Exterior Lights

Posted on March 3, 2016 by valv8988

Headlamps

Headlamp Schematic

Cars exported to the USA all had sealed beam headlights.

Headlamp

Mounting and Adjusting Screws

Four #10 – 32 x 1/2″ slotted cheese head screws with flat and shakeproof washers fasten the lamp assembly to the car’s body. The rubber seal is located between the body and the lamp bowl. Their location is shown in the Lamp Diagram.

Headlamp Complete

Headlamp Bowl

Headlamp Seal

Two special trimmer screws are used to adjust the bulb setting. These are located at roughly 9 o’clock and 1 o’clock as seen in the diagram.

Trimmer Screws

A chrome #8 slotted self tapping screw is removed from the spire nut at the bottom of the lamp to free the outer chrome trim ring.

Spire Nut

Three #6 phillips head screws fasten together the chrome retaining ring and the galvanized unit seating rim . These screws are located at 11, 7, and 2 o’clock. They align with the oblong holes in the lamp bowl.

Headlamp Rims

The seating rim is held to the bowl with a Spring, Fixing Unit Seating Rim.

The bulb adaptor wiring sits behind the bulb and its wiring feeds through the rubber seal in the back of the bucket. New plug adapters were sourced from British Wiring and all the wiring was replaced with new.

Sealed Beam Unit Adaptor and Bulb Retaining Spring

Headlamp Buckets Ready to Paint

Painted Headlamp Bucket

Dust Excluder behind headlight Outer Rim and Headlamp Body Gasket

I decided to upgrade the lighting from the original sealed beams and ordered the halogen kit available from SNG Barratt. The Hella lamp number is 1A6 002.395-031 and the bulb is Autolamps Halogen, 472 12V 60/55W P43T. Generating a 5amp requirement per bulb.

Hella Halogen Headlamps

Headlamp Outer Rim

I had the original headlamp rims rechromed and they look great! These images show the headlights installed temporarily for electric circuit testing. They are not adjusted for focal point.

Headlight Dust Excluder in Place

Headlight Installed with Newly Chromed Trim Ring

Front Flasher Lamp

The front flasher lamps consist of a chrome rim, a clear lens, lens retaining wires, a lens seating gasket, a bulb holder and seating plate, the terminal sleeve, a 21 watt bulb (C.9126), and a rubber body.

Front Flasher Lamp

My original seating plates were in good shape; however, I replaced the lens, retaining wires, lens seating gasket, chrome rim, and rubber body with new items.

New Assembled Front Flashers

Seating Plate

Seating Plates

Rubber Boot

I also disassembled the wiring terminal in the fixture and installed new wiring in the lamp. When assembled to the car, the three machine screws securing the rubber boot to the car body should not be over-tightened as this makes snapping on the chrome lens surround almost impossible! New LED flasher bulbs “382Flashers” were sourced from 4Sight Automotive and installed as substitutes for the original incandescent bulbs.

Original 21 Watt Bulb with New LED

Turn Signal Flasher with LED Installed

I added all new sleeving for the wiring of all of the lamps in the car.

More information about the wiring for the flasher lamps may be found at the Building a New Wiring Harness post.

Front Flasher Turn signal

Tail Lights

MK2 Tail Light

The tail light is comprised of two lens halves. These halves are held together by a chrome clip, between the flasher and the stop/tail lens. A chrome shield also separates the two halves to prevent light bleed from one lens to the other. A metal mounting plate also holds the halves together and serves as the base for the assembly to the chrome plinth. The mounting plate is secured to the plastic lens with six 3/8″ self-tapping screws. A rubber gasket then seals the unit to the plinth. The lens assembly is secured to the plinth with a top clip on the metal mounting plate and with a chrome machine screw at the bottom.

I was able to use the original metal mounting plates and screws, but purchased new lenses, the chrome clips, the shields, and rubber gaskets.

Taillight with Shield

Tail Light Assembled

Tail Light Parts

I had the two rear tail light plinths rechromed as they were pitted badly. I still need to install the reflectors and then the lights will look quite good. Each light assembly fastens to the body with two screws. The lower is a Whitworth fillister screw 1 1/4″ long and it fastens to a captive nut in the body. The upper mount is a stud in the assembly that goes through a mounting hole in the body and then has a washer and nut on the interior side. The original upper bulb is an 1156 and the lower bulb is an 1157. However, as with the other exterior lights, these bulbs were replaced with LED flasher bulbs “382Flashers” and “380HP LED stop & tail light bulbs” sourced from 4Sight Automotive . I was able to use the original wiring leads.

Tail Light Assemblies New Chrome Missing Reflectors

Tail Lights Assembled with Lucas Reflectors

Tail Light LED Bulbs

Lucas FogRanger Fog Lamps

The original FogRanger lamps were functional and certainly reusable, but they are such a visible component of the front-end appearance of the MK2, that I decided to purchase new lamps. The embellishers were in good shape, so I was able to clean, polish and assemble with the new lamps. All new wiring was used and while I did not use LED bulbs for the Fograngers, I did install new Autolamps 12 volt, 48 Watt bulbs in both lamps, sourced from SNG Barratt.

Fogranger Bulb 12V 48W SNG Barratt

Fogranger Fog Lamp

FogRanger Lamp Assemblies

Fog Lamp Embellisher

This is an image of the RH Fogranger lamp temporarily installed on the car. As with the headlights, the fograngers are not adjusted for proper angles at this point. This installations was merely to test electric circuits and switches.

RH Fogranger Installed

Side Lamps

The MK2 has small side lamps on the top of each front wing. Each lamp has a rubber “O” Ring Gasket between the chrome trim ring and the body of the car, and the lamps are secured to the body with a chrome machine screw. The lamps use 4 watt bulbs C. 12249.

RH Turn Indicator

The lamps were in good working order so I just cleaned them, rewired them, replaced the incandescent bulbs with LEDs and new “O” Rings with new chrome mounting screws. The “O” rings that came with that were sourced from SNG Barratt were too thick for my installation. I ended up using metric rings that are 24mm – 2mm and I purchased them from McMaster-Carr. The screws are oval head #6-40 (I believe) x 3/4″.

Sidelamp

A small red indicator lens for side lamps mounts on the top of each body wing flare for the lights. I ordered new plastic indicators that are held in place by a metal slide clip.

Side Lamps

New LED Bayonet Bulbs

Side Lamp on Body

All new wiring and sleeving was added to the side lamps.

RH Side Lamp Wiring & Sleeving

The side lamp is removed from the body by turning the rim clockwise and then withdrawing the lamp. A “bump” in the lamp body must align with a slot in the body.

Sidelamp Fitting

Refurbished side lamps installed

Number plate illumination and reverse lamp

Number Plate Illumination & Reverse Lamp

The chrome housing is mounted to the body with a plastic gasket between the two. Within the housing is a plastic shroud assembly and a metal bulb holder. There are three 6 watt bulbs (C.12249) to illuminate the number plate and luggage compartment, I replaced these with “233 Multi LEDs” sourced from 4Sight Automotive. The one 21 watt bulb (C.9126) for the reverse light was replaced with a “382 High Power LED. There is a bulb shield gasket and a gasket between the shroud and the clear glass lens.

233 Multi LEDs to replace 12v 6w incandescent in boot lamp

382 reversing LED in boot lamp

I was able to clean and reuse all of the components with the exception of the rubber gaskets within the lamp which were replaced with new items. The original seal between the lamp and the body was cleaned and renewed. The lamp was rechromed.

Although the wiring harness was in good condition, I replaced it with new wiring.

Boot Lamp with new wiring harness

Gaskets and Seals

Shroud and Lens

Classic Technologies Relay/Fuse Panel

Posted on December 1, 2015 by valv8988

Wiring System Upgrade

The Fuse/Relay Panel

The heart of the original Jaguar MK2 electrical system was a fuse panel assembly located on the LH engine bay valance under the bonnet. The fuse panel bracket assembly houses the RB310 Voltage Control Box (Regulator), the Fuse Box unit, and the Horn Relay. It has a metal top protecting the internal components which is secured by a knurled chrome thumb screw or knob. My panel was pretty rusty but cleaned up nicely with media blasting and was then powder coated black.

Today it is hard to imagine that the fusing of the entire electrical system of the car was handled by two fuses!

Fuse Unit

I am upgrading the electrical system and will be using an alternator with an internal regulator to replace the dynamo or generator. This action will eliminate the need for the voltage control box. I will use a modern Bosch automotive relay for the horns which will eliminate the need for the original Lucas horn relay. Finally, I am upgrading from the original Model SF6 fuse unit with the two glass fuses of 35 amps and 50 amps to a modern fuse/relay panel supplied by Marc Goldblatt, owner of Classic Technologies. http://www.classic-technologies.com I will be able to utilize the base of the original fuse panel bracket assembly with Marc’s fuse/relay panel and will therefore keep the fuse connections at the same location as original to the car. Marc’s panel can be mounted horizontally or vertically and I will not make a final decision on the orientation until I have the engine in place for trial fitting.

This is a link to a short video that Marc Goldblatt made about his product.

The Classic Technologies fuse/relay panel provides for 15 fused circuits with 34 pin connectors, 7 relays including horn, ignition power, fog lights, high beams and low beams headlights, starter and accessory power and 2 flashers for the turn signals and hazard lights. I selected the optional relays for LED lights.

Classic Technologies Relay Fuse Panel

The new harness is simplified and made up of discrete runs from the fuse box to the switch or accessory. The enclosure for the fuse box is 16 gauge steel with a powder coated finish that is silk screened for easy identification of the fuses, relays and terminations. The Classic Technologies panel is only 6 3/4″ (171mm) long X 4 5/8″ (81mm) wide X 2 3/16″ (56mm) tall. The lug-less terminations into unpluggable connectors are another nice feature making the installation of the panel easy and convenient.

A poster size color schematic was provided along with a clear instruction manual to guide hobbyists like myself through the installation. Marc will provide additional support if needed.

This is the original assembly:

Bracket Assembly, Mounting Horn Realy, Fuse and Control Boxes

Although the Classic Technologies Box is more often seen mounted under the bonnet somewhere, I have elected to mount it under the dash on the RH side of the interior. This will require some modification of the fiberboard panel under the dash but that should be accomplished with little problem. My installation looks like this:

Mounting of the Classic Technologies Fuse Panel

I will still use the base of the original fuse panel bracket assembly in its original location on the LH valance in the engine bay. Three Barrier terminal blocks used to make connections for lights, horns and etc., will be mounted on the LH valance and the base of the fuse bracket will be used to cover and protect the terminal blocks and wiring. On the top of the base I will be mounting fuses and connectors associated with the alternator, and power steering. I will then fabricate a new cover for the base that will shield the entire base not just 2/3 of it as was done originally. This is the powder coated mounting bracket assembly:

Powder Coated Fuse Panel Bracket Assembly

Fuse/Relay Panel Design Theory

The 15 fuses are broken up into three groups:

1. Constant Power: Fuses F1 through F4, F8, and F15. These fuses are tied to the battery + terminal (B+). Examples: Dome Lights, Parking Lights, Hazard Flashers, and Horn. These features have power regardless of ignition switch position.

2. Ignition Power: Fuses F5, F6, and F7. These are items that are critical to starting the car that should have power while the car is being started. Examples: Coil, Alternator excitation, Fuel Pump, Gauges/Warning Lights, brake lights.

3. Accessory Power: Fuses F 9 through F14. These are items that are not critical to starting the car and should not have power while starting the car to maximize power to the starter. Additionally, in order to prevent battery drain, these items should not have power when the keys are removed from the ignition. Examples: wipers, heater motor, turn signals, overdrive, radiator fan, radio, reverse lights…

New Wiring System Requirements

In addition to the gauges, switches, and components typical of the MK2 that the Classic Technologies Fuse/Relay Panel would manage, the modifications to my car will necessitate individualizing the wiring schematic that Marc provides with his panel kit.

I will need to add circuitry for the following features:

Air Conditioning

My car was not air conditioned originally. I am installing an after-market kit produced and sold by Rock Browning of RetroAir, Inc. As I see it, the kit has the following electrical components that will need to be incorporated into the new wiring diagram.

SPAL 12” Electric Radiator Fan – 5.3 amps
Water temp sender to cut fan on/off Circuit breaker
Fan relay
Trinary switch
Compressor relay
SPAL 3 speed Blower Fan to circulate air – 16 amps max
Control panel switches – 3 speed fan switch, temperature switch

Power Steering Pump

My car did not have power steering originally although it was an option at the time. I have installed rack and pinion from a later Jaguar that uses an electric power steering pump. The vendor, M&C Wilkinson reported “The power steering pump uses approximately 40 amps at maximum draw which is slow speed/full lock.”The vendor also supplied an 80 amp fuse and a connector block.

Upgraded Wiper System

I am using a more recent Jaguar wiper motor and a modified wiper switch all purchased from Classic Motor Cars in England. I understand the amperage requirement to be 6 amps.

Power Front Seats

I am using seats from a later Jaguar (1990 Daimler XJ40). Although the seats have heaters, memory and a few other gadgets such as a seat belt alarm, I intend to only use the seat motion adjustments (four switches for each seat that will be mounted on the central console), and the lamps on the rear of the front seat headrests. The back of the seats have folding “picnic” tables.
Looks like the seats require 5 amps (7.5 max) each. Each seat needs a relay.

Sound System Amplification

Specifications for the amplifier have yet to be determined, but I anticipate perhaps a 300 watt amplifier requiring approximately 25 amps.

Accessory Power Outlets

Redundant Fuel Pump

Third Brake Light

Back-up Camera

Headlight Warning Chime

British Wiring Codes

I plan to stick with British Wiring Codes wherever possible in the rewiring of the MK2.

Mike McPhail, the president of the South Texas Austin-Healey Club, published an article in the July, 2010 issue of Regional Rumblings, the Club’s newsletter that provided an excellent color coded summary of Lucas wiring that will surely prove helpful with the Jaguar as well.

Lucas Wiring Color Codes

Radiomobile Radio, Aerial and Housing

Posted on June 28, 2015 by valv8988

Radiomobile Radio Housing and Aerial

Radiomobile Aerial

The aerial height on my Mk2 was controlled by a hand crank and cables. The hand crank was located below the steering wheel through the finisher panel. I was going to forgo the use of the aerial since my aerial was broken, but Robert Seligman (also restoring a 64 MK2) and John Stefanik (professional restorer and metal man extraordinaire) reproduced the Radiomobile crank mechanism and replacement aerial masts. Consequently, I am excited to be able to use the mechanism as originally installed! I am indebted to Bob and John for their talent, creativity and persistence.

George Camp sent photos of the correct fitting so that I might try to get my assembly close to the original.

Aerial Mast Fitting

Radiomobile handcrank Aerial

John was able to source new cables and now has my assembly in working condition.

Bob Seligman was somehow able to find a rubber grommet with a five degree offset that will work on the MK2. It is a little smaller than the original, but I am happy to find a grommet that will work!

The antenna mast is mounted inside the LH kick panel radio speaker opening. It is a little hard to see, but if one enlarges this image you can see the bracket inside the void between the LH wing and the inner body. The base of the antenna mounts on the bracket and the mast exits out the hole in the body.

Radiomobile antenna mounting bracket

These are directions for the installation of the radio, aerial and speakers. The directions, presumably prepared for RH drive cars shows that the antenna and the rotating controller are to be located on the RH side of the car. Several MK2 owners have reported that their controller is mounted on the RH side; however, my antenna and controller are located on the LH side of the car. The controller is mounted under and to the left of the steering wheel. This seems like a much more practical location for a LH drive vehicle.

Radiomobile antenna mast rotary controller

Radiomobile antenna mast rotary controller under panel

Radiomobile Installation Instructions

Additional instructions are provided on page 21 in this little book:

practical-car-radio-handbook

Radio Control/Finisher Panel

The Radiomobile radio is housed in the Finisher or Control Panel Above Tunnel. The radio as set up was for positive ground, but apparently there is a switch inside the unit that will permit it to be transformed into a negative ground unit. A set of thirty-nine detailed images are available at this Flickr link:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/valve-chatter/sets/72157632437770125/

The Finisher or Control Panel also includes the lever controls for the “Hot” and “Cold” air settings as well as the “Car” and “Screen” settings.

Front Finisher Panel Assembly Above Gearbox Tunnel with Radio

A single speaker is housed above the radio behind a chrome speaker grille.

Speaker Mounting Above Radio

Heater Controls Air control levers are located on either side of the radio and are operated by cables from the Heater Box. Additional information about the heater control levers is available under the “Heater” posts.

Lever Assemblies for Hot and Cold and Car and Screen Controls

Lever Assembly

Knob on Heater Control

Lever Assemblies

The Panel is covered in vinyl which was removed and saved to use as a pattern later. The panel was then media blasted and set aside. No decisions have been made as of yet regarding the sound/navigation system that will be installed, but it is likely to require modifications to the sheet metal of the panel.

Panel Vinyl

Vinyl Removed

Finisher Panel Cleaned

Radio Control Unit Support Brackets Two support brackets that connect the top of the control panel to the radio unit were cleaned, media blasted, primed and painted.

Radio Control Unit Support Brackets

The Radiomobile Radio

My 1964 MK2 had a Radiomobile radio in it when I purchased it. Apparently it was installed by the dealer at the time of delivery but I cannot be sure. I do have the original Smiths Radiomobile Car Operating Instructions and the original Smiths Radiomobile Guarantee Registration Card. While the card has the radio model number on it the card was never completed and sent back to S. Smith and Sons (Radiomobile) Ltd.

Smiths Radiomobile Car Radio Operating Instructions

Smiths Radiomobile Guarantee Registration Card

My radio did not function and it was also positive ground. I wanted to upgrade the sound system in the car, but wanted to try to retain the original look of the original radio. After some internet searching I came upon Retro Radio Restoration owned and operated by Mike and Chris Frenchek in Elizabethtown, PA. http://www.retroradio.biz/index.html

Mike will restore you original unit or he will convert your radio to add power and features while retaining the look and many of the functions of the original radio. I chose to convert my Radiomobile. The process takes about six months so you cannot do this if you are in a hurry!

In the conversion process the original electronics were replaced with a new high power digital stereo receiver designed to work with the original mechanical tuner and controls. Switching between AM and FM bands is accomplished by quickly turning the radio off and then back on again. Pushbuttons can be set for AM and FM stations using the same method that was used originally. Four BTL amplifiers capable of delivering 45 watts RMS each provide 180 watts RMS maximum output power. (14.4 volts, 4 ohm load, 1kHz.

I chose to have my unit configured for four speakers and all radios are equipped with RCA inputs and the necessary control lines to plug into a CD player or a satellite radio. I also added optional blue tooth, a USB port, and line outs for a subwoofer and an additional external amplifier. I have yet to determine if I will use a subwoofer or and additional amplifier, but I am ready if I choose to do so.

I just received my radio from Mike and my first impression is very positive. He tested the unit and said that it sounded great, but I have not yet tested it myself. I still need to determine what speakers I will use. I polished the knobs and push buttons and it all looks quite good. I have some scaling on the chrome casing of the radio and I may have the face rechromed. An aluminum face plate is used to mount the radio to the finisher panel and that is a shame because the chrome face of the radio actually looks better than the aluminum face plate!

These are a few images of the radio as it was received from Mike. It will be put away for now but I look forward to coming back to it a little later in the restoration project.

Radiomobile Conversion with Mounting faceplate

Radiomobile Conversion with new ports

Radiomobile Conversion Casing Blasted and Painted

These are the directions for the operation of the converted radio:

Rose Radiomobile Conversion Directions

Rose Radiomobile Bluetooth USB Instructions

Wiper System Upgrade

Posted on August 27, 2014 by valv8988

Wiper System Upgrade

I am upgrading the wiper system with a kit provided by Classic Motor Cars. http://www.classic-motor-cars.co.uk/servicing_types/mk2-lorem/.

The kit uses a model 29 W Lucas Motor, part# 75967D that I believe was used for XJ series Jags in the eighties and early nineties with a modified original switch to operate the system.

CMC Improved Wiper System Kit Contents

These are the instructions provided for the kit:

CMC Improved Wiper System Instructions

Installation

I had already removed all of the original wiper system from the car. I installed the RH Bonnet Hinge and the Fuel Filter and Fuel Pipe to make sure that the mounting of the wiper motor would not foul or interfere with these components.

1. The first step was to install the new wheel boxes. These are a slightly different shape than the originals but held by new chrome nuts supplied in the kit they went right into place.

New Wiper Wheel Box Installed

2. I attached the wiper motor to the kit-provided mounting bracket using the hoop clamp and the rubber cushion to address vibration. The bolts were also provided with the kit.

3. The original rack tube is used between the two wheel boxes. This is a straight piece that drops in once the covers for the wheel boxes are loosened.

4. A new rack tube end piece (about 3″ long) is provided in the kit and is shown in the last of the previous images. It is open at the end to permit the rack to slide through. The provided rack is longer than it needs to be to allow for flexibility in mounting I assume? The open-ended tube allows one to determine how much of the rack is to be removed.

5. Using the original curved rack tube that extends through the firewall as a guide, the new tube provided in the kit is bent to conform to the same shape.

6. I then tested my bending skills by inserting the tube through the firewall and connecting the one end to the wheel box and the other to the motor while holding the motor on its bracket roughly in place on the RH valance in the engine compartment. Once satisfied with the fit, I marked the location for the two hex head bolts that mount the motor bracket to the valance. I then disconnected the tube at both ends and withdrew the motor and tube from the car.

7. I drilled two 3/8″ holes in the RH engine bay valance to secure the motor bracket.

8. The rack was then fit to the motor. This required taking the cover off the motor and inserting the rack end fitting to the peg on the action lever in the motor. I then buttoned up the cover and slid the curved rack tube over the rack and tightened it to the motor.

9. I then fed the rack through the RH wheel box, the center straight tube, and then the LH wheel box. This required an additional helpful person to hold the wiper motor in the engine bay while I fed the rack through the boxes.

10. I then bolted the motor bracket to the valance using two hex head 5/16″ – 24 x 3/4″ bolts, with flat and shake-proof washers. The kit provided 1/4″ bolts, but I substituted the 5/16.”

11. The rack was approximately 6″ longer than it needed to be, so I trimmed it to proper length with a dremel tool.

12. The kit provides a relay, a modified switch and some wiring. To make sure everything was functional I connected all terminals between the motor, the relay and the switch, secured the ground connections and attached it all to a power input. Everything worked properly.

13. After the car is painted and before final installation, I will grease the rack for smoother operation and add a grommet to the firewall for the rack tube and one for the wiper motor wiring. I plan to use:

Molykote® Bearing Grease Designed for Extreme Low Temperature ApplicationsMIDLAND, Mich. – August 12, 2005 – With a service temperature range of -100° to 400°F (-73° to 204°C), Molykote® 33 Extreme Low Temperature Bearing Grease is effective at lubricating plastic gears, bearings and cams, as well as metal and rubber parts that must remain operable when subjected to low operating temperatures, severe weathering and oxidation.

Molykote 33 Extreme Low Temperature Bearing Grease can be used on freezer cart casters and cold room conveyor equipment; utility disconnect switch contacts; plastic electric clock motors; maximum-demand meters, power-factor meters, watt-hour meters; windshield wiper motor gears; photographic, optical

The three images below show the mounted wiper motor and the rack tube through the firewall.

CMC Upgraded Wiper Motor Kit Installed

Wiper Rack through Firewall

Valve Chatter

Category Archives: MK2 Electrical System

Exterior Lights

Classic Technologies Relay/Fuse Panel

Radiomobile Radio, Aerial and Housing

Wiper System Upgrade

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