginia British Car Club 
The Central Virginia British Car Club held its annual car show at the New Kent Winery in New Kent, Virginia. Scott Rose and I took “The Bloody Beast” to the show which had as a featured marque the cars of Donald Healey. A special display of each model type of Healey’s cars was assembled by Jim Cox for the spectators. In reality, the show is open to all european makes, which made for a very interesting show. It was nice to look at the old and the new – Bentleys and Ferraris! This was a very well organized event that I will definitely plan to attend again in 2012. Click on the icon to the left to view a collection of photos from the event. Click the link below to view an album of the event. http://www.flickr.com/photos/valve-chatter/sets/72157630738687508/
The Hunt Country Classic 2011
Sponsored by the Washington DC MG Car Club 
Members of The Capital Area Austin Healey Club attended the 2011 edition of the Hunt Country Classic in near record numbers. The weather was perfect, approaching 80 degrees in the afternoon with clear skies. The event is held at Willoughby Farm, home of the host, Barbara Scott. The farm is nestled midway between historic Marshall, and lovely Middleburg, deep in the rolling hills of Virginia’s incomparable Hunt Country. “The Bloody Beast” took second in class again this year with Tim Flaherty taking first with his Old English White AH 100. Club members did very well with a number of trophies taken home by the Club. Click on the icon to the left to link to photos taken at the show.
Encounter 2011
The Austin Healey Sport and Touring Club 
The Austin-Healey Sports and Touring Club – A Car Club for Healey, Austin-Healey, and Austin-Healey Sprite Owners and Enthusiasts with regions in New York, Pennsylvania, Delaware and New Jersey always puts on a great annual event referred to as “Encounter.” The event is held in August of each year. A judged Concours, popular vote car show, a rallye, tech sessions, a gymkhana, funkhana, valve cover races and a flea market are just a few of the usual events. Click the image to the left to view a slide show of the 2011 event held in Paradise, PA. My son Scott and I attended this year. We were only able to attend the popular car show on Saturday, so we didn’t drive the Bloody Beast or the Bugeye this time, as it is a four hour, fifteen minute trip each way. We had a great time, nonetheless. Click the link below to view an album of the event. http://www.flickr.com/photos/valve-chatter/sets/72157630737393610/
British Invade Gettysburg 2011
Sponsored by the Lanco MG Club 
Since 2000 the Lanco MG Club has sponsored this “all marques” British Car show at the Outlet Mall in Gettysburg, PA. The event is pretty loosely organized, as cars are not arranged by marque and they are not judged. It is simply an occasion for the general public and fellow car owners to enjoy viewing a couple hundred beautiful automobiles. As one would expect on July 17, it was a warm Sunday afternoon, but it was a clear and beautiful day. A number of CAAHC members were on hand. Click the link below to view an album of the event. http://www.flickr.com/photos/valve-chatter/sets/72157630737075302/
The Hunt Country Classic 2010
Sponsored by the Washington DC MG Car Club 
Members of The Capital Area Austin Healey Club attended the 2009 Hunt Country Classic in Marshall, Virginia on October 10. The event is held at Willoughby Farm, home of the host, Barbara Scott. The farm is nestled midway between historic Marshall, and lovely Middleburg, deep in the rolling hills of Virginia’s incomparable Hunt Country. The weather was unbelievably beautiful for this outing. Almost eighty with a crystal clear blue sky. “The Bloody Beast” finished second in class this year, with Mac Holt taking first place with his silver over black 1957 100-6. Mac also won the Mayor’s trophy with Jack White winning the Ambassador’s trophy! It was a great day for the CAAHC! Click the link below to view an album of the event. http://www.flickr.com/photos/valve-chatter/sets/72157630736908560/
The Original British Car Day 2010
Sponsored by the Chesapeake Chapter of the New England MGT Register 
Members of The Capital Area Austin Healey Club attended the 2010 Original British Car Day at Lilypons Water Gardens in Adamstown, MD on June 6, 2010. There is always a great turn out of British cars at this event with healthy collection of Austin Healeys. Unfortunately, the Show tends to be plagued with the sudden arrival of thunderstorms and this year was no different. Many people left at about 1:00 pm before the storm actually hit. The Land Rover was the official marque of the show this year as it celebrated 60 years since first rolling off the production line. “The Bloody Beast” was an award recipient at the the OBCD winning first place among the Big Healeys and we collected a nice pewter plate for our efforts. However, as always, it was really the opportunity to visit with other car owners and with young people interested in learning more about British cars that made the event fun. Click the link below to view an album of the event. http://www.flickr.com/photos/valve-chatter/sets/72157630736619516/
The Hunt Country Classic 2009
Sponsored by the Washington DC MG Car Club 
Members of The Capital Area Austin Healey Club attended the 2009 Hunt Country Classic in Marshall, Virginia on October 11. The event is held at Willoughby Farm, home of the hosts, Bill and Barbara Scott. Their farm is nestled midway between historic Marshall, and lovely Middleburg, deep in the rolling hills of Virginia’s incomparable Hunt Country. The weather was unbelievably beautiful for this outing. Mid-seventies with a crystal clear blue sky. The “Bloody Beast” wasn’t able to park with the other Healey’s this year! Having won first place in 2008, my car was not eligible to compete for a prize. So, I was parked with other first place cars from last year in the Prince of Wales category. Judith Rose was the proud recipient of the third place award for her sweet potato cake! Click the link below to view an album of the event. http://www.flickr.com/photos/valve-chatter/sets/72157630736424410/
The Scottish Games 2009
The Capital Area Austin Healey Club 
Members of The Capital Area Austin Healey Club attended the 2009 version of the Scottish Games held at Great Meadows, Virginia on September 9. A car show for British makes is held in conjunction with the Games although it is certainly secondary to the Games “competitions” and vendor displays. Wool tartan products, family clans, and Scottish foods are available to all attending. Click the link below to view an album of the event. http://www.flickr.com/photos/valve-chatter/sets/72157630736301500/
James Madison University
Homecoming Parade 2008 
Judith and I have ridden in the annual JMU Homecoming Parade for the last 11 years. However, we have always been passengers in someone else’s convertible. This year, we drove ourselves in the “Bloody Beast.” We may have had more fun than the spectators! Click on the link below to see a few Homecoming Parade photos. http://www.flickr.com/photos/valve-chatter/sets/72157630736183240/
The Hunt Country Classic 2008
Sponsored by the Washington DC MG Car Club 
Members of The Capital Area Austin Healey Club attended the 2008 Hunt Country Classic in Marshall, Virginia on October 12. The event is held at Willoughby Farm, home of the hosts, Bill and Barbara Scott. Their farm is nestled midway between historic Marshall, and lovely Middleburg, deep in the rolling hills of Virginia’s incomparable Hunt Country. The weather was unbelievably beautiful for this outing. Mid-seventies with a crystal clear blue sky. At last count there were twenty-four Healeys in attendance, with several hundred representatives of other British marques. Thanks to Mary Oritt for encouraging attendance and organizing a “dessert competition.” Judith Rose was the proud recipient of the first place award for he COSTCO cupcakes! This is a show for pleasure, and the company of others who share interest in vintage British machinery. In this vein, judging is by popular vote of one’s peers, each of whom has a car entered in the show. Each entrant receives one ballot, and may cast one vote per class. The Healeys were divided into two classes: side curtain and roll-up window. “The Bloody Beast” took home 1st place in the side curtain class. Click the link below to view an album of the event. http://www.flickr.com/photos/valve-chatter/sets/72157630736015438/
The Scottish Games 2008
The Capital Area Austin Healey Club 
Members of The Capital Area Austin Healey Club attended the 2008 version of the Scottish Games held in Delaplane, Virginia on September 14. A car show for British makes is held in conjunction with the Games although it is certainly secondary to the Games “competitions” and vendor displays. Wool tartan products, family clans, and Scottish foods are available to all attending. This year the event was exceptionally warm. The temperature was in the mid-nineties with humidity about the same. Still, it is always fun to get the Club together and everyone had a good time. Click the link below to view an album of the event. http://www.flickr.com/photos/valve-chatter/sets/72157630735760916/
Encounter 2008
The Austin Healey Sport and Touring Club 
The Austin-Healey Sports and Touring Club – A Car Club for Healey, Austin-Healey, and Austin-Healey Sprite Owners and Enthusiasts with regions in New York, Pennsylvania, Delaware and New Jersey always puts on a great annual event referred to as “Encounter.” The event is held in August of each year. A judged Concours, popular vote car show, a rallye, tech sessions, a gymkhana, funkhana, valve cover races and a flea market are just a few of the usual events. Click the link below to view an album of the event held in Carlisle, PA. My son John and I attended this year. John drove the Bugeye and I drove the “Bloody Beast” from Harrisonburg.We enjoyed the best weather I can ever remember for an Encounter. We were only able to attend Friday and Saturday, but had a wonderful time. John did some outstanding gymkhana driving and the “Bloody Beast” took home first place in the MK I category. http://www.flickr.com/photos/valve-chatter/sets/72157630735572622/
The Capital Classic 2008
The Capital Area Austin Healey Club 
The Capital Area Austin Healey Club – A Car Club for Healey, Austin-Healey, and Austin-Healey Sprite Owners and Enthusiasts within the DC region puts on an annual event referred to as “The Capital Classic.” The event is held in June of each year and is typically attended by 30+ enthusiasts. The format varies and has included a popular vote car show, a rallye, tech sessions, and a funkhana. The 2008 “Classic” was held in beautiful Cumberland, Maryland. This year the focus was on Healey fellowship, driving our cars, and appreciating the landscapes. The program included an historian’s lecture on the area, a walking tour of downtown Cumberland with its historic architecture, a steam locomotive ride to Frostburg, MD, and a wonderful scenic drive on Sunday. All club members are indebted to Mary and Michael Oritt for planning and executing the event. Click the link below to view an album of the event. Click the link below to view an album of the event. http://www.flickr.com/photos/valve-chatter/sets/72157630734563432/
Encounter 2005
The Austin Healey Sport and Touring Club 
The Austin-Healey Sports and Touring Club – A Car Club for Healey, Austin-Healey, and Austin-Healey Sprite Owners and Enthusiasts with regions in New York, Pennsylvania, Delaware and New Jersey always puts on a great annual event referred to as “Encounter.” The event is held in August of each year and is typically attended by 200+ enthusiasts. A judged concours , popular vote car show, a rallye, tech sessions, a gymkhana and a flea market are just a few of the usual events. Click the link below to view an album of the event. http://www.flickr.com/photos/valve-chatter/sets/72157630734251084/
Conclave 2005
The Triad Austin Healey Club of America
The Triad Club of the AHCA hosted the 2005 Conclave in Winston-Salem, NC. the last week of June. The Conclave is typically about a week long affair with concourse judging, a rally, tech sessions, a funkhana, a gymkhana, and a popular car show among other events. Click the link below to view an album of the event. https://www.flickr.com/photos/valve-chatter/sets/72157630733926720/
Relay/Fuse Panel Location
As I have already indicated, my wiring harness design is very similar to Eric’s and I give him all the credit for thinking through the logic of the approach. However, we do differ in some respects.
I decided to mount my Classic Technologies Relay/Fuse Panel below the right side of the dash fascia, in front of the RH passenger seat. While in this photo it appears that its location would be obtrusive, it really is not.
Mounting of the Classic Technologies Fuse Panel
This will require the modification of the finish panel below the dash, but then that was going to have to happen anyway to accommodate the blower and vent for the air conditioning. Moving the relay/fuse panel to this location also eliminated a significant amount of wire from the engine bay.
As will be described below, the interior placement of the fuse panel also allowed me to use the original Jaguar fuse panel mounting assembly as a screen for three barrier blocks used in the engine bay for the high beams, low beams, horns, fog rangers, side lights, and ground connections.
Wiring Connections
As has been stated previously, I am “building up” this car to the point of being able to test the electrical system, drive train, air-conditioning, power assisted rack and pinion, upgraded brakes, motor, gearbox, overdrive and etc. I will then “take it down” again for paint, and then have a final reinstall of all components. I would not do this if I was truly restoring the car, but this is a mild rest-mod and I simply feel better testing everything in advance of paint.
Although it could well be properly classified as anal, I prepared a spreadsheet of basically every electrical connection in the car. I did this to use in conjunction with wiring diagrams. The diagrams alone just don’t give enough information about wire routing that the spreadsheet affords. The spreadsheet is still a work in progress. It needs some “cleaning” and I am sure I missed a few things, but I will modify as I go and will revise the spreadsheet as changes are made. I anticipate that this spreadsheet will be helpful when I reinstall the wiring in the car after paint.
Again, a disclaimer is appropriate: The spreadsheet is provided as guidance for those who might wish to do something similar, but it should not be duplicated or utilized without careful inspection and approval by a certified automotive electrician.
This alphabetical listing of components is provided to help quickly identify items in the electrical system. A spreadsheet line number(s) associated with the component is indicated.
Rose Jaguar MK2 Electrical Connections Alpha listing
This is the spreadsheet showing all connections:
Rose Jaguar MK2 Wiring Spreadsheet Modified 6-14-17
The Central Gauge/Instrument Panel
The instruments/gauges and switches included in the Instrument Panel Assembly are detailed in the post “Gauges, Instruments and Switches.” I wanted to make the panel truly modular so many of the wires emanating from the gauges and switches on the instrument panel assembly are routed through three Molex connectors. It is now possible to disconnect the three connectors and remove the Instrument Panel Assembly from the car. The wires associated with each of the Molex connectors are routed through a bracket with a large rubber grommet. From that point wires travel either through one of the ports on the firewall or to one of the barrier block terminals under the dash.
Two twelve station Molex connectors and one six station connector are utilized in my wiring plan.
Of course, the tape will disappear later and the wiring will have a little housecleaning.
Gauge Panel with Molex Connectors
Molex Connectors for Central Gauge Panel Assembly
I refer to these Molex Connectors as “A,” “B,” and C.” The individual wiring connections are shown below:
Rose Jaguar MK2 Molex A Connections
Rose Jaguar MK2 Molex B Connections
Rose Jaguar MK2 Molex C Connections
As suggested by Eric, I also used one small barrier terminal block behind the central gauge panel. This is used to accommodate our new hazard flasher system and the alarm chime to remind the driver upon exiting the car that the headlights are still on. The image below shows the eight position terminal block as originally conceived.
Jon Langley, a fellow restorer who has also elected to design his own electrical system for his MK2, pointed out that with this configuration opening any of the four doors would sound the alarm chime. So,…
Rose Jaguar MK2 Central Gauge Panel Barrier Terminal Block
He recommended the use of a twelve position terminal block and with this modification only the driver’s door will activate the chime.
Rose Jaguar MK2 Central Gauge Panel Barrier Terminal Block – Modified
Wiring Distribution throughout the Car
As I have already mentioned, I used barrier terminal blocks as connection points for the wiring distributed throughout the car. The LH blocks are located below and behind the steering column and the RH block is located to the right of the Classic Technologies Relay/Fuse Panel below the Cubby Box. This diagram illustrates the connection points and routes for the LH and RH terminal blocks. Clicking the image twice will make the diagram more readable!
Rose Jaguar MK2 Left and Right Barrier Terminal Blocks
There are three 4-gang barrier blocks mounted in the engine bay on the left hand valance under the original fuse panel. Each of the blocks have clear plastic covers. They provide connection points for the headlights, with low and high beam; the Fogranger fog lamps, the horns and the side lights. The image below provides a wiring diagram:
LH Valance Barrier Terminal Blocks
In addition, the photo below shows the three blocks installed.
Things may look a bit chaotic, but the three blocks are arranged the way they are so that they could be covered by the original fuse panel.
Barrier Block Terminals Under Original Fuse Panel Assembly
Of course, in my final harness the zip ties won’t be there and the wiring will be covered!
Grounding Bus Bar
To try to bring some order to the ground connections required by various components in the electrical system, I used bus bars with six terminal mounts in four locations throughout the car. There is one bus bar on both the LH and RH engine bay valance as well as one under the steering column and one under the console on the transmission/propshaft tunnel. These eliminated the need for individual ground connections scattered about the car.
This will provide for much easier tracking of ground connections.
Ground Bus Bar
Doors and Windows
Door Hinges
I decided against removing the hinge pins to “restore” the hinges. All the hinges were free moving but nice and tight with no discernible excess play. The door side of the hinge is aluminum while the body pillar side of the hinge is unpainted steel. It appeared that the hinges were painted while mounted on the car.
I removed the paint with paint remover, painted the bare metal side of the hinge with silver POR-15 (since I was leaving the hinges assembled, I could not zinc or cad plate the bare metal pieces), greased the hinges and tried them all for good fit with new bolts and screws sourced from SNG Barratt.
All of the adjustment in the door hinges is on the door side mounting. The hinges are fixed in place by captive nuts in the “A” and “B/C” pillars.
The hinges are now ready for assembly to the car when the time comes.
Cleaned Door Hinges
Painted with POR-15 Silver
Door Check Arm Assemblies
Each door has a check arm with a rubber buffer. The rubber buffer or stop is not available from the typical sources so I search for a suitable replacement material to use. I was unable to find anything that had the fabric rubber combination in the original stops. I media blasted each check arm and will have them zinc plated.
LH Front Door Check Arm Assembly
Front and Rear Check Arm Assemblies
Rezinced Door Check Straps
I ended up purchasing a 1/2″ thick Neoprene pad from Grainger and cut out the stops with a 1 1/8″ hole saw in my drill. Then using a 3/8″ and 5/8″ chisels I cut out the rectangular opening in each rubber stop. I will coat the circumference of the rubber with black silicone to provide some protection from moisture. I tried the stops on the check arms and installed one of the rear door check arms with the stop in a door. Everything seems to work well. Hopefully the new neoprene stops will hold up.
One and one eighth inch hole saw cut in half inch neoprene
Neoprene Rubber stops for Door Check Arms
Front and Rear Door Check Arms with Neoprene Rubber Stops
I am not yet at the point where I am ready to install door seals; however, I came across some photos and installation instructions on the Jag-Lovers web site that may prove helpful later. This is a link to the page:
http://www.jag-lovers.org/snaps/snap_view.php3?id=1354948688
Door Hinge Shims
The rear doors had hinge shims on the upper hinges. The LH with two shims and the RH with three. I media blasted the hinges and will then zinc plate them. All of the shims were the same thickness.
LH Rear Upper Shims
RH Rear Upper Shims
Installing the Mk2 Doors
I knew from other car restorations that door mounting is never fun, nor easy. I decided that I would practice mounting the MK2 doors a couple of times before doing the real thing after fresh paint had been applied!
First, I installed the exterior door handles on each door, because these become impossible or nearly impossible to access once the windows and there frames go into place. Additionally, this gives the person holding the door for mounting something comfortable and convenient to grasp while holding the door. Each handle has two #10-32 mounting studs with a flat washer, shakeproof washer and nut. The front of the handles had what appeared to be leather or fiber pads between the handle and the door when I removed them from the car. I replaced these with neoprene pads that I cut to shape. Once finally mounted, these can be cut to shape with a sharp razor knife.
Exterior Door handle with Neoprene Cushion
After wrestling with the door installation quite a bit, I finally concluded that the best approach is to first, bolt the hinges to the doors with the bolts barely started in the captured threaded plates. Then lift the doors to the car ( a second person, or a special purpose jack designed for the job, is particularly helpful here!) and then start the pozi-drive screws through the hinges into the “A” pillar or “B/C” pillar. Again, everything its barely started, nothing tightened. After all of the pozi-drive screws are mounted, it is then time to install the 5/16″-24 x 1″ hex head bolts through the center of the hinges into the pillars. The front door hinges also have the two 5/16″-24 interior lights switches that need to be started and these are located in the center of the lower hinges.
Door Fasteners
After all of the fasteners are started, it is then a matter of tightening the screws and bolts until they start to “hold” the door, but with adjustment (movement) still possible. Door gaps can then be manually sorted until you end up with what you want. This is a slow process requiring patience. I did all of this without the lock strikers installed. To simulate where the rear shut lines should be I rolled up some tape and then taped it to the door jam to buffer the closing of the door – the job that the seals will ultimately do.
Once the doors are where you want them, the door strikers can be installed. On my car, each of the door strikers had a shim. The strikers have quite a bit of adjustment and like the doors require a fair amount of “fiddling” until you end up with a door closure that you are happy with. More information about the door handles and locks can be found in this post: https://valvechatter.com/?p=6027
Window Regulator Installation
The front and rear regulators are different designs but the same procedures for installation apply. I found it easiest to compress (by turning the winding crank) the mechanism to its smallest size. Insert the mechanism into the door and then crank the winder the other direction to spread the regulator and align it with its mounting holes in the door. One can then loosely start the mounting screws to support the mechanism in the door. This process is best demonstrated in a video. The is the installation in a rear door of the Jag.
It is a fairly easy process once you get the hang of it.
As shown in the video, and in the image below, the rear door regulator mounts with six slotted 1/4″-28 x 5/16″ pan head machine screws.
LH Rear Door Window Regulator Mount and Lock remote Control
While the front door regulator mounts with four slotted 1/4″-28 x 5/16″ pan head machine screws as seen in the image below:
RH Front Door Regulator Mount with Four Screws
And, the spring/crank end of the regulator on the front door also mounts with four slotted 1/4″-28 x 5/16″ pan head machine screws:
RH Front Door Regulator Spring Mount with Four Screws
LH Front Door Window Regulator with all eight Mounting Screws
Installing Window Glass and the Window Frame
Before the window frames are installed, the four clips securing the weatherstripping to the interior side of the outside edge of each door need to be pushed onto the door. The image below shows the clips when I removed the window frames from the car:
Four Clips to Secure Weather Strip to Outer Door Edge
This image shows a section of the the weatherstripping in place and secured to the mounting clip:
Door Weather Strip and Mounting Clips
The image below shows a front window glass with the regulator “wheels” in the window channels
Front Window Glass and Regulator
The image below shows a front window frame with the lower mounting points on the legs of the frame:
Front Window Frame
This process is also best described with a short video:
With the front window the procedure is the same except that the tracks are initially in front of the regulator rollers and one pushes the window rearward to advance it onto the rollers. This graphic shows the window frame sliding into the regulator:
Window Mounting to Regulator
The Service Manual has a nice graphic illustration that shows the window frame securing points once you have the frame positioned in the door.
Window Frame Securing Screws
Before the window frames are secured to the doors, the Service Manual indicates that a layer of sealing compound should be placed on the door frame just below the front and rear ventilators. I refer to this material as dum-dum made by 3-M. I will use a home made rubber gasket probably combined with dum-dum to help seal the area and keep water out. This is an example of what I found upon taking the window frames out of the car:
Dum Dum Sealer Below Window Frame
Dum Dum Window Frame Sealer
Each of the four door window frames is secured at the top of the door with four slotted #10-32 x 3/4″ pointed pan head machine screws. The mounting points for the rear doors are slightly different than the front doors as shown in the graphic, but all doors use the same number of screws. The window frames can also slightly slide rearward or forward for proper fitment. These screws should be loosely fitted to the door and window frame, but not tightened yet.
Window Frame Mounting Screws #10-32 x 3/4″
Front and Rear Adjustment of Window Frame
The height of the window frame is adjusted with the insertion of special shims, or packing pieces as they are called in the Service Manual, as needed. On my car, two sizes of shims were used.
Window Frame Mounting Shims
Window Frame Packing Pieces
LH Front Door – Rear of window used one packing piece; the front of the window used two packing pieces of different sizes.
RH Front Door – Rear of window used two packing pieces of the same size; the front of the window used two packing pieces of different sizes.
LH Rear Door – Rear of window used one packing piece; the front of the window used one packing piece.
RH Rear Door – Rear of window used one packing piece; the front of the window used one packing piece.
Once the window frame height seems to be right, the two lower securing points are fastened with a single 1/4″-28 x 1-1/4″ hex head bolt with a serrated washer and plain washers. Originally wooden discs or “packing pieces” were used at the lower leg fastening points to tilt the top of the window frame inward toward the rubber door seal. My car actually had a combination of wood and some hard rubber packing pieces. My wooden packing pieces were deteriorated and I will be using 1-1/2″ diameter nylon spacers with 1/4″ diameter center holes as replacements.
Once the window frame is in the proper position front to back ( “The window frame should clear the front screen pillar by 1/16”), the Service Manual instructs that the window frame post lower mount, with its packing pieces, farthest away from the door hinges should be tightened first. Then refit and tighten the front lower mounting point. Finally tighten the four pan head screws at the window frame top mounting points.
Original Window Lower Packing Pieces and Mounting Point
Original Window Frame Upper Mounting Screws and Lower Spacers with Bolts
Modern Window Frame Lower Spacers and Mounting Bolts
After the regulators, window glasses, window frames, weather stripping, and sealants are installed and the frames are properly adjusted the next to last step of the process will be to reinstall vinyl around the doors moving parts and to apply plastic sheeting to keep water inside the door and not in the interior! These photos show the original application:
Rear Door Plastic Sealer Sheet, Vinyl Anti-rattle Cushions
Front Door Plastic Sealer Sheet, Vinyl Anti-rattle Cushions
Eric Kriss provided an excellent explanation of this process on his Jaguar MK2 Restoration site. http://fairislepress.com/WP/?p=10706 He suggests that Jaguar placed the vinyl protectors to keep the window and door lock mechanism from fouling the plastic sheet. As Eric did, I will make some new ones using the old as patterns and glue them to the doors. Eric used a 4 mil plastic sheet with 3M 08621 Window-Weld 5/16″ Round Ribbon Sealer to fix the plastic sheets to the doors. Having used this material before I know that it is pliable, very sticky and reversible. Eric applied the ribbon sealer to the door and then pressed the plastic sheet to it using a rubber roller. I will do the same. This is a photo taken from Eric’s site:
Eric’s Door Plastic Seal Sheet
The next step is to install the foam rubber cushions that fit to the window cranks and door handles before the casings go on. Again, this photo is from Eric’s site.
Foam Rubber Buffers at Handles
Finally, it is a matter of installing the door trim casings and the window crank handles and the door handles.
I will post more about this later. But for now I just want to record that it looks like I will need about 75″ of window channel track felt for each of the rear door windows and about 80″ for each of the front door windows.
Particularly since the MK2 is a four door sedan (saloon) I want to add the modern convenience of centrally operated electric door locks and while I am at it I might as well add a keyless entry feature.
These kits are quite inexpensive and I purchased mine from A1 Electric. https://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AEOS&Product_Code=W02F-712T This kit includes most everything that is needed. The locking part of the kit is advertised as being Swiss made.
This is an image of the contents of the kit:
W02F MES Central Door Locking Kit with Keyless Entry
This image illustrates the dimensions of one of the actuators:
Actuator Dimensions
These are the installation instructions provided with the kit:W01F & W02F MES Central Door Locking Kit Installation Instructions
Mounting the Actuators to the Rear Doors
I began the installation of the four lock actuators with the RH rear door. Because the door window and lock hardware were not mounted to the door, I first installed these components. I did so to be sure that the actuator did not conflict with the operation of the window. Information on the installation of the window and lock components is provided in the “Door Handles and Locks” website entry https://valvechatter.com/?p=6027 and the “Doors and Windows” website entry https://valvechatter.com/?p=5485
The kit incorporates mounting hardware including a yellow zinc bendable strap and the necessary screws. These images show the location of the rear door actuators (both doors are the same).
Lock Actuator RH Rear Door
Lock Actuator RH Rear Door
It was necessary to drill three holes in the door: two for the strap and one for the actuator body.
Connecting the Actuators to the Rear Door Locks
Connecting the actuator to the door lock is not difficult, but it is a little complicated to explain. The schematic diagram provided in the Service Manual on page 450 N.24 is helpful.
Jag MK2 Door Lock Mechanism Schematic
While most of the mechanism for the front and rear door are the same, there are some distinctions. The rear door components are shown in the small enclosed box in the diagram above. The connecting link (E) with a spring in the diagram is for the front door and the connecting link (Ea), without a spring, shown in the box and in the image below is for the rear doors.
Lock Connecting Links Front and Rear
These connecting links do what their name implies: they connect the door handle locking mechanism and the remote control to the door lock and striker plate.I use the connecting links for both front and rear doors to connect the actuator rod, supplied in the kit, to the car’s locking mechanism. This is accomplished through the use of a small rod clamp that is provided in the kit.
Actuator Rod Clamp
The clamp has two set screws – one to attach the block to the connecting link (The factory lock rod in the diagram) and the other to connect to the actuator’s rod.
Actuator, Actuator rod and Rod Clamp
For the rear doors, to facilitate connection of the components without interference with the window frame, I chose to disconnect the connector link at the dowel (F) shown in the diagram at the top of the page. This will mean that the rear doors will not be locked and unlocked using the door handles which is of no matter to me since the actuators will be doing the job.
I then straighten the connecting link (removed the bends) and used it for the new connection to the connector block. To make the connection, the Actuator Rod needed to be bent slightly.
After installing the actuators in both rear doors, I tested them with a power source and was satisfied that they both operated effectively. The photos below show where the rod clamp attaches to the rod and to the connecting link. The position will be important when final assembly occurs.
LH Rear Door Lock Connecting Link
RH Rear Door Lock Connecting Link Position
Mounting the Actuators to the Front Doors
Because the door window and lock hardware were not mounted to the door, I first installed these components. I did so to be sure that the actuator did not conflict with the operation of the window. Information on the installation of the window and lock components is provided in the “Door Handles and Locks” website entry https://valvechatter.com/?p=6027 and the “Doors and Windows” website entry https://valvechatter.com/?p=5485
The front doors are a bit more of a challenge when contrasted with the rear doors.
To keep the actuator in a vertical position, I decided to open a hole in the door interior face. The hole can be seen in the following image:
RH Front Door Modification for Actuator
As with the rear door actuators, the front actuators are mounted to the door with two, kit provided, 1″ self tapping screws.
Connecting the Actuators to the Front Door Locks
Unlike the rear doors, I want to use the interior door handle to activate the lock/unlock mechanical mechanism so I kept the original connecting link secured to the lever on the dowel on the door lock (F) in the schematic above. As suggested in the Service Manual I mounted the connecting link in the center position. But, after some experimentation. I found that the most forward position of the three worked best in my case. The photos below show where the rod clamp attaches to the rod and to the connecting link. The position will be important when final assembly occurs.
The kit directions make the following point: The alignment of the front door actuators (5 wire) on the MES lock kit is very important to proper operation. If the actuators are not properly aligned and centered it will cause the system to rapidly lock and unlock the doors or not allow you to lock or unlock the doors.
LH Front Door Lock Connecting Link
LH Front Door Lock Connecting Link Mounting Position
RH Front Connecting Link Mounting Position
RH Front Door Lock Connecting Link Forward Mounting Position
It is necessary to drill holes in the “A” pillar, the rear face of the “B/C” pillar and in the face of each of the doors to facilitate the travel of the electrical wiring for the operation of the actuators. To protect the wiring and to yield a finished look, some type of wiring loom or boot is needed. I searched for some time trying to find a product that I liked. Hot Rodders often use a stainless loom such as the pair in the image below:
Stainless Door Wiring Loom
In reality, these are quite large and in my opinion just don’t look proper on the Jaguar. I was also concerned about these making a rubbing noise inside the doors when they were operated.
I never did find anything that was totally satisfying; however, I did locate some soft rubber looms that seems to offer the best option for me. They are very flexible and will compress and extend nicely. These came from Summit Racing but are produced by Electric-Life Power Windows and Accessories: https://www.electric-life.com/product/4301-70-011-58-diameter-flexible-inclined-rubber-tuber/ part number – 4301-70-011 5/8″ diameter Flexible Inclined Rubber Tube. To install it was necessary to drill a 3/4 hole in the pillar and the door at each location.
Rubber Door Loom
Rear Door Rubber Loom Installation
Front Door Rubber Loom Installation
Wiring
The electrical control circuit for the power locking system is comprised of two components. The first is the MES central locking system that will function properly without the addition of the wireless entry unit. In fact, the directions specify full installation and system testing of the MES central locking system alone. Only after the MES central locking system is functioning as it should, does one then add the keyless entry unit.
The MES control module is the turquoise blue box in the photo at the top of this post. A five way relay and a spade connector for ground wires is incorporated into the control module. I decided to mount the control module below the newspaper shelf and behind the radio. I installed several nutserts into the brace below the newspaper shelf to mount relays. The MES control module is secured with one #10-24 x 1/2″ machine screw and shake proof washer.
MES Control Module Mounting
I chose to locate the AVITAL 2101/712T keyless entry module on the chassis brace behind and below the cubby box. This location is also directly above where I chose to locate the Classic Technologies Fuse Box. The AVITAL unit has four mounting tabs; however, it weighs next to nothing so I used only two of the mounts with two #10-24 x 1/2″ machine screws and shake proof washers.
I apologize for the wiring mess in the photo. I will clean all this up upon final installation.
Nutserts installed to mount keyless entry module
AVITAL keyless entry module mounted
The actual wiring circuit for the central locking/keyless entry system may be found at the “New Wiring Harness Circuits” web site entry: https://valvechatter.com/?p=8114
The wiring for this project is fairly easy to install, however, because of the connections that must be made between the MES central locking system and the AVITAL keyless entry component, the schematic for the wiring does appear to be fairly complicated.
After installing the four door actuators and rod linkages, the two control modules, and all the wiring I energized the system and everything worked beautifully. I anticipate that this is one feature that I will enjoy. Having to lock and unlock the rear doors by reaching into the car and adjusting the handle could be a bit of a nuisance. Modern cars have spoiled us (me).
Inspired by Kevin Moore’s MK2 center console arm rest modification, I endeavored to create my own. I knew that I wanted to use an arm rest pad that would not look home-made, and that would also house the controls for the power seats and a USB dual port. These are images of Kevin’s console/arm rest:
Kevin Moore’s Console/Arm Rest
Kevin Moore’s Console/Arm Rest
I think that Kevin’s execution is spot on and well done. I can only hope that mine turns out as well!
My project began with an arm rest pad/lid and storage tray that I purchased on eBay. I believe they were from a mid-eighties XJ6. The size and shape of the arm rest determined the ultimate measurements of the box I would build. The XJ40 electrically controlled power seats in my car mount slightly rearward of the original MK2 seats so I determined that I would add a couple of inches of sheet metal to the rear end of the original MK2 console/heater pipe cover. I should also mention that I am not using the heater pipes to the rear in my car. Moving the “box” rearward also gives more room for shifting the gearbox.
These are the outside dimensions of the “box” I constructed:
Rose MK2 Console-Arm Rest Dimensions
I constructed the “box” from a 1/2″ PVC panel. I chose the material primarily because it doesn’t absorb any moisture, but I also found that it is very easy to work with – much easier than plywood or some other composite material. A few 1-1/2″ poplar wood braces were also used for extra support. The panels of the box were all cut on a portable construction table saw, the holes for the seat switches were cut with a hand held saber saw, and the holes for the USB ports were cut using a hole saw.
My next step will be to cut matching panels from 1/8″ PVC. These will then be glued to the 1/2″ panels. This will completely cover all of the screw heads and mounting indentations and should produce a nice finished surface for the leather. Ultimately, I will mount the “box” to the original heater pipe cover and to the prop shaft tunnel as Kevin did.
These are a few images with the “box” just sitting (not mounted) in position:
Console Arm Rest RH Front View
Console Arm Rest LH Front View
Console Arm Rest LH View
The following two images show the mounting of the electrical switches in the front and the twin USB ports in the rear. The screws in the face plate of the USB mounting bracket will be replaced with black screws. As I mentioned previously, additional sheet metal will be added to the end of the heater pipe cover so that it matches flush with the rear edge of the “box.”
Console Arm Rest Seat Controls
Console Arm Rest USB Ports
The last two images show the interior of the box with and without the storage tray:
Console Arm Rest Box Interior
Console Arm Rest Storage Tray
Of course, the beige arm pad, the grey seats and the red original heater pipe cover will all get reupholstered in a single color leather!
Although my MK2 could have had power assisted steering from the factory, it did not. I elected to add an electric power steering pump and rack and pinion steering to my car. The kit was purchased from M&C Wilkinson in the UK. http://www.mandcwilkinson.com The kit uses a combined power steering pump and reservoir that is mounted in a supplied bracket. It is frankly a bit unsightly sitting next to the polished cam covers and porcelain exhaust manifolds of the 3.8 Jag power plant! However, I was resigned to leaving it as it was until Mike Gassman, owner of Gassman Automotive http://www.gassmanautomotive.com, convinced me that a cover should be made.
Make and his welder/fabricator Brandon Tyree designed and fabricated the cover seen below. It mounts to the LH engine bay valance with only two 10-24 x 1/2″ machine screws. One simply unscrews the two screws and removes the reservoir cap then lift away the cover. It will be painted gloss black to match the heater box.
I have to say that as usual Mike was correct and Brandon’s cover came out quite nice in my view!
Electrical Connections Box and Power Steering Pump-Reservoir Cover
Power Steering Pump/Reservoir Cover
This is a short video showing the removal and installation of the cover:
Front Seating
Following considerable thought I have decided to install front seats from a later model Jaguar in my MK2. At first I pursued the original tilting seats that were available from Jaguar as an option at the time. I actually found and purchased a pair. they were in rough shape, but the frames were just fine and that was all I was really after.
Jag MK2 Optional Tilting Seats
Jag MK2 Optional Tilting Seats
However, after seeing the installation of Daimler seats in Ton Tulleken’s restored Jaguar MK2, I decided that I must have the same seats for my restoration! Ton’s site is in Dutch but the photos work in all languages.
I could not locate any Daimler seats in the U.S. so I turned to Ton who is from the Netherlands and he was able to help me. Hendrikus Alkema who runs and owns New and Used Parts Jaguar Daimler in the Netherlands had a full set of 1990 Daimler seats available. I ordered the two front seats as well as all four headrests from the car. The seats came complete with the wiring harnesses and switches.
The seats arrived two days after the order was placed! DHL had them on my doorstep. On one of the seats the lumbar support knob was broken in transit, but Hendrikus sent a replacement to me right away.
1990 Daimler Front Seats
1990 Daimler Front Seats
The picnic tables on these seats are particularly nice and much more functional than the ones on the MK2 seats.
1990 Daimler Front Seat Picnic Table
1990 Daimler Front Seat Picnic Table Open
The seats I purchased are slightly different than Ton’s as my headrests are not adjustable. I will have the seats recovered over new seat foams when the time comes.
Of course, the primary advantage of these seats is their adjustability. Each seat has four motors. Two for the lower and two for the upper cushion. The seats also have seat heaters (non-functional apparently) and the driver’s seat has a memory function.
Most folks cut down the height of the floor brace in the interior to install the modern seats; however, Ton did not do that and I am going to at least try it this way before cutting them back. I like the idea of being able to go back to the original seats if I, or another owner, decided to do so in the future. As Ton did, I made a brace for the seat frames from angle iron and had them welded to the frames. I will then drill them for mounting through the original holes of the seat supports into the floor brace.
Front Foot on XJ40 seat frame
XJ40 seat frame front foot
XJ40 seat frame front foot removed
The front foot shown in the image above must first be removed.
New front mounting bracket in place with front foot removed
The image above shows the new bracket in place prior to welding to the seat frame.
Floor Brace and seat mounting captured nuts
The image above shows the four holes with captive nuts in the floor brace that are used to mount the new seat frame to the floor.
The wiring had its own set of challenges. Details about the wing may be found in the “Building a Wiring Harness” post.
Ton suggested making “skirts” for the lower portion of the seats so that the seat mounting frames would not be visible when the door is opened. I followed suit. Brandon Tyree, metal welder/fabricator at Gassman Automotive, made the skirts from sheet metal for me. These will be covered with leather/vinyl when the interior upholstery is finished.
Brandon welded metal tabs to the seat frames so that the sheet metal skirts can be screwed to the tabs to mount them to the seats. These are designed so that the skirts will move with the seats when the power functions of the seats are used.
LH Side Front Seat Skirt
Locating Tabs for LH Side Front Seat Skirt
LH Side Front Seat Skirt Installed
This is an image of his finished product:
Ton Tulken’s Front Seat Skirts
Original Seat Mounting
Seat Supports
Details on the removal of the seat runner assemblies or seat supports may be found in the disassembly note, entry 45 https://valvechatter.com/?p=1803, and entry 6 https://valvechatter.com/?p=297.
Each support is mounted to the floor brace with four 1/4″ – 28 x 5/8″ pointed tip, slotted machine screws with flat and shakeproof washers. The rear mount for the seat to the seat support is a 1/4″ – 28 x 1″ hex head bolt with shakeproof washers. An insulation pad was found cut to fit under each seat support.
I removed the vinyl from each of the four supports, media blasted them and painted with POR-15 to be covered with new vinyl later.
Seat Supports
Seat Supports
Seat Supports
Seat Supports
I media blasted the four seat supports and prepared them for painting:
Front Seat Support
Front Seat Support
Seat Supports Painted
The original electrical system on them MK2 was protected by two fuses. The fuse block was located on the control box bracket assembly mounted on the LH engine bay valance. The voltage regulator and the horn relay were also located inside the control box. The bracket assembly had a metal cover secured by a thumb screw that protected the electrical connections to the relay and fuse block.
Original Control Block, Bracket Assembly and Cover
As explained in other electrical system entries to this website, I am using the Classic Technologies fuse/relay panel that provides for 15 fused circuits with 34 pin connectors, 7 relays including horn, ignition power, fog lights, high beams and low beams headlights, starter and accessory power and 2 flashers for the turn signals and hazard lights. The Classic technologies Fuse Box is located under the dash fascia on the RH side of the interior.
Classic Technologies Fuse and Relay Box
In my revised wiring system I used the bracket assembly as a cover for three barrier blocks used for wiring runs to the front of the car. I know the terminals and wiring appear a hodgepodge but it was necessary to configure them in this fashion to hide them all under the bracket assembly!
Barrier Block Terminals Under Original Fuse Panel Assembly
The top of the bracket assembly was then used to mount a number of other electrical connections:
Power Steering Pump Alternator Fogranger Wiring on Bracket Assembly
The original control box cover would no longer cover, nor fit, the bracket assembly. I turned to Brandon Tyree, welder/fabricator at Gassman Automotive http://www.gassmanautomotive.com to fabricate a new electrical connections box cover. The images below show the cover. In final form it will be painted gloss black to match the heater box. The box is mounted to the valance with two 10-24 x 1/2″ machine screws and the original thumb screw slightly repurposed. Four slots were designed into the face of the box to permit heat to escape. The box sits very close to the exhaust manifolds and I did not want it to collect the heat.
Electrical Connections Box and Power Steering Pump-Reservoir Cover
Electrical Connections Box and Power Steering Pump Cover
Electrical Connections Box and Power Steering Pump-Reservoir Cover
Electrical Connections Box Cooling Vents