Front Hub Assemblies and Brakes

Continuing with the front suspension rebuild, we assembled the swivel pins (stub axles) to the hubs and brake rotors. New king pins were installed in the axles after new bushings were fitted and reamed. New grease zerks were fit and poly bushes were installed in the upper trunnion.

Front Suspension
Front suspension Components

We did a fair amount of research regarding the proper ball bearings to use for the Sprite/Midget front suspension. Bearings from the usual British parts suppliers don’t seem to completely replicate the original bearings used as manufactured. A British supplier, Ransome and Marles, https://www.ransomeandmarles.co.uk does sell the original ball bearings. They are pricey, but in this case the quality and value seem worth the price. Proper fit and tight tolerances are important! The bearings came with a new oil seal as well. We packed the bearings with high quality bearing grease and installed them in the hubs and then installed the oil seals.

Front Hub assembly
R&M Bearings and Lucas Bearings Comparison

We then secured the new brake rotors to the hubs with the original four bolts and torqued each to 40 ft. lbs. The brake dust shields must be attached to the swivel axles with the one hex bolt before the hub and rotor are slipped onto the swivel axle.

Dust Shields Installed

Once the hub and rotor and the swivel axle are mated the tab washer can be installed on the axle followed by the castle nut. The nut is then torqued to 46 ft. lbs and then rotated clockwise until the hole in the axle lines up with an opening in the castle nut. A cotter pin can then be inserted and bent back although we will wait to bend the pin until the hub assemblies are actually on the car.

Tab washer on stub axle
Hub Assemblies

 

The new brake calipers sourced from Moss Motors were then installed on the hub assembly. As the accompanying video shows, the two 7/16″ bolts that secure the calipers to the assembly pass through the locking tab washer, the brake hose locating bracket, the dust shield, the caliper and then into the swivel axle. These bolts are torqued to 50 ft. lbs. Again, we will wait to bend back the tab washer until the hub assemblies are on the car.

The proper steering arms were then fastened to the hub assembly along with a tab washer that will be bent back later.

Calipers Installed on Hub assemblies

Classic Gold brake pads purchased from Moss Motors were installed into the calipers along with shims. The shims were coated with a Permatex lubricant designed for this purpose. The pads are extremely tight against the rotor. We tried releasing the bleeder valve and pushing back the pistons but this did not rectify the problem.

Brake caliper with classic gold pads

Some EBC green pads were ordered to see if they might fit better. 

The Episode 32 video shows the process of the hub and brake assembly: https://vimeo.com/797978369/33c374192a

0:00 – New king pins in swivel axles

0:25 – Axle grease zerks and poly bushes in the upper trunnion

1:10 – Ransome and Marles ball bearings on axle

2:10 – Bearings installation

2:43 – Packing bearings with grease

4:20 – Tapping bearings into the hub and installing the spacer

6:50 – Install oil seals in hub

7:05 – Brake rotors fastened to the hub

7:40 – Dust shield installation

8:20 – Tab washer installation on axle shaft

8:42 – Castle nut on axle shaft torqued to 46 ft. lbs.

9:10 – Brake calipers, brake hose brackets, tab washers installed

11:10 – Steering arms with tab washers installed

11:40 – Classic Gold brake pads and shims installed

 

Heater Blower, Fuel Pump Bracket, Washer Bottle and Bracket Removal

We have yet to decide if the heater will be retained in the restored car. Living in southern Florida makes the heater unnecessary, so we may just carefully store the blower and heater box with matrix away for safe keeping to be used at a later date. So, we removed the heater blower and documented the heater blower wiring.

The Old Fuel Pump Mounting Bracket Removed

Smiths Heater Blower Removed

The heater air-flow control cable is disconnected and the dash heater control switch is described in the accompanying video.

Heater and Fresh Air Control Cable

Since the SU fuel pump has been relocated to the rear of the car, the “under bonnet” fuel pump bracket is removed.

The Old Fuel Pump Mounting Bracket Removed

Fuel Pump Bracket

We won’t be needing the brake lights so the pressure switch wiring is documented and disconnected.

Brake Pressure Switch Wiring

The wiper motor mounts are loosened to allow a slight shifting of the motor to make it a bit easier to install the new “Sebring-type” pedal box and finally, the washer bottle with its bracket are removed.

Windscreen Washer Bottle and Bracket Removed

The Episode Thirty-one video shows the actions related to the items above:

https://vimeo.com/795889672/fc43b0721c

The following steps are addressed in the video:

0:24 – Heater Blower removal

1:00 – Heater Blower wiring

1:35 – Fuel Pump bracket removal

1:48 – Wiring harness to the front of the car

2:14 – Heater control switch and air flow control cable removal

3:15 – Brake pressure switch and wiring

3:55 – Wiper motor mounts

4:15 – Washer bottle and bracket removal

 

Horns, Air Intake, Steering Rack, Pedal Box Removal

This post covers the cleaning of the horns, the fresh air intake, the RH radiator brace and the old steering rack. A comparison of the old and new steering racks is made. The pedal box assembly with the single dual chamber master cylinder is removed from the car. New aluminum polished pedal covers are installed on the pedals of the new dual master “Sebring-type” pedal box. The replacement of the brake hydraulic pipes is begun with the removal of the pipe from the master cylinder to the brake pipe union.

The Hella horns were cleaned and the wiring checked out:

Horn with Mounting Bracket

Horn with wiring

Cleaned Horns

Fresh Air Intake Cleaned:

Fresh Air Intake

RH Radiator Brace

The original twin chamber master cylinder and pedal box were removed:

Twin Chamber 3/4″ Master Cylinder

Original Pedal Box and Push Rods

To be replaced with a “Sebring-Type” pedal box with separate 3/4″ master cylinders. New aluminum drilled and polished pedal covers were installed on the brake and clutch pedals:

Sebring-Type Pedal Box with Separate Master Cylinders

Aluminum Pedal Covers

 

This Video Episode Thirty shows the content described above:

https://vimeo.com/795013969/b024bf4392

The following steps are addressed in the video:

1:30 – Cleaning the horns, fresh air intake, RH radiator brace, and old steering rack. 

3:40 – Brake/Clutch master cylinder (Sebring-Type)

5:13 – Pedal Box removal

5:35 – Installation of new aluminum pedal brake and clutch pedal covers

6:08 – Removal of brake pipe from master cylinder to brake union