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Welcome to my website covering the history, restoration and “personalizations” to my small collection of classic cars. Feel free to email me with questions, suggestions and/or comments. I would love to have your feedback! Cheers, Lin Rose linwoodrose@me.com

MK2 Cruise Control

Posted on May 20, 2017 by valv8988

Rostra Cruise Control

Components

I installed an Audiovox CCS-100 Cruise Control system on my Healey and found it to be a useful modification. I am over six feet tall and the seating position in British cars can be uncomfortable on long drives. The cruise control makes those trips a bit more relaxing and enjoyable.

Rostra Precision Controls, Inc. manufacturers the cruise control system I am using in the Jaguar MK2. Many of the same components of Rostra’s system have evolved from the earlier version marketed by Audiovox. The earlier iteration worked on a vacuum servo while the current version by Rostra uses all electronic components. Rostra also manufactures a number of other automotive electronic devices such as Bluetooth systems, rear cameras and etc. The company is located in North Carolina and this is their website: http://www.rostra.com. Rostra does not sell directly, but they have many other vendors selling their products such as Summit Racing and many others.

There are a number of components in the cruise control system. These include:

Part #250-1223: The Global Cruise Module Assembly includes the universal Global Cruise servo motor, throttle cable, universal mounting brackets, wiring harness and hardware package for making electrical and throttle control connections. The servo motor mounts in the vehicle’s engine bay.

Rostra 250-1223 Servo

These are the directions provided with the Global Cruise Module:rostra-global-cruise-250-1223-instruction-manual

Part #250-4165: includes the speed signal generator with sensor, magnet and strap.

Universal Magnet Speed Signal Generator

Cars more modern than the 64 Jaguar equipped with electronic speed signal (VSS) capability don’t require a magnetic sensor, but in the analog world of the MK2, a magnet is secured to the propshaft and the sensor is located in close proximity to measure revolutions or pulses per mile. These are the directions provided with the Universal Magnet Speed Signal Generator kit: rostra-installation-of-the-road-speed-sensormagnets-pick-up-coil

Part #250-4382: is a pre-wired five pin relay to compensate for the use of LED brake lighting.

Relay Package

While the included primary wiring harness of the Global Cruise system includes wire leads meant to be attached to both the ‘hot’ and ‘cold’ sides of the brake pedal sensor to disengage the cruise control when the brake pedal is depressed, the proper ground signal is no longer present when a vehicle has been outfitted with LED lighting accessories such as LED brake lights. In a case like this, a 5-prong automotive relay must be used to provide the ground signal to cancel the cruise control once engaged. A MK2 owner using original incandescent light bulbs wouldn’t need this relay, but I have converted my lights to LEDs so this addition is required. These are the directions provided with the pre-wired 5 pin relay: rostra-250-4382-5-wire-relay-wiring-diagram

Part #250-3592: is the dash mounted control switch that includes a small LED light that illuminates when the cruise is engaged. An otherwise identical control switch, but without the engagement light is also available and is part #250-3593. I am using #3592 that also requires an additional 5 pin relay. I am not mounting the switch on the dash, as I am “hiding” my switch in the modified center console where the ash tray was originally located.

Universal Dash Mount Switch

These are the directions provided with the control switch: rostra-dashmount-installation-instruction

Installation

Step one for me was to set the electronic switches in the global cruise module. There are a total of twelve switches with “On/Off” settings. Rostra encourages beginning the installation with the factory settings and then modifying the settings based on individual applications.

rostra global cruise control module settings

Global Cruise Switches

The twelve switches configure the control module for the type of car in which the system is being installed.

Switches #1 and #2 are for sensitivity or gain. Rostra’s directions state the following: Gain is how the cruise reacts to road conditions and motor size. Always start at Mid gain. If vehicle surges, change gain. For a fast surge, switch to a low or extra low gain setting if needed to tune the cruise. If there is a slow surge, switch to high gain. Therefore, I will initially set switch #1 to “OFF” and switch #2 to “ON.”

Switches#3 through #6 are for the pulses for minute. I assume (always dangerous) that the MK2 will probably have about 3,000 to 3,500 rpms at 60 mph therefore, I will initially set switch #3 to “ON,” switch #4 to “OFF,” switch #5 to “OFF,” and switch #6 to “OFF.”

Switches #7 through #9 are for the engine set-up (cylinders). Rostra’s directions state the following: Engine/Setup timer is how fast the cruise retracts the cable at onset. Always start at low. If vehicle drops below set speed but then recovers, switch to a high or extra high if set speed is not acceptable. Of course the Jaguar MK2 3.8 is a 6 cylinder engine therefore, I will initially set switch #7 to “OFF,” switch #8 to “ON,” and switch #9 to “OFF.”

Switch #10 is for the input source – Sine Wave or Square Wave. The Jaguar MK2 must use the magnet kit as the pulse indicator and as the chart above indicates, switch #10 is set to the Sine Wave Input or “OFF.”

Switch #11 is for the transmission type – manual or automatic. I have a manual gearbox in my MK2 therefore, I will set switch #11 to “OFF.”

Switch #12 is for the type of control switch. Rostra’s directions state the following: Your control switch is an Open Circuit Control Switch if: Its Rostra part number is 250-3592 (among others). I am using the dash panel control switch #250-3592, therefore in keeping with the table above switch #12 is set to “OFF.”

In summary:

#1 OFF

#2 ON

#3 ON

#4 OFF

#5 OFF

#6 OFF

#7 OFF

#8 ON

#9 OFF

#10 OFF

#11 OFF

#12 OFF

Global Cruise Module Mounting

The Rostra instructions indicate that the Module should NOT be mounted in the following areas

* Under the fender.
* Under the vehicle.
* Directly to the engine.
* With the cable pointed down.
* Near sharp, hot or moving objects.
* Near ignition coil [No closer than 10″]
* In the passenger compartment (Noise).

The module needs to be mounted in a location that will provide sufficient “reach” for the module’s throttle control cable to link to the carburetor throttle linkage. A fairly heavy duty bracket is provided to mount the module to the car and it can be mounted in one of two orientations:

Cruise Control Module and Mounting Bracket

My battery is relocated to the boot to accommodate the placement of the air conditioner evaporator on the RH firewall. I had enough clearance to mount the module under the evaporator. This location permitted me to hide the module as best I could.

Global Cruise Module with Mounting Bracket

Mounting Bracket

Global Cruise Module Installed

Global Cruise Module Wiring

Because the Rostra kit is for universal applications, the wire runs in some cases are quite long and I decided to shorten a number of them which then effected some of the connectors that were used. There are also situations in which not all of the wiring provided is used.

My wiring diagram, tailored for my 1964 Jaguar MK2 application, is provided below. As the disclaimer at the top of this post indicates, the wiring description in this post journals what I did for my car. It is not my intention to describe what you should do for your car!

This is a link to the same wiring diagram as a pdf file rather than as a jpeg file.rostra-cruise-control-wiring-for-jag-mk2

The Rostra instructions for the Global Cruise Control Module indicate that the wiring emanating from the module needs to pass through a 3/4″ hole in the firewall. I already have an unused firewall port as seen in the image above, so I will use it for the wiring. I slid a firewall rubber grommet over the wiring harness to help seal the opening. The control module has a total of ten (10) wires, although the black and grey wires are spliced to create three black wires and two grey wires for a total of twelve (13) wires. The wires are “bundled” for routing through the firewall.

Bundle One: red/brown, yellow, black and green wires from the control module to a clear plastic female four pin connector. This connector is mated with a male four pin connector with four wires of the same colors. The red/brown, yellow and green wires are then routed to a male clear plastic flat four pin connector.

Flat Four Pin Connector from Global Control Module to Panel Switch

The black wire is routed to a male clear plastic two pin connector joining with a blue wire. These wires are not used in the system for the Jaguar. The black and blue wires are factory labeled as “to control switch six pin only.”

Red/Brown Wire – This wire is routed to a male clear plastic flat four pin connectorThis wire is routed to the “hot” side (constant 12+ volts) of the brake switch.

Bundle One Cruise Control Wires

Bundle Two: violet, grey, and brown wires from the control module to a clear plastic female four pin connector.

Bundle Two Cruise Control Wires

Violet Wire – This wire is routed to the “cold” side of the brake switch (0 resistance when brake is not pressed, and 12+ volts or open resistance when the brake is pressed.

Black Wire – This wire is spliced to create two (2) black wires. One of the black wires is joined with a grey wire in a clear female plastic connector with a label entitled “optional signal generator.” The other black wire has a ring terminal connector on it and is attached to a ground connection on the chassis.

Yellow Wire – This wire joins with the

Road Speed Sensor/Magnets and Pick-up Coil Installation

The Rostra instructions indicate that for rear wheel drive vehicles measuring distance traveled in miles per hour, one magnet should be used. Once I had the rear suspension in the car with the propshaft in the “normal” position I was able to install the speed sensor.

First, I bolted the road speed pick up coil to the thinner bracket supplied in the kit using the 1/4″-20 x 1 1/2″ bolt and the stamped nut being careful to not over tighten the nut as too much torque will damage the coil.

Second, I positioned the bracket under the car so that the coil bolt head was 3/4″ plus or minus 1/4″ from the propshaft and no more that 12″ in back of the U-joint. The pick-up coil was positioned in the middle of the propshaft and mounting holes were marked on the floor underside. I then installed two nutserts in the floor and mounted the bracket with two #10 -24 x 1/2″ machine screws.

Positioning the pick-up coil and bracket

Pick-up coil and bracket mounted

Third, secured the magnet with the long plastic tie strap provided. The ribbed side of the strap is against the magnet and seated between the two ribs on the magnet casing. I then tightened the strap using a screwdriver against the clasp and pulled the strap with pliers. This requires some effort to get the strap tight enough to avoid slippage. As the instructions indicated, I then cut the excess strap flush to 1/16″ from the lock.

Pick-up Coil and Magnet on propshaft

Fourth, I then ran the blue and grey wires from the pick-up coil under the car and up through a rubber grommet in the gearbox tunnel. The wiring then travels under the center console and up and under the dash exiting the firewall and connecting to the clear two wire plastic connector. I temporarily left the blue and grey wires without a connector, but will add the black male connector and cover the wiring in a rubber tube upon final installation. The Grey wire connects to the grey wire near the control module and the blue wire connects to the blue wire. Both will be shortened at final installation as well.

Wiring from Pick-up Coil

Pick-up coil wiring to gearbox tunnel

Pick-up coil wiring exiting Gearbox Tunnel

Pick-up Coil Wiring to Global Cruise Control Module

The female connector with the grey and black wires is identified from the factory with a white label entitled “optional signal generator.”

Optional Signal Generator Connector

Attaching the Cruise Cable from the Cruise Module to the Throttle

It is important for safety and proper operation to follow the instructions provided with the kit!

Because of its universal mounting applications, the Rostra kit includes numerous brackets and connectors. You end up using very few of the components that they provide. For the Jaguar 3.8 MK2, one needs to align the cable mounting and the Throttle Link Rod Assembly/Intermediate Throttle Lever.

Throttle Link Rod Assembly

Carb and Fuel Connections Schematic

I have “over-engineered” the bracket I fabricated for the cruise module cable, but I like to use existing holes/captive nuts and etc. whenever possible to avoid changes to the car’s body. In this case for the base of my bracket, I used two of the captive nuts available at the cover plate for the steering column on the RH side of the firewall since these are unused given that my car is LH drive.

The second image below shows the bracket and cable installed although it is somewhat difficult to ascertain the components.

Rostra Crusie Module Cable Bracket

Rostra Cruise Module Cable Brackets Mounted

As can be seen in the image above a yellow-zinc bracket attaches to the black bracket I fabricated and this zinc bracket actually anchors the throttle cable with two securing nuts. The threads on the vinyl covered throttle cable are actually formed by turning the lock washer nut clockwise on the cable.

Cable Connection to the Jaguar Throttle Assembly

Cable Sheath Threading

Many different cable ends are available in the kit. I used the eyelet shown in the image below. It fit perfectly on the clevis pin used in the Jaguar throttle assembly.

Cruise Module Cable End Connections

Throttle Cable Travel – This is a very important step. Failure to determine throttle cable travel could cause damage to your vehicle and/or Global Cruise.

The throttle cable travel must be at least 41mm (1-5/8″). Length is added by using the beaded chain provided in the kit. As shown in the image above, bead connector coupling sleeves must be used over the connectors.

Cruise Control Cable-Clevis Pin Connection to Throttle

Jaguar Electrical Components

Posted on May 12, 2017 by valv8988

In this entry I will identify some, but not all of the major electrical components in the MK2, that are not addressed in their own entry or post.

Electrical System Overview

The Jaguar MK2 being British and a product of the mid-sixties has a positive earth electrical system. The starting system utilized a battery mounted under the bonnet, an ammeter, a starter solenoid on the firewall, a starter motor, a dynamo – commonly referred to as a generator in the U.S., a voltage control box or regulator along with a fuse box consisting of just two fuses, a Lucas ignition coil and a Lucas distributor with manually adjusted points.

My Mk2 has an updated electrical system. I have converted the system to negative ground an have installed a significantly upgraded fuse box and complementary wiring harness.

Alternator

I am installing an alternator in lieu of the original dynamo/generator. The alternator I am using is an Hitachi manufactured by Valeo for the 2004-2008 Nissan Maxima. It produces 120 amps. Detail information:

Hitachi 120 AMP Alternator

Car Quest #11017A
Pure Energy # 13940N
Hitachi #LR1110710FAM
Plug 306
2 1/2” Pulley, 17mm shaft
OE Manufacturer: Valeo

I ordered the Connector plug or “pigtail,” from National Quick Start Sales: http://store.alternatorparts.com/partnoc1900.aspx

Part # C1900 Hitachi, Mando, and Mitsubishi Alternator Wiring Repair Plug, Female. Alternator Wiring Harness Repair Connector with 2 Female Terminals

B#: 180

Y: 2

X: C

Z: 010

Hitachi 120 AMP Alternator Electrical Connections

C1900 Hitachi Alternator Female Wiring Repair Plug

The alternator was supplied with a serpentine pulley. Because I am air conditioning the Jag, and the compressor uses a “V” belt, I switched out the pulley for a “V” pulley with a 17 mm shaft. I had to have a machinist turn the pulley on a lathe to cut away some material to end up with a good fit.

Being Japanese, the mounts for the alternator are obviously metric – and of different sizes! 18mm on rear bolt and 15mm on the front bolt with a 5/8″ wrench on both nuts.

The power input post for the Hitachi alternator is, unfortunately for me, on the top of the alternator when it is mounted to the motor. In this position, the top of the post is only about 1/4″ from the bottom of the steal air conditioner compressor mounting bracket. This can be seen in the image below:

Alternator Power Post

Obviously, this is not a good situation. Bill Rader, owner of Blue Sky Radiator and Electrical came to my rescue! He was able to place an adapter on the alternator that redirected to power post to the rear of the alternator thereby eliminating my problem.

Redirected Power Post on Alternator

Battery

To be determined.

Distributor

I had such good fortune with the Dutch “123” electronic distributor in my Big Healey, that I chose to use the same product in the MK2. The Jag does use a different model, number “Jag 6-R-V.” The unit offers 16 different advance-curves, that can be selected via a little switch. Information on the Forums suggests that the #1 or #2 advance curve may be the best to use with the 3.8 Jag motor with total advance of no more than 34 degrees. In our test runs of the engine we did NOT connect the vacuum line to the distributor. I will need to do additional research before settling in on a particular setting.

123 Electronic Distributor

SPECIFICATIONS
direct.	: CCW (topview)
voltage	: 4,0-15,0 Volts
range	: 500 – 7000 rpm
temperature	: -30 to 85 Celsius
coil	: stock or High Energy coil
	primary coil NOT below 1,0 ohm
dwell	: constant current, fully autom.
time-out	: after 1 second current is switched off
spark-bal.	: better than 0,5 degr. crankshaft
vacuum	: advance starts at 5 inchHg
	stops at 10 degr. @ 10 inchHg
	gearshift retard > 17 inchHg
max.advance	: 45 degr. crankshaft
wiring	: red = +6V or +12V, black = ‘-‘ coil

Installation instructions are available here:

123 JAG6 Distributor Installation Instructions

There is considerable debate in the Jaguar community about the the vacuum advance for the 123 distributor if used on the 3.8 engine. Some say to not connect the vacuum advance, others say to use the ported vacuum advance port on the carburetor, but my friend Mike Gassman, from Gassman Automotive has suggested that performance will be safely enhanced by using direct manifold vacuum. This article written by a retired General Motors engineer corroborates Mike’s thinking. Ported Vacuum vs Manifold Vacuum.

I am going to try the manifold vacuum for my project and see how the engine performs. I have decided to split the vacuum hose that connects the manifold and the brake reserve tank with a “T” connector. The smaller connection is then routed to the vacuum port on the 123 distributor. If you choose to do this, DO SO AT YOUR OWN RISK! Manufacturers would recommend against doing anything that might compromise braking vacuum but in my opinion, and that of others, the reserve tank provides more than ample vacuum pressure for the braking system.

Vacuum Line to Distributor

Ignition Coil

The original Lucas coil was replaced with a “Flame Thrower” high output, 3.0 ohm, 40,000 volt, internally resisted unit made by Pertronix, model number 40501. The coil has such a prominent place on the engine that I wanted it to look nice with the polished cam covers. Consequently, I opted to go with the chrome case for the “bling” effect, but it is also available in black.

Pertronix Ignition Coil 40501

Ignition – Spark Plug Wiring

I elected to purchase a ridiculously expensive assembled wiring conduit kit for Pertronix ignition from XKs Unlimited using 7mm black wire. The spark plug and coil ends are pre-installed.

Spark Plug High Tension Wiring with Conduit

Spark Plugs

I am using NGK BPR5ES plugs with a 0.045 gap as recommended by Paul Salt on the Saloon-Lovers Jag Forum for solid wires with no resistors. BP5ES otherwise.

Starter

“High Torque” or “Gear Reduction” starters are available for the MK2 3.8. These starters are considerably smaller and lighter than the original Lucas starter, but more importantly they have considerably more cranking power. The starter can be set up to either use or eliminate the original starter solenoid and I decided to keep the original set-up. I sourced the new starter from SNG Barratt.

SNG Barratt High Torque Starter

The starter is located on the right side of the engine and is secured to the bell housing with two 3/8″-24 x 1/12″ hex head bolts, flat washers and split washers. I am using the original starter solenoid on the firewall so it is necessary to connect the short jumper wire to the + terminal of the starter upon installation. Since it is a bit crowded once the starter is mounted I attached the cable from the starter to the starter solenoid before installation of the starter. A rubber boot was used to cover the terminal. It will be connected to the firewall starter solenoid after the engine is mounted in the car.

Starter Installed on Engine

Starter Installed on Engine – Close-up

Starter Solenoid

I am using a new reproduction solenoid. This is an image of a trial fitting of the solenoid on the Weather Protection Flange on the firewall.

Adaptor Plate Assembly for Solenoid and Solenoid Weather Protection Flange

Upgraded Brake Switch

I had planned to replace the MK2’s original hydraulic brake switch that activates the rear brake lights when the brakes are applied. The hydraulic switches currently available seem to experience a higher than normal failure rate. I encountered this same issue with my Austin-Healey 3000. In the Healey I replaced the hydraulic switch with a plug in the 4-way adaptor and installed a mechanical switch at the brake pedal. The wiring is the same as for the electrical switch. The mechanical switch was sourced from Watson’s Streetworks.

While I purchased the Watson’s switch to use in the MK2, I also found that Ron Francis Wiring sells an updated low pressure hydraulic switch that looks and mounts like the original. I decided to give this switch a try.

Ron Francis Hydraulic Brake Switch SW-32

Horns

The horns are located at the front of the car and on either side of the engine compartment immediately below the radiator. My 1964 MK2 was equipped with horn model number WT (Wind Tone) 618U. I media blasted the two horns after stuffing the Flute with paper to avoid getting sand in the workings. I then took the domed covers off the high and low tone horns and painted each horn with POR-15 and overcoated with their spray Blackcoat product. I then sent the horns to E. Lawrie Rhoades, 7 Knollwood Rd, Medfield, MA 02052-2703 to have the electrical mechanism cleaned and tuned. Lawrie is a recognized expert on horn and wiper motor repair.

Horn Assemblies

Horn Internals

Horn Mounting Brackets

Both of the horn mounting brackets were also media blasted and painted with the POR-15 products. As the Service Manual indicates, the bracket is important in providing a ground to the horn, therefore, “Care should be taken in ensuring a good contact between the earth strap and horn bracket on the left hand horn.” The horn is secured to the bracket with two 1/4″ – 28 x 3/4″ hex head bolts with shakeproof washers and 1/4″ – 24 hex head nuts. The bracket is fastened to the bumper bracket with a single 3/8″ -24 x 7/8″ hex head bolt with both a flat washer and a shakeproof washer followed by a 3/8″ – 24 hex nut.

The LH Horn is the Low note horn and the RH Horn is the high note horn.

This image illustrates the connection of the ground wire to the car’s frame. the wire eyelet is fastened to the frame with a 1/4″ – 28 x 1/2″ hex head bolt, shakeproof washer and a 1/4″ -24 hex nut.

Horn Ground Wire

Horn Mounting Bracket

This image illustrates mounting and orientation of the horns below the radiator:

Horn Orientation

Headlamp Dipper Switch

The Headlamp Dipper Switch was in good condition and was cleaned for reuse. The switch is secured to the floorboard with two #10 – 32 x 1 7/8″ hex head bolts through distance pieces with shake proof washers. A rubber cap is pushed over the end of the foot switch.

The upper part of the switch base plate is the shorter side with the mounting screw hole offset to the right. This orientation is instructive for the proper location of the switch wiring on the three terminals. The terminal farthest to the right has the blue/red single wire, the lowest terminal (closest to the floor) has the single solid blue wire, and the left most terminal has two blue/white wires.

Headlamp Dipper Switch

Dipper Switch Wiring

Headlamp Dipper Switch

Renewed Dipper Switch

Direction Indicator/Headlamp Flasher

My MK2 has a Model 85 unit. I cleaned the assembly. The wiring appeared to be in very good condition but the nylon “spring” that catches the arm in the left or right position was broken.

Direction Indicator/Headlamp Flasher Switch

Turn Indicator Flasher Side View

There was a time when Lucas made and sold repair kits to replace the nylon spring. Today they are a challenge to find but they do come up on ebay from time to time. I was able to purchase two of the repair kits. The kit includes the spring and the rivet used to hold the components together.

Lucas Turn Indicator Spring Set

Turn Indicator Nylon Spring

To replace the spring one removes two slotted screws from the plastic electrical fitting. This must be done carefully as there are a total of four springs between the aluminum housing and the plastic fitting.

Turn Indicator Springs

Once the electrical fitting is removed one has access to the rivet that must be drilled/cut out.

Turn Indicator Disassembly

Turn Indicator Rivet

It is a tedious and somewhat challenging task to install the new rivet. I actually visited Mike Gassman of Gassman Automotive to help me with the install.

Turn Indicator Rivet

I held the assembly in place over a steel rod while Mike used several punches to get the job done. We didn’t do as well as the factory but we succeeded.

After placing all of the electrical contacts, springs and nylon/plastic components in their proper place one carefully places the black electrical fitting over the assembly and compresses carefully while a friend (spouse) inserts and tightens the two screws that hold the assembly together. This little piece consumed a lot of energy and time, but now functions as new!

Turn Signal Indicator Lights

The MK2 used a short pigtail harness to connect the turn signal switch, the flasher relay and the indicator bulbs located on the steering column. My original harness was in very good condition and will be reinstalled after cleaning. Three warning bulbs are provided in the harness.

Turn Signal and Overdrive Indicator Bulbs, Holders, and Pigtail

The LH bulb for the LH turn signal, the center bulb to indicate overdrive engagement and the RH bulb for the RH turn signal. The two turn signal indicator bulbs are replaced with green BA7 LED micro bayonet bulbs and the overdrive bulb is a clear white BA7. Bulbs were sourced from 4sightautomotive lighting at http://www.bettercarlighting.co.uk. This image shows the original bulb as well as the LED replacement:

2 Watt Liliput Turn Signal Indicator Bulb and Replacement BA7LED Green Micro Bayonet Bulb

I am also using LED flasher bulbs at each of the four corners of the car. Using the LED bulbs requires a LED flasher relay that is incorporated into the Classic Technologies Relay/fuse panel that I am using for my electrical system. The pigtail is held in place by a small bracket located on the backside of the LH Fascia Board Assembly and the bulbs plug into the Upper Switch Cover Assembly at Centre of Steering Wheel.

Turn Signal and Overdrive Indicator Bulbs, Holders, Pigtail and Mounting Bracket on LH Fascia Board Assembly

Overdrive Operating Switch

This switch which activates the electric overdrive is located on the right side of the steering column. Power is derived from fuse position #14 on the CT fuse box. With lever activation a signal is sent to the overdrive interlock, or top gear switch located on the top of the gearbox and then to the overdrive solenoid. A warning indicator bulb is illuminated when the overdrive is engaged.

Switch, on Gearbox Top Cover, Operating Reversing Light and Top Gear for Overdrive Unit

These two switches are identical. As indicated, both are located on the gearbox. I purchased new switches, but found after testing that both original switches worked fine so I left the original switches in place.

Overdrive Interlock or Top Gear Switch at gearbox

Original and New Lucas Overdrive and Reverse Switch

Oil Pressure Element

The Oil Pressure element or sensor is located directly above the Oil Filter Assembly on the RH side of the cylinder block. I replaced the element with a new Lucas item.

Oil Pressure Element Mounted

Handbrake

Posted on April 21, 2017 by valv8988

Handbrake

Handbrake Calipers

The mechanical handbrake unit is mounted on and above the caliper bodies on the rear brakes by means of pivot bolts and forked retraction plates. The Jaguar Service Manual states: “The handbrakes are self-adjusting to compensate for friction pad wear and automatically provide the necessary clearance between the brake discs and the friction pads.”

“When the handbrake lever in the car is operated, the operating lever (A) is moved away from the friction pad carrier (B) and draws the friction pads (F) together. Under normal conditions when the lever is released the pawl (C) in the adjusting mechanism returns to its normal position, thus the normal running clearance between the brake discs and the friction pads is maintained.”

“In the event of there being increased clearance, the pawl will turn the ratchet nut (D) on the bolt thread drawing the adjuster bolt (E) inwards and bringing the friction pads closer to the brake disc until the normal running clearance is restored.”

Handbrake Calipers

This image from the Jaguar Service Manual illustrates the adjusting mechanism of the “self-adjusting” handbrakes used on later model MK2s.

MK2 Handbrake Adjusting Mechanism

This is a great video done by davejaguar66@gmail.com who rebuilt his XKE brake caliper assemblies:

When I removed the cover from the handbrake lever I discovered globs of what I expect was fifty year old grease. The covers looked like they had never been removed. What a mess.

Handbrake Ratchet Nut and Spring Clip

The parts were working properly but did not rotate smoothly. I cleaned the components and applied some new grease for lubrication and reassembled the adjusting lever.

In rebuilding my handbrake units, I kept the old pivot bolts that hold the handbrake calipers to the primary caliper body, but I did install new retraction plates, tab washers, friction pads, and adjuster bolts.

Handbrake Schematic

: Handbrake Components

The Handbrake Compensator Lever is mounted to the rear axle case.

Housing for Handbrake Shaft

Housing for Handbrake Shaft

The housing is made of brass and has a rubber seal. It is mounted with two 1/4″ – 28 x 7/8″ hex head bolts with split washers. I cleaned up the housing and reglued the rubber seal.

Handbrake Compensator Lever

: Handbrake Compensator

: Handbrake Compensator

The Handbrake Compensator Lever assembly was a greasy and dirty mess, but I eventually got it cleaned up with the preloaded tension set. This was the “Before” as mounted to the rear axle differential:

Handbrake Compensator Assembly

Handbrake Cable Support Bracket

The primary handbrake cable is supported by a bracket that is pop riveted to the underside of the floorboard. It consists of a thin metal strip with a nylon guide through which the cable travels. the nylon guide is secured to the guide with two #10 – 32 x 7/8″ bolts, flat washers and nylock nuts.

Supporting Bracket for Handbrake Cable

Handbrake Cables

The Handbrake cables were greasy and dirty, but otherwise appeared serviceable, but I decided to go ahead and replace them with cables sourced fromSNGBarratt.

Handbrake Cables and Components

Handbrake Lever

The Handbrake Lever from the shaft to the primary cable was cleaned up and painted with POR-15. The clamping bolt to the shaft is a 5/16″ -24 x 7/8″ hex head bolt with a split washer.

Handbrake lever from Shaft to Primary Cable

The Fork End of the Primary Cable

The Fork End at the Rear of the Primary cable was also cleaned and painted to use with a new primary cable.

Fork End at Rear of Primary Handbrake Cable

Handbrake Lever/Handle Assembly

Disassembling, cleaning, and reassembling the handbrake assembly was fairly simple and straightforward. I have not, as yet, been able to source new components for the assembly such as the spring, button and small pin that hold the pin to the internal rod. Until I do, I have chosen to not completely disassemble the handle. I would like to do so to have it rechromed, but it is not in terrible shape. We will see what materializes.

Handbrake Assembly Components

The pawl was a little rusty which I cleaned with the media blaster. I will definitiely send it away to have it re-zinced.

I first removed the cover plate, exposing handbrake pawl. This little piece was very rusty and it must be rechromed. It is held to the handle with two small self tapping screws that appear to be #2 x 1/4″. one of the screws was missing.

Cover Plate

I then removed the chrome hex head bolt that held the handle, spring mechanism, pawl, the bracket operating the handbrake warning light switch and the shaft together. This was achieved by loosening the nylock nut. The bolt is a 5/16″ x 1 1/2″ special purpose bolt.

Brake Shaft

Handbrake Assembly Chrome Hex Bolt

Handbrake Assembly Chrome Hex Bolt Removed

Chrome Hex Bolt, Nylock Nut, Bracket Operating Handbrake Warning Light Switch

For lack of a better term, the pawl has two bushings with shoulders through which the handbrake shaft passes. These will be reused.

Pawl Bushings

Handbrake Warning Lamp

The MK2 has a warning light for handbrake activation. The Switch, At Base Of Handbrake Lever, Operating Handbrake Warning Lamp is mounted to the interior floor with a Bracket. I am replacing the switch itself with a new component. The switch is held to the bracket with two adjusting nuts. The bracket is mounted to the interior floor with two #10-32 x 1/2 cheese head machine screws and lock washers.

Handbrake Warning Lamp Mounting Bracket and Switch

Handbrake Warning Switch

I media blasted the bracket and zinc plated it for and reuse.

Handbrake Warning Lamp Switch Mounting Bracket

Handbrake System Installation

I began the installation by attaching the LH and RH compensator-to-caliper cables to the compensator. I used new cables sourced from SNG Barratt. The fork ends at one end of the cable are attached to the compensator balance lever with clevis and split pins as are the other ends to the handbrake calipers.

Handbrake Compensator Assembly with Cables

I then secured the pre-assembled handbrake compensator assembly to the rear axle. Two 5/16″-24 x 3/4″ hex head bolts with split washers are used to attach the assembly to the rear axle carrier through its cover. Note: These are coarse thread bolts, not fine thread as is typically used throughout the car! These two bolts are 1/4″ longer than the other cover mounting bolts to allow for the width of the compensator bracket. Sorry for the dark photo. It is a challenge to get contrast when everything is black.

Handbrake Compensator Assembly Mounted

RH Handbrake Cable from Compensator to Caliper

LH Handbrake Cable from Compensator to Caliper

I then prepared the primary cable that runs from the handbrake shaft lever to the compensator. There is a fork end at the rear end of the primary cable that permits adjustment of cable tension. A universal jaw is then used to connect the fork and the compensator, locked in place with a clevis and split pin. I went ahead and connected the jaw end to the compensator.

Primary Cable from Lever to Compensator Assembly

Primary Cable from Lever to Compensator Assembly Mounted

The next step was to attach the housing for the handbrake shaft with its rubber seal to the propshaft tunnel. The housing is secured to the tunnel with two 1/4″-28 x 5/8″ hex head bolts into captive nuts on the inside of the tunnel.

Handbrake Shaft Housing

One can then insert the splined end of the shaft through the housing.

Handbrake Shaft Splined End

The handle end of the handbrake shaft is attached to the car floor and seat mounting crossmember with two bolts. The crossmember hex head bolt is 3/8″-24 x 3/4″ with a flat and split washer. The floorboard hex head bolt is 3/8″-24 x 1″. It goes through the mounting bracket and floor and is secured with a flat washer, and nylock nut. I found it easiest to install the handbrake first and then to install the handbrake warning light switch to the floor with the #10 machine screws. The seat crossmember bolt should be started initially and then the floor mount bolt.

Handbrake front mount bolt to seat crossmember

Handbrake Floor Mount Bolt through Floor

The handbrake warning light switch is depressed when the handbrake is not on. When the handbrake handle is pulled upward the switch is activated and the warning light illuminates.

Handbrake Warning Switch

Handbrake Assembly Installed

The handbrake lever previously mounted to the forward end of the primary cable was then slipped onto the splined handbrake shaft and the 1/4″-28 x 3/4″ hex head bolt was tightened to secure the lever to the shaft.

Handbrake Lever Attached to Shaft

To keep the primary cable from fouling against the propshaft, Jaguar installed a supporting bracket that is pop riveted to the floor. Since I will be dismantling everything before painting, I used #6 machine screws to temporarily mount the support bracket to the underside of the body.

Handbrake Cable Support Bracket Mounted

With the exception of final adjustment of the primary cable to achieve the proper tension, that completes the mounting of the handbrake system to the car.

Refitting the Handbrake Caliper Mechanism

I just followed the Service Manual instructions for refitting the handbrake calipers and friction pads. Although, as with most things, it is not quite as easy as it reads! With the handbrake caliper assembly in your hand (friction pads installed), the adjusting bolt is screwed into the ratchet nut until their is a distance of approximately 7/16″ between the friction pads, that is, the thickness of the disc plus 1/16. The split pin is then refit through the handbrake caliper friction pad carrier and the adjuster bolt to hold it in place. The entire unit is then “dropped” over the disc rotor and in place on the primary brake caliper. The two pivot pins, retraction plates and tab washers are then installed. Yes, it can be a pain to get these pins aligned.

The directions indicate that one is to pull and release the operating lever at the caliper repeatedly when the ratchet will be heard to “click over.” This operation is repeated until the ratchet will not operate which will indicate that the correct clearance is maintained between the disc and the friction pads.

I then connected the cross cables with their clevis pins. With the handbrake lever in the full down (slack) position, I loosened the lock nut at the rear end of the main cable and then “adjusted the length of the main cable by screwing the threaded end of the cable into the fork end to a point just short of where the handbrake operating levers at the calipers start to move.” The cables will have some slack in them when the handbrake lever is in the rest position.

I then tested the handbrake lever and found that I “locked-up” the rear brake rotors after six upward clicks n the handbrake pawl. I then made sure that I had all of the split pins installed and I declared the system functional!

Brakes MK2

Posted on April 15, 2017 by valv8988

The Front and Rear Brakes

The Jaguar MK2 uses a single line hydraulic system actuating disc brakes in both the front and rear of the car. While the four wheel disc brakes were “cutting edge” at the time of production for a four-door sedan, today, the braking action can be upgraded with vendor supplied modification kits. Front Brake Upgrade I decided to go with the Coopercraftbrake upgrade kit for the front and rear of the car. Up front, their four pot brake caliper range has been updated to include stainless steel pistons, a refined and improved caliper design for strength and efficiency. To gain some weight savings I installed the optional aluminum calipers. The system employs ventilated disc rotors that should help with cooling. No modifications were required for mounting. Every thing was a “bolt-on” application. Coopercraft provided fitting instructions with their kit:

Coopercraft Front Braking Installation Instructions

Calipers and Pads

Coopercraft Calipers

The photos above show the upgraded EBC “Green Stuff” brake pads. After installing the vented rotors on the front suspension crossmember assembly I installed the calipers finding that it appeared that no shims would be needed for proper fit. Two bolts secure each caliper to the stub axle housing lugs: The shorter 1/2″ x 1 1/8″ – 20 is at the upper mount and the longer 1/2″ x 2 5/8″ – 20 is at the lower mount. Each bolt is accompanied by a flat washer and a split washer. The cad plated brackets were used on the original brakes to support the union of the rubber brake hose to the metal caliper pipe. With the Coopercraft upgrade these are not used, as the hose links directly to the caliper.

However, I found that sliding the EBC pads into the caliper, on either side of the rotor, was difficult and the concluding fit was much tighter than I liked. After checking with Coopercraft, they advised that the EBC pads are about 2mm wider than the standard pads. I volunteered that while I was looking for an “upgraded” braking experience, I was not going to be racing the car. They suggested that I might want to go with standard pads rather than the EBC pads. They also recommended that if I was going with standard pads in the front brakes that I should do the same with the rear brakes. Oh well, just wasted money once again!

I ordered standard front pads to fit a Series II/III E-Type (the proper pad to fit the upgraded alloy calipers) JLM 9515 as well as standard pads for the rear 10821* from SNG Barratt and they fit just as they should. Wish that I had ordered the Mintex pads to begin with!

Coopercraft Vented Rotors, Alloy Calipers fitted with Goodridge Stainless Brake Hose and Hubs installed

Coopercraft Vented Rotors and Alloy Calipers with Standard Mintex Pads and Hubs Installed

Anti-rattle clips are added after the pads and pins are installed. These spring clips are part number 12292 and a total of four are required.

Anti-Rattle Spring Clips for Brake Pads Installed

Mintex Front Caliper Brake Pads

I replaced the original rubber brake hose with Goodridge stainless hoses. The larger fitting on the end of the hose is metric, 16 mm diameter – .50 with with a 16mm -.50 nut.

Goodridge Stainless Brake Hose

After mounting the calipers I safety wired the caliper mounting bolts.

Stainless Safety Wire and Twist Tool

I used 19 gauge wire that is probably a little heavier than needed but it worked just fine. If you are doing safety wiring, it can certainly be done with regular pliers, but the twist tool gives a very nice uniform appearance to the wire and is easy to use.

Safety Wire on Front Brake Calipers

No videos are perfect, but this short video gives you a pretty good look at how safety wiring should be done. There is sound but screen captions are used initially.

Rear Brake Upgrade

In the rear, the Coopercraft upgrade kit consists of four redesigned and uprated cylinders, incorporating stainless steel pistons in an alloy caliper. This kit utilizes the standard handbrake mechanism and is designed to maintain a good balance with their uprated front sets. As stated previously, I did not use the EBC pads and instead substituted the standard pad provided by SNG Barratt.

Alloy Rear Brakes

Rear Brake Friction Pads

The small tabs with holes in each brake pad is to permit the insertion of a hooked wire to pull the pad out when it is replaced. The pads are held in place by the Retaining Plate for Friction Pads as seen below with mounting hardware.

Rear Brake Friction Pad Retainer with Fasteners

The image below shows the Coopercraft Alloy Pistons and Housings installed in the original calipers with new pads secured by the pad retainer.

RH Rear Brake Caliper with Retaining Plate for Friction Pads Installed

The calipers need to be centered around the rotors and this is accomplished with the use of shims on the two bolts securing the calipers to the axle. On my car, I use five .010″ shims on the upper bolt of the RH caliper and five .010″ shims on the lower bolt. On the LH side, I used no shims on the upper bolt and two .010″ shims on the lower bolt.

Following assembly, I safety wired the mounting bolts for both rear calipers.

Safety Wired Rear Calipers

A warranty is also provided by Coopercraft:

Coopercraft Brake System Warranty and Liability

Rear Brake Caliper Rebuild

Rear Brakes

In addition to adding the new Coopercraft Piston/Cylinder Sub-Assemblies I completely rebuilt the Rear Caliper Assemblies including the Handbrake Calipers. As the image below illustrates the original silver color was long gone!

Left Rear Brake Caliper

To disassemble the calipers, I first separated the handbrake calipers from the primary caliper. To do so, I bent back the tabs on the Tab Washer and unscrewed the two Bolts, Securing Handbrake Mechanism to Rear Calipers. I then removed the Retraction Plate Fork that permitted the removal of the LH and RH Handbrake Pad Carrier Assembly with the friction pads. The Bolt, Securing Pad Carriers to Operating Lever was then unscrewed separating the two Carriers. I then removed the Support Plates for friction pads which simply fit into slots on the caliper body. Four 1/4″-24 x 7/8″ hex head bolts with shakeproof washers secured each Piston/Cylinder Assemblies. These were removed and the assemblies with the friction pads were removed. The Retaining Plate for friction pads was held in place with a 1/4″ – 24 x 7/8″ hex head bolt. It was removed and will not be replaced until the caliper is mounted and the new friction pads are installed. The Bridge Pipe Assembly and the Bleed Screw and Ball Assembly were removed from the Piston/Cylinder Assemblies and replaced with a new pipe and fittings. All components were then media blasted or otherwise cleaned and painted with Eastwood’s silver ceramic caliper paint. New bolts and screws were installed along with new friction pads.

LH Rear Brake Caliper Components

Right Rear Brake Caliper Refurbished

Rear Caliper LH & RH

Gearbox, Clutch and Propshaft

Posted on April 7, 2017 by valv8988

Clutch and Gearbox

Clutch Master Cylinder

I will replace the master and reservoir seen here with a new unit.

Clutch Master/Reservoir

Since the clutch master and the brake master share the same housing and pedal box, information about those components is addressed under the brake servo and hydraulics post at this link: https://valvechatter.com/?cat=615

Clutch Master Cylinder, Reservoir Mounted to Housing with new Pedal Rubber

Bracket for Flexible Clutch Hose at Rear of Cylinder Head

This little bracket is in a conspicuous location and called for re-chroming.

Clutch Flexible Hose Bracket at Rear of Cylinder Head

Slave Cylinder Hydraulic Pipe

A hard line attaches to the flexible stainless steel hose at the cylinder head bracket (shown above) and connects to the slave cylinder. It is held securely by one clip attached to the bell housing. The new line was sourced from Classic Tube along with the pre-bent brake lines.

Slave Cylinder Hydraulic Line

Clutch

The 1964 MK2 used a spring-loaded, hydraulically-operated, driven plate assembly with cover and a graphite release bearing. Later models switched to a diaphragm clutch. While the diaphragm cultch is probably easier to operate, I decided to stick with the original type in my restoration. The entire clutch assembly was purchased from SNG Barratt and installed by my engine builder, Mike Gassman, from Gassman Automotive. The unit was balanced with the engine for smoother running.

MK2 Clutch Diagram

MK2 Clutch Assembly

Release Bearing and Clips

Release Bearing Mounting Clips

Clutch Slave Cylinder

Fortunately, the replacement slave cylinder sourced from SNG Barratt is exactly the same as the original. the rubber boot is somewhat different, but otherwise identical. The new return spring is; however, shorter than the spring currently on the car. Not sure if it is a different spring or if the original is stretched. In any case, I shall try the new one (which did have the proper Jaguar part number) and see how everything functions.

Slave Cylinder
Assembly

The Jaguar Service Manual states that “there should be 3/4″ free travel or unloaded movement at the pedal pad before feeling the resistance of the clutch thrust springs. The free travel is most easily felt by depressing the pedal pad by hand until a marked resistance is felt. Adjustment is effected by slackening the lock nut and turning the operating rod between the slave cylinder and the clutch withdrawal lever. Screwing the rod into the knuckle joint will increase the pedal travel; screwing the rod out will decrease the free travel.”

MK2 Clutch Slave Cylinder Adjustment

Gearbox and Overdrive The gearbox is a four-speed type with synchromesh on the second, third, and top gears. The overdrive is a Laycock de Normanville. First and reverse gears are 12.731:1, Second is 7.012:1, Third is 4.836:1, and fourth is 3.77:1; with the overdrive engaged the top gear ratio is 2.933:1. A synchronized fiord gear was added later in production.

According to Nigel Thorleys excellent book – Original MK1/MK 2 the all synchro box was fitted in Sept 1965 from chassis no 119200 – 2.4 RHD 127822 – 2.4 LHD 169341 – 3.4 RHD 180188 – 3.8 LHD

MK2 Gearbox

MK2 Overdrive

Mike Gassman, http://www.gassmanautomotive.com refreshed the overdrive and the gearbox was sent to Quantum Mechanics in Connecticut. Both units were in good repair with the exception that the 3rd to fourth shift fork was bent and was replaced. The gearbox also had all bearings, synchronizers, seals and gaskets replaced. The gears were in good shape. The overdrive was cleaned, an overdrive rebuild kit installed and reassembled in good working order. A new solenoid was affixed and the system was tested.

Change-Speed Lever Assembly (Gear Shift) The change-speed lever has single flat washer above the selector lever.

There is a two part rubber bush inside the selector lever through which the selector shaft passes. There is a flat washer at each end of the bush. The washers have different diameter holes appropriate to the shaft size at each end of the lever. I cleaned the selector lever and painted it with POR-15. New rubber bushes were also installed.

Change-Speed Lever

Selector Lever

Painted Selector Lever

Assembly Components

There is a bronze bushing in the selector lever through which the pivot pin passes. This bush was also replaced with a new component. A new fiber washer is located on each end of the pivot pin. A double spring washer is located on the pivot pin and the assembly is held together with a slotted nut and a split (cotter) pin.

Change Speed Lever Knob

The correct lever knob for the early Moss gearbox (without first speed synchro) is a tear drop shape. The later box used a round shifter ball. A locking nut secures the shift knob to the shaft.

I ordered a new lever shaft and discovered that what is being supplied now is 3 inches shorter than the original. I will probably have my original lever shaft rechromed and use it.

Original Shifter on Left and New Part on Right

Pivot Jaw Holding Selector Lever

This device connects the Change-speed Lever (gear shift) to the Gearbox Top Cover. In the image below it is the black yoke which was cleaned and painted with POR-15.

Pivot Jaw Housing Selector Lever

The following image shows the components of the Pivot Jaw assembly: The Pivot jaw, two fibre washers, a bushing, a flat “D” washer, a spring washer and a slotted nut with split pin.

Pivot Jaw Assembly Components

This image shows the Pivot Jaw Housing, the Change-speed Lever, and the Selector Lever all assembled and in place on the gearbox:

Assembled Gear Selector Assembly

Fasteners for Gearbox to Engine The original fasteners were in good shape, no doubt due to the thick coat of oil and grease that encapsulated them! I media-blasted the bolts and nuts and had them zinc plated for use upon reassembly. There are eleven hex head bolts 3/8″ – 24 x 2 7/8″ with two 3/8″ – 24 nuts and shakeproof washers, and four 3/8″ – 24 x 1 3/8″ hex head bolts with four 3/8″ – 24 nuts and shakeproof washers.

Bellhousing fasteners

Cover Plate at Front of Clutch Housing The cover plate is fastened to the engine backplate with four #10-24 x 1/2″ hex head bolts and shakeproof washers. It is installed when the gearbox is mated to the engine when the two components are separated by approximately 2″. At that time the cover plate is slid into position and tightened against the lip of the gearbox bell housing with the four bolts.

Clutch Cover Plate

Clutch Cover Plate at Bell Housing

Gearbox/Engine Mating

On June 18, 2016 in preparation for the preliminary installation of the engine and gearbox into the car for testing, I mated the two components together using the bolts referenced above. In the cases where nuts are used, all nuts are found on the bell housing side. I had to wrestle with the gearbox a bit to get it to seat properly, but I eventually got there. One must be careful to keep the gearbox mainshaft level with the crankshaft to avoid bending the shaft.

Gearbox Mainshaft

I used my engine hoist to hold the gearbox at proper height during the exercise. Several long 3/8″ bolts were used to align the bell housing and the backplate of the engine, prior to inserting the proper bolts and pushing the gearbox home. As mentioned above, then the two components are approximately two inches apart, the clutch cover needs to be inserted and bolted in place.

RH Side of Bell Housing Mounted to Engine

LH Side Of Bell Housing Mounted to Engine

Ground Strap

The ground strap was connected to the engine/bell housing prior to installation in the car. A new ground strap was sourced from SNG Barratt. Note the proper location of the strap:

Ground Strap Mounted

Propshaft

The propshaft with the two flange yokes attached is just under 48″ long. The shaft seems to be in good shape, but I went ahead and replaced the two universal joint journals and bearings. Following installation of the universal joints I greased the two units and then cleaned the shaft well to send to Driveshaft Specialists in San Antonio, TX http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com (Jeff, 866-455-6622) for balancing.

Universal Joint Replacement

Duralast Universal Joints

Universal Joints Installed

Upon return from Driveshaft Specialists, I painted the propshaft with POR-15.

Propshaft with new Universal Joint

Balanced & Painted Propshaft

Gearbox/Overdrive Lubrication

After installing the engine and gearbox in the car I filled the gearbox and overdrive with oil. Mike Gassman, at Gassman Automotive, recommended using Amalie Elixir Full Synthetic GL-5 Gear Lubricant. The Jaguar MK2 Service Manual indicated that 4-3/4 pints of lubricant should be used.

Amalie Elixer Full Synthetic GL-5 Gear Lube 75W-90

This image, although a little out of focus, shows the fill plug near the top and the drain plug at the bottom of the gearbox. The overdrive fills though an internal hole from the gearbox to the overdrive.

Drain and Fill Plugs for the Jaguar MK2 Gearbox

While I could have used my hand pump to pump the gear lube from below into the fill hole, since my interior is not installed I removed the fiberglass gearbox cover and filled from above. I inserted a clear tube into the fill hole and routed it to the interior. I found that it actually took a little closer to 4- 1/2 pints to fill the units, even after waiting some time to allow the fluid to flow to the overdrive. I filled the gearbox until the gear lube began to leak out of the fill hole.

Fill Tube for Gearbox

Gauges, Instruments and Switches

Posted on December 13, 2016 by valv8988

Gauges, Instruments and Switches

Smiths and Lucas

Lucas was the primary provider of things electric incorporated in the Jaguar MK2 and for that matter most other British cars of the period. Smiths, another British automotive parts manufacturer produced instruments/gauges, heaters, clocks and radios among other components. Eric Kriss, a fellow MK2 restorer, has an excellent history of the relationship of Lucas and Smiths on his Blog: http://fairislepress.com/WP/?p=3736.

The speedometer and tachometer are located immediately behind the steering wheel directly in the driver’s view. Most of the other gauges, instruments and switches are located in the Instrument Panel Assembly in the center of the interior’s dash.

I sent all of my instruments to Nisonger http://www.nisonger.com for cleaning, calibrating and refurbishing where necessary.

Tachometer

Nisonger converted the tach to a negative ground electronic tachometer. These are the instructions for installation:Nisonger Electronic Tach Instructions

Clock

On the MK2, the clock is located inside the tachometer. I removed the clock (loosening two machine screws on the back of the clock/tachometer) and sent it to Mike Eck, mikeeck@optonline.net to have repaired as it was not functioning. He also convert the clock to negative ground.

Clock/Tach

Speedometer/Speedometer Cable

I gently cleaned the speedometer and mailed it to Nisonger with the other gauges. It came back in beautiful condition.

Speedometer

As part of the preliminary install process I added the new speedometer cable – 96″ variety in the engine bay. It is secured by one clip just above the steering column. It is then routed over the top of the gearbox to the passenger side of the car. I have researched how the cable is to be properly secured under the car as it routes to the fitting on the gearbox, but as of December 2016 I have yet to learn anything definitive. Consequently, I have temporarily zip-tied the cable to the fuel line along the passenger side chassis rail as seen below. The objective is to mount the cable in such a way that it has direct unimpeded access to the gearbox fitting with no cable binding.

Speedometer Cable Install

Speedometer Cable Mounting

Instrument Panel Assembly

Instrument Panel Assembly

In numerous Jaguar models the interior designers incorporated a handsome centrally-located gauge and switch panel. The panel is made of pressed steel with a copper bath and is hinged at the lower edge of the panel. The hinges are mounted to fixed nuts in the bodywork by four 1/4″-24 x 1/2″ hex head bolts with shockproof and plain washers. Loosening two thumbscrews at the top of the panel makes it possible to easily rotate the panel to access the wiring for the gauges and switches at rear of the panel.

Instrument Panel Assembly Face

Instrument Panel Assembly

Following the removal of all of the toggle switches and instruments I cleaned the panel assembly. Amazingly the vinyl material on the face of the panel was in very good shape. However, I decided to replace it with a similar material sourced from Aldridge Trimmers in the UK. I did so because I plan to cover the mounting panel for the air conditioning central vents, located immediately below the instrument panel, with vinyl and I want the materials on the two panels to match. The vinyl was secured to the panel with 3m Super 77 spray adhesive.

While not the same as the original Rexine Leathercloth, the grain is almost identical. Eric Kriss researched the Rexine product determining that is was made by Rexine Ltd. of Hyde, England. The leathercloth was actually cloth “impregnated with cellulose nitrate, camphor oil, pigment and alcohol and then embossed to look somewhat like leather.” Eric located this wonderful advertisement for Rexine:

The lighting and identification label strip for the toggle switches is comprised of several components.These images show the diffuser screen after clean-up.

Diffuser Screen

There are three bayonet style bulbs spaced evenly along the bottom of the panel assembly. I have replaced these incandescent bulbs with BA7 LEDs.

2 Watt Liliput bulb and replacement BA7LED white micro bayonet bulb

This is an image of my finished instrument panel assembly showing the new vinyl, restored gauges and switches:

MK2 Instrument Panel Assembly

As one can see, the panel includes four gauges: an electric water temperature gauge, an electric oil pressure gauge, an electric fuel gauge and a voltmeter. The car originally had a ammeter in the place of the voltmeter, but since I converted my car from the original dynamo (generator) to and alternator it made much more sense to install a voltmeter to monitor the electrical system.

Instrument Panel Assembly Gauges

Water Temperature Gauge

The Smith’s electric water temperature gauge has two electrical terminal connections. One, for voltage to the gauge sourced from a solid state voltage regulator (stabilizer) located behind the instrument panel, and the second, for the temperature input from the sensor located in the intake manifold. The voltage regulator reduces the voltage to the gauge from 12 to 10 volts. The gauge is illuminated by a dedicated BA9ES White LED, replacing the original incandescent bulb. The blue filter was removed from the gauge to provide an improved white light. The image below shows the original incandescent gauge light bulb and the BA9ES White LED now used in each of the gauges.

Original Incandescent Gauge Light Bulb and BA9ES LED

Oil Pressure Gauge

The Smith’s oil pressure gauge assesses pressure up to 60 psi. The gauge has two electrical terminal connections. One, for voltage sourced from the 12 volt terminal on the voltage regulator, and the second, for the pressure input from a sensor device (transmitter) located at the oil filter housing. To reduce signal noise for the optional radio, Jaguar incorporated a capacitor (condenser) with the sender. The gauge is illuminated by a dedicated BA9ES White LED, replacing the original incandescent bulb. The blue filter was removed from the gauge to provide an improved white light. Eric Kriss provides an informative diagram on his blog that illustrates the functional aspects of the oil pressure sender:

Oil Pressure Sender

Fuel Gauge

The Smith’s fuel gauge works much the same as the water temperature gauge. The gauge has two electrical terminal connections: One, for voltage to the gauge sourced from a 10 volt terminal at the solid state voltage regulator (stabilizer) located behind the instrument panel, and the second, for the fuel level input from the sender located in the fuel tank. The gauge is illuminated by a dedicated BA9ES White LED, replacing the original incandescent bulb. The blue filter was removed from the gauge to provide an improved white light.

Voltmeter/Ammeter

With the installation of an alternator replacing the original dynamo (generator) it makes more sense to have a voltmeter among the dash gauges. So I replaced the ammeter with a Smiths voltmeter sourced from Caerbont Automotive Instruments through Rogers Motors an ebay vendor.

One typically finds the voltmeter with a chrome half-“V” bezel, but Rogers will supply the full “V” bezel to match the bezels on the MK2, and it can be ordered in black. The only problem I ran into is that the black paint on the bezels did not match. The new bezel being too glossy. I took it apart and painted the bezel satin black – still too shiny. I then scuffed it up and repainted flat black – not shiny enough! Finally, I just took the bezel off of the ammeter and fit it to the new voltmeter and now all is well. Getting the black full “V” bezel was an extra $15.00. It comes standard with chrome. If you do what I did, save your extra $15.

The original instruments are in a metal casing. The new voltmeter is plastic. The bezel on the ammeter rotates and then slips off when the bezel tabs line up with slots in the casing. On the plastic casing you have to carefully bend up the bezel tabs and after installing on the plastic casing bend them down to grip the plastic. On the plastic casing there are no slots for alignment.

Voltmeter to Replace Ammeter

These are the installation instructions provided with the gauge:

Voltmeter Installation Instructions

Some notes about voltmeters from the mgaguru.com:

“The volt meter is a high resistance low current device which can be connected directly across the battery. In practice you can connect the earth side of the volt meter to any convenient chassis ground point. It is a good idea to connect the signal side of the volt meter to a circuit which is switched by the ignition switch, so it will be disconnected from the battery when the car is parked. It is convient to connect it to the output side of the ignition switch.

Connect the volt meter + and – terminals to battery + and – respectively. If you get it wrong the meter will peg on zero with power on. When correct it read near mid scale, hopefully a bit above 12 volts with engine running. When you blow the horn it will dip just slightly lower. When you crank the engine for starting expect the battery voltage to drop noticeably lower (hopefully not below 10 volts).

Additionally the volt meter can give you indication of the state of charge of the battery. Switch off all lights and accessories, switch off the engine, and switch on the key without starting the engine. If the volt meter reads 12 volts or more the battery is near full charge. If the volt meter is showing much less than 12 volts, then either the battery is somewhat discharged, or the battery is failing and in need of replacement.”

Switches and Other Panel Components

The instrument panel assembly includes six toggle switches, a rotary light switch, a starter button, the ignition switch and what Jaguar referred to as a “Cigar” lighter. The toggle switches are “off” when switched to their lowest position on the panel.

Washer Switch

The washer switch is a momentary switch activated when the toggle is pushed upward. When released the toggle reverts to its lowest “at rest” position. The switch has two electrical terminal connections. One, to ground connected to a post on the back of the panel, and the second, to the washer bottle motor. My original switch was broken so I installed a new one from SNG Barratt.

Wiper Switch

I chose to upgrade my wiper motor with a kit supplied by Classic Motor Cars in the U.K. Installation of the wiper system is detailed in another posting: https://valvechatter.com/?p=6612

The kit uses a model 29 W Lucas Motor, part# 75967D that I believe was used for XJ series Jags in the eighties and early nineties with a modified original switch to operate the system. The kit also included new control boxes and a wiper rack cable. There are seven electrical terminal connections on the switch. One, to ground on the back of the panel, another to the fuse panel for power, and the remaining five wires route to the wiper motor for the two speed and park function.

Map Switch and Panel Switch Repurposing

The third toggle switch from the left on the instrument panel assembly was originally designed as a switch to turn on a map light that is provided just under the Screen Rail Capping Assembly (wood dash top). The panel switch (second from the right) was originally intended to alternate the panel lights between bright and dim settings. It is hard to fathom why Jaguar viewed this as necessary given that even the bright setting of the switch still provided grossly inadequate lighting, at least by today’s standards.

Eric Kriss, in his MK2 restoration, decided to repurpose these two switches to enable the possibility of an integrated hazard (flasher) circuit in his electrical system. With his permission and invaluable instruction I decided to adopt Eric’s modification in my own car.

Therefore, in my MK2, the panel switch sacrifices the bright/dim feature and is repurposed to control the panel and gauge lights as well as the map light. It then becomes possible to utilize the original map light switch as a hazard switch. The panel switch is a three position OFF-ON-ON switch. The middle setting is now used to turn on the three translucent strip edge lights on the panel as well as the gauge lights. The upper setting is now used to also turn on the map light.

The image below shows the original map light and also the new LED strip that will replace the single incandescent bulb:

Original Incandescent Map Light and LED Map Light

Terminal #4 on the panel switch is used to connect to the power source at the fuse panel. Terminal #6 connects to the map light and terminal #7 has two wires with one connecting the four LEDs in each of the panel gauges and the other connecting to the three LEDs in the lower section of the panel to illuminate the label strip.

Hazard Switch

As described above the map light switch is repurposed to serve as a switch to activate the hazard flashers. I had actually purchased a new reproduction hazard switch but I never liked that it appeared as an “add-on” device and the warning was a bit complicated. Implementing Eric’s repurposing plan integrates the hazard function into the instrument panel assembly. The wiring connections for the switch are addressed in the post documenting the new wiring harness.

Starter Button Switch

The original starter button was cleaned and reused. The switch has two electrical terminal screw connections. One to the fuse panel, and the second, to the ignition switch at the ING terminal.

Ignition Switch

My original switch functioned just fine, so I decided to just clean it and reinstall. On my ignition switch there are three electrical terminal connections: B+, IGN and ACC. All three are wired to various positions in the Classic technologies fuse panel. The IGN terminal has a double terminal connector to permit wiring to the starter button switch.

Fan Switch (57SA)

The fan switch has three positions: the lower position is “off.” The middle position is “Low Speed” and the upper position is “High Speed.” The wire to terminal # 4 is the power source. Terminal #8 is the high speed fan connection and terminal #6 is the low speed connection.

Interior (light) Switch

The interior light switch is a simple “ON-OFF” switch. Again, following Eric Kriss’s lead I have modified the interior light circuit. Originally, the switch when moved to the upward position activates the B/C pillar lights as well as the the rear interior lights and interacted with the four door switches. In our modified circuit, the cubby light/switch and the boot light/switch are included. The switch has two electrical terminal connections. One to ground on the back side of the panel, and the second, to the various lights and switches incorporated in the modified circuit. Additional information about the interior lights may be found at the “Interior Lights” post.

Light Switch

The rotary Lucas three position light switch actually has four settings:

O – Off

S – Side/Tail/License Lights plus others if switched

H – S + Headlights

F – S + H + Foglights

Lucas Three Position Light Switch

Terminal #3 of the light switch has two connections. One, to the chime that has been added in my wiring plan to warn the driver if the lights have been left on upon exiting the car, and the second, to the exterior lights. Terminal #5 is connected to the fuse panel providing current to the switch. Terminal #6 is connected to a relay for the Fogranger lamps. Terminal #7 is connected to the floor dipper switch for the headlights.

DIAGRAM TO BE ADDED

Cigar Lighter

Jaguar incorporated a cigar lighter in the instrument panel assembly. I purchased a new cigar lighter from SNG Barratt and will use this as an alternative power supply for a 12-volt accessory plug. The lighter has two electrical terminal connections. One, to ground connected to a post on the back of the panel, and the second, to the fuse panel. The wire on the second terminal connects through a 4-way snap connector with a wire for the radio and for a supplementary USB port.

Chime

All vehicles today have chimes or alarms to alert the driver that the lights have been left on upon exiting a car. I thought it a good idea to incorporate this feature in the wiring schematic for the MK2. I used a very inexpensive chime available from Radio Shack, part # 273-071B. The chime is wired to Terminal #3 of the light switch and to the driver’s door (LH) switch. It is located on the back side of the instrument panel assembly.

Radio Shack Chime for Headlight Warning

Voltage Regulator/Stabilizer

Although new reproductions of the original Lucas voltage regulator for the instrument panel gauges referenced earlier are available, a better alternative is to use a modern electronic unit for greater reliability. It is available from CoolCat Express Corp: http://tinyurl.com/k9zayo2

These are the instructions for the installation of the voltage regulator:

SSIVR Installation Instructions

This little device receives fluctuating DC current from the battery and outputs a steady 10 volts to enhance the accuracy of the gauge readings.

Voltage Stabilizer Wiring

Rear Suspension

Posted on December 12, 2016 by valv8988

Rear Suspension Mounting

Rear Suspension

The MK2 rear suspension is a live axle leaf spring design utilizing bonded rubber bushings and pads. Torque arms with bonded rubber bushes at each end fit between brackets welded to the top of the axle and to a body cross-member at the back of the rear seat panel. Lateral location of the suspension is by means of a rubber mounted pan hard rod fit between brackets on the rear axle and the right hand chassis side member. Damping of the rear suspension is by telescopic hydraulic dampers located between brackets on the rear axle and the front of the luggage compartment floor. The dampers incorporate the bump and rebound stops which limit the movement of the rear suspension.

Rear Suspension Jag MK2

Rear Road Springs

The rear road springs are rubber mounted at the front, center and rear. I was going to reuse the rear leaf springs but after disassembling them I found them to not have sufficient arc on the lower leaf. The manual calls for a camber of 3.45” to 3.78”. Mine only measured about 3.25. I could have them re-arced, but I decided to just purchase new springs from SNG Barrett.

Free Camber On Road Spring 3.45″ to 3.7″

I noticed that the original springs had rubber “buttons” located between the leaves. The new replacement springs from SNG Barratt do not, and while not a condemnation, I notice that these springs are also made in India. I heard reports from a number of MK2 restorers that the rear of the car was sitting high with these springs.

All of this caused me to look a little harder for springs closer to the originals. Owen Spring in the UK makes MK2 springs that at least look much closer to the original design including the “buttons.” Owen uses British Classic Car Parts to market their classic car springs. I spoke with Jody Walker the product Development Engineer and decided to purchase a pair after he sent images to me. Quite a bit more expensive than the SNG Barratt product, but hopefully a superior spring that will yield the proper ride height. Including delivery to Virginia the springs were a little over $500.00.

British Classic Car Parts

Unit 8, The Old Saw Mills, Colaton Raleigh, Devon, EX10 0HP, UK.
+44(0) 1395 568777 | Mobile +44 (0) 7969 013702 |

jody@bcc-parts.com | www.britishclassiccarparts.com

Owen Spring MK2 Rear Leaf Springs

Polybush Mounting Pads and Bushings for Rear Road Springs

Polybush pads and spring eye bushes were substituted for the original rubber. The rear eye bushes were also substituted.

Spring Mounting Plates

I did blast the Clamping Plate, Securing Road Spring at Center and the Mounting Plate Assembly at Front End of Road Springs with aluminum oxide and after cleaning well painted these components with gloss black POR 15 and was very satisfied with the results:

Front & Center Leaf Spring Mounting Plates

Trial Fitting the Front Leaf Spring Mounting Plate

Rear Torque Arm Assembly

The torque arms were blasted and painted. New polybush bushings with inserts were installed. As the photos show it is useful to have a large socket (1 7/8″) and a fender washer handy to help press in the bushings with the aid of a little soapy water. Four hex head 7/16″ – 20 x 2 1/2″ bolts with 7/16″ flat washers and 7/16″ – 20 nylock nuts secure the torque rod ends to the body and the axle.

Torque Arms & Bushes

Getting it Started

Squeezing the bushing

Torque Arms and Polybushings Installed

Panhard Rod

I could have cleaned up the washers and the Panhard Rod, but decided to simply replace the assembly with new components. The assembly is held together by a 1/2″ – 20 nylock nut at each end of the rod. I replaced the rubber bushes with Polybush bushes.

Panhard Rod New and Old

Panhard Rod Assembly

Rear Shock Absorbers

Mike Eck mikeeck@optonline.net a frequent contributor to the MK2 Forums and email list recommended using Monroe air shocks in the rear of the car. With their adjustability the ride height of the car can be modified. Curiously, they are also recommended for and fit some Edsel models! I decided to give them a try. They were available from my local NAPA store. They may be inflated up to 150 psi. They are sold as a pair including air line, air fittings, and air fill kit. Although the image below shows the shocks as white they are actually black.

Mike states:

“They each have a compression fitting and they come with a length of hose, a “T” junction and a single Schrader valve, but there’s nothing to keep you from plumbing your own separate system. They have about 2.75″ of adjustment range. When I give them about 20 psi the rear of the car seems to disappear. I steer the front and the rear simply follows along. Give ’em a try!”

Specifications:

Monroe MA705 Rear Shocks

Installation of the Rear Suspension and Axle

I had heard from a number of folks who have actually installed the MK2 rear suspension that hanging the axle in the car with the torsion arms and leaf springs can be a real challenge. I don’t know if I had beginner’s luck or if I just had the sequencing of the process nailed perfectly, but whatever the reason, I installed the assembly by myself without any real difficulties. I should note that one piece of equipment made the job much easier than it might have otherwise been: a motorcycle/ATV lift. I purchased mine from Harbor Freight for $69.00, but they are available from Sears, Home Depot or other similar stores for less than $100. This device makes the axle much more stable and balanced than it would be on the single pedestal of a floor jack.

Motorcycle ATV lift

At the time of installation, I had the brake rotors, calipers, new hubs with new bearings and the hydraulic pipes mounted on the axle. I chose to wait to secure the handbrake assembly to the axle until after the axle was in the car. More information about the axle assembly can be found in the “Rear Axle Post” of this website https://valvechatter.com/?p=4072

This is the sequence of my installation:

As a service manual indicates final tightening of the bolts securing various components to the chassis must be carried out with the car in its normal riding position, that is, with full weight on the suspension. So in the sequence of steps below, all bolts/nuts are left loose and will not be tightened until he cat is under load.

First, I installed both torsion arms to the vehicle mounts.

Torsion arms with mounting bolts and nylock nuts

LH Torsion Arm Mounted to Chassis

As mentioned above I used polybush bushings and I liberally coated the outer surfaces of the bushes with Prothane Super Grease. I used this grease on my Healey when I restored it in 2008 and have never experienced any squeaking. I happened to purchase the grease from Summit Racing but it is available from other similar vendors as well.

Prothane Super Grease

Prothane grease on torsion arm poly bushing

Second, I installed the LH and RH Front Spring Mounting Plates. I started each of the three mounting bolts for each bracket and all were left very loose.

Third, I placed the axle on the motorcycle lift and slid it under the car and into position to jack up to each of the torsion arms. This worked quite easily. I then slid the mounting bolts through the chassis mount and the torsion arm and loosely secured the nut to the end of the bolt for each side of the car.

Axle on Motorcycle Lift

Axle Linked to Torsion Arm

Fourth, after the axle was secured to each torsion arm with the 7/16″-20 x 2 1/2″ bolts and unlock nuts, I placed the axle on jack stands with wooden blocks in roughly the position I thought would be appropriate for the propshaft and the leaf spring eyes to keep the axle from swinging.

Axle mounted on torsion arms resting on jack stands

Fifth, I slid a leaf spring into its front mount and rested the eye end of the spring on my floor jack sufficiently high enough to hold the spring in place without slipping out of the front mount.

Spring Eye on Jack

With the rubber center cushions on the leaf spring I placed the center spring mount in position and loosely tightened the mounting bracket in place. This was made easier by starting with longer bolts than are specified and switching to the shorter bolts after the bracket is tightened down. Care should be taken to insure that the rubber cushions are centered in the bracket.

Spring Positioned on Center Chassis Mount

Sixth, I was then able to use the floor jack to lift the spring into the axle mount although I could not perfectly line up the eye hole in the spring end with the holes in the axle mount. I found that a fairly large “C” clamp worked like a charm to squeeze the holes into alignment allowing me to then insert the bolts and loosely tighten the nuts to secure the spring end to the axle.

“C” Clamp

Rear Spring Bolt in Place with Clamp

Seventh, I removed the two axle jack stands and allowed the axle to “drop” to a lower position. I then slid the floor jack under the differential pumpkin and raised the assembly slightly higher than the propshaft when it was held parallel to the garage floor. This gave me sufficient “angle” to align the propshaft rear face with the differential and I bolted them together. I used lock washers and nuts in the photo but I will substitute nylock nuts at final installation. By the way, on final assembly the leaf springs will get cleaned up and repainted as well. The spring paint as provided by the manufacturer didn’t survive the shipping from the U.K.

Propshaft Fastened to Rear Differential

Next come the panhard rod, the shock absorbers and the handbrake components.

The installation of the handbrake system is fully documented in the “handbrake” website entry: https://valvechatter.com/?p=3913

Rear Shock Absorbers or Dampers

As referenced earlier in this post, I am using Monroe air shocks on the rear of my MK2. This is a pdf of the Installation Instructions including diagrams: Monroe Air Shock Installation Instructions

Each end of each shock uses the following rubber bushes and cupped washers for mounting the shocks to the vehicle.

Rear Shock Rubber Bushes and Cupped Washers

As one can see in the photo above, the two sides of the rubber bushes are not alike. The larger diameter “shoulder” side of the bush faces against the cupped side of the washer, while the smaller diameter “shoulder” fits against the opening in the body in the case of the upper mount and against the hole in the rear axle bracket in the case of the lower mount.

I first loosely mounted the upper ends of both of the shocks to the mounting holes in the body of the car which are located in the back rear LH and RH sides of the boot. It is useful (if not required) to have a helper to assist with this. The helper installs one cupped washer and rubber bush to the end of the shock and then pushes the shock through the floor. One must be careful to orient the air line fittings on the shock bodies so that they face inwards. This will become important later when the plumbing for the air pressure lines is installed.

Another rubber bush and cupped washer can then be placed on the threaded shock shaft inside the boot and a nylock nut can then be started on the threaded shaft. The larger diameter end of the shock faces upward.

LH Rear Shock Upper Boot Mount Loosely in Place

To install the lower end of the shock I found it helpful to first use my motorcycle/ATV jack (A floor jack would be fine) to raise the axle. I then placed a cupped washer and rubber bush on the end of the threaded shock shaft and pulled down on the shock to extend it through the hole in the mounting bracket on the axle. This does take a bit of arm strength!

Installing Lower End of the Shock

I then placed another rubber bush and cupped washer on the threaded shock shaft below the mounting bracket and again loosely mounted the shock by tightening the nylock nut.

Lower End Of Shock Loosely Mounted to Axle Bracket

I then insured that the shoulders of the rubber bushes were located inside the holes of the boot floor and the axle bracket and free to rotate in the holes. I then tightened the nylock nuts on both ends. I started with the upper ends but I don’t think it would matter. It is useful to hold the top of the shock with vice grips or a wrench so that the shock does not turn while tightening.

Lower End of Shock Tightened with Bushing Compressed

The image below shows the LH rear shock installed in it mounts. Plumbing the air is next.

LH Rear Shock Installed

The next step was to do the “plumbing” for the operation of the air shocks. The “kit” that came with the shocks was part number AK18.

Monroe Shocks Air Fittings Part #AK18

This involves connecting the fitting on each shock to a central “T” fitting roughly in the center above the axle.

“T” Air Fitting

Air Lines to Shocks

I temporarily secured the air hose to the fuel pipe with plastic zip ties. Before painting the car, but after the axle is removed I will install a few permanent clips to secure the hose to the chassis.

Air Hose from LH shock to -T- Joint

From the “T” fitting a single air hose runs to the the Schrader Valve (like a bicycle or car tire valve) used for filling the system. I decided to locate the schrader valve in the boot behind the casing assembly on the LH side of the luggage compartment. I made a little bracket from some scrap aluminum that I had and mounted it to the floor of the compartment using two #10-24 x 1/2″ machine screws into nutserts that were installed in the floor. A 3/16″ hole was also drilled into the floor to allow the air hose to enter the compartment from below. A small rubber grommet was used to protect the air hose and to keep out moisture.

Schrader Valve Aluminum Mount and Rubber Gasket

Schrader Valve Mount NutSerts and Rubber grommet for air hose

Schrader Valve Mounted in LH Boot Compartment

Following installation I tested the system by filling the lines with 90 lbs. of pressure. Everything held tight with no leaks. I then backed the pressure out to 20 lbs. and that is what I will try initially based on the recommendation of Mike Eck. As one can see in the image below, there is approximately 1/2″ of unpainted surface on the shock tube which was the result of the expansion of the shock piston due to the air pressure.

Shock Adjustment with Air Pressure

Panhard Rod Installation

As can be seen in the image above the panhard rod was the next component in the rear suspension to install. I used polybushes rather than rubber for the panhard rod and just as Eric Kriss had reported, the polybushes are simply too wide to allow mounting of the unlock nuts on the end of the threaded rod. I ended up cutting one bush in half with a hack saw blade and fit one half on each outer end of the rod. Hopefully, this work satisfactorily.

Again, as recommended in the Service Manual I left the nylock nuts loosely fitted and will not tighten until the weight of the car is on the ground. I also loosened the adjusting piece with a wrench. The Manual offers directions on the alignment procedure for the panhard rod once under load:

“Place a straight edge across one rear tire and check the distance to the flange of the chassis side member at the point at which the rear spring centre clamp is bolted; repeat for the other side. The point of the chassis side member flange at which the dimension should be taken is between the two bolts which secure the rear spring centre clamping plate.

The dimension at each side (A, Fig 6.) must be the same. If they are not, adjust the length of the panhard rod until the two dimensions are equal by rotating the panhard rod tube with a pair of grips. Fully tighten the securing nut at the rear axle bracket end and recheck the adjustment. Finally, tighten the nut locking the adjusting pieces the panhard rod tube.”

Panhard Rod Adjustment

Rear Differential Lubricant

With everything related to the rear axle and suspension in place, the last step in the process is to add the differential lubrication. Mike Gassman, of Gassman Automotive recommended using an AC Delco (General Motors) additive product. It is universally available and I ordered a couple of 4 ounce bottles.

Limited Slip Lubricant Additive

Having spilled a tiny bit of the stuff, I can see why Mike likes to add it. It is very slippery! After pouring the additive in first, I then added SAE 80W-90 Gear Oil. I think most any brand will do. The Jaguar Service Manual calls for 3 1/4 pints, but I always just fill the diff until the oil begins to overflow the fill hole and then I button it up.

Rear Diff Lube

My differential screw plug flat surfaces were stripped on the corners so I replaced it with a new one from SNG Barratt. While the threads match and it “fits” it will not screw-in to the point where the shoulder is flush with the casing. Just one more example of replacement parts not be exactly the same as the originals – not a complaint, just an observation.

SNG Barratt Diff Plug

Battery Relocation to the Boot

Posted on December 12, 2016 by valv8988

Battery Relocation to the Boot

Installing the RetroAir air conditioning kit requires the relocation of the battery, and the most commonly used place is the shelf in the MK2 boot. The RetroAir kit provided a plastic battery box, battery cable and various connectors, but I chose to “upgrade” the kits components.

Battery Cable Lugs

First I decided to use battery lugs to take the battery cable through the boot floor rather than taking the cable directly through a rubber grommet in the floor. I used Waytek’s “Battery Feeder Stud” for this purpose. http://www.waytekwire.com/products/ One in black for the ground cable, part# 36663, and one in red for the power cable, part# 3662. I located these to the right of the battery mounting.

Waytek Battery Lugs

Battery Lugs Mounted – Under Carriage View

Battery Lug Rubber Covers

I found some rubber covers for the battery terminals and lugs that work quite well. They were sourced on-line from the Electrical Hub.

http://www.electricalhub.com/battery-terminals-and-lugs/insulator-battery-boots

Battery Terminals and Lugs Rubber Covers

Battery Hold Down Mount

While the plastic box provided in the RetroAir kit would certainly work, it took up considerable space as well as not being very attractive – even if it does go in the boot! I chose to use a Billet Specialties product http://www.billetspecialties.com, part# 248910, that in my opinion is both attractive and space saving. I mounted this as far to the right side of the car as possible. The tray mounts to the boot floor with four 1/4″ – 24 x 1″ hex head stainless bolts, flat and shake proof washers.

Markings to Locate Battery Tray

Billet Specialties Battery Tray Mounted

I intend to make a carpet-covered plywood panel to hide the rear compartment of the boot. Similar to this one:

Boot Panel

Battery Isolator Switch

And, I will install a Waytek battery Isolator Switch with a detachable key, part# 44075, in the upper right corner of the panel. It certainly won’t stop professional car thieves but it does provide one more deterrent to the criminal. The lower photo shows the Optima Red Top battery (borrowed from my Austin Healey for fitting purposes) and the approximate location of the isolator switch. A 20″ red power lead part #35976 also from Waytek was used to provide the connection from the battery to the red lug. A 15″ black ground lead, part number 35965, was used to connect the battery to the black lug.

Waytek Battery Isolator Switch

Battery Mounted with Isolator Switch

Battery Cable to the Engine Bay

I debated about running the battery cable along the RH frame rail or to route the cable through the interior to the engine bay. I ultimately decided to mount it on the frame rail. The brake line to the rear axle and the fuel line from the fuel filter in the engine bay to the fuel pump also run along the RH frame rail.

I used a combination of single and double stainless steel clamps to secure the battery cable, brake line and fuel line to the frame. http://tinyurl.com/kuzn3k8 The upper clip was used for the battery cable and the fuel and brake lines were housed in the lower clip.

Double Line Clamp

I used #10-24 rivet nuts or nut serts set into the frame rail to attach the clamps. The rivets require a 19/64″ hole in the metal stock and conveniently the holes already in the frame for the original brake/fuel line spring clips were that size of at east very close to it. This meant that I did not have to drill any new holes. The rivet nuts are easy to install using an inexpensive little tool. The nuts are screwed on to the threaded rod and inserted into the frame hole. One holds the larger nut (7/8″) stationary while tightening the outside smaller (11/16″) nut. This pulls the nut firmly against the frame rail creating essentially a captive nut.

Rivet Nuts and Tool

#10-24 Rivet nut installed in frame

The following images show the installation of the cable and brake/fuel lines. The battery cables runs from the lugs below the boot floor. the black ground cable is securely bolted to the frame while the red cable runs to the engine bay.

Wiring From Battery Lugs

I left some slack in the cables because I still need to install the rear suspension torque arm and panhard rod which may require moving the cables a bit.

Spaghetti?

Battery Cable Routing from Rear Lugs to Starter Solenoid

I will cut the cable to the desired length, solder a terminal on the end and mount it on the rear-most solenoid terminal post after more engine bay items are mounted.

Battery Cable Routed from Boot to Starter solenoid

The image below shows the battery cable trimmed to the proper length, covered with Techflex F6 wire sheathing and mounted to the front-most post on the starter solenoid. The cable to the starter is mounted to the rear-most post on the starter solenoid. Total cable length was about 150 inches.

Starter Solenoid, Battery Cable, Starter Cable

This image shows the final cable locations in the rear after the rear suspension components were installed:

Battery Cables from Boot Final Adjustment

Steering Wheel

Posted on November 15, 2016 by valv8988

Steering Wheel

This is a diagram showing steering column components.

Steering Wheel Assembly

The disassembly procedure I followed is outlined below:

First I removed four slotted set screws from behind the steering wheel this enables the horn ring cover to be removed along with the horn push and return spring.

Horn Ring Assembly

The horn ring assembly is held in place by three small nylock nuts (#6?) on studs. These nuts were removed and behind each nut was a nylon shouldered washer. The horn ring assembly is spring loaded so when the third nut is removed one needs to be careful not to lose the springs behind the assembly. After the three nuts and washers are loosened the horn ring can be lifted away.

Horn Assembly Springs on Studs

This reveals springs on two of the studs and a mounting plate held in place by three cheesehead machine screws. The springs were set aside and the three screws and slit washers were removed allowing the subsequent removal of the mounting plate with its three studs.

Horn Assembly Mounting Plate

This revealed the horn button wire which contains the contact button, a spring, a small flat washer and a circlip holding the assembly together. a tubular black insulation piece is behind the wire assembly and slips into the shaft. It is NOT necessary to disassemble this horn contact wire in order to remove the steering wheel.

Horn Electrical Contact Wire, Retaining Clip, Washer and Spring

Also revealed was a locking Palnut on the steering shaft that was removed with a 15/16″ socket.

Steering Palnut on Shaft

Steering Palnut Removed

After removing the Palnut, the nut and special washer securing the steering wheel to the inner column shaft can be seen and removed. A 1 1/16″ socket was used. The steering wheel could be then be removed from the shaft.

Steering Shaft Nut with Special flat washer

Steering Shaft Cone for Seating the steering wheel on the Shaft

Care must be taken to not lose the two-piece split cone that seats the steering wheel on the shaft. These are revealed following removal of the steering wheel.

New Wiring Harness Circuits

Posted on October 24, 2016 by valv8988

Power Inputs to the Classic Technologies’ Relay/Fuse Panel

The Classic Technologies Panel has four primary connections.

Classic Technologies’ Relay Fuse Panel

A – 12V power input from the small fuse box (battery B+) to power the accessories circuits. A brown 12 AWG wire is used to the Yellow screw terminal spade lug connection.

B – 12V power input from the small fuse box (battery B+) to power the high and low beam headlight relays. A brown/blue 14 AWG wire is used to the Blue screw terminal spade lug connection.

C – 12V power input from the small fuse box (battery B+) to power the constant power circuits in the vehicle. A brown 12 AWG wire is used to the Red screw terminal for a spade lug termination.

O – ground or earth to the car’s chassis.

In my case, 12V power is routed from the battery in the trunk to the starter solenoid mounted centrally on the firewall in the engine bay. The negative terminal of the battery is wired to the car’s chassis. A ground strap is used to connect the grounded chassis to the engine/gearbox.

Ground Strap Mounted

The battery relocation to the boot was addressed in a previous post.From the solenoid, a brown 8 AWG wire delivers power to a small fuse box with six circuits mounted on the firewall directly below the starter solenoid. I used two nutserts for the mounting to the firewall. Three of the six fused circuits are then used to provide power to three input terminals on the Classic Technologies’ relay/fuse panel. The additional three are spares for the moment.

OnLine-LED-Store Six-Way Fuse Box

This is a diagram of the wiring to the Relay/Fuse Panel:

Rose Jaguar MK2 Power to the Classic Technologies Fuse Box

Six Way Firewall Fuse Box Delivering Power to Classic Tech Relay:Fuse Panel

The three wires from the small firewall fuse box, the white/red wire from the solenoid to the fuse panel and the heavy 4 AWG cable from the solenoid to the alternator will be “packaged” together in one TechFlex sleeve/cover.

Before getting into the allocation of the thirty-four fuse positions available to use in the Classic Technologies Relay/Fuse panel, it might be helpful to once again point point out that as indicated in the post on new wiring harness connectors I developed a spreadsheet to be used in conjunction with wiring diagrams. The spreadsheet lists all connection points of the electrical wiring system. Links are provided below:

Again, a disclaimer is appropriate: The spreadsheet is provided as guidance for those who might wish to do something similar, but it should not be duplicated or utilized without careful inspection and approval by a certified automotive electrician.

This alphabetical listing of components is provided to help quickly identify items in the electrical system. A spreadsheet line number(s) associated with the component is indicated.

Rose Jaguar MK2 Electrical Connections Alpha listing

This is the spreadsheet showing all connections:

Rose Jaguar MK2 Electrical Connections Spreadsheet

The following four diagrams illustrate the wiring sourced from the thirty-four fused positions in the system. Please let me know if as a reader you note an error or an omission. I apologize for the somewhat primitive diagrams as I did not have proper software available to do the job. I resorted to “Keynote” a presentation software to complete the task.

Rose Jaguar MK2 Fuse Positions 1-8

Rose Jaguar MK2 Fuse Positions 9-16

Rose Jaguar MK2 Fuse Positions 17-25

Rose Jaguar MK2 Fuse Positions 26-34

Circuit Modifications & Additions

Several of the modifications I am making to my MK2 require either modified or new electrical circuits. I highlight below the details of some of these wiring changes.

Starter Solenoid

I replaced the original starter solenoid with a new one sourced from SNG Barratt. The large post closest to the firewall provides the mounting for the 4 AWG cable to the starter. The large post closest to the engine mounts three cables: the 2AWG cable from the battery, the 4AWG cable to the block connector on the electrical panel on the LH engine bay valance (ultimately to the alternator), and a 8AWG wire to the 6-way firewall fuse panel. On the upper small post on the solenoid a single wire from the starter button is attached.

Alternator

I have considerably more power requirements in my car than could be addressed by the original dynamo/generator.

The specifics of the Hitachi 120 amp alternator I am using may be found under the “electrical components” posting. However, I will detail the wiring to support the alternator here.

I decided to go with 4AWG cable and also decided to install a fuse in the line between the alternator and the wiring system to avoid any possibility of a problem with a power surge created by a bad regulator in the alternator.

I sourced the cable and fuse from CE Auto Electric Supply. The folks at CE Auto Electric Supply are very helpful and they sell high quality products. Both products are typically used in high-end sound system applications. This particular cable has 1,862 strands. The cable was terminated with 3/8″ terminals, properly crimped and covered with adhesive shrink tubing.

Alternator Cable CE Supply 4AWG 1862 Strands

I installed a JL audio premium series master ANL fuse block with a 125 amp “Stinger” ANL style fuse, part number SPF52125 on the lower right portion of the original fuse panel.

ANL 125 Amp Fuse with J&L Holder

Two three-quarter inch long machine screws were used to secure the fuse block to the panel. On one I was able to take advantage of the 10–32 captured nut that was already on the fuse panel, and on the other I used a nutsert with the 10-24 screw.

One of the nice features of this particular fuse block is that the ProStar hexagonal posts can be rotated so that the cable can approach from almost any angle. As you can see in the photo, I took advantage of this feature. After the engine is installed, the alternator cable will be cut to proper length.

As can be seen in the image, the cable from the ANL fuse connects to a connector block also used for the power steering.

Alternator Fuse Mounted

The cable is then routed from the connector block along the LH valance and the firewall to the starter solenoid. It is difficult to track because of all of the in-process wiring, but the path of the alternator cable is visible in the image below:

Alternator Cable Wiring

Power Steering Pump

The installation of the power-assisted rack and pinion steering requires the conversion to negative earth and the installation of an alternator replacing the original dynamo/generator. The kit, as supplied, provided a Lucas 80 amp LMA 604 alternator. However, due to other electrical requirements I chose to upgrade to a 120 amp Hitachi alternator. Details about the alternator are found at this link: https://valvechatter.com/?p=4113.

M&C Wilkinson provided wiring instructions, but my configuration is slightly different than in the application they referenced. The wiring diagram below is my interpretation of the wiring required for the pump in my car.

Five wires emanate from the pump. The heavy brown wire connects to ground. The heavy red cable connects to the supplied 80 amp fuse. The 22 gauge black wire connects to the fuse panel at location #19 or #23. The 22 gauge blue/slate wire connects to the alternator at the indicator lamp post.

Rose Jaguar MK2 Wiring Diagram for Electric Power Steering Pump

In this image I have installed the 80 amp fuse for the power steering pump. The Bosch relay will be used for the Fogranger fog lamps. All of this will be out of view once the black sheet metal cover his made for the panel.

Power Steering Pump, Alternator & Fogranger Wiring on Electrical Panel

Heater Fan Wiring

A full description of the restoration and modification of the heater box and fan may be found at the Heater Post on this Valvechatter website. The following information addresses the wiring of the heater fan.

The orange wire from the motor is connected to ground. The black wire to the “inside” post (closest to the heater box) of the resistor. The slate wire from terminal #6 on the switch is connected to the “outside” post (closest to the blower fan) of the resistor. The white/green wire from terminal #8 on the switch connects to the “inside” post on the resistor. The green/yellow wire from the #4 terminal of the switch is connected to the fuse position #11 for power. With this wiring in place, the lower position of the switch is “off,” the middle position is “Low Speed” and the upper position is “High Speed.”

I created a pigtail (seen below) from the resistor for the heater fan wiring. Two wires in the pigtail are connected through two-way snap connectors to wires of the same color which route through the firewall and ultimately back to the Fan Switch. The black wire in the pigtail goes directly to the fan motor. The orange wire from the motor is the ground and it is connected to the LH valance grounding terminal strip.

Heater Fan Wiring

Wiper Motor Wiring

As documented in my post entitled Wiper System Upgrade, I installed a Lucas 29W wiper motor kit from Classic Motor Cars in the UK. The upgrade includes a relay mounted behind the central instrument panel assembly. The wiring for the wiper switch is referenced above under the section “Instrument Panel Assembly Switch Wiring.” This is a diagram of the wiring:

Rose Jaguar MK2 Wiper System Wiring

This is an image of the wiper motor mounting. I used eight of the ten connection points in a ten-way rubber snap connector and fastened it to engine bay RH valance with an original type retaining clasp. note the wiper motor ground connection to the upper left.

Wiper Motor Mount and Wiring

Cruise Control Wiring

A full description of the installation of the Rostra Cruise Control System in my MK2 is provided in the MK2 Cruise Control Post. My wiring diagram, tailored for my 1964 Jaguar MK2 application, is provided below. As the disclaimer above indicates, the wiring description in this post journals what I did for my car. It is not my intention to describe what you should do for your car!

This is a link to a pdf of the wiring diagram and it is also shown in the image below:

rostra-cruise-control-wiring-for-jag-mk2

Rostar Cruise Control Wiring for the Rose MK2

Central Locking and Keyless Entry Wiring

A full description of the locking system may be found at the “Remote Control Door Locks web site entry: https://valvechatter.com/?p=9205. The wiring for the system is comprised of two components. The MES Central Locking Control Module operates the door lock actuators. Once that system in properly installed and operating as it should, the AVITAL keyless entry module is added to permit use of a key fob to wirelessly lock and unlock all doors. An added feature of the system is that about fifteen seconds after ignition all doors are locked automatically.

The following wiring diagram is unfortunately a bit busy. This is a link to a pdf file of the diagram: Keyless Entry Power Locks for Rose Jag MK2 and a jpeg file is depicted below:

Keyless Entry Power Locks for Rose Jag MK2

Air Conditioner Operating Controls Wiring

A full description of the installation of the RetroAir air conditioning system in my MK2 is provided in the “Air Conditioning” Post. The wiring of the controls and devices for the air conditioning system is depicted in the following diagram:

Rose Jaguar MK2 Air Conditioning Wiring

This is a photograph of the wiring harness provided in the RetroAir kit. In my application I did not use the circuit breaker shown in the image because I wired the blower switch directly to the fuse panel and protected the system at that point with a 40 amp fuse.

RetroAir Wiring Harness Kit

As the diagram above illustrates, I chose to install a trinary pressure safety switch in the air conditioning electrical circuit. The trinity switch is also discussed in the “Air Conditioning Post.”

Vintage Air Trinary Switch

The Vintage Air trinary switch kits combine low and high pressure compressor clutch cut-off functions plus an electric fan engagement signal at 254 psi. The low pressure cut-off of these trinary switches is 30 psi and the high pressure cut-off is 406 psi.

http://www.vintageair.com/Instructions2013/904678.pdf

The switch as supplied has two blue wires and two black wires. Because the switch is located in a right from wheel well and exposed to the elements, I connected the four wires to a waterproof connector purchased from British Wiring, and then routed the wires to their termination points. One blue wire is for ground and the other for fused power. One black wire connects to the compressor and the other to the thermostat controller for the air conditioner.

Turn Indicator and Headlamp Flasher Switch at the Steering Column and the Laycock De Normanville Overdrive Switch and Wiring

The electric overdrive is activated by a lever switch on the right side of the steering column. Power is derived from fuse position #14 of the CT fuse box. With lever activation a signal is sent to the overdrive interlock, or top gear switch located on the top of the gearbox and then to the overdrive solenoid. A warning indicator bulb is illuminated when the overdrive is engaged. More information about the switch and lever mechanism may be found in the “electrical components” post.

Overdrive Interlock or Top Gear Switch at gearbox

The lever on the left side of the steering column is used in an upward and downward motion to activate the LH and RH turn indicator flashers at the front and rear of the vehicle. When the flashers are functioning an indicator bulb located in a centralized position behind the steering wheel is illuminated in a flashing pattern. The headlamp flasher is activated by the driver pulling the same lever toward himself. This action will trigger the high beam warning light in the speedometer.

Rose Jaguar MK2 Flasher Circuit & Overdrive

Turn Signal Switch Wiring

Turn Signal and overdrive indicator bulbs, holders, and pigtail

Auxiliary Power/USB Ports

I intend to install an arm rest/console between the front seats in my MK2. The console will include an auxiliary power/USB port unit. Power is sourced from the fuse box, position #12.

Auxiliary Power and USB unit

Powered Front Seats

The front seats I am using are from a Jaguar XJ40. More information about the seats is available at the “Seating” post. They have more features than I plan to use.

1990 Daimler Front Seats

Although the wiring harnesses were complete, there were a number of electrical connectors on the harnesses with no explanation as to what needed to be connected where to get the seats functioning.

Seat Wiring Harness and Switches

The seats have seat heaters (upper and lower cushions), a memory feature for the driver’s seat, seat belt alarms, and wiring to permit automatic movement of the driver’s seat to the aft position when the driver’s door is opened.

After some enquiries on the Forums, Bryan Neish came to my aid. He was of great help figuring out what the wiring at each of the connectors did. I know he spent quite a lot of time reviewing wiring diagrams to find what I needed. George Leicht was also helpful. He sent along the wiring diagram that accurately reflected my seat wiring.

I wired the seats to unswitched power at the fuse box to facilitate seat operation before entry or before starting the ignition. I was able to use the original seat wiring harness and bank of switches to control the four motors adjusting the lower and upper seat cushions for each chair. The wiring runs under the center console to each seat. A pdf file of the seat wiring schematic for 1990 may be found here: 1990 Jaguar XJ40 Seat Electrical Schematic

I have yet to decide where I will mount the switches. The image below shows the approximate location of the switches as Ton Tulleken installed them on his car:

Possible Placement of Seat Switches

Kevin Moore’s MK2 power seat switches

The image above shows the location of the switches in Kevin Moore’s car.

Lighting

SideLights

Additional detail about the sidelamps may be seen in the exterior lighting post. I rewired the original side lamp fixtures and trial fitted them to the body. The rubber “O” rings supplied by SNG Barratt are to thick to fit properly so I replaced them with metric 24mm – 2mm “O”rings ordered from McMaster Carr. New LED bulbs were also fitted in the fixtures. The red 18 AWG wire from the bulb is combined with a black 14 AWG ground wire from the fixture in a vinyl sleeve that goes through the LH and RH valance lighting grommet.

SideLamps

RH Side Lamp Wiring & Sleeving

Refurbished side lights installed

Turn Signal Flasher Lamps

After installing the side lamps I moved to the turn signal flashers. Information about the lamps is contained in the exterior lights post. I re-used the original fixture wire terminals but replaced the power and ground wiring with new. The power wire is blue/green 18 AWG and the ground wire is black 14AWG. The wiring is pushed through holes on the back end of the fixture’s new rubber boot. New vinyl sleeving was also used for the flasher lamps.

Front Flasher Turn signal

Turn Signal Flasher with LED Installed

Turn Signal Flasher Wiring

Fograngers

More information about the fog rangers may be found in the exterior lights post. The Classic Technologies Fuse box did not have a relay designed into the product for fog or driving lights, so I added a Bosch relay for this function. It is mounted on the original fuse panel in the engine bay on the LH valance. The foglights are controlled by the primary light switch.

Rose Jaguar MK2 Fogranger Wiring

Fogranger Relay

RH Fogranger Installed

Headlights

More information about the headlights may be found in the exterior lights post. I installed new 3 wire (high beam, low beam, and ground) plugs, wiring and sleeving for the headlights.

Headlight Installed with Newly Chromed Trim Ring

Although not too pretty yet, this image shows the temporary installation of all of the front exterior lights. The blue painter’s tape is to protect the chrome. The installation was done to make sure that I had all the parts needed for a particular light and to test the electric circuitry and switches.

Temporary Installation of front Exterior Lights

These images show the exterior lights wiring in new sleeving as it is routed from the individual fixture through the large wiring grommet located on each valance.

LH Front Exterior Lights Wire Sleeving and Routing

Tail Lights

More information about the tail lights may be found in the exterior lights post. I substituted LED bulbs for the original incandescent type; however, the wiring remains the same. In fact, I was able to reuse the original wire leads from each of the bulb holders. The upper bulb is for the flasher with a single wire lead. The lower bulb is for the regular lights plus an additional light for the brakes with a double wire lead.

Tail Light Wire Leads

Tail Light LED Bulbs

Number plate illumination and reverse lamp

More information about the lamp may be found in the exterior lights post. The lamp includes one light for the luggage compartment, two bulbs for the license plate illumination, and one bulb for reversing. All original incandescent bulbs were replaced with LEDs. The original wiring harness for the lamp was in pretty good shape, but I constructed a new one with all fresh wiring.

Boot Lamp with new wiring harness

Luggage compartment lamp

As my friend Eric Kriss points out in his MK2 restoration blog, the luggage lamp seemed to be an afterthought to Jaguar engineers. To function the light switch on the gauge panel had to be turned on, but it is often the case that one would want to access the luggage area after the car’s ignition, much less its lights were turned off! Instead of wiring the luggage compartment lamp in series with the front marker and rear tail lights, Eric revised the wiring to move the luggage compartment lamp to its own circuit. To make the lamp illuminate when the boot lid is opened a position sensitive mercury tilt switch is used. As Eric describes, when upright a ground connection is established permitting current to flow to the bulb. When the boot lid is shut, the ground connection is broken so the light goes off.

Interior Lights

The MK2 as original had six interior lamps: the map light at the central gauge panel, a lamp at the top of each center or “B/C” pillar, a lamp in the cubby box and a lamp on each side of the rear of the car above the passenger seat. These latter lamps referred to as rear quarter interior lamps. My Mk2 will also have two courtesy lamps in the back of the front seat headrests. More information concerning these lamps may be found at the “Interior Lights” post.

As pointed out in the “Interior Lights” post, the replacement center pillar lamps are not exact replacements for the originals. They are operationally superior in that they provide an “on-off” switch at the lamp, and also because they screw, rather than snap, together. They just don’t look quite as nice being plastic rather than chrome metal. Just to check fit and to test the electrical system I did install the new center pillar lamps mounted on their wood bases. An additional grounding wire is used with the new lamp for its switch so there are three wires rather than the original two. For purposes of testing the electric system I temporarily fixed the third ground wire to the pillar as shown in the third photo below.

36 mm festoon bulbs in warm white were substituted for the original incandescent bulbs.The lamps are wired to the interior lighting circuit that includes the interior lamps toggle switch on the central gauge panel as well as the four door switches. The black ground wire is simply attached to the metal center pillar.

New three-wire center pillar lamp with switch

New center pillar lamp loosely mounted on wood base

Temporary ground connection for center pillar lamp switch

I trial fit the new, but as original, rear quarter lamps which required making new plywood mounting frames. Wiring for the rear quarter interior lamps initiates at fuse box to the interior lamp switch on the gauge panel and then proceeds through the LH and RH sills to the lamps. There is also a switch in each door that activates the interior lamps should any of the four doors be opened. I did not use wiring pigtails for these lamps. 36 mm festoon bulbs in warm white were substituted for the original incandescent bulbs.

Rear Quarter Interior Lamp

LH rear quarter interior lamp

I am using XJ40 powered seats in my MK2. The seat headrest lights were originally wired in such a way that they too illuminated when the car’s doors were opened. These lights also have an integral on/off rotary or dial switch. Without the central processor of a more modern car it would be all too easy to leave these lights on and eventually drain the battery. Therefore, I elected to wire these lamps to a switched power source rather than a constant power source like the other lamps. I did not use the terminal on the headrest light that would normally have a red/green wire to the door switches.

XJ40 Hedrest Lamp Installation

I was able to use the original door switches in my rebuild. I just rewired each of them with new wire.

Front Door Interior Light Switch and Wiring

The front door switch is mounted in the lower door hinge and travels through the kick panel to the switch.

Front Door Interior Light Switch in Lower Door hinge

Front Door Interior Light Switch Wiring through Lower Kick Panel

The rear door switch is mounted in the rear side of the B/C post or center pillar. The wiring for the switch travels from under the front dash, through the sill and up the center pillar.

Rear Door Interior Light Switch in Center Pillar

The Cubby Box lamp assembly wiring for Lamp/Switch consists of a metal base fixture, bulb, blue plastic cover and a switch controlled by opening the Cubby Box door. More images and information regarding the lamp may be found at the “Interior Lights” post. As with the other interior lamps, the original incandescent bulb was replaced with a 36 mm festoon bulb in warm white. Terminals on the back side of the metal lamp base connect to the fused power source and to the Cubby Box door switch. The image below illustrates the wiring sources and terminations for the Cubby Box.

Cubby Box Wiring for Lamp/Switch

Some Details on a Few Other Assemblies

The LH and RH Fascia Board Assemblies were installed in the car so as to test the wiring for the speedometer and its warning lights, the tachometer with the internal clock, the “Handbrake “ON” position and brake fluid container level” warning lamp, and the “Cubby” glove box lamp. More information on these fascia boards may be found at the “Dash” post. All gauge/instrument illumination incandescent bulbs were replaced with LEDs.

I first connected the left turn signal flashing indicator, the right turn signal flashing indicator, and the overdrive engagement indicator from the indicators wiring pigtail to the direction indicator/headlamp flasher switch. A ground wire for the indicators was mounted to the body below the dash.

Ground connection under dash for indicator lights

Loose fitting of fascia board for tach install

I found it easiest to loosely position the driver’s side fascia board and I then installed the tachometer with its two mounting clamps, a ground wire, the 12 volt power wire, the wire connecting the tach to the coil and the two instrument lights. Leaving the speedometer position open facilitates accessing the LH fascia board outside mounting studs/nuts.

LH fascia board temporary install with tach in place

I then secured the LH fascia board to its mounts, followed by connecting the wiring for the handbrake/brake fluid level warning lamp.

I then connected the two speedometer illumination lights, the lights for the headlamp, ignition, and fuel warning lights, and the speedometer drive cable.

Installing the passenger side (RH) fascia board is much the same as the driver’s (LH) side. A sliding panel in the cubby box may be removed to provide access to the studs/nuts of the outside mounting bracket. The wiring for the “Cubby” lamp as shown in the write-up and image above is connected to ground and power.

Fuel Sender

The fuel sender has its own short wiring harness consisting of three wires in a protective sleeving. One wire for ground, one for the fuel gauge (the “T” terminal on the sender for 10 volts) and one for the fuel level warning lamp in the speedometer (the “W” terminal on the sender). The embossed terminal markings are evident on the image below. My sender has an “E” marking for earth, although my grounding wire was fixed to one of the screws used to mount the sender to the tank. While the original harness was in good shape, I made a new one for installation in the Jag when the fuel tank is fitted.

Original Fuel Sender Wiring Harness

New Fuel Sender Wiring Harness

Fuel Sender Terminals

Warning Light for Handbrake and Fluid Level

Handbrake and Fluid Warning lamp Escutcheon

The lamp is activated by a switch at the base of the handbrake, mounted to a bracket located on the interior floor. See: https://valvechatter.com/?p=3913 under the handbrake post, or by a level indicator switch in the brake fluid reservoir is shown earlier in this post.

Handbrake Warning Switch

The “Warning Lamp Indicating Handbrake ‘ON’ Position and Level in Brake Fluid Container” is comprised of the cover and window assembly, a spring washer on the central terminal post, with nuts and washers. Rubber sleeves are slipped over the white wire at the terminal and the white and red/green wires are contained together in a rubber sleeve of about 4.” The warning light was cleaned and reassembled and a new face plate was installed.

Warning Lamp

Hydraulic Fluid Reservoir, Low Fluid Warning Switch

The fluid canister contains a float activated level indicator switch in its screw cap.

Hydraulic Fluid Container Location

Two wires attach the switch with spade connectors and are protected by a rubber cap over the indicator plunger. I sourced a new canister and indicator switch (cap) from SNG Barratt. The canister is covered in blue painter’s tape just to keep it clean during the restoration build. I was able to reuse the original rubber protective cap. An 18AWG light green wire is connected to one terminal. This wire joins via a 4 way snap connector with an orange 18 AWG wire from the handbrake switch. A single orange 18 AWG wire then connects to the LH Barrier Block Terminal #5B. A dark green wire from LH Barrier Block #5A connects to a 2 way snap connector with a red/green wire on the dash warning light pigtail.

A black 14 AWG wire connects to the other level indicator switch terminal and provides a ground connection to the chassis.

Hydraulic Fluid Container Wiring

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MK2 Cruise Control

Jaguar Electrical Components

Handbrake

Brakes MK2

Gearbox, Clutch and Propshaft

Gauges, Instruments and Switches

Rear Suspension

Battery Relocation to the Boot

Steering Wheel

New Wiring Harness Circuits

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