January 20, 2022
It was time to replace the battery in The Bloody Beast. I ordered another Odyssey AGM battery as I was quite happy with the last one. Model number: ODP-AGM34. I ordered it directly from Odyssey but it was shipped by one of their retail partners, West Coast Batteries.
Odyssey AGM Type 34 Battery
Well, I guess that there is never a “final” stage of SU tuning, but the objective in this tuning is to get the car running well and at a place where I can enjoy driving The Bloody Beast, rather than sorting and fiddling.
I described the initial SU carb set-up in an earlier post, https://valvechatter.com/?cat=1367. The initial setting enabled the car to start and run on its own although still a bit rough. I was able to drive the car around the block a few times to get the oil and water temperature up to normal operating temperature before beginning the final tuning.
I used the air flow meter EMPl Carb Synchronization Tool (EMPl Carb Synchronization tool Instructions )to check the air flow balance of the individual carbs and found them to be quite different.
EMPI Carb AIr Sync Tool
I adjusted the slow run valves to bring the air flow to the point where it was reading the same for each carb and I noticed almost right away that the engine was idling more smoothly. I was able to obtain and idle speed of about 500 rpms.
I then adjusted the jet mixture screw on each carb to bring the idle speed up to about 750 rpms. Leaving everything alone at this stage results in little effect when one pulls out the choke knob.
To increase the effectiveness of the choke I then pulled out the choke knob about half way. I then turned the fast idle screw on the rear carb clockwise (downward) until the idle increased to 1,000 rpm. I then turned downward the front carb fast idle screw until it very slightly increased the idle beyond 1,000 rpm, and then backed it off to 1,000 rpm. This procedure evens the throttle shaft load between the two carbs.
The car is running better than ever. Now it is time to enjoy the ride!
Some time ago I installed velocity stacks, also sometimes known as ram pipes, on my HD8 carbs and for filtration I was using foam air socks from ITG. While these seem to work effectively, I was just never real excited about using foam and I wanted a filtration method that was also a bit more esthetically pleasing. After some searching, I came across PJ Motorsports in Oregon.
The filter ring is semi-polished aluminum made of .063 aluminum and 3/4″ tall. Their filters use three layers of filtration screens. The first screen is 18×14 mesh; the second is 70 mesh Stainless fabric and the third is 18×14 mesh. Their website states, “We try to filter your airflow without allowing particles through, at the same time trying NOT to deprive the air to the velocity stacks.
Their filters are not made specifically for rimmed velocity stacks like mine from AH Spares, but I was able to order extra ring clips that secure the filter material in the rim and after mounting the filters to the velocity stacks I pressed in the ring clip to secure the stack to the filter rim. I then applied some Loctite 581 Flange Sealant to help keep things together. After two trial runs of over fifty miles, the assembly seems to be secure.
Velocity Stack and Filter Installed
Loctite 518 Flange Sealant and locking Ring in Place
Velocity Stack Filters Installed
March 20, 2023 Update: The flange sealant method of attaching the filters to the velocity stacks described below did not hold up. So, I drilled 1/8″ holes through the filter rims and the velocity stack curled edges and attached the filter rims to the stacks with #6 x 1/2″ self tapping screws.
Velocity Stack Filters screwed to the Stacks
Velocity Stack Filters screwed to the Stacks
I am very pleased with both the look and performance of the new filtration system.
Bloody Beast Ten Year Renewal Plan
This is an initial draft of a check list for my ten year renewal project. I would love to have feedback from others on the completeness of the list. Obviously, some of these items will have been tended to rather recently during routine maintenance and they will now just get a quick check. My car is low mileage since its total restoration nine-plus years ago. Consequently, numerous items will not involve the typical wear one might see for this period of time. Instead, the item might need attention for age rather than wear.
Thanks to those readers who have written suggesting items to add to my check list. I appreciate your review! I have updated the list and it is current as of October 3, 2018
Bloody Beast Ten Year Renewal Plan
Body
RH side curtain vent installation – Unique to my situation
Repair all paint chips with touch up paint
Modify the Cape International rear bumper brackets to move the bumpers closer to the shroud. – Unique to my situation
Clay, Polish, and Wax
Lubricate Bonnet, Door, and Boot hinges and locks
White grease on door locks
White grease on bonnet catch
White grease on boot lock
Brakes and Clutch
Flush and refill hydraulic fluid and consider replacement of the master cylinders, bleed system. Outer portion of reservoir feeds the braking system. Inner portion feeds the clutch.
Check condition of all brake lines and rubber hoses and replace if needed
Consider replacing parts of the Cape International rear disc brake conversion with Steve Gerow’s kit. Unique to my situation
Inspect brake pads and renew if needed.
Check tightness of the slave cylinder fasteners.
Grease handbrake cable and compensator
Cooling
Replace radiator upper and lower hoses
Replace the fan belt
Check condition of the radiator cap
Flush coolant and replace with new coolant.
Electrical System
Replace alternator – Unique to my situation
Check all electrical connection points
Check condition of the battery and clean posts if needed.
Check tightness of fasteners securing the ground strap in the boot.
Add a back-up light from the gearbox
Replace the incandescent courtesy lamps with LED lights
Engine
Check tightness of Crankshaft starter nut and harmonic balancer
Adjust valve clearances
Oil and oil filter (K&N HP-2009) change – replace copper crush washer at drain plug
Check engine for leaks and repair where possible. Check the oil sump bolts.
Replace gaskets/seals for generator mounting plate and tappet covers.
Check tightness of all oil sump mounting bolts.
Replace rocker cover seal.
Replace the rocker cover “T” breather pipe with Cape International “U” pipe to take breather hoses to a Mishimoto oil catch can.- Unique to my situation
Check condition of engine mounts and bolt tightness.
Visually inspect core plugs for any seepage
Exhaust
Inspect system for any leaks and repair if needed
Check for tightness of fasteners
Fuel
Replace fuel filter – Malassi Filter King and Holley Gauge
Replace rubber fuel hose with ethanol resistant hose.
Check tightness of Carb fittings. Clean and polish carbs check damper oil level.
Change ITG air filter to Burlen Ram Pipes. – Unique to my situation
Adjust carbs as needed. See Steve Byers instructions.
Consider a reworking of the fuel delivery hose system from pipe to carbs. Unique to my situation.
Add a ground connection wire from the fuel sender unit to the frame.
Check fuel sender/gasket for any fuel leakage.
Lubricate carb linkages with light oil
Front suspension
Check condition of rubber boots on ball joints and other bushings.
Check the tightness of all shock absorber mounting bolts.
Check Oil in the shock absorbers.
Check the tightness of the nuts/bolts under the spring pans.
Check the working condition of all grease zerks and grease them.
Inspect the front bearings. Repack or replace. Set end-float to spec.
Inspect the splines on the hubs and the wheels. Make sure all hub nuts are tight.
Check for wear in the king pin by testing to see if there is movement when grabbing the tire at the bottom and trying to move it in and out.
Gearbox & Propshaft
Check all mounting fasteners for tightness.
Drain gearbox oil and replace with a little less than 3 quarts of Red Line MT-90 synthetic gear oil.
Check condition of U-joints (?)
Heater
Inspect rubber heater hoses and replace if needed.
Consider replacement of the heater water valve to ensure it is not clogged.
Ignition
Inspect ignition system wiring and connection points
Inspect spark plugs and replace with new NGK BP6ES plugs
Check engine timing
Interior
Replace bristleflex door seals
Treat leather surfaces with conditioner.
Check oil seal on the back of the tachometer to see if there are any drips.
Lights
Check all bulbs and flashers for correct operation
Check operation of all dash lights
Rear Axle & Suspension
Refresh Axle Differential Gear Oil
Check fasteners for U-bolts, shock absorbers
Check the working condition of all grease zerks and grease them
Check the breather on the the axle casing
Check rear bearings for smooth turning and seals for leaks
Check oil in the shock absorbers
Steering
Check fill levels of the steering idler and steering box and add Penrite Steering Oil.
Check tightness of all fasteners and rubber ball joint boots.
Tires
Inspect for age and wear. Replace if needed.
Check inflation pressures and adjust if needed.
Wheels
Inspect all wheels for loose spokes. Repair if needed.
Windshield & Windshield Washer
Inspect and refresh fluid in reservoir
Replace wiper blades