Cockpit Trim

I removed the pieces from the shroud.

Cockpit trim

Cockpit trim fastener

Door Shut Face Finishers

Remove the vertical aluminum shut plate (back of door jamb) first. 7 chrome screws and 4 countersunk bolts for the door lock packing and tapped plate as well as the striker. Then removed bottom door sill threshold plate which is secured by 8 chrome screws. Then the door seals(draught excluder) and the aluminum finish plate for the inner door sill can be removed.

Door Shut Face Finisher

Rear Quarter Liner Assembly

Remove small wooden block topped by the aluminum hard top surround finisher plate. The aluminum finisher is secured by three small stainless screws. The wooden block is secured by a single self tapering screw that also helps to fix the rear quarter liner assembly. Four screws go through the door shut plate and into the wood of the rear quarter liner assembly. Once these are removed the assembly can be lifted free of the interior.

Door Seal finisher

May 25, 2002

Heater

Opened the drain plug on the radiator. Detached the rubber hoses to and from the engine so that they can be pulled through the firewall with the heater unit when ready. Removed the heater bracket just to the right of the steering wheel. Six #10 machine screws hold the bracket to the firewall. Loosened the wire clamps that secure the heater hose from the blower unit on the right front fender well and pull through the firewall. Disconnected the heater control cable from the water valve. Disconnected the demister hoses from the vents to the windscreen. Disassembled the unit and flushed the radiator. Removed rust, painted and reassembled.

Heater Assembly Clips

Smiths Heater Label

Heater Air Flap

Heater Water Valve with Hose

Heater Water Valve Cable Attachment

Heater Water Valve

Radiator 

Drained radiator of fluids. Disconnected the radiator to its mounting frame by removing 6 mounting bolts into threaded fixed nuts. Disconnected upper and lower rubber hoses. Lifted out the radiator.

Bonnet Pull Rod

Disconnected the small split pin and washer at the front of the pull rod near the front of the latch. Removed the rod holder bracket from the shroud support channel and slid off the upholstery clip located 29 3/8” from the front of the rod. Disconnected the spring from the rod holder bracket and slid off the rod. Pulled the rod through two rubber grommets under dash toward rear of the car.

Bonnet Pull Rod Handle

Bonnet Pull Rod, Spring and Clip

Tachometer Cable 

Detached the tach cable from the distributor drive and pulled from inside the cabin through to the engine compartment. The tach grommet is the lower hole in the firewall to the left of the voltage regulator.

Tachometer Cable with Firewall Grommet

Choke Cable 

The cable as removed on this car is not original. Disconnected from the carb choke bracket by the air cleaner. Pulled through the top firewall grommet and hole adjacent to the left bonnet hinge.

December 28, 2001

To get started with my restoration, the first thing I had to do was move the car from its storage site to its new home. This required putting some new rubber on the wheels as all four of the tires were flat. I purchased some Michelin tubes from Hendrix Wire Wheel and one of the local tire shops mounted four used tires on my old wire wheels for me for free. After installation the car was rolling and ready to be towed to our home and into a storage shed I purchased. 

February 2, 2002

My son, Scott, assisted me in the relocation process. The car looked pretty rough. Obviously the garage had been damp as considerable rust had developed. Once home, the dismantling process began.

Stored in a poultry barn

Off the trailer at home with Scott

Bringing the Healey Home

Tucked into the shed

March 15, 2002

Rear Bumper

Removed two bolts (HZS0608) each, with flat and split washers, from the brackets in the boot for the rear bumper bars (RH-17H9699) and (LH-17H9700) . Note that one of the bolts also secures the ground cable (1B9078) from the battery master switch (1B2804) to earth.

Rear Bumper Bracket Mounting Points

Boot Lid Control Cable

Removed the boot lid control cable (14B8692). Secured at the boot lid hinge stud with a flat washer and nylock nut (53K1661), and by a bolt (PMZ0410), lock and flat washer and nut at at the prop rod support bracket (14B6467).

Boot Lid Control Cable fixing to boot lid

Prop Rod Support Bracket

Boot Lid

Hinges should be loosened from the rear shroud first, then the boot lid. This because the shroud is soft aluminum while the boor lid is steel. The RH hinge (14B1725) and the LH hinge (14B1726). The hinges are handed but their gaskets comprised of two parts each (14B3463) and (14B3462) are not. Removed three nyloc nuts (53K1661) with flat washers for each hinge. Unlocking the boot lock handle assembly (14B1963) will then allow removal of the boot lid from the car.

Fuel Tank Filler Pipe 

Removed fuel filler cap (8G654) from the tank filler pipe (AHB8315). I then  loosened the two tube clips (8G505) on the short filler tube connection (11B2011) and pulled the steel filler tube with its rubber tube to body collar (11G2100) out of the rear shroud and removed both.

Fuel Tank Fittings

Fuel Tank Sender Unit

Removed the Fuel Gauge Tank Sender Unit (1B2736) by removing six screws (53K165) fixing the unit to the tank. Each screw had a copper washer (2A2088). A cork gasket, or tank unit washer, (2H1082) was also removed. Note that the float arm points to the top of the front of the tank/car. I disconnected the electrical wire to the unit and removed the gauge sender from the car.

Fuel Gauge Tank Unit Sender

Fuel Gauge Tank Unit Sender Removed

Battery Cable Lead

Loosened the battery cable at the battery post. I cut the cable at the terminal because I knew that I would be replacing the cable, but the proper routing involves removing the cable lead at the solenoid and then pulling rearward through frame clamps to the boot. Two rubber grommets were located in the filler tube wall and the rear kick panel.

Battery Cable and Rubber Grommets in Boot

Battery Master Switch

Removed two mounting bolts and disconnected the ignition wiring and ground cable to battery as well as the ground cable to the frame. It is reported that this switch was under-engineered and often the source of electrical problems so I will plan to replace it with an upgraded, but non-original, switch upon reassembly.

Battery Master Switch Mount

There are three electrical connections to the master switch. The earth or ground cable (1B9078) that attaches to the frame near the switch, the positive battery cable connecting to the + battery post, and the small wire to the ignition coil.

Battery Master Switch

Boot Lid Striker 

Removed the striker (14B1719), its packing plate (14B2809), a packing piece (14B6817) and the striker tapped plate (14B2038) from the boot frame by loosening three 1/4” bolts (HZS0407) with flat and split washers. This striker is adjustable to obtain the best fit with the boot lid lock.

Boot Lid Striker

Boot Lid Striker Assembly

March 16, 2002

Carburetors

First step in the removal of the twin HD6 SU carburetors is the removal of the front (11B622) and rear (11B619) air cleaners. The rear air cleaner has a tube for the breather hose from the rocker cover. The screws on the clips (AEC442) for each end of the hose (1G2268) must be loosened so as to remove the breather hose. Each air cleaner is mounted to its carb with two hex head bolts (HZS0506), flat and split washers. These could then be set aside.

Next was the removal of the carb to carb fuel pipe (AEC1230). One fibre washer (AUC4121) on each side of the brass banjo bolt (AUC2698). Filter cups (AUC2139) with springs and washers fit into the float chamber lids at this junction. The pipe could then be removed and set side. The banjo bolts, washers and filters were refitted to the float chamber lids.

Carb Removal

Loosened the nuts on each of two screws on one of the ribbon rod couplers (AUC4334) so that the carbs could be separated.

Carb Throttle Shaft Connector

This also required freeing the choke jet lever connecting rod (AUC2867) at the bottom of the carbs. First removed the cotter pin from the pivot pin (AUC2108) that held the connecting rod end fork (AUC2256) on the front carb.

The choke cable must also be loosened and removed. The cable is routed through the choke cable trunnion in the bracket (11B623) on the rear carb, fitting between the carb and the air cleaner. A gasket (AEC375) is located on either side of the bracket. The front carb has only the one gasket between the air cleaner and the carb.

Choke Bracket on Rear Carb

Each carb is mounted to the intake manifold studs with four 5/16″-24 (FNZ105) nuts, flat and split washers. A couple of the nuts on the underside of the carbs are not easy to access!

The ignition control vacuum pipe (AEC416) from the distributor must be disconnected from the rear carb by loosening its fitting nut (2K6193).  The assembled carb unit may be then removed from the manifold. A nylon overflow pipe (AEC981 and AEC982) for each carb float bowl lid can be lifted away with the carbs. 

A gasket (AED308) is found between each carb and the Heat Shield (AEC1357). These are removed and then the heat shield can be lifted away from the manifold. Between the heat shield and the manifold there is an insulating distance piece (AEC368). These were also removed.