January 20, 2022
It was time to replace the battery in The Bloody Beast. I ordered another Odyssey AGM battery as I was quite happy with the last one. Model number: ODP-AGM34. I ordered it directly from Odyssey but it was shipped by one of their retail partners, West Coast Batteries.
Odyssey AGM Type 34 Battery
Well, I guess that there is never a “final” stage of SU tuning, but the objective in this tuning is to get the car running well and at a place where I can enjoy driving The Bloody Beast, rather than sorting and fiddling.
I described the initial SU carb set-up in an earlier post, https://valvechatter.com/?cat=1367. The initial setting enabled the car to start and run on its own although still a bit rough. I was able to drive the car around the block a few times to get the oil and water temperature up to normal operating temperature before beginning the final tuning.
I used the air flow meter EMPl Carb Synchronization Tool (EMPl Carb Synchronization tool Instructions )to check the air flow balance of the individual carbs and found them to be quite different.
EMPI Carb AIr Sync Tool
I adjusted the slow run valves to bring the air flow to the point where it was reading the same for each carb and I noticed almost right away that the engine was idling more smoothly. I was able to obtain and idle speed of about 500 rpms.
I then adjusted the jet mixture screw on each carb to bring the idle speed up to about 750 rpms. Leaving everything alone at this stage results in little effect when one pulls out the choke knob.
To increase the effectiveness of the choke I then pulled out the choke knob about half way. I then turned the fast idle screw on the rear carb clockwise (downward) until the idle increased to 1,000 rpm. I then turned downward the front carb fast idle screw until it very slightly increased the idle beyond 1,000 rpm, and then backed it off to 1,000 rpm. This procedure evens the throttle shaft load between the two carbs.
The car is running better than ever. Now it is time to enjoy the ride!
Some time ago I installed velocity stacks, also sometimes known as ram pipes, on my HD8 carbs and for filtration I was using foam air socks from ITG. While these seem to work effectively, I was just never real excited about using foam and I wanted a filtration method that was also a bit more esthetically pleasing. After some searching, I came across PJ Motorsports in Oregon.
The filter ring is semi-polished aluminum made of .063 aluminum and 3/4″ tall. Their filters use three layers of filtration screens. The first screen is 18×14 mesh; the second is 70 mesh Stainless fabric and the third is 18×14 mesh. Their website states, “We try to filter your airflow without allowing particles through, at the same time trying NOT to deprive the air to the velocity stacks.
Their filters are not made specifically for rimmed velocity stacks like mine from AH Spares, but I was able to order extra ring clips that secure the filter material in the rim and after mounting the filters to the velocity stacks I pressed in the ring clip to secure the stack to the filter rim. I then applied some Loctite 581 Flange Sealant to help keep things together. After two trial runs of over fifty miles, the assembly seems to be secure.
Velocity Stack and Filter Installed
Loctite 518 Flange Sealant and locking Ring in Place
Velocity Stack Filters Installed
March 20, 2023 Update: The flange sealant method of attaching the filters to the velocity stacks described below did not hold up. So, I drilled 1/8″ holes through the filter rims and the velocity stack curled edges and attached the filter rims to the stacks with #6 x 1/2″ self tapping screws.
Velocity Stack Filters screwed to the Stacks
Velocity Stack Filters screwed to the Stacks
I am very pleased with both the look and performance of the new filtration system.